We carry out work when replacing the hinge, its cover and lubrication.
We remove the drive from the car (see here).
When replacing the cover, we clean the hinge from the outside and clamp the shaft in a vise with soft metal jaw pads.
With pliers we squeeze the small clamp by the protrusions and, prying with a screwdriver, we disconnect it.
Remove the large clamp in the same way.
We shift the protective plastic casing and rubber boot along the shaft.
We clean and wipe the end part of the hinge from the old grease.
Through a soft metal drift, we knock down the hinge, striking at the end of the clip.
The punch must not apply force to the cage or balls to avoid damaging them.
The hinge is fixed on the shaft with a retaining ring located in the groove at the end of the shaft.
Pry off the retaining ring with a screwdriver.
We separate the rubber protective cover and the plastic casing.
To replace the thrust ring...
Install the hinge in reverse order.
When installing the old hinge, we first clean it of grease.
Having cleaned the shaft, we apply a thin layer of new SHRUS-4 grease and put a casing and a new cover on the shaft.
We put 60 cm 3 grease SHRUS-4 into the hinge cavity.
Through a soft metal drift we press the hinge onto the shaft.
We put a cover on the hinge body. We install new clamps (before tightening the clamps, we release excess air from the cover by prying off the landing belt of the cover with a screwdriver).
Since the front suspension and drive axle of the Niva 2121 are designed similarly to the front-wheel drive family of the concern, it will not be possible to avoid the breakdown of the CV joints. The ending resource is indicated by:
As a rule, it withstands an element in an emergency state for a long time. However, in this case, no one can give a guarantee when the “grenade” itself or the bearing falls apart. The total resource is often equal to the total mileage of the car for the entire time of use, but in the majority it is rented to 120-130 thousand km.
The increase in the wear rate is due to the peculiarities of driving (frequent and intense acceleration with the steering wheel turned out), as well as the ingress of sand and dirt through damaged anthers to the bearings.
Depending on the year of manufacture, Niva 2121 can be equipped with CV joints with 22 or 24 splines. Until 2002, the first version was distributed, after 2002 - the second. According to another version, 22-slotted "grenades" were distributed until 2007.
The correct way to determine the type is to remove the hub cone washer by hand counting.
Operating experience shows that AvtoVAZ produces the best quality "grenades" for the Niva, and if you are sure of the origin of the product, it makes sense to pay attention to the products CORAM and Pilenga .
On a slightly jacked up car, the cap covering the hub is removed, the hub is completely unscrewed and the wheel nuts are loosened.
The wheel is hung out and dismantled.
The lower arm drops smoothly onto a sturdy block of wood.
The nuts holding the ball joint are removed (in the amount of 3 pcs). The outer CV joint shaft is carefully removed from the steering knuckle by pulling the latter back and up.
The steering knuckle is fixed with a wire to a suitable ledge. The lower shock absorber mount is released from the lever, after which it is necessary to raise the jack a few centimeters up.
Using pliers and a screwdriver, it is necessary to remove the collars of the anther of the inner CV joint, as well as the anther itself. Then the retaining ring located inside the “grenade” body is removed, the structure is removed from the car.
When the inner “grenade” is in your hands, you should collect the fallen bearings and place all the elements in a bath of kerosene, rinse thoroughly from dirt and old grease.
The shaft is released from the retaining ring that holds the inner race of the hinge, as well as the cage and cage.
With the help of a puller or modified pliers, the persistent ring is pulled off.
Carefully using a drift and a hammer on the end of the clip, the hinge is knocked off.
Next, the retaining ring is removed from the shaft.
All elements are washed in kerosene, cleaned with an iron brush.
After all the parts are defective, replaced with new ones and washed, installed in their places (except for anthers), they are treated with SHRUS-4m grease. The average flow rate for the external is 60 cm3, the internal one is 150 cm3.
Instead of standard clamps, it makes sense to use screw clamps. Also, at the end of work, replace the hub nut with a new one and adjust the bearing clearance.
VIDEO
A distinctive feature of Niva cars, both the usual VAZ 2121 and Chevrolet, is the presence of CV joints of the front axle drives. In fact, the design is quite similar to any front-wheel drive VAZ.
As with any other car, grenade malfunctions immediately make themselves felt. And the first thing that will be a symptom is:
the appearance of clicks when starting off and abruptly stopping
the appearance of a crunch when starting off with the steering wheel turned all the way
crunching even when driving in a straight line at high speed - especially when hitting smooth bumps in the road
Many Niva owners are accustomed to trusting such repair work to specialists at the service station, but everything can be done in garage conditions, having a list of necessary tools at hand.
Well, then everything is done in the following order:
We remove the wheel, after raising the front of the car with a jack
We unscrew the fastening of the ball joint to the lever to release it.
We unscrew the hub nut and remove the CV joint from the hub
For greater accessibility, it is better to remove the drive assembly: pry the inner grenade with a mount and pull it out
After that, the entire drive assembly is removed.
We clamp the drive in a vice
With the help of special tongs, we get rid of the anther clamps (if necessary, we change them later for new ones)
With light blows of a hammer, we knock down the desired CV joint from the drive, applying the impact force to the outer clip
Usually, after a couple of light blows, the CV joint goes off without any problems and you can replace it with a new one. Once again it is worth noting that it is better to inspect the anther for damage and, if necessary, also change it to a new one.
A new CV joint is stuffed in the same way, until the retaining ring clicks.
It is worth noting that as a result of the assembly of the drives, it is necessary to push lubricant into the inner part of the CV joint, such as a CV joint or lithol (in extreme cases). If this is not done, then wear will occur much faster than if the required amount of lubrication is present. Also, pay attention to the integrity of the protective anthers of both the inner and outer grenades. If you see that the anther is damaged, it must be replaced with a new one.
Installation on the car occurs in the reverse order of removal. Also, do not forget to install all the removed parts during the repair process.
The price of a new internal CV joint is from 800 rubles, but the outer one will cost almost twice as much: from 1400 rubles. If we consider the purchase of complete drives, then one can cost you at least 3,500 rubles, and a pair, of course, about 7,000 rubles.
In the article, we examined the removal and installation of the front wheel drives in the article - “Replacing the front wheel drives”.
In this article, we will consider the replacement of the angular velocity joints of the front drive VAZ-2121.
We prepare the car for repair. We install on a viewing hole or on a lift.
We remove the drive from the car. We clean the hinge from the outside and clamp it in a vice with soft lining.
Since basically the outer hinge is most often changed, then we will consider this operation first of all.
1. With pliers or tongs, we squeeze the small clamp by the protrusions and, prying with a screwdriver, disconnect it.
2. In the same way, remove the large clamp.
If the protective cover is fastened with plastic clamps, then we simply bite the clamps with the help of side cutters.
3. We shift the protective plastic and rubber cover along the shaft.
We clean and wipe the end part of the hinge from the old grease.
4. Using a drift made of soft metal or a wooden spacer made of durable wood, knock down the hinge by striking the end of the clip.
We take into account that the punch should not transfer force to the separator or balls in order to avoid damage to them.
This is in the event that it will be necessary to put this hinge again on the shaft.
5. Remove the hinge. The hinge on the shaft is held with a retaining ring, which is located in the groove at the end of the shaft.
6. The retaining ring is usually sold as a kit with a swivel. Pry off the retaining ring with a thin screwdriver
7. Remove the retaining ring
8. Separate protective covers
9. Remove the rubber cover
10. Remove the plastic casing
11. If you need to replace the thrust ring, then remove it with tongs
Install the hinge in reverse order.
We clean the shaft and hinge from the old grease, apply a thin layer of new SHRUS-4 grease and put a casing and a new cover on the shaft.
Install a new retaining ring on the shaft.
We put 60 cm 3 grease SHRUS-4 into the hinge cavity.
Using a soft metal drift or a solid wooden spacer, we press the hinge onto the shaft.
We put on a rubber cover. Install clamps.
Before tightening the clamps, you need to release excess air from the rubber boot by prying off the seat band of the boot with a screwdriver.
The most common transmission problem on Niva cars is failure of CV joints drive. First symptoms may be mild , in the form of appearance a little crunch at the beginning of the movement with the steering wheel out.
If you do not replace the CV joint on the Niva in time, then the consequences can be disastrous, to the point that during the movement your drive will jam with all the ensuing consequences. To avoid this, it is necessary to replace the hinges in a timely manner, as well as constantly monitor the presence of lubrication in them.
So, for replacement, you will need at least the following tool:
Head 13, 27 mm
Ratchet and collar
Extension
Hammer
Chisel or flathead screwdriver
Jack
balloon wrench
As for the repair procedure, here are the main points below:
First of all, we raise the car with a jack (it is also desirable that it be on a viewing hole).
Using a screwdriver and a hammer, we knock down the protective cap of the hub nut and unscrew it.
Using a 13 wrench, unscrew the nuts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Now you can remove the drive shaft from the Niva front wheel hub. And to remove / replace the outer CV joint, we take out the retaining ring.
To release the inner one, you must first unscrew the three nuts securing the pressure plate.
Then we hook the plate with a screwdriver or a sharp chisel, and pull out the inner CV joint from the front axle gearbox housing.
Since the space between the shock absorber and the front suspension spring is minimal, it is not very convenient to pull out the drive assembly, so it can be separated.
If necessary, defective CV joints are knocked down and new ones are installed in their place in the reverse order.
It is imperative to apply grease, such as CV joint, to each of the grenades and securely fix the anther clamps.
The assembled drive is installed on the Niva in the reverse order.
To get acquainted with the difficulties that will await you when you have to remove the front drive shaft, watch the video:
Removing the drive shaft and replacing the inner CV joint on the Niva or replacing the drive assembly
The price of new complete drives starts from 3000 for one. If we consider the CV joint separately, then for the internal one you will have to pay from 900 rubles, and for the external one from 1600 rubles and more. The final price depends on the place of purchase and the manufacturer.
We carry out work when replacing the hinge, its cover and lubrication.
We remove the drive from the car (see Removing the front wheel drives).
Having removed the clamps, we shift the cover along the shaft.
We pry the retainer with a screwdriver ...
...and take it off.
We pry the balls with a screwdriver ...
... knock down the clip with a soft metal drift.
We wash the body, separator, clip and balls. Traces of corrosion, scuffing and dents on the tracks are not allowed. If they are found, replace the hinge.
The front wheel drives on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car are removed to be replaced in case of failure. As a rule, the cause can be either deformation, damage to constant velocity joints (CV joints) or damage to rubber anthers. When operating a car, special attention should be paid to the condition of the anthers, if they are damaged, then through a breakthrough, dirt can get into the lubricant, which, in turn, mixing with it, begins to work on the principle of sandpaper and, as a result, the allowable gaps increase, a knock appears, rattle when turning, up to its full departure.
The main symptom indicating a malfunction of the drive, with the exception of damage to the anthers, is the appearance of a characteristic rattle and knock, first with the steering wheel fully unscrewed, then with a weaker one and up to a straight-line state.
Prepare a standard set of tools, and then do the following sequence of actions:
First of all, it is necessary to drain the oil from the front axle gearbox.
Now you need to remove the cone bushing by unscrewing the wheel bearing adjusting nut.
Next, disconnect the lower shock absorber mount (see How to remove the front shock absorbers), after which we disconnect the lower ball joint from the lever.
Now nothing is stopping us and you can move the steering knuckle a little to the side, thereby removing the outer drive shank from the wheel hub.
Next, with a ring wrench for nineteen, we unscrew the bolt securing the front axle bracket to the right bracket for attaching the power unit.
We take out the bolt from its seat. After that, with a socket head for thirteen, we unscrew the three nuts securing the front axle bracket and the bearing cover of the inner hinge housing.
Now, when nothing interferes, we take the bracket aside and pry off the housing bearing cover with a small mounting blade for special tides made on the housing.
The connection between the cover and the gearbox housing is sealed with a gasket. Please note that it is not symmetrical and is installed in only one position.
Removing and replacing the left drive is carried out identically.
This completes the repair work on removing the front wheel drives on the VAZ 2121 Niva 2131 car. After completing the necessary repair or replacement, we carry out the installation in the reverse order.
If, during the diagnosis of the bridge, we find that the radial clearance in the bearings of the inner hinge housing exceeds 0.05 mm, then the bearing must be replaced.
According to the catalog numbers of the right drive oil seals - 21213-2301034; left drive - 21213-2301035.
Bearing numbers of the inner hinge housing - 2107-1701190-01; 2107-1701190-03; 2107-1701190-04; 2107-1701190-05
We carry out work on a lift or a viewing hole
Consider replacing the right wheel bearing.
We remove the front wheel drive (For removing and installing the front drive, see the article - “Removing and installing the front drive”).
Assembly of nodes is carried out in the reverse order.
VIDEO
Today we are discussing the issue of replacing CV joints with a VAZ 21213, which periodically need to be changed on every car, especially on an SUV like Niva.
We want to consider a technique that is the fastest and also the easiest to perform without the help of specialists. If necessary, while replacing the anthers of your Niva car, you can also lubricate spare parts.
1. Wash off the dirt and remove the clamps remaining on the part.
In the article, we examined the removal and installation of the front wheel drives in the article - “Replacing the front wheel drives”. In this article, we will consider the replacement of the angular velocity joints of the front drive VAZ-21213.
We prepare the car for repair. We install on a viewing hole or on a lift.
We remove the drive from the car. We clean the hinge from the outside and clamp it in a vice with soft lining.
Since basically the outer hinge is most often changed, then we will consider this operation first of all.
1. With pliers or tongs, we squeeze the small clamp by the protrusions and, prying with a screwdriver, disconnect it.
This method is one of the easiest and fastest ways to replace both anthers or one of them. Also, if necessary, you can replace the lubricant in the CV joints or the outer grenade.
Required tools: a set of open-end wrenches (including 13 and 17 2 each), variable-pitch pliers or just very large pliers, two flat screwdrivers - medium and thin, a hammer 600-800 g, a good drift from soft metal or CV joint puller, large or medium-sized vise (or assistant), CV joint grease-4, sufficient wiping material, plastic bag, stand under the lower front suspension arm. Preferably a viewing hole.
We install the car on the handbrake, you also need to install any counter-recoils under the rear wheels.We loosen the wheel nuts, jack up, remove the wheel. We substitute a reliable stop under the lower lever (I use a stack of short boards). We lower the jack, the lever is compressed. We unscrew the nuts and take out the three bolts securing the lower ball joint. We unscrew the lower shock absorber mount and push it all the way up:
Through a wooden block we knock down the chrome-plated cap of the hub. We unscrew the hub nut, first substituting a stop (hammer, for example) under the wheel stud so that the hub does not spin (you can loosen the nut at the very beginning, but it is not so convenient to remove the cap). We take out the conical washer. Grabbing the bottom of the brake disc, pull it towards you and take it to the side, while removing the axis of the grenade from the hub. We put the freed CV joint, as convenient, on the lower cup.
We go down into the hole. By turning the CV joint with your hand, we find a convenient position for grabbing the clamp protrusions with pliers:
Squeeze the clamp and slightly bend the hook with a screwdriver, remove it. We make marks on the body of the grenade and the shaft (with paint, or with a file - the main thing is not to get rubbed), so that later we insert the CV joint in the same way as it was, we remember the position well. The freed anther is moved away from the grenade as much as possible.
With a finger, we feel for the wire retaining ring inside the CV joint housing a, it is in the groove at the very edge, by touch we find the break of the ring, and prying it with a thin screwdriver we take it out:
For the shaft we pull the CV joint out of the housing:
If the lubricant does not need to be changed, you can put a plastic bag on the CV joint and wrap it around to prevent the balls from falling out and getting dirt (the balls are held only by the lubricant).
We leave the pit and carefully take out the released part:
We wash off the dirt. We remove the remaining clamps and cut off the anthers that need to be replaced:
We shift the plastic casing and anther of the outer grenade to the inner CV joint at. So that they do not interfere further, you can wrap them in a bag and fasten them. We clamp the shaft in a vice with the outer hinge to the bottom, remove excess grease.
Now we need to knock or press the inner race assembly with the hinge from the shaft. The radial protrusions shown with a screwdriver - this is the figured inner clip of the CV joint a:
Theory. The inner clip of the CV joint a is fixed on the shaft with two retaining rings: outer (at the very end of the shaft) of circular cross section; and internal, square section (it is slightly visible in the previous photo between the inner race and the shaft). When knocked down, the cage with a conical groove should compress the outer ring, drown it in the groove of the shaft and move on. If the impact energy is insufficient, the ring will open again and the clip will return to its original position.
Option 1. Using a soft metal drift and a hammer, lightly tap the clip around the circumference to center the outer ring, then, setting the drift as close as possible to the shaft, knock it down (you can hold it at a slight angle, it's not scary). The ideal option is if the assistant pulls the hinge shaft down. The blow must be strong enough and "long" - using all the momentum of the hammer. 400 g. I managed to knock down with a hammer only 4 times, although I hit from the whole shoulder - a heavier hammer is better. If it doesn’t go astray, the impact force must be increased, you can’t take it in quantity here.
Option 2. Use a puller. I bought it on the way to the garage, especially for the FAQ, 160 rubles, on the price tag there was a “CV joint puller 2108”. To be honest, I did not want to show the barbaric punch that I used before. There were vague fears about the puller, but as it turned out - in vain, I liked working with him, I was so carried away by the new toy that I forgot to take a picture before removal:
Remove the outer ring. Then carefully remove the inner ring from the groove:
We loosen the vise and with light blows of the hammer on the shaft we tighten the ring. The outer groove is narrower, the ring will not get stuck there:
As you can see, the rings and the shaft are not damaged:
If a lubricant change is necessary, we flush everything. The outer CV joint can be washed without disassembly, although this is quite a long time.It can be disassembled, for this it is necessary to mark with paint the relative position of the outer cage (case), separator and inner cage. Then turn the separator and the inner cage until the first ball comes out, take it out, and then take everything in turn in the same way. Then tilt the separator with the cage at 90 degrees, and, having caught the position, pull it out together with the inner race. Rinse, assemble the outer hinge and put 150 and 60 cc grease “SHRUS-4” into the housings of the inner and outer hinges. respectively.
Lightly lubricate the shaft and put on the anthers and cover. We clamp the shaft in a vice and put both retaining rings:
We install the hinge on the shaft, and, having felt the splines, lower it until it comes into contact with the outer retaining ring:
Using a hammer, preferably through a soft metal spacer, we hit the CV joint shaft a and put it in place (do not try to screw hub or other nuts onto the thread - either ruin the nut or the thread). We check the fixation of the hinge in both directions with our hands. I didn’t have a soft spacer, so I scored like this, after three fairly strong blows, as we see, nothing happened to the shaft - the metal is hard:
We put the anthers in place (the installation location of the clamps on the shaft corresponds to the deepest groove). We put the clamps in such a way that, when moving forward, the grass would not cling to them (i.e., along the wool). The effort has to be made serious:
We install the finished product on the car, in the reverse order of removal.
All comments and so on can be sent to the Niva 4x4 forum / General technical section / It's time to change the CV joints.
The front wheel drives on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car are removed to be replaced in case of failure. As a rule, the cause can be either deformation, damage to constant velocity joints (CV joints) or damage to rubber anthers. When operating a car, special attention should be paid to the condition of the anthers, if they are damaged, then through a breakthrough, dirt can get into the lubricant, which, in turn, mixing with it, begins to work on the principle of sandpaper and, as a result, the allowable gaps increase, a knock appears, rattle when turning, up to its full departure.
The main symptom indicating a malfunction of the drive, with the exception of damage to the anthers, is the appearance of a characteristic rattle and knock, first with the steering wheel fully unscrewed, then with a weaker one and up to a straight-line state.
Prepare a standard set of tools, and then do the following sequence of actions:
First of all, it is necessary to drain the oil from the front axle gearbox.
Now you need to remove the cone bushing by unscrewing the wheel bearing adjusting nut.
Next, disconnect the lower shock absorber mount (see How to remove the front shock absorbers), after which we disconnect the lower ball joint from the lever.
Now nothing is stopping us and you can move the steering knuckle a little to the side, thereby removing the outer drive shank from the wheel hub.
Next, with a ring wrench for nineteen, we unscrew the bolt securing the front axle bracket to the right bracket for attaching the power unit.
We take out the bolt from its seat. After that, with a socket head for thirteen, we unscrew the three nuts securing the front axle bracket and the bearing cover of the inner hinge housing.
Now, when nothing interferes, we take the bracket aside and pry off the housing bearing cover with a small mounting blade for special tides made on the housing.
Carefully remove the inner joint housing from the axle gearbox and remove the wheel drive.
The connection between the cover and the gearbox housing is sealed with a gasket. Please note that it is not symmetrical and is installed in only one position.
Removing and replacing the left drive is carried out identically.
This completes the repair work on removing the front wheel drives on the VAZ 2121 Niva 2131 car.After completing the necessary repair or replacement, we carry out the installation in the reverse order.
Replacement of rubber protective covers of CV joints of drive shafts
Installing a new protective cover
1. Installing a hard plastic ring on the outer CV joint case.
2. The protective cover is put on after a new plastic bushing is seated on the shaft trunnion (shown by the arrow).
3. Landing the inner side of the cover on a plastic sleeve.
4. Planting a new retaining ring for fastening the CV joint into its groove on the trunnion of the drive shaft.
5. Fitting the CV joint onto the shaft pin (make sure that the assembly is securely fixed with a retaining ring).
6. Stuffing the CV joint with grease from the repair kit (the grease is squeezed out into the hinge while the latter rotates); when finished, seat the outer edge of the protective boot on the hinge assembly (the sealing collar of the boot should fit into the groove on the surface of the outer section of the CV joint).
7. Fixing the protective cover with an outer bandage tape using a hook and pliers (make sure that the slack is taken out completely).
8. Cutting off the excess bent end of the bandage tape.
9. The free end of the bandage tape is bent under its lock.
10. Pressing the lock to secure in this position.
11. Tightening the inner bandage tape for attaching the protective cover.
All front-wheel drive vehicles are equipped with such a part as a CV joint. It provides the transmission of torque from the gearbox to the axles of the front wheels. Most often it is used in conjunction with an independent suspension. However, on all VAZ cars with front-wheel drive, you can find a CV joint, which will be almost the same for all cars. If there are any differences in the structure of the part, then its replacement will be carried out according to the same scheme.
Important! If you decide to completely replace the CV joint yourself or change its individual parts, you need to understand its design, and only after that dismantle and then replace it.
Replacing the CV joint is an expensive procedure, which in the service center will significantly affect the thickness of the car owner's wallet. The part is made of heavy-duty materials that are resistant to mechanical stress and aggressive environments. Accordingly, these materials, like the part itself, are quite expensive. It is designed for durable operation, but not always the road conditions and the driving style of the drivers themselves allow you to operate all parts of the chassis for many years without the slightest breakdown.
And the price of replacing the CV joint will leave about half the cost of the mechanism. That is why many try to replace it on their own in order to save some money on repairs. But not everyone is born as auto mechanics, so a simple layman must first find out what parts the mechanism consists of. Here is their list:
separator;
balloons;
fist;
frame;
outer and inner anthers.
Anthers perform two functions at once, they protect the hinge from dust and dirt. Indeed, in fact, the CV joint is an external part, which is located on the bottom of the car. This means that when driving, all small particles fall on the hinges in the same way as on the rest of the chassis.
On each wheel drive there are two mechanisms that have almost the same structure, only slightly differ in shape and size. As a rule, the left and right CV joints are interchangeable on most car models. If you are in doubt, it is better to drive to a car service and ask if it is possible to buy left hinges for installation on a right-hand drive for a right-hand drive on such and such a VAZ model, or vice versa.
Sometimes the entire mechanism requires repair, but more often it is the outer one that has worn out, and the inner one, as a rule, is almost eternal. But sometimes, and it may require replacement.
The design of the mechanism is not so complicated. The separator scrolls the balls, which are located in the grooves of the fist and the outer casing. All this is covered by anthers that protect parts from dirt and dust, as well as from leakage of lubricant.When replacing the most difficult thing is to dismantle the mechanism itself so that you can install a new one entirely or change its individual parts.
First you need to raise the car on a jack and see if the boot has cracked. If it has visible damage, then a large amount of dirt has probably collected inside, which will cause an unpleasant crunch when cornering and starting with the wheels turned.
As a rule, in this case it is enough to clean and rinse with gasoline the internal parts, lubricate them, and put them back together. In addition to lubrication, it will also be necessary to change the anthers to new ones. But if you operate a car with dirt inside the CV joints for a long time, this can lead to their complete failure, which is why you should immediately sound the alarm at the slightest crunch. Do not forget that replacing a CV joint with a VAZ 2110 or any other car model will cost about 1,500 rubles, this cost is only for the part.
There is a proven way to diagnose joint wear. To do this, you can “start” with the wheels turned out, if at the same time you feel a clear crunch in the front of the chassis, then they will have to be changed. For complete reliability, you can still spin the car or start with slightly turned wheels. You will immediately feel whether the left or right mechanism crunches. If - both, then you will have to jack the car up and determine which one has play. If both hinges are loose, you need to prepare for decent expenses.
Signs of wear will be visible if the car is jacked up on the side where the crunch is heard. Then you need to grab the drive with your hand and shake it in different directions. If you feel a significant backlash, the bearings are definitely worn out, and you can get ready to buy a new CV joint.
Despite the fact that many motorists are not even aware of the presence of such a part in their car, as a rule, they themselves are the culprits for its breakdown.
It must be remembered that an aggressive driving style is the first reason for the failure of the hinges. In particular, these are constant sharp starts with the wheels turned out and driving in reverse with the same steering wheel position. In addition, we need to remember which roads we often have to travel on. If rough terrain is normal driving conditions, then the anthers should be checked more often than usual. In addition, timely replacement of lubricant in CV joints is the key to their long-term operation.
Aggressive driving, as you know, is also sharp starts. They are the cause of overheating of the CV joints, and where high temperatures - increased wear of parts, no matter what high-strength materials they are made of.
As already mentioned, all hinges for VAZs have one device and are practically the same. Replacement of this part will be carried out according to the same scheme.
It includes dismantling and installing a new one. Next, detailed instructions will be provided for replacing the internal and external CV joints.
While the car is still on the wheels, you need to loosen and break the hub nut. To make it easier to do, it turns out that someone needs to press the brake pedal.
Raise the car with a jack. This is done in order to get to the lower ball joint.
We knock down all the bolts of the lower ball joint.
With the help of a chisel (you can also use a hammer), we release the CV joint from the hub, for this you will have to make some effort.
Next, you need to release the part from the anther by unscrewing the nuts of both clamps that hold it.
We take out the CV joint together with the drive assembly.
After that, the drive must be clamped in a vice so that the hinge can be released from it. Next, we perform the following actions:
We turn the anther inside out or move it to the side until it stops.
We beat the clip with a hammer, in no case affecting the separator, otherwise the internal parts of the hinges can be damaged.
After that, the CV joint remains in your hands.
Here is a video with the replacement of the external and internal CV joints on the VAZ 2110:
VIDEO
And this is a video on replacing a CV joint with a NIVA:
VIDEO
From these videos, we can conclude that the procedures are practically no different.
If we talk about other models of front-wheel drive cars, even from foreign manufacturers, then the replacement of this part will look almost unchanged, with the exception of minor nuances during disassembly.
In this situation, the most difficult thing is to dismantle the drive together with the hinges in order to subsequently replace the outer CV joint or the inner one, depending on the condition of both parts.
If you only need to replace the anther, then this operation will need to be done anyway, since it is necessary to remove the unnecessary one, and then install a new anther without removing the CV joint from the drive.
If you change the old CV joint to a new one, you need to take care of the presence of lubricant in it. There must be at least 40 cm3 of SHRUS grease in the outer joint, and at least 80 cm3 in the inner joint. As a rule, new mechanisms are commercially available without lubrication. Therefore, you need to carefully lubricate all the parts, then fill all the cavities well with grease, and only after that - mount them in place.
A new or washed hinge with fresh grease is mounted in reverse order using all the same tools and fixtures.
For example, replacing a CV joint bearing with Chery Tigo will not differ in the procedure from the same process performed at NIVA.
Video (click to play).
All these actions can be performed without having much experience in car repair. The main thing is to follow the instructions and love your car.
