This chuck is used for clamping bits with a cylindrical shank. This chuck is easy to install. It installs with just one hand. It is used for drills with a diameter of one to ten millimeters. This is a movable structural element in the tool, so it often breaks. To disassemble it, you need to read the tips described at the beginning of the article on disassembling the cartridge with a hex wrench and a Phillips screwdriver. The price of this item is around $20. e.
The material of this article turned out to be voluminous.Here we described all the possible problems that arise during the operation of Makita screwdrivers, told how to fix them on our own, and separately talked about the various structural elements that make up the basis of any screwdriver. The materials of the article provide diagrams of the gearbox and the general device of the screwdriver. We hope that the information will be useful to you.
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First some lyrics
It was decided, the device was bought, the possibility of a “moneyback” was discussed
Already at home, having stripped the battery, the first discrepancy was found - weight, by weight, the battery is 75-80% worn out, but in fact 5-10 the initial weight varies greatly from the batch and release date of the battery cells, I’ll just say the heavier the better, the difference between new and completely dead batteries is about 80-60g in old releases, even less in new ones.
Let's take care of the surgery of the apparatus, in this example it is easy to learn how to maintain your instrument yourself.
In order not to get into the corner of horrors, the screwdriver was first disassembled, blown, and the first stage of the gearbox was disassembled earlier, washed and assembled back.
at Makit, most of the tools are easily opened, there are no latches, wedge hooks and other unnecessary things like other manufacturers
Pay attention when removing the trigger mechanism - it simply pulls out of its grooves, but still try to gently release it from the reverse switch (lower arrow) and take a closer look at the small piece of iron (on the upper arrow) - this is the torque lock spring, it is easy to lose
carefully grasping the cartridge and the engine, we remove it, we try to be more attentive to the speed switch (arrow) and it is recommended to immediately unfasten it from the process on the gearbox by prying the rear spring (two of them) under the switch with a thin object
the engine is attached to the gearbox in a simple bayonet way, we turn the engine and gearbox towards about 10 degrees and everything unfastens
stripped from the body, a screwdriver without a gearbox: reverse switch, motor-trigger-block, speed switch (when removing, do not lose both springs, they are hard to lose, but possible)
rear view of the engine
we put the gearbox “on the butt” and see the gearbox cover, it is also fixed bayonet and can be easily removed by unscrewing counterclockwise by 10-15 degrees, taking the holes with tweezers
we removed the cover, we see 3 satellites, planted on the carrier and the ring gear with X-shaped hooks on the body, you do not need to write down the positions of the gears, this is a quality tool
remove 3 satellites and carrier, we already see 5 satellites of the next stage of the gearbox
remove the ring gear with X-shaped hooks, and we see the same 5 satellites closer, pay attention to the pins (there are 4 of them at 90 degrees) 2 clearly visible ones are marked with arrows, the process of the speed switch is marked with a circle
we pull out the rim by the process of the speed switch along with the ring gear sliding along it on the pins (do not lose the pins, they are small, hardened - you won’t get off with wires), the loss of just one pin leads to the purchase of a new gearbox), we also see the removed 5 satellites and their carrier
We figured out the first stage of the gearbox, it was washed in advance, but starting from the second stage, trash already begins, nothing was prepared in advance from this node and below, we see 5 satellites and old dirty grease
we screw the plastic case of the 1st stage, we see the worn teeth of the stopper of the gear selector carrier on the case - this indicates either an accidental shifting of gears on the go or a systematic failure to engage gears until it clicks
after removing the first stage housing, one distance ring is visible (the fewer of them, the better, there were 5 rings of different thicknesses), as well as 5 satellites, a crown
we remove the carrier and 5 satellites, it is already clear that the carrier from the other end has an X-shaped hook instead of a gear, the roller lock mechanism opens up, by the way - the roller lock is considered the simplest and most reliable, but not the cheapest - a precision thing, other manufacturers have bollards on a yoke made of a strip of spring steel or on spring-loaded pawls
we remove the distance ring and the ring gear, which already has 6 teeth from the bottom and is the power element of the torque regulator, inside the gearbox we see pusher balls (they are paired, there are only 12 of them)
we remove the balls, 2 rollers and the blocker pusher, inside we see only the shank and the 6-beam glass of the blocker body
remove the blocker glass and get to the base of the screwdriver gearbox - the internal thrust bearing
we wash the extracted household (well, the parts of the 2nd stage) with heated white spirit, for this I recommend cutting a plastic bottle in half, pouring it on a centimeter of white spirit, holding it in boiling water, throwing in the details and covering it with a napkin for a short time without fanaticism, take out the washed parts with tweezers and rinse, also sloshing, in another glass with nefras (or better with galoshes), you don’t need to heat it, you don’t need to remove the unwashed glands from the spirit, clean it with a natural brush for artists, dry it on a napkin
we assemble it back, domestic Litol is quite suitable for lubrication (in correspondence, the manufacturer reluctantly recommended any non-aggressive grease for gears corresponding to the operating conditions, provided that the mechanism is tight), you can’t put a lot of grease, the screwdriver will start to “sweat” or worse, snot, attracting all the dirt, apply with a flattened cotton swab without cotton at the end, little by little - it is important to lubricate only the tooth heads, in no case shove the grease with tablespoons
remember the moderation of lubrication and do not forget the reverse assembly order
we unscrew the bayonet flange from the engine and also wash the flange with soap (all the dirt from the flowing air accumulates on the flange from the inside during operation), dry it, wash the shank itself with a nefras at an angle with a brush, preventing gasoline from getting inside the engine, you do not need to lubricate the shank
we check the gaps and below - everything should be as accurate as possible, at the very least we tighten the screws on the handle
A screwdriver can be safely classified as a tool that quite often has to be used not only in everyday life, but also for working on construction sites. But, like any complex technical accessory, the product can break. How to repair a screwdriver yourself, we will consider in this text.
Equipment in the construction market, where screwdrivers occupy a separate place, is quite large. Many models have individual criteria, are characterized by assembly quality and cost. However, most models are characterized by the basic principles of operation and internal design.
The basic elements of any screwdriver include:
the presence of an electric motor;
planetary reductor;
adjustable functional button "Start";
reverse switch;
effort regulator;
power unit.
The electric motor is powered by a DC network, structurally represented by a cylindrical shape.Inside is an anchor with brushes and magnets. A feature of the electrical circuit of the motor suggests that the direction of the supply voltage flow will be directed to the brushes. When the supplied polarity is reversed, the motor reverses.
The planetary gearbox is an important element capable of converting the high-frequency vibrations of the electric motor shaft into low-frequency revolutions of the cartridge shaft. As a rule, these parts are made of wear-resistant plastic or metal. Many screwdrivers are equipped with 2 speed gearboxes. Switching to the first speed mode is necessary for working with self-tapping screws, and at the second speed it is possible to drill in a wood, plastic base or metal.
The "Start" key starts the device. It is able to control the number of revolutions, providing the ability to choose the optimal rotation speed for the cartridge shaft. Accordingly, a strong pressure will drive the engine at high speeds, and with a decrease in pressure, the power criterion will weaken.
The reverse switch is necessary for carrying out operations to change the rotational direction of the screwdriver motor. This functionality is convenient to use not only for tightening, but also for unscrewing screws.
Regarding the force regulator, we can say that it determines the speed of tightening the screws. The current models provide a 16-step adjustable gradation, which allows you to determine with maximum accuracy and convenience what puff speed is relevant when working with different materials.
The screwdriver is powered by batteries of overall size, where the power of the supply voltage (depending on the model device) can range from 9 to 18V.
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the breakdown is related to the electronics of the device;
failure may be mechanical.
Understanding the objective causes of electrical breakdown, we can note its characteristic features:
the product stops responding to switching on;
the device has ceased to regulate speed;
reverse operation has failed.
Mechanical problems with a screwdriver include problems with wear of internal parts, for example, a characteristic ratchet of the mechanism is heard. As a rule, a faulty screwdriver will begin to make characteristic sounds, where, for example, bushings have worn out or a bearing has collapsed. Often this happens on a hammer instrument.
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For example, if the tool stops turning on, then initially you need to check the health of the battery. If the breakdown does not disappear when the device is based on charging, then you will have to arm yourself with a multimeter and start scanning the device in search of the root cause. First of all, take a look at the voltage value indicated on the case of the device and compare it with the measurements on the battery. The data should roughly match. If the voltage is too low, then most likely the problem lies in the charger or battery pack.
For example, the charger can be checked with a multimeter by plugging it into the network and taking measurements at the terminals of the device at idle. It is important that the voltage criterion be somewhat higher than the nominal one. In a situation where there is no voltage, then, unambiguously, the culprit of the breakdown is the charging unit. Screwdrivers of the company Interskol "get sick" with this rather frequent problem. In general, to fix the defect, you will need specific knowledge in electronics or you will need to purchase a new unit.
If you find a battery problem, for example, with a Makita screwdriver, you can open this block with your own hands, where the power elements are located.As a result of the opening, it is necessary to examine the connecting wires and make sure that the soldering is of high quality. If no visible defects are found, then using a scanner, voltage measurements in each element should be made. The values should show 0.9 - 1V voltage power. If a block with a low voltage indicator is found in a row, then it must be replaced.
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Quite often, problems with buttons are associated with poor contact at the terminals. You can simply clean the contacts with sandpaper and the problem will be solved. The main thing is that in the process of disassembling and assembling the device, do everything carefully, without losing parts.
Gearbox failure refers to one of the mechanical problems with a screwdriver. Some of the most common reduction block problems include:
physical curvature of the axis of the reduction shaft;
a clear defect in the working surface of the gears;
failure of the shaft support sleeve or the original bearing;
breakage of the pin where the satellites are fixed.
To correct these defects, it will be necessary to physically replace the defective parts, therefore, this type of repair should be entrusted to qualified specialists who are able to correctly and accurately diagnose the breakdown and eliminate it.
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One of the most popular tools for home craftsmen is a screwdriver. However, this device sometimes breaks down, like any other. If this happens, in some cases you can replace this tool with an electric drill. If the work cannot be done with an electric drill, you will need to take the screwdriver to a service center so that specialists can repair the tool. However, this can take a lot of time and money. Therefore, you can use another option - to repair a screwdriver with your own hands.
Screwdrivers are commonly used for furniture assembly both at home and in production.
Before carrying out repairs, you will need to familiarize yourself with the design of this device. On fig. 1 you can see this tool in disassembled form.
Elements that are needed in order to make a screwdriver:
multimeter;
clamps;
sandpaper;
spare items.
Figure 1. Screwdriver device.
The main element is the start button, which performs several functions: turning on the power supply circuit of the electric motor and the speed controller. If you press the button all the way, the motor power circuit will be closed by contacts, as a result of which maximum power will be provided. The number of revolutions in this case will also be the maximum possible. The device has an electronic regulator, which consists of a PWM generator. This element is located on the board. The contact, which is placed on the button, will move along the board depending on the pressure on the button. The level of the adjustable pulse per key will depend on the placement of the element.A field effect transistor is used as a key. The principle of operation will be as follows: the stronger the master presses the button, the greater the value of the pulse on the transistor will be and the more it will open and increase the voltage on the electric motor.
The rotation of the motor will be reversed by changing the polarity at the terminals. This process is carried out using contacts that will be thrown by the master using a reverse handle.
Charger for cordless screwdriver.
In screwdrivers, in most cases, single-phase continuous current collector motors are installed. They are reliable, easy to manufacture and maintain. An ordinary screwdriver consists of the following elements:
The geared design will convert the high RPM of the electric motor shaft to the lower RPM of the chuck shaft. Screwdrivers can have planetary or classic gearboxes. The latter are rarely used. Planetary devices consist of the following elements:
ring gear;
sun gear;
satellites;
carrier.
The sun gear is powered by the armature shaft, its teeth actuate the satellites that rotate the planet carrier.
A special regulator is used in order to regulate the forces that will be applied to the screw. Most often, 15 adjustment positions are used.
The main signs of a malfunction in this case will be:
screwdriver does not turn on;
it is impossible to switch the reverse mode;
it is impossible to adjust the number of revolutions.
Scheme of the device of the gearbox of a cordless screwdriver.
The first step is to check the battery of the screwdriver. If the tool was put on charge, but this did not help, then you will need to prepare a multimeter and try to find a malfunction with it. First you need to measure the voltage on the battery. This value should approximately correspond to the one indicated on the case. If there is an undervoltage, then it will be necessary to identify the faulty element: a battery or a charger. To do this, you need to use a multimeter. This device must be connected to the network, and then measure the voltage at idle at the terminals. It should be a few V more than what is indicated on the design. If there is no voltage, then you will need to repair the charging unit. If there is no knowledge in the field of electronics, it is recommended to purchase a new one.
If the battery is faulty, then you will need to disassemble the unit, inspect all the places where the wires are fastened and check their quality. If there are no damaged connections, you need to measure the voltage on all elements with a multimeter. The voltage should be 0.9-1V or more. If there is a part with a lower voltage, then it will need to be replaced. The capacity and type of the element must necessarily correspond to the installed parts.
Scheme of the internal device of a screwdriver.
If the charger and battery are working, but the screwdriver does not work, then this device should be disassembled. There are several wires coming from the battery terminals, you need to take a multimeter and measure the voltage at the input of the button. If voltage is present, then you need to remove the battery, use the clamps to short the wires from the battery. The device should show a resistance value that tends to zero. In this case, the element is working, the problem lies in the brushes or other details. If the resistance is different, then the button will need to be replaced. To repair the button, in some cases it is enough just to clean the contacts on the terminals with sandpaper.
In the same way, you will need to check the reverse element. Repair is carried out by cleaning the contacts.
If the electric motor runs at high speeds, while the speed cannot be adjusted, then the problem may be in the button or the transistor that is used to adjust.
The device of the gears of the screwdriver gearbox.
If the chains to the engine are working, but the screwdriver does not work, then the problem is in the brushes. If these elements are worn out, they will need to be replaced.
The problem could be in the engine itself. To test the electric motor, you will need to disconnect the wires that are connected to the button. Next, using the same tool, you need to measure the resistance value at the wire fixing contacts. If the value tends to zero, then the winding is broken. In this case, you will need to rewind or install a new electric motor.
You will need to check the condition of the armature windings, since this element can be purchased and changed by yourself. To check the anchor, it will be necessary to measure the resistance on adjacent collector plates, around the entire perimeter. The value should tend to zero. If, during the verification process, plates with a resistance that differs from zero are found, then the armature will need to be repaired or replaced.
Mechanical problems can be defined as follows:
During operation, the screwdriver makes extraneous sounds that were not there before.
The tool vibrates strongly during operation.
The fight of the cartridge for the clamp.
The tool turns on, but cannot be used due to jamming.
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If during operation the device makes extraneous sounds, this means that the bushings or the bearing are worn out. To fix this, you will need to disassemble the electric motor, and then check the integrity of the bearing and the wear level of the bushing. The anchor should scroll freely, there should be no friction or distortion. These devices can be bought at a building supermarket and replaced by yourself.
The most common gearbox failures include the following:
shaft failure;
abrasion of the working base by gears;
a break in the pin on which the satellite is fixed.
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In all cases, it will be necessary to replace the defective elements of the gearbox. All of the above steps must be followed carefully. The screwdriver must be disassembled in a clear sequence, otherwise any of the parts may be lost.
Anyone can repair a screwdriver, you just need to correctly identify the faulty element.
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