Do-it-yourself cardan splined joint repair

In detail: do-it-yourself cardan splined joint repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

On the Internet, I stumbled upon pictures of the original solution to the problem of worn splines. In general, they carved a tube out of chloroplast or something like that, I don’t know exactly what it’s called, a tube, mom inserted it into the slot with a slight interference, and dad drove it into the slot, having lubricated everything with abundant lithol. Unfortunately, the insertion length is not specified. So, according to the author's assurances, 30 thousand hours and the flight is normal.
They sharpened the insert on a lathe from a whole piece, which, to be honest, I did not understand why, such material is sold to any kind of sheet metal of thickness and rolled into a pipe would get the same result.
Actually the question is, does anyone have experience of such a cardan backlash repair, and if so, how true is this infa?

And these pictures seen on the internet can somehow be seen or a link to them. I am sure that this is some kind of crap, because the spline wear does not go along the entire length evenly. And what does it mean Having inserted mom into the slots: confused: Did you cut the slots on the tube ?!

It turned out to be a breed for bourgeois universal joints with a plastic coating of fluoroplastic splines, it will not live there for a long time :(. It is resistant to abrasion, but does not hold pressure well.

To restore the splines, it is much more effective to weld the outer part in a circle.

An even simpler option was watching. In the auto enterprise, the slots of the Mazov cardan were tapped with a hammer on the rail. I myself also tried to fix the steering cardan. The backlash is gone, the slots are not biting, I don’t know how long it will last.

Please describe the procedure in more detail. Probably need to knock on the gimbal assembly?

Option, how to restore the cardan slots on the FROS: Put the THERMO SHRINK on the blunt slots! 😉 In several layers. Has been running for several years.

Video (click to play).

An even simpler option was watching. In the auto enterprise, the slots of the Mazovian cardan were tapped with a hammer on the rail. I myself also tried to fix the steering cardan. The backlash is gone, the slots are not biting, I don’t know how long it will last.

Yes, and they also hammered the flattened nails. D

Option, how to restore the cardan slots on the FROS: Put the THERMO SHRINK on the blunt slots! 😉 In several layers. Has been running for several years.

What is FRS? With heat shrinkage it is interesting, you have to try with a splined steering, with novya dangles.

Frosya is Frontera's Opel 😉

The slots are restored using the old old-fashioned method using electric welding.
The part of the cardan, on which the slots are inside, are scalded from above with a ring with large currents. When it cools, the cardan pipe shrinks and the backlash goes away.

welding in what place, closer to the nut, halves the cardan?

if without disassembly, then under it all the seals will simply burn out,
If you cook it in disassembled form, will the gimbal be assembled back?

welding in what place, closer to the nut, halves the cardan?

if without disassembly, then under it all the seals will simply burn out,
If you cook it in disassembled form, will the gimbal be assembled back?

Cook disassembled closer to the nut. If you overdo it, you may not be able to put it back together. You can step by step: First, one ring - check how cool it is. Then, if necessary, the next ones. I can’t say more precisely. Everything requires skill. And I very rarely do it. Yes, and my device is home-made, crazy. How much current it gives out - hell knows, but with a C or a four, it cuts metal with an electrode.

As a rule, this is done specifically on cardan joints with good backlashes.
Once we welded three rings on the ZIL-157 at once, so we had to hammer the cardan into the slots with a sledgehammer: p

welding in what place, closer to the nut, halves the cardan?

if without disassembly, then under it all the seals will simply burn out,
If you cook it in disassembled form, will the gimbal be assembled back?

Something, I think, that after several years of operation, there are already no seals there. rolleyes:;)

As a rule, this is done specifically on cardan joints with good backlashes.
Once we welded three rings on the ZIL-157 at once, so we had to hammer the cardan into the slots with a sledgehammer: p

you can, of course, practice in the front, he has been lying in the corner for a long time

But hammering in with a sledgehammer is also bad, there will be no lubrication and will erase the slots even faster, and you can overdo it, Mom, don't worry, I remember how the sour steering universal joint was torn apart by a winch.

Something, I think, that after several years of operation, there are already no seals there. rolleyes:;)
oddly enough, but the seals are still there, this is all that remains of the universal joint, the bridge crosspiece has been changed for a long time and does not cause problems, but the slots are over, and one bearing cranked in the fork at the distributor, so it’s better to buy a new one and not bathe, especially 180 000 he already

you can, of course, practice in the front, he has been lying in the corner for a long time

oddly enough, but the seals are still there, this is all that remains of the universal joint, the bridge crosspiece has been changed for a long time and does not cause problems, but the slots are over, and one bearing cranked in the fork at the distributor, so it’s better to buy a new one and not bathe, especially 180 000 he already
Exactly. On this, just, and you can practice. I also have one in stock, but with new crosses.
And at the expense of the new ones - there are a lot of reviews that they don't care for 20 thousand.

but hammering with a sledgehammer is also bad, there will be no lubrication and will erase the splines even faster,

The comrade overdid it. : p And you can find another cardan: p

I decided to try to call other cardan repair offices that are replacing slotted ones (they cut off the old ones and weld on the new ones)

As a result: in two of them I was offered slotted ones from UAZ (spare parts + work 9000-9500r). In one, the same thing, only from shnivy and at a price of 10,000 R. And two said that they could supply slotted ones from UAZ, but immediately warned about the quality of UAZ spare parts and advised to buy a cardan.
In general, I did not call any more. I made conclusions for myself.

Gentlemen, just do not be offended, but when you read your advice, your hair stands on end in one place: ai:
Turner - mills - with splines as well?: Dp:
And this is for welding and oil.
And then with a copper wire.

And we are fools, we buy slot-milling machines for this, in the heat we heat the parts with an accuracy of + -10 degrees. to get the required hardness.

All the methods described by you are pulled, at best, for temporary repairs in order to reach civilization and there to change the node to a new one.

Once again, do not be offended, but if you do not know the issue more or less professionally, you do not need to give advice.

I repeat once again - in this case, only a new cardan.

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        In a vehicle, absolutely every mechanism is important. Most of them work in dependence on each other. If a certain unit fails, serious problems with the entire car may soon begin. On machines with rear-wheel drive, an important role is played by the cardan transmission, namely its splined connection. You need to monitor its performance as closely as possible.
        
        Cardan drive - this is the name of a shaft consisting of several parts rotating relative to each other. This rotation is provided by a specialized element called a spider. The cardan's task is to transfer rotation from the power unit to the rear gearbox. The torque from the gearbox, through the axle shafts, is redirected to the wheels. The design of cardan shafts on all vehicles is identical, the difference lies only in dimensions, as well as in the shapes of individual elements. The described mechanism includes the following components:
        crosspiece;
        
        a pair of shafts - main and intermediate;
        
        support bearing;
        
        elastic type coupling;
        
        splined type connection.
        
        There are a number of points indicating that not all is well with the spline:
        
        Strong vibrations are felt directly from under the vehicle while driving. At idle, everything will be in order - the shaft runs at almost zero load.
        
        A strong play appears in the area of the spline connection.
        
        There is no lubricant in the area of the splines.
        
        A strong hum emanates from the cardan, which is not typical for any vehicle.
        
        There are many reasons for breakdowns. One of the main ones is considered to be the low quality of the road surface. A large amount of vibration occurs on the car body while driving on a bad road. The chassis is not able to fully absorb these effects. As a result, the harmful load acts on the cardan shaft and directly on the splines.
        
        The next reason is dirt. Deposits get into the spline part, which accelerates the wear of the mechanism. You can fight this phenomenon. It is enough to visit the car wash regularly and order a full car wash service. The high pressure of water removes dirt and sand.
        Insufficient lubrication on the connecting elements. In this case, the splines begin to work under high loads. The result is the development and occurrence of backlash.
        
        Normal wear and tear. The slots tend to wear off. This happens after long-term use of the vehicle. The optimum service life of a spline connection is 150-200 thousand kilometers. After reaching the limit of wear, repair work is carried out.
        
        There are no elements in the driveline that can be repaired. The outboard bearing is changed in case of wear, the same is done with the cross. When it comes to the spline element, the replacement is correct. But its cost is expensive, and not every car owner decides to take this step. Craftsmen working at dealership service stations have found a number of ways to restore worn splines. Among the expensive options, the method with chromium sputtering and cutting new splines are noted.
        
        For cars of the middle and budget classes, there is an option with the expansion of the metal and its further stretching after cooling. You will also need a welding machine.The specialist performs the work as follows:
        
        The cardan transmission is dismantled. Labels are set so that the balance is not disturbed. If there is a balancing stand at the service station, there is no need to set marks.
        
        The cardan is disassembled and cleaned. This is necessary for the further use of the welding. Three seams are welded.
        
        After scalding, the master checks for backlash in the joint.
        
        The seams are cleaned (this procedure is performed when it is not possible to use a balancing stand at the station).
        
        Lubricating fluid is pumped into the required holes under pressure.
        
        The propeller shaft is assembled and installed on the vehicle.
        
        After completing the work, the driver must drive several kilometers. If all signs of breakage have disappeared, the work is done with high quality. If beating, vibrations or other signs are present, a different repair method should be chosen.
        
        Replacement is good because completely new elements are installed, therefore, their service life is significantly increased. As already mentioned, the cost of such a service is quite high. You will also have to purchase original spare parts. Buying low-quality copies can only make matters worse.
        
        Renovation is financially beneficial. But there is a possibility that a remanufactured part may not work like new, and its service life is several times lower than that of a new part. Each driver independently determines which type of repair is suitable for his car, depending on the financial condition, as well as on the vehicle model.
        
        Any work must be carried out exclusively at a dealer service station. Only the most modern and best equipment is used here. This service employs the best craftsmen who regularly improve their skills when working with equipment and devices.
        Should not be serviced in services located in garage cooperatives. First of all, they will not give a guarantee for the work performed. Often at such stations, "masters" remove original spare parts, and put fake ones in their place. As a result, other mechanisms fail after a short run.
        
        Repairing a spline connection is a complex procedure that must be done exclusively at a dealer service. To do this, it is worth using only the best equipment that is available at the dealer station. Yes, service in a dealer service presupposes that the client has money. But every penny invested will pay off, because everything is done efficiently. A guarantee is provided for the repairs made. If the splines break or "lick off" during running-in, the service assumes all obligations to eliminate the malfunction.
        
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        Valadey Jul 20, 2007
        Hello, my cardan on the splines taps when starting off or when you drive slowly and just let go of the drywall, such a sound "Duc Duc"
        
        Can this be fixed or is it necessary to change the gimbal?
        
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        raven 20 Jul 2007
        if the kayak is tightened, in principle it cannot knock, if you really tried it with your hands and there is a backlash, change it for sure.
        
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        Valadey Jul 20, 2007
        if the kayak is tightened, in principle it cannot knock, if you really tried it with your hands and there is a backlash, change it for sure.
        
        And where is this nut, can you show it in the picture?
        
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        raven 20 Jul 2007
        the nut is healthy - collet, it is located just at the joint of the cardan shafts, where the slots are.
        
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        Yevgeniy_190 20 Jul 2007
        I also had a sound like yours) knock knock. .)) you press the brake in a traffic jam - knock. on the gas tuk. such a dull sound and right somewhere before me)
        
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        solodin Jul 21, 2007
        Hello, my cardan on the splines taps when starting off or when you drive slowly and just let go of the drywall, such a sound "Duc Duc"
        
        Can this be fixed or is it necessary to change the gimbal?
        
        SURE? Did you look at the crosses? Schaub slots got hold of - I do not remember.
        
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        Valadey 23 Jul 2007
        SURE? Did you look at the crosses? Schaub slots got hold of - I do not remember.
        
        The craftsmen told me that the cardan knocks on the slot, they say this problem for many Merci, they say it's okay. But I'm not pleased, tyn tyn
        
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        solodin 23 Jul 2007
        The craftsmen told me that the cardan knocks on the slot, they say this problem for many Merci, they say it's okay. But I'm not pleased, tyn tyn
        
        So I say - I don't remember this
        
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        300e24 24 Jul 2007
        I have the same crap! the masters say that the slots.
        
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        Stalker Jul 24, 2007
        Similar bullshit. Someone advised to remove the universal joint and drive this nut along the thread. At the service they say that tightening the nut will do nothing.
        
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        Valadey Jul 24, 2007
        [quote name = ’Stalker’ date = ’24 .7.2007, 12:15 ′ post = ’206805 ′]
        Similar bullshit. Someone advised to remove the universal joint and drive this nut along the thread. At the service they say that tightening the nut will do nothing.
        
        Damn and what to do, is it possible to buy a new gimbal and then balance it and suffer other garbage?
        
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        SCHUMINATOR 25 Jul 2007
        The same garbage, the current I still have it rings unpleasantly on irregularities, not solid. One mechanic suggested driving more lubricant there to compensate for wear, he says the blows will be less
        
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        Valadey 25 Jul 2007
        The same garbage, the current I still have it rings unpleasantly on irregularities, not solid. One mechanic suggested driving more lubricant there to compensate for wear, he says the blows will be less
        
        Now, although when I bought the motor I did not notice it, they probably zaherachil smacks, then he began to knock a little and right now, as if already with a ringing!
        
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        Pavel 038 25 Jul 2007
        The same W202 C 180 96 onwards the cardan rang in the spline connection in the service checked the backlash is evident
        stuffed until the grease is thick, like the second day does not ring, the gears turn on softer, if I start to ring again, I will look for a used one
        
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        kit123 27 Jul 2007
        Hello, my cardan on the splines taps when starting off or when you drive slowly and just let go of the drywall, such a sound "Duc Duc"
        
        Can this be fixed or is it necessary to change the gimbal?
        
        The crosses give a little backlash to the lover, but they do not ring.
        I had a ringing on the old cardan due to a poorly tightened nut. It was impossible to do this by car. I also thought the splines were broken. He took off the gimbal, put it on the floor and began to pull the nut as much as possible. I tighten, but the backlash remains. I already wanted to throw it out, but did the following:
        He took the back part out of the collet, unscrewed the nut and cleaned all the threads. Then he smeared the entire thread with copper grease and let's drive the nut until it stops, so that the jaws of the collet converge. So I developed everything that I collect the cardan, I tighten the nut by hand and it hangs without falling out.
        
        If in the front part tightened by a nut without an inserted rear part, it cannot be inserted into the rear part by any effort, then the collet is compressed well and will hold.
        
        Let me remind you that the force for tightening the universal joint nut is 4 kg. His probably tightened all 6 kg.
        The reason for the clacking collet is that the former masters do not pull the nut of a nichrome. The thread rusts and it becomes unrealistic to tighten it under the machine. It's my opinion.
        
        Post has been edited kit123: 27 July 2007 - 01:21
        
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        Pavel 038 13 Sep 2007
        It looks like the lubricant has successfully liquidated which is to be expected, until it rings, but the knocking when switching and starting off
        If I had a collet and a nut, I would have tried to tighten it at least, but no, the back part is simply inserted into the front on the slots, it seems after 95 onwards. without collet are completed.
        Along the way, the replacement is not with sunburns, although my serviceman says forget it and drive such slots, it will not crank up, but I think
        driving a Mercedes and ringing like a canning can is also not an option
        Anyone who has any thoughts on this, maybe there are some repair methods (electroplating, for example, dip the spline shaft in an electroplating bath and deposit chrome nickel or some other crap on it, purely theoretically)
        The price of a new one immediately pushes to look for ways to repair or used
        
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        kvs 14 Sep 2007
        Overhaul of the cardan shaft with a guarantee. Balancing. Change the fund of cardan shafts and new ones in stock.
        8 496 263 81 25
        
        kvs I'm sorry, but in "repair and maintenance" we discuss how to fix it, and on our own.
        Workshops and services are discussed in the corresponding thread. But advertising is prohibited there.
        To place advertisements, please contact the site administration:
        mp; CODE = leaders
        ZoMer.
        Good luck !
        
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        Andrey-Kot 08 Feb 2017
        Hello, my cardan on the splines is tapping when starting off or when you drive slowly and just let go of the drywall, such a sound “Duc Duc” Can this be fixed or is it necessary to change the cardan? And the front pillows on the stretcher did not look. And then knock knock when they pi. Ts.
        
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        Dr. Rome 08 Feb 2017
        And the front pillows on the stretcher did not look. And then knock knock when they pi. Ts.
        
        The spline connection allows the shaft to move along the axis during rotation, and it is obvious that if the spline part fails, you should not expect comfortable and safe operation from the car. Let's consider what problems there are, how to identify them and what constitutes a repair of the splined part of the cardan.
        
        Splined joints are divided into movable and fixed. Moving vehicles experience significant loads, which leads to wear. If, at the same time, it is not enough to follow the car well, forget about regular preventive maintenance - lubrication, checking the oil seal for leaks, then you may also encounter too rapid wear of the splines.
        
        To fix a problem, you first need to identify it. The spline connection serves a quite solid period (on average 30-50 thousand kilometers), without causing concern for a long time, but not a single detail is eternal, and diagnostics should be carried out if:
        
        while driving, unnecessary noises, knocks, unpleasant sounds are heard;
        
        there are jerks, vibrations in the cardan;
        
        when all-wheel drive is on, the steering wheel beats;
        
        the play of the steering wheel has increased.
        
        Worn splines will sooner or later completely disable the cardan transmission, which can lead to adverse consequences and even an accident. To avoid this, it is necessary to get a high-quality repair of the splined universal joint in time.
        
        Problems with spline connections include the following:
        
        spline wear on the shafts;
        
        crushing of spare parts;
        
        the appearance of sharp edges, the presence of other defects: nicks, burrs;
        
        wear of the splines in the bushing;
        
        breakage of individual teeth.
        
        After problems have been discovered, it is not worth delaying their elimination and it is better to entrust this procedure to experienced craftsmen.
        
        Someone will say that there is no need
        change everything if it can be repaired; and vice versa, that the repair of the cardan splines does not make sense or is impossible - but there is no universal answer, it all depends on the circumstances. Usually it makes no sense to bother with repairing splines on small rollers; in such a situation, any workshop will advise you to replace the part with a new one. Sometimes, with a worn splined joint, you need to replace the cardan. When it comes to time consuming parts that are expensive or difficult to obtain, renovation work is preferable.
        First of all, dismantle the mechanism, then disconnect the slots, thoroughly clean them, degrease the surface before further actions.
        
        There are several repair options within a car service:
        
        After restoration, the part is thoroughly checked, tests are carried out, after which you can install it back.
        
        If the surface of the parts has defects, for example, burrs or sharp edges, then filing is performed, and chamfers are removed from the ends.
        
        A necessary moment after the completion of the repair work is the balancing of the propeller shaft, which is best entrusted to specialists.
        
        Replacing a splined universal joint and especially the restoration of splined joints is not an easy task and requires extreme accuracy so that the balance is not disturbed and the mechanism subsequently works properly. When the problem has already been identified, do not postpone a visit to the auto repair shop - this will not only prevent subsequent inevitable breakdowns, but also make driving safe again.
        
        Steering aside, all other cardan joints used in the car are designed to transfer torque between the main transmission units. But the distance between the latter when driving on an uneven road, entering corners, as well as during loading and unloading a car is forced to change. In addition, after a certain period, even in a calm state, this distance is different than on a brand new car, plus sometimes the owner puts other units instead of the standard ones. To solve this problem with the variability of lengths helps propeller shaft spline, one of the most interesting, but rather difficult sections ...
        
        Where can you meet
        
        The classic scheme with a one-section universal joint implies the presence of a splined one in a single place - at one of the ends of the pipe. An all-metal tip with external (or hollow sleeve with internal) slots is pressed into it, and then welded. A fork is put on (or pushed in, depending on the scheme) there, the shank of which is made in the same way to create a ready-made bushing-tip pair.
        
        This type of conjugation allows the components to move along the axis, responding to actions of the compression-extension type, but excludes twisting when a force is applied to twisting. In simple terms, despite the fact that the fork can slide (for which it is called sliding), torque will still be transmitted. For the sliding to be "comfortable" the splines must be abundantly lubricated. Depending on the design, the grease can be filled for life or replenished by means of grease fittings built into the body.
        
        In some cases (usually when it comes to two-piece gears where there is more than one moving element), a special bolt with a lock plate is used. It fixes the connection in one position, but leaves it potentially dynamic - if necessary, you can independently change the static parameters. By the way, a fork will not always be used here, variations with flanges are also practiced.
        
        In some cars, you can find another slotted one, for example, at a checkpoint. The principle, purpose and "participants" remain the same, but this "union" is only half cardan. Its essence is that the shank of the secondary shaft of the gearbox has a splined thread and is "hidden" in the casing of the box extension. It includes the fork shank-sleeve, which replaces the more familiar flange-fork in this place. Again, the essence of the work does not change from the rearrangement of our "terms" - to compensate for changes in distances caused by deformations of the suspension and frame.
        
        Features and problems
        
        When such a decision is implemented, a certain "conflict of interest" arises. It is vital to ensure longitudinal freedom of movement while at the same time ensuring sufficient tightness for lateral engagement. It is one hundred percent impossible to do this for each point, you simply have to minimize the difference between the width of the slot and the groove opposed to it, and minimize friction as much as possible.
        
        As a result propeller shaft spline gets all the problems typical for such building blocks:
        
        - the constant need for "correct" lubrication and wear of the splines when it is insufficient or dirty;
        
        - increased torsional stress, aggravated by impacts, which causes the destruction of structural elements;
        
        - the appearance of backlash in both cases, a decrease in performance and an imbalance of the entire unit over time.
        
        And the worst of all is that if the necessary parameters are lost, it is almost impossible to do with replacing only the flange or plug, and replacing the tip or contact shaft of the unit is not only a serious financial expense, but also a very complex and not fast process.
        
        Yes, quite recently they brought to mind the once developed, but then curtailed restoration project by electrospark alloying of corrosive areas and the application of a special metal polymer. But for now, it is also quite expensive, it is possible only in the early stages, and for heavy trucks, its effectiveness is questionable in principle. In addition, it is generally impossible to carry out such repairs in artisanal conditions, and due to the novelty of the method, only some services are able to offer this service. Therefore, it is worth taking care to preserve the working qualities of a regular unit for as long as possible.
        
        Service
        
        With regard to the splined one, the car owner (driver or mechanic) does not have so many opportunities, and therefore responsibilities:
        
        It is necessary to regularly lubricate the connection (put grease) at the intervals indicated in the card or even more often if the equipment is used very intensively, that is, as the oil is consumed
        
        When carrying out lubrication work, only materials recommended by the manufacturer may be used.
        
        The integrity of the seals (cuffs, oil seals) should be checked as often as possible; if they are damaged, replace them immediately
        
        A regular check of the condition of the components is mandatory - as already mentioned, restoration is still possible in the early stages of destruction
        
        If disassembly has been carried out, the gimbal must be balanced before installing it back.
        
        And in general, maintaining all the other transmission parts in proper condition is also one of the ways to keep the spline connection in order, because here, as in the body - they injured the ankle - the load on the knee increased many times over. And the fact that it is worth using only high-quality components, everyone knows without reminders.
        
        You can buy these, for example, in our online store "Leader". All presented goods are checked by specialized services and certified in Russia, the prices are pleasant, and the buyer will enjoy additional pleasures, such as discounts on wholesale, provision of deferrals and freedom in choosing a payment method (cash, bank transfer). We also organize (if necessary, you can pick up the purchase yourself) delivery in Moscow, the region and by transport companies to the regions.
        
        The cardan is an important element of the transmission of many car models. Its task is to transfer torque from the “transfer case” (gearbox) to the axle gearboxes. Structurally, this element is very simple, which allows motorists to replace it or make minor repairs with their own hands.
        
        The driveshaft contains the following units: the shaft itself, crosses (usually there are two of them), fasteners (the same outboard bearing), seals, a fork and other devices (here a lot depends on the car model). The number of sections in the cardan can vary (from one or more). Weight and dimensions often depend on the type of vehicle.
        
        One of the main elements of the universal joint is the crosspiece. It is thanks to her that two mating shafts can rotate with an angle varying relative to each other. The optimal rotation angle is from 0 to 20 degrees. It is in this range that the maximum efficiency is ensured. If the angle is set incorrectly, then the cross is heavily overloaded, vibration, imbalance, and noise occur.
        
        It is impossible not to mention two more important knots of the gimbal:
        
        - sliding spline connection of the gearbox. Provides "stretching" of the propeller shaft in case of overcoming an obstacle, when the suspension of the machine can also "stretch" in height. Without this element, the deformation of the cardan, box or gearbox would be a matter of time;
        
        - outboard bearing.Its task is to hold the compound shaft and not create additional obstacles for it during rotation. But there is one caveat: the more sections, the more such bearings can be.
        
        Every motorist should drive a car onto an overpass from time to time and diagnose a cardan. Otherwise, “surprises” in the form of unnecessary noise or “clinking” of the cross-piece can be caught at the most inopportune moment. Let's look at what possible breakdowns of the driveshaft and how to fix them:
        
        - the fastening bolts of the “box” coupling or flanges are loosened. Just tighten the connections to the right moment;
        
        - there is a large gap (over the norm) in the spline part. Remove the cardan, replace the necessary elements or the shaft itself completely;
        
        - the clearance in the crosspiece (more precisely, its bearings) has increased. Buy and install a new node;
        
        - the cardan is deformed (there are obvious bends). Change deformed elements or shaft completely;
        
        - the technology for installing the cardan has not been observed (regarding special marks). Install the shaft correctly;
        
        - there are obvious problems with the cardan balance. Carry out balancing work on a special stand. If restoration of the shaft is needed, do it;
        
        - the sleeve of the industrial coupling flange or the shaft ring is worn out or destroyed. Replace damaged parts. If the bushing is worn out, put a new one together with the flange;
        
        - large clearance in the outboard bearing. In this case, you need to remove the universal joint, install a new intermediate support and change the bearing;
        
        - the suspension support is damaged (destroyed). Buy a new part and install it;
        
        - there is no lubricant in the shaft splines. Eliminate the problem (use Fiol-2U);
        
        - the stuffing box seal in the bearings of the “box” crosspiece is clearly destroyed. Buy new parts and make replacements.
        
        Replacing the propeller shaft or a number of its other elements is performed according to the following algorithm:
        
        - prepare everything you need for work. Here you will need a screwdriver, a hammer, pliers (we are talking about a tool for dismantling retaining rings), an aluminum guide (you can take a copper one), keys (most often you need three - for "12", "13" and "27");
        
        - immediately set marks at the joints of the shaft and on all its elements (and most importantly - at the junction with the axle shank). Flags can be made with a chisel or paint. This will eliminate assembly errors. It is no secret that in case of improper installation, already after installing the cardan, strong vibrations and failure of the main shaft assemblies may occur;
        
        - remove the gimbal. Take the key "13" and twist the bolts tightening the transverse support and the outboard bearing. Now go to the nuts that secure the shaft to the bridge;
        
        - first replace the crosspiece. To do this, pull out the retaining rings with pliers. Now place the gimbal so that the cross is suspended;
        
        - now you need a hammer and mandrel. With their help, carefully knock out the cup of the cross;
        
        - turn the gimbal 180 degrees and take out the knocked-out cup. Knock out the next one immediately;
        
        - if you are not going to change the cardan, then it is advisable to clean the eyes of the old shaft well, completely removing the existing manifestations of corrosion and dirt. Please note that it is advisable to perfectly clean all the grooves in which the retaining rings will stand;
        
        - pull out two cups from the new cross and insert them into the lugs. Now, carefully, so as not to lose the needles, put on a cup;
        
        - tap the latter until the groove for the ring is visible. Place the ring in the groove and turn the gimbal;
        
        - now also carefully slide the cross in the direction of the cup and put it on according to the same principle as in the previous paragraph. Install the retaining ring. Please note that putting the last cup is a little more difficult, so you will have to suffer;
        
        - when the outboard bearing is out of order - change it.
        
        After removing the cross, insert the spline edge of the shaft into the coupling flange, and then - twist the fastening nut of the hinge yoke and the front shaft (here the key for "27" will come in handy);
        
        - take a puller and pull off the hinge fork. Then there is very little left - to remove the outboard bearing itself. There are two ways here - knock it down with a hammer or cut the outer part of the ring, and then use a puller;
        
        - if it is necessary to replace the cardan assembly - do it (everything is even simpler here);
        
        - put everything in place in reverse order, taking into account the marks. When installing a new gimbal, you may need to do additional balancing.