Do-it-yourself Skoda Octavia repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Skoda Octavia repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Recommendations for choosing a lamp in low beam, as well as a complete instruction with a photo report on replacing the H7 lamp

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It is described and demonstrated in the photo how to change the engine air filter on the Skoda Octavia A5

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Photo report on self-replacement
air conditioner filter price Octavia | Part numbers for buying a new one

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Photo report on the replacement of bulbs in the hind feet. Everything is easier than it seems

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Self-replacement (photo report) of the front brake pads. Part numbers

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Self-replacement of rear disc brake pads, photo report on the work done.

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Self-replacement ATF in an automatic transmission (09G) Skoda Octavia A5. Description of actions.

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How do I get to the front gauges to change the bulbs? We look at the instructions!

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To replace the spark plugs on an Octavia with a bse engine, the intake manifold must be removed.

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We remove the side deflectors of the stove. Photo report on the work done. Be very careful when dismantling!

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The car's engine, like its heart, beats fast and slow. This is an eternal motor, which, like a human being, brings all other organs to work. Without it, there is no car, because a car also cannot be without a heart. But, sooner or later, it also wears out and breaks down, requiring repair. The article will tell you about the repair of engines of the Skoda Octavia Tour series, about all the mechanisms.

To remove the engine from the Skoda Octavia Tour, you will need a lot of tools and assemblies, namely: a lift, complete sets of heads, screwdrivers, hexagons, a hammer and other tools.

Video (click to play).

Let's go directly to the removal and installation process. We will consider everything in stages, numbering and inserting technological maps:

Remember that safety when removing and installing an engine on the Skoda Octavia Tour is a priority, and no part is worth irreparable damage to health and life. Therefore, everything should be done slowly and carefully.

Installation of the Skoda Octavia Tour engine, like any unit in the car, is carried out in the reverse order to disassembly.

when dismantling parts, they must be folded into boxes or jars;
fold the parts neatly and do not throw them away;
everything that is drained from the car must be placed in containers, since liquids will come in handy in the future.

Summary table of technical characteristics for the 1.6 Skoda Octavia Tour engine.

Skoda Octavia, new, 13th year of manufacture, departure

And what a big setback ... and now what to throw out the car?
The rear left wheel turned so easily to the right, as if there was a tie rod.

On the right, he turned out all the gaps with a banana

The roof floated out from under the rear window so cool

And the whole back of the roof sticks out like a spoiler

The rear wheel ran right up to the front door

Well, the front Skoda looks like brand new and fresh on the snow.

Octavia was brought to us on a tow truck in this form

They unloaded the machine on their own - it started up and somehow, not without distortions, slid to the ground

An interesting angle - as if the starboard side of the car was bent.

We start to raze the jam

We saw, and the bottom with huge waves - as if the barge was swaying in a storm

The rear wheel has already appeared

Well, how do you order such folds to be straightened?

The amplifier is welded by a pipe inside the threshold of a Czech car

Internal wing amplifiers also in waves

We throw all these remnants of the car onto the slipway

We attach to the flanging of the thresholds

We take off the rear suspension

Here is the suspension. Fresh, small mileage.

This is how the body on the slipway looks like

Sawed straight on the amplifier

Removing a piece of the main jam so that nothing gets in the way

Throw a piece to scrap metal

Pulling with slipway hydraulics

We straighten what was bent by a banana

Unscrew all amplifiers

Next, we proceed to the donor
As a donor, we have a broken body on the right and front
Cut off the back left part with the roof from the donor

At the donor we open the threshold - there are the same amplifiers in the form of a pipe

What a whole black rear left wing our crumpled red shkodnik will have!

Preparing the bottom of the original Skoda for docking
Factory welded seam on the bottom - drilled point by point
And we cut the amplifiers across
See what branded rubber clip tied the body to the slipway

We put the donor on the slipway to the prepared red skeleton

Both sides of the docking process are prepared for the process

Choosing the same docking orbitals for the Union and Apollo
We expose everything with a pneumatic jack at the same height

Removing the slip clamps

And with the help of a winch we push a new ass on the Skoda's face
I remember the army saying “I will pull my eyes on. "

Roof pillars gradually join

The bottom creeps into its factory weld spots

A little more, for now, a finger crawls between the pillars of the donor and original roofs ...

And now the match won't fit ...

Gaps on the starboard side - even now sit down and drive

On the port side, we expose more gaps

We boil all amplifiers first

Then we boil the outer metal of the thresholds

And we cook the bottom at the factory points

Getting started on the roof pillars

We boil the internal amplifiers first

Then we boil the outer metal, just as it happened with the thresholds

We paint over all repair places on the inside of the bottom

From the bottom on the bottom we make Tectyl anticorrosive

We prepare all attachments for painting

The client asked for more soundproofing

We use vibro sheets stp bomb
We cover everything attached to it + the bottom

Further, as usual - we glue the splenitis on the vibro-sheet

Beauty is better than from the factory!

The result of our shkodorezok is:

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Skoda Octavia Combi A4 / Skoda Octavia Combi A4 (model code: 1U5) 1998 - 2010

We have a 1.6 AEH engine. I decided to replace the timing belt, the mileage was 130 thousand km, I opened the lid, the original is worth, apparently dear. I'm sure 90 percent that they did not change. Ordered through exist, too, the original and the SKF video. Received the other day and was upset, the DAYCO belt came, though with VW AUDI badges. Costs 3 times cheaper without badges! 🙁

There are many reasons why you need to service any vehicle yourself.

Maybe the posted photos will help someone with this. And so, we have Skoda Octavia 1.9 TDI letter code of the AGR engine. We change the oil and all the filters. At the same time, we try to fulfill the requirements of the service instructions known to us, and especially for cleanliness, since dirt dramatically reduces the resource of any engine, and especially for a diesel engine, and even with a turbine.

Skoda Octavia 1998-2004: Removal and overhaul of the engine. (rus.) Considered engines AEE, AEH, AKL, AVU, BFQ, AEG, APK, AQY, AZH, AZJ, AXP, BCA, AGN, AGU, ARX, ARZ, AUM, AUQ, AGP, AQM, AGR, ALH, AHF, ASV, ASZ.

This engine repair information applies to all VAG vehicles. In order to quickly find the documentation for your engine, simply press Ctrl-F on the keyboard and type the letters of your engine. For example: 2E or BSE (English only!)

(Cooling, Heating, Air Conditioning and Climate Control Systems)

It all started with the fact that the interior began to sweat inside and the further the worse. I began to notice that the level of antifreeze was slightly lowering, but everything was dry everywhere, even in the cabin. I poured in a little and drove on. I thought the stove damper that switches the street-salon broke. I checked - everything was in order, then I took off the glove compartment and only then noticed phlegm at the passenger's feet, from where the air was blowing! I realized that the stove is kirdyk.

It all started with the fact that the interior began to sweat inside and the further the worse.I began to notice that the level of antifreeze was dropping a little, but everything was dry everywhere, even in the cabin. I poured in a little and drove on. I thought the stove damper that switches the street-salon broke. I checked - everything was in order, then I took off the glove compartment and only then noticed phlegm at the passenger's feet, from where the air was blowing! I realized that the stove is kirdyk.

Reason for repair: the gear wheel of the air recirculation control electric drive is turning. A crackling sound is heard when the recirculation button is pressed. During self-diagnostics, the climatronic gives a 4FA error, when the recirculation mode is turned on and off, a buzzing and clicking sound is heard under the torpedo, in the rain everything fogs up.

Skoda Octavia Climatronic system (rus.) Design and principle of operation. Self-study program. Components and parts, Control unit, Control panel, General description of systems, Air temperature control, Sensors, Actuators, New control system, Air supply to the passenger compartment, Refrigerant circulation circuit, Radiator fan electrical circuit, Compressor control system, Self-diagnosis, Functional diagram.

Heater and air conditioner (rus.) Skoda technical manual. Training of service station specialists. The air conditioning systems used on cars Felicia (unregulated compressor), Fabia (compressor with external regulation), Octavia I (compressor with internal regulation), Octavia II (compressor with external regulation), SUPERB (compressor with internal regulation) are considered in detail.

Suitable for many cars VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi

The troubleshooting program is a very useful text-based flowchart for identifying problems in a particular vehicle, taking into account the specifics of the factory installed equipment.

Actually, this is a textual version of what was later transferred to VAG diagnostic devices under the name “Guided Fault Finding”. 49 pages. 1 Mb.

This information on injection systems applies to all VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi vehicles.

Suitable for many cars VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi

Skoda Octavia 1997 ->: Engine 1,9L / 50kW SDI (AGP, AQM) Workshop Manual (rus.) Technical data, Engine removal and installation, Crankshaft drive, Crankshaft drive, Cylinder head, valve train , Power system, Exhaust system. (8 Mb.)

Suitable for many cars VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi

(Front and rear suspension)

Skoda Octavia: 4x4 all-wheel drive. (rus.) Device and principle of operation. Self-study program. Four-wheel drive, Manual transmission, Rear axle final drive, Propeller shaft, Four-wheel drive vehicle redesign (Rear axle, Fuel tank, Vehicle underbody, Exhaust system), Haldex clutch (System description, Mechanical components, Multi-plate clutch) Hydraulic system, General description of the system, Sensors, Control unit, Drives, Self-diagnostics, Functional diagram, Modes of movement.

Suitable for many cars VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi

(ABS, EDS, ESP / Brake system)

Skoda Octavia Tour - Security systems (rus.) Design and principle of operation. Self-study program. ABS, ABS + EBD, EDL, Electronic Stability System ESBS, EBС. Engine brake management, CAN data bus, ABS self-diagnosis, ABS service, ABS / EDL function diagram, Pedal assembly, Side airbags, Alarm system.

ESP unit number 1J0 907 657 A / acceleration sensor 1J0 907 651A was installed on cars: VW Golf 4 / Bora (1J), VW New Beetle (1C, 9C), VW Lupo (6X, 6E), VW Polo 3 (6N), VW Sharan (7M), VW Transporter T5 (7H), Skoda Octavia (1U), Audi A2 (8Z), Audi A3 (8L), Audi TT (8N), SEAT Alhambra (7V), SEAT Ibiza / Cordoba (6K) , SEAT Leon / Toledo (1M). This information is likely to apply to other vehicles as well.

Skoda Octavia: Security systems (rus.) Design and work description. Self-study program.The active safety system is constantly being improved, in combination with the passive safety system, more than ever, helps to prevent or reduce the consequences of accidents.

Contents: ABS - Anti-lock braking system, ABS + EBD - Electronic brake force distribution, ABS sensors, ABS powertrain, Anti-lock braking system, EDL, Electronic stabilization system ESBS, EBС, Engine braking control, CAN information bus, ABS self-diagnosis, ABS service, ABS / EDL functional diagram, Pedal assembly, Side airbags, Function and function, Maintenance work, Self-diagnosis, Block diagram, Alarm system.

Over the past thirty years, vehicle manufacturers and braking system suppliers have been developing braking and stabilization systems to help drivers cope with certain critical situations. These systems, together with seat belts and airbags, are essential elements of active safety.

Myths about security systems Due to the lack of awareness of the principles of operation of auxiliary systems, there are many rumors among amateurs.The most common myths are the following incorrect statements:

• ABS system increases the braking distance;

• using fast, intermittent braking, the ABS system can be replaced;

• the ESC system intervenes in driving a car prematurely and inaccurately;

• the ESC system is able to eliminate any critical situation for the driver while driving

Suitable for many cars VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi

Watch an interesting video on this topic

LIGHT REPRESENTATION Looking at the hood, which is very narrowed towards the front end, at first you doubt: I suppose it is not easy to change the bulbs on this car, because the fenders cover the inside of the headlights. But, opening the hood, you understand: it's business - unscrew the white plastic lamb nut, pull out the black pin with a convenient hook and pull the headlight forward. It remains to unfasten the wiring connector - and the optics are in your hands! Although we sometimes grumble at the designers for such decisions (for the fact that the headlight needs to be removed), you can't find fault with the Octavia - everything is done quickly and simply, no tool is needed. Another plus: with the headlamp removed, you can hide from the weather, for example, in the passenger compartment of the car and there you can calmly change the stub.With the turn signal and low beam coped quickly. But with the dimensions they were transported because of the tight fit of the cartridge. I had to construct a hook with which they hooked up his long "tail" - and only then the cartridge was easily pulled out. We advise you to stock up on such simple equipment. However, over time, the fit weakens, it becomes easier to remove the cartridge.There is also a small claim to the high beam: the well in which the lamp is planted is too narrow and deep. It is still possible to unfasten the wire retainer somehow, but it is not easy to remove the block - fingers can hardly crawl into a narrow gap.To access the sections in the bumper, where the foglights are installed together with the so-called running lights, we remove the plastic cover adjacent to the optics, simply pulling it towards ourselves. Through the resulting hole, we press on the tab that fixes the headlight, and remove it from the bumper.To replace lamps in lanterns, a tool is also not needed. Having folded back the valves in the luggage compartment upholstery, we take out, pressing on the latches, the board - and here they are, the bulbs. The gauge is located outside the board - directly on the body of the lamp, and the grip of its cartridge is weaker than in the headlamp. The third "stop" has almost eternal LEDs, so you hardly ever have to crawl under the boot lid trim. The license plate lights pumped up - a tool was needed here.The valve clearances are supported by hydraulic lifters, and a chain works in the timing drive. These mechanisms are maintenance-free.Changing the air filter is more difficult than usual: the fasteners are tight. In addition, eight self-tapping screws - a bit too much, perhaps.Make it a rule to turn them only with a solid tool, since the smudged tip of a screwdriver will easily lick the cross in the low head of the self-tapping screw. And then, believe me, you will suffer, wielding the pliers. Before lifting the housing cover, do not forget to unfasten the connector from the air flow sensor (with the ignition off)!To replace the spark plugs, remove the plastic engine cover - just pull it off the four buffers up. The wiring of individual coils is hidden in a barely bending cable channel, so we do this: squeezing the fixing antenna, slightly shift each connector from its coil (starting from the first cylinder), and when we get to the last one, we finally move the cable channel with all four connectors and remove him to the side. Candles - turnkey "16".If you have to change the oil in the engine, do not put the plastic cover yet: it will interfere. In addition, access to the filter is blocked by the fuel hose, which we release from the clamp and move to the side. If the filter does not go by hand, it is more advisable to use a cup remover: it is much more convenient to work with them than with a chain or three-fingered one. To get to the drain plug, remove the plastic shield that covers the bottom of the engine compartment. There is no hole for the drain plug in this part, and this is perhaps the most serious complaint about the car! There are a lot of fasteners: eight self-tapping screws for "Torks-25" and three more bolts for "Torks-30". The latter often turn sour in an aluminum subframe, especially for those owners who prudently cut a hole in the plastic opposite the drain plug and now do not remove the protection when changing the oil. The decision is correct, but you should periodically unscrew those three bolts and lubricate the threads so that they do not finally rust.These efforts will be rewarded when you start changing the V-ribbed belt, as it is easier to reach it from below by removing the protection. For convenience, remove the side shield covering the engine compartment from the side of the wheel - there are seven self-tapping screws for "Torks-25". There is an automatic tensioner in the drive, so you can't go wrong with adjusting the belt.The oil in the DSG box (exactly like that on the test car) is filled for life - great! The other thing is bad: there is no control plug in the crankcase, therefore, when sooner or later the oil begins to ooze (seals rarely last forever), it will not be clear how much to top up. Dealers do this: they pour everything that will merge into a measuring container (fortunately, even though there is a plug for this!), Bring the volume up to 3 liters and pour it back through the breather.According to the regulations, the coolant is also not changed. But you may have to, if instead of the original TL VW 774 G antifreeze (according to Volkswagen's classification), which you cannot find in every store, you were forced to add water. Then you will find that the plant did not provide for drain plugs.The fuel filter is located under the belly of the car, near the rear right wheel. Dirt flying from under it sometimes binds the filter fittings with the tube tips, therefore, before pressing on the fixation clips, stir the tips. Otherwise, they are easy to break, and then you have to change the tube assembly, which is not cheap. And the replacement is laborious - the highway is long. When you feel that the stroke has become more or less free, push the tip onto the fitting and only then, squeezing the clips, disconnect. Of course, carefully so as not to splash with fuel (prepare a container for draining and rags ahead of time).There are only two nuances in replacing the brake pads: the one with the wire must be inserted into the piston of the front left mechanism (it is the only one with a wear limit indicator), and the rear pistons must not be pressed in, but screwed in. Be sure to lubricate the contacting surfaces between the brackets and pads and do not forget to bring the pads together - press the brake pedal and pull the parking brake lever. And certainly before the test trip.We are grateful to the Atlant-M Tushino company for their help in preparing the material.The car's engine, like its heart, beats fast and slow.This is an eternal motor, which, like a human being, brings all other organs to work. Without it, there is no car, because a car also cannot be without a heart. But, sooner or later, it also wears out and breaks down, requiring repair. The article will tell you about the repair of engines of the Skoda Octavia Tour series, about all the mechanisms.To remove the engine from the Skoda Octavia Tour, you will need a lot of tools and assemblies, namely: a lift, complete sets of heads, screwdrivers, hexagons, a hammer and other tools.Let's go directly to the removal and installation process. We will consider everything in stages, numbering and inserting technological maps:Remember that safety when removing and installing an engine on the Skoda Octavia Tour is a priority, and no part is worth irreparable damage to health and life. Therefore, everything should be done slowly and carefully.Installation of the Skoda Octavia Tour engine, like any unit in the car, is carried out in the reverse order to disassembly.

when dismantling parts, they must be folded into boxes or jars;

fold the parts neatly and do not throw them away;

everything that is drained from the car must be placed in containers, since liquids will come in handy in the future.

Summary table of technical characteristics for the 1.6 Skoda Octavia Tour engine. Image - Do-it-yourself Skoda Octavia repair

For those who are looking for and reading information about the Skoda Octavia A5 in the form of a manual, here you can download the entire manual or watch individual parts.
Several sections have been done so far.
All information is taken from the book "Step-by-step repair in photos of the Skoda Octavia A5".
Pictures are enlarged when clicked.
It is also planned to publish the manual itself in sections. I used to think why. But when faced with the fact that many people buy cars in a car dealership and managers do not bother to give them instructions for the car, I realized that it would not be superfluous. Needless to say, about those who buy a car is not new.

Full books download:

Other useful things about Skoda can be downloaded from the sidebar - right column of blog ->

"Step-by-step repair in photos of the Skoda Octavia A5"

Possible engine malfunctions, their causes and remedies >>
Replacing the suspension mounts of the power unit
Compression test in cylinders

We recently talked in detail about about the history of the emergence of Octavia... But in any case, let us briefly recall how this car took down German roots on Czech soil.

After the velvet revolution in Czechoslovakia in 1989, the future Czech Republic and Slovakia suddenly found themselves in a situation where the planned economy no longer exists, and the market economy has not yet been built. What competition was, was also poorly known, but automakers from Mladá Boleslav it was clear that their products would now have to be sold not in the countries of the socialist camp (which was also living out its last days), but in Europe.

At the end of 1989, the so-called tender (velvet) revolution took place in the Czechoslovak Socialist Republic, after which the country was rapidly dismantled from the socialist regime and the planned economy with.

But Europe did not need their products at all, the cars there were much more interesting than the new Favorit at that time. In order not to get bogged down in expensive and unpromising in-house developments, it was necessary to find a reliable partner with a good reputation and, of course, opportunities to invest their own funds in the enterprise. We stopped at the Volkswagen AG concern, the joint work with which began already at the end of 1990.

At the end of 1995, the Germans already owned 70% of the Skoda, and in 1996 they showed the world the first Czech-German car, which became the Octavia I. The car was built on the modern PQ34 platform. It would be a big mistake to think that the platform by that time was worn out, like the old overcoat of Akaki Bashmachkin. Rather, on the contrary: Octavia became the first-born PQ34 and at the same time - Audi A3 Mk1. And only a year or two later, Volkswagen Golf 4 Mk4, Bora, Jetta 4, SEAT Leon Mk1 and Toledo Mk2 began to appear.

In those glorious times, Octavia was not puffed up, like a frog, striving to outperform a bull (in our case, Volkswagen), was quite affordable and in a good way modest. Hence the widespread use of a 1.4-liter naturally aspirated gasoline engine with a capacity of 75 hp. Before restyling, such a power was given by a 1.6-liter unit, but that one was eight-valve, and our engine was 16-valve. Progress is evident, so to speak. In addition to motors, restyling was able to boast, for example, the ability to install power windows, which were not in 1996 cars. But the rest of the Tour is almost no different from the first Octavia, only the optics became plastic (it was glass), and the bumpers have changed.

In the photo: Škoda Octavia Sedan (1U) ‘1996-2000

I will not argue: 11 years is a serious age. And it’s hard to wait for the “sat down and went” state from the car. But our Octavia was lucky: the owner looks after her well, spares no money. Even when, a few days after the purchase, he found a puddle of antifreeze under the car, he was not upset, but began to gradually bring it to its original state. Happened? Quite!

The car was bought just at such a run, when complex engine maintenance was required, starting with oil and ending with a timing drive.

I already talked about how to change the oil, and add nothing new I can't do what I said... I will only note that the filter is positioned so that it is as difficult to remove it as possible. Therefore, it is better to immediately prepare a puller (just not a chain one - you cannot crawl with it), and a new filter can be found with a turnkey head on the body, which will greatly facilitate its subsequent replacement. The oil is usually poured in 5 W 40, and despite the fact that the crankcase volume is slightly more than four liters, a four-liter canister is just enough: it is usually impossible to drain all the oil anyway.

Everyone chooses oil for himself, and a filter (for example, MANN with the same hex head on the body) costs about 300 rubles. At work, you can save 700 rubles.

An easier job would be to replace the air filter. True, you have to work with a screwdriver, because there are no latches here. The filter costs from 250 rubles, and it is not difficult to find it, since it is used in a number of cars (Seat Ibiza II-IV, Leon I, VW Golf IV, Polo III, Lupo I). In the service, for its replacement, they may ask from 100 to 500 rubles - it all depends on the service.

It is better not to get involved with changing belts yourself, at least if you do not have the proper experience. There is only one service belt, together with the roller it will cost about 1,100 rubles (Contitech). And it will be better to change it right away with timing belts - it will be cheaper this way. And there are really two belts in the timing drive, one with 130 teeth, the second - for 58. The kit also includes 4 rollers and a pump for the cooling system, all this costs about 7,000. And the replacement will cost about the same amount.

You will immediately spit, ostracize, curse and write a referral to a psychiatrist. Now, say the opposite: I never pour oil into the filter when changing. They will do the same to you, only.

As I said, the radiator had to be replaced right after the purchase. It costs quite inexpensively - 1,300 rubles. Its replacement will cost no more than one and a half thousand. Of course, I do not quote the prices for spare parts and work from an official dealer or service: everything will be much more expensive there, and I don’t want to overpay for repairing an older car (and this is logical).

In general, the cooling system of the used Octavia demanded special attention: the pump was changed along with the timing drive, the radiator with a run of just over 140 thousand, and the thermostat did not survive. Fortunately, it also costs a penny - 320 - 350 rubles. But for the replacement, you will have to pay at least 1,000 rubles. In principle, you can change it yourself, especially if you plan to replace antifreeze.

This concludes with the engine. Yes, it does not differ in hurricane power or torque, but with timely maintenance it will last a long time. Even now, when the mileage has exceeded 200 thousand, there is no hint of the "maslozhor", and there is no need to add oil from replacement to replacement.

There are no complaints about the gearbox - there is a mechanical "five-step". Moreover: it has never been necessary to change the clutch in 200,000 km. Just in case, I asked: the Luk clutch kit can be bought for 8,900 rubles.

Drives with constant velocity joints do not pester, while relatives are standing. In general, everything is fine with the transmission. Of course, it all depends on the driving style, and especially gifted individuals will be able to finish everything much earlier, but even they will have to work hard on Octavia.

Brake pads and discs can be safely attributed to consumable parts. And for the price - which cannot but please the owner of the 11-year-old Skoda - too. The front pads cost about 800 rubles (analog), the rear ones start at 850 rubles, although the original ones will ruin the Shkodovoda already by 3,800 rubles. Discs also start at 900 rubles.

Prices for replacement are also absolutely standard: front pads - from 600 rubles, discs - from 900, replacing rear pads is a little more expensive, although the drums themselves are more expensive than front discs - from 1,400 for "kakoy - to baraban" to 6,000 for the original.

From the transmission and brakes, let's move on to a much more interesting part - the chassis.

I will say right away: traditionally, there is practically nothing to break in the rear suspension with a beam, you can only change the silent blocks and shock absorbers, but they have never been changed here, there was no need. But the front suspension had to be shaken up thoroughly.

It is unlikely that someone wants to be engaged in picking in sour and sometimes (to be honest) rusty metal without a lift and pullers. Therefore, immediately ask the service if you are going to change, for example, the rear silent block of the front lever immediately together with the lever. All this can be changed separately, especially since the manufacturers were not yet finally enslaved by the demon of greed and did not press ball joint, and fastened it with bolts. How much does it cost?

The same silent block costs 450 rubles, a ball joint - 880 rubles, a bearing with a strut support - 500 rubles. The spring will cost 1,660, but here we will make a "note of benet": those springs that are on Octavias with a 1.4-liter engine are too soft, and with them in front of the car they are inclined to bow before each hole. Therefore, our car has springs from a car with a 1.8 liter engine. And this is not an isolated case - this practice is used by many owners of Octavia. Front shocks cost around 1,600 apiece. For the replacement of the front shock absorbers, you will have to pay 2-2,5 thousand, the silent sides of the levers - 1,200 apiece. Replacing the ball - another 600 rubles, the springs - 1,800 rubles.

General overview Tuning a car interior can be compared to the arrangement of your apartment. Indeed, the interior of a car can be considered as additional living space, which must be properly maintained so that it would not be ashamed to show it to friends and acquaintances. If the driver spends a long time behind the wheel of his Skoda Octavia A5, then the interior of the cabin must be carefully thought out. At any official Skoda Octavia dealership.

For comfort and coziness Scoda's conveyor, as well as any conveyor of any car company, is rolled off.

Everything you need for Skoda Octavia A7 When purchasing a car, it should be understood that the Skoda configuration you have chosen.

On this site you can find out everything about the Skoda Octavia - the most popular family car in the world.

Skoda Octavia is one of the best cars in its segment. Created in 1996 by Skoda then still A4 (PQ34), and later in 2000, the Octavia Tour, already then won great interest from buyers and the status of the best family car. Since 2004, we already know this car as the Octavia. A powerful engine, nice design and reasonable price, already then distinguished this car among other family cars.

This site will provide complete information about this vehicle. We will tell you about the design of the Skoda Octavia, present detailed reviews of this beloved car and offer self-repair materials for the Skoda Octavia.

We will detail the facts from the history of the Skoda brand, its past and the development plan of the Skoda Octavia model. The new modification of the Skoda Octavia especially attracts attention. This model has been produced since 2012 and has already won wide recognition among Skoda car lovers. Skoda Octavia began to look like a good business class car, which could not but affect the purchasing power of this car.On the site you can see the Skoda Octavia photo gallery in all angles and details, as well as familiarize yourself with the popular Skoda Octavia video reviews.

Skoda Octavia Tour (Skoda Octavia Tour) has long earned a reputation as a reliable and unpretentious car that endures bad weather and the vicissitudes of our roads. Most owners characterize Skoda as an undemanding workhorse in maintenance. The manufacturer provides the owners of the Skoda Octavia Tour with a two-year warranty without mileage limitation, an additional three-year warranty for paintwork and another twelve-year against perforating corrosion.

Timely maintenance and careful operation will help to avoid major and costly repairs, but do not guarantee unforeseen situations.

The most common problems for the Skoda Octavia car are associated with a five-speed manual transmission. Difficulties arise when engaging the first and reverse gears, but this defect is easily eliminated after changing the oil or adjusting the gear selection. In extreme cases, you have to resort to expensive repairs.

Painting the rear door sills of the Skoda Octavia Tour is another problem of this car. There is a slight backlash on the rear doors. If the bindings are poorly attached, then during the trip they begin to "walk". The coating on the thresholds peels off and gradually wears off, leaving the metal unprotected. You will not be able to ignore this, because over time, rust may appear on these places. Then you will have to make repairs. The problem with painting the rear door sills is quite local. In general, the Skoda Octavia Tour is painted with high quality and protected with a special production coating. Cars that have been in an accident and whose age is 3-5 years old will not be able to detect bubbles or traces of metal corrosion. Even small scratches or chips will be free of rust.

The electronics of the car Octavia Tour will not cause trouble: Skoda is made to last. Problems can arise only with repeaters of turns in the mirrors, since they periodically burn out. But this is not a problem, because their repair will cost the owner quite inexpensively.

The Skoda Octavia Tour chassis are made with high quality, they work regularly and for a long time. After a run of 150,000 km, the levers and shock absorbers begin to break down and require replacement. Approximately the same service life for tie rod ends and stabilizer struts. Support bearings are the weak point of the machine. They are the first to fail.

With the onset of cold weather, additional difficulties arise due to low temperatures. Workers often use chemicals and salt on the roads. Often in winter, the seals freeze to the glass, as a result of which the power windows break. Also, the heat exchangers of the air conditioner, the wiper leash axles and the rubber bushings of the lower radiator supports often fail. But this is attributed to seasonal problems, which cannot be said about the roads.