Do-it-yourself repair of a sewing machine Seagull 3

The Seagull sewing machine is perhaps the most popular model of a home sewing machine, despite the abundance of imported household sewing machines in stores. At one time, I had to buy it for a lot of money, and it seemed like she sewed well recently, only something began to wind. It's almost impossible for her to break. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the components are strong and reliable - everything is in the style of Soviet technology. But, unfortunately, it winds practically “from birth” and knocks when sewing, like a machine gun.

Many other “charms” were provided by the plant along with instructions for device and use, where almost 5 pages describe how the pedal is arranged, the electrical circuit of the engine is given, but not a word about how to set up and repair Seagull sewing machine.

The Seagull sewing machine has many models that differ little from each other: Seagull 2; 3; 142m; 132; 134; 143 and others. Sewing machines of the Podolsk plant: Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1 others, as well as the Malva sewing machine, have approximately the same device as Chaika. Therefore, the instructions for one of these machines are quite suitable for any model of a full zigzag sewing machine, such as Chaika.

Setting up, adjusting and repairing Seagull sewing machines is almost the same for all models mentioned above, with the exception of copier repair (depending on the machine model) and setting some shuttle parameters. But since our task is to learn how to tune only the line, we will omit the repair of many nodes in this article. In addition, such repairs cannot be done with your own hands, without professional knowledge and experience, and even at home.

Before proceeding with the repair and adjustment of the Chaika sewing machine with your own hands, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws on top). Detach the presser foot, remove the needle and needle plate, bobbin cover. Detach the machine from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the shuttle: bobbin case, locking ring, shuttle. Now remove dust, dirt, lint from the machine (especially in the shuttle compartment) and lubricate all rubbing, accessible places well with machine oil. You can look at the places that need to be lubricated in the instructions for the machine or lubricate all available rubbing metal parts and assemblies.

It is very convenient to use a medical disposable syringe for lubrication, just choose the size so that it fits in the neck of the oil container. The needle must be removed when filling with oil.

The main malfunction of machines of the “Seagull” type that perform a zigzag stitch and several types of finishing stitches based on it are skips, looping of the lower and upper threads, as well as thread breaks from above and below. It is these faults and how to fix them that we will consider in this article.

Thread breakage most often occurs with Chaika-type sewing machines. The first reason leading to thread breakage is the bent point of a blunt needle, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible.
Use serviceable needles and designed for Chaika sewing machines, in accordance with the instructions.

A broken thread can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, then the thread will break periodically.When performing a straight stitch, the needle should be located in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly removed from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the needle position L should be the same with R.

Longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle gap is carried out by shifting the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker arm, in the upper part of the machine (turn the flywheel on the zigzag line and you will see this mount).
Loosen these screws and set (on a straight stitch) the needle exactly in the center (offsetting the needle bar frame). After that, check the position of the needle with its left and right injection. I hope that the entry of the needle (at the maximum width of the zigzag), on the right and on the left, will be evenly removed from the center. If it touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag, contact the master, this case is already for him.

The transverse position of the needle is regulated by a rod mounted on a plate with two screws and a plate pressing the needle bar frame to the bracket rod. Adjusting this assembly is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously go astray during operation, especially the Chaika electric sewing machine. Therefore, if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust the position of the needle, since moving the needle forward is the cause of its breakdown, and moving away from the seamstress is the cause of skips.

Adjusting the needle position requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the wizard, as it can cause other components to fail, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.

It can be added that when using a curved needle, notches may form on the nose of the shuttle, which “unwind” the thread and break. The nose of the shuttle should be perfectly smooth and sharp, without roughness. Its condition can be determined by running a fingernail along the edge of the spout or using a magnifying glass. The pressure plate tightening screw must not be serrated, the latch handle must be clearly fixed and its surface must be clean and smooth. The shuttle itself must also be perfectly clean, without nicks and rust spots.

When sewing rough fabrics, sometimes the needle moves up along with the needle bar. There are gaps in the stitch. In this photo, the arrows indicate where the needle bar fastening screw and the upper thread tensioner fastening screw are located.

Incorrect position of the hook of Chaika sewing machines leads to thread breakage and the appearance of other stitching defects, including gaps. Passes usually appear due to the wrong position of the shuttle at the moment of meeting with the needle - the nose of the shuttle does not capture the loop formed, passes by and a gap is formed. Many other factors can be the reason.

In order to correctly set the position of the meeting of the nose of the shuttle and the needle, it is necessary to adjust the position of the shuttle. You can loosen the two bolts that secure it and gently, using a powerful screwdriver, move or move away the move along with the shuttle in relation to the needle. The shuttle travel rotates on an axle rather than moving back and forth. This is a very important point. No need to pull it out with a nail puller or hammer it in with a hammer, it easily turns on its axis. It is difficult for an inexperienced person to immediately understand what is at stake, but it is also very difficult to explain in more detail. Everything that can be added, carefully understand before you twist something, and even more so unscrew it. There should be no remaining parts after repair.

At the time of the meeting of the nose of the shuttle and the blade of the needle, the following parameters must be observed: the gap between the nose and the blade is approximately 0.15 mm; when the needle leaves the lower position to a height of 1.8 - 2.0 mm, the nose should approach it above the eye of the needle by 1 mm, at least, but not more than 3 mm.
By the way, a very important point is the lifting of the needle from the lower position (1.8 - 2.0 mm). This parameter affects the formation of the needle loop and should be given special attention. In order for the nose to grab the thread from the needle, it is necessary that a loop is formed, where it passes, hooking it. That is why the needle must first go down and then, having risen a little, already meet the looper nose.

The position of the needle is also regulated by the needle bar, for this there is a screw for attaching it to the sleeve under the front cover (see above).

If you set such parameters for adjusting the shuttle, then sewing machine “Seagull” will work relatively well. But, unfortunately, this repair is not over. There are still many other shuttle settings that are quite complex and necessary for the Chaika sewing machine. It is there that the reasons for the looping of the thread and such a rare phenomenon for sewing machines are hidden - the breakage of the lower thread. The difficulty of presenting this material is that for almost any model of the “Chaika” sewing machine, engineers have provided for their own settings for this unit, which, moreover, requires a lot of experience from the performer. For which they are thanked, at least from sewing machine repairmen. They will not be left without work as long as there are “Chaika” sewing machines.

Sometimes you have to remove the flywheel from the machine. There are only three parts in this knot, but many people cannot assemble it correctly. This is due to the fact that it would be more logical to insert the petals of the friction washer inside the slot of the shaft, which is why they do so. As a result, the machine starts to spin idle.
The petals should not be turned towards the body of the machine (shaft), but towards you. Not only that, they can be supplied in “two options”, choose one in which the limit screw will not interfere with tightening the flywheel mount.

Inexpensive sewing machine: “Pros and cons”
For many who are going to learn how to sew, the question often arises “Which sewing machine to buy”, preferably an inexpensive and good one. In this article, we will figure out whether such a combination is possible - “an inexpensive and good machine” and how an inexpensive sewing machine worth 3-4 thousand rubles differs from a machine costing 30 thousand.

Podolsk sewing machine
The most reliable and easy-to-use sewing machine, as well as the Chaika sewing machine “originally” from the USSR, but unlike the Chaika, it hardly breaks and is capable of sewing any thick and coarse fabrics, including leather.

Do-it-yourself sewing machine repair
The looping of the thread in the line is perhaps the main difference between zigzag sewing machines, such as Chaika, Podolskaya of all models, as well as a characteristic knock at work. In short, looping in the line occurs due to uneven thread tension along its path: a broken compensation spring, a rusty sole of the foot, the shuttle stroke is incorrectly set, etc.

Overlock Setting Tips
In the article on repairing the Chaika sewing machine, not all recommendations are given on how to set up a sewing machine. Many issues are discussed in other articles on the site. For example, in this article you will learn what is important for a sewing machine, including seagulls, sewing threads and needles.

We sew knitwear without gaps and looping
Many who have tried to sew knitwear on a conventional sewing machine have noticed that the machine often refuses to make a beautiful and even stitch. Gaps form in the knitted line, the lower thread winds, and sometimes breaks. Why is this happening and how can I fix it?

Decorative stitching on a difficult area
Sometimes you need to make a perfectly even decorative line on a product, but you can’t draw a line with chalk - traces will remain, and there is not enough experience to scribble “by eye”. Simple tips on how to stitch on "difficult" areas.

How to hem a skirt
Read this article if you do not know how to hem a skirt, including chiffon. Finishing the bottom of the skirt with a hidden seam.

1 Friction screw - this is such a part of a large bolt filled with plastic. There is a hole in the plastic where a small screw is screwed in, this screw must be partially unscrewed in order to be able to unscrew the friction screw.
2. Next you will see a friction washer, this is a washer that has three external protrusions and two internal antennae.
3. After that, you can remove the flywheel.

You need to install in reverse order.

1. Clean everything, lubricate the shaft with sewing machine oil and put the flywheel on the shaft.
2. Put on the friction washer, the inner antennae should look outward (to the right).
3. The friction screw is screwed in last, which is fixed with a screw.

PS The external mustache is used to adjust the loosening of the friction screw.

This is a complex zigzag machine that performs special and decorative stitches. Version with electric drive.

The upper thread winds from below and breaks. Skipped stitches in a line. Shuttle jamming. Strong loosening of the lower thread in the line. Heavy driving. In the drive, the belt is skewed on the pulleys. Stitch length from 0 to 2 mm.

1. Inspect the machine for completeness and damage. Disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the guard of the electric motor belt drive, remove the electric motor.
2. Unscrew the top two screws and remove the cover.
3. In the cover, remove the electrical unit: cartridge and switch. Unscrew the bulb, the lower part of the cartridge and remove the bulb shield.
4. Remove the part of the cartridge to which the electrical wires are attached.
5. Tighten the wire fixing screws on the socket and on the switch. On the bottom guard of the light bulb, from the side of the mechanism, one or two spots can often be seen - traces of the blows of the screws of the needle bar frame when performing a zigzag. Blows on the shield shake off the filament, and the light bulb fails. In order to avoid impacts, bend the place of the bend of the protective shield so that the angle is equal to 80 °. In this case, the shield without deformation will come close to the light bulb, and the blows of the screws will stop. Assemble the knot in reverse order. Thread the lighting wire strictly along the longitudinal axis of the cover in the form of a straight line. Otherwise, the wire will interfere with the operation of the levers when zigzag.
6. Check and tighten all fastening screws on the cover. Loosen the bobbin clamp screw on the winder. Move it to the right until it stops and tighten the screw.
7. Remove the needle and see what type it is, if there is any curvature, bluntness or other marriage (see part 2, "Needle Knot"). It is better to put a new needle No. 100, in extreme cases - No. 90. It should have a flat (flat) on the cone. Put the needle up to the stop with the flat back, and with a long groove - to the seamstress. Fix the needle in the needle holder with a screw using a screwdriver.
8. Remove the car from the wooden stand. Disassemble the shuttle: remove the bobbin case, locking ring, shuttle.
9. Reconstruct the upper thread tension regulator based on the following reasons:

a) the direction of the thread changes twice: the first turn is approximately 120°, the second - 90°. Both turns during operation provide dynamic resistance to the thread, which contributes to its breakage (rice. 65);

b) long-term practice of repairing household sewing machines has shown that the thread guide bracket is not used for its intended purpose, which means that the compensation spring is turned off;

Rice. 65. The position of the thread in the regulator. Regulator pusher (car "Podolsk" - 142 cells):

v) During the first year of operation of the machine, the thread guide becomes so loose at the attachment point that it becomes movable and interferes with the seamstress.

a) the thread does not change direction after exiting the regulator, and the compensation spring, being in its path, ensures its softness and reliability in the operation of the machine;

b) threading is simplified and the work of a seamstress is facilitated;

v) due to the transfer of the spring to the left side of the regulator, it is impossible to turn it off from work.

1. To reconstruct the upper thread tension regulator, loosen the locking screw on the left, remove the regulator, the buffer conical spring, remove the pusher with tweezers, and the regulator thread guide bracket with wire cutters (cancel it).
2. Bending the pusher, which is located inside the frontal cavity (see fig. 65, a, b), set the angle between the disc and the stem to 100°. If the stem part is deformed, straighten it. Using tweezers, put the pusher 2 in place (rice. 66). The tweezers should be with bent ends.

Rice. 66. The scheme of the squeezing device in the regulator (machine "Podolsk" -142 cells, etc.):

The Seagull sewing machine manual can be used as a manual for any sewing machine models that perform a seagull zigzag stitch: Seagull 2, Seagull 3, Seagull 134.

This instruction for the Chaika sewing machine is also suitable for Malva and Podolsk brand sewing machines: Podolsk 142, Podolsk 142M, etc.

This instruction manual for the Chaika sewing machine is given in abbreviated form, based on the manufacturer's instructions.
The operation and device of the Podolsk and Chaika sewing machine are almost the same, therefore this instruction manual is suitable for all models of these sewing machines, including the Malva sewing machine. They have the same device and differ only in the presence of additional types of zigzag stitches. Some Chaika and Podolskaya models have an additional device (copier) for this and, accordingly, a lever for switching its operating modes. The shuttle device, threading and adjustment parameters of the units and mechanisms of these sewing machines are almost the same, with the exception of setting some settings for the shuttle operation parameters (depending on the model of the machine).
For details on how to set up and perform minor repairs on sewing machines such as Chaika, see other articles in the section on repairing sewing machines.

1. Shuttle device. 2. Platform. 3. Needle plate. 4. Presser foot. 5. Needle bar. i6. Presser foot lifter. 7. Upper thread tension regulator. 8. Top and front covers. 9. Thread take-up lever. 10. Tension washers. 11. Index of the type of lines. 12. Zigzag width indicator. 13. Rod for the coil. 14. Winder. 15. Flywheel. 16. Needle shift lever. 17. Zigzag handle. 18. Reverse feed lever. 19. Stitch length knob. 20. Comb lift control knob. 21. Engine material. 22. Picture panel. 23. Handle for switching copier unit.

Fine grades of silk, batiste - needle number 70, thread - 65
Sheet, calico, chintz, satin, silk, linen fabrics - needle No. 80, thread - 65
Heavy cotton fabrics, coarse calico, flannel, thin woolen fabrics, heavy silks - needle number 90
Woolen suits - No. 100 needles
Thick woolen coat fabrics, broadcloth - needle no. 110

Needle 1 must be installed in needle holder 2 (with the needle bar in the upper position) up to the stop and secured with screw 3.
The flat side of the flask 4 (flat) on the needle should be turned in the opposite direction from the working person (Fig. 4)

Top threading
Pull the spool pin 13 up to the stop out of the sleeve cover.
Set the thread take-up eye to the highest position by turning the handwheel.
Raise the presser foot.
Install a spool of thread on the rod 13.
You need to thread the upper thread in this sequence. Into the holes 7 and 6 of the leaf thread guide, between the washers 8 of the tension regulator, then up into the eye 4 of the thread take-up spring, down under the thread take-up hook 3, up through the hole of the thread take-up lever 5, down into the wire thread guide 2, into the thread guide 1 on the needle bar and put into the eye needle 9 from the side of the worker.

Threading the lower thread
Before threading the lower thread, you need to pull out the bobbin case with the bobbin from the bobbin, for which you need to turn the handwheel to put the needle in the upper position.Pull out the sliding plate, grab the bobbin case latch lever with two fingers of your left hand and remove the bobbin case.

Wind the thread onto the bobbin using a winder. When winding the thread on the bobbin, the handwheel of the machine should rotate idly. To do this, release the friction screw 1 (Fig. 8).
Put the bobbin on the winder spindle 2 so that the spindle spring enters the bobbin slot. Spool 1 with threads put on the spool pin. Thread from the spool between the tension washers 4, as shown in fig. 9, and then wind a few turns on the bobbin by hand. Pull the winder up to the flywheel. Further winding by rotating the flywheel with the help of the drive.
After the bobbin is fully wound, the winder rubber ring will no longer come into contact with the handwheel, and winding will stop. Before removing the bobbin, the winder must be moved to the left from stop 3.
Thread the wound bobbin into the bobbin case and thread under the tension spring as shown in Fig. 10. Leave the free end of the thread 10-15 cm long.
Insert the bobbin case with the bobbin threaded into the hook. In this case, the needle should be in the up position.
Put the bobbin case with the bobbin on the rod 3 of the hook until it stops. In this case, the finger 1 of the bobbin case should enter the slot 2 (Fig. 11).

To ensure easy running of the machine and prevent wear, all places indicated by arrows should be lubricated with one or two drops of industrial oil I-20A GOST 20799-75.
Machine head lubrication points (Fig. 17)
Lubrication points for the zigzag mechanism (Fig. 19)
Cleaning and lubricating the hook (Fig. 20)
The heavy running of the machine, and sometimes jamming, can occur from contamination of the shuttle. The course is clogged with scraps of thread, tows of fabric, dust.
See also Sewing machine lubrication
To clean the shuttle stroke, the needle bar must be placed in the upper position. Pull out the bobbin case 1, remove the trim ring 2 by turning the spring lock towards you, remove the hook 3. Carefully clean the hook socket 4 with a brush-brush from dust, dirt, threads. In this case, it is not allowed to use metal objects for cleaning, so as not to damage the cleanliness of the working surface. The direction for the shuttle in the stroke housing and the winder spindle are also lubricated with 1-2 drops of oil.

The Chaika sewing machine is perhaps the most popular model of a sewing machine for the home, despite the abundance of imported household sewing machines in stores. At one time, I had to buy Chaika for a lot of money, and she seems to sew well, only sometimes she winds, otherwise everything is whole and unharmed. Indeed, it is almost impossible to break the Seagull sewing machine. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the components are strong and reliable - everything is in the style of Soviet technology. But, unfortunately, the line winds
practically “from birth”, gaps sometimes appear in the line, especially on a zigzag and knocks when sewing, like a machine gun.
The manufacturer includes instructions for the Chaika sewing machine in the kit, which details how to use the machine and perform various operations, there is even an electrical circuit of the electric motor, a pedal device, but there is not a word about how to set up and perform at least minor repairs to the Chaika sewing machine. We will try to fill this gap in the instructions and give some recommendations on how to repair the Chaika sewing machine with your own hands.

The main malfunction of machines of the “Seagull” type that perform a zigzag stitch and several types of finishing stitches based on it are skips, looping of the lower and upper threads, as well as breaking it from above and below. Sewing machine Chaika, Chaika M, Chaika 142, Chaika 132, Chaika 134, Chaika 132 m, Chaika 142 M, Chaika 143, Chaika 3, Chaika 2 and Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1; Malva and others - all these machines have the same device and instructions for use and setup, so their repair is almost the same, with the exception of repairing the copier (depending on the model of the machine) and setting the shuttle settings. But since our task is to learn how to tune only the line, we will omit the repair of many nodes. In addition, such repairs cannot be done with your own hands, without professional knowledge and experience at home.

Before proceeding with the repair and adjustment of the Chaika sewing machine on your own, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, and lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws). Detach the presser foot, remove the needle and needle plate, bobbin cover. Detach the machine from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the shuttle: bobbin case, locking ring, shuttle. Now remove dust, dirt, lint from the machine (especially in the shuttle compartment) and lubricate all rubbing, accessible places well with machine oil. For cleaning, use a hard small brush for glue, and it is very convenient to use a medical disposable syringe to lubricate the sewing machine.

Thread breakage often occurs with Seagull-type sewing machines. The first reason leading to thread breakage is a bent needle point, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible. Use serviceable needles and designed only for household sewing machines, in accordance with See instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk 142
Sewing machine needles must be in perfect condition. The condition of the needle can be determined by running a fingernail along the tip of the needle or using a magnifying glass. Often it is the needle that causes gaps in stitches, needle breakage and other stitching defects.
Choose the number of the needle depending on the thickness of the fabric and thread. Do not use industrial grade needles with a round head for household sewing machines. Needles for household sewing machines have a cut on the flask.
For sewing various fabrics and materials, use the appropriate type of needle, for example, for sewing leather, the needle has a square point, which makes it easier to pierce the material and contributes to the formation of a loop on the needle when it is caught by the hook nose.

A broken thread can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, then the thread will break periodically. When performing a straight stitch, the needle should be located in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly removed from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the distance L should be the same with R.
The longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle gap is carried out by shifting the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker arm, in the upper part of the machine (turn the flywheel on the zigzag line and you will see this mount). Loosen these screws and set the needle exactly in the center on a straight stitch (offsetting the needle bar frame). Then check the position of the needle with the left and right injection. The needle entry (at the maximum zigzag width), right and left will be evenly removed from the center. If the needle touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag, contact the master, this case is already for him.

The transverse position of the needle is regulated by a rod fixed to the plate with two screws and a plate pressing the needle bar frame to the bracket rod.
Adjusting this assembly is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously go astray during operation, especially for electric sewing machines. Therefore, if you decide to repair the Chaika sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust this position of the needle, since the displacement of the needle forward is the cause of its breakdown, and the displacement towards the seamstress is the cause of skips.
Adjusting the lateral position of the needle requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the master, since the wrong position of the needle can cause misalignment of other nodes, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.
Pay attention to the condition of the needle plate. Hole e must not be “broken” or notched.It is better to replace such a plate.

The Seagull sewing machine performs a straight line, a zigzag line and, based on it, several types of finishing lines. In our time, you can buy such a machine only with an electric drive (with a pedal), a foot model (with a belt), the so-called “cabinet”, was produced in Soviet times.
Sewing machine Seagull 2; 3; 142m; 132; 134; 143; Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1; Malva and others - all these machines have the same device and instructions for use and setup. They have practically no structural differences, except that they have an additional set of types of decorative zigzag stitches. True, when repairs and adjustments are being made, for each model of the Chaika or Podolsk sewing machine, it is required to know the corresponding parameters, the configuration schemes for the shuttle assembly of each model. This is one of the shortcomings, but the big advantage is that the price of spare parts, especially used ones for Chaika-type sewing machines, is quite acceptable.

Before you start setting up the Chaika sewing machine on your own, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, and lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws). Detach the presser foot, remove the needle and needle plate, bobbin cover. Detach the machine from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the shuttle: bobbin case, locking ring, shuttle. Now remove dust, dirt, lint from the machine (especially in the shuttle compartment) and lubricate all rubbing, accessible places well with machine oil.

As a rule, the main malfunctions of Chaika-type sewing machines are thread breakage during sewing; skipped stitches; looping of the upper thread in the line. There is also a characteristic knock during operation, but this is a design feature of these machines and the only remedy is periodic lubrication. Although there are exceptions, and Seagull sewing machines work quite softly.
Thread break. The first reason leading to thread breakage is the bent point of a blunt needle, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible. Use serviceable needles and designed for Chaika sewing machines, in accordance with the instructions.

The question is often asked: how to insert a thread into a needle in a Seagull sewing machine? For all Chaika-type machines, and for most others that perform a zigzag stitch, the needle is placed with the sawn-off part of the flask away from you, and the groove for the thread should look at you. It is from the side of this groove that the thread is inserted.

If the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, the thread will break periodically. When performing a straight stitch, the needle should be located in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly removed from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the distance L should be the same with R. The longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle gap is carried out by shifting the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker located at the top of the machine (turn the flywheel on the zigzag line and you will see this mount). Loosen these screws and set the needle exactly in the center on a straight stitch (offsetting the needle bar frame).
Then check the position of the needle for the left and right injection. I hope that the needle entry (at the maximum zigzag width on the right and left) will be evenly removed from the center. If the needle touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag, then contact the master, this case is already for him.

The transverse position of the needle is regulated by a rod fixed on a plate with two screws, and a plate pressing the needle bar frame to the bracket rod. Adjusting this assembly is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously go astray during operation, especially the Chaika electric sewing machine.Therefore, if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust the position of the needle, since moving it forward is the cause of its breakdown, and moving it towards the seamstress is the cause of skipped stitches in the line.

Adjusting the needle position requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the master, as it may cause misalignment of other components, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.
It can be added that when using a curved needle, notches may form on the nose of the hook, which “unwind” the thread and break. It should be perfectly smooth and sharp, without roughness. Its condition can be determined by running a fingernail along the edge of the spout or using a magnifying glass.
The pressure plate tightening screw must not be serrated, the latch handle must be clearly fixed and its surface must be clean and smooth.
Incorrect position of the shuttle nose of Chaika sewing machines leads to thread breakage and the appearance of other stitching defects, including skips. Passes usually appear due to the wrong position of the shuttle at the moment of meeting with the needle. The nose of the shuttle does not capture the loop formed, passes by and a gap is formed. Many other factors can be the reason.

Which sewing machine to buy
Modern sewing machines can be divided into 2 types: electronic and electromechanical. There are many design differences between these types of sewing machines, but the main one, which is clear to everyone, is that electronic models of sewing machines perform an unlimited number of operations.

Which overlocker to buy
Many modern overlock machines use a differential feed of the processed fabric. It is indispensable when overcasting knitted fabrics, especially connecting seams.

Reasons for skipping a stitch in a line
The main reason for skipping stitches is that the nose of the hook does not capture the loop formed by the needle. The gap between the needle blade and the nose of the shuttle should not be more than 0.3 mm, sometimes it reaches sizes in millimeters. The spout passes next to the loop and a pass appears.

Overlock class 51 is perhaps the most common brand of industrial sewing machine used in everyday life, in small studios.

Preventive maintenance, overlock settings
It is not always necessary to repair overlocks or adjust them, sometimes it is enough just to adjust the thread tension and it will again overcast the fabric with high quality.

1 Friction screw - this is such a part of a large bolt filled with plastic. There is a hole in the plastic where a small screw is screwed in, this screw must be partially unscrewed in order to be able to unscrew the friction screw.
2. Next you will see a friction washer, this is a washer that has three external protrusions and two internal antennae.
3. After that, you can remove the flywheel.

You need to install in reverse order.

1. Clean everything, lubricate the shaft with sewing machine oil and put the flywheel on the shaft.
2. Put on the friction washer, the inner antennae should look outward (to the right).
3. The friction screw is screwed in last, which is fixed with a screw.

PS The external mustache is used to adjust the loosening of the friction screw.

Until the end of the nineties - the beginning of the 2000s, Chaika machines were the most popular devices for sewing, embroidery and tailoring in the CIS. Despite the huge demand, it was almost impossible to buy them from official representatives, although they cost quite reasonable money. The reason lies in the difficult economic situation on the territory of our country after the collapse of the USSR - there was no money and personnel for organizing mass sales, logistics, establishing sales markets, but there was a demand for goods. As a result, the machine became a bestseller for ads (newspaper "From Hands to Hands") and an acquaintance.
Reliable, functional, they have become good helpers for home craftswomen.Aluminum body, steel parts eliminated the possibility of frequent breakdowns and wear of components and parts.

The Podolsky Mechanical Plant (where the apparatus was made) was at one time almost the main supplier of household sewing machines in the USSR. Up to 1.5 million pieces were produced per year. After the nationalization of the Singer plant, only in 1928 did production really resume. The cars were produced in a compact version with a manual drive, an electric motor, packed in casings and leatherette cases. There were pedestal options with drawers for storing related accessories and fixtures. Their quality was low, they quickly fell into disrepair. The process of improvement and mastery continued until 1963. Soviet machines began to be equipped with a thread tension device, a reverse gear appeared, several types of stitching. At the end of the 90s, imported Jaguars, Vicky and others like them “flooded” into the country. Domestic Podolsk sewing machines could not compete in terms of the number of operations, in terms of equipping with automated control.

The lineup of "Seagulls" is very diverse. Despite the fact that it was regularly updated, in fact, the devices practically did not differ from each other (only some small nodes, but this was visible only to specialists). The core feature set has not changed. The types of electric motors were different - from Russian to Japanese; drives were produced both manual and foot.

One of the oldest models - the production of the first copies began in the 30s of the 20th century. Despite the apparent primitivism, for a beginner seamstress or just for a hostess who wants to experiment with sewing, add comfort to the house (sew decorative pillowcases, bedspreads, napkins), the second "Seagull" is an excellent choice. On it simple decorative seams are easily obtained.

You can buy from the hands, according to the ads. The average price of a working instance in normal condition is 2000-2500 rubles.

The ideological successor of the previous model. There are minor adjustments in appearance; the first work was carried out on ease of use - two new regulators were added, the working weight of the machine was slightly reduced (about 300 g due to the manufacture of some materials from lighter metal). In addition to the functions of the previous model, it has 10 special feet for sewing on buttons and darning. The stitch length has become adjustable.

The estimated purchase price of a used version (there are no others nowadays, unfortunately) is 1000-1200 rubles (“Troika” is more expensive, mainly due to the fact that there are quite a few of them left).

The first electromechanical model of the series. Release started in the 60s. Almost all of the pieces that you can buy today were produced between the 1980s and 1992 (the actual year of production stop), i.e. cars of quite decent quality (of course, this also depends on the accuracy of the previous owner).

On 132M, you can successfully sew thick fabrics - fur, tapestry, drape. For freedom of hands, seamstresses use a foot drive. If you change the thread and needle, you can also sew thin fabrics. The main care is timely lubrication of the nodes.

If you want to buy it from your hands - focus on the price of 3500-4000 rubles.

The 134 is a purely functional model that does not differ from the 132. There is an improvement in design, work on ergonomics, design geometry; the color of moving elements - levers and switches was changed (the experience of operating the previous model was taken into account - needlewomen could have their hands dirty, and white handles quickly became unusable)

Price - about 3000 rubles (134-ku is not known as well as 132-ku, and therefore they sell cheaper)

Without exaggeration, the best model ever! 142-ka is the most advanced device that can do a lot of operations. There is a thread cutter, a thread tension device, an electric motor in this model. It differs from the related model 142 in the structure of the overcasting feet. Copes successfully with tailoring of products from flax, silk, wool, cotton.There are double needles for making decorative seams. The main types of stitches are straight and zigzag.

You can buy a sewing machine from 4000 rubles. (in a good condition). You should not spare money for its purchase - not a single analogue is sold for such a price - Brother, Bernina and others are many times more expensive, but the functionality is the same, and reliability is lower.

Summing up, it is worth recognizing that the battered “heroine” of this article definitely loses to modern multifunctional units (Astralux, Pfaff and other analogues of the same price category are more convenient, quieter, work more smoothly). However, it has one big advantage - excellent work with thick fabrics.

Primary safety requirements

1) The most basic thing you should do if you sat down at the machine for the first time is to correctly install the needle. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to start the device. Pay close attention to the first step. Also, do not try to install needles from devices of other brands in the machine - only “native” needles. Example:

2) The flywheel (circular rotating wheel) can only be rotated counterclockwise, i.e. to myself;

3) Immediately before sewing, “pierce” the fabric with a needle, fix it with a foot, and turn the handwheel by hand so that the needle passes through the material several times;

4) When carrying out maintenance, do not lubricate the parts of the machine with sunflower oil, linseed oil, olive oil, etc. - only special technical oil, the GOST of which is indicated in the instructions below;

5) It is strictly not recommended to start the process of “idle” sewing (without fabric between the surface of the machine and the foot) - this way the machine’s engine will quickly deteriorate and it will have to be changed.

The instructions below are relevant for the entire model range - from 2 to 142m.

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