DIY high pressure hoses repair

Modern cars that are supplied to the market are increasingly equipped with a power steering system. The hydraulic booster is part of the steering mechanism and makes it easier to control the vehicle. The driver does not have to put in a lot of effort when turning the steering wheel. For the stable operation of the hydraulic system, it is important to ensure a constant and free flow of the working fluid between the constituent elements inside - this task is solved with the help of special hoses. Over time, this structural part fails.

The Lenhydravlika company offers its assistance in the replacement of connecting elements. All work is carried out by experienced MAZDA service specialists (address: St. Petersburg, Bobruiskaya st., 11). Our clients expect good discounts on services. Alternatively, car owners can also repair the power steering high pressure hoses with their own hands.

Flexible tubes included in the power steering structure are called high-pressure hoses. Elements play an important role in the operation of a hydraulic structure. Through the hoses, liquids and gases pumped into the system are transported. In addition, high pressure hoses absorb vibrations, increasing the service life of the steering elements. Hose connections are subject to significant stress. In addition to mechanical deformations and bends, the tubes of the power steering system are tested by high pressure, temperature drops, and withstand the aggressive effects of chemicals, on the basis of which automobile fluids are produced.

The service life of the pipes largely depends on their quality and the reliability of the connecting fittings. Hose construction includes inner and outer layers, as well as a metal braid. The outer part of the tubes is made of thermally stable, wear-resistant rubber. The inner surface of the hose is synthetic rubber. The braid gives the hose extra strength, allowing it to be safely used in extreme conditions.

The masters name a number of reasons why the connection hose needs to be repaired:

1. 1. Poor crimp quality or defective tube.
2. 2. Inadequacy of the parameters of the installed hose to the conditions of use (too high pressure, violation of the temperature regime, incorrect choice of the length of the product).
3. 3. Damage caused by long-term operation of the high pressure hose (hose leaks as a result of a break or cut, corrosive processes and loss of sealing of joints, abrasion of the surface).

A malfunction of the high pressure hose is indicated by hum and extraneous noise when the pump is turned on, a decrease in the level of liquid in the car's tank, and unclear steering. Before carrying out repairs, it is important to accurately determine the location and nature of the damage to the high pressure hose - you can do this yourself or contact the MAZDA service specialists for help. Professionals in the auto repair shop will perform the work efficiently and inexpensively.

Each car owner closely monitors the technical condition of his steel "horse", because the safety of its operation depends on it. Worn or damaged power steering hoses are a common cause of breakdown and malfunctioning steering. Regardless of the nature of the problem, it is solved in two ways - full or partial replacement of the RVD. The pressure level in the power steering system is quite high - 70 to 130 kgf / cm2. At these rates, hose clamps cannot be used to secure the hoses.It is also not recommended to solder fittings to hoses that are subject to high stress - this can only be used as a temporary measure.

When planning to carry out a complete replacement of the hose of the high pressure hose with your own hands, adhere to the scheme:

• - Raise the front of the car and turn the steering wheel to the left as far as it will go.
• - Put the end of the hose onto the syringe and pump out the technical liquid from the tank.
• - Plug the holes in the control system after complete dismantling of the high pressure hose.
• - Select a new part with suitable parameters and replace it.
• - Top up the required volume of pumped-out liquid back.

In some situations, it will not be necessary to replace, but to repair the hose (RVD) with your own hands. Subject to certain rules and the presence of a tool, it is easy to perform such manipulations:

• - Disconnect the damaged hose, carefully measure it and look at the markings. When selecting new hoses, be sure to match the parameters.
• - The ends of the hoses are thoroughly cleaned inside and outside to braiding using a debarking machine.
• - Select reliable and suitable fittings - fittings.

- Fastening of fittings to the sleeve is carried out by means of crimping equipment.

- Check the quality of the work done.

Care, accuracy and strict adherence to the instructions will allow you to quickly and efficiently repair the power steering high-pressure hoses with your own hands. But if you have any questions or difficulties in the process of work, be sure to contact the specialists of our car service. Extensive work experience allows you to replace the high pressure hoses in the shortest possible time.

High pressure hoses are used in pneumatic and hydraulic structures. In the automotive industry, they are widely used in steering. Thanks to the built-in hydraulic booster, the driver has the opportunity not to apply significant load on the steering wheel when cornering.

However, under certain operating conditions, various deformations of the tubes or sleeves are possible. Subsequently, this leads to unstable operation of the unit, which can be corrected by repairing the high-pressure hoses of the power steering with your own hands or with the help of specialists at the service station.

Hoses, which are more commonly referred to as high-pressure hoses, are flexible pipelines, for which the main task is to pump working fluids. Specially prepared motor oils or working fluids based on mineral oils, aqueous solutions of emulsols, glycol, and also greases are used as the transported material.

It is difficult to imagine the work of a hydraulic booster without high-quality flexible hoses that can withstand the required pressure and an extensive pipeline system. In addition to the direct responsibility for pumping the working fluid, such hoses act as dampers (compensators) that increase the operating period of the connecting elements, fittings, fittings and the system as a whole.

Vibration absorption by flexible elements contributes to these results. The negative side of the phenomenon is that periodic replacement or repair of the power steering hoses in worn areas is required. After all all scuffs or kinks will soon lead to the tube leaking.

In addition to working under high pressure, the hydraulic booster hose must have a reduced susceptibility to the used working fluids. Thanks to this, its inner surface is made on the basis of oil-resistant and petrol-resistant synthetic rubber.

The outer surface is protected by layers of wear-resistant rubber. Under certain circumstances, this layer plays the role of thermal protection. It can have the following surfaces:

The outer and inner layers are separated by a metal braid. This gives the entire structure the required operational strength and admissible rigidity.Wire layers alternate with rubberized elements.

It is customary to separate the following types of hoses:

• Coiling... During the manufacture of this product, the turns of the wire are braided evenly around the entire perimeter.
• Braiding... Each turn covers the sleeve at a certain angle to the common axis in such a way that it crosses with the turns of the previous layers. This technology increases the strength of the structure and can operate at higher pressures than the previous type.

The frame for the sleeve in some models is textiles. The geometrical and physicochemical parameters of wire and rubber are standardized for various applications.

Motorists may encounter different types of hydraulic damage during operation, after which the power steering hoses need to be repaired. You can designate the following points:

1. Manufacturer's marriage... The peculiarity is typical for under-known manufacturers of hydraulic equipment. Breakage is characterized by poor-quality crimping of the sleeve or fitting joint. This happens when hardware is out of order or misconfigured.
2. Operational output... Damage is caused by wear during the operation of the mechanism. The main problems are cord breaks, cuts and frayed areas. This often occurs due to sagging of the hose due to the wrong length.
3. Structural inconsistencies... Failure occurs due to the installation of equipment that does not meet the characteristics specified by the automaker. In such situations, the wire may break or the fittings may break due to the mismatch of the pressure in the system with the permissible value for the hose.
4. Disagreement in temperature or chemical characteristics... Damage to the structure can occur during operation at ambient temperatures for which such rubber was not designed, as well as during the use of aggressive chemicals in the structure of the working fluid.

Damage to the power steering hoses

All characteristics and permissible operating parameters for each hose are indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions for use.

Hydraulic malfunctions with which the further operation of the vehicle is not recommended:

• fittings are significantly damaged by corrosion processes;
• significant break in the sleeve;
• significant abrasion of the outer part of the hose;
• the presence of complete or partial blockage inside the sleeves;
• lack of sealing of connections;
• stripping the fitting from the bore diameter;
• fluid leakage at the joints;
• deformation or damage to the inner surface from high pressure or excess temperature.

In all cases, sleeve replacement or repair is required.

Based on the nature of possible damage, it can be assumed that the most common repair of power steering hoses is to tidy up the fittings or replace individual parts of the hose. To carry out the replacement, crimps with couplings will be required.

DIY repair tools

The work algorithm can be as follows:

1. The damaged sleeve must be disconnected from the system.
2. The new hose will need to be the same length to avoid creating unnecessary sagging. Measurement is carried out from nipple to nipple. At the same time, we select a hose that satisfies all geometric data and pressure parameters. This will be helped by the marking indicated by the manufacturer on the outside. The inner diameter will also be indicated there.
3. When repairing a high pressure hose, the ends are stripped both outside and inside to a metal braid. The procedure is faster with the use of debarkers.
4. Fittings are selected according to geometric parameters and technological thread data. Measurements are easy with a caliper and thread gauge. Domestic and foreign fittings may differ among themselves according to several criteria, so it is better to carry out measurements yourself.
5. The fittings are crimped using crimping equipment, using in each case suitable removable cams.
6. Using the control probe, we determine the quality of the work performed. At specialized factories, this operation is carried out using special industrial stands.

For non-standard connections, repair kits with recommended fittings must be used. It is possible to detach the head of the old fitting, if it is not damaged, and solder it to the part to be crimped. This option is used in extreme cases, since the effect of this repair is short-lived.

Hose damage in most cases occurs due to frequent turning of the steering wheel with great effort. Wear occurs at the hose connected to the restriction valve.

When installing and repairing power steering hoses, it is necessary to take into account that the allowable pressure in the system can vary depending on the car models in the range of 80 ... 130 kgf / cm 2.

Such significant performance indicators do not allow the use of any types of clamps during repairs. You must choose the most appropriate option:

1. Complete sleeve replacement.
2. Partial replacement of a deformed or worn-out area with the installation of fittings on a new sleeve.

Replacing and installing a new hose is carried out according to the following points:

• using a lift or jack, the front axle must be raised;
• the steering wheel is turned to the left as much as possible;
• a tube is put on the end of the medical syringe for pumping out the residual working fluid from the tank;
• after pumping out, the hose must be disconnected and the hydraulic holes must be plugged;
• a new sleeve with operating permissible characteristics is selected so that the operational characteristics of the unit do not change;
• in place of the old hose, a new one is mounted, after which the working fluid is poured into the system.

If the work is carried out correctly, the hydraulics are fully operational.

So how did it all end up with the vehicle? Can the pressure hoses be restored?

ask?
***
it turns out that I have been using this device for a year and a half - everything suits me. Here I took a picture:

once it seemed that the slurry became less topped up with half a shot. but I think it seemed.
in summer it sometimes "winds up" when you turn the steering wheel. sometimes - probably once a week, or maybe in the heat (I did not detect it on purpose), but this sound is a second.
poured into the power steering (right now, experts will pounce on me.) this thing:

(because the previous owner poured it, so it happened from the purchase, although there are two liters of original (green) slurry in the garage)
when repairing the hose, I did not drain anything from the rail, and generally tried to leak out less, so I took what was already filled in for refilling. maybe because of the difference in the viscosity of "mine" and the original, and there are no side intrusive sounds. I don't touch this topic anymore, pah-pah-pah.

I apologize that I just saw the questions.
noticed that it was flowing near the power steering pump from under a thin rubber casing that closed the power steering hose. when they started to razderbanivat RVD cut off this casing and saw that from under one of the two collars that hold two fittings inside the RVD a hole formed and liquid oozed from it. somewhere here I read that just these clamps, starting to rust, become "toothy" at the edges and due to the fact that they strongly compress the RVD they "cut" it.
The original sleeve consists of two hoses. the outer one is a simple thin rubber that simply covers the main hose like a cover.

but the main hose is a tricky device. the hose itself is reinforced, something like

and already inside it there are such plastic tubes that hold the metal fittings, and the fittings are already clamped with steel clamps outside the hose:

I just freed the fittings from my RVD, measured the distance between them and the angles of their inclination to each other, then took a new (empty) metal-reinforced hose of the required length, inserted (my) fittings into it and squeezed them on a special machine.plastic pipes, fittings and clamps were not installed outside, because the plastic tubes were damaged when the old RVD was beaten out. it turned out that my fittings were crimped on a special machine with a new reinforced hose. that's all.

• Repair of high pressure hoses
• Damage to high pressure hoses
• How are high pressure hoses repaired?
• Power steering hose repair

High pressure hoses, which are more commonly called high pressure hoses or high pressure hoses, are designed to absorb or create working forces that, under the influence of high pressure, are transmitted through the liquids or gases injected into them. High pressure hoses are mainly used in hydraulic and pneumatic systems and mechanisms. In addition to industrial production, high pressure hoses are also found in road transport - in power steering and in high-pressure hydraulic pumps, for example, the Kӓrcher brand, which is the most common in our country.

The causes of rupture and cracks in high pressure hoses can be divided into several types:

1. Defect of the manufacturer. Often this is a poorly made crimping of the joint of a hose and a fitting due to the use of low-quality or unfinished equipment.

2. Damage received during the operation of the main mechanism. They occur as cuts and tears in the hoses. The most common reason for this is sagging high pressure hoses due to incorrect lengths.

3. Damage resulting from inadequacy of the parameters of the hoses to the operating conditions. This can be either a failure of a fitting or a rupture of the hose. As a result, the pressure exceeds the allowable pressure for which the hose itself is designed.

4. Damage to the outer layer arising from the use of the hose in the wrong temperature regime, for which the hose is not designed to work.

It's important to know! For maximum protection of high-pressure hoses from possible damage, it is necessary to seriously check their characteristics and parameters for compliance with operating conditions. First of all, this is the calculated value of the maximum allowable pressure, temperature and minimum bend of the hose.

TO the most common damage to high pressure hoses include the following:

1. Corrosion-prone fittings.

2. RVD break.

3. Abrasion and wear on the upper layer of the sleeve.

4. Blockage in the hose.

5. Leakage of the fitting connection.

6. Fitting stripping from the sleeve.

7. Leaking fitting connection.

8. Damage to the inner rubber layer due to high temperatures.

From all of the above, we can summarize that the repair of high pressure hoses consists in replacing fittings or certain damaged sections of the high pressure hose. Carrying out a replacement, both in the first and in the second version, it will be necessary to crimp the coupling. Technologically, in both cases, these actions are almost identical. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. The damaged hose must be disconnected from the main mechanism.

2. Cut the new sleeve to the same size as the old one. For measurement, it is necessary to take the distance between the end ends of the nipples. It is better to choose a hose designed for the maximum possible pressure in the system, or at least one that will withstand heavy loads than a replaceable one. When choosing the required diameter, follow the markings on the sleeves. The factory marking DN indicates the inner bore diameter of the hose.

3. If you have to repair a heavy hose that is designed to withstand increased pressure, its ends must be cleaned from the inside and outside to a metal braid. This procedure is best done on debarkers.

4. Next, select the necessary fittings. This can cause some inconvenience, due to the fact that imported parts can be manufactured according to completely different standards. If you have any difficulty, it is better to measure the old fitting with a caliper and a thread gauge.This will allow you to most accurately select the necessary parameters of the new fitting according to the tables.

5. Next, you need to crimp the fittings on a crimping machine. Removable jaws are individually matched to each diameter.

6. Then be sure to check the quality of the procedure performed using the control probe. Ideally, testing should be done on a specially equipped test bench. If the connection is non-standard, a repair fitting is used. To do this, take the head of the old fitting and solder the part to be crimped. This method is suitable for emergency repair of power steering hoses.

The high-pressure hoses for the power steering are damaged mainly when the steering wheel is rotated, during which serious forces are generated. As a result, deformation of the elastic element occurs, which changes the size of the holes in the distribution mechanism that regulates the pressure drops in the hydraulic cylinder. There is a wear of the power steering hose connected to the restrictive valve.

This element is designed for a certain pressure, which varies depending on the make and model of the car: from 70 to 130 kgf / cm2. With such a high pressure, repairing a damaged power steering hose with clamps or wire is simply impossible. A couple of options remain: either replace the entire power steering tube, or only its damaged parts, by installing the fittings on a new hose.

Replacing and installing a new hose power steering is carried out as follows:

1. Jack up the front of the vehicle.

2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left.

3. Put a tube from the power steering tank on a syringe with a needle and pump out all the liquid.

4. Then disconnect the hose and plug the working holes of the hydraulic system.

5. Carefully observing all parameters, select a new hose. Otherwise, the functional qualities of the power steering will change.

6. Install a new hose, refill the fluid and check the quality of the installation.

here is another victory of mine. this time I won the high pressure hose of the hydrach. sawed off the hose, cut off the crimp of the hose from the fitting on emery, sawed off the end of the fitting a little, since it rested against some kind of iron tube inside the hose and did not climb to the end, put a clamp on the hose, put the fitting into the hose and tightened it

by the way, at the expense of clamps, a friend went to Moscow and bought 10 pieces there (minimum batch)

Miniatures

Posted by: Nixer, 05 March 2000 19:55:17

If someone is not friendly with soldering with an oxygen-propane burner, then they may not read further, or read and find those who will help (for example, refrigerators-air conditioners, as I did 🙂

Applied on the same unfortunate experimental Sierra ”82 (V6 2.3) already in 98 and works faithfully and truthfully to this day.

The high-pressure hose - from the power-steering receiver to the steering rack - is a thick, 2-layer reinforced rubber tube (when removed, then cut in half - it was interesting :), crimped at the ends with metal knobs with copper (hardened) tubes and nuts (fittings). I did not measure the pressure in it, but it looks like it was much higher than atmospheric :), and the ATF return hose from the rail to the power steering tank is quite the opposite - simple petrol-resistant rubber, pulled to the tubes with clamps.
So, a thick infection cracked under the knob itself, and all ATF under pressure on the road and flowed out (chagrin, and nothing more).
Accordingly, I hobbled somehow to the parking lot (you quickly get used to good things), and the next day - to go shopping. Maybe someone is still worth crap, but for a 82g.v. car, although in excellent condition, there is only: native-Ford-from-warehouse-in-chukhna-only-for-$ 50: * o On disassembly such engines are very rare, so they offered to relax. The hose cannot be repaired.

The Russians are not a BUILDER. Methodology:
1. I cut off the end copper tubes under the very knobs.
2.I take a piece of copper tube 2 times longer than the hose itself (the cross section, I don’t remember exactly, it seems like 8 - coincides with the internal cross section of the native hose, but goodbye problems with resistance to ATF flow).
3. I “release” the copper 8-ku with a burner - the hardened infection was slipped in, then it will have to be bent in place.
4. With a torch I gently solder the cut fittings from the native tube (assembled with nuts, essno) to the ends of the 8-ki (they should not be connected end-to-end, but with the help of a 3 cm section of a larger diameter tube, 10-ki, for example). Do not spare gumboil and solder - tightness is needed!
5. I twist the resulting structure so that in the middle I get a couple of turns of 10-15 cm in diameter. The twisted tube protects against transmission of engine vibration to the steering column and the body itself.
6. I screw the structure into place (GRU tank - rail), bending it in place where necessary.
7. Fill in ATF, Start engine, Check for leaks.
8. I rejoice and rejoice at the living power steering.

Advantages of the method: cheap and cheerful (a copper tube with a diameter of 8 mm, a length of about 1 m - it costs a penny in a store. Work - by yourself or as you agree).
Possible disadvantages: if you solder yourself and out of habit, it takes exactly one evening, but if you agree with the “solders”, you can faster.

Deon »Fri, 07 Oct 2011 7:14

Hello everyone! So my hose has filled up in the place of rolling. Used costs from 2 thousand. Repairs are a little cheaper and they are not always taken.
I searched the Internet for how to fix it myself and found one Temka on the Nissan-Silfi Forum ():

Bought Silfi in 2004 volume of 1.8 liters. bumped into a problem-when turning the steering wheel there was some kind of hum. Having examined properly, I did not find anything.
After 2 weeks of operation, I noticed that the level in the hydraulics had dropped, and somehow in the parking lot I saw a drop under the car. There was a leak from the high-pressure hose, and quite a bit and with sharp turns with the steering wheel from side to side. A new hose costs about 10-12 thousand.
The question was resolved with a friend like this.
We covered the rolling place with a sealant that is suitable for the box, then wrapped this place with fiberglass and filled it with epoxy. After drying, they put everything in place.
Pumped the dextron bay to the level.
The most interesting thing is that the hum (noise) while turning the steering wheel disappeared.
Thank you all. Maybe someone will come in handy.

Who thinks what? Maybe try? I want to take a chance, but a few questions remain:
1. What kind of fiberglass? Where is it sold? And in which stores is epoxy sold?
2. How to remove and install the power steering hose correctly? (Drain all dexron? How to pump correctly, etc.?)
Thank you.

Sergey 506 »Fri, 07 Oct 2011 7:33 am

2002 Mazda Atenza Sport Wagon

2001 Mitsubishi Lancer Cedia 1.5 Extra -SOLD OUT

TOYOTA BB2 2008

Deon »Fri, 07 Oct 2011 7:43

viktor_l »Fri, 07 Oct 2011 8:00

Deon »Fri, 07 Oct 2011 8:15

viktor_l »Fri, 07 Oct 2011 8:20

Deon »Fri, 07 Oct 2011 8:54

Andrew »Mon, 31 Oct 2011 18:08

u] Bought Silfi in 2004 volume of 1.8 liters. bumped into a problem-when turning the steering wheel there was some kind of hum. Having examined properly, I did not find anything.
After 2 weeks of operation, I noticed that the level in the hydraulics had dropped, and somehow in the parking lot I saw a drop under the car. There was a leak from the high-pressure hose, and quite a bit and with sharp turns with the steering wheel from side to side. A new hose costs about 10-12 thousand.
The question was resolved with a friend like this.
We covered the rolling place with a sealant that is suitable for the box, then wrapped this place with fiberglass and filled it with epoxy. After drying, they put everything in place.
Pumped the dextron bay to the level.
The most interesting thing is that the hum (noise) while turning the steering wheel disappeared.
Thank you all. Maybe someone will come in handy. [/ U]
Who thinks what? Maybe try? I want to take a chance, but a few questions remain:
1. What kind of fiberglass? Where is it sold? And in which stores is epoxy sold?
2. How to remove and install the power steering hose correctly? (Drain all dexron? How to pump correctly, etc.?)
Thank you. [/ Quote]

Please tell me how you can repair the power steering hose (it leaks in several places, but the consumption of g / fluid is not significant) or how to replace it, without special costs? The original hose is very expensive!

to ALeeX: If only to choose the diameter, and so it is better to take the original one. Or find it on parsing.

And where in the analysis. Where I have not looked, or where not! Tell!
to mATr1xX:

to ALeeX: In the analysis of your city, you can also choose the size and composition of the hose.

New hose (original) - 8,000 rubles + replacement of 1,500 rubles.

Can be repaired. Issue price 1000 rubles. It is done in 10 minutes - the hose is cut off, tightened with new nuts and crimped.

Can you give more details!?
to Rain:

to ALeeX: This is done on the service, as you know. Repairs may not be possible, the master must take a look. And so, here's a useful little list.

Thanks for the list. And what if, leave the tubes from the hose, and replace the hose itself, for example, with a KAMAZ (suitable) one and press it into the very tubes. How do you like this option?
to Rain:

ALeeX: Thanks for the list. And what if, leave the tubes from the hose, and replace the hose itself, for example, with a KAMAZ (suitable) one and press it into the very tubes. How do you like this option?
to Rain: #

A good option. Only if you have a workshop where tubes can be sealed in this way, they can make a new hose of any length and with any ferrules.

I personally did not understand the option of cutting the hose and tightening the nuts. But I do not advise you to do it, because this is the steering, and not the headlight washer.

High-pressure hoses, more often called high-pressure hoses (HPH), are designed to create or absorb a working force that is transmitted under high pressure by liquids or gases pumped into them.

The main area of ​​application of high pressure hoses is hydraulic and pneumatic systems of various devices and mechanisms. Outside of industrial production, the owners of vehicles most often deal with RVD, these are power steering hoses (GUR), and those who use high-pressure pumps, for example, the most common Karcher brand in our country.

The design of the RVD is due to the need to withstand internal pressure, which can reach several hundred atmospheres.

In addition, the inner surface of the high-pressure hose must be insensitive to the influences of the transported medium. Therefore, its lower layer is made of oil-resistant rubber or synthetic rubber.

For the manufacture of the upper, thicker layer of the high-pressure hose, wear-resistant rubber is used, which, if necessary, is supplemented with thermal protection in the form of a corrugated coating, metal or polymer.

Between the upper and lower layers of rubber, a metal wire is wound in several layers, due to which the hose receives the required rigidity and strength. Wire layers are interspersed with thin rubber films.

There are two types of high pressure hoses, depending on the way the wire is wound:

1. Coiling. In the production of this type of hose, the wire turns are wound in even rows.
2. Braiding. In this case, the turns are wound at an angle to the axis of the hose so that the turns of the previous layer intersect with the turns of the next layer of wire. Braided hoses are more durable and able to withstand more pressure than coiled hoses.

In addition to wire, textiles can act as an internal rigid frame.

The number of wire layers and the thickness of the rubber layers are set by standards that determine the field of application of a particular type of hose.

To fix the hoses in place, fittings (tips) are mounted at their ends, which are of the following types:

Fastening of fittings to the ends of the hose is carried out using crimp couplings, which are crimped on special machines.

Depending on the type of shank, fittings are classified by series:

1. Universal. This series can be used in all hoses of high pressure hoses, except for hoses of the winding type.
2. Interlock. The series is used for winding sleeves.

When installing this type of fitting, it is imperative to remove both layers of rubber, inner and outer.

High pressure hose fittings

The operation to remove layers of rubber is called hose debarking.

Cs.Fittings of this series also crimp winding sleeves, but it is no longer necessary to remove the rubber of the upper and lower layers.

Failure of fittings is the most common case of damage to high pressure hoses. This is due to the magnitude and intensity of the loads they experience.

The causes of damage can be divided into the following types:

• Manufacturing defects. Most often, this is a poor-quality crimping of the joint of a fitting with a hose, due to the use of artisanal or unfinished equipment.
• Damage sustained during the operation of the main mechanism. They appear as cuts and ruptures in the hose. The most common cause is sagging of the hose due to the wrong length.
• Damage caused by the inadequacy of the parameters of the high pressure hose to the operating conditions. This could be a hose rupture or a break in a fitting, because of this, the pressure was higher than that for which the hose was designed.
• In the same series, damage to the outer layer of the RVD should be mentioned when it is used in a different temperature regime for which it is designed.

Important! In order to maximally protect against possible damage to the high pressure hoses, when choosing them, it is necessary to carefully check the compliance of their characteristics and parameters with the operating conditions.

High pressure hoses with fittings

First of all, we are talking about the calculated value of the maximum allowable pressure, temperature and the minimum bending radius of the hose.
The most common damage to high pressure hoses is as follows:

1. Corrosion on fittings.
2. Broken sleeves.
3. Abrasion and deterioration of the upper layer of the hose.
4. Clogged sleeve.
5. Violation of the tightness of the connection of the fitting.
6. Fitting stripping from the hose.
7. Leaking fitting connection.
8. Thermal damage to the inner rubber layer.

Back to content ↑

From the foregoing, it can be concluded that the repair of the high pressure hose consists either in replacing the damaged section or in replacing the fittings that have become unusable.

When replacing a damaged area, as well as when replacing fittings, you will need to crimp the couplings, that is, technologically these two actions are very similar.

The sequence of operations in this case looks like this:

1. The damaged sleeve is detached from the main mechanism.
2. The cutting machine cuts a new sleeve according to the size of the old one. Moreover, for measurement, the distance between the ends of the nipples at its ends is taken. It is better to choose a high pressure hose designed for a higher pressure than that for which the old high pressure hose was designed.
3. The marking on the sleeves will help to choose the required diameter.

The factory marking DN indicates the inner bore diameter of the hose.

If a hose designed for increased pressure (heavy hose) is to be repaired, its ends are cleaned from the inside and outside to a metal braid. This operation is performed on debarkers.

Then the necessary fittings are selected. This can be tricky, since imported fittings are manufactured according to different standards.
In case of difficulty, the easiest way is to make measurements on the old fitting with a caliper and a thread gauge, which will allow you to accurately set the required diameter and thread pitch and then select the required parameters of the new fitting according to the tables.

After debarking and selection of fittings, they are crimped on crimping machines. Removable crimping jaws are available for each diameter.

Further, the quality of the crimping is checked. For this, a control probe is used, but it is best to test on a special test bench.

If a non-standard connection is found, then the repair is carried out using a repair fitting. For this, the head of the old fitting is taken, to which the part to be pressed is soldered.

This method is often used by motorists for emergency repair of power steering hoses, as well as owners of Kircher pumps and mini-washers.

The most common cause of damage to the power steering hoses is that when the steering wheel rotates, there is a serious force due to friction. This force causes deformation of the elastic element, which changes the size of the holes in the distribution mechanism, which regulates the pressure drop in the hydraulic cylinder.

As a result, the power steering sleeve connected to the restrictive valve wears out. This power steering hose is designed for pressure, depending on the car brand, from 70 to 130 kgf / cm2.

With such a high pressure, repairing a damaged power steering hose with clamps or wire is almost impossible.

There are two options left: either replace the entire power steering tube, or replace only the damaged part of it by rearranging the fittings to a new hose.

Moreover, it is better to rearrange the fittings in a special workshop.

Replacing and installing the power steering hose is performed as follows:

1. The front of the vehicle is jacked up.
2. The steering wheel is turned all the way to the left.
3. A syringe with a tube attached to a needle is pumped out of the power steering reservoir.
4. After that, the hose is disconnected, the working holes of the hydraulic system are closed with plugs.

Power steering hoses

The selection of a new hose is made with exact observance of the diameter, otherwise the working qualities of the hydraulic booster may change.

Then a new hose is installed, fluid is filled into the hydraulic system and the quality of the installation is checked.

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People with professional skills are able to repair the hose for the hydraulic systems of a car or a Karcher pump manually using the simplest equipment and devices. But the quality of such repairs will remain in doubt, which is highly undesirable.

It must be understood that high pressure creates an area of ​​increased risk, when a breakdown or abnormal operation of the high pressure hose can lead to serious consequences. Especially when it comes not to the Karcher pump, but to the hydraulic systems of heavy equipment. A far from complete list of such consequences looks like this:

• Shooting of fittings and dangerous burst of torn hoses;
• Fire or explosion of working fluid;
• Loss of vehicle control;
• Poisoning and burns from fluid spilled from the hoses.

To avoid this and ensure long-term and high-quality operation of the repaired pipeline, strict adherence to instructions, attentiveness and accuracy during installation work, as well as contacting specialists, if necessary, will help.