DIY pvc boat seam repair

In detail: do-it-yourself pvc boat seam repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

I did not keep track of the pressure in the cylinders, as a result, one seam in the nose compartment parted. About 5-7 cm. Having whipped it up with ordinary pvc glue, I got home with an etching seam. Now you need to peel off the gap again, remove fresh glue and restore the tightness of the compartment. There is a cloud about patching pvc information, but I did not find anything worthwhile about repairing seams. Who has information or personal experience?

Nobody faced such problems and did not solve them?

> Nobody faced such problems and did not solve them?

Here it is quite intelligible (though about the patch, but the algorithm is the same):
Link.

After tearing off the old patch, we pick out dead cockroaches, old "bulls", scraps of fishing line, rusty hooks, stones and other grains of sand from the remnants of glue, and wipe it with a clean rag dipped in 646th solvent. Everything, the surface is ready. The remnants of glue should not be confused, because they will not interfere.
Then we apply a prepared (treated with the same solvent) patch in advance, which will be equal in area (maybe a little more) to the area of the old glue, circle it with a pencil / pen / marker / etc.
Apply the first layer of glue. We step aside and light up a cigarette. You can safely smoke up to half an hour.
Apply the second layer. We light a cigarette again. And also on the sidelines. Minutes in. We check: if the finger is still sticky, open the second pack of cigarettes, if not, turn on the hairdryer, heat up the patch and place the sticker without fanaticism. Controlling is simple - if the glue starts to bubble with tiny bubbles, then enough. We put on the patch, trying not to confuse our boat with the boat of our neighbor and press / roll the patch with all the foolishness. Such as Sanych, AlexV, DimaM can be half-hearted. Trainee from all over. In parallel, you can slightly warm it up with a hairdryer. But, again, without fanaticism.
We leave until tomorrow.
If tomorrow, after inflating the boat, it will poison again, then either buy a new boat, or tear off the repairman's hands.

Video (click to play).

In order to avoid misunderstandings from readers and those who do not read: all of the above is purely my opinion. And if someone takes this as advice, these will be their problems ☺

And, I forgot, first you need to tear off what is poisoning.
Here, from the same place:

With an industrial hairdryer, gently, without fanaticism, warm up and the old patch will go away.
Standard method for repairing PVC boats.
In the same way, remove the entire hinge (eyes, patches, handles, etc.)

I glued a balloon on an air cushion.
Adhesive Moment Polyurethane Transparent.
The technology is described above.
There are adhesives with a heat stabilizer (he is rumored to be a “hardener”).
Such, if you stick it, then you tear off the horseradish, peel it off, even with a hairdryer, that is, "to death."

Yes!
Not 646, but acetone!
And do not “degrease”, but GRIND!
Rub with a rag with acetone until the pvc-material appears “dull”.
And do not touch with your hands, rub "rubbed".

Refurbish PVC inflatable boat, in most cases not so difficult... Such repairs can be done both at home and in field conditions. How to locate a cut or puncture site? How do I repair cuts, burns, and punctures? What kind of glue to use? What tools and materials will you need? More on this in the proposed article.

For reliable and high-quality gluing of PVC products, it is necessary to add a stabilizing additive "Desmodur" or "Polyisocyanate (PIC) grade B" to the glue. The proportion is 95-98% glue and 2-5% additive.

Before starting the repair, clean and dry the damaged area. The very place of damage and a small area around it must be cleaned with fine sandpaper and degreased... Then you need to carefully flatten the area to be repaired by placing a board, a piece of plywood or some other flat surface under it. After that, you need to mark with a pen or marker the location and orientation of the future patch.

To repair small punctures (burns) in PVC, a patch should be cut out, the diameter of which would exceed the size of the puncture 2-3 centimeters... The shape of the patch can be round or oval, no corners.

Large punctures are repaired in the same way as in the previous case, but two patches are already needed... For the best result of repairing such damage, after the glue has completely dried, another patch 2-3 cm larger than the first one can be glued to the outer patch.

Repair of bottom cuts, torn holes is done in the same way as in the first two cases. The only difference is that the patches are both from the outside and from the inside of the damage, and the damage itself before applying the patches should sew with coarse thread.

Apply glue to the degreased surfaces of the damaged area and patch in an even layer and in one or two minutes press the patch evenly and tightly to the damaged area. This repair method does not give the best result, but it is suitable for repairs under suitable conditions. It is advisable to repair the damage again at the end of the trip, using method 2 or 3.
Apply a layer of glue to the surfaces to be glued and leave for ten to fifteen minutes... Then apply another layer of glue to both surfaces. Let the glue dry so that it sticks slightly to your fingers. After that, evenly placing the patch on the damaged site, roll carefully, a smooth knife handle, or other object with a rounded shape, removing all air bubbles and bond irregularities.
As in the second method, apply two layers of glue to the surfaces to be glued. Allow the glue to dry completely. Then either put the patch in place of the damage and warm it up with a construction hair dryer (the surface should not be overheated, it should be warm, but not hot), or first warm up the damaged area, then the patch and then press the patch tightly to the damaged area. In both cases, it is necessary to carefully and strongly roll the surfaces to be glued with a roller. This method gives the most reliable repair result.

The video below shows how to apply a patch correctly when repairing the keel of a PVC inflatable boat. How to degrease surfaces, cut out a patch, mark the gluing point, glue, heat and roll the joint.

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Many anglers are interested in how to glue a PVC boat at home, because it is a little expensive to bring it to the service, and there seems to be nothing complicated during the repair process. This is indeed the case.

Before you start gluing the damage, you need to pay attention to the fact that glue like "Seconds" or "Moment" is not at all suitable for this purpose. These compounds are not intended for such work and will not provide the strength that is required - the patch will quickly come off. But the problem is that it is quite problematic to clean off such glue from the surface of the boat, so you will most likely have to put a new patch on the surface that is smeared with Moment. And this does not add reliability and quality.

Therefore, to repair damage to the boat, you should use the glue that comes with the repair kit or similar adhesives. It should only be taken into account that the "Uranus" in the set becomes soft in warm weather and the patch may come off.

There is nothing complicated in the process of gluing a boat at home. You just need to follow some generally accepted guidelines.And so, we decided that we won't write much, so here's a detailed step-by-step instruction on how to glue PVC boats at home.

1. Before proceeding with the repair, the boat must be dried, cleaned of dirt around the cut / puncture and spread out on a flat surface. Some advise to clean up the bonding area with sandpaper, but this should not be done - this will damage the coating and material of the boat and reduce its wear resistance.

2. Degrease the cleaned surface around the damage. It is best to use a solvent for this purpose. If it is not at hand, then acetone or alcohol will do.

3. Cut out a patch a few centimeters larger than the hole. It is better to use the material for the patch from the repair kit, or find a similar one. If in doubt, it is better to degrease the patch.

4. If this is a cut on the bottom of the boat, then it should be carefully sewn up with coarse threads.

5. Apply the damage patch as it is planned to fix it and trace it with a pencil to outline its borders on the boat.

6. Now we take the glue, best of all on a flat small brush, and apply it to the patch and the boat, inside the outlined outline.

7. We wait about 15 minutes for the glue to start hardening and apply a new portion of the adhesive on both surfaces.

8. After about five minutes, the areas where the adhesive has been applied should be warmed up with a hairdryer. You should be careful to warm it up and not dry it.

9. Now we glue the patch for damage, making sure that the surfaces with the glue applied coincide and gently iron with some hard object in order to press well and get rid of air bubbles that could get between the surfaces to be glued.

10. In the event that the cut is larger than five centimeters, two patches should be applied. One inside, the second outside according to the above method. And for greater strength and tightness, you can put two patches on top - the first is a couple of centimeters larger than the damage, the second is several centimeters larger than the first patch.

11. Carefully, so as not to bend the place of gluing, we send the boat to dry for a day, and preferably two.

There are times when the damage is just a scratch on the top layer of the boat, without any significant damage. You can simply fill it with glue from the repair kit, this will be enough. But you can, for greater reliability, put a small patch. This is, of course, if you are very worried about your favorite boat.

There are situations when the damage is significant and it is quite difficult to connect exactly the edges of the break (cut) of the material before gluing. Therefore it is recommended:

the damaged area is washed and dried;
laid out on a flat surface and degreased;
before gluing the damaged edges, it is better to sew them together, and only then show through to the main gluing stage.

With this elimination of extensive cuts and gaps, it is advisable to install two patches at once. This is a more complex repair, but one can handle it. One of the patches is glued on the inside, and the other is on the outside of the damage. A special hook can be used to make it easier to stick the patch inside the boat.

Having completely unscrewed the valve, through the hole, using a hook, glue the first patch. It is always glued to the inside of the boat, and then only the outer patch is glued. After completing the repair, you need to make sure that inside the walls of the cylinder they are not stuck together due to the ingress of glue on them. If, nevertheless, such a nuisance occurs, then carefully immediately it is necessary to pull the cylinder by the opposite sides.

To eliminate the gnawing of the boat on top of the outer patch, it is better to additionally glue a larger patch. It turns out that two patches will be glued on the outside at the place of damage. But there is no need to rush to glue the second one.Only after the glue on the previous patches dries well, you can glue the third one.

The damage to the bottom is quite specific. Their main culprits are driftwood, large tree branches, and rebar rods located in reservoirs. These cuts are ragged and complex in shape. Internal and external patches should also be applied when repairing them. And for precise joining of damaged edges, you can use thread to sew. The very procedure for carrying out the work is the same as when repairing ordinary punctures.

After drying and degreasing the boat seam and the place around it on both sides, a patch is cut out with a size slightly larger than the length of the damaged seam. Glue is applied to the patch in a thin layer. Then it is glued and immediately rolled with a roller. Excess glue that has come out can be removed with a cloth soaked in solvent. After the glue dries on the first patch, another one is cut out. Its dimensions are larger than the first, taking into account the fact that you can make a fold on the back side. After gluing it, you also need to roll the damaged area.

When the repair of the seam is finished, the boat should be inflated to check the quality of the work. Using a soapy solution, treat the repair site with it and check the air outlet. If all is well and the soap solution does not poison, then after 24 hours the boat can be used for fishing.

Most valve failures are due to mechanical stress. Your boat is blown off after fishing. Friends help you to collect payolas. And accidentally someone steps on the valve, under which there is a stone on the other side. Crackling, in such a situation, probably, hardly anyone will hear ...In order to replace the valve, you need a special key. I do not advise you to "pick out" the valve with improvised means, otherwise it can be damaged and then, in order to remove it, you will need three times more effort and time.If you do not have a “proprietary” key, then you can make it yourself. To do this, you need a metal or hard plastic tube with a diameter of 13 to 20 mm and a jigsaw, which will need to cut out the "teeth" to contact the inner surface of the valve. A small cylindrical hole can be made from above, where the "knob" is subsequently placed.So you're done! The boat's cylinders must be deflated. Feel through the material and firmly squeeze the counterpart of the valve, the so-called "glass", in your hand. Using a wrench, unscrew the valve body from the "glass". There are times when, as a result of long-term operation, the valve "sours" and does not twist out of the "glass". In this case, you can use a car spray "liquid key".Before inserting a new valve, it is useful to inspect the faulty one. Sometimes it is enough just to blow it out and rinse it in soapy water, and lubricate the "stuck" valve spring with a small amount of grease.If your old valve cannot be reanimated, then replace it with a new one.Holding the counterpart of the valve ("glass") with your hand, tighten the new valve using a wrench. Do not overdo it!The new valve must be screwed on tightly enough, but not tightly!
Firstly, it may have to be unscrewed someday, and secondly, excessive tightening force can easily lead to valve or key breakage.Inflate the cylinder and use a soapy solution to check the tightness of the connection. If air is poisoning from under the valve, then “squeeze” it with a key.In many bodies of water, taking into account their underwater landscape and other factors, a boat is indispensable for successful fishing and hunting.The most affordable option with minimal financial investment is PVC inflatable boats.One of their disadvantages in comparison with aluminum, wooden and plastic boats, given the material from which they are made, their failure in the process of improper storage and operation.In this regard, the issues of the possibility of repairing such boats in various conditions and its cost, the materials used for this and how to avoid repeated damage are relevant. Image - DIY pvc boat seam repair

The basic postulates should not be hooked when casting with hooks, not damaged by an accidental shot, not launched into the water in unexplored places, so as not to rip the bottom, not to swim in snags and reeds, to raise the engine in shallow water, so as not to tear off the transom, you can probably lower it. Everyone knows this, but not everyone, in the excitement of hunting or fishing, adhere to this.

Let's dwell on the moments before and after launching:

Council number 1. When inflating the boat, it is advisable not to overdo it, excessive pressure in the cylinders in the sun can lead to their rupture along the seam or in the place where the valve is installed.
Council number 3. Although PVC material is not afraid of moisture, for short-term storage, drying after washing the boat is encouraged.

A separate topic is preparation for winter (long-term storage) and ways to keep the inflatable boat intact until next season:

- First of all, it is advisable to thoroughly wash the boat with soapy water, removing fish scales, mucus, algae and other dirt, if the transom is removable, then remove and store it separately.
- Many people advise keeping it inflated during the off-season, but this is an anachronism, a habit that has passed from the past, when there were only rubber boats. Polyvinyl chloride perfectly tolerates temperature differences, withstanding -40 ° C in winter + 70 ° C in summer.
- When storing in sub-zero temperatures, it is enough to carefully fold the boat into a bag and if it is in the garage, try to find a place to store it inaccessible to rodents.
If it has happened to damage your craft, then you need to correctly and efficiently make repairs. You can glue the damage yourself at home, using high-quality glue, patch and following simple recommendations.

To glue a puncture, cut, replace a valve or other damage with your own hands, you will need:
- A PVC patch from a repair kit, usually sold with the boat.
- Little things like scissors, pencil and glue brush.
- If acetone is not available, nail polish remover will do.
- A hairdryer is desirable for construction, but it is also possible for drying hair.
- Roller, which, by rolling the place of gluing, you can expel air bubbles.
- A special wrench to unscrew the valve and, of course, the glue.
The question of what kind of glue to repair damage is very relevant. The glue tube included in the repair kit is of unknown origin.

Therefore, in order to properly glue the damage, it is better to purchase polyurethane glue for repair: Bostic (Bostik vinycol 1520), one-component SAR 306, two-component Molefix 8325 glue.
The process of repairing a puncture or small incision where the bottom of the boat or its cylinder is damaged is not very difficult.

Replacing the flow valve is a more complicated operation, but it's possible to do it yourself. Puncture repair:
- Step # 1. Cut the patch to size.
- Step # 2. Spread out and straighten the damaged area on a flat surface and degrease it and the patch with acetone.
- Step # 3. Brush both surfaces (patch and damage site) with Bostic glue or other similar and leave to dry for 15 minutes.
- Step # 4. The second time, after smearing the same surfaces with glue and waiting for about 5 minutes, slightly heat the patch and the place where it will stick with a hairdryer, this must be done quickly so as not to allow the glue to dry. Seal the puncture by pressing the patch firmly to the puncture site
- Step # 5. Having applied a patch to the puncture site, you can walk on it several times, removing possible air bubbles with a roller.
- Step 6. You can leave the sealed place, you can press down with something heavy, without bending for a day.
In nature, in high humidity, you can glue the damaged PVC boat, you can replace the roller with a bottle or can, and the hair dryer with a lighter.

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When carrying out repairs in the rain, the surfaces to be glued should be protected from moisture.

All other steps are performed in the same order as described above.
To repair long cuts more than 4–5 cm and torn holes in PVC surfaces, you will need two patches - from the inside (from the inside) and from the outside. All other actions are performed in the same sequence and with the same glue as when gluing simple punctures.

The same is done for seam rupture. The torn bottom, given the complexity of such damage, is sealed with patches on both sides.

An air valve rarely fails unless stepped on, breaking the valve body.
You can replace the valve yourself using a special wrench.

Having unscrewed the inoperative valve from the nest, and replacing it, you can safely pump up the boat and lower it into the water. The most difficult thing to repair on PVC boats is the unstuck transom and its replacement.

It is not recommended to repair the transom yourself, you can try it, but such a test can result in additional costs after an unsuccessful attempt.

Of course, the cost of self-repair will be limited, only, by the price of glue, and if there is no repair kit, even by the cost of consumables: patches, threads. In the service, these services can be dispensed with:
- Pasting a puncture will cost 200 rubles.
- Dispersed seams will be repaired depending on the length: 10 cm - 300 rubles, 20 cm - 450 rubles, etc.
- Gusts will cost depending on their complexity from 350 to 1000 rubles.
- The valve will be changed for 600 rubles.
- Replacement of the transom is estimated at 5500 rubles.
In order not to overshadow your fishing and avoid unnecessary expenses, try to adhere to simple rules:
- Do not ignore the advice on boat care and storage.
- Lower the boat and moor, having a good survey of the bottom in these places.
- Avoid snags and other underwater obstacles that could damage the boat.
- Cast the rod carefully so as not to damage the cylinders with the hook.
Information about the care of aluminum boats can be found here. We recommend that you read the detailed instructions on how to make a PVC boat awning?

The glue should be:
- durable, to create a waterproof seam;
- resistant to both dynamic and statistical loads;
- resistant to high temperatures so that the glue does not spread in the heat;
- elastic.
1. Cut out a small oval or circle 2 cm in diameter larger than the burned or perforated place from a piece of fabric in the repair kit.
2. Smooth the surface of the material, there should be no folds. Under the repair site, you can put a board, or a file.
3. The surface of the boat site for repair must be clean and free of grease, can be wiped with solvent, acetone, or alcohol. Do not use sandpaper and damage the boat.
4. Putting the patch on the puncture site, you should circle it with a pencil.
5. Then you need to grease both surfaces with glue, wait for it to dry.
6. After 15 minutes, repeat the procedure.
7. Bonding can be started 5 minutes after reapplying the glue.
8. The glue should be sticky, to activate it, you can slightly heat the area to be repaired with a lighter or hairdryer. This must be done carefully so as not to burn the gluing.
9. There should be no air bubbles between the materials to be glued; for this, you need to walk over the area with a roller or other blunt object at hand.
10. Leave the glued area until it dries completely, for about a day.
To locate the damaged area, the damaged compartment, lubricated with soapy water, must be immersed in water. From the puncture site, bubbles will begin to come out, or foam. They will indicate not only the exact puncture site, but also its size.

The boat needs to be prepared for repair; for this, take it ashore and dry it properly. The entire area around the damaged area is degreased, cleaned with sandpaper, carefully straightened so that there are no folds.

In field conditions, it is not always possible to use the best and most reliable method for gluing.

Use the view that is most appropriate for your position:
- Apply a layer of glue to the degreased surface, after standing for a couple of minutes, press firmly to the damaged area. The method is good for a while, but when you return home, repeat the gluing procedure again.
- Apply a layer of glue to both surfaces, leave for 10 minutes, apply a second coat of glue to both surfaces, wait a little again. The glue should stick to your fingers. Roll over it with a roller, another rounded object that is at hand. Irregularities and air bubbles should not remain under the gluing. This method is considered more reliable. Both surfaces are smeared with glue in two layers, after which the glue should be absorbed and dry completely. The patch is applied to the damaged area, warmed up slightly with a hairdryer, and pressed tightly. It is important to roll the gluing well with a roller, for this, pressing the roller, go over the place several times.
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On torn holes and cuts, a patch is applied and glued both from the inside and from the outside, which differs from the previous method of gluing:
- Cut out two equal-sized patches in an oval or round shape.
- Spread out and degrease the repair area.
- Draw the area with a pencil or marker.
- Apply glue to both parts in two layers, then proceed as in the above method. You can glue two patches at once on both sides, so it will be more reliable, cut the second patch in diameter slightly larger than the first. Cuts up to 15 cm in length can be eliminated using the material provided in the repair kit.
This problem occurs quite often on the river. You are sitting in a boat, and suddenly, the water inside begins to arrive.Fishing in such conditions will no longer bring pleasure, so the boat needs to be pulled ashore, dried in the sun and the bottom cut should be repaired. In this case, no glue is used, it is unlikely to have a long-lasting effect. The cut is sewn with very strong threads.

Of course, this is all about removing cuts on land. If you have to repair the unit in the field, then you will be able to use only a lighter and a repair kit.

The repair kit is a set of materials with which you can independently repair the boat in the field.

Considering that PVC fabric is a more than unpretentious material, an inflatable boat can be repaired even in the most difficult conditions.

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The standard repair kit includes a set of PVC fabric washers (usually with a diameter of 40 and 80 millimeters in an amount of 6 units) and a tube with a special adhesive for PVC. I must say that absolutely all PVC boats are equipped with repair kits, so you don't have to choose it yourself. If you run out of fabric or glue, it’s best not to throw out the tube, but leave a piece of fabric as a sample.

Unfortunately, most often the glue in the repair kit ends or becomes unusable. If you cannot find exactly the same as the previous one, then we advise you to use some recommendations.
- First, the adhesive must create a strong waterproof seam.
- Secondly, it is obliged to withstand the static and dynamic loads to which the boat will be subjected.
- Finally, it must be thermally stable. If you do not want your patch to come unstuck during storage of the boat in winter and not "float" in summer, be sure to take into account the thermal resistance parameter.
- The adhesive must have sufficient elasticity.
This video presents the choice of glue for repairing an inflatable boat from a practical point of view: several patches of various types of glue were glued to a piece of pvc in accordance with all gluing rules, and left to dry. Then they were tested by the sun. Which glue for a pvc boat is better - find out from the video.