In detail: do-it-yourself slag house repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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Cinder block houses built in the 50s - 70s are slowly starting to crack. And not just cracks, but good cracks. The reasons for the cracks can be different, but the main thing is that before our fathers and mothers had nowhere to live, but they wanted to live like all normal people in their own house, so they built houses from what they had and said at the same time: “on our a century is enough.” During construction, they literally saved on everything: on the foundation, cement, on the quality of building materials, on the professional skills of specialists. And such a conceptas monolith and reinforcementwas generally from the realm of fantasy.
What to do with such cinder block houses? Building a new house will cost a pretty penny. And in a crumbling house, where plaster is crumbling, walls are cracking and tilting, the foundation is being destroyed, it is shameful, unpleasant, and most importantly not safe to live.
There are only three solutions here:
sell the old house and use the proceeds to start building a new one,
break everything and build anew,
make a major overhaul of an old cinder block house, using new modern construction technologies.
Since the first two options are much more expensive than the last, we will focus on it - do-it-yourself renovation of an old cinder block house.
You need to start the repair by assessing the condition of the house, inspecting it by specialists and deciding on the possibility of repair, its effectiveness and durability.
On many sites you can find information on how to repair cracks in a house by applying staples, followed by plastering. Yes, for a while you can throw dust in your eyes and “to cover up” crack! But, firstly, simply covering cracks and applying staples will not strengthen the house, after a while the crack will appear again, and secondly: you will simply throw away money with little or no result. But what if the crack appears again from year to year, and the wall begins to tilt? Deviations from the vertical state are clearly visible on the plumb line. In this case, an urgent decision needs to be made and we take - cinder block house needs a major overhaul.
Video (click to play).
In addition to repairing the foundation, for old houses built from loose cinder blocks, it is recommended to repair walls using the method of arranging several monolithic reinforced belts around the perimeter of the house followed by plastering on a metal mesh. Reinforcement can be stressed and conventional. Intense reinforcement is used in cases where it is necessary not only to strengthen, but also to screed the house. With stressed reinforcement, the diameter of the reinforcement or the cross section of the strip is chosen larger than with conventional reinforcement. However, after some time, the simple reinforcement of the wall will go into a state of tension on its own due to further shrinkage of the house. In combination with foundation repair, these activities can significantly prolong the life of an old stone or cinder block house, and the correct and reliable reinforcement of the walls of the house will simply give it a second life.
In connection with the aging of old houses, this problem today arises everywhere.
The photo shows a variant of the upper reinforcement of the cinder block wall including the brick corner posts of the house.
Reinforcement belts are installed at least along the top of the house (above the window openings) in several rows (at least 2 rows) around the perimeter. The fittings used must be corrugated and at least 6 meters long (the reinforcement diameter in our case is 12 mm.) with ligation or welding together to achieve a single monolithic structure.
An additional reinforcing belt is installed at the level of the bottom of the window openings in one or two rows around the entire perimeter of the house.
fittings for 12-14,
reinforcing mesh (to achieve the greatest reinforcing effect - it is rolled out and attached to the wall horizontally),
sand-cement mix.
In order to achieve a more rigid and unified structure, in a brick pillar, for laying reinforcement, a recess was drilled (by a grinder). Which, subsequently, is wetted or treated with a primer and sealed with a solution.
Rebar and reinforcing mesh after partial plastering.
Carry out the plastering of the old house along the lighthouses. This will save you a lot of time and give your renovated home a good look.
Separately, I will dwell on the mistake made during the repair of the walls of this house.
Namely: in contrast to the reinforcement, the reinforcing mesh was applied only on sections of the cinder block walls, the brick corner posts were plastered without a mesh. As a result, on one of the pillars, after the winter, the plaster began to move away. A possible reason for this situation was the insufficient preparation of the surface of the brick pillar for plastering.
But still, the best option and more reliable in all respects is the use of reinforcing mesh (preferably metal). The mesh is fastened on a section of a cinder block wall - with simple nails with plastic washers, and on sections of brickwork - with dowels.
After plastering on the lighthouses, the walls of the house are puttied with facade putty and painted with facade paint.
The photo shows the same fragment of the wall after two years of operation.
Yes, it is possible! But subject to a number of conditions and requirements.
The main ones are:
The repair of the foundation must be carried out with a double-sided reinforced concrete cage, while the cages must be interconnected by anchors;
For a reliable support to the second floor in the slag walls, there must be either brick support pillars (as in our case) or metal support pipes installed during the repair of the walls (usually square 100 x 100). And better than both;
Mandatory construction on top of the cinder block wall of the armored belt around the entire perimeter of the house, including all load-bearing walls. The thickness of the armored belt is at least 10 - 15 cm. The support for the armored belt is brick pillars and metal support pipes built into the cinder block walls;
The construction of the second floor is carried out from lightweight materials (gas silicate, lightweight full-bodied expanded clay concrete block “Thermolux”) with the use of reinforcement with masonry mesh;
a second armored belt 5-8 cm thick is constructed on top of the second floor.
the overlap of the second floor is also constructed lightweight.
Hello to all readers of the blog Today I remembered one song by Boris Grebenshchikov, in which there are such words: "... shining palaces of cinder concrete rise." And this is not because I remembered that the mood is musical and lyrical (although where would we be without it?). The fact is that these same “palaces” sometimes also need serious repairs. And here it is important to understand that the repair of slag walls differs in its technology from the repair of walls made of drywall, or made from other materials. So I wanted to share my knowledge and experience on how to repair an old cinder block house.
If, after this question, medical associations begin to flash in your head, then this is not a problem: this term is also used in the medical field. But now we are talking about construction. And from the point of view of construction, slag is a solid residue that appears after the end of the process of smelting metal from ore. Well, or after the coal is burned. There are other options, but in this case we will not dwell on them.If we talk about what building materials are made from slag, then this is usually tiles and bricks.
Also, you are probably familiar (well, or I will introduce you now) with such a building stone as a cinder block. This is such a small, let's say, slab, which is prepared using cinder-concrete mortar. The binder in cinder blocks is cement.
So, a small educational program passed. Now that we have a general idea of the subject, we can move on to the more practical part. The point is this: sometimes, already in the process of building a house, developers turn a blind eye to the quality of the slag that is chosen for the walls. Like, there is cement, it will bind everything. This is where the error lies. Slag is not just a filler. It affects both the properties of lime and the properties of cement. Hence, as one well-known Duchess said, morality: it is a high-flying bird (in the sense, the slag must be of high quality).
Now here's what. Cinder block walls and other slag walls can behave differently over the years, that is, damage from time to time can be of varying degrees of complexity and severity. Therefore, before repairing slag walls, you need to carefully assess how worn out the material is. Then it will be easy to pick up repair options.
Let's start with a simpler and less capital one. Let's say you have a house, slag walls, and over time, the plaster began to peel off, which will require repair. We have already discussed how to perform it once in the article - repairing wall plaster in separate places, I advise you to familiarize yourself. This can happen both outside and inside. What to do? For external repairs, work may be recommended not to restore, but to strengthen. It seems that all this is clear, but how to strengthen a house from slag? The principle of siding is quite suitable for such a case.
But indoors it would be nice to use the plasterboard sheathing method. This will hide defects, and the slag wall will become smoother. At your discretion and taste, you can apply other types of plates for interior decoration. Here you can choose which method to carry out repairs inside the cinder block house.
So, now about the cracks. The matter in this situation will be somewhat more complicated and painstaking than the usual finishing work on the slag from the inside. If you still do not want to change housing, build a new one and do similar pirouettes, then we take up the tool (not the head) and proceed to decisive action.
You can start repairing the walls with repairing the foundation. Longer, but more serious. You can arrange reinforced belts (they must be reinforced) around the entire perimeter of the house and then plaster them over a metal mesh. And if you still carry out this procedure in combination with strengthening the foundation, then the result will be doubly reliable: “cinder concrete palaces” will last for many, many more years.
I almost got out of my head: there are also structures made of bulk slag! They differ from those already listed in that they do not have the usual seams. What to do if they are repaired? For example, when plaster crumbles and cracks appear, you can pierce the plaster with nails, then pump a cement solution into the cracks under pressure. Next, create a kind of timber formwork, and then cement it.
Repair of walls in the apartment "overtakes" almost everyone. And how could it be otherwise: cracks in the walls, falling off plaster and other “little things” not only testify to the dilapidation of the living quarters, but also simply depress their appearance. Therefore, combat readiness number one is the first thing you need for a fearless start to this exciting process. And the result will surely please you. Imagine, the walls will become even, you will pick up the finish - as you entered a new house! In addition, they did the repair of the slag house with their own hands. Double respect (respect, of course). Now you can rest and enjoy.Remember, the hobbits said: "We sit on the field of victory and eat its well-deserved fruits!" Although you can not remember the quotes. It is important that you really succeed in the planned serious business. Good luck!
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What to do if the walls of the slag-loading house crumble? How to independently repair cinder-cast walls in order to achieve the desired result?
In the post-war years and up to the 70s of the last century, there was a shortage of high-quality building materials in the country. Therefore, houses in villages and in the private sector were often built from slag, which was a waste product. It was mixed with cement mortar and poured into pre-installed formwork, thus erecting walls. Since all this was done unprofessionally, and cement was saved by greatly diluting the solution with sand, in our time, the repair of slag-cast walls is becoming more and more relevant. They crack and literally crumble.
Of course, ideally, such a house should be demolished, and a new one should be built instead. However, not everyone can afford such expenses. In addition, while the construction is going on, you need to live somewhere. Therefore, we will consider repair options.
We reinforce and plaster the house from the outside. We make at least three straps around the house with reinforcement: one above the window line, two below. We attach a metal mesh to it (we tie it with wire or weld it). If the condition of the wall allows, the grid can be fixed with dowels. Then we plaster with a good adhesive for outdoor use. When the surface is dry, remove the roughness, make it smooth. Apply two or more coats of waterproof paint. In principle, a polymer mesh can also be used, but experience shows that metal is more reliable.
Sheathe the walls with siding or wood. We fix vertical rails on the walls using quick installation or dowels with self-tapping screws. Then we shoot them with paper clips using a siding panel pistol or fasten the boards with countersunk screws. For cladding, you can also use wood boards or asbestos sheets. Sheathing made of wood-based materials must be covered with stain and then painted. However, we want to draw your attention: unlike the previous method, wall cladding cannot be strengthened. It will only protect them from the harmful effects of the environment and will serve as an excellent way to decorate an outwardly unattractive building.
Alas, it does not always make sense to spend time, effort and money on repairing walls of this type. If time and the forces of nature have made them completely unsuitable for any restoration work, we recommend that you proceed as follows:
strengthen the foundation or make a new one. As in the case of walls, they probably saved money on materials for the foundation. And this means that even if the house has not yet shrunk, and the walls have not cracked, one day it will still happen. And this is a matter for the foreseeable future;
to the extent of financial possibilities and the availability of free time, build brick walls (or walls from other building material) on top of the new foundation, continuing to live in your old house, which you, in fact, will “surround” with a new one;
upon completion of the main construction work, dismantle the old house. This will not be difficult to do, given the degree of wear of the walls;
do not forget about the arrangement of the blind area, which will reliably protect the foundation from the destructive effects of moisture.
And most importantly - be sure that you will succeed if you have a desire to make your home better and more comfortable!
The problem is as follows: there is a cinder-cast house, the condition of the walls is satisfactory, but the foundation. Can be ripped apart by hand. Gradually falling apart.Outside, there are places where it has already been dumped to a depth of 5-7 centimeters. I looked from the cellar at the foundation from the inside of the house, the picture is as follows: the foundation is scattered, the beam lying on it has rotted. I can roughly imagine how the foundation is restored in wooden houses: either they raise it, or the lower crown is removed, the formwork is installed and the foundation is poured. But what to do in my case - I do not know. Raise - you can’t lift it, dig out from each side to the depth of the previous foundation and fill it - the question is whether the new foundation will fall off the old one, because the state of the latter is depressing.
For a preliminary assessment and possible solutions to the problem, a lot of additional information is needed. To begin with, you will have to dig several pits from the outside to the base of the foundation in order to assess its general condition (if necessary, inside). And so, in short, then you need information about the depth of the foundation, thickness, material and reinforcement, how much the base protrudes above the ground, where and from what waterproofing, what kind of blind area. What is the soil under the foundation and around, the depth of groundwater. House size and number of storeys.
The house is one-story, it is already 50 years old, I won’t say for sure right now, and plus or minus 5-10 years do not play a role. I don’t know the depth of the foundation, but you can see it closer to summer. The foundation protrudes from the ground by about 15 cm. There is a layer of roofing material on the foundation. At the expense of reinforcement - a piece broke off in one corner, there is nothing. In general, the foundation - g..no. Around the house is land, sprinkled with screenings in some places. In spring, groundwater reaches almost ground level. A full cellar of water, and even on the street, it is worth making a hole - water.
They suggested, as an option, drive hooks into the foundation from both sides, stretch the mesh on them and concrete the whole thing. But I'm afraid that then the fresh concrete, along with the hooks, will fall off. I also thought about punching through the foundation with a perforator in several places, and inserting reinforcement there. For the ends of the reinforcement, already cling to the mesh and concrete. But then how to waterproof the walls from the foundation?
I have something similar with a garden house - a foundation without reinforcement, and cracks in the brickwork burst from this. I plan to drill pins into the old foundation and pour a new reinforced one in parallel. The waterproofing will have to score. If the author of the topic has order with the walls, then why bother with the foundation? He stood for fifty years, which means he will last another 30 years, let the descendants have a headache there.
Well, it seems that it’s not old yet, I hope in 30 years I’ll have my own head on my shoulders
In general, it’s hard to walk past and look at the crumbling foundation, you have to do it. Moreover, the beams are rotten, new ones will have to be laid, which means that the foundation will be restored at least in these places. And the mesh is attached to the anchor bolts, I understand correctly?
igor3522 wrote: Moreover, the beams are rotten, new ones will have to be laid, which means that the foundation will be restored at least in these places.
IMHO. Beams mean floor joists? It is necessary to divert water from the foundation, make wide blind areas - then it will definitely stand for a long time
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man already found masters at votmastera.ru
Our company offers to repair slag-filled houses at an affordable cost. We reinforce the old structure, guarantee its reliability and increase its service life. To do this, our craftsmen equip a new foundation, perform brick cladding, change the roof and carry out internal work. Turnkey renovation! Warranty - from 5 years!
All technologies for repairing a slag-filling house provide for mandatory strengthening of the structure. First of all, this concerns the foundation, walls and roof. The most durable and suitable material for strengthening the walls of an old house is brick. Such cladding is used both for the construction of walls and for finishing objects built from other materials.
General technology for repairing a slag-filling house:
We dismantle the old roofing (most often it is slate) and the truss system. At the same time, we remove the remnants of slag backfill from the attic.
Next to the old, as a rule, loose foundation, we fill in a new strip foundation.
We carry out the arrangement of the blind area, waterproofing and insulation of the basement.
In the corners of the house, we remove the slag fill and lay strong columns.
We build a brick wall on a new foundation. We use clinker facing material. To increase strength, we connect the new wall with the old one. We insulate the gap between them.
We carry out the arrangement of a new truss system, installation and insulation of the roof (metal tiles), sheathing of gables.
Why do we recommend using a brick finish when repairing a slag-filled house:
High strength and reliability - it cannot be compared with the strength of slag-filled walls, which are already more than 40-50 years old. Also, a brick is 3 times stronger than foam concrete blocks.
High durability - brick objects serve more than 100 years. This is the best way to extend the life of an old slag house. It is even better to choose clinker material for cladding.
Complete fire safety - the fire resistance of bricks has never been in doubt. Your home will be safe, but for this you still need to properly equip the electrical wiring.
Ecological cleanliness - we carry out safe brick cladding, in which there is no chemistry. The materials used by our masters are products of natural production.
Possibility to implement unique architectural solutions. We offer finishing of facades of old slag houses according to individual projects.
Why is it not so often used to repair the facade of a slag house with a brick:
The high price of a brick structure. Especially when compared with conventional plaster, which is most often used for such purposes.
The high weight of the brick cladding requires the arrangement of a massive foundation. Strengthening the existing foundation for a slag house does not make any sense. As a rule, such a design is not distinguished by strength and reliability.
Work on the repair and decoration of the facade of a slag house with bricks cannot be carried out all year round.
To implement this project, the craftsmen used modern technologies to quickly repair slag-cast (slag-filled) old houses:
The roof was dismantled.
They poured the foundation.
The old slag walls were lined with clinker bricks and insulated.
They installed a new truss system, laid the roofing, insulated the roof.
The interior walls were sheathed with plasterboard sheets.
The interiors were designed in a laconic modern style, adding delicate Japanese motifs.
A dark parquet board was laid on the floor in the bedroom of this house. One of the walls of the dwelling was painted in coral color.
Our craftsmen securely attach the new brick wall to the slag base. To do this, we are laying special connections. We select their length taking into account the thickness of the slag load-bearing walls, the new cladding, the ventilated gap and the thickness of the mineral insulation.
We lay out a new brick wall from the bottom up, regularly checking its evenness with a level. To avoid efflorescence on the new facade, our specialists use masonry mortar prepared from special mixtures. We use clinker bricks for your projects, which are distinguished by the highest strength, durability and frost resistance.
We give a guarantee that neither cracks nor efflorescence will appear on the walls of the slag house after reinforcement and cladding. Quality from the experts! Warranty - from 5 years.
The video discusses the main points of the repair of slag houses.
Our company offers to renovate a slag-cast house at a bargain price. Turning to us, you can be sure of the high quality of work aimed at increasing the durability, thermal insulation and presentability of your home. Call, specify the prices for the repair of a slag house and order a turnkey project!
-1 I would have made control holes in the body, checked both with moisture, but this is a matter for specialists, PS I'm not special. this is the first second: what is the foundation? third: floor one? look at the attic.
PS: where do you buy, if not a secret, what area?
It is located in the village of Malysheva, the city of Asbest, 90 km from Yekat. A house of 70 sq.m., without interior decoration, with communications, costs 550 thousand rubles.
Chota I watch solid panegyrics in favor of this very house!
Apparently everyone who admires him has seen the secret layouts that they are delighted with. A private house built in the distant 60s, and it was then that it was fashionable to build bay houses, cannot have wonderful layouts. HISTORY needs to be known. It was allowed to build TYPICAL SHIT, which was developed by the Scientific Research Institute of Agricultural Dung, it was not allowed to build anything else, moreover, it was also punished. It's about planning. Regarding the material, actually about the slag wall itself. If this stuff is so great, why isn't anyone using it now? Why the hell do people buy all sorts of twin blocks for big money? The fact that this material is excellent can only be said by someone who in our time took it upon himself and built such a house for himself. Gentlemen, which of you is ready to build a slag-filled house? So don't call, shit, that slag fish of yours.
Regarding the binder, lime, here one, very smart, had doubts, so, do not hesitate, there are a lot of binder materials in nature, but it was LIME that was used in our slag-filling construction.
Good afternoon. We purchased a land plot, on which there are walls of a one-story cinder block house (the house had 4 apartments, 4 entrances, a total area of 140 sq.m). They stand without owners for a long time, there is a crack at the junction of the outer wall and the inner one (the wall collapses). The thickness of the walls is 50 cm, the foundation is made of rubble stone, the walls are preserved above the window opening. Now a controversial question has ripened - to demolish everything and build a new one from blocks or restore the old one (reinforcement, screed or something else)? Help advice.
Elena, Saratov.
As they say, it's a tricky question.
As far as faced with similar problems, the majority of owners who purchase land plots with the remains of buildings, especially old cinder block houses, prefer not to bother with their restoration. They simply demolish them and build new houses.
This is because when trying to restore such houses, a lot of problems and questions appear.
Slag is slag, the material is cheap and people were built from it not from a good life, there was not enough money for other materials.
In the best case, after examining the old foundations under the cinder block houses, if they can be used for the construction of a new house, then they do it. But for this you should invite an experienced builder to examine the foundation. Who could evaluate the possibility of such an option and correlate it with the configuration (project) of a new house.
/For a comprehensive survey of the foundation, a trench is dug in several places to determine the depth of the foundation, its condition and the ability to bear the load from the new building./
So decide for yourself what suits you best.
Other questions about walls in various rooms:
Brick up the house
Questions on the walls
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The earliest building built from cinder blocks is the Hermitage garage. This was over a hundred years ago.
You can also visit> and choose the best option for your home. Cinder block material was widely distributed in Russia due to its positive features:
• Thermal insulation - achieved through the presence of internal cavities.
• Increased strength and durability. More than half a century can serve without changes.
• Speed and cheapness of buildings. The low cost of large slabs significantly speeds up the construction in comparison with brickwork.
Learn to distinguish cinder blocks from construction by pouring. The blocks are stronger because they are compacted by vibration. And flooded houses have a much shorter service period. What is slag? In metallurgy, the vitreous mass covers the molten metal, protecting it. Solid waste from production is called slag, which is mixed with sand and concrete.
To reduce the cost of building materials, lime, expanded clay and other mixtures were added in different proportions, which negatively affected the service life of buildings. The wall covering cracks, pieces fall out and even the remaining ore “shoots”. How to deal with such housing?
It might be easier to build a new house. But it is not always possible to invest large amounts of money at once. Therefore, one of the outputs is a consistent overhaul.
Adjustment should begin in the summer season.
1. Dig a trench around the old base
2. We clean it from dust and sand
3. We make a metal mesh and fix it with anchors to the old frame
4. We install the formwork and fill it with cement mortar
For exterior walls, experts recommend the creation of reinforced belts both along the top of the walls above the windows and around the entire perimeter. The fittings are interconnected with a knitting wire and fixed to the facade. The recommended length of the rods is at least six meters, the thickness is 12-14 mm. Brick columns on the bases of the walls also need to be tied up, having previously been hammered.
Next, plastering is done with a cement-sand mixture. Guides are installed at the corners, giving the corners an even look.
On plaster, the walls are covered with facade putty, having primed them.
The lack of a blind area in the foundation of houses with gable roofs can also serve as a reason for cracking the walls. The flowing water washes away the soil on one side, which leads to a gradual distortion of the entire building and cracks in the walls.
To give a modern look, siding or a blockhouse can be hung on top of the plaster, and sheathed with drywall inside.
All these manipulations require considerable investments, so before starting such global alterations, invite a specialist and calculate the cost of the project.
06.01.08 21:31 Reply to the message What to do with the slag-cast house? user parhom
It is better, of course, to consult with specialists, but at first glance the answer seems to be: “demolish”. Alas.
A neighbor struggled with such a misfortune for ten years and eventually built a new house in place of the old one. I also tried bricking, plastering, etc. Did not help. Most likely the house of the 60-70s, and cinder concrete is designed for a maximum of 50 years.And then if they did not spare the cement during its mixing.
If you are going to brick it, keep in mind that this will significantly increase the load on the foundation. And it is not a fact that such a load will not exceed the calculated one. If, during the construction, someone considered something at all, and did not do it by eye.
At a neighbor, by the way, it was after he overlaid the house with bricks that one corner of 5 centimeters went down and cracks began along two walls.
If the jokes don't get through, it's not the mail's fault.
01/07/08 19:57 Reply to message Re: What to do with a cinder-cast house? user PSP
01/08/08 09:39 Reply to message Re: What to do with a slag-cast house? user Straga
My job is to tell the truth, not to force you to believe in it!
08.01.08 18:02 Reply to message Re: What to do with a slag-cast house? user Sergunchik
01/08/08 22:03 Reply to the message Re: What to do with a slag-cast house? user Straga
My job is to tell the truth, not to force you to believe in it!
08.01.08 22:28 Reply to the message What to do with the slag-cast house? user parhom
The author just wrote In response to: From time to time, cracks appeared on the walls, they were smeared with mortar and whitewashed every summer. So it all depends on what kind of cracks. If you can see the street through the “crack”, it’s definitely demolished because of a bad foundation. And if they are small and it doesn’t blow through them, then you can try to cover them with siding, tiles, asbestos sheets, sheathe them with a wooden lath-scale, or come up with something else to your taste and wallet. If there is time and no money, then the battle of the tile looks good (it costs 3 kopecks a bunch) laid on the mortar, the seams are rubbed flush with the same mortar, it turns out well, especially if you pick up multi-colored tiles.
But if cracks appear again, then this option will not save. There will simply be cracks in the tile or the tile will fall off in places of cracks.
The second most inexpensive way IMHO: sew up with a tree. An unedged board is taken, at the sawmill we make edged boards 12-15 cm wide from it (it’s not worth it wider, because the big scales don’t look so beautiful) and stuffed onto vertical bars so that the bottom of the top board of a centimeter overlaps the top of the bottom board by 2 . After that, it is desirable to treat the boards with some kind of coloring composition (stain) and varnish. You can immediately coloring varnish. Looks pretty good.
If the jokes don't get through, it's not the mail's fault.
01/08/08 22:55 Reply to the message Re: What to do with a slag-cast house? user PSP
09.01.08 10:52 Reply to message Re: What to do with a slag-cast house? user Straga
If the jokes don't get through, it's not the mail's fault.
01/09/08 13:17 Reply to the message Re: What to do with a slag-cast house? user Straga
Indeed, earlier there were restrictions on the use of materials containing asbestos in housing and civil construction. The grounds were observations and statistical data indicating oncological diseases of the respiratory organs among workers employed in production and having contact with asbestos. But this, as further studies showed, was associated with violations of working conditions and labor protection, safety precautions, non-use of the necessary personal protective equipment, etc.
Last year, the hygienic standards “List of asbestos-cement materials and structures permitted for use in construction” were put into effect, which lists materials and products manufactured in accordance with approved GOSTs and specifications that have passed a sanitary and hygienic assessment, on the basis of which their areas of application are determined. in construction. Asbestos-cement materials listed in this list can be used for roofing, exterior wall decoration, laying water pipes, natural ventilation ducts, etc. They can also be used for interior decoration of residential and public buildings, only if they are obligatory faced with glazed tiles or painting with oil paint in 2-3 layers.
Video (click to play).
Asbestos-cement materials that are not included in the list can be used in construction only if there is a sanitary and epidemiological conclusion of the state sanitary and epidemiological supervision authorities.