DIY repair of pivots zil 130

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of pivots zil 130 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Front axle specifications

Beam - Stamped I-section

Steering knuckles - Forged, fork type

Front wheel alignment angles:

Longitudinal angle of inclination of the king pin without load - 1-15

Camber angle-1

The transverse inclination of the king pin - 8

The maximum angle of rotation of the wheels - 45

Toe-in - 2-5

Before starting work, the car should be cleaned of dirt and washed.

To dismantle the front axle from the car, you need to raise the car and install supports under the front axle beam, unscrew the wheel nuts and remove them.

Loosen the clamps of the flexible hoses for the air supply to the brake chambers and disconnect these hoses.

Unscrew the nut securing the lower end of the shock absorber and remove the bushing and washer, disconnect the lower end of the shock absorber. Disconnect the track rod end from the bipod.

Unscrew the nuts securing the front spring step ladders, remove the shock absorber and step ladder brackets.

Raise the vehicle, remove the six lower leaf springs and the lining from the front axle beam, remove the front axle from the stands.

front axle hub ZIL

To install the front axle, all operations must be done in reverse order.

Dismantling the front axle from the vehicle can be done by detaching the spring mounts from the frame.

Dismantling the front axle. The method of mooring the bridge is shown in Fig. 6-19. Install and securely fix the front axle assembly with a lateral steering rod and brake chambers on the disassembly and assembly stand (Fig. 6-20).

Remove the tie rod, for which it is necessary to uncouple and unscrew the castellated nuts of the ball pins of the tie rod, press the pins out of the swivel levers and remove the tie rod (Fig. 6-21).

Video (click to play).

Stand for dismantling the ZIL bridge

Flatten the brake pads by turning the clutch (along the worm axis) of the adjusting brake lever counterclockwise.

Unpin and remove the pin connecting the brake chamber rod plug with the adjusting brake lever.

Loosen the splined end of the expander shaft; remove the washer, adjusting brake lever and adjusting washer from the shaft. For the convenience of removing the lever, it is necessary to remove it from the fork of the brake chamber rod by turning the axis of the lever.

Unscrew the bolts securing the hub cover, remove the cover and cover gasket; remove grease from the bearing locknut and wipe off the locknut.

Bend the lock washer 7 and unscrew the lock nut 5 of the hub bearings, remove the lock washer 7 and the lock ring 8.

Unscrew the nut for the hub bearings.

Remove with a puller mod. And 804. 27. 000 hub assembly with brake drum from the steering knuckle (Fig. 6-22) and remove the cuff from the hub 3. When removing the hub, the outer bearing is also removed.

Wipe the surface of the journal and the inner bearing with a rag soaked in diesel fuel or kerosene.

Remove the outer take-off springs, press the pads with a spudger and remove the rollers. Remove the pin from each brake shoe axle, remove the pad axle pad, and then dismantle the brake pads with release springs from the axles.

Wipe the brake shoe axles with a rag soaked in diesel fuel and check the condition of the axles. There should be no significant development on the surface of the axes (in the form

ring grooves) and wear. If there is a working out and the size — the diameter of the axle is less than 27.74 mm, it is necessary to replace the axles by unscrewing the nuts securing the axles and press out the axles.

Remove expander shaft seals from bracket O-ring grooves. The support ring of the cuff should be sprayed only if there are dents or cavities on the surface of the ring.

Unscrew the nuts and bolts securing the brake shield and remove the shield assembly with the pads axles.

Unscrew the bolts securing the upper and lower covers 27 (see Fig. 6-8) of the king pin and remove the roofs and cover gaskets. Unscrew the nut securing the wedge 28 of the pivot and knock the wedge out of the hole in the front axle beam.

Evaporate with the tool mod. R-176 or KS-2 or 2504 (Fig. 6-24) pivot of the steering knuckle 23 (Fig. 6-25) and remove the knuckle 26, adjusting washer 29 and support bearing 20.

After removing the steering knuckle, remove the cuff with a cage from the upper lug, and the support bearing 2 from the lower lug! (see Figure 6-18) and support washer.

removing the inner bearing

Unpin and unscrew the crown nut securing the upper lever 19 and press the lever out of the hole in the steering knuckle eyelet. This work is done for the left steering knuckle only. Undo the cotter pins and unscrew the fastenings of the lower lever 17 and press the lever out of the hole in the steering knuckle eyelet.

Carry out similar work for the right steering knuckle.

This work is performed only when it is necessary to replace the levers in case of a loose fit of the lever and wear of the hole in the head of the lever for the ball pin. The technical requirements for the replacement of steering knuckles are shown below in table. 6-10. To facilitate unscrewing the castellated nut of the lever fastening and pressing it out, it is recommended to fill the lever attachment point with brake fluid and hold it for 3 ... 5 minutes.

Wash parts of hubs, brakes, bearings, pivots in a solution MS-b, MS-8 TU 6-15-978-76, blow them off with compressed air.

If it is necessary to replace the pivot bushings, they must be pressed out on a press

If necessary, press the outer bearing races out of the hub.

Press the pivot bushings into the pivot pin lugs. After pressing in the sleeve, pull it to size 45 + 0.60 mm. When pressing in the bushings, the hole in the bushing must line up with the hole (oil channel) in the steering knuckle eyelet.

Press in using mandrels mod. And 806.05.005 ‚I 806.05.004 and I 806.05.006 the outer rings of the hub bearings and the collar in the hub.

If necessary, press out the bushings from the expander bracket after removing the O-rings.

Press the bushings into the expander bracket and unfold the bushings to the size of the expander shaft. Install the O-rings in the bracket. The O-rings can be installed after the bracket is secured to the brake shield.

Carry out similar work for the right hub and steering knuckle.

Install the collar 6 with the collar 7 in the groove of the upper lug of the pivot pin (Fig. 6-26, b). The collar should be installed so that its edge is directed towards the end of the beam boss.

Steering knuckle installation

Install support washer 5 with pin 4 and support bearing 3 with seals 1 and 2 into the seat of the lower lug of the steering knuckle (Fig. 6-26). The pin of the support washer must fit into the hole in the lug slot.

Between the upper end surface of the beam boss and the lugs, it is necessary to select and insert the adjusting washers 8 and 9 so that a washer 0.25 mm thick does not enter the adjusted gap (see Fig. 6-26).

Press in the king pin, having previously lubricated it and the bushings with engine oil. The pivot must be pressed in so that the risk on it coincides with the hole in the boss of the beam under the wedge 28 (see Fig. 6-18).

Insert the king pin wedge 28 and tighten the wedge retaining nut with spring washer. The wedge nut must be tightened with a force of 36 ... 44 N.m (3.6 ... 4.4 kgf.m).

Install and secure the upper and lower pivot caps with gaskets and tighten the cap bolts with spring washers. Gaskets that are not suitable for further operation should be replaced.

Lubricate the pivot pin bushings of the left steering knuckle with Litol-24 GOST 21150-87 grease through grease nipples until grease appears from the clearances of the mating parts.

Install the brake shield on the steering knuckle flange and tighten the nuts of the bolts securing the shield to the flange.

Install the expander bracket on the shield and tighten the nuts of the bracket securing bolts with spring washers. The bracket mounting bolts must be secured with wire.

If the axles of the brake pads were removed, it is necessary to insert them into the holes in the shield and tighten the nuts of the axles of the pads. Lubricate the axles with Litol-24 GOST 21150-87 grease. Do not tighten the pad axle nuts.

Place the inner pull springs on the pad pins and install the pads on the axle. Put on an overlay on the axle of the pads and lock each axle with a Cotter. The axle pins must securely hold the pad on the pad axles.

Carefully, without damaging the O-rings, install the expander in the bracket. Press out the brake pads with a spudger and insert the rollers.

Install the outer spring guards on the brake pins. Insert the upper pivot arm with a key into the hole of the upper pivot lug, screw in and pin the lever securing nut. Tighten the fastening nut with a force of 400… 500 Nm (40… 50 kg cm). Re-use of the cotter pin is not allowed.

Carry out similar work for the right side of the steering knuckle.

Install and secure the tie rod, the nuts of the ball pins of the tie rod must be pinned. Re-use of Split Pins is not allowed.

Check and, if necessary, adjust the angles of rotation of the trunnions (Fig. 6-27). The adjustment must be carried out with the stop bolts. The maximum angle of rotation should be:

when turning to the left: 45 + 30 ′ - for the left trunnion; 43 + 30 ′ - for the right trunnion;

When turning to the right: 45 + 30 ′ - for the left trunnion; 43 + 30 '- for the right trunnion. Press the support ring 13 (see Fig. 6-17) of the hub seals, the thrust washer and the inner bearing onto the trunnion

After pressing, lubricate the bearing with Litol-24 grease.

Install hub 2 complete with brake drum and hub outer bearing 9.

Before installation, the bearing must be lubricated with Litol-24 grease. When installing the hub, be careful not to damage the collar 3.

Screw on the bearing fastening nut, then turning the wheel in both directions, tighten the nut, tightening torque 60 ... 80 Nm (6 ... 8 kgf-m). Then unscrew the nut by 1/4… | / 3 turns (90… 1200) until the nut pin coincides with the nearest hole in the lock ring. Install the lock washer, tighten the lock nut, torques 250 ... 300 N — m (25. .30 kgf-m), and bend the lock washer to one of the No. When checking, the wheel should rotate evenly and freely in both directions. The gap should not exceed 0.15 mm.

Put Litop-24 grease into the hub cover 2, install it with a gasket on the hub and tighten the cover bolts with spring washers. Replace the cover gasket unsuitable for further operation with a new one.

Install the brake chamber on the bracket and tighten the chamber mounting nuts with spring washers. Install the adjusting washer, brake lever, flat washer on the spline end of the expander shaft and pin the end of the shaft with a cotter pin. Re-use of cotter pins is not allowed.

Carry out similar work for the right steering knuckle and hub. Adjust the front wheel brakes in the following order:

loosen the nuts securing the axles of the pads and bring the eccentrics together by turning the axes with marks towards each other (marks are placed on the outer ends of the axles protruding above the nuts);

- loosen the bolts of the brake chambers;

- Pull the adjusting brake lever so that the pads are pressed against the brake drum;

- center the pads relative to the drum, turning the eccentrics in the direction of the pads movement towards the brake drum. This ensures the adherence of the shoes to the drum, which can be checked with a feeler gauge through the windows in the brake drum. The 0.1 mm thick stylus should not run along the entire width of the pad;

- without releasing the adjusting lever and keeping the pads axles from turning, securely tighten the axle nuts and the brake chamber bracket bolts;

- release the adjusting lever and connect the plug of the brake chamber rod with the adjusting lever with a finger, the pin must be pinned, having previously installed a washer on it;

- turn the worm axis of the adjusting lever so that the stroke of the brake chamber is 15 ... 25 mm. Ensure that the strokes of the rods of both brake chambers are the same.

The drums should rotate freely and evenly without touching the pads.

WATCH THE VIDEO

Posts: 347
Location: Rostov region, mines
ZIL 5301 Goby

help with advice on how to knock the kingpin out of the beam. I tried everything, and warmed and knocked, and pressed with a press, but it doesn't work. Goby 2005 New model beam.

the wedge did not forget to unscrew and knock out.

Posts: 347
Location: Rostov region, mines
ZIL 5301 Goby

I unscrewed everything, and the wedge and both covers. Filled everything with brakes, it can turn off overnight.

Messages: 4119
Location: Rostov region
ZIL 5301 Goby
ZiS 101

oleg 1969, 30 November 2012, 18:01, # 1

help with advice on how to knock the kingpin out of the beam. I tried everything, and warmed and knocked, and pressed with a press, but it doesn't work. Goby 2005 New model beam.

I removed the beam or try to knock it out on the spot

oleg 1969, 30 November 2012, 18:48, # 3

I unscrewed everything, and the wedge and both covers. Filled everything with brakes, it can turn off overnight.

better with vinegar, it easily penetrates and decomposes (acid, nevertheless) and in this case it is better to roll out the beam with springs.

warmed, by the way, in vain if a little - does not help, to red - you spoil ..

apparently repaired already and done badly.

Messages: 4119
Location: Rostov region
ZIL 5301 Goby
ZiS 101

Read also: DIY glow plug repair

I honestly don't know what to do. You can try to replace the beam, but is there a problem with it.and maybe the crabs can be replaced with more powerful ones, or it's still a disaster in the guru.

look at the frame, most likely it is spreading along the traverses, or cracked where

Posts: 328
Location: Krasnodar
ZIL 5301 Goby
ZIL 5301 Goby Ref

nick82, 10 February 2013, 20:45, # 22

I honestly don't know what to do. You can try to replace the beam, but is there a problem with it. and maybe the crabs can be replaced with more powerful ones, or it's still a disaster in the guru.

The convergence may not be clearly set. And if the beam is damaged, then convergence is just an option to fix it. I don't catch up with what kind of crabs?

And my car always rushes in different directions, I'm already used to it

Still a little thought, and the beam there under the pivot with a sledgehammer was not upset?

ADJUSTMENT OF THE PIVOT BEARINGS OF THE ZIL-131 VEHICLE

When adjusting the preload of the bearings of the front wheels of the car, it is also necessary to check and, if necessary, adjust the preload of bearings 5 and 14 (see Fig. 45) of pins 4 and 17 of the pivot pins.

The need for bearing adjustment can be checked without removing the front drive axle from the vehicle. For this

you need to raise the front axle and install it on the trestles, unscrew the plug in the lower cover 16 of the pivot housing and install the indicator on the cover, directing its leg to the end of the kingpin. Using a jack or a lever, the body of the pivot pin should be displaced upward, while, if there is an axial clearance, the movement of the indicator arrow will show the presence of axial movement in the bearings.

Before adjusting work, additional operations should be performed other than those that were carried out when adjusting the wheel bearings. First you need to disconnect from the

the longitudinal and transverse tie rods, then disconnect the tire air supply hose and remove the wheel. Unscrew completely the nut 32 of the bearing, remove the wheel hub 35 complete with the brake drum and remove the brake pads 22. Disconnect and remove the adjusting lever 6. Disconnect the angle union from the support disc and unscrew its base from the head 37 of the air supply. Remove support disc 20 and expander 40. Remove pivot 36 and take out axle shaft II complete with axle shaft 29 and air supply head 37, and also remove all oil seals that may interfere. At the same time, you should check the condition of the oil seals 9, 10 and 23, as well as blow through the channel 31 of the tire air supply with compressed air.

To eliminate the axial clearance of the bearings of the pivot pins, it is necessary to tighten the nuts 1 and 15 of the upper cover 3 with the lever 8 and the lower cover 16

kov. Then with a dynamometer, the hook of which is inserted into the hole of the steering linkage arm (Fig. 46), determine the torque required to turn the trunnion from one extreme position to another. If the torque is in the range of 0.5-0.6 kgm, which corresponds to a force of 2.0-2.4 kg, then the bearing adjustment is not required, and the bearings must be lubricated with grease.If the required torque is outside the specified limits, it is necessary to change the thickness of the set of shims 7 and 13 (see Fig. 45) up or down. With a weak tightening of the bearings, the set of upper and lower shims 7 and 13 are reduced by the same amount, and with a strong tightening, they are increased.

The set of shims under the covers to ensure the alignment of the pivot pin and the ball joint 12 must be the same or, in extreme cases, differ by no more than one shim 0.05 mm thick. Axial bearing play is not permitted.

When eliminating the axial play resulting from bearing wear, it is recommended to remove the required number of shims 13 from under the bottom cover, since the bottom bearing usually wears out more. If, when disassembling the assembly, it turned out that the wear of the bearings is approximately the same, you need to remove the same number of gaskets from under the top and bottom covers. In case of severe wear of the lower pivot bearing, it is recommended to swap the bearings; in this case, the gaskets must be removed from under the top cover.

When installing new bearings, you must first measure their mounting height (from the support end of the outer ring to the support end of the inner ring). The total thickness of the set of shims installed on the side of the higher bearing height must be greater by the difference in the mounting heights of the bearings. Failure to comply with the above rules for installing shims leads to a loss of alignment of the pivot pin housing and the ball joint.

When adjusting the preload for new bearings, a minimum of ten 0.1 mm shims must be included in each of the shim sets. In this case, two gaskets with a thickness of 0.05 mm and one gasket with a thickness of 0.1 mm must be installed in the set of gaskets from the side of the axle shaft case 29, and the remaining thin gaskets from the side of the covers. This makes it possible to obtain a tight (leaky) connection.

In the process of adjusting the preload of the bearings, it is necessary to turn the housing of the pivot pin in one direction and the other, so that the rollers of the bearings of the pivots take up

the correct position between the inner and outer rings.

After completing the adjustment of the pivot bearings, it is necessary to assemble the assembly in the reverse order to disassembly and fix the assembly parts with bolts and nuts. In this case, spring washers should be placed under the nuts, and split cones 2 should be put on the studs.

Rice. 46. Method for checking the preload of the bearings of the pivot of the front axle of the car ZIL-131

1. Press the bushings using a special mandrel (see Fig. 1) into the holes of the steering knuckle flush with the surface so that the open ends of the grooves on the bushings face the inside of the knuckle (pressing force must be at least 10 kN). The pressed-in bushings should not protrude over the ends of the installation of the sealing rings in order to avoid their undercutting.

The grease holes in the bushings should line up with the grease fittings in the knuckles. Iron the bushings to a size of at least 29.55 mm, ensuring their alignment.

2. Install the front axle beam on the stand shown in Fig.2.

3. Insert O-rings into the sockets of the steering knuckle, a thrust ball bearing into the lower seat, having previously lubricated it with Litol-24 grease, and into the upper seat - adjusting shims 8 (Fig. 3).

4. Install the steering knuckle 1 and connect it to the axle beam by inserting a special mandrel from below into the knuckle and beam holes (Fig. 4).

5. Check the gap "C" between the upper support of the steering knuckle and the upper plane of the support of the beam (see Fig. 3). The gap should be no more than 0.2 mm.

If necessary, adjust the gap with shims 8. The total number of shims should not be more than two.

6. Press in the king pin from above, having previously lubricated it and the bushings with engine oil. Press in the king pin so that the flat on it coincides with the hole in the beam boss for the wedge.

7.Fasten the pivot with a wedge 9, screw a nut and washer onto it. The tightening torque of the nut should be 28 - 36 Nm. Install the pivot caps with O-rings and fix them with thrust rings 18.

8. Screw the grease fittings into the holes of the steering knuckles and lubricate the pivot bushings and the bearing with Litol-24 grease until the grease comes out of the clearances of the mating parts.

The rotation of the fists relative to the beam by hand should be smooth and without jamming at an angle of no more than 45 °.

9. Fasten the lower arms on the right and left steering knuckles, and the upper arm on the left knuckle. The tightening torque of the arm bolts is 160 - 200 Nm.

10. Assemble the tie rod and install it on the lower swing arms, fix the ball pins with nuts and cotter them. The tightening torque of the arm bolts is 160 - 200 Nm.

11. Assemble the longitudinal steering link and install it in place, secure the pin with a nut and pin it with a cotter pin.

If there is a special device, adjust the angle (4 ′. 10 ′) of the steering knuckle mounting (wheel alignment) relative to the 0 - 0 axis (Fig. 5) by changing the “E” dimension, which is achieved by rotating the tie rod.

12. Install the dust shield 11 (see Fig. 6) and fix it with bolts 8 with spring washers.

Liberally lubricate the inner bearing with grease, insert it into the hub, install washer 12 and press in the seal using a special mandrel.

In the event that there is wear on the outer rings of the steering knuckle bearings, they must be replaced. The rings fit into the hub with an interference fit; for the inner bearing - 0.010 ... 0.059 mm, for the outer - 0009 ... 0.059 mm.

13. Install the hub assembly with the brake disc onto the steering knuckle c. using a special mandrel (fig. 7), while the mandrel must abut against the inner ring of the bearing. Liberally lubricate the outer bearing with grease and install it on the trunnion using a special mandrel, while the mandrel must rest against the inner ring of the bearing.

14. Install the thrust washer 16, screw on the adjusting nut 15 (see Fig. 6) and tighten it to a torque of 60. 80 Nm, turning the wheel hub in both directions so that the bearing rollers are correctly installed. Axial clearance is not allowed, the hub must not rotate after tightening.

15. Then unscrew the adjusting nut by approximately 45 ° and tighten the clamping bolt 13 of the clamping connection of the adjusting nut 15 to a torque 16. 18 Nm. With this adjustment, the axial clearance in the hub bearings will be about 0.2 mm. In operation, in the case of checking the value of the axial clearance with an indicator head, the clearance should be within 0.125. 0.25 mm.

16. Install the cover 2 with the gasket and tighten the three screws 3 securing the cover.

17. Install the caliper on the brake disc together with the hose bracket, install the lock plate and tighten the two caliper mounting bolts.

18. Bend the brake caliper retaining plate.

When installing the front axle on a car, lift the front part of the car frame with a lift and roll up the front axle.

29. Lower the frame slightly onto the suspension.

20. Attach the front axle to the vehicle frame.

21. Lower the front of the vehicle and remove

lifting devices. Then carry out the operations of mounting the front axle on the car, the reverse of disassembly.

In the event that when assembling the front axle, the toe and angles of the wheels were not checked, they should be checked and, if necessary, adjusted.

Let's use the example of Fuso Fighter to figure out what to do when you need to replace the king pin?

What were the complaints before the renovation?

A clear knock of the hodovka in front. Clearance, backlash between the stub axle and the front beam.

Yes, in this case, indeed, it is necessary to repair, adjustment will not be enough.

What do we usually do to replace the king pin?

First, remove the wheel, then the brake drum. By the way, in order to remove it accurately and quickly, you definitely need a special hub wrench. Unfortunately, not all sizes are available in stores, so we have to make a lot of keys ourselves.

Okay, we have dealt with the drum, let's move on to the brakes .. We remove the brake pads, the brake cylinder does not need to be disconnected, so as not to bleed the brakes later. As far as the hose is enough, we carefully remove it to the side so that it does not interfere.

Then remove the covers from the pins. It's simple. Well, the most difficult and interesting thing remains - to knock out the kingpin and bushings ...

This is usually the biggest problem because as a rule, the king pin breaks the trunnion bushings and sticks tightly to the beam! First, we try to knock out the kingpin with a sledgehammer, and gently heat the beam with gas. If it doesn't work well, then you need to remove the front beam and use a press to drive the kingpin out.

This time we did it with a sledgehammer. This is good. We pass to the pivot pin, press out the bushings. Here you definitely need a guide (drift) of a suitable size. By the way, it is needed 2 times: to pull out the old bushings and install new ones. We also make various drifts ourselves. They are not sold in stores.

Okay, we changed the bushings in the trunnion, now we lubricate them a little and begin to drive the kingpin.

As we have finished, then we check very carefully: there should not be any backlash or gaps between the trunnion and the beam! Everything should be very tight! Otherwise, the king pin and bushings do not last long! And you will need to change them again.

Now we squirt until the grease appears. If the grease bowl is clogged, then it must be changed, otherwise how to inject it?

Then we put the brake cylinder, assemble the brake pads in place. Putting on the brake drum .. And then be very careful - it's time to tighten the wheel bearing. Why is it so important?

If you drag it over, it will get very hot and quickly break! Will need to change it again!

Well, if you do not reach the wheel bearing, then the wheel will beat left and right, back and forth .. It's hard to steer, and the bearing will quickly break again ...

Well, well, we've tightened the wheel bearing. Checked out. We did everything right. They put on the wheel and handed the truck over to the owner.

By the way, we put the original Japanese ones on this Fuso kingpin. Since they run twice as long as Korean or Taiwanese, and they differ in price by only 500 rubles

My master punches the bushings with balls, he has 3 of them. + - the size, it can work with a roller cutter, but I have never seen it (changed it 2 times). And why is the alignment if the body of the kingpin is in the beam, the camber is not done, only the toe-in. Maybe I'm wrong, correct.

Right. Alignment has nothing to do with it. If only the kingpin did not dangle.

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kamchatka35 27 Dec 2008

So I think maybe I can adapt the turner to order something to catch the alignment, or is it not very important?

Alignment is important or they will not walk for a long time, in order to maintain it, read above, Alex has correctly written how to do this. Can be done without a ball.

ALEX89, I wrote in detail, great, I just forgot to clarify - a long sweep is needed. I personally could not find one, there are only short ones.

Everything is done with a normal scan, I don’t know the length, about 25 centimeters by eye. And I have not seen others on sale.

Diesel, another blowtorch or gas, otherwise you will knock out the hell

If you squirt sometimes it will knock out normally.

ALEX89, I wrote in detail, great, I just forgot to clarify - a long sweep is needed. I personally could not find one, there are only short ones.

Literally today I saw it in auto parts on the Moscow Ring Road in the Details of GAZ Cars near Vagonoremontnaya Street. It costs a little more than 1,000 re. There was also a short one, it cost about 400 re.
Maloli who is useful in Moscow.

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kamchatka35 08 Jan 2009

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kamchatka35 15 Jan 2009

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volgavod 30 Jan 2009

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Vanya Stradivari Jan 30, 2009

Guys tell me where who is in Moscow time. bought reinforced pivot caps? https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3317/forum/public/s. I was in Russia and Kempe yesterday, but not there. https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3317/forum/public/s.

South port. A set of covers with gaskets about 300 rubles (if memory serves)

You just have to rearrange the oilers from the old covers.

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BOBAH Jan 30, 2009

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BOBAH Jan 31, 2009

I understand they are squeezed out chtol, why reinforced? I took an old military belt and made two spacers out of it, and like a grandmother siphoned off.

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Tatar 10 Feb 2009

Thank you all for your help.
I managed to release the pivots acetone + tad 17. I put reinforced covers. What kind of grease should I lubricate?
There is a small problem - there is no rubber band on the left side between the beam and the hub, on the right there is. Is it fatal?

need advice:
acetone + tad 17 how long to keep, and where should it flow from?
Is it possible to pierce the pivot groove with a solvent (in the sense of oil + solvent, is it scary or not?)
I apologize for the questions, but in this matter I am a “nerd”, if possible I ask you to answer in detail going into details, if not difficult.

While you are hanging out here, you would have punched a groove long ago, even with kerosene or acetone, there is no difference, if only you were flushing yours. You can try TAD 17. Any liquid. Warm up with a hair dryer beforehand. This will facilitate the process of rinsing and punching. And warm up the fuel oil too. Real advice, no irony or jokes. Good luck brother.

Video (click to play).

Lyokha47, wrote here, you can pour a bucket of hot water on your fist. and it is better to hang out the muzzle.

Rate the article:

Grade 3.2 who voted: 85

DIY repair of pivots zil 130

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