DIY shocker repair

In case of complete failure or partial malfunction, it may be necessary to repair the shocker. Where to go to replace worn out parts? Or maybe do it yourself repair the stun gun? Let's try to consider in detail all the issues related to troubleshooting ESHU.

One of the most common shocker malfunctions is a missing spark or a constant electric arc instead of a variable arc. Also, the capacitor in the device may break, the microcircuit breaks down, and the battery oxidizes. There are many reasons why a stun gun breaks down. This is the ingress of moisture, wear of parts and assemblies, improper charging of the device and non-observance of the operating instructions.

Why is it not recommended to repair the stun gun with your own hands? It's simple: in order to eliminate a malfunction, it is necessary to identify its cause, and an amateur cannot do this. The only thing that an ordinary user can do is install a battery in the device instead of a battery that has failed. All other faults should be eliminated exclusively by professionals.

If the ESHU is broken, but is still under warranty, you need to contact the sales point where it was purchased. You will be prompted to either fix the problem, or replace the broken device with a new one.

Also, repairs are carried out by specialized service centers, where masters work who are well versed in the features of such devices and can diagnose them.

There is one caveat: almost all ESDs work according to an individual electrical circuit, and it is difficult to find its description or image. Accordingly, the craftsmen reproduce the circuit only after visual analysis: they disassemble the device and study its internal structure. That is why, often after repairs, ESHU does not work as before. That is, in many cases it is more expedient to purchase a new device than to repair the old one.

DIY stun gun repair

There can be many reasons for repairing a stun gun with your own hands. The main ones are a non-working flashlight bulb in a stun gun, an insufficient charge of a stun gun and, strangely enough, the stun gun pierces the body and, accordingly, beats with current where it is not needed.

Immediately it is worth making a reservation at the beginning of the article and saying that repairing a stun gun with your own hands is fraught with unpleasant consequences. You can not only completely break the stun gun, but also get a strong electric shock from it. Therefore, if there are no basic skills in working with devices powered by electricity, then it is better to refuse from self-repairing the stun gun.

Over time, even the best stun gun loses its charge and gradually breaks down. Therefore, if the reason for repairing a stun gun is in insufficient charge or fast discharge, then you should think about the following, first of all:

• Perhaps it's time to change the battery in the stun gun;
• The high-voltage converter of the stun gun is out of order.

And if the first cause of the breakdown of the stun gun is enough to simply eliminate with your own hands, then problems may arise with the replacement of the high-frequency generator in the stun gun.

To repair a stun gun with your own hands, you cannot do without knowledge of how a stun gun works. In fact, the operation of a stun gun is quite simple. A charged stun gun holds a charge in the battery or batteries, from which, when the stun gun button is pressed, a constant voltage is supplied to the transformer.

From the transformer of the stun gun, an alternating voltage comes out, which goes to the high-frequency converter and voltage multiplier. From the voltage multiplier, the current flows to the external contacts of the stun gun, which are designed to shock the enemy.

If the stun gun is equipped with a flashlight, then if it breaks down, you should first check the light bulb. Depending on the model of stun guns, either a light bulb or an LED can be installed in the flashlight. With the replacement of the LED in the stun gun, certain problems can also arise, because it is, as a rule, non-removable and soldered to a special board.

The main thing is not to forget about safety precautions when repairing a stun gun with your own hands. A blow over 1000 volts, even if it is short-lived, few people like it. Therefore, before you repair the stun gun, make sure that it is completely discharged.

If this is not the case, then be sure to discharge the stun gun, because only in this way you can not worry about the actual safety when repairing the stun gun with your own hands.

An electroshock device (stun gun), abbreviated as ESHU, is a publicly available special means of protection against offenders and an effective means of scaring off and protecting animals, such as dogs, when attacked.

Shockers on the market are presented in a wide range, but the principle of operation of all models is the same. They differ from each other only in the magnitude of the voltage on the electrodes, the power of the arc, reliability and the availability of additional services, such as a flashlight and built-in charger, and others.

The main consumer parameters of any shocker are the open circuit voltage on the spark gap electrodes and the arc power. According to GOST R 50940-96 “Electroshock devices. General specifications. " Shockers by voltage on the electrodes are divided into five groups. The first is from 70 to 90 kV, the second is from 45 to 70 kV, the third is from 20 to 45 kV, the fourth is from 12 to 20 kV and the fifth is up to 12 kV inclusive. And according to the power of the arc impact - into three types. The first is from 2 to 3 watts, the second is from 1 to 2 watts and the third is from 0.3 to 1 watts.

Depending on the combination of the type and group possessed by a specific model of the stun gun, according to GOST R 50940-96, it can be attributed to one of five classes. To which class the stun gun corresponds, it is easy to find out from the table below. For example, a stun gun of the second type of the third group belongs to the third class.

First class stun guns are very powerful and expensive, they are weapons for special forces. For personal protection, a second or third class shocker is quite suitable. Shockers of the fourth and fifth classes are more suitable for intimidating the attacker than for real protection.

Attention, if you decide to buy a stun gun, then consider the following. For a temporary paralysis of the physical strength of an attacker, the time of continuous impact of a shock discharge on his body should be about 3 seconds. With a shorter exposure time, you will only anger the offender and then it is quite possible that you yourself will fall under the influence of your own shocker. It is permissible to use a shocker only if you are sure that you can keep the shocker pressed by the electrodes to the opponent's body for three seconds.

I had to repair a JSJ-704 type stun gun with a flashlight. The appearance of this shocker is shown in the photo above. According to external signs, the shocker was serviceable, the LED indicating the battery charge was on when the shocker was connected to the network. The flashlight worked, the ready-to-discharge LED was also on, but when the discharge button was pressed, nothing happened. It became obvious that the fault lies in the high-voltage converter circuit.

All stun guns, regardless of model and manufacturer, work on the same principle. Voltage from a battery or batteries is fed to a high frequency generator, which converts DC voltage into AC voltage.An alternating voltage is applied to a step-up high-voltage transformer, the secondary winding of which is connected directly or through a voltage multiplier to the external electrodes of the shocker. When the stun gun is turned on, a powerful electric arc arises between the electrodes.

The photo shows the electrical schematic diagram of the JSJ-704 stun gun.

The circuit consists of several functional units. The GB1 battery charger is assembled on the capacitor C1 and the diode bridge VD1. C1 limits the charge current to 80 mA, the diode bridge rectifies the voltage. Resistor R1 serves to discharge the capacitor C1 through it after disconnecting the shocker from the mains voltage to prevent the discharge of the capacitor through the human body when accidentally touching the terminals of the plug.

The HL1 LED serves to indicate the connection of the shocker to the 220 V electrical network, R2 serves to limit the current flowing through the HL1. This part of the circuit does not directly participate in the work of the shocker and serves only to charge the battery and may be absent in models of other shockers. Charging time for a fully discharged battery is 15 hours.

LED HL2 with current limiting resistor R3 is a flashlight. The flashlight turns on when the S1 switch slider is moved to the middle position. The flashlight is placed between the shock arrestor and is convenient in the dark. In some models, shockers may be absent.

The HL3 LED with a current-limiting resistor R4 are used to indicate the inclusion of the shocker in the ready-to-use mode. To prevent accidental switching on to the discharge mode, triple protection is provided in the form of three switches. In order for a discharge to appear between the electrodes, you must first move the slide switch S1 (located next to the round button) to the extreme right position, then the second slide switch S2 (located next to the socket for connecting the shocker to the mains for charging) to the right position, then the HL3 LED will light up, informing that the shocker is ready to discharge. And only after that, when you press the round pusher of the return button S3 "Start" itself, a discharge in the form of a blue arc will appear between the electrodes.

Due to the fact that the halves of the shocker body were fastened together with four self-tapping screws, it was not difficult to disassemble it.

The heads of three self-tapping screws were clearly visible in the countersunk holes, and the fourth was sealed with a label. After unscrewing all the screws, the halves are easily detached.

After removing the cover, the following picture was revealed. As you can see in the photo, the installation of the stun gun parts is carried out in a hinged way, there is no printed circuit board. The high-voltage converter is filled with a compound. This is good, as it is protected from moisture and therefore more reliable, but it is bad that the converter is not repairable. It should be noted that although the shocker is also made in China, all the soldering is performed with high quality and reliability.

Attention, when repairing a stun gun, extreme care must be taken so as not to accidentally touch the discharge electrodes while the stun gun is operating. Killing will not kill, but unpleasant sensations are guaranteed.

The repair of any electronic device begins with checking the power supply. Therefore, the first step is to check the performance of the battery or batteries. The check can be done with a multimeter. If the shocker runs on batteries, then in addition to their serviceability, you need to check the condition of the contacts in the battery compartment. It happens that they oxidize or weaken their spring properties.

When the "Start" button was pressed while the "Readiness" indicator was on, the discharge did not occur, but the voltage at the battery terminals, equal to 7.2 V, did not drop. Therefore, it is not about the battery. I checked the voltage by pressing the "Start" button on the input terminals of the High Voltage Converter, it dropped to several volts.This voltage was enough for the HL3 LED to glow, but not enough for the converter to work.

Therefore, the fault was in poor contact of one of the switches, S1, S2 or S3. I short-circuited the S2 conclusions with a jumper and the stun gun started working. To restore the shocker's performance, you need to clean or replace the faulty switch.

If the stun gun has not been turned on for a long time, then in some types of switches the contacts are oxidized and often to restore their performance, it is enough to turn it on and off twenty times. Then the oxide will be erased, and the switch will work again.

But since the shocker was opened and there was access to the contacts in the faulty switch, the wires were soldered from the switch and the contacts were cleaned with a brush moistened with alcohol. During the time when the contacts were wet with alcohol, the switch was switched intensively. After soldering back to the wire terminals, the shocker's work was restored. As you can see, we managed to repair the stun gun with our own hands, spending very little time.

Here is a video demonstrating the operation of the stun gun after repair. As you can see, a rather powerful arc arises between the electrodes, accompanied by a strong sound of a wide spectrum. Animals, especially dogs, do not like this sound very much; they run away with their tails between their legs.

Hello everyone! Reviews on the Mysku of this flashlight or shocker prompted me to buy it as a dog repeller. The device came to me partially working: the flashlight was shining, the shocker sparkled, but the battery charge from the mains did not go. Therefore, the lantern was disassembled, as a result, I myself was somewhat shocked by its internal contents, although I assumed that I would see something similar. My review is an addition to the existing reviews, that is, a description of the internal structure of this flashlight-shocker.

The flashlight I bought after the review was my second order from TinyDeal. An order came to me about 50 days later, a "simple" (in the words of the post office workers) parcel without any registration - for such parcels, even the addressees are not sent mail notifications. This was the first time I received such a package.

Brought home, unpacked, examined, checked. The flashlight works, the shocker sparks very loudly, which is what I needed. Of the defects, I immediately noticed a crack on the plastic glass covering the flashlight, and in general the glass itself was somehow unclear. He shook the lantern - it seemed like nothing was dangling inside him.

I unwittingly experienced a shock on myself when I pressed the "start" button once without making sure that the "shock" was turned off. It so happened that I was holding the flashlight by the body, and my hand slightly went to the "crown" of the flashlight. The electric shock was strong enough, without a spark discharge, and the plastic of the crown pierced the campaign, since I did not touch the contact plates. I was repeatedly electrocuted from voltage sources from 110 volts to 30 kV (the scars have still not disappeared), and in general I am not very sensitive to this, since the skin on my fingers is rather rough. I estimate the "shocking" effect of the flashlight as quite strong, approximately equal to an electric shock from a 220 volt network. 380 volts hit me only once, and this was perhaps the most dangerous case. The kilovolts in this shocker are purely for the visible effect, and for the clothes to break through. If you set the goal to shock, and not spark, then a voltage of 500 volts would be enough, given that this would significantly increase the current strength. Well, the place where the current is applied is very important.

After playing with the flashlight a little, I did not bring it to a full battery, but still decided to charge it: it was interesting what happens when the flashlight is plugged into the mains for charging. It turned out - nothing! Nothing at all! The LED on the end of the flashlight handle did not light up, and according to all indications, charging did not go on. Okay, checking the lace (who just guessed to make the cord so short ?!) - the cord is fine. So why is it not charging? I clicked the switches - the result was zero.The review says that charging from the mains goes only when the switch on the end of the handle is "On", but in my case nothing has changed.

Without much hesitation, I unscrew the two self-tapping screws that secure the plastic back of the flashlight to the metal one. With a little effort, I remove this plastic part from the flashlight. And there…

I photographed after I had disassembled everything, so some of the photos are going ahead.

I have not seen such a collective farm for a long time ... the wires from the terminals for connecting the charging cord are soldered to the capacitor and the rectifier assembly hanging on the capacitor terminals. The wires from the output of the rectifier assembly go deep into the device.

The capacitor even chipped off the body material due to excessive bending of the lead.

And the main thing is that all this is not isolated by anything, even just a coil of electrical tape on top of a conduit with a rectifier. If we consider that the wires are thin, and the quality of insulation does not suffer, then it is quite possible to expect short-circuit and fireworks. There is no fuse. Self-tapping screws sticking out inside the lamp and securing the back cover can also lead to a short circuit inside the lamp. It's good that at least the connections of the wires with the HV converter are isolated, I would have checked that there was soldering or twisting, but I forgot to do this.

Next, we look more closely into the inside of the back cover, and we find that the charge indication LED is soldered through a resistor to the terminals, that is, it should light up immediately when external power is applied, and burn all the time while the flashlight is connected to the network. The review says that the LED goes out when the battery is charged - is there really a charge controller in that lamp? I doubt something, maybe there is an inaccuracy in the review? Well, it is clear that the switch does not need to be switched to "On" for charging, it is included in the generator circuit of the BB, and not charging the battery.

But why does the LED not light up when external power is supplied? It is unlikely that it is faulty like this, with novya. Ah ... Here's the thing ... The LED, along with the wire going to the rectifier, just stupidly fell off the terminal: bad soldering. Well, it's clear now why there is no charge, and the LED is off. I will solder.

But since I partially disassembled the flashlight, I could not stop there. Moreover, I have already seen the end of a plastic cylinder, inside which two wires went. I guessed that this is a 400kv high voltage generator, as its description on Aliexpress says (review But if there is a voltage converter, then where is the battery? long enough that I can take out the transducer. And indeed, I took it out, but only together with the BB wires, which turned out to be quite short, and which I, it turns out, ripped out of the "crown" of the lantern. It was a surprise, because I thought that BB the wires are soldered to the contacts, but soldering turns out to be an unaffordable luxury in this case (in Chinese).

Well, he ripped it out and ripped it out ... It is impossible to put the explosive wires back in without further disassembly, so I continue to gut the lantern. From the side of the handle, you can see a plastic part - the holder of the button and switch, fixed with a retaining ring.

Just in case, I twisted the BB wires, leaving a gap of about 1 cm between their ends - if I decide to check the operation of the BB converter, it will not burn out due to the excess voltage at the output, which would be if the ends of the wires were separated in different directions. I could not stand it, and checked the disassembled discharge - there is a discharge.

But how to remove the plastic "crown" from the flashlight? I moved it, I feel a little backlash. At first I thought that the crown was glued, but it turned out that two self-tapping screws were hidden under a black strip with an inscription glued to the edge of the metal part of the lantern. He peeled off the strip, unscrewed the screws, took off the crown, and after it a plastic "bucket" with an LED, as well as a very remarkable battery, fell out onto the table.

At first, looking at the battery, I was very surprised: was it really produced in 2010? But for bourgeois, usually the first number is the year of manufacture, and it turns out that the battery comes from 2013. Since the flashlight arrived charged, then the battery may not be so bad, at least in terms of self-discharge. Its type and capacity from the marking "FEIYU 3.6v 1" are unclear, but it is 100% nickel-cadmium, and I measured about 3.8V for its three cans connected in series. What is the approximate capacity it can be? To prevent the battery from dangling, it was pressed with a cloth pad (visible in the photo). No insulation, even in one layer of electrical tape.

Also, there is no insulation at the super-duper LED driver - resistor, and a moving resistor could easily short-circuit the battery. But the fact that the resistor is present, as I understand it, is already good, sometimes the resistors are not put. I wrapped some electrical tape on the rezyuk.

I understood the reason for the appearance of a crack on the glass of the lantern: this is a self-tapping screw that entered the side surface of the transparent "cup". The reason is the crooked installation of the "glass" - if you put it evenly, the self-tapping screw only slightly touches its end, and does not lead to cracks.

I began to collect the lantern back. When disassembling, I completely in vain removed the "slider" (slider) from the flashlight mode switch, and the plastic sleeve with the switch and the shock button turned on inside the flashlight body.

At the same time, the top of the button popped out, and it took me some effort to put it back in place, turn the sleeve to the desired position and put the slider on the switch.

I must say that while fiddling with the disassembled flashlight, I was mentally prepared for the poorly soldered wires to fall off the switch or button, but nevertheless the soldering withstood, even though I pulled the wires in order during the study of the flashlight.

I stuffed the high-voltage generator back into the body of the lantern, stretched the wires to the crown. When screwing on the back cover, the self-tapping screws pass through the plastic of the high-voltage generator housing, preventing it from dangling. The wires to the aluminum contact inserts in the corona are not connected in any way; the design simply provides a certain small distance between the BB wires and the corona contacts. At the same time, it cannot be guaranteed whether or not there is electrical contact - this is a will of chance. If there is contact now, then with strong vibration, blows of the flashlight, and falling, the wires can "run away", and an extra spark gap will appear. In the explosive wires of my generator, the cores were even slightly deepened into the insulation, respectively, in addition to the visible external discharge, there were also small discharges inside the plastic crown, as evidenced by burn marks left by discharges on the aluminum of the inserts. To prevent the aluminum inserts from popping out during vibration, etc., it is advisable to grab them with glue.

To increase the likelihood of electrical contact between the explosive wires and the plates, I cut off the insulation so that about 0.3mm of the central core of the wire protruded from it, inserted the wires into the holes in the crown, and put the crown in place. This operation had to be repeated, since when installing the crown a couple of times the wires slipped out of their destinations. There is no way to fix the wires better, since they are too short. It was possible to drip glue, but I did not, you never know I have to disassemble (almost certainly).

Well, it seems like everything ... The lantern has been assembled so far, everything works, shines, sparks, but has not yet charged, and the main question is how long it takes to charge this battery of unknown capacity. If anyone has worked with this and knows its capacity, please tell me. I did not find anything similar in designation.

Even before opening the flashlight, I wrote on TinyDeal that the flashlight is faulty, does not charge, I attached a couple of photos in which the flashlight is plugged in, and the "charging" LED is off. The reaction of the store was interesting. In general, after some dispute with TinyDeal, I was offered a $ 7 refund in the form of TD points.Or, when ordering over $ 45, TD promised to send one more such flashlight-shocker free of charge, which is very strange: this flashlight has had the status of "sold" for a long time. Since I already looked after one flashlight for myself on TD (just a flashlight, without a shocker), I agreed to return 7 bucks, especially since I do not plan to buy anything large there in the near future.

Maybe someday, if I get my hands on it, I'll remake this flashlight for a lithium battery with a USB charging controller and a normal LED driver, and maybe with a different LED. However, in order to supply a more powerful LED, it will be necessary to grind out a heat sink adapter to replace the native plastic holder. The main question is - which lithium-ion battery or battery of accumulators will fit here, what format? Certainly not an 18650, so maybe installing a more powerful LED doesn't make sense.

Perhaps the first modification of the flashlight will be its alteration to charge the battery from a voltage of 5V from USB, you just need to put a resistor, maybe even stick a mini-USB connector into the flashlight. The charging time will be significantly reduced, although this time will need to be controlled by yourself, but most importantly, the likelihood of fireworks when charging from the mains will decrease. I haven't done it yet.

Before buy stun gun, most buyers wonder how difficult it will be to renovate in case of breakdown. Before buying a shocker, sellers are asked questions about the terms of the warranty and the availability of service centers no less often than questions about the features of the weapon and the methods of its use. These questions sound about the same and do not depend on gender or age of the person who decided buy shocker.

But the answers to them may differ, depending on where and what kind of shocker you buy. Sellers Chinese devices and shockers produced in nameless artels and workshops will assure you that any master of any workshop can handle the repair of a shocker. But, they will add, you will not need to repair it, since the "manufacturer guarantees", etc. etc. Meanwhile, they will diligently bypass the question of what exactly the manufacturer guarantees and where "any workshop" is located, where you could turn in case of a breakdown. You will also not receive intelligible contact information and any other information about the manufacturer and service centers.

This is understandable: such shockers were produced and imported into the country illegally. And, of course, no one will take responsibility for their quality and repair.
But difficulties with repairs are not the only and not the main problem that you may face. First of all, such a purchase automatically makes you a lawbreaker. The RF Law "On Weapons" allows citizens to buy and use as self-defense weapons only shokers made in Russia by licensed manufacturers. Thus, when buying a Chinese or unlicensed shocker, you breaking the law.

If you nevertheless decide to buy a shocker, closing your eyes to the requirements of the law (they say, no one will know), then you will face another problem. Counterfeit Shockers either insufficiently effective as a weapon of self-defense, or, conversely, may turn out to be deadly.

The effectiveness of a shocker depends on the balance of such characteristics as power, voltage, sparking frequency. Violation of the balance in one direction or another turns the shocker into either a useless "rattle" or into a deadly device.

To strike this balance, official manufacturers conduct meticulous research before putting a shocker model into production. Careful control is also carried out at all stages of production. All this requires the use of modern expensive equipment and high quality electronic components.

Of course, clandestine manufacturers won't bother with all of these questions. Their goal is to sell you weapons. And how effective it will be, they no longer care.

But this should concern you.Buy shockers only from official Russian manufacturers. This will protect yourself from many problems, both legal and criminal.

Moreover, the repair of such shockers will not cause you any inconvenience! The company "Mart" offers unique conditions of warranty service for its products: if during the warranty period (2 years) any flaw is found in the shocker, "Mart" simply replace it with a new one.
For any questions regarding the performance of warranty obligations, please contact Service center, or according to the contacts indicated on the company's website.
We wish you safety!

Stun gun - the device is very useful, but what is sold in the store will not protect you in real "combat" situations. It is worth reminding once again that according to GOST, civilians (mere mortals) cannot wear and use electroshock devices, the power of which exceeds 3 watts. This is ridiculous power, which is only enough to scare away dogs and drunken drunks, but not for defense.
An electroshock device must be highly effective in order to protect its owner in all situations, but in the store, alas ... no.

So what is to be done in this case? The answer is simple - to assemble a stun gun with your own hands at home. Some of you may be wondering: Is this safe for the attackers? Safe if you know what to collect. In this article, we will propose a shocker that has a titanic power output of 70 watts (130 watts at peak) and can kill anyone in a split second.

In the passport data of industrial electroshock devices, you can see the parameter - EFFECTIVE EXPOSURE TIME. This time directly depends on the power. For standard 3-watt shockers, the exposure time is 3-4 seconds, but naturally no one has yet been able to hold it for 3 seconds, because due to the negligible output power, the attacker will quickly figure out what is wrong and pounce again. In this situation, your life will be in jeopardy and if there is nothing to defend with, then the consequences can be tragic.

Let's move on to assembling a stun gun with our own hands. But first, I want to say that this material was presented on the network for the first time, the content is completely author's, thanks to my good friend Eugene for the suggestion to use a push-pull multiplier in the high-voltage part of the push-pull multiplier. A serial multiplier (often used in shockers) has a rather low efficiency, and in this case, power is transmitted to the attacker's body without much loss.

Below are the main parameters of the stun gun:

Stun guns are durable and reliable devices capable of providing your effective protection for more than one year. But technique is technique and sometimes it breaks down. In this case, our specialists are always ready to help you!

Repair of electric shock is one of the main directions of our activity! If your weapon for any reason has ceased to function or is not working properly - hand it over to us and you will receive a fully functional device back!

Usually, the cost of repairing a stun gun ranges from 350-700 rubles, the user receives a serviceable weapon within 2-3 days from the moment we received it. But sometimes, due to improper operation and non-compliance with the charging instructions, the device may become completely unusable - it will be impossible to repair the shocker.

But even in such a situation, we do not leave our clients! We can exchange your broken spark gap for a completely new working shock with a surcharge, the size of which varies depending on the model.

In some cases, it is unprofitable to repair a stun gun for various reasons. If you do not want to waste extra time, but want to immediately get a new weapon instead of the broken one, just contact us by phone and we will inform you of the amount of the surcharge and other nuances!

We always try to find a solution to the problem that will be the most profitable and convenient for you!

The stun gun is an excellent weapon for self-defense. Today it can be bought by any individual who has turned 18 years old, it is quite legal! Shocker does not require additional documents from the side of the buyer and its use is legal. The stun gun is intended for active defense against robbers and hooligans, but it's not that simple. The fact is that the law of our country does not allow us, mere mortals, to carry stun guns with a power of more than 3 watts. The voltage of the shocker (arc length) does not matter and is intended only for the breakdown of clothing, it follows from this that a shocker with a voltage of several million volts in a difficult moment can be just a toy. Really powerful shokers use only organs, if you have a “police” shocker, you don't have to read this article, and I ask everyone else to warm up the soldering irons and prepare the parts for the device.

I present to your attention the design of a stun gun with a power of 7 - 10 watts (depending on the power source), which you can make with your own hands. The design was selected as the easiest one so that even beginners can cope with it, the selection of parts and materials is also available to beginners.

The voltage converter is made according to a blocking generator scheme on one transistor, a reverse conduction field-effect transistor of the IRF3705 type is used, which allows squeezing “all the juices” from the power source, IRFZ44 or IRL3205 transistors can also be used, there is almost no particular difference. Also, you need a 100 Ohm resistor with a power of 0.5-1 Watt (I used a 0.25 Watt resistor, but I strongly advise against repeating my mistake).

The final and most important element of the converter is the step-up transformer. For the transformer, a core from a switching power supply from a DVD player was used. First, we remove all the old windings from the transformer and wind new ones. The primary winding contains 12 turns with a tap from the middle, that is, first we wind 6 turns, then we do it, we twist the wire and wind another 6 turns on the frame in the same direction, the diameter of the primary winding wire is 0.5 - 0.8 mm. After that we insulate the primary winding with 5 layers of transparent tape and wind the secondary one. Both the primary and secondary windings must be wound in the same direction. The secondary winding contains 600 turns of wire with a diameter of 0.08 - 0.1 mm. But we do not wind the wire in bulk, but using a special technology!
Every 50 turns we put insulation with tape (in 2 layers), so the transformer will be reliably protected from breakdowns in the high-voltage winding. A transformer wound using this technology does not need pouring, although just in case it can be filled with epoxy resin. We solder a stranded insulated wire to the terminals of the secondary winding. It is advisable to install the transistor on a small aluminum heatsink.

After the converter is ready, it needs to be tested. To do this, we assemble a circuit without a high-voltage part; there must be a “burning current” at the output of the transformer, if it is, then everything is working. Next, you need to solder the voltage multiplier. Ceramic capacitors have a capacity of 4700 picofarads, the capacity is not critical, the main thing is to choose capacitors with a voltage of at least 3 kilovolts. With a decrease in the capacitance of the capacitors, the frequency of the discharges increases, but the power of the shocker decreases, with an increase in the capacitance, the frequency of the impulses decreases, instead, the power of the shocker increases. The diodes in the multiplier need high-voltage KTs106 type, they can be obtained by breaking the multiplier of a Soviet TV or simply bought on the radio market.

Next, we connect the multiplier to the converter according to the circuit and turn on the shocker, the arc should be 1 - 2 cm (if you use all the ratings that are indicated in the circuit). The shocker makes loud bangs at a frequency of 300 - 350 Hertz.

As a power source, you can use lithium-ion batteries from mobile phones with a capacity of 600 mA or more, it is also possible to use nickel batteries with a voltage of 1.2 volts, four nickel-metal-hybrid batteries with a capacity of 650 mA were used in my design, due to a powerful field-effect transistor the batteries work under heavy load (close to the short circuit), but nevertheless their capacity is enough for 2 minutes of constant operation of the shocker, and you will agree very much for such a compact and powerful stun gun!

Installation is carried out in any convenient plastic case (luckily I had a suitable case from the old Osa stun gun at hand). The high-voltage part of the circuit must be covered with silicone (for reliability). The bayonets will be a trimmed fork, nails, or a screw. The stun gun must be supplemented with a switch and a momentary button, this is necessary to avoid self-activation in the pocket.

In the end, a few words about the parameters of the shocker - the voltage across the arresters is over 10 kilovolts, the breakdown of clothes is 1.5 - 2 cm, the average power is 7 watts, the shocker is also supplemented with a built-in charger and an LED flashlight, the charger circuit is taken from a Chinese LED flashlight. The switch has three positions, the LED must be connected to the power source through a 10 Ohm resistor (so as not to burn the LED).

This shocker turned out to be quite compact due to the multiplier and is quite suitable for our beloved ladies. Compared to factory stun guns, which are sold in stores, our shocker is much more powerful, and if you still want to increase the power, you can increase the power supply to 7.2 volts, because a lot also depends on the capacity of the batteries.