Do-it-yourself slag-filling house repair

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Cinder block houses built in the 50s and 70s are beginning to slowly crack. And not just cracks, but good cracks. The reasons for the cracks may be different, but the main thing is that before our fathers and mothers had nowhere to live, but they wanted to live like all normal people in their own house, so they built houses from what was and said at the same time: “to our the century will be enough ”. During construction, they saved on literally everything: on the foundation, cement, on the quality of building materials, on the professional skills of specialists. And such a concept as a monolith and reinforcement it was generally from the realm of fantasy.

What to do with such cinder block houses?
Building a new home will cost you a pretty penny. And in a crumbling house, where plaster is falling, walls crack and bend, the foundation is destroyed, living is shameful, unpleasant, and most importantly not safe.

There can be only three solutions here:

• sell the old house and start building a new one with the proceeds,
• break everything down and rebuild everything
• make a major overhaul of an old cinder block house, using new modern construction technologies.

Since the first two options are much more expensive than the last, we will focus on it - repairing an old cinder block house with your own hands.

You need to start repairs by assessing the condition of the house, examining it by specialists and deciding on the possibility of repairing, its effectiveness and durability.

On many sites, you can find information on how to repair cracks at home by applying staples followed by plastering. Yes, for a while you can throw dust in your eyes and "Gloss over" trshchin! But, firstly, simply covering up the cracks and applying staples will not strengthen the house, after a while the crack will appear again, and secondly: you will simply throw away money with practically no effect. But what if the crack appears again from year to year, and the wall begins to tilt? Deviations from the vertical state are clearly visible along the plumb line. In this case, an urgent need to make a decision and we make - the cinder block house needs a major overhaul.

In addition to repairing the foundation, for old houses built from loose cinder blocks, it is recommended to repair walls by arranging several monolithic reinforced belts around the perimeter of the house followed by plastering on a metal mesh. Reinforcement can be stressful and casual. Stress reinforcement is used in cases where it is necessary not only to strengthen, but also to screed the house. For stressed reinforcement, the diameter of the reinforcement or the section of the strip is chosen larger than for conventional reinforcement. However, after a while, simple wall reinforcement will in itself turn into a state of stress due to further shrinkage of the house. In combination with the repair of the foundation, these measures can significantly prolong the life of an old stone or cinder block house, and correct and reliable reinforcement of the walls of the house will simply give it a second life.

Due to the aging of old buildings, this problem arises everywhere today.

The photo shows a variant of the upper wall reinforcement made of cinder blocks including brick corner posts of the house.

Reinforcement belts are installed at least along the top of the house (above the window openings) in several rows (at least 2 rows) around the perimeter. The fittings are used necessarily corrugated and at least 6 meters long (the diameter of the reinforcement in our case is 12 mm.) with bandaging or welding together to achieve a single monolithic structure.

An additional reinforcing belt is installed at the level of the bottom of the window openings in one or two rows along the entire perimeter of the house.

• fittings for 12-14,
• reinforcing mesh (to achieve the greatest reinforcing effect - it is rolled out and fixed to the wall horizontally),
• sand-cement mixture.

In order to achieve a more rigid and unified structure, in a brick pillar, for laying reinforcement, a recess was scraped (with a grinder). Which, subsequently, is moistened or treated with a primer and sealed with a solution.

Reinforcement and reinforcing mesh after partial plastering.

Plaster the old house along the lighthouses. This will save you a lot of time and give your renovated home a good look.

I will separately dwell on the mistake made during the repair of the walls of this house.

Namely: in contrast to the reinforcement, the reinforcing mesh was applied only in the sections of cinder block walls, brick corner posts were plastered without mesh. As a result, after winter, the plaster on one of the pillars began to recede. A possible reason for this situation was the insufficient preparation of the surface of the brick pillar for plastering.

But still, the best option and more reliable in all respects is the use of a reinforcing mesh (better than metal). The mesh is fastened on the section of the cinder block wall - with simple nails with plastic washers, and on the sections of brickwork - with dowels.

After plastering on the lighthouses, the walls of the house are putty with facade putty and painted with facade paint.

The photo shows the same fragment of the wall after two years of operation.

Yes, it is possible! But subject to a number of conditions and requirements.

The main ones are:

1. Repair of the foundation must be carried out with a double-sided reinforced concrete clip, while the clips must be connected with anchors;
2. To reliably support the second floor in the slag walls, there must be either brick support pillars (as in our case) or metal support pipes (usually square 100 x 100) installed during the repair of the walls. Better both;
3. Mandatory construction on top of the cinder block wall of the armpole along the entire perimeter of the house, including all load-bearing walls. The thickness of the reinforcement belt is not less than 10 - 15 cm. The support for the reinforcement belt is brick pillars and metal support pipes built into the cinder block walls;
4. The construction of the second floor is carried out from lightweight materials (gas silicate, lightweight corpulent expanded clay concrete block "Thermolux") with the use of masonry mesh reinforcement;
5. on top of the second floor, a second arm-belt with a thickness of 5-8 cm is being built.
6. the overlap of the second floor is also constructed lightweight.

Hello to all blog readers. Today I remember one song by Boris Grebenshchikov, in which there are such words: "... the shining palaces of cinder-concrete are rising." And this is not because I remembered that the mood is musical and lyrical (although where can we go without it?). The fact is that these very "palaces" sometimes also need serious repair work. And here it is important to understand that the repair of slag walls differs in its technology from the repair of walls made of plasterboard, or those created from other materials. So I wanted to share my knowledge and experience on how to repair an old cinder block house.

If, after this question, medical associations begin to flicker in my head, then this is not a problem: this term is also used in the medical field. But now we are talking about construction. And from the point of view of construction, slag is a solid residue that appears after the end of the process of smelting metal from ore. Well, or after the coal has been burned. There are other options, but in this case we will not dwell on them. If we talk about what building materials are made from slag, then these are usually tiles and bricks.

Also, you are probably familiar (well, or I'll introduce you now) with such a building stone as a cinder block. This is such a small, let's say, slab that is prepared using slag concrete mortar. The binding element in cinder blocks is cement.

So, a small educational program is passed. Now that you have a general idea of ​​the subject, you can move on to the more practical part. The point is this: sometimes already in the process of building a house, developers turn a blind eye to the quality of the slag that is chosen for the walls. Like, there is cement, it will bind everything. This is where the mistake lies. Slag is not just a filler. It affects both the properties of lime and the properties of cement. Hence, as one well-known Duchess said, the moral: this is a high-flying bird (in the sense, the slag must be of high quality).

Now here's what. Cinder block walls and other slag walls can behave differently over the years, that is, damage from time to time can be of varying degrees of complexity and severity. Therefore, before repairing slag walls, you need to carefully assess how worn out the material is. Then it will be easy to pick up the repair options.

Let's start with something simpler and less capital. Let's say you have a house, slag walls, and over time, plaster begins to peel off, which will require repair. We have already discussed how to do it once in the article - repair of wall plaster in separate places, I advise you to familiarize yourself. This can happen both outside and inside. What should I do? For external repairs, work may be recommended not for restoration, but for strengthening. It seems that all this is understandable, but how to strengthen the house from the slag? The principle of siding is quite suitable for such a case.

But indoors it would be nice to use the plasterboard sheathing method. This will hide the defects, and the slag wall will become smoother. At your discretion and taste, you can use other types of plates for interior decoration. Here you can choose by what method to carry out repairs inside the cinder block house.

So, now about the cracks. The matter in this situation will be somewhat more complicated and tedious than the usual finishing work on the slag from the inside. If you still do not want to change housing, build a new one and do similar pirouettes, then we take up the instrument (not by the head) and proceed to decisive action.

You can start repairing walls with repairing the foundation. Longer, but also more serious. You can arrange reinforced belts (they must be reinforced) around the entire perimeter of the house and then plaster them on a metal mesh. And if this procedure is also carried out in combination with strengthening the foundation, then the result will be doubly reliable: "cinder-concrete palaces" will serve for many, many years.

I almost flew out of my head: there are also structures made of bulk slag! They differ from those already listed in that they do not have the usual seams. What to do if they are repaired? For example, when plaster falls and cracks appear, you can punch the plaster with nails, then pump a cement solution into the cracks under pressure. Next, create a kind of timber formwork, and then cement it.

Renovation of walls in the apartment "overtakes" almost everyone. And how else: cracks in the walls, falling off plaster and other "little things" not only testify to the dilapidation of the living quarters, but also simply depress their appearance. Therefore, combat readiness number one is the first thing you need to fearlessly start this exciting process. And the result will surely please you yourself. Imagine, the walls will become even, you will pick up the finishing - as you moved into a new house! In addition, they did the repair of the slag house with their own hands. Double respect (respect, of course). Now you can rest and enjoy. Remember, the hobbits used to say: "We sit on the field of victory and taste its well-deserved fruits!" Although you may not remember the quotes. It is important that you really succeed in your planned serious business. Good luck!

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What to do if the walls of the slag filling house are crumbling? How to independently repair slag-cast walls in order to achieve the desired result?

In the post-war years and up to the 70s of the last century, there was a shortage of high-quality building materials in the country. Therefore, houses in villages and in the private sector were often built from slag, which was a waste product. It was mixed with cement mortar and poured into the pre-installed formwork, thus erecting the walls. Since all this was done unprofessionally, and they saved cement, greatly diluting the solution with sand, nowadays it is becoming more and more important to repair slag-cast walls. They crack and literally crumble.

Of course, ideally, such a house should be demolished, and a new one should be built instead. However, not everyone can afford such costs. In addition, while the construction is underway, you need to live somewhere. Therefore, we will consider the repair options.

• We reinforce and plaster the house from the outside. We make at least three straps around the house with fittings: one above the line of windows, two below. We attach a metal mesh to it (we tie it with wire or weld it on). If the condition of the wall permits, the mesh can be fixed with dowels. Then we plaster with good glue for outdoor use. When the surface is dry, remove the roughness, make it smooth. Apply two or more coats of waterproof paint. In principle, you can use a polymer mesh, but experience shows that the metal is more reliable.
• We sheathe the walls with siding or wood. We fix vertical slats on the walls using quick assembly or dowels with self-tapping screws. Then we shoot them with paper clips using a siding panel pistol or screw the boards with countersunk screws. For cladding, wood-based panels or asbestos sheets can also be used. Wood-based sheathing must be stained and then painted. However, we want to draw your attention: unlike the previous method, the walls cannot be reinforced with cladding. It will only protect them from the harmful effects of the environment and will serve as an excellent way to decorate an outwardly unattractive building.

Alas, it does not always make sense to spend time, effort and money on the repair of walls of this type. If the time and forces of nature made them completely unsuitable for carrying out any restoration work, we recommend that you proceed as follows:

• strengthen the foundation or make a new one. As in the case of the walls, they probably saved on materials for the foundation. This means that even if the house has not yet shrunk, and the walls have not cracked, one day it will still happen. And this is a matter for the foreseeable future;
• as far as financial possibilities and availability of free time are available, build brick walls (or walls made of other building material) on top of the new foundation, continuing to live in your old house, which you, in fact, will “surround” with a new one;
• upon completion of the main construction work, dismantle the old house. This will not be difficult to do, given the degree of wear on the walls;
• do not forget about arranging the blind area, which will reliably protect the foundation from the destructive effects of moisture.

And most importantly - be sure that you will succeed if you want to make your home better and more comfortable!

The problem is as follows: there is a slag-cast house, the condition of the walls is satisfactory, but the foundation. You can pick it out with your hand. Gradually falling apart. Outside there are places where it has already been dumped to a depth of 5-7 centimeters. I looked from the cellar at the foundation from the inside of the house, the picture is as follows: the foundation is scattered, the beam lying on it has rotted.
I can roughly imagine how the foundation is restored in wooden houses: either they raise it up, or the lower crown is removed, the formwork is installed and the foundation is poured. But I don’t know what to do in my case. Raise - you can't lift, dig up on each side to the depth of the previous foundation and fill in - the question is whether the new foundation will fall off from the old, because the state of the latter is depressing.

For a preliminary assessment and possible solutions to the problem, a lot of additional information is needed.
To begin with, you will have to dig several pits outside to the bottom of the foundation in order to assess its general condition (if necessary, inside).
And so, if it's short, then you need information about the depth of the foundation, thickness, material and reinforcement, how far the base protrudes above the ground, where and from what waterproofing, what kind of blind area. What is the soil under the foundation and around, the depth of the groundwater. House dimensions and number of storeys.

The house is one-story, it is already 50 years old, I will not say for sure right now, and plus or minus 5-10 years, the role does not play.
I don’t know the depth of the foundation, you can see it closer to summer. The foundation protrudes from the ground by about 15 cm. On the foundation there is a layer of roofing material. At the expense of reinforcement - a piece broke off in one corner, nothing. In general, the foundation is g .. but. Around the house there is earth, in some places covered with siftings. In spring, groundwater reaches almost ground level. A full cellar of water, and on the street, it is worth making a hole - water.

It was suggested as an option to hammer hooks into the foundation from both sides, stretch the mesh on them, and concrete the whole thing. But I'm afraid that later the fresh concrete, along with the hooks, will fall off. I also thought to punch through the foundation with a puncher in several places, and insert reinforcement there. At the ends of the armature, already hook the mesh and concreting. But then how to waterproof the walls from the foundation?

I have something similar with a garden house - a foundation without reinforcement, from which cracks in the brickwork also burst. I plan to hammer pins into the old foundation and pour in a new reinforced one in parallel to it. You have to hammer on the waterproofing.
If the author of the theme has order with the walls, then why bother with the foundation? He stood for fifty years, so it will last another 30 years, let the descendants have a headache there.

Well, it seems that it's not old yet, I hope in 30 years you will have your own head on your shoulders

In general, it's hard to walk by and look at the crumbling foundation, you have to do it.
Moreover, the beams have rotted, new ones will have to be laid, which means that the foundation should be restored at least in these places.
And the mesh is attached to the anchor bolts, do I understand correctly?

igor3522 wrote:
Moreover, the beams have rotted, new ones will have to be laid, which means that the foundation should be restored at least in these places.

IMHO. Do the beams mean the joists for the floor? It is necessary to divert water from the foundation, make wide blind areas - then it will definitely stand for a long time

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Our company offers to repair slag-filling houses at an affordable cost. We reinforce the old structure, guarantee its reliability and increase the service life. To do this, our craftsmen equip a new foundation, perform brick cladding, change the roof and carry out internal work. Turnkey repair! Warranty - from 5 years!

All technologies for the repair of a slag-filling house provide for the mandatory reinforcement of the structure. This primarily applies to the foundation, walls and roof. The most durable and suitable material for strengthening the walls of an old house is brick. Such cladding is used both for the construction of walls and for finishing objects built from other materials.

General technology for repairing a slag-filling house:

• We dismantle the old roof covering (most often it is slate) and the rafter system. At the same time, we remove the remnants of the slag filling from the attic.
• Next to the old, usually loose foundation, fill in a new strip foundation.
• We carry out the arrangement of the blind area, waterproofing and insulation of the basement.
• In the corners of the house, we remove the slag filling and lay strong columns.
• We build a brick wall on the new foundation. We use clinker facing material. To increase the strength, we associate the new wall with the old one. We insulate the gap between them.
• We carry out the arrangement of a new rafter system, installation and insulation of the roof (metal tiles), sheathing of gables.

Why do we recommend using a brick finish when repairing a slag-filling house:

1. High strength and reliability - it cannot be compared with the strength of slag-filling walls, which are more than 40-50 years old. Also, brick is 3 times stronger than foam concrete blocks.
2. High durability - brick objects serve for over 100 years. This is the best way to extend the life of an old cinder house. It is even better to choose clinker material for cladding.
3. Complete fire safety - the fire resistance of the brick has never been in doubt. Your home will be safe, but for this you still need to properly equip the electrical wiring.
4. Environmental friendliness - we carry out safe brick cladding, in which there is no chemistry. The materials used by our craftsmen are natural products.
5. The ability to implement unique architectural solutions. We offer finishing of facades of old slag houses according to individual projects.

Why is it not so often used to repair the facade of a slag house with a brick:

• The high price of brick construction. Especially when compared with ordinary plaster, which is most often used for such purposes.
• The high weight of brick cladding requires the arrangement of a massive foundation. It makes no sense to reinforce the existing foundation for the slag house. As a rule, this design is not durable and reliable.
• Work on the repair and decoration of the facade of a slag house using bricks cannot be carried out all year round.

To implement this project, the craftsmen used modern technologies for the quick repair of slag-cast (slag-filling) old houses:

• Dismantled the roof.
• The foundation was poured.
• The old slag walls were faced with clinker bricks and insulated.
• A new truss system was installed, the roofing was laid, the roof was insulated.
• The inner walls were sheathed with plasterboard sheets.
• The interiors are designed in a laconic modern style, adding delicate Japanese motives.
• A dark parquet board was laid on the bedroom floor of this house. One of the walls of the dwelling was painted coral.

Our craftsmen securely attach the new brick wall to the slag base. For this we create special connections. We select their length taking into account the thickness of the slag bearing walls, the new cladding, the ventilated gap and the thickness of the mineral insulation.

We lay out the new brick wall from the bottom up, regularly checking its evenness using a level. To prevent efflorescence on the new facade, our specialists use a masonry mortar prepared from special mixtures.We use clinker bricks for your projects, which are characterized by the highest strength, durability and frost resistance.

We guarantee that no cracks or efflorescence will appear on the walls of a slag house after reinforcement and cladding. Quality from specialists! Warranty - from 5 years.

The video covers the main points of the repair of slag houses.

Our company offers to renovate a slag-cast house at a bargain price. By contacting us, you can be sure of the high quality of work aimed at increasing the durability, thermal insulation and presentability of your home. Call, check prices for the repair of a slag house and order a turnkey project!

Quote:
From user: Good_Gad

boiler slag on a lime binder.

any binder can be

-1
I would make control pits in the body, check it as with moisture, but this is the business of specialists, PS I'm not special.
this is the first
second: what is the foundation?
third: floor one? look at the attic.

PS: where do you buy, if not a secret, what area?

It is located in the village of Malysheva, the city of Asbest, 90 km from Ekat. House of 70 sq.m., without interior decoration, with communications, costs 550 thousand.

Chota I watch continuous eulogies in favor of this very house!

Apparently everyone who admires him has seen secret layouts, from which they are delighted.

A private house built in the distant 60s, and it was then that it was fashion to build flooded houses, cannot have wonderful layouts. You need to know the HISTORY. It was allowed to build a TYPICAL SHIT, which was developed by the NIIS agricultural workers, it was not allowed to build anything else, moreover, it was also punished.
This is about the layout.
As for the material, actually about the slag-filling wall itself.
If this material is so great, why isn't anyone using it now? Why the hell do people buy all sorts of twin blocks for big money?
The fact that this material is excellent can only be said by those who, in our time, have undertaken and built such a house for themselves.
Gentlemen, which of you is ready to build a cinder house?
So don’t start, shit, this slag fish of yours.

Regarding the binder, lime, here at one very smart one, doubts sounded, Duc, do not hesitate, there are a lot of binder materials in nature, but it was LIME that was used in our slag-filling construction.

Good afternoon. We purchased a land plot, on it are the walls of a one-story cinder block house (the house was for 4 apartments, 4 entrances, total area 140 sq. M.). They have been standing without owners for a long time, there is a crack at the junction of the outer wall and the inner one (the wall collapses). The thickness of the walls is 50 cm, the foundation is made of rubble stone, the walls are preserved above the window opening. Now a controversial question is ripe - to demolish everything and build a new one out of blocks or restore the old one (reinforcement, screed or something else)? Help with advice.

Elena, Saratov.

As they say, a question of filling.

As far as faced with similar problems, the majority of owners who acquire land plots with the remains of buildings, especially old cinder block houses, prefer not to bother with their restoration. They simply demolish them and build new houses.

This is because when trying to restore such houses, a lot of problems and questions arise.

Slag is slag, the material is cheap and people were not built from it from a good life, there was not enough money for other materials.

In the best case, after examining the old foundations under the cinder block houses, if they can be used for the construction of a new house, then they do it. But for this you should invite an experienced builder to survey the foundation. Who could assess the possibility of such an option and correlate it with the configuration (project) of the new house.

/ For a comprehensive survey of the foundation, a trench is dug in several places to determine the depth of the foundation, its condition and the ability to bear the load from the new building. /

So decide for yourself what suits you best.

Other questions about walls in various rooms:

Brick the house

Questions about the walls

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The earliest structure built from cinder blocks is the Hermitage garage. This was over a hundred years ago.

You can also visit> and choose the best option for your home. Cinder block material was widespread in Russia, thanks to its positive features:

• Thermal insulation - achieved through the presence of internal cavities.

• Increased strength and durability. More than half a century can serve without changes.

• Speed ​​and low cost of buildings. The low cost of large slabs significantly speeds up the construction in comparison with brickwork.

Learn to distinguish between cinder blocks and pouring construction. Blocks are stronger because they are compacted with vibration. And flooded houses have a much shorter service period. What is slag? In metallurgy, the vitreous mass encloses the molten metal, protecting it. Solid waste from production is called slag, which is mixed with sand and concrete.

To reduce the cost of building materials, lime, expanded clay and other mixtures were added in different proportions, which negatively affected the service life of buildings. The wall covering cracks, pieces fall out and even the remaining ore "shoots". How to deal with such housing?

It may be easier to build a new home. But it is not always possible to invest large finances at once. Therefore, one of the solutions is a consistent overhaul.

Commissioning should start in the summer season.

1. Digging a trench around the old base

2. We clean it from dust and sand

3. We make a metal mesh and fix it with anchors to the old frame

4. We install the formwork and fill it with cement mortar

For external walls, experts recommend the creation of reinforced belts along the top of the walls above the windows and around the entire perimeter. The reinforcement is connected with a knitting wire and fixed to the facade. The recommended length of the rods is at least six meters, the thickness is 12-14 mm. Brick posts on the bases of the walls must also be tied up, having previously been gutted.

Next, plastering is done with a cement-sand mixture. Guides are installed in the corners, giving the corners an even look.

On the plaster, the walls are covered with a facade putty, having primed them.

The absence of a blind area in the foundations of houses with gable roofs can also serve as a reason for cracking the walls. The flowing water washes away the soil on one side, which leads to a gradual distortion of the entire building and cracks in the walls.

To give a modern look, you can hang siding or a blockhouse over the plaster, and sheathe the inside with plasterboard.

All these manipulations require considerable investments, therefore, before starting such global alterations, invite a specialist and calculate the cost of the project.

01/06/08 21:31 Reply to the message What to do with the cinder house? user parhom

It is better, of course, to consult with specialists, but at first glance the answer asks: “demolish”. Alas.

A neighbor struggled with such a disaster for ten years and eventually built a new house on the site of the old one. I also tried to cover with bricks, plaster, etc. Did not help. Most likely the house is from the 60s and 70s, and the cinder concrete is designed for a maximum of 50 years. And then if they did not spare cement during his kneading.

If you are going to brick it, keep in mind that this will increase the load on the foundation quite robustly. And it is not a fact that such a load will not exceed the calculated one. If during the construction someone considered something at all, and did not do it by eye.

By the way, the neighbor's house, by the way, just after he covered the house with bricks, one corner of 5 centimeters went down and cracks started along two walls.

If the jokes don't get through, it's not the mail's fault.

01/07/08 19:57 Reply to the message Re: What to do with the cinder house? user PSP

08.01.08 09:39 Reply to message Re: What to do with the cinder house? user Straga

My job is to tell the truth, not make me believe in it!

01/08/08 18:02 Reply to the message Re: What to do with the cinder house? user Sergunchik

01/08/08 22:03 Reply to the message Re: What to do with the cinder house? user Straga

My job is to tell the truth, not make me believe in it!

01/08/08 10:28 pm Reply to the message What to do with the cinder house? user parhom

The author just wrote
In response to: From time to time, cracks appeared on the walls, they were covered with mortar every summer and whitewashed. So, it all depends on what kind of cracks it is. If through the "crack" you can see the street, definitely demolish because the foundation is bad. And if they are small and it does not blow through them, then you can try to close it with siding, tiles, asbestos sheets, sheathe it with a wooden slat-scales, or come up with something else to your taste and wallet. If there is time and there is no money, then the fight of a tile (it costs 3 kopecks a bunch) laid on the mortar looks good, the seams are rubbed flush with the same mortar, it turns out well, especially if you collect multi-colored tiles.

But if cracks appear again, then this option will not save. There will be just cracks in the tiles or the tiles will fall off at the cracks.

The second most inexpensive way IMHO: to sew it up with a tree.
An unedged board is taken, on the sawmill we make edged boards 12-15 cm wide from it (it is not wider, because large scales do not look so beautiful) and stuffed onto vertical bars so that the bottom of the top board of 2 centimeters overlaps the top of the bottom board ... Afterwards, it is desirable to treat the boards with some kind of coloring compound (stain) and varnish. You can immediately paint with varnish. Looks pretty good.

If the jokes don't get through, it's not the mail's fault.

01/08/08 22:55 Reply to the message Re: What to do with the cinder house? user PSP

01/09/08 10:52 Reply to the message Re: What to do with the cinder house? user Straga

If the jokes don't get through, it's not the mail's fault.

01/09/08 13:17 Reply to the message Re: What to do with the cinder house? user Straga

Indeed, there were earlier restrictions on the use of materials containing asbestos in housing and civil construction. The basis was the observation and statistical data indicating oncological diseases of the respiratory system among workers employed in production and who have contact with asbestos. But this, as further studies showed, was associated with violations of working conditions and labor protection, safety measures, failure to use the necessary personal protective equipment, etc.

Last year, hygienic standards “The List of Asbestos-Cement Materials and Structures Allowed for Use in Construction” were put into effect, where materials and products manufactured according to approved GOSTs and TUs, passed a sanitary and hygienic assessment, were specified, on the basis of which the areas of their application were determined. in construction. Asbestos-cement materials specified in this list can be used for roofing, exterior wall decoration, water pipe laying, natural ventilation air ducts, etc. They can also be used for interior decoration of residential, public buildings, only on condition of their obligatory facing with glazed tiles or painting with oil paint in 2-3 layers.

Asbestos-cement materials that are not included in the list can be used in construction only if there is a sanitary and epidemiological conclusion of the state sanitary and epidemiological supervision authorities.