Do-it-yourself cardan spline repair

In detail: do-it-yourself cardan spline repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

On the Internet, I accidentally stumbled upon pictures of the original solution to the problem of worn splines. In general, they carved a tube out of a chloroplast or something, white, I don’t know exactly what it’s called, a tube, inserted mom into the slots with a slight tightness and hammered the dad’s slots into it beforehand, after lubricating it with plenty of lithol. Unfortunately, the thickness of the insert is not specified. So, according to the author, 30 thousand and the flight is normal.
They sharpened the insert on a lathe from a single piece, which, to be honest, I didn’t understand why, such material is sold and sheet of whatever thickness you like and turning into a pipe would get the same result.
Actually the question is, does anyone have experience with such a cardan backlash repair, and if so, how true is this infa?

And these pictures seen on the Internet can somehow be seen or a link to them. I’m sure that this is some kind of crap, because the spline wear does not go along the entire length evenly.

It turned out to be a breed for bourgeois cardans with a plastic coating of fluoroplast slots, it will not live there for a long time :(. It is resistant to abrasion, but does not hold pressure well.

To restore the splines, it is much more effective to scald the outer part in a circle.

Even easier option observed. In the auto enterprise, the splines of the Mazov cardan were tapped with a hammer on the rail. I also tried to fix the steering cardan. The backlash is gone, the slots do not bite, I don’t know how long it will last.

Describe the procedure in more detail. Probably need to knock on the cardan assembly?

A variant of how the cardan splines are restored on Frosyas: HEAT-SHRINK is put on the splines of the blunt! 😉 In several layers. Walking for several years.

Video (click to play).

Yes, and they also hammered flattened nails. D

A variant of how the cardan splines are restored on Frosyas: HEAT-SHRINK is put on the splines of the blunt! 😉 In several layers. Walking for several years.

What is Frosya? It’s interesting with heat shrink, you need to try with a slotted steering wheel, it hangs with new ones.

Frosya is Opel Frontera 😉

The splines are restored in the old-fashioned way using electric welding.
The part of the cardan, on which the slots are inside, is scalded from above with a ring with large currents. When cooling, the cardan pipe shrinks and the backlash goes away.

welding in what place, closer to the nut, to split the cardan in half?

if without disassembly, then under it all the seals will simply burn out,
if you cook it disassembled, will the cardan be assembled back?

welding in what place, closer to the nut, to split the cardan in half?

if without disassembly, then under it all the seals will simply burn out,
if you cook it disassembled, will the cardan be assembled back?

Cooked disassembled closer to the nut. If you overdo it, you might not get it back. It can be done in stages: First, one ring - how cool to check. Then, if necessary, the next. I can't say exactly. Everything needs skill. And I very rarely do it. Yes, and the device I have is homemade-rabid. How much current it gives out - hell knows, but it cuts metal with a three or four electrode.

As a rule, this is already done specifically on cardans with good backlash.
Once we welded three rings on the ZIL-157 at once, so we had to drive the cardan into the slots with a sledgehammer: p

welding in what place, closer to the nut, to split the cardan in half?

if without disassembly, then under it all the seals will simply burn out,
if you cook it disassembled, will the cardan be assembled back?

Something, I think that after several years of operation, there are already no seals. rolleyes:;)

As a rule, this is already done specifically on cardans with good backlash.
Once we welded three rings on the ZIL-157 at once, so we had to drive the cardan into the slots with a sledgehammer: p

you can, of course, train in the front, he has been lying in the corner for a long time

but hammering with a sledgehammer is also bad, there will be no lubrication and it will erase the slots even faster, and you can overdo it, mom don’t worry, I remember how the sour steering cardan tore it with a winch.

Something, I think that after several years of operation, there are already no seals. rolleyes:;)
oddly enough, but there are still seals, this is all that is left of the cardan, the bridge cross has been changed for a long time and does not cause problems, but the splines are over, and one bearing turned in the fork at the transfer case, so it’s better to buy a new one and not bathe, especially 180 000 him already

you can, of course, train in the front, he has been lying in the corner for a long time

oddly enough, but there are still seals, this is all that is left of the cardan, the bridge cross has been changed for a long time and does not cause problems, but the splines are over, and one bearing turned in the fork at the transfer case, so it’s better to buy a new one and not bathe, especially 180 000 him already
Exactly. On this, just, and you can practice. I have in stock, too, this one, but with new crosses.
And at the expense of new ones, there are a lot of reviews that they don’t even care for 20 thousand.

but hammering with a sledgehammer is also bad, there will be no lubrication and it will erase the slots even faster,

Comrade overdid it. :p And you will find another cardan horseradish :p

I decided to try to call other cardan repair offices that are replacing splined ones (they cut off the old ones and weld new ones)

As a result: in two of them I was offered splined from UAZ (spare parts + work 9000-9500r). In one, the same thing, only from shnivy and at a price of 10000 R. And two said that they could supply spline ones from UAZ, but they immediately warned about the quality of UAZ spare parts and advised me to buy a cardan.
In general, I didn’t call anymore. I made conclusions for myself.

Gentlemen, just don't be offended, but when you read your advice, your hair stands on end in one place: ai:
Turner - milling - but also splines?:dp:
And this is for welding and oil.
And then copper wire.

And we are fools, we buy slot-milling machines for this, we heat the parts in a thermal tank with an accuracy of + -10 degrees. to get the desired hardness.

All the methods you described are at best for temporary repairs in order to reach civilization and change the node to a new one there.

Once again, do not be offended, but if you do not own the issue more or less professionally, you do not need to give advice.

I repeat once again - in this case, only a new cardan.

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        Message alex73. » Sep 03, 2014, 20:44
        
        In a vehicle, absolutely every mechanism is important. Most of them work depending on each other. If a certain node fails, serious problems with the entire car may soon begin. On machines with rear-wheel drive, an important role is played by the driveline, namely its spline connection. Its performance must be monitored with the utmost care.
        
        Cardan gear - this is the name of a shaft, consisting of several parts rotating relative to each other. Such rotation is provided by a specialized element called a cross. The task of the cardan is to transfer rotation from the power unit to the rear gearbox. Torque from the gearbox, through the axle shafts, is redirected to the wheels. The design of cardans on all vehicles is identical, the difference is only in dimensions, as well as in the shapes of individual elements. The described mechanism includes the following components:
        cross;
        
        a pair of shafts - main and intermediate;
        
        thrust bearing;
        
        elastic type coupling;
        
        spline type connection.
        
        There are a number of points indicating that not everything is fine with the splined part:
        
        Strong vibrations are felt coming directly from under the vehicle while driving. At idle, everything will be in order - the shaft works at almost zero load.
        
        There is a strong backlash in the area of the spline connection.
        
        There is no lubricant in the area of the splines.
        
        A strong hum comes from the cardan, which is not characteristic of any vehicle.
        
        There are many reasons for breakdowns. One of the main ones is considered to be the low quality of the road surface. The body of the car while driving on a bad road has a large amount of vibration. The chassis is not able to dampen these effects to the fullest. As a result, the harmful load affects the cardan and directly on the splines.
        
        The next reason is dirt. Deposits get into the splined part, which accelerates the wear of the mechanism. It is possible to deal with such a phenomenon. It is enough to visit a car wash regularly and order a full car wash service. Dirt and sand are removed under high water pressure.
        Not enough lubrication on the connecting elements. In this case, the slots begin to work under high loads. The result is the development and occurrence of backlash.
        
        Natural wear. The stitches tend to wear off. This occurs after a long period of use of the vehicle. The optimal service life of the spline connection is 150-200 thousand kilometers. After reaching the wear limit, repair work is carried out.
        
        There are no elements in the cardan transmission that are being repaired. The outboard bearing is changed in case of wear, the same is done with the cross. When it comes to the spline element, replace it correctly. But its cost is expensive, and not every car owner decides to take this step. Craftsmen working at dealer service stations have found a number of ways to restore worn splines. Among the expensive options, a method with chromium sputtering and cutting new slots is noted.
        
        For cars of the middle and budget classes, there is an option with the expansion of the metal and its further stretching after cooling. You will also need a welding machine.The specialist performs the work as follows:
        
        The cardan gear is dismantled. Labels are set so that the balance is not disturbed. If there is a balancing stand at the service station, there is no need to install labels.
        
        The cardan is disassembled and cleaned. This is necessary for the further use of welding. Three seams are welded.
        
        After scalding, the master checks for backlash in the connection.
        
        The seams are cleaned (this procedure is performed when it is not possible to use a balancing stand at the station).
        
        A lubricating fluid is pumped into the necessary holes under pressure.
        
        The cardan shaft is assembled and installed on the vehicle.
        
        After the work has been completed, the driver must drive several kilometers. If all signs of damage have disappeared, the work was done efficiently. If beating, vibrations or other signs are present, another repair method should be chosen.
        
        Replacement is good because completely new elements are installed, therefore, their service life is significantly increased. As already mentioned, the cost of such a service is quite high. You will also have to purchase original spare parts. Buying low-quality copies can only make matters worse.
        
        Repairs are financially beneficial. But there is a possibility that the restored part may not work like new, and its service life is several times lower than that of a new part. Each driver independently determines what type of repair is suitable for his car, depending on the financial condition, as well as on the model of the vehicle.
        
        Any work must be carried out exclusively at a dealer service station. Only the most modern and best equipment is used here. This service employs the best craftsmen who regularly improve their skills when working with equipment and devices.
        It should not be serviced in services located in garage cooperatives. First of all, they will not give a guarantee for the work performed. Often at such stations, “masters” remove original spare parts, and put fake ones in their place. As a result, other mechanisms fail after a short mileage.
        
        Repairing a splined joint is a complex procedure that must be done exclusively in a dealer service. To do this, you should use only the best equipment that is available at the dealer station. Yes, servicing in a dealer service requires the client to have money. But every penny invested will justify itself, because everything is done with high quality. Repairs are guaranteed. In the event that the splines are torn off or “licked off” during the break-in, the service assumes all obligations to eliminate the malfunction.
        
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        Valadey 20 Jul 2007
        Hello, my cardan on the slots taps when starting off or when you eat slowly and just let go of the shit, such a sound “duc duc”
        
        Can this be fixed or do I need to change the cardan shaft?
        
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        raven Jul 20, 2007
        if the kaika is tightened, it can’t knock in principle, if you really tried it with your hands and there is a backlash, change it for sure.
        
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        Valadey 20 Jul 2007
        if the kaika is tightened, it can’t knock in principle, if you really tried it with your hands and there is a backlash, change it for sure.
        
        Where is this nut, can you show in the picture?
        
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        raven Jul 20, 2007
        a healthy nut - a collet, is located just at the joint of the cardans, where the slots are.
        
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        Yevgeniy_190 20 Jul 2007
        I also got a sound like yours) knock-knock. .)) you press the brake in a traffic jam - knock. on the gas here. such a dull sound and right somewhere in front of me)
        
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        solodin 21 Jul 2007
        Hello, my cardan on the slots taps when starting off or when you eat slowly and just let go of the shit, such a sound “duc duc”
        
        Can this be fixed or do I need to change the cardan shaft?
        
        SURE? Did you look at crosses? Schaub slots got it - I don't remember.
        
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        Valadey 23 Jul 2007
        SURE? Did you look at crosses? Schaub slots got it - I don't remember.
        
        The masters told me that the cardan is tapping on the spline, they say this is a problem for many Mercs, they say it’s okay. But I'm not pleased, tyn tyn
        
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        solodin Jul 23, 2007
        The masters told me that the cardan is tapping on the spline, they say this is a problem for many Mercs, they say it’s okay. But I'm not pleased, tyn tyn
        
        That's what I'm saying - I don't remember this
        
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        300e24 24 Jul 2007
        I have the same crap! masters say that slots.
        
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        Stalker 24 Jul 2007
        Similar bullshit. Someone advised to remove the cardan and drive this nut through the thread. The dealer says that tightening the nut won't do anything.
        
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        Valadey 24 Jul 2007
        [quote name='Stalker' date='7/24/2007, 12:15′ post='206805′]
        Similar bullshit. Someone advised to remove the cardan and drive this nut through the thread. The dealer says that tightening the nut won't do anything.
        
        Damn, and what to do, is it really possible to buy a new cardan then balance it and suffer other garbage?
        
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        SCHUMINATOR 25 Jul 2007
        The same garbage, but I still have it ringing unpleasantly on bumps, not solid. One mechanic suggested putting more grease in there to compensate for wear, he says the blows will be smaller
        
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        Valadey 25 Jul 2007
        The same garbage, but I still have it ringing unpleasantly on bumps, not solid. One mechanic suggested putting more grease in there to compensate for wear, he says the blows will be smaller
        
        Well, although when I bought the motor, I didn’t notice this, probably the masks were put into it, then it began to knock a little, but right now it seems to be already ringing!
        
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        Pavel 038 25 Jul 2007
        The same W202 C 180 96 the cardan rang in the spline connection in the service they checked the backlash is obvious
        stuffed with thick grease until the second day, the gears don’t ring softly, if it rings again I’ll look for a used one
        
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        kit123 27 Jul 2007
        Hello, my cardan on the slots taps when starting off or when you eat slowly and just let go of the shit, such a sound “duc duc”
        
        Can this be fixed or do I need to change the cardan shaft?
        
        The crosses play a little to their liking, but there is no ringing from them.
        I had a ringing on the old cardan due to a poorly tightened nut. It was impossible to do this by car. I also thought that the slots were broken. He took off the cardan, put it on the floor and began to pull the nut with all his might. I tighten it, but the backlash remains. I wanted to throw it away, but did the following:
        He took out the back of the collet, unscrewed the nut and cleaned all the threads. Then I smeared the entire thread with copper grease and let's drive the nut all the way so that the jaws at the collet converge. So I developed everything that I assemble the cardan, tighten the nut with my hand and it hangs without falling out.
        
        If the front part tightened with a nut without the back part inserted, it, the back part, cannot be inserted by any effort, then the collet is compressed well and will hold.
        
        Let me remind you that the force for tightening the cardan nut is 4 kg. His probably tightened all 6 kg.
        The reason for the clinking collet is that the former masters do not pull the nichrome nut. The thread rusts and it becomes unrealistic to tighten it under the car. It's my opinion.
        
        Post has been edited by kit123: 27 July 2007 – 01:21
        
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        Pavel 038 13 Sep 2007
        It looks like the lubricant has successfully liquidated itself, which was to be expected, until it rings, but there is a knock when switching and starting off
        If there was a collet and a nut, I would try to at least tighten it, but no, the back part is simply inserted into the front part on the slots, it seems after 95 onwards. without a collet are completed.
        In the course of the replacement, it’s not tanning, although my serviceman says forget it and drive such slots, it won’t turn up, but I think
        driving a Mercedes and ringing like a tin can is also not an option
        Who has any thoughts on this, maybe there are some repair methods (electroplating, for example, dip the splined shaft into a galvanic bath and deposit chrome nickel or some other crap on it, purely theoretically)
        The price of a new one immediately pushes you to look for ways to repair or used
        
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        kvs 14 Sep 2007
        Overhaul of the cardan shaft with a guarantee. Balancing. Replacement cardan shaft fund and new ones in stock.
        8 496 263 81 25
        
        kvs sorry, but in “repair and maintenance” we discuss how to fix it, and on our own.
        Workshops and services are discussed in the appropriate thread. But advertising is prohibited there.
        To advertise, please contact the site administration:
        mp;CODE=leaders
        Zomer.
        Good luck !
        
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        Andrey-Kot 08 Feb 2017
        Hello, my cardan on the splines taps when starting off or when you drive slowly and just let go of the shit, such a sound “duc so” Can this be fixed or do I need to change the cardan? And the front pillows on the stretcher did not look. And then knock knock when they pi. C .
        
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        Dr. Rome 08 Feb 2017
        And the front pillows on the stretcher did not look. And then knock knock when they pi. C .
        
        The spline connection allows the shaft to move along the axis during rotation, and it is obvious that if the spline part fails, you should not expect comfortable and safe operation from the car. Let's consider what problems there are, how to identify them, and what is the repair of the splined part of the cardan.
        
        Slotted joints are divided into movable and fixed. Movables experience significant loads, which leads to wear. If at the same time it is not enough to monitor the car well, forget about regular preventive maintenance - lubrication, checking the tightness of the oil seal, then you may also encounter too rapid wear of the splines.
        
        To fix a problem, it must first be identified. The spline connection serves quite a solid period (on average 30-50 thousand kilometers), without causing concern for a long time, but not a single detail lasts forever, and diagnostics should be carried out if:
        
        during movement, extra noises, knocks, unpleasant sounds are heard;
        
        there are jerks, vibrations in the cardan;
        
        when all-wheel drive is on, there is a beating of the steering wheel;
        
        steering wheel play increased.
        
        Worn splines will sooner or later completely disable the driveline, which can lead to adverse consequences and even an accident. To avoid this, it is necessary to get a quality repair of the spline cardan in time.
        
        Problems with splined connections can occur as follows:
        
        spline wear on the shafts;
        
        crushing spare parts;
        
        the appearance of sharp edges, the presence of other defects: nicks, burrs;
        
        wear of splines in the sleeve;
        
        breakage of individual teeth.
        
        After problems have been discovered, it is not worth delaying their elimination and it is better to entrust this procedure to experienced craftsmen.
        
        Someone will say that there is no need
        change everything if it can be repaired; and vice versa, that the repair of cardan splines does not make sense or is impossible - but there is no universal answer, it all depends on the circumstances. Usually it does not make sense to mess with the repair of splines on small rollers, in such a situation in any workshop it will be advised to replace the part with a new one. Sometimes, with a worn spline connection, a cardan replacement is needed. When it comes to labor-intensive parts that are expensive or difficult to obtain, repair work seems to be more preferable.
        First of all, the mechanism is dismantled, then the splines are disconnected, they are thoroughly cleaned, and the surface is degreased before further actions.
        
        There are several repair options within the car service:
        
        After restoration, the part undergoes a thorough check, tests are carried out, after which it can be installed back.
        
        If the surface of the parts has defects, such as burrs or sharp edges, then sawing is performed, and chamfers are removed from the ends.
        
        A necessary moment after the completion of the repair work is the balancing of the cardan shaft, which is best entrusted to specialists.
        
        Replacing a splined cardan and especially restoring splined joints is not an easy task and requires extreme precision so that the balance is not disturbed and the mechanism subsequently works properly. When the problem has already been discovered, do not put off a visit to the auto repair shop - this will not only prevent future inevitable breakdowns, but also make driving safe again.
        
        If you do not take into account the steering, then all other universal joints used in the car are designed to transmit torque between the main transmission units. But the distance between the latter when driving on rough roads, entering turns, as well as during loading and unloading the car is forced to change. In addition, after a certain period, even in a calm state, this distance is different than on a brand new car, plus sometimes the owner puts other units instead of regular ones. To solve this problem with the variability of lengths helps cardan shaft spline, one of the most interesting, but rather difficult sections ...
        
        Where can you meet
        
        The classic scheme with a single-section cardan implies the presence of a spline in a single place - at one of the ends of the pipe. An all-metal tip with external (or a hollow sleeve with internal) slots is pressed into it, and then welded. A fork is put on (or pushed in, depending on the scheme), the shank of which is made in such a way as to create a ready-made sleeve-tip pair.
        
        Such a variant of conjugation allows the components to move along the axis, responding to impacts such as compression-stretching, but excludes rotation when a force is applied to twisting. Simply put, despite the fact that the fork can slide (for which it is called that - sliding), the torque will still be transmitted. In order for the sliding to be “comfortable”, the splines must be richly lubricated. Depending on the design, the lubricant can be stored for the entire period or replenished using grease fittings built into the body.
        
        In some cases (usually when it comes to two-section gears, where there is more than one moving element), a special bolt with a locking plate is used. It fixes the connection in one position, but leaves it potentially dynamic - if necessary, you can change the static parameters yourself. By the way, a fork will not always be used here, variations with flanges are also practiced.
        
        In some cars, you can find another spline, for example, at a checkpoint. The principle, purpose and "participants" remain the same, but this "alliance" is only half cardan. Its essence is that the gearbox output shaft shank has a splined thread and is “hidden” in the casing of the box extension. This includes the shank-sleeve of the fork, which replaced the more familiar in this place flange-fork. We repeat, the essence of the work from the rearrangement of our "terms" does not change - to compensate for changes in distances caused by deformations of the suspension and frame.
        
        Features and problems
        
        When implementing such a solution, a certain “conflict of interest” arises. It is vital to ensure freedom of longitudinal movement and at the same time ensure sufficient tightness for lateral engagement. It is unrealistic to do this one hundred percent for each item, you just have to minimize the difference between the width of the slot and the groove opposing it, and minimize friction as much as possible.
        
        As a result cardan shaft spline gets all the problems typical for such building blocks:
        
        - the constant need for the "correct" lubrication and wear of the splines when it is insufficient or contaminated;
        
        - increased torsional load, aggravated by impacts, which causes the destruction of structural elements;
        
        - the appearance of backlash in both cases, a decrease in performance and an unbalance of the entire assembly over time.
        
        And the worst thing is that if you lose the necessary parameters, it is almost impossible to get by with replacing only the flange or fork, and replacing the tip or contact shaft of the unit is not only a serious financial expense, but also a very complicated and slow process.
        
        Yes, quite recently they brought to mind the once developed, but then curtailed restoration project by means of electrospark alloying of corrosive areas and the application of a special metal polymer. But it is still quite expensive, it is possible only in the early stages, and for heavy trucks its effectiveness is doubtful in principle. In addition, it is generally impossible to carry out such repairs in artisanal conditions, and due to the novelty of the method, only some services are able to offer this service. Therefore, it is worth taking care to maintain the working qualities of a standard unit for as long as possible.
        
        Service
        
        With regard to the spline, the car owner (driver or mechanic) does not have so many opportunities, and hence responsibilities:
        
        It is necessary to regularly lubricate the connection (apply grease) at the intervals indicated in the map or even more often if the equipment is used very intensively, that is, as the oil is consumed
        
        When carrying out lubrication work, only materials recommended by the manufacturer can be used.
        
        As often as possible, the integrity of the seals (cuffs, seals) should be checked; if they are damaged, replace them immediately
        
        A regular check of the condition of the components is mandatory - as already mentioned, in the early stages of destruction, restoration is still possible
        
        If disassembly was performed, then the cardan must be balanced before installing it back.
        
        And in general, maintaining all the other parts of the transmission in proper condition is also one of the ways to keep the spline connection in order, because here, as in the body - they injured the ankle - the load on the knee increased many times over. And the fact that it is worth using only high-quality components, everyone knows without reminders.
        
        You can buy these, for example, from us, in the online store of Lider LLC. All presented goods are checked by specialized services and certified in Russia, prices are pleasant, and additional joys await the buyer, such as wholesale discounts, deferrals and freedom in choosing a payment method (cash, bank transfer). We also organize (if necessary, you can pick up the purchase yourself) delivery in Moscow, the region and transport companies to the regions.
        
        Cardan is an important transmission element of many car models. Its task is to transfer the torque from the "razdatka" (gearbox) to the axle gearboxes. Structurally, this element is very simple, which allows motorists to replace it or make minor repairs with their own hands.
        
        As part of the cardan shaft there are such components: the shaft itself, crosses (usually there are two of them), mounting parts (the same outboard bearing), seals, fork and other devices (much depends on the car model here). The number of sections in the cardan may vary (from one or more). Weight and dimensions often depend on the type of vehicle.
        
        One of the main elements of the cardan is the cross. It is thanks to her that two mating shafts can rotate with a changing angle relative to each other. The optimal angle of rotation is from 0 to 20 degrees. It is in this range that maximum efficiency is provided. If the angle is set incorrectly, then the crosspiece is heavily overloaded, vibration, imbalance, and noise occur.
        
        It is impossible not to mention two more important cardan nodes:
        
        - Sliding spline connection KP. Provides “stretching” of the cardan shaft in case of overcoming an obstacle, when the suspension of the machine can also “stretch” in height. Without this element, the deformation of the cardan, box or gearbox would be a matter of time;
        
        - outboard bearing.Its task is to hold the composite shaft and not create additional obstacles for it during rotation. But there is one caveat: the more sections, the more such bearings can be.
        
        Every motorist must from time to time drive a car onto an overpass and diagnose the cardan. Otherwise, “surprises” in the form of extra noise or “clattering” of the crosspiece can catch you at the most inopportune moment. Let's look at what kind of cardan shaft failures are possible and how to fix them:
        
        - the tightening of the fixing bolts of the “box” coupling or flanges has loosened. Simply tighten the connections to the required torque;
        
        - there was a large gap (above the norm) in the splined part. Remove the cardan, replace the necessary elements or the shaft itself completely;
        
        - increased clearance in the cross (more precisely, its bearings). Buy and install a new node;
        
        - the cardan was deformed (there are obvious bends). Change the deformed elements or the shaft completely;
        
        - the cardan installation technology was not observed (regarding special marks). Install the shaft correctly;
        
        - there are obvious problems with the balance of the cardan. Carry out balancing work on a special stand. If shaft restoration is needed, do it;
        
        – the bushing of the coupling flange or the shaft ring is worn out or destroyed. Replace damaged parts. If the bushing is worn out, put a new one together with the flange;
        
        – large clearance in the outboard bearing. In this case, you need to remove the cardan, install a new intermediate support and change the bearing;
        
        - damaged (collapsed) suspension support. Buy a new part and install it;
        
        – there is no lubricating composition in the splines of the shaft. Fix the problem (use Fiol-2U);
        
        - the stuffing box seal in the bearings of the "box" cross is clearly destroyed. Buy new parts and replace.
        
        The replacement of the cardan shaft or a number of its other elements is carried out according to the following algorithm:
        
        - prepare everything you need for work. Here you will need a screwdriver, a hammer, pliers (we are talking about a tool for dismantling retaining rings), an aluminum tip (you can also take copper), keys (most often you need three - for “12”, “13” and “27”);
        
        - immediately set the marks at the joints of the shaft and on all its elements (and most importantly - at the junction with the bridge shank). "Flags" can be made with a chisel or paint. This will eliminate build errors. It is no secret that in case of improper installation, after the cardan is installed, strong vibrations and failure of the main shaft assemblies may occur;
        
        - remove cardan. Take the key to "13" and twist the bolts that tighten the transverse support and the outboard bearing. Now move on to the nuts that secure the shaft to the axle;
        
        – first replace the cross. To do this, pull out the retaining rings with pliers. Now put the cardan so that the crosspiece is in weight;
        
        - now you need a hammer and a mandrel. With their help, carefully knock out the cup of the cross;
        
        - turn the cardan 180 degrees and remove the broken cup. Immediately knock out the next one;
        
        - if you are not going to change the cardan shaft, then it is advisable to clean the eyes of the old shaft well, removing completely the existing manifestations of corrosion and dirt. Please note that it is advisable to clean all the recesses in which the retaining rings will stand;
        
        - pull out two cups from the new cross and insert them into the eyelets. Now, carefully, so as not to lose the needles, put on the cup;
        
        - Knock the last one until the groove for the ring is visible. Put the ring in the groove and turn the cardan;
        
        - now also carefully move the cross in the direction of the cup and put it on according to the same principle as in the previous paragraph. Install retaining ring. Please note that the last cup is a little more difficult to put, so you will have to suffer;
        
        - when the outboard bearing is out of order - change it.
        
        After removing the cross, insert the splined edge of the shaft into the coupling flange, and then twist the fastening nut of the hinge yoke and the front shaft (the key to “27” is useful here);
        
        - Take a puller and tighten the hinge fork. Then it remains quite a bit - to remove the outboard bearing itself. There are two ways here - knock it down with a hammer or cut the outer part of the ring, and then use a puller;
        
        - if it is necessary to replace the cardan assembly - do it (everything is even simpler here);
        
        - collect everything in place in reverse order, taking into account the labels. When installing a new cardan, you may have to do additional balancing.