DIY display cable repair

In detail: DIY repair of a display loop from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

These multicore connections act as a movable joint for electrical boards, individual models, and other circuit assemblies.

The most common types of loop connection include:

Soldering (one of the most reliable methods, but it requires a certain technological process and equipment, overheating of circuit elements during soldering can damage them).
Various mechanical joints (clamps, inserts, etc., it is very simple to make such a connection, no additional equipment or skills are required, the disadvantages include low reliability - the cable may not fully press in, contacts oxidize over time, etc.) ...
Sticker on conductive adhesive / adhesive tape (we will dwell on this method of connecting loops in more detail).

Initially, adhesive technologies were used to mount a chip on a substrate using a special conductive paste. In this case, no soldering (that is, heating) was required, the paste solidified, providing the necessary heat dissipation and conduction of electricity.

Later, the technology was adopted to connect various kinds of displays and other digital technology nodes.

Modern conductive adhesives can be:

Isotropic. They differ in that there are no restrictions on the direction of propagation of the current inside the conductive material, the medium is homogeneous. These can be ICA (isotropic adhesives) or ICP (isotropic pastes).
Anisotropic. Inside a conductive material, the current travels only in a specific direction. This group includes ACA (anisotropic conductive adhesives) and ACF (anisotropic conductive films).

Video (click to play).

The latter are most widely used in household appliances. So, with the help of ACF you can glue the ribbon cable to the LCD TV matrix... The current will flow between the connected contacts strictly perpendicular to their surface inside the anisotropic adhesive tape.

The use of any adhesive mixture is associated with certain restrictions. Various ACF films (scotch tapes) are designed to bond certain types of materials, require compliance with temperature and humidity conditions, the absence of dust and other small particles that impede adhesion, as well as certain conditions for pressing the glued surfaces (minimum force, heating, etc.).

An important indicator of the use of ACF is the minimum required gap between the contacts (each type of film has its own).

VIDEO DESCRIPTION

Most modern boards for digital technology use a mechanical method of connecting loops, however, in some cases, anisotropic conductive films (scotch tape) or adhesives can be used.

To glue the flex cable to the board in the case of ACF, it is necessary:

Clean up any remaining compound / tape with isopropyl alcohol.
Take an anisotropic adhesive tape (for example, 3M Z-Axis 9703 is suitable, before use, be sure to make sure that the distance between the contacts does not exceed 0.4 mm, since a short circuit can be obtained with a smaller size).
Remove the first protective layer and stick the film on the board.
Remove the second protective layer from the ACF foil.
Correctly match the contacts of the ribbon cable and the contacts on the board, attach the ribbon cable and evenly press down to the surface of the board with sufficient force.

When carrying out work, it should be taken into account that there should be no dust and small particles in the air (if the sticker is made in a domestic environment, work can be carried out in the bathroom).

The technology for mounting loops with conductive adhesive tape is identical to the process of connecting a loop and a board.

Differences can only be in the materials supported (for example, Axis 9703 tape is not recommended for mounting on glass surfaces, only 5352R and 5552R films from the same manufacturer are suitable) and the minimum recommended gap between the contacts (for example, 3M Z-Axis 5552R film can be used with distance between contacts less than 100 microns).

Some conductive films or adhesives may require heat or a lot of force to be applied to the bonding surfaces during installation.

Before purchasing, it is imperative to familiarize yourself with the specification of the film / adhesive. Clarify the order of application.

It often happens that in the process of disassembling displays or other complex equipment, when unsticking the cable, excessive force is applied and it breaks.

The acquisition of such a seemingly simple element can become an almost impossible task, since you cannot find similar conductors on sale, as well as donors (broken equipment from which parts can be removed).

In this case, ACF film or glue will save the situation, regardless of the type of loop.

The procedure is as simple as connecting a ribbon cable to a board or monitor.

The damaged section of the train is cut out. For this, the conductor is completely cut at right angles in two places along the edges from the break (damaged area).
If necessary, live parts are exposed at the butted section (if the conductors are insulated in the middle of the loop) and treated with alcohol.
The first layer of the ACF protective film is removed and the tape is applied to the end of one of the tail pieces.
The second protective layer is removed and the second piece of the loop is applied.
Depending on the requirements of the film mounting technology, heating or sufficient compression force of the junction may be required (here it is important to take into account that heating is contraindicated for some types of loops, which means that the connecting film should be chosen with mounting without heating).

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

Good day, dear pikabushniki! This post will tell you one of the ways to restore a broken cable on a tablet / phone.I am slowly restoring the tablet of our beloved pikabushnitsa @Gondurasyanka, then I'll post it in a separate post. Now I'll just tell you how to fix the loop. In my case, the camera cable.I saw such a misfortune when I took apart the tablet.Upset that the train is two-sided, there is more crap than with one-sided. If it was one-sided, then just "snot" threw on the path and business. Here I had to tinker a little, it was impossible to solder using the "snot" method. The "nozzle" will fall on the lower layer, thereby closing the tracks on the upper and lower layers. There is nothing to catch here without a microscope.Are you familiar with the principle of connecting all movable elements to a printed circuit board in all modern mobile technologies? The connection of these elements is achieved using loops. During continuous use, this component may fail. How do I fix a flat cable on my phone? Users with no experience immediately panic and go looking for the nearest service center. But in a workshop, services cost quite a lot of money, and who loves unforeseen costs? This article will help those users who have basic knowledge of working with modern technology. Today we will try to repair the train by our own efforts.Modern models of mobile phones very quickly lose their former relevance, because they are being replaced by new versions of devices. Not every user is ready to give a large amount of money in order to acquire a brand new powerful smartphone. The components for such devices are not very expensive, but their installation is a rather expensive undertaking.Is it possible to repair a loop with your own hands? If you take apart your gadget, you will see that the contact pads are attached directly to the display.On the back of the case, these parts are connected to the printed circuit board in a specific sequence.Important! In order to determine the malfunction, you need to get a brand new multimeter, in which an ohmmeter will be built to measure resistance. In the same service centers, the connecting components are bent in opposite directions to identify problematic contact.If, during the diagnosis, other problems have emerged, we advise you to eliminate them at the same time. Perhaps, in this case, our other publications will be useful to you:To carry out repairs at home, you need to prepare well and find special materials and tools, such as:

Flat screwdriver.

Magnifying glass.

Needle.

Alcohol solution.

Sandpaper.

Soldering Station.

A thick layer of polyethylene.

Adhesive tape and multi-core MGTF cable.

Important! Think a few times before embarking on restoration work. All manipulations are not particularly difficult if you have ever done something like this. If there is no one hundred percent certainty of success, then we recommend that you still find a service center where qualified workers will take matters into their own hands. Image - DIY display cable repair

In order to repair the telephone cable, you need to follow these steps:

Pull out the back cover of your device and remove the battery.
Now you need to unscrew the fixing screws using a flathead screwdriver.
Remove the main PCB and the plastic cover that is under the shield. The last component is attached to double-sided tape.
Next, you need to look for a break on any of the tracks. To do this, it is worth getting rid of the insulation with a needle.

Important! Use a magnifying glass to facilitate the procedure.

We take a soldering iron in our hands and wind a piece of copper wire on its tip. A component with low power settings (somewhere between 20-25 watts) is best suited. We solder the remnants of the wire insulation.
The edge that has just been stripped must be prepared for connection to the board.

Important! If, for some reason, several conductors were damaged at once, then we repeat the last manipulation for each of them.

If you have finished with the previous point, then proceed to the soldering itself. We solder the edges to the PCB and carefully inspect the entire circuit for any gaps between the tracks.
Take a thermal film or a layer of polyethylene in your hands, wrap the edges of the soldered loop with it in at least one layer. Warm up the whole thing until you melt the film, thereby gluing it to the tape. An iron is perfect for this action, but you need to take into account that the whole procedure must be carried out with extreme caution.
It so happens that the track breaks not at the edges, but in the very center. To fix this problem, it is best to duplicate this track using pieces of wiring conductor.
Now we assemble the mobile device in reverse order and test it for operability.

Important! Also, you should know that you can make a loop yourself. To do this, you need to lay the conductors on the layer of an ordinary medical plaster.

How can I repair the telephone cable in another way? Everything is very simple.

Recovery work can be carried out as follows:

First, grind a small amount of rosin to a powder state and dissolve in an alcohol solution. Use a one-to-six proportion to create the mortar.
Now we take the good old Moment glue in our hands and glue the damaged area onto an insulated plate. Then you need to put this compound under the most common technical microscope, which everyone used in biology lessons at school.
We proceed to the removal of insulation. A scalpel or small knife can be used as a tool. We remove somewhere 1.5 mm of the wire at the break point. Next, you need to apply a little of the solution that was in the first step to the section of the tape.Use a brush to apply the mixture. After applying, touch the tip of the soldering iron to this section of the loop.
Remove the varnish with a scalpel and thoroughly lubricate this section with a solution of rosin and alcohol. Tin the conductor 25mm from its edge and carefully solder it to the outermost track of the outermost stub.

Important! For convenience, it is better to raise the wire in the middle above the damaged parts.

We bend the section of the wire, which we connect the two sides of the non-working track and bite off the excess parts that were formed during work with pliers. It remains to solder the ribbon cable to the board.
If there is a need to “build up” the loop, then use another segment of the loop with the appropriate geometric dimensions. Cut the component perpendicular to the damaged area.
We clean, connect and solder both halves. We isolate the bare sections of the wire and assemble the mobile phone in reverse order.

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using the opening tool, pry off the front frame of the monitor and carefully move it aside, while you must be as careful as possible, since there are buttons on the front panel (the data cable is soldered to the board, there is no connector);

using tweezers or just using your fingers, you need to disconnect the connector of the button block;

the shielding gasket of the monitor unit is dismantled - it is necessary to do this as carefully as possible in order to avoid damage (if there is damage to this part, a large amount of interference may occur);

under the cover are the backlight connectors - you need to carefully pry each one with a screwdriver and push it towards you.

After completing all the above actions, you can proceed directly to disconnecting the loop of the screen matrix itself. To do this, you need to use the special latches on the sides. One end of this part is connected directly to the matrix, the other to the electronic board.

it is important to preserve the original shape of the loop - do not bend it, as this can lead to breakage of the conductors;

when disconnecting from the board, it is important to do everything very carefully, without making unnecessary efforts - by pressing hard on the circuit, you can easily damage it.

When the old cable is disconnected, you need to install a new one in its place. This operation also has some peculiarities:

when connecting the connector, it is necessary to perform the “male-female” connection as carefully as possible - by pressing hard when a skew occurs, the contacts can be damaged (this will lead to the need for complex repairs);

you should make sure that the new cable will not interfere with the subsequent assembly - it is advisable to give it a shape similar to the one being replaced.

the thin conductors of the loop were subjected to mechanical stress, as a result of which they broke.

Repairing the matrix loop using a soldering station or a special hair dryer is quite complicated. That is why, if it breaks down or breaks, you can proceed as follows:

the resulting adhesive surface will serve as the basis for a special seal, on which foam rubber or similar material is glued (it will help create a strong contact in the conductors of the loop);

on top of the loop itself, double-sided tape is also glued, foam rubber is again placed on it.

The glued foam acts as a sealing cushion. This method is relatively reliable: if the monitor is not moved, then in this state it can serve for a very long time.

You can restore the matrix loop by soldering. To perform this operation, you will need the following items:

If thin conductors are damaged, you can simply solder them, it is enough just to heat the metal to a sufficiently high temperature. To get a tight connection, you should simply cut out the damaged area with scissors and ensure a sufficiently tight contact between the tracks. After that, putting the parts of the train on a special lining, you should simply heat them up, aligning the individual tracks with each other as accurately as possible.

The thickness of the conductors in some places is quite small, so you should use a magnifying glass. This item will minimize the likelihood of defects: adhesions of individual cores to each other, or, conversely, the appearance of unsoldered places.

You can also use other equipment to accomplish a similar task. It is only important that it can solder the tracks with a mother-in-law of approximately 0.06 mm as accurately as possible - this is the size of the conductors located inside the loop.

If there is oxide or carbon deposits on the plume, its individual parts, it is necessary to remove them with distilled water or pure alcohol. After performing this operation, be sure to check the voltage at the contacts with the device turned on. Or simply ring the loop with a multimeter. If there are damages in the conductors, it is necessary to determine the location of the defect as accurately as possible, and then carefully examine it under a magnifying glass.

If the conductors are long enough to solder, you can simply connect them and heat them well with an infrared soldering iron. Or heat it up with a hair dryer. After completing this operation, you must again check the presence of voltage on the contacts.

When soldering, it is necessary to observe the temperature regime as accurately as possible. To do this, determine what metal is used in a particular loop and set the desired temperature on the soldering equipment. If the melting temperature is significantly exceeded, then the metal will simply spread over the surface. This will make the repair impossible. It is important to avoid delamination of the PCB from which the board is made.

Thanks for the detailed information. But I just need to change the train. I have a question .... how much does it cost and what is the guarantee.

Hey! Everywhere a different price and guarantee, too.

Good afternoon. Can you please tell me, the LEDs in the backlight burned out on my LG 55LB650V TV (there was a power surge), I replaced them myself, but after assembling the TV, a black vertical strip appeared on the left of 1.5 cm. Maybe I damaged something? Thank you.

Hey! Perhaps I inserted the loops on the t-con board badly, or this board might be out of order. also can be damaged matrix cables.

Could it have happened from a power surge ...? And how long can a TV work like this with a strip, or should it be eliminated?

It could have been ... how long? maybe a day, maybe 5 years ...

Hello.
I am very interested in your opinion on the following situation. The Thomson T50E80DHU TV has problems with one half of the screen - the edge is blown out, the central part is darker than normal. On the same side, the slowed-down change of the picture.In this mode, it shows ripples (gray screen with no picture). If you give an image - it works for a couple of seconds, then a black screen, while the backlight works and the sound goes on.

Hey! Well ... I would look at the loops, for starters, and the t-con board.

Got it, thank you very much - we will look ...

Hello! Tell us in general terms the procedure for my situation. There is a Samsung 8 series TV with a broken matrix, and there is a simpler Samsung TV, how best to connect them until I find a suitable matrix?

Hello. I have a samsung UE40d500 TV when turned on, it shows in stripes and after half an hour it shows a blurry picture like in 3d. What can be faulty and is it worth giving for repairs, or will it be better to buy a new TV?

This may be a malfunction of the matrix, loops. If a matrix, then a new one is better.

Samsung UE32F6400AK
After switching on, vertical white-gray stripes appear, the Smart TV logo is visible, but then the image does not show at all (the lines are saved), the sound is on.
Hana matrix and there is no point in repairing? or a train?

Why, there may well be malfunctions in the matrix loops. But maybe the Khan's matrix.

I changed the capacitor of the LG Flatron L1530s monitor and during assembly I damaged the connector of the cable on the matrix, at first it bent and began to correct the broken wire. What can I do?

Recovery of loops requires a lot of experience and knowledge, so it is better to contact a specialist.

Hello Victor, after the bending of the antenna socket and opening for inspection and pressing with a finger for the initial position on the Samsung LED TV, two dark gray, very thin as a thread, horizontal lines appeared exactly in the middle at a distance of 5 mm from each other, which at the end disappear completely, their visibility is different in area, at first it is not at all visible at all at the end, flooding with water, poor contact, etc., I opened, moved the trains did not notice anything, kinks, dirt, etc. infoy only about vertical - bad contact or kink in the loop, which in my case is not, tell me your thoughts please!

I fell into my hands beautiful netbook Acer Aspire One with malfunction - periodically image disappears... In fact, after the electric run, twisting the display this way and that, it turned out that backlight disappears regardless of the position of the screen. The only thing that was achieved was that the backlight often did not turn on after exiting sleep mode. I began to sin on the sensor for closing the lid, however, magnetic sensors, as in this Acer Aspire, do not fail with a floating defect. Decided disassemble display and look at what's what. Thus was born instructions for disassembly and repair of the display cable of the netbook Acer Aspire One D260below. It is also suitable for netbooks Acer Aspire One D250 and D270.

We begin any disassembly of a netbook or laptop with removing the battery.

We start disassembling the display by removing the glued plugs near the hinges.

Under them bolts, which need unscrew... We do the same with the left side.

Then we lift the front cover near the hinges and snap off perimeter latches.

This is how it looks latch after disassembly.

To free the matrix of the netbook, you need unscrew 4 bolts.

And disconnect webcam train.

This is how it looks matrix behind.

Behind the matrix there are two black squares on the sides - this is microstrip Wi-Fi antennas.

Peel off the sticker, carefully pull out the matrix cable.

Peeling back the self-adhesive foil, we see inverter board.

From the inverter comes out plume to the bowels of the matrix itself.

On the right of the inverter, we see two variable resistors, which, as it seems to me, regulate brightness and operating mode of the inverter.

First of all, it is better to start external examination with display loop contacts... Here, as we can see, on the right is darkening and carbon deposits. Most likely, this is the reason for the disappearance of the backlight. You can check for sure simply by cleaning the contacts.First you need to take a soft eraser, cut it off at an acute angle and wipe off the carbon deposits on the contacts.

Then you need to thoroughly wipe everything with isopropyl alcohol or medical alcohol, unless of course you feel sorry for the latter ... It will also not hurt to wipe it with alcohol pins in the connector itself - but without fanaticism - everything is too small. I do not advise you to climb there with an elastic band, because pieces of elastic can remain in the connector, which is very unpleasant - poking around in the connector.

We check the display backlight after such a purgatory. If within a few hours the malfunction does not appear, then you can safely assemble the display in reverse order.

When you collect, do not forget snap the display case below the hinges.

Successful repairs. Soldering Master.

Please do not kick. As I create a topic, it may not be according to the rules. When disassembling the LiveJournal panel, it took place through negligence (or maybe already weakly held) to tear off two loops from the matrix, or rather peeled off, in the place where they were glued in the scarf. How can you restore .. how to glue? I cleaned the contacts a little. and when you press it with your palps. then everything does not work normally early. twitches constantly. I think it is necessary to press strongly along the entire length, and fix it. I ask for hints. How can you create such a thing .. what kind of glue to do?
The photo turned out to be bad ... from mobile phones, well, something can be understood

yes .. I must have cleaned it off .. now we can not stick

and what temperature is needed .. for gluing. and this anisotropic film is conductive. Is it on the contacts or is it “glued” between them?

there is no microscope .. there are lenses .. more precisely, glasses with a set of removable lenses,. you can put two at once.
lenses. 1.3X. 1.8X. 2.4X. and 3.2X like this alignment, when installing the last two. you can see pimples on an ant

INTREPID, and if it gets between the contacts. it is insoluble in alcohol. have already cleaned the place with alcohol

and zero

so it turns out this film has a conductive layer .. and a dielectric?

that's what I found .. here it is written differently;

3M Z-Axis 9703 (minimum pitch between contacts in a loop 40 micrometers or 0.04mm.) Anisotropic conductive film for sale. For aiming flexible cables to the board, glass, etc. Conducts current in one direction of the Z-Axis, which provides isolation between the contacts. Write to PM.

3M Z-Axis 5552R (min. Pitch between contacts in a loop 19 micr. Or 0.019mm) The film is used by manufacturers of LCD, plasma, etc., where flexible cables with a decoder are glued to the glass of LCDs, monitors, etc. Conducts current in one direction of the Z-Axis, which provides isolation between the contacts.

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"Who owns the information - he owns the world"

The loop itself is normal, the place of its connection with the board is bad.
Sorry for the quality of the photo, I took pictures on the tablet.

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Last edited by itur on Feb 02, 2014 10:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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"Who owns the information - he owns the world"

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Insatiable greed, penetrating into souls, deadens and burns them, cripples and dries them.

_________________
-repair of laptops according to the picture of the board
-Remove BIOS passwords at a distance
- love spell winDOвSa
-play autoBAN

Use a scalpel to clean the track on the cable, to the board, and connect with a wire. There is nothing complicated here. If vision does not allow - a microscope in hand.

Even on the bar, vias can rot.

By this method, more than a dozen TV sets were raised.

Before ordering somewhere, I highly recommend reading the conditions of transportation and storage in the datasheet, both sealed and printed.
Immediately become sad.

_________________
ACODIS - Akodis
Supply of spare parts and components for laptop repair.
Matrices
Keyboards
Cooling systems

Before ordering somewhere, I highly recommend reading the conditions of transportation and storage in the datasheet, both sealed and printed.
Immediately become sad.

About the conditions of transportation and x-injury, which I wrote about.
Read it - you will understand everything.
This film has an extremely volatile solvent and more.

_________________
ACODIS - Akodis
Supply of spare parts and components for laptop repair.
Matrices
Keyboards
Cooling systems

Printed circuit boards and moving parts of modern mobile technology are interconnected by means of flat conductors, also called stubs. In the process of active use of the device, one of these cables often breaks, and the owner of the device begins to be interested in how to restore the loop on the phone... Of course, a person who is far from technology would rather prefer to restore files deleted from the phone's memory card than to repair the device with his own hands. Our article for those who have certain technical skills will tell you how to make repairs yourself in this situation.

How can I restore the loop on my phone?

Modern mobile devices are rapidly falling out of fashion, and others are constantly replacing them. However, not every user is ready to shell out money not only for the purchase of an improved smartphone, but also for the purchase and installation of a new cable that has failed. If we disassemble the mobile device, we will see that the contacts are glued directly to the display, and in this situation we can hardly do anything. From the opposite end, the loops are connected to the board in a certain sequence.

To find a faulty conductor, use a device called an ohmmeter. At the same time, the connecting elements are carefully bent in opposite directions to reveal the "flickering" contact.

Let's talk about how to restore the loopback on the phone. For repairs, we need a set of materials and special tools, including a flat screwdriver, magnifying glass, needle, alcohol, sandpaper, soldering iron, thermal film (thick polyethylene), adhesive tape and MGTF multicore cable.

But before starting the repair, you should think about whether our knowledge and skills are enough for this undertaking. Still, this cannot be compared with the elementary deletion of Skype correspondence on the phone, perhaps it would be worth contacting the service.

Instructions for restoring the telephone loop

Remove the back cover of the device and remove the battery. After that, unscrew the fastening screws with a screwdriver. We remove the main board and the plastic cover under the screen. It is attached with 2-sided tape.

Now you can search for a break on a specific track. We remove the insulation with a needle, making it easier for ourselves to see with a magnifying glass. It is better to sharpen the needle sometimes.

We wind a piece of copper wire onto the tip of our soldering iron. It is best if we use a low power device (up to 25 watts). We solder the stripped sections of the conductor, eliminating the remnants of what was insulation. Prepare the stripped edge of the broken cable (about 1.2 millimeters) to be soldered to the main board. If several conductors are damaged, repeat the above step for each of them. Now we solder the edges to the board and check for gaps between the tracks.

We take the thermal film and wrap it at the soldered edges of the loop in 1 layer. We warm up until the moment when it starts to melt and sticks to the tape. In this case, an ordinary iron can be used. The main thing is to use it carefully and smoothly, avoiding strong pressure. If necessary, warm up the loop from the reverse side.

If the track breaks off not at the edge, but in the center, it is best to duplicate it with pieces of mounting wire. Now you can start assembling your mobile device.

Video (click to play).

We add that if the train is small, you can make it on your own.To do this, we lay and fasten the conductors on a strip of tissue medical plaster.

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DIY display cable repair

using the opening tool, pry off the front frame of the monitor and carefully move it aside, while you must be as careful as possible, since there are buttons on the front panel (the data cable is soldered to the board, there is no connector);

using tweezers or just using your fingers, you need to disconnect the connector of the button block;

the shielding gasket of the monitor unit is dismantled - it is necessary to do this as carefully as possible in order to avoid damage (if there is damage to this part, a large amount of interference may occur);

under the cover are the backlight connectors - you need to carefully pry each one with a screwdriver and push it towards you.

After completing all the above actions, you can proceed directly to disconnecting the loop of the screen matrix itself. To do this, you need to use the special latches on the sides. One end of this part is connected directly to the matrix, the other to the electronic board.

it is important to preserve the original shape of the loop - do not bend it, as this can lead to breakage of the conductors;

when disconnecting from the board, it is important to do everything very carefully, without making unnecessary efforts - by pressing hard on the circuit, you can easily damage it.

When the old cable is disconnected, you need to install a new one in its place. This operation also has some peculiarities:

when connecting the connector, it is necessary to perform the “male-female” connection as carefully as possible - by pressing hard when a skew occurs, the contacts can be damaged (this will lead to the need for complex repairs);

you should make sure that the new cable will not interfere with the subsequent assembly - it is advisable to give it a shape similar to the one being replaced.

the thin conductors of the loop were subjected to mechanical stress, as a result of which they broke.

Repairing the matrix loop using a soldering station or a special hair dryer is quite complicated. That is why, if it breaks down or breaks, you can proceed as follows:

the resulting adhesive surface will serve as the basis for a special seal, on which foam rubber or similar material is glued (it will help create a strong contact in the conductors of the loop);

on top of the loop itself, double-sided tape is also glued, foam rubber is again placed on it.

The glued foam acts as a sealing cushion. This method is relatively reliable: if the monitor is not moved, then in this state it can serve for a very long time.

You can restore the matrix loop by soldering. To perform this operation, you will need the following items:

The thickness of the conductors in some places is quite small, so you should use a magnifying glass. This item will minimize the likelihood of defects: adhesions of individual cores to each other, or, conversely, the appearance of unsoldered places.

You can also use other equipment to accomplish a similar task. It is only important that it can solder the tracks with a mother-in-law of approximately 0.06 mm as accurately as possible - this is the size of the conductors located inside the loop.

If the conductors are long enough to solder, you can simply connect them and heat them well with an infrared soldering iron. Or heat it up with a hair dryer. After completing this operation, you must again check the presence of voltage on the contacts.

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