DIY extruder screw repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the extruder screw from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Do-it-yourself extruder screw is one of the most popular requests today. And it's just that, because gradually this element becomes a truly necessary subject in the process of plastic molding. When it comes to extrusion, you can't do without an extruder screw. It is this element that allows you to quickly and with proper quality create a series of plastic products, rubber objects and mixtures, without distraction for other manipulations.

A direct workflow is the continuous movement of raw materials through a hole to be molded. It is this process that produces a superior unit of product. And here the main role falls on such parts of the extruder as the screws. By and large, in order to give a more complete understanding of the situation, you can compare the screws with a spiral advancing meat through a meat grinder. Everything is the same only for plastic.

It should be noted here that this element is very, very vulnerable. It is constantly exposed to stress, often excessive, and therefore fails. And buying an auger can have a very negative effect on a family's budget. A do-it-yourself extruder screw is an acceptable option for saving money. The key point here is a thorough knowledge of the process.

In order to better understand the whole process of making this element, we give a list of the necessary tools:

So, the tools are spread out within reach, the place is prepared. You can take sheet steel as raw material, its thickness should be 3mm. But still, the first thing to do is to think about what and how the body will be created. The body is a structure resembling a segmented tube, where each segment is bolted together.

Video (click to play).

Do not forget that the channels for loading and unloading raw materials must be present initially, and not hastily drilled. Otherwise, you will have nowhere to put the raw materials and, accordingly, the final output of the product will not be made either. Do not forget about the liquidation hatch - in order to clean the unit of debris in time and prevent slaughter. The calculation of the extruder screw is made depending on the dimensions of the direct unit.

In fact, all screws can be divided into two groups:

  • The screw is solid, this extruder element is quite interesting. On the base, straight and solid, there is a gripping plate. The plate is positioned in a spiral manner, in which case the balance of the screw is very important. It is competent balancing that is able to protect the unit from deformation, displacement of vibrations and bends. Also, do not forget that the base of the screw must be wider than its transport part.
  • The second option is a tape screw. The design of this auger is quite simple - a pipe with a tape passed through the "ribs". Such an extruder screw is used when working with complex materials. This structure is easy enough to clean.

After finishing with the preparatory work and decomposing the completed components, you can start assembling. The first screw is mounted in the manufactured housing, the drive is attached to the extreme side of the structure. A gearbox is needed here, in this case a two-stage one. It is the gearbox that is connected to the electric motor. Three seconds and that's it, your auger is ready.

In order for a freshly made element to work as long as possible and better, follow a few simple rules:

  • frequent and abundant lubrication for the device will allow you to postpone the moment of final breakdown for a long time;
  • moderate loading - the weight of the loaded raw materials cannot be higher than the norm;
  • careful prevention of drops in rotation speeds - it is the drops that wear out the unit especially strongly;
  • timely shutdown and cleaning of the unit in case of clogging.

It is these simple and clear commandments that will significantly extend the life of your extruder, which is undoubtedly important. After all, a screw extruder with your own hands will be cheaper in monetary terms, but undoubtedly more expensive in the spiritual sense. Like any other thing created by yourself.

Usually, the repair of the auger is carried out in the following cases:

scheduled repairs;

- ingress of foreign materials into the auger.

Our customers who have bought a new or steam auger often return the old auger for repair - this smart solution allows us to keep one of the main parts of the extruder in stock.

Restoration and repair of screw pairs of extruders and granulators.

Our specialists have developed a process for the recovery of screw pairs of extrusion equipment, such as extruders, granulators and injection molding machines.

Refurbishment of the main components of the extruder, such as the screw-sleeve, significantly increases the productivity of the installation, and, accordingly, reduces production costs. That in the current economic situation is a very weighty argument. The operating experience of the remanufactured augers allows us to speak about the complete restoration of their operability and resource at a price significantly lower than the cost of new parts.

The problem with which converters contact our company is the following:

wear of the working part of the auger (auger pair):

In this case, our craftsmen perform turning work, centering (checking and restoring the alignment and correct shape of the ridges), surfacing of the reinforcing material, honing the liner, nitrogenizing or carburizing the liner. After that, the auger is sent for grinding, dimensional control, polishing and testing at the stand.

The restoration process is:
- Plasma surfacing of the screw ridges with carbide materials
- Grinding and polishing of mating surfaces and internal parts of the auger ridges (according to the measurements of the sleeve. On the sleeve, cleaned or honed).
-Cleaning the ends of the auger. (additional melting, if necessary).
-Check for runout, ovality, centering on the axis of rotation,

-Control of hardness.
-Packaging in a transport box or oiling and wrapping in stretch film.

restoration of screws of extruders

repair of screws of extruders

Terms and cost of work:

The average recovery time for a screw pair for an extruder is 15-30 calendar days.

Individual cases and terms are always negotiated after analyzing the breakage and the material of the auger.

The cost of work on the most common defects from 30,000 rubles (depending on the complexity of the work performed, the length and diameter of the screw).

Examples of the work done:

  1. Starlinger PP filament extrusion line - screw surfacing and repair;
  2. XxtruderQweenB(Taiwan) Ф60, Ф42 - screw surfacing;
  3. Extruder VM-900 (Russia) F45 - screw surfacing;
  4. Extruder URP-1500 F90 - screw surfacing;
  5. Granulator 125/105Rs(China) F125 - screw surfacing;
  6. TPADemag500 tons - screw surfacing.

Application for repair of screws of extruders

To repair your auger - contact us! And we will promptly perform a preliminary cost estimate.

Image - DIY extruder screw repair

Many keep an impressive livestock of animals in their backyard. In such cases, the problem of feed processing becomes acute - the appetites of the "wards" are considerable, and compound feed is prepared very often. This also requires equipment, and industrial designs cost a lot. But there is still a way out - to assemble a grain extruder with your own hands.

This mechanism is designed to process raw materials (grain, straw, etc.) into "light" animal feed. The necessary conditions for obtaining such products are high pressure and high temperature.

This specificity of work leaves an imprint on the entire structure. Among the main parts and assemblies are:

  • frame (aka frame), which will hold the entire apparatus;
  • receiving hopper;
  • belt drive;
  • engine;
  • reducer;
  • screw;
  • fier;
  • knife;
  • cylinder;
  • cuff;
  • adjusting key;
  • washers;
  • control panel.

Of course, industrial designs are more complex and productive, but a home-made version will be enough for the owner of the courtyard. If you have a fairly powerful electric motor at hand, you can get up to 40 kg of high-quality mixture per hour.

Having learned what the extruder is intended for, and how it can help in preparing the feed base, let's take a closer look at the processing process itself.

Most extruders (both factory and homemade) are distinguished by their versatility. In addition to the grain mass, the following are suitable as raw materials for processing:

  • rye and soybeans;
  • meal and cake obtained from these crops;
  • fish and meat meal.

Processing starts from the fact that the raw materials that have entered the hopper are fed to the injection auger, the heating washers of which soften the grain. The auger, rotating, transports the products to the fier. This is where heat treatment and main pressure testing take place.

The last stage is the passage through the disc, controlled by the handle (by changing the position, you can set the desired size of the fraction). A small roller with a knife is attached to it by a spring, which cuts the resulting "sausages". They come out through the holes in the form of a thin (up to 3 cm) dense bundle. Note that this is typical for large, industrial units. For homemade ones, the output is adjusted directly from the fiery.

The extruder, designed for the preparation of feed, has an advantageous difference in that even stale and slightly overheated grain can be put into operation - with this heat treatment, the mold is "neutralized".

You can assemble such a device at home. This will require the right parts and locksmith skills (although familiarity with turners is also desirable). Let's start with preparing the hardware.

The first step is to select electric motor... Here you need a 4 kW motor (1400 rpm) - for working with a 220 V household power supply, this is the best option. A less powerful "engine" will not cope with such loads.

Often for such purposes they take old motors that have not been used for years, falling into dust in the corner. In this case, the unit will have to be thoroughly inspected - the case is disassembled, the condition of the rotor, winding and bearing is checked.

Basic diagnostics will not hurt either. Simple spinning test: try to spin the rotor by hand (only on an unconnected motor). If with effort, but still went - no problem. In turn, the stiffness can be the result of clogged or unusable grease in the bearings (or the use of an unsuitable one).

After making sure that the motor is in good working order, put the cover back in place and try to turn it on. Listen - the hum should be even, without "wedging" cutting the ear. Their presence indicates bearing play or a broken race.

With the engine sorted out. In addition to the "heart", you will need the following components:

  • iron corner (25 and 35 mm);
  • shaft for auger;
  • steel wire (10 mm diameter);
  • rods (8 mm);
  • pipe (for the body);
  • blank for fier;
  • threaded transition;
  • output coupling with locknut;
  • axle box with two bearings (63x18 in diameter);
  • two pulleys (gear ratio ¼);
  • galvanized iron under the bunker;
  • capacitors (4 working capacitors at 8 mKf and 2 starting capacitors at 280 mKf);
  • plug and switch.

Obligatory "requisite" - angle grinder, welding machine and yews. In addition to them, you will also have to use a lathe.

The algorithm of actions at the beginning of the assembly will be as follows:

  • The frame is prepared first. The corners are cut to size, set and boiled. In our case, the base of the "bed" has dimensions of 40x80 cm. The upper platform for the body is 16x40.
  • Then the legs are put on the frame (40 cm). Having welded them to the base, they proceed to the connection with the "top". Paired jumpers are placed under it in 5 centimeters.
  • To mount the engine, you will have to cook another frame from the same corner. Elongated slots are made in its racks, thanks to which the belt tension will be adjusted. It is finally fixed only after both shafts are exposed.

You can make the frame yourself, and then more complex work begins (including turning). Difficulties mainly relate to manufacturing auger:

  • On one of the edges of the shaft (42 cm long and 27 mm in diameter), a 2 cm cone with 45 ° angles is turned on a lathe. He is assigned the role of a tip.
  • On the base of the shaft, tightly clamped in yews, a "ten" wire is wound. These will be the screws. It will have to be set at the right angle, welded and carefully trimmed with a grinder. This is almost impossible without an assistant.
  • The first one comes out from the unmachined roller. From the first to the second screw should be about 25 mm (if measured in the center of the ridge) - this is where the raw material gets. The gap between the second and third will be the same.
  • The five center turns are spaced 20 mm apart;
  • At 2–2.5 cm from them, two pieces of wire are “riveted” tightly at once - a blank of a heating washer. Having trimmed its surface, slightly oblique shallow cuts (along the entire circumference, with a step of 1 cm) are made with a "grinder".
  • From the edge of the washer, the auger of the extension part will protrude, after which there are three more with a gap of 20 mm. Such work can take a whole day.

WITH cylinder also have to tinker.

Expose the rods just like that, "by eye" will not work. To avoid skewing, look for a pipe - "forty" (it has an outer diameter of 48 mm). Clamps are placed at both ends, which will clamp the rods. But there is one more nuance. Even before "scalding", several rods will have to be cut so that a loading window (3x2 cm) is obtained, which will be 3 cm from one of the edges.

When the cylinder has cooled, it is cleaned of rust. Then the finished auger is inserted. There should be no more than 1 mm between the walls and the screws. The tapered end of the shaft will protrude completely. It is there that a suitable thread (here - "50") with a length of 2 cm will be welded.

A separate topic is manufacturing fiery... This is a tricky turning job. The fact is that with one end it should be put on the tapered edge of the shaft (you will have to make a similar groove in the center). Do not forget about the external thread, which will screw the whole part around the cylinder. And here are its parameters:

  • length - 80 mm;
  • joint diameter - 49 mm;
  • inner hole 15 mm.

Do frame already easier - a piece of pipe of the required diameter is cut off, after which it is cut along. The cylinder is placed inside for fitting. You may need to level the cavity with a hammer. If everything fits, the cylinder is covered with the second half of the casing and seams are started at the pipe cut. On the sides, they gently grab it, strapping the paronite. A suitable tube 3 cm long is placed on top of the prepared window (it is also welded "in place").

For a small farm, the usual filling bunkers made of galvanized iron. It is based on a riveted square (16x16 cm). Having counted 14 cm from its top, make a uniform bend at the bottom of the front wall. Then the rear wall is adjusted and a hole is made, which should go into the window on the body.

It is connected to the upper bed by "legs" from a corner of 25 mm, welded at an angle. The bunker is riveted to them on both sides, having previously drilled holes.

Final installation related to electrical equipment:

  • All working expansion joints are placed in one block and sequentially soldered. It's the same story with launchers.
  • Then both wires are removed from the first worker.
  • On the middle and lower bolts of the motor "block", the free ends of the fork should already be fixed. One of the free wires from the capacitor is hooked to the upper bolt, and the second is brought out to the starting "condo".
  • On the first working "condo" solder a wire from the start switch (the second is already connected to them).

Everything is ready to go. Starting capacitors turn on for a couple of seconds, at the very beginning of work, otherwise they may explode.

The final chord is the installation and "hanging" of the pulleys, which should be strictly vertical and without the slightest distortions relative to each other.If everything fits together, you can test and get started. The first "runs" are made on soft raw materials like cake.

We gave an example of how you can assemble an extruder at home, and this "manual" is enough to understand what it is, and whether it is worth taking on manufacturing yourself.

Such a decision is supported by the following arguments:

  • cheapness;
  • the ability to "fit" the unit to fit your needs by choosing the appropriate size;
  • ease of maintenance;
  • uncomplicated electrical circuit without many pads and plugs;
  • savings on the purchase of compound feed (home stocks are used);
  • good productivity.

But there are also disadvantages:

  • laboriousness of assembly, which requires tools and skills;
  • accelerated heating of the cylinder, from which almost all homemade products suffer;
  • unprotected wiring.

Let everyone draw their own conclusions, based on their own considerations. We can only state that the extruder will be an excellent help for a small courtyard with a "handy" owner. But a farmer on a big scale will need a stable (and expensive) factory product.

Now you know what the extruder is useful for, and what is the reason for its manufacture. We hope you will correctly calculate the design by assembling a durable apparatus. Good luck on the farm!

An easy-to-use feed extruder makes it possible to independently produce animal feed. This device is considered an indispensable assistant both in a large-scale agricultural sector and in a small farm for raising animals and birds. In specialized stores, such equipment costs decent money. To save money, the unit can be assembled with your own hands, drawings and recommendations of specialists will serve as an auxiliary informant in this matter.

An extruder is used for processing grain crops into compound feed, which is absorbed in the stomach of animals much easier. Processing is carried out using a press under a pressure of 60 atmospheres and at high temperatures. The result is a product that is shaped like corn sticks 20-30 mm, but with a dense structure.

Apparatus for preparing feed exist with a different power indicator, the volume of the output product depends on it. For a small farm, a device with a capacity of 25-45 kg / h is perfect - the price of such a device starts at 47 thousand rubles. But in a large farm, more powerful models will be required, capable of producing up to 1.5 tons per hour and they cost from 160 thousand rubles.

Due to high prices, equipment for processing products into compound feed, even used, is available to a narrow circle of consumers. But if you make a do-it-yourself feed extruder, you can save a lot. Only in this case, you need to study in detail the device of the unit, the principle of operation, and also have all the necessary spare parts available.

Diagram of a large extruder device

The device includes the following elements:

  • frame - serves as the basis, all the details are fixed on it;
  • drive unit;
  • belt;
  • loading capacity;
  • cuff;
  • dosing auger with a separate drive;
  • reducer;
  • receiving tank;
  • motor;
  • delivery screw conveyor;
  • Control block;
  • carved blade;
  • washer;
  • key for adjustment.

In a homemade extruder, the main function is performed by the pressing mechanism. The element includes a pumping screw assembly mounted in the cylinder. The blade block gives the product the shape of elongated sticks.

The functions of the appliance are not limited only to pressing the feed. With its help, you can grind grain, carry out heat treatment and disinfection of feed, mix different components into a single mass.

The design of the injection screw includes:

  • outer part;
  • internal;
  • heating washers;
  • outgoing auger.

Each assembly is mounted on a left-hand threaded stud and covered with a metal housing. Thanks to the keys, the revolutions go from the main shaft to the combination auger. All components are firmly fixed to the frame.

Detailed design of the extruder (download)

The body element is equipped with a hole, a receiving part is mounted to it. The inner area is equipped with longitudinal grooves, due to which all feed components are mixed along the longitudinal side of the axis.

A pellet regulator is installed on the outlet part; its design includes:

  • matrix block;
  • output housing;
  • a blade pressed against the die block by a spring element.

The rotations of the shaft with the blade are carried out by means of a rein. The temperature regime can be monitored using a thermocouple mounted on the frame. The grain extruder is powered by electrical voltage. But there are already modifications that run on fuel.

If you have the necessary material, parts and tools, you can make an extruder yourself. Let's see how to get a low performance model.

  • electric motor with a power of 2.2 kW at 3,000 rpm;
  • gears from a tractor box - parts from YuMZ are an excellent option;
  • spring 8 mm;
  • stock with a cross section of 5 cm;
  • welding equipment.

Step-by-step work on making a feed extruder with your own hands:

  1. To obtain a cylinder, you will need to weld the tractor gears together. As a result, a spare part with a section of 625 mm should come out. Further, a spring with a diameter of 8 mm is mounted on the hydraulic cylinder rod. Weld all the parts, with an uneven seam, treat the area with a grinder.
  1. With the help of turning equipment, grind 2 axle boxes, which will be intended for the auger and gearbox. Weld the auger, shaft element and axle boxes into a single piece, making sure to insert the bearing between the last parts.
  1. The head of the equipment is mounted on the auger, it will act as a regulator of the die to which the nozzles are boiled.
  1. The auger is covered with a casing, all parts are assembled and fixed to the frame, the electric motor, belts and the starting part are also mounted. A loading capacity is installed on top.

In general terms, a home-made extruder in terms of external and functional characteristics is similar to an electric-type household meat grinder.

VIDEO: Making a screw granulator with your own hands (part 1)

A self-assembled grain granulator before large-scale production needs preliminary testing and verification work. The equipment should be tested in a safe environment.

Homemade feed extruder

  1. The first thing to check is the quality of all connections, as well as the fasteners and the maximum level of lift to the stop.
  2. Then the device is fixed on a flat, stable surface. If the coating is wobbly, the appliance may not function properly.
  3. Connect to a power source, start up and leave for a few minutes to fully warm up the system. So that the elements do not rotate in vain, you can pass a light product in the form of flour or cake from sunflower seeds through the mechanism for checking. By the correctness of the shape, it is determined whether the apparatus has warmed up enough.

When the "sausage" shape becomes even and dense, it means the unit is ready to work with grain.

  1. After the compound feed comes out of the desired shape, you can fill in the grain product. Grain supply must be regular without interruption, the mechanism must not be allowed to function idle. You should also fill the raw materials in uniform portions so as not to overload the system and not create a blockage.
  2. At the exit, you need to adjust the fraction of the compound feed, periodically tightening the bolt and reducing the hole in the die plate.
  3. At the end of the production process, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the internal units from product residues. To do this, you do not need to disassemble the device, it is enough to pour the shells from the seeds into the equipment. This raw material is able to well collect particles of the grain product due to the contained oils.
  4. Reduce the level of rotation to gradually cool down the parts of the mechanism. If it is necessary to disassemble the device, wear thermal protective gloves, there is a risk of getting burned.

The device, made by hand, is capable of producing up to 40 kg / h of compound feed. The level of performance depends entirely on the degree of power of the motor, which is the design of the equipment. For personal use, such processing efficiency will be sufficient.

Mechanized processing of raw materials allows you to fully provide livestock with compound feed, while reducing the cost of purchasing factory feed. In the process of preparing feed pellets, you can use a variety of cereal products with additives, enriching the diet with various world and macro elements, which are so lacking in conventional feed.

VIDEO: Making a screw granulator with your own hands (part 2)