Do-it-yourself Skoda Octavia repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Skoda Octavia repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Recommendations for choosing a lamp in the low beam, as well as a complete instruction with a photo report on replacing the H7 lamp

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It is described and demonstrated in the photo how to change the engine air filter on the Skoda Octavia A5

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Photo report on self-replacement
air conditioning filter in Octavia. Part numbers for buying new

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Photo report on the replacement of light bulbs in the rear stops. Everything is easier than it seems

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Self-replacement (photo report) front brake pads. Part numbers

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Self-replacement of the rear disc brake pads, photo report on the work done.

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Self-replacement of ATF in an automatic box (09G) Skoda Octavia A5. Description of actions.

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How do I get to the front lights to change the bulbs? Let's see the instructions!

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To change the spark plugs on an Octavia with a bse engine, you need to remove the intake manifold.

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Remove the side deflectors of the stove. Photo report on the work done. When dismantling, you must be very careful!

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The engine of a car, like its heart, beats either fast or slow. This is an eternal motor, which, like in humans, puts all other organs into operation. Without it, there is no car, because a car cannot be without a heart either. But, sooner or later, it wears out and breaks, requiring repairs. The article will talk about the repair of engines of the Skoda Octavia Tour series, about all the mechanisms.

To remove the engine from the Skoda Octavia Tour, you will need a lot of tools and assemblies, namely: a lift, complete sets of heads, screwdrivers, hexagons, a hammer and other tools.

Video (click to play).

Let's proceed directly to the process of removal and installation. We will consider everything in stages, numbering and inserting technological maps:

Remember that safety when removing the engine installation on the Skoda Octavia Tour is a priority, and no part is worth irreparable damage to health and life. Therefore, everything should be done slowly and carefully.

Installation of the Skoda Octavia Tour engine, like any unit in a car, is carried out in the reverse order to disassembly.

when dismantling parts, they must be put in boxes or jars;
fold the parts neatly, and do not throw them;
everything that drains from the car must be placed in containers, since the liquids will come in handy in the future.

Summary table of technical specifications for the 1.6 Skoda Octavia Tour engine.

Skoda Octavia, brand new, 13th year of release, departure

And what a big failure ... and what now to throw out the typewriter?
The rear left wheel turned to the right so easily, as if there was a tie rod there.

On the right, a banana turned out all the gaps

The roof popped out from under the rear window so cool

And the whole back of the roof sticks out like a spoiler

The rear wheel ran all the way to the front door

Well, in front, the Skoda looks like new and fresh in the snow.

Octavia was brought to us on a tow truck in this form

We unloaded the machine under its own power - it started up and somehow, not without distortions, slid down to the ground

An interesting angle - as if the right side of the car is bent.

Let's start tearing up the wrinkle

We saw, and the bottom with huge waves - as if the barge was staggering in a storm

It already looked like the rear wheel

Well, how do you order such folds to straighten?

The amplifier is welded with a pipe inside the threshold of a Czech car

Internal wing reinforcements are also waves

We throw on the slipway all these remnants of the car

We fix for flanging thresholds

Dropping the rear suspension

Here is the pendant. Fresh, low mileage.

This is how the body on the slipway looks like

Cut directly on the amplifier

We remove a piece of the main jam so that nothing interferes with pulling out

The piece is thrown to the scrap metal

We pull the slipway hydraulics

Straightening what was bent by a banana

We unscrew all the amplifiers

Let's move on to the donor.
As a donor, we have a broken body on the right and front
From the donor we cut off the rear left side with the roof

At the donor, we open the threshold - there are the same amplifiers in the form of a pipe

What will be the whole black rear left wing of our crumpled red bad boy!

Preparing for docking the bottom of the original Skoda
Factory weld on the bottom - drill point by point
And we cut the amplifiers across
See what branded rubber clamp tied the body to the slipway

We throw the donor on the slipway to the prepared red frame

Both sides of the docking process are prepared for the process

Choosing the same docking orbitals for the union and Apollo
We set everything at the same height with a pneumatic jack

Removing staple clamps

And with the help of a winch, we push a new ass onto the face of the Skoda
I recall the army saying “I will stretch my eyes on. “

Roof racks are gradually joined

The bottom crawls over its factory welded points

A little more, until the finger crawls between the pillars of the donor and the original roof ...

And now the match won't go through...

Gaps on the starboard side - even now sit down and go

On the left side we expose more gaps

We boil all the amplifiers first

Then we boil the outer metal of the thresholds

And we cook the bottom according to the factory points

Getting to the roof racks

We boil the internal amplifiers first

Then we boil the outer metal, just as it happened with thresholds

We paint over all repair places on the inside of the bottom

From the bottom along the bottom we make anticorrosive Tectyl

Preparing for painting all attachments

The client asked for more soundproofing

We use vibrolists stp bomb
We cover them with all the hinged + bottom

Further, as usual - on the vibrating sheet we glue splenitis

Beauty is better than from the factory!

Here is the result of our cutters:

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Skoda Octavia Combi A4 / Skoda Octavia Combi A4 (model code: 1U5) 1998 - 2010

We have a 1.6 AEH engine. I decided to still replace the timing belt, mileage 130 thousand km, opened the lid, the original is, apparently native. I am sure, 90 percent, that they did not change. I ordered through exist also the original and the SKF roller. I got it the other day and was upset, the DAYCO belt came, though with VW AUDI badges. Without badges costs 3 times cheaper! 🙁

There are many reasons why you need to service any car on your own.

Maybe the posted photos will help someone with this. And so, we have a Skoda Octavia 1.9 TDI with the letter code of the AGR engine. Change oil and all filters. At the same time, we try to fulfill the requirements of service instructions known to us, and especially in terms of cleanliness, since dirt catastrophically reduces the resource of any engine, and especially diesel, and even with a turbine.

Skoda Octavia 1998-2004: Removal and overhaul of the engine. (rus.) Considered engines AEE, AEH, AKL, AVU, BFQ, AEG, APK, AQY, AZH, AZJ, AXP, BCA, AGN, AGU, ARX, ARZ, AUM, AUQ, AGP, AQM, AGR, ALH, AHF, ASV, ASZ.

This engine repair information applies to all VAG vehicles. To quickly find the documentation for your engine, simply press Ctrl-F on your keyboard and type in the letters of your engine. For example: 2E or BSE (English only!)

(Cooling, Heating, Air Conditioning and Climate Control Systems)

It all started with the fact that the interior began to sweat inside and the further the worse. I began to notice that the level of antifreeze was slightly lower, but everything was dry everywhere, even in the cabin. I added a little and moved on. I thought the damper of the stove was broken, which switches the street-salon. I checked - everything is in order, then I took off the glove compartment and only then noticed sputum in the passenger's legs, on the branch pipe where the air was blowing from! I realized that the stove kirdyk.

It all started with the fact that the interior began to sweat inside and the further the worse.I began to notice that the level of antifreeze was dropping a little, but everything was dry everywhere, even in the cabin. I added a little and moved on. I thought the damper of the stove was broken, which switches the street-salon. I checked - everything is in order, then I took off the glove compartment and only then noticed sputum in the passenger's legs, on the branch pipe where the air was blowing from! I realized that the stove kirdyk.

Reason for repair: the gear of the air recirculation control electric drive is turning. A crackling sound is heard when the recirculation button is pressed. During self-diagnosis, the Climatronic generates a 4FA error, when the recirculation mode is turned on and off, a buzzing and clicking sound is heard under the dashboard, in the rain everything fogs up.

Skoda Octavia Climatronic system (rus.) Device and principle of operation. Allowance for the program of self-education. Components and parts, Control unit, Control panel, General description of systems, Air temperature control, Sensors, Drives, New control system, Air supply to the passenger compartment, Refrigerant circuit, Radiator fan circuit, Compressor control system, Self-diagnosis, Functional diagram.

Heater and air conditioner (rus.) Technical manual Skoda. Training of service station specialists. The air conditioning units used on Felicia (unregulated compressor), Fabia (externally regulated compressor), Octavia I (internally regulated compressor), Octavia II (externally regulated compressor), SUPERB (internally regulated compressor) are considered in detail.

Suitable for many VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi vehicles

The Troubleshooting Program is a very useful text-based flowchart for identifying problems with a specific vehicle based on the specific factory equipment installed on it.

Actually this is a text version of what was later transferred to the VAG diagnostic tools called “Guided Fault Finding”. 49 pages. 1 Mb.

This information on injection systems applies to all VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi vehicles.

Suitable for many VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi vehicles

Skoda Octavia 1997 ->: Engine 1,9L / 50kW SDI (AGP, AQM) Repair manual (rus.) Technical data, Removing and installing engine, Crank mechanism, Cylinder head, valve timing mechanism, Lubrication system, Cooling system , Power system, Exhaust system. (8 Mb.)

Suitable for many VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi vehicles

(Front and rear suspension)

Skoda Octavia: 4×4 all-wheel drive. (rus.) Device and principle of operation. Allowance for the program of self-education. Four-wheel drive, Manual transmission, Rear axle final drive, Cardan shaft, Modified four-wheel drive vehicle (Rear axle, Fuel tank, Vehicle underbody, Exhaust system), Haldex clutch (System description, Mechanical components, Multi-plate clutch) Hydraulic system, General description of the system, Sensors, Control unit, Drives, Self-diagnostics, Functional diagram, Driving modes.

Suitable for many VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi vehicles

(ABS, EDS, ESP / Brake system)

Skoda Octavia Tour - Security systems (rus.) Device and principle of operation. Allowance for the program of self-education. ABS, ABS+EBD, EDL, Electronic stabilization system ESBS, EBC. Engine braking control, CAN data bus, ABS self-diagnosis, ABS service, ABS/EDL function diagram, Pedal assembly, Side airbags, Alarm system.

ESP block number 1J0 907 657 A / acceleration sensor 1J0 907 651A was installed on cars: VW Golf 4 / Bora (1J), VW New Beetle (1C, 9C), VW Lupo (6X, 6E), VW Polo 3 (6N), VW Sharan (7M), VW Transporter T5 (7H), Skoda Octavia (1U), Audi A2 (8Z), Audi A3 (8L), Audi TT (8N), SEAT Alhambra (7V), SEAT Ibiza / Cordoba (6K) , SEAT Leon / Toledo (1M). It is likely that this information will be suitable for other cars.

Skoda Octavia: Security systems (rus.) Design and description of work. Allowance for the program of self-education.The active safety system is constantly being improved, in combination with the passive safety system, it helps more than ever to prevent or reduce the consequences of accidents.

Contents: ABS - Anti-Lock Brake System, ABS+EBD - Electronic Brakeforce Distribution, ABS Sensors, ABS Power Drive, Anti-Lock Braking Control, EDL, Electronic Stability Control ESBS, EBC, Engine Brake Control, CAN Data Bus, ABS Self-Diagnostics, ABS Service, ABS/EDL Function Diagram, Pedal Assembly, Side Airbags, Task and Function, Maintenance Work, Self Diagnosis, Flow Diagram, Alarm System.

Over the past thirty years, car manufacturers and brake system suppliers have been developing braking and stabilization systems that help drivers cope with some critical situations. These systems, along with seat belts and airbags, are among the most important elements of an active safety system.

Myths about safety systems Due to the lack of awareness of the principles of operation of auxiliary systems in the amateur community, there are many rumors. Some of the most common myths include the following misstatements:

• the ABS system increases the braking distance;

• With fast, intermittent braking, the ABS system can be replaced;

• the ESC system intervenes in vehicle control prematurely and inaccurately;

• the ESC system is able to eliminate any critical situation for the driver while driving

Suitable for many VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi vehicles

Watch an interesting video on this topic

LIGHT REPRESENTATION Looking at the hood, which is very narrowed to the front, at first you doubt: I suppose it’s not easy to change light bulbs on this car, because wings cover the inside of the headlights. But, opening the hood, you understand: it's business - unscrew the white plastic wing nut, pull out the black pin with a convenient hook, and pull the headlight forward. It remains to unfasten the wiring connector - and the optics are in your hands! Although we sometimes grumble at the designers for such decisions (for the fact that the headlight needs to be removed), you can’t find fault with the Octavia - everything is done quickly and simply, no tools are needed. Another plus: with the headlight removed, you can hide from the weather, for example, in the cabin of the car and there you can safely change the cinder.The turn signal and low beam were dealt with quickly. But with the dimensions they were transported due to the tight fit of the cartridge. I had to build a hook with which they picked up his long “tail” - and only then the cartridge was easily pulled out. We advise you to stock up on such simple equipment. However, over time, the landing weakens, it becomes easier to remove the cartridge.There is also a small complaint about the high beam: the well in which the lamp is planted is too narrow and deep. It is still possible to unfasten the wire retainer, but it is not easy to remove the block - the fingers can hardly crawl into a narrow slot.To access the sections in the bumper where the fog lights are installed together with the so-called running lights, we remove the plastic trim adjacent to the optics by simply pulling it towards us. Through the hole formed, press the tab that fixes the headlight, and remove it from the bumper.You don't even need a tool to change the headlight bulbs. Having unbent the valves in the upholstery of the trunk, we take out, by pressing the latches, the board - and here they are, the bulbs. The gauge is located outside the board - directly on the lamp body, and the grip of its cartridge is weaker than in the headlight. Almost eternal LEDs are installed in the third “stop”, so you will hardly ever have to climb under the upholstery of the trunk lid. The license plate lights let us down - a tool was needed here.The gaps in the valves are supported by hydraulic lifters, and the chain works in the timing drive. These mechanisms do not require maintenance.Changing the air filter is more difficult than usual: fasteners are tight. In addition, eight screws - a bit too much, perhaps.Make it a rule to turn them only with a solid tool, since the soapy tip of the screwdriver will easily lick off the cross in the low head of the self-tapping screw. And then, believe me, you are tormented, wielding pliers. Before lifting the housing cover, do not forget to unplug the connector from the air flow sensor (with the ignition off)!To replace the candles, remove the plastic engine cover - just pull it off the four buffers up. The wiring of the individual coils is hidden in a barely bending cable channel, so we do this: by squeezing the fixing antennae, we slightly shift each connector from its coil (starting from the first cylinder), and when we get to the last one, we finally move the cable channel with all four connectors and remove him to the side. Candles - turnkey "16".If you have to change the oil in the engine, do not install the plastic lining yet: it will interfere. In addition, access to the filter is blocked by the fuel hose, which is released from the clamp and set aside. If the filter does not go by hand, it is more advisable to use a cup puller: it is much more convenient to work with them than with a chain or three-fingered one. To get to the drain plug, remove the plastic shield covering the engine compartment from below. There is no hole for the drain plug in this part, and this is perhaps the most serious complaint about the car! There are a lot of fasteners: eight self-tapping screws for Torx-25 and three more bolts for Torx-30. The latter often turn sour in an aluminum subframe, especially for those owners who prudently cut a hole in the plastic opposite the drain plug and now do not remove the protection when changing the oil. The solution is correct, but you should periodically unscrew those three bolts and lubricate the threads so that they do not completely rust.These efforts will be rewarded when you undertake to change the V-ribbed belt, since it is easier to get to it from below by removing the protection. For convenience, remove the side shield that covers the engine compartment from the side of the wheel - there are seven self-tapping screws under the Torx-25. The drive has an automatic tensioner, so you can’t go wrong with the belt setting.The oil in the DSG box (exactly the same on the test car) is filled for the entire service life - great! Another thing is bad: there is no control plug in the crankcase, so when sooner or later the oil starts to ooze (seals rarely last forever), it will not be clear how much to add it. Dealers do this: they pour everything that merges into a measuring container (fortunately, there is a cork for this!), Bring the volume to 3 liters and pour it back through the breather.The coolant is also not changed according to the regulations. But, you may have to, if instead of the original antifreeze TL VW 774 G (according to the Volkswagen classification), which you will not find in every store, you were forced to add water. That's when you find out that the factory did not provide for drain plugs.The fuel filter is located under the belly of the car, near the rear right wheel. Dirt flying from under it sometimes binds the filter fittings with the tips of the tubes, therefore, before pressing on the fixation clips, stir the tips. Otherwise, they are easy to break, and then you have to change the tube assembly, and it is not cheap. Yes, and the replacement is laborious - the highway is long. When you feel that the move has become more or less free, slide the tip onto the fitting and only then, squeezing the clips, disconnect. Of course, carefully so as not to spill fuel (prepare the drain container and rags ahead of time).There are only two nuances in replacing the brake pads: exactly the pad with the wire must be inserted into the piston of the front left mechanism (it is the only one with a wear limit indicator), and the rear pistons must not be pressed in, but screwed in. Be sure to lubricate the contact surfaces between the brackets and pads and do not forget to bring the pads together - depress the brake pedal and pull the handbrake lever. And certainly before the control trip.We thank the company "Atlant-M Tushino" for their help in preparing the material.The engine of a car, like its heart, beats either fast or slow.This is an eternal motor, which, like in humans, puts all other organs into operation. Without it, there is no car, because a car cannot be without a heart either. But, sooner or later, it wears out and breaks, requiring repairs. The article will talk about the repair of engines of the Skoda Octavia Tour series, about all the mechanisms.To remove the engine from the Skoda Octavia Tour, you will need a lot of tools and assemblies, namely: a lift, complete sets of heads, screwdrivers, hexagons, a hammer and other tools.Let's proceed directly to the process of removal and installation. We will consider everything in stages, numbering and inserting technological maps:Remember that safety when removing the engine installation on the Skoda Octavia Tour is a priority, and no part is worth irreparable damage to health and life. Therefore, everything should be done slowly and carefully.Installation of the Skoda Octavia Tour engine, like any unit in a car, is carried out in the reverse order to disassembly.

when dismantling parts, they must be put in boxes or jars;

fold the parts neatly, and do not throw them;

everything that drains from the car must be placed in containers, since the liquids will come in handy in the future.

Summary table of technical specifications for the 1.6 Skoda Octavia Tour engine. Image - Do-it-yourself Skoda Octavia Repair

For those who are looking for and reading information about the Skoda Octavia A5 in the form of a manual, here you can download the entire manual or view individual parts.
So far, several sections have been made.
All information is taken from the book "Step-by-step repair in photos of Skoda Octavia A5".
Pictures enlarge when clicked.
It is also planned to lay out the manual itself in sections. I used to think why. But when I came across the fact that many people buy cars in a car dealership and managers do not bother to give instructions for the car, I realized that it would not be superfluous. Needless to say, those who buy a car is not new.

Full books download:

Other useful things for Skoda can be downloaded from the sidebar blog right column -->

"Step-by-step repair in photos Skoda Octavia A5"

Possible engine malfunctions, their causes and solutions >>
Replacing the suspension bearings of the power unit
Cylinder compression check

We recently spoke in detail about the history of Octavia. But just in case, let us briefly recall how this car took German roots on Czech soil.

After the Velvet Revolution in Czechoslovakia in 1989, the future Czech Republic and Slovakia suddenly found themselves in a situation where there was no longer a planned economy, and a market economy had not yet been built. What is competition, too, was still poorly known, but it was clear to automakers from Mlada Boleslav that their products would now have to be sold not in the countries of the socialist camp (which also lived out its last days), but in Europe.

At the end of 1989, the so-called tender (velvet) revolution took place in the Czechoslovak Socialist Republic, after which the country saw a rapid dismantling of the socialist regime and the planned economy.

But just in Europe, their products were not needed at all, there the cars were much more interesting than the new Favorit at that time. In order not to get bogged down in expensive and unpromising own developments, it was necessary to find a reliable partner with a good reputation and, of course, the ability to invest their own funds in the enterprise. We settled on the Volkswagen AG concern, with which cooperation began already at the end of 1990.

At the end of 1995, the Germans already owned 70% of Skoda, and in 1996 they showed the world the first Czech-German car, which was Octavia I. The machine was built on a modern PQ34 platform. It would be a big mistake to think that by that time the platform was worn out, like Akaki Bashmachkin's old overcoat. Rather, on the contrary: the first-born PQ34 was just Octavia and at the same time - Audi A3 Mk1. And only a year or two later, Volkswagen Golf 4 Mk4, Bora, Jetta 4, SEAT Leon Mk1 and Toledo Mk2 began to appear.

In those glorious times, Octavia was not puffed up like a frog, trying to outdo the bull (in our case, Volkswagen), was quite affordable and modest in a good way. Hence the widespread use of a 1.4-liter gasoline naturally aspirated engine with a power of 75 hp. Before restyling, a 1.6-liter unit produced such power, but it was an eight-valve, and our engine was a 16-valve. Progress is evident, so to speak. In addition to motors, restyling could boast, for example, the ability to install power windows, which were not in 1996 cars. But otherwise, the Tour is almost no different from the first Octavia, only the optics became plastic (it was glass), and the bumpers have changed.

In the photo: Škoda Octavia Sedan (1U) ‘1996–2000

I will not argue: 11 years is a serious age. And it’s hard to wait for the state of “sit-and-go” from the car. But our Octavia was lucky: the owner looks after her well, spares no money. Even when, a few days after the purchase, he discovered a puddle of antifreeze under the car, he was not upset, but began to gradually bring it back to its original state. Happened? Quite!

The car was bought just on such a run, when complex maintenance of the motor was required, starting with oil and ending with the timing drive.

I already talked about how to change the oil and nothing new to add I can't say. I will only note that the filter is placed in such a way that it is as difficult to remove it as possible. Therefore, it is better to immediately prepare a puller (but not a chain one - you won’t crawl with it), and a new filter can be found with a turnkey head on the body, which will greatly facilitate its subsequent replacement. The oil is usually filled with 5 W 40, and despite the fact that the volume of the crankcase is slightly more than four liters, a four-liter canister is just enough: it is usually impossible to drain all the oil anyway.

Everyone chooses oil for themselves, and a filter (for example, MANN with the same hex head on the body) costs about 300 rubles. At work, you can save 700 rubles.

An easier job would be to replace the air filter. True, you have to work with a screwdriver, because there are no latches here. The filter costs from 250 rubles, and it is not difficult to find it, since it is used in a number of cars (Seat Ibiza II-IV, Leon I, VW Golf IV, Polo III, Lupo I). In the service for its replacement, they can ask from 100 to 500 rubles - it all depends on the service.

It’s better not to mess with replacing belts yourself, at least if you don’t have the proper experience. There is only one service belt, together with a roller it will cost about 1,100 rubles (Contitech). And it will be better to change it immediately with timing belts - it will be cheaper. And there are really two belts in the timing drive, one with 130 teeth, the second with 58. The kit also includes 4 rollers and a cooling system pump, all this costs about 7,000. And replacement will cost approximately the same amount.

They will immediately spit on you, ostracize you, curse you and write you a referral to a psychiatrist. Now claim the opposite: I never fill the filter with oil when changing. They will do the same to you, only.

As I said, immediately after the purchase, I had to replace the radiator. It is quite inexpensive - 1,300 rubles. It will cost no more than one and a half thousand to replace it. Of course, I’m not quoting the prices for spare parts and work from an official dealer or service: everything will be much more expensive there, and I don’t want to overpay for the repair of an already elderly car (and this is logical).

In general, the cooling system of the used Octavia required special attention: the pump was changed along with the timing drive, the radiator, with a run of just over 140 thousand, did not survive and the thermostat. Fortunately, it also costs a penny - 320 - 350 rubles. But for the replacement will have to pay at least 1,000 rubles. In principle, you can change it yourself, especially if you plan to replace antifreeze.

This is the end of the engine. Yes, it does not differ in hurricane power or torque, but with timely maintenance it lasts a long time. Even now, when the mileage has exceeded 200 thousand, there is no hint of an “oil burner”, and there is no need to add oil from replacement to replacement.

There are no complaints about the gearbox - there is a mechanical "five-step" here. What’s more: the clutch has never needed to be changed in 200,000 km. Just in case, I asked: a Luk clutch kit can be bought for 8,900 rubles.

Drives with CV joints do not pester, while relatives are standing. In general, everything is fine with the transmission.Of course, it all depends on the style of driving, and especially gifted individuals will be able to finish everything much earlier, but even they will have to work hard on the Octavia.

Brake pads and discs are safely referred to as consumable parts. And for the price - which cannot but please the owner of an 11-year-old Skoda - too. The front pads cost about 800 rubles (analogue), the rear ones start at 850 rubles, although the original ones will ruin the shkodovod by 3,800 rubles. Disks also start their price from 900 rubles.

Replacement prices are also absolutely standard: front pads - from 600 rubles, discs - from 900, replacement of rear pads is a little more expensive, although the drums themselves are more expensive than front discs - from 1,400 for "kakoy - to baraban" to 6,000 for the original.

From the transmission and brakes, let's move on to a much more interesting part - the chassis.

I will say right away: traditionally there is practically nothing to break in the rear suspension with a beam, only silent blocks and shock absorbers can be changed, but they have never been changed here, there was no need. But the front suspension had to shake thoroughly.

It is unlikely that someone will want to engage in picking in soured and sometimes (to be honest) rusty metal without a lift and pullers. Therefore, immediately ask the service if they are going to change, for example, the rear silent block of the front lever immediately along with the lever. All this can be changed separately, especially since the manufacturers were not yet completely enslaved by the demon of greed and did not press ball jointand fastened with bolts. How much does it cost here?

The same silent block costs 450 rubles, a ball joint - 880 rubles, a bearing with a rack support - 500 rubles. The spring will cost 1,660, but here we’ll make a “bene note”: those springs that are on Octavias with a 1.4-liter engine are too soft, and with them the front of the car is inclined to bow before each hole. Therefore, our car has springs from a car with a 1.8 liter engine. And this is not an isolated case - this practice is used by many Octavia owners. Front shock absorbers cost about 1,600 a piece. For the replacement of the front shock absorbers, you will have to pay 2 - 2.5 thousand, silentboks of levers - 1,200 apiece. Ball replacement - another 600 rubles, springs - 1,800 rubles.

General overview Tuning the interior of a car can be compared with the arrangement of your apartment. Indeed, the interior of the car can be considered as an additional living space that must be properly maintained so that it is not ashamed to show it to friends and acquaintances. If the driver spends a long time behind the wheel of his Skoda Octavia A5, then the interior of the cabin must be carefully considered. In any official representation of Skoda Octavia.

For comfort and coziness From the conveyor of the Scoda company, as well as from any conveyor of any auto company, they go.

Everything you need for Skoda Octavia A7

On this site you can find out everything about the Skoda Octavia, the most popular family car in the world.

Skoda Octavia is one of the best cars in its segment. Created in 1996, Skoda, then A4 (PQ34), and later in 2000 Octavia Tour, already then won great interest from buyers and the status of the best family car. Since 2004 we already know this car as Octavia. Powerful engine, nice design and reasonable price already distinguished this car from other family cars.

This site will provide complete information about this car. We will talk about the design of the Skoda Octavia, present detailed reviews of this beloved car and offer materials for self-repair of the Skoda Octavia.

We will detail the facts from the history of the Skoda brand, its past and the development plan for the Skoda Octavia model. Particularly noteworthy is the new modification of the Skoda Octavia. This model has been produced since 2012 and has already won wide recognition from Skoda car lovers. Skoda Octavia began to look like a good business class car, which could not but affect the purchasing power of this car. On the site you can see the photo gallery of the Skoda Octavia in all angles and details, as well as get acquainted with the popular video reviews of the Skoda Octavia.

Skoda Octavia Tour (Skoda Octavia Tour) has long earned a reputation as a reliable and unpretentious car that endures bad weather and the vicissitudes of our roads.Most owners characterize the Skoda as an undemanding workhorse to maintain. The manufacturer provides owners of the Skoda Octavia Tour with a two-year unlimited mileage warranty, an additional three-year warranty on the paintwork and another twelve years against rust.

Timely maintenance and careful operation will help to avoid major and costly repairs, but do not guarantee unforeseen situations.

The most common problems for the Skoda Octavia are related to the five-speed manual transmission. Difficulties arise when engaging first and reverse gears, but this defect is easily eliminated after changing the oil or adjusting the gear selection. In extreme cases, you have to resort to expensive repairs.

Painting the rear door sills of the Skoda Octavia Tour is another problem with this car. There is a slight play on the rear doors. If the mounts are poorly attached, then during the trip they begin to "walk". The coating on the thresholds peels off and gradually wears off, leaving the metal unprotected. Ignoring this will not work, because over time, rust may appear in these places. Then you have to make repairs. The problem with painting the rear door sills is quite local. In general, the Skoda Octavia Tour is painted with high quality and protected by a special industrial coating. On cars that have been in an accident and whose age is 3-5 years, it will not be possible to detect bubbles or traces of metal corrosion. Even on small scratches or chips, rust will be absent.

The electronics of the Octavia Tour car will not cause trouble: Skoda is made to last. Problems can only arise with repeaters in the mirrors, because they periodically burn out. But this is not a problem, because their repair will cost the owner quite inexpensively.

Chassis Skoda Octavia Tour are made with high quality, work properly and for a long time. After a run of 150,000 km, the levers and shock absorbers begin to break down and require replacement. Approximately the same service life for tie rod ends and stabilizer struts. Thrust bearings are the weak point of the machine. They are the first to fail.

With the onset of cold weather, additional difficulties arise due to low temperatures. Workers often use chemicals and salt on the roads. Often in winter, the seals freeze to the glass, as a result of which the power windows break. Also, the heat exchangers of the air conditioner, the axles of the wiper leashes and the rubber bushings of the lower radiator supports often fail. But this is attributed to seasonal problems, which cannot be said about the roads.