DIY sewing machine repair mini jaguar 281

The Mini Jaguar sewing machine is a compact, lightweight and economical model designed for home use.
The device of the Mini Jaguar sewing machine:
1.thread guide
2.Yarn feeder
3.thread guide
4.Screw for adjusting the pressure of the presser foot
5.paw
6.Stitch plate
7.Pull-out table
8.Screw of the needle clamp
9.spool pin
10.Limit stop for bobbin

11.flywheel
12.spool pin
13.carrying handle
14. Presser foot lifting mechanism
15.Electric cord socket
16.Tissue advance mechanism
17.Yarn former
18.power cord
19. pedal
Upper thread tension regulator - 21. Using this regulator, increase or decrease the upper thread tension. The higher the number, the tighter the upper thread tension.

The scale for the selected stitch is 23. This scale indicates the selected stitch pattern and the width of the zigzag stitch.
Switch for speed range 25 on a Mini Jaguar sewing machine. The Mini Jaguar sewing machine has two speed ranges: the slow range is for difficult operations at low speeds, and the second range is for normal operations at high speeds.
Stitch / bartack lever - 24. To adjust the stitch length, loosen the nut on the handle by turning the nut counterclockwise. Move the lever between the numbers 4 and 0, re-fix the handle with a nut. When sewing the bartack, lower the lever below “O” and sew in the opposite direction.
Start / Stop switch - 22. On some models of Mini Jaguar sewing machines, the Start / Stop switch is located directly above the needle, in addition to the speed range switch. With the selected speed range, the switch is pressed to start the machine. To stop the machine, press it again.

The mechanism for lifting the presser foot is 20. There are three positions for the presser foot:
1) When sewing, lower the presser foot.
2) when feeding or removing the fabric, raise the lifting mechanism to the middle position.
3) when changing the presser foot or removing thick fabric, raise it to the uppermost position.

1. If sewing machine Mini Jaguar has a start / stop switch, make sure it is in the stop position.
2. Make sure the speed range switch is in the “off” position.
3. Insert the plug of the power cord into the socket on the machine 15 and plug the power cord into a power outlet.

How to operate the Mini Jaguar sewing machine.
a) Set the speed range switch to the “High” or “Low” position.
b) If the machine has a “Start / Stop” switch, set it to the “Start” position. c) Step on the pedal with your foot to drive the machine. Take your foot off the pedal to stop.
Caution: If you have to stop working or sewing for a long time, unplug the power cord from the outlet. If the machine stops due to the thread hitting the shuttle, for safety reasons, the power supply is cut off automatically for 20-30 seconds. To resume work, after a 3-minute break, turn on the power switch again.

Removing the Extendable Table / Accessory Drawer. The slide-out table can be removed by moving to the left. When installing, move the table back until the pins enter the holes in the machine body. You can open the accessory box by lifting the lid up and back.

Bobbin case.Open the bobbin cover by pulling it downward. Use your index finger and thumb to grasp the bobbin case latch. Pull the bobbin case towards you. When the latch is lifted up, the bobbin will fall out of the bobbin case by itself.

Place the felt disc on the spool pin and place the bobbin on the spool pin. Pass the thread from the spool through the thread tension to the bobbin. Pull the end of the thread through the hole in the bobbin. Place the bobbin on the winder shaft so that the end of the thread comes out slightly from the bobbin. Move the winder bar to the right until it clicks.

Start the machine with the speed switch in the Low or High position. After a few turns of the bobbin, release the thread. Note: Keep your hands away from the needle when the machine is running. When the bobbin stops turning with the thread wound, turn off the power. Move the bobbin pin to the left to remove the bobbin.

Installing the bobbin into the bobbin case. You need to set the bobbin with your right hand so that the thread moves clockwise. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case so that the thread comes out about 10 cm. Draw the thread through the slit in the bobbin case, and then thread it under the flat tension spring.

Installing the bobbin case into the hook. Take the bobbin case by the latch. Move the bobbin case to the middle spindle of the bobbin. Note: Make sure the locating pin is fully seated in the locating slot on the top of the bobbin.

Release the latch to lock the bobbin case. Raise the presser foot lever. Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you. Thread the upper thread in the following order, according to this pattern.

Raise the presser foot lever so that the thread can pass between the upper thread tension discs. Raise the take-up lever to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you. While holding the end of the thread with your right hand, pull the thread through the thread guides as shown. Thread the thread in the take-up lever from left to right. Thread the needle from you to the back, pulling the thread 10 cm through the eye of the needle.

Reception of the thread from the bobbin. Raise the presser foot lift up. Hold the upper thread loose with your left hand. Turn the handwheel toward you with your right hand until the take-up lever is again in the upper position. Pull the thread from the bobbin while pulling on the edge of the upper thread with your left hand. Pull the thread from the bobbin until the end of the thread passes through the hole in the needle plate. Place both threads under the foot. The sewing machine is now ready for use.

Sewing straight stitches with the Mini-Jaguar sewing machine.
1.Set the stitch length to 4 mm, thread tension to 3. Raise the take-up lever to its highest position by turning the handwheel towards you.
2.Bring the ends of both threads under the presser foot away from you.
3. Place the fabric under the foot and lower it to the lower position.
4.Turn the handwheel until the needle pierces the fabric under the foot.
5.Switch the cruise control to the low or high position.
6.If the machine has a Start / Stop switch, turn it on.
7.At the end of sewing, the machine must be stopped, to continue working, the Stop / Start switch must be pressed again.
8. Turning the handwheel by hand, lift the needle up.
9. Remove the fabric under the foot by cutting off the ends of the thread.
10.The cut ends of the threads are pulled under the foot, leaving a free end of each thread 10 cm.

Securing a stitch on the Mini Jaguar sewing machine. The stitches are secured with the lever 24, performing the bartack with several stitches in the opposite direction. To do this, set the stitch length lever to a position below the “0” mark.

This is how this disassembled sewing machine looks like.As you can see, she has a lot of plastic parts, many of which can be damaged under heavy loads. Take good care of the machine and only sew on the fine fabrics recommended by the instructions.

Sewing machine manufacturers
You do not know which sewing machine to buy and find out which company is the best sewing machine? All well-known brands of modern sewing machines are of fairly high quality. First of all, you need to choose a sewing machine based on your needs. Perhaps an ordinary economy-class sewing machine from any manufacturer is what you are looking for.

What to buy a sewing machine
Sewing machines, including those of Jaguar, are fundamentally different from each other only in the type of shuttle used. There are only three of them for household sewing machines: sewing machines with a vertical shuttle; sewing machines with a horizontal shuttle and machines with an oscillating shuttle. Which of these shuttles is better and how it differs, you will find out in this article.

Sewing machine on credit
It has become so easy to buy household appliances on credit that sometimes you can get a loan right in the store with only your passport. Unlike many “useless” purchases, a sewing machine can become a source of income and quickly recoup the cost of buying it and the interest on the loan.

How to open a mini-studio
Many people think that opening an atelier is difficult and requires a lot of money. Not at all, it is enough to have several household machines and an overlock and some other sewing accessories. You can rent a room in a "dormitory" area. In such areas, there will definitely be a lot of clients for your atelier if you have “golden hands”.

Sewing hook types
If you are going to buy a sewing machine, first of all, decide what type of shuttle it should have. For rare household use, the swing type of shuttle is suitable. For those who often sew for themselves and to order, you need to buy a machine with a rotating shuttle.

Do you have a sewing machine and love to sew? Then this site is for you. Professional craftsmen will tell you how to make minor repairs to a sewing, knitting machine. Experienced technologists will share the secrets of tailoring. Review articles will tell you which sewing or knitting machine to buy, a mannequin iron and many other useful tips you will find on our website.
Thank you for viewing the entire page.

Compact electric simple zigzag sewing machine. The machine body is made of plastic and consists of two halves. They are held together with four screws: at the top are short screws 1 and 3 (rice. 164), bottom long screws 5 and 4... Screw inlet from the back. When assembling, you must first be able to lower the screws into the deep hole 5 and 4which must fit into their threaded, upright bushings, then put the short screws in the same way in the deep holes 1 and 3.

Rice. 164. Appearance (from the back) of the Jaguar sewing machine:

The electric motor of the sewing machine "Jaguar" has the following technical data: D = 36 mm, 1 (without pulley) = 57 mm, power - 15 watts. For comparison: the Polish electric motor TUR-2 has a power of 90 watts. The entire sewing machine is 95% plastic. Even the shuttle is made of two materials - the belt is made of metal, everything else is made of plastic.

The shuttle is right-handed, swinging in a vertical plane.

In order to set the desired distance from the shuttle to the needle when it is in the lowest position (and this distance on the left stab of the zigzag is 1 mm), it is necessary to do the following operations:

1. Remove the electric motor with transformer block.
2. Remove the needle.
3. Swivel the feed dog - feed feed to the upper position and secure.
4. Unscrew the two screws securing the shuttle travel housing.
5. Raise the shuttle travel housing together with the left end of the horizontal drive rack that drives the shuttle pusher.
6. Tilt the left side of the shuttle travel housing slightly upward and carefully disengage the drive rack with the gear.Here, exercise the utmost attention and care so as not to break the plastic toothed rack-drive, which is pivotally connected with a plastic rivet to the vertical plastic lever.
7. Move the toothed rack-drive 1 tooth to the right or to the left (decide in place) in engagement with the cylindrical driven gear of the shuttle pusher.
8. Replace the shuttle travel body, attach it with two screws, place the needle, lower the needle bar to its lowest position and see what is the distance between the hook nose and the needle. If the hook point is to the left of the needle by 5-7 mm or to the right by 3-4 mm, repeat the whole operation from the beginning.

If the nose of the hook is to the left of the needle by 3-4 mm or to the right by 1-2 mm, fine-adjust the position of the hook. Loosen the screw for adjusting the position of the hook relative to the needle and, moving the toothed rack-drive to the right or left, set the distance between the needle and the hook nose to 1 mm.

Place the needle on the right zigzag stitch. Bringing the nose of the shuttle to the needle, achieve their meeting at a distance of 1 mm above the upper edge of the eye of the needle. Adjust by vertical offset of the needle bar. There are difficulties here in that for the inner nut of the adjusting screw of the needle bar level, a hexagonal socket wrench is needed, and the width of the edge is 1 mm. There is nowhere to take it, and it is not attached to the car. Therefore, it is better to replace it with an ordinary headless screw with M4 thread. How can you service the machine with such an unprecedentedly complex adjustment (adjustment)?

The shuttle in diameter and height (axis) corresponds to the shuttle from the "Chaika" machine. But the height of its girdle is 3.5 mm, and the height of the girdle of the "Chaika" machine shuttle is 4.5 mm.

The needle bar is of very low hardness and has a play in the frame, which is well felt by the hand, which is clearly unacceptable for a sewing machine. The needle is close to the back wall in the needle hole.

It is necessary to remove the needle bar and bend it forward by 0.4-0.5 mm. To remove the needle bar, you need to: remove the shuttle travel housing, lower the feed dog - fabric motor and pull the needle bar down. When installing the needle bar, it is necessary to catch the gear connection of the lower plastic shuttle drive rail with the spur gear again.

When sewing, the result is not a straight stitch, but a wavy line.

The block of copying disks is made in one piece with the driven gear (rice. 165).

Rice. 165. Detail - plastic driven gear with a block of copying disks (Jaguar machine):

The mechanism of the JAGUAR sewing machine differs from the mechanisms of other models produced at that time. Let's see how it works.

In fig. 1 shows a front view. Here: 1. machine switch for three positions - from right to left - off, average speed, maximum speed; 2. Regulator of stitch length; 3. Knob for stitch selection; 4. Upper thread tension regulator (RNVN); 5. Removable table-pencil case.

Stitch length dial permanently spring-loaded upwards. There is a thread on its rod, along which, when rotating, the adjusting nut moves. When turned clockwise, the nut moves deeper into the machine, thereby reducing the stitch length. In the same way as in Podolsk 2M or Chaika 3, only there is an arbitrary setting due to a disk washer.

Automation handle switches with a click, stitch width changes in the same way with a click, that is, by a certain distance. There is no separate adjuster for this machine.

Let's go further, the side of the car has a socket for connecting to a 220V network. The number 1 marks the hole through which, on some models of machines, we have access to the fastening of the stitch length adjuster lever. see fig. 2. Flywheel does not have a friction mechanism, so it is not particularly convenient to wind the thread on the bobbin on this machine. The pedal jack is also not visible.

The rear view is shown in fig. 3. At the very bottom there is a plate with information about the machine. Almost all the holes are closed with plugs, but for disassembly we will need to unscrew only those marked with the number 1.A fastening device is visible on the machine stand, a reel seat is inserted into it.
In work, sometimes you need to flash something narrow. On this car pencil case very easy to remove, just slide it to the left. It also needs to be removed to replace the bobbin, as it blocks access to the bobbin.

Figure 5 shows a close-up of the machine control knobs. The arrow on the shuttle shows the place where the needle hits if the adjustment is incorrect or there is a large backlash in the mechanism for transferring motion from the main shaft to the shuttle.

Damage to the hook by the needle is common in this model. If this happens, then the machine immediately started skipping, tearing the upper thread.

The upper thread clings to the sharp edges of the potholes, which also does not make the machine work well.

If you suddenly have to disassemble such a model, then pay attention to Figure 6.
This is how the hex screwdriver should be inserted into the bolt that secures the stitch length adjustment knob.

Sometimes the fastening mechanism with its bolt looks to the right, then the screw driver must be inserted into the hole from the right side.

Attention! Do not try to disassemble body products until you unscrew the fastening screw and remove the stitch length knob.

Before we begin to disassemble the JAGUAR sewing machine, you must:
- remove the needle;
- remove the foot. Here the foot with the holder is made as a single unit;
- remove the stitch plate by unscrewing the two screws. On this machine, we need a Phillips screwdriver.

1. Mounting screw; 2. Needle plate; 3. Needle holder; 4. Needle clamp screw; 5. Presser foot; 6. Screw for attaching the foot.

Figure 7 shows the same assembly, only with dismantled parts.

If you have the same machine, and not only this one, after you have removed the stitch plate for cleaning, maintenance, etc. - check the tightness fabric conveyor... The fastening screws are indicated by 5 here.

The feed (4) itself must be exactly in the middle of the slot in the throat plate and be strictly parallel to the edges of the hole. If this rule is not observed (fulfilled), then it is necessary to loosen the fastening screws, achieve the above and tighten both screws tightly.
Well, now let's look at the reason for the owner of the mini Jaguar sewing machine for repair. Figure 8 shows a close-up shuttle... Here we see that the surface of the shuttle at the point of entry of the needle and gripping the needle thread with the hook nose very badly damaged. This shuttle needs to be changed. But since the shuttle here has a thinner working surface, it will not work with another model of the machine. I had to restore this shuttle. If possible, large potholes were removed, all edges and edges were rounded and polished, the nose of the shuttle was polished, but until the whole machine was assembled, it was not possible to check the operation of the shuttle.

After unscrewing all (four) screws marked with 1 in fig. 3 you need to lift the front cover and remove the connectors shown in fig. 9. The wires in the blue connector lead to the speed switch and will prevent us from removing the front cover.

In Figure 10, we see two halves of the sewing machine.

Attention. When assembling back the body products, be careful when inserting the bolts (self-tapping screws) into place. They can fall into the case and you will have to disassemble everything again.

Figure 11 shows a close-up thread take-up unit... If you have already dealt with sewing machines, you will notice that the thread take-up unit here is different from other machines. The thread take-up unit itself stands at one end on the axis in the machine body, and its groove is put on the crank axis. At this point, the thread take-up can generate a groove in the axle, then knocking and backlash will appear in operation.

1. Needle bar. 2. Needle bar fixing screw. 3. Connecting arm. 4. Crank 5. Thread take-up 6. Eccentric of the main shaft. 7. Screw securing the connecting arm and needle bar frame. At this point, the needle bar is adjusted in the lateral position.

Machine rack details are shown in Figure 12.

1. Control board
2. Electric drive
3. Worm
4. Mechanism of automation.

Since there was a strong backlash in the shuttle drive in the machine, it was necessary to remove the board with the transformer, it was screwed on with two screws, see fig. 13 to gain access to the parts on the underside of the machine.

Now access to the details is open, first we will consider the details of the table on the left side. see fig. 14.

Bobbin case fastened to the back of the machine. Access is closed with a plug. Shuttle pusher (2) driven by a toothed rack (4)

Shuttle differs from similar ones on modern machines both by the method of fastening, and by the size, and by the motion drive. The rail moves in a straight line to the left - to the right. The position of the rail sets the course of the machine.

1. Shuttle body; 2. Shuttle pusher; 3. Pusher spring; 4. Gear rack; 5.Flip cover of the shuttle compartment; 6. Mounting bracket; 7. Locking ring latches; 8. Conveyor lift shaft.

If we look at the car to the right. then we will see the adjusting unit and the right end of the conveyor lift shaft. To the right, a clip adhered to the engine housing, which flew off the axis of the connecting lever, which transfers movement from the main shaft to the gear shaft.
Attention. Here is the cause of the breakdown. There was a backlash and, accordingly, malfunctions, the clip fell off and a backlash appeared.

By releasing the adjusting screw, you can change the position of the lower end of the connecting lever, respectively, the time of the approach of the hook nose to the needle changes.

In Figure 16, you can see in more detail the structure and operation of parts in the machine rack.

Link arm (1) swings on the axle (2). The stroke is adjusted by changing the position of the lower end of the connecting lever, which transfers the movement to the gear shaft (5). Below the bolt (3) there is a pin on which the end of the conveyor lift shaft (4) rests.

To the right, you can see the propel connecting arm (fork). This fork is responsible for transmitting the movement of the tissue conveyor. In the upper part, it rests on the advance eccentric, then through the stone it is connected to the stitch length regulator link and, at the very bottom, to the crank of the fabric conveyor motor shaft.

To get a better look stitch length adjustment unit remove the limiting bar, look
figure 17

1. Regulator link; 2. Stone; 3. Lever; 4. Mounting screw; 5. Hole of the adjustment knob; 6. Promotional eccentric.
By changing the position of the lever (3), the position of the regulator wings changes. The stone in the curtain begins to move along a different profile and, accordingly, the stitch length changes.

Swinging the lever (1) Figure 16, grasping it at the bottom, it is possible to determine if there is any backlash in the movement transmission system from the main shaft to the shuttle. If there is a decent backlash in this place, then it needs to be eliminated. The fact is that in the upper part this lever has a cylinder that runs in the groove of a large cylinder fixed to the main shaft, see Figures 18 and 19.

These figures show a device for converting the movement of rotation of the main shaft into translational (linear) movements of the gear rack. The worm (1) of the automation mechanism is also very clearly visible, which is fastened with screws (2) (Fig. 18)

In Figure 19, circuit 1 marks the control mechanism for almost all parts of the bottom of the machine. We can clearly see the groove (2) for the connecting lever. The bearing (5) of the main shaft (4) is fastened with a screw (6)

The part highlighted by the outline consists of several parts, made as a whole. Do not touch it unless there is an urgent need.

The left main shaft is shown in Figure 20. Main shaft (1) is adjusted with an adjusting washer (2), which is secured with screws (3). Main shaft eccentric (4) is attached to the main shaft with a pin (5). The screw (6), with the help of which the movement is transmitted to the thread take-up (7), is painted over with paint so that it is not touched again, and also so that it does not self-unscrew.The connecting lever (8) with a crank moves in the thread take-up and on the cylinder; after prolonged operation, a groove may form and a backlash appears, which can be eliminated by bending the thread take-up.

When we looked at the case from the back side, we agreed that we only tighten the screws (1), why? Because on the inside, they can end with a pin or an axis, as in Figure 21, positions 1 and 2. The connecting lever (3) on the axis (2) should not have any play and should be fastened with a clip that flew off and stuck to the engine. Due to this, a backlash appeared, the stroke changed and the needle broke the shuttle. The gear lever (4) on the right side had no backlash. We rise higher - the adjusting unit, everything is fine here too. A little higher is the axis, after fixing this unit with a clip, it also began to function normally. If there is a backlash between the cylinder and the groove in the main shaft cylinder, then you can get rid of it by bending the upper end of the lever towards you.
The advance shaft (5) by means of the crank (6) transfers the movement to the tissue conveyor using the fork (9).
Presser bar (7) this car is black. The thread take-up is very visible (8)

The drive unit of this sewing machine is shown in Figure 22. Here: 1. motor; 2. fastening screws; 3. toothed belt; 4. Gear; 5. Bracket
The installation of this unit on the machine is not difficult, it is just necessary to withstand the condition of ease of movement and the absence of backlash.

Reinstalling the parts that were removed, I think, will not be difficult for you. I put everything in place. The course in this car was selected individually, it turned out to be approximately
2.45 mm. I installed the front cover by connecting the electrical wiring and tried to flash it on this machine, you will see the result in Fig. 23

As it turned out, the elimination of the backlash in the machine parts and the restoration of the shuttle led to a good result.

P.S. What I would like to say in conclusion - this machine is very delicate, of course, even coarse fabrics can be sewn, but not worth it. It is easy to move it to any place, work on it and remove it, it will not take up much space. The low sewing speed and the absence of a pedal are not very depressing. There are exactly the same machines with a power button on the sleeve and a pedal-button. For a good, permanent job, if someone sews at home, it will not work.

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On the photo 2, numbers, details of control, machine are indicated.

1. Switch. Works in three positions - from right to left:

1. turned off,
2. average speed,
3. maximum speed.

1. Stitch length handle.
2. Pattern selection knob.
3. Upper thread tension dial. (R.N.V.N.).
4. Pencil case - for storing paws, bobbins, and so on.

On the Photo 3, the car has a socket for connecting to a 220 V network, the engine is installed inside the car. Pedal for pressing with the elbow.

First of all, you need:

1. Remove the needle.
2. Remove the stitch plate

On the Photo 4, the assembly above the throat plate is shown:

1. Retaining screw, needle plate.
2. Stitch plate.
3. Needle holder.
4. Needle clamp screw.
5. Foot.
6. Foot fixing screw.

On the Photo 5, with a 2 - 3 mm hexagon wrench in section, unscrew the sleeve with an external thread, and under an internal hexagon. - access to the stitch length adjuster lever attachment.

On the photo 6, a screwdriver is shown. To open the car, I had to saw through in a screwdriver, with a file, such a groove.

On the Photo 7, the rear of the car is shown. Screws 1 and 2 are short, 3 and 4 are long. Closed with plugs on top.

On the photo 8, the kinematic diagram of the mini Jaguar machine is shown.

1. Flywheel.
2. Large gear. Under it, small.
3. Eccentric bushing.
4. Fork.
5. Plastic drum.
6. Main shaft.
7. Crank.
8. Thread take-up.
9. Needle bar leash.
10. Bracket, with needle bar adjustment screw, vertical.
11. Needle bar.
12. Needle holder.
13. Transport block.
14. Hook block adjusting screw.
15. Hook block adjusting screw.
16. Shuttle block.
17. Conveyor lift plate.
18. Rack.
19. Engine.
20. Fork pull.
21. Electrical board with three plugs and sockets.
22. A pressure screw that adjusts the pressure of the bar on the plastic drum.
23. Plank.
24. The finger, when pressed, on the elevator plate of the conveyor.
25. Connection with toothed plate.
26. Pattern selection knob.
27. Worm gear, on the main shaft.

On the Photo 9, arrows show the details of the machine:

1. Screw. Lift plates, conveyor.
2. A pressure screw that adjusts the pressure of the bar on the plastic drum.
3. Pressure plate.
4. Toothed rack plastic.
5. Advance shaft, conveyor.
6. Eccentric bushing.
7. Kernel. Presser foot.
8. Thread take-up.
9. Traction - fork on top, eccentric below.

The needle exposition, I make in relation to the edges, the hole in the stitch plate. As for the Chaika car 3.

On the Photo 10, location of the needle, on the left and right stab, in the hole in the stitch plate. And also in the center.

On the Photo 11, the block of copying disks is shown. Mounted above the worm gear.

On the photo 12, the worm is shown - gear wheel number 1.

Bottom, left position, straight stitch. Next position, small zigzag. Fifth position, large zigzag. See position, pattern selection knobs. Photo 2 No. 3.

1. We expose the stitch selection knob to the position of the largest zigzag.(there are no failures in this node)
2. Place the stitch plate in place.
3. Turning the handwheel, lower the needle to the left injection, through the throat plate, to the lowest position. Moreover, we have:

1. the feed block should be under the throat plate at its lowest point.
2. The hook nose must be in the 1 mm position, which does not go into the hook block body. Photo 14.

1. Switch to straight stitch position.

1. Shuttle block nose, must be strictly behind the needle. + - 1 mm.
2. The gap between the top track of the hook and the flat of the needle should be 0.1 mm.

On the photo 13, shuttle mechanism it consists of:

1. The path along which the shuttle moves.
2. Shuttle pusher.
3. Buffer spring, on the shuttle pusher.
4. A rack with teeth - it rotates a gear - mounted on the axis of the pusher.
5. Hinged cover, shuttle compartment.
6. Mounting bracket, hinged cover.
7. Two clamps, pressure plate.
8. Conveyor lift plate.
9. Adjusting screw, position, hook block housing, relative to the needle.
10. Adjusting screw, position, hook block housing, relative to the needle.

On the Photo 14, the nose of the shuttle must be in the 1 mm position, which has not gone into the body of the shuttle block.

On the Photo 15, side view of the shuttle block.

On the photo 16, mini Jaguar shuttle. The black part is plastic, the rest is metal.

The surface of the shuttle, at the point where the needle enters and the hook nose grips the needle thread, is very badly damaged. This shuttle needs to be changed! But since this shuttle has a working surface width of 3.5 mm. Chaika has 3.0 mm.Photo 16 - 1, then from other models of machines, more than one shuttle will not work! From Chaika - when installing the pressure ring, the shuttle will overwrite!

On the photo 16-1, width of the working shelf, shuttles.

1. Car shuttle "Lada 238".
2. Car shuttle"Seagull", "Podolsk 142".
3. Shuttle machine "Chapel 30".

In photo 16-2, the thickness of the shuttles.

1. Car shuttle "Lada 238".
2. Car shuttle "Seagull", "Podolsk 142".
3. Shuttle machine "Chepel 30".

I had to restore this shuttle.

1. Potholes were removed and all edges and edges rounded and polished.
2. The nose of the shuttle is polished.

Preparing the shuttle for installation in the block.

Blunt nose, shuttle - (this is a skip stitch).

1. Sharpening of the spout, we produce from the reverse side, with a blunt, diamond file. Photo 16-3
2. Then we bring to the point of the needle, velvet, sandpaper.

1. We remove chamfers on a vertical plane.

(Sharp chamfers are a thread breakage.) From many years of work, on the shuttle, pits, grooves are formed, so we cut them off from the plane. And we also grind.

On the photo 16-4, places of shuttle processing, from the front side.

On the photo 16-5, places of shuttle processing, from the back side.

1. From all sides, we blunt the heel, with a diamond, velvet, file.
2. But we blunt the outer track, the inner part of the shuttle, along its entire length, only with velvet paper.

Everything, the shuttle, is ready for installation in the nest.

On the photo 17, assembly with a plastic drum:

1. Stream.
2. The bushing is a hex wrench screw.

Carbolite drum - consists of two parts.

At the bottom of the drum, there is a pressure plate.

A roller is installed in the pressure plate.

On the photo 18, transfer bracket.

1. Pressure plate.
2. A pressure screw that adjusts the pressure of the bar on the plastic drum.
3. Clamping screw. Adjusts the position of the pin below this screw.
4. Conveyor bar.
5. Rack. (About the shuttle gate).

On the Photo 19, stitch length mechanism, it consists of:

1. Regulator link.
2. A rock. Crack in the channel.
3. Lever arm. Below is a return spring.
4. Mounting screw. Hexagon
5. Seat, adjuster knobs, stitch lengths.
6. Eccentric bushing. Under the fork, traction.

By pressing on the seat, the knob of the regulator, the spring is compressed. If it were not for the nut (which fixes the position of the handle in one position), on the handle, the handle would rise to the top (photo 5). The position of the biscuit changes in the channel, the fork rises higher, since the axle of the biscuit is inserted into the fork. When the main shaft rotates, the eccentric bushing (6) either presses on the bottom of the fork or not. This changes the stitch length.

On the Photo 20, the left end of the main shaft is shown. On which, is located - the crank-connecting rod-mechanism.

1. Needle bar fixing screw.
2. Thread take-up.
3. Needle bar leash.
4. Connecting bracket, needle bar driver with crank.
5. Attachment screw, connecting lever from the copier mechanism with the needle bar frame.
6. Crank.

Here are the reasons the mechanic was called in:

1. A knock is heard when the screws are loosened. - Tighten the screws!
2. There is a lot of play in the lower part of the needle bar, on the bushing.

The needle bar is made of steel 3. Chromed on top.

The owner of the machine ordered the bushing and the needle bar from the factory.

I replaced. The passes are gone.

Machine setup is complete!

Putting the covers in place, I tried to sew.

Elimination of backlash in the machine parts and restoration of the needle bar bushings, as well as restoration of the shuttle, yielded results.

In custody the car is 70% plastic and cheap non-hardened metal. Yes, it is light, almost noisy. It is suitable for teaching in schools. But for home conditions, it is not suitable.