DIY sewing machine repair jaguar

Complex repairs of sewing machines related to the adjustment of units and mechanisms can only be performed by an experienced master. But such repairs are rarely performed, only when a part breaks down at the sewing machine and needs to be replaced with subsequent adjustment.
Most often, the sewing machine begins to "play up" if the rules of its operation, specified in the instructions, are violated or if simple settings and adjustments are not followed.

The main reason leading to a sewing machine malfunction is sewing fabrics that are not intended for this sewing machine model. Sewing a double hem on jeans, replacing a zipper in a leather jacket or bag, etc. - this is the main reason for the appearance of gaps in the stitch, thread breakage, needle breakage. Sometimes this can even lead to a breakdown of the sewing machine, subsequent complex repairs associated with the replacement of parts.

This article provides basic recommendations on how to set up and perform a simple DIY repair of a sewing machine.

Oddly enough, but it is the needle that is the most important part of the machine. During its “life” it makes thousands of punctures in the fabric and is not always light and thin, so sooner or later the needle point becomes dull, and the needle itself bends. And if at least once the needle hits the metal part of the machine body, the tip will bend in the literal and figurative sense of the word.
However, do we pay attention to this? The needle seems to be intact, so everything is fine. But take a magnifying glass and look at its point, its blade will be bent to one side. How would such a point pierce the tissue? There is only one way - to break it.

Now let's see how such a needle will form a stitch.
The thread passing through the eye of the needle will catch on the curved point and “slow down”, creating excess upper thread in the stitch. Here is the first reason the loops appear in the stitching. Moreover, a curved point will cause periodic thread breakage, especially in difficult to sew areas, when the upper thread is extremely stretched.

It turns out that sometimes the whole repair of a sewing machine consists only in replacing the needle.
Treat the needle with great care. Even if it outwardly has no blade defects and is not bent, try to change them more often anyway.
You do not need to throw out the used needles, as there are situations when the needles break one after the other, for example, when sewing a leather bag. Then remember about the jar with old needles.

Another reason for adjusting the sewing machine, especially the old manual machines such as Singer or Podolsk, is the incorrect insertion of the needle into the needle bar. The needle blade (fig. B) should be on the side of the hook nose. Remove the stitch plate and see if this is the case if the machine suddenly begins to twist and break the thread.

It often happens that a seamstress installs a needle from an industrial sewing machine into a household sewing machine. It is impossible to confuse a household needle with an industrial needle. A household needle has a special cut on the flask (Fig. B). But, nevertheless, it is the industrial types of needles that are installed. This absolutely should not be done. Firstly, you break the gap between the hook nose and the needle blade, hence the gaps in the stitches, and secondly, you risk damaging the sewing machine hook. Some commercial needles are noticeably longer than household needles and may touch the surface of the hook, scratch it or even damage the hook.

Figure (A) shows a diagram of how to check the curvature of the needle. Externally, the needle cannot be determined whether it is a curve or not, and if you put it on the glass (2), you can easily check the gap (1).Please note that an uneven, bent needle will cause gaps in the stitching and will break sooner or later.

To make the sewing machine “more confident” to work with fabrics that are difficult to sew, such as knitwear, stretch, thin natural and artificial leather, denim, needles are produced for sewing just such fabrics and materials. They have a special point shape and make it easier for the thread to pass through the fabric, almost eliminating skipped stitches and looping of the upper thread.
See Home sewing machine needles.

The thread looping in the stitching, as well as the characteristic knock during their operation, is perhaps the main difference between sewing machines with a zigzag, such as Chaika, Podolskaya 142 of all models. In short, the looping in the stitching occurs due to the uneven tension of the thread along its path: a broken compensation spring, rusty sole of the foot, the shuttle is incorrectly set, etc. However, it is impossible to set many parameters yourself without experience. Therefore, if you have a poor quality stitch, pay attention first of all to the condition of the needle, to the tension of the lower thread in the bobbin case, and whether the upper thread tensioner is working properly. Very often, children like to disassemble and assemble it, and after such a repair, the machine stops working.

It is sometimes necessary to repair the sewing machine Chaika quite often, and this is not due to the breakdown of parts, the parts are just very strong, but with the misalignment of the interaction of some units of the sewing machine, mainly the shuttle move.
Almost all of these tips for repairing a sewing machine Chaika can be used for other models of household machines.

First of all, check the nose of the shuttle with a magnifying glass, it should not have any chipping or rusty spots. If there are jags, they must be removed with a small file and polished to a shine, otherwise the thread will constantly linger behind the file marks, and loops will appear below. Only this must be done carefully so as not to blunt the tip of the shuttle nose.

Sometimes the bobbin (the bobbin thread is wound around it) can cause repairs to the sewing machine. Yes, it is repair, since an inexperienced "master" often disassembles and assembles all the units, when it is enough to simply replace the old metal bobbin with a new plastic one. If the edges of the metal bobbin are jagged and the bobbin case itself is clogged with thread fleece, the bobbin thread will come out in jerks and the upper thread in the stitching will periodically loop from below.

Often the reason for contacting a sewing machine repairman is that the upper thread is poorly regulated. You are tightening it almost completely, but the tension is still too weak. Look, perhaps, between the tensioner plates, thread fluff has accumulated, which prevents the washers from fully squeezing. The fastening of the tensioner (Chaika) may have loosened.

But still, most often, sewing machines such as the Seagull have a malfunction in the parameters of the shuttle and the needle. This is a complex type of repairing a sewing machine, more precisely adjustments, but for general information it is advisable to know the main reason due to which all the "troubles" of sewing machines occur.

The most common cause of a sewing machine malfunction is the upper thread. Thread breakage, looping in a stitch, uneven stitching, skips, etc. This often depends on the upper thread tensioner.
It is the fastening of the tension regulator (Seagull) that most often causes its poor performance. The plastic body is pressed under the pressure of the screw and over time the tensioner starts to stagger, or even completely "falls out" of the body.

In this photo, arrows indicate the attachment of the needle bar and tensioner. When sewing rough fabrics, intersecting seams on leather goods, and especially when hemming jeans, the needle bar may move upward with the needle.
Loosen the screw slightly and adjust its position, making sure that the blade and needle groove are in the correct position in relation to the hook (not turning left or right).
For details on how to disassemble and assemble the sewing machine tensioner, see the article "The device of the sewing machine tensioner Chaika".

Adjusting the shuttle mechanism of sewing machines performing zigzag stitching by Chaika, Podolsk, Veritas and others implies setting the position of the looper point above the needle eye by 1.2 (3) mm at the moment the looper point approaches the needle. This parameter is checked when the sewing machine sews not only the straight stitch, but also the left and right needle drop (when sewing the zigzag stitch).
The point of the shuttle must at the same time pass almost closely to the blade of the needle - this is the second condition that allows you to form a stitch without gaps.

In this photo, the arrow indicates the fastening of the shuttle shaft. Loosen the screw with a 10-point wrench, and holding the handwheel by hand, you can turn the shaft (together with the shuttle stroke) by adjusting the position of the hook nose in relation to the needle.

However, these are not all of the parameters for adjusting the interaction of the hook nose and the needle. There is such a parameter as the timeliness of the approach of the shuttle nose to the needle, namely at the moment when the needle starts to rise. The needle drops to the lowest point, and when raised by 1.8-2.0 mm, it should meet the nose of the shuttle, the shuttle removes the loop from the needle and wraps around itself.

But that's not all. For sewing machines performing a zigzag stitch, there is such a thing as right and left needle prick. With the left and right prick of the needle, the nose of the shuttle should “confidently” remove the loop formed above the eye of the needle. It should run slightly above the eye of the needle, but less than the distance of the eye of the needle itself, about 1 mm.

However, such adjustments are often not required to be performed, it is enough just to check with a magnifying glass how the shuttle interacts with the needle and make sure that repairs, adjusting the sewing machine are not needed, and look for another reason. For example, change the threads, thread them correctly, change the needle, clean the shuttle from dust and fleece, etc.
To make it easier for you to repair the sewing machine, disassemble the shuttle move and study its device. Observe how the stitch is formed when the stitch plate is removed. At the same time, check all the shuttle settings described above. See also How the sewing hook works.

The settings above can be used as a guide if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself. As a rule, the machine will work normally with such gaps, but if you need to sew knitted fabrics that are too thin (silk) or, on the contrary, thickened fabrics, you need a more accurate adjustment of these parameters, which can only be set by the master.

In many cases, sewing machine repairs will not be necessary as long as the sewing machine is kept clean and lubricated periodically. If a seamstress takes care of her machine, then, therefore, she will protect it from overloading during work, not give it into the “wrong” hands, which means that the sewing machine will break less often.

After prolonged operation, clean the bobbin compartment and other accessible places from dust, fleece, oil stains. The shuttle itself and the shuttle mechanism should be periodically cleaned with a stiff hair brush. It is advisable to lubricate the machine at least once every six months, and after lubricating it, run it “idle” a little, especially if the machine is not used for a long time. During operation, the oil heats up slightly and penetrates better into units and places of friction.

It is better to draw machine oil into a medical syringe and bury it in small drops in accessible places where there is friction of metal parts.

The big enemy of all mechanisms is dirt and rust, try to keep the car in a cool, dry place. If the machine will not be used for a long time, protect it from dust, otherwise the oil from the dust will harden, and the machine will turn tightly, or even jam. This case is considered in the article Podolsk Manual Sewing Machine.

Inexpensive Sewing Machine: Pros and Cons
In this article, we will figure out whether such a combination is possible - "an inexpensive and good machine" and how an inexpensive sewing machine that costs 3-4 thousand rubles differs from a machine that costs 30 thousand.

We sew knitwear without gaps and looping
Many who tried to sew knitwear on an ordinary sewing machine noticed that the machine often refuses to make a beautiful and even stitch. There are gaps in the knitted stitching, the lower thread loops and sometimes breaks. Why is this happening and how can you fix it?

What is the difference between a carpetlock and an overlocker and a coverlock
The coverlock is a modern and versatile machine that can overcast fabrics, sew cover stitches and even stitch parts like a regular sewing machine. But it is impossible to repair such a sewing machine with your own hands, you must definitely contact the service center.

Decorative stitching in difficult areas
Sometimes it is required to make a perfectly even decorative stitch on the product, but you cannot draw a line with chalk - traces will remain, and there is not enough experience to scribble "by eye". Simple tips on how to sew on “difficult” areas.

What to buy a sewing machine
For those who rarely sew simple products or occasionally perform minor repairs on clothes, you can buy an inexpensive economy-class sewing machine. It performs almost all operations, is easy to operate, and most importantly, for such a machine, it will be cheaper to build repairs if suddenly it is needed.

Tips for setting up an overlock
The overlock is much more complex than sewing machines. It is almost impossible to repair an overlock without special knowledge and skills. However, repair or adjustment is not always required, sometimes it is enough just to adjust the thread tension and it will again overcast the fabric with high quality.

Sewing a dress with your own hands
How to sew a dress with your own hands. Technology and sequence of sewing dresses for beginners.

How to make a pattern and other tips for beginners
How to make a pattern, what tools are needed for this. These and many other tips for beginners.

Compact electric simple zigzag sewing machine. The machine body is made of plastic and consists of two halves. They are held together with four screws: at the top are short screws 1 and 3 (rice. 164), bottom long screws 5 and 4... Screw inlet from the back. When assembling, you must first be able to lower the screws into the deep hole 5 and 4which should fit into their threaded, upright bushings, then put short screws in the same way in the deep holes 1 and 3.

Rice. 164. Appearance (from the back) of the Jaguar sewing machine:

The electric motor of the sewing machine "Jaguar" has the following technical data: D = 36 mm, 1 (without pulley) = 57 mm, power - 15 watts. For comparison: the Polish electric motor TUR-2 has a power of 90 watts. The entire sewing machine is 95% plastic. Even the shuttle is made of two materials - the belt is made of metal, everything else is made of plastic.

The shuttle is right-handed, swinging in a vertical plane.

In order to set the desired distance from the shuttle to the needle when it is in the lowest position (and this distance on the left stab of the zigzag is 1 mm), it is necessary to do the following operations:

1. Remove the electric motor with transformer block.
2. Remove the needle.
3. Swivel the feed dog - feed feed to the upper position and secure.
4. Unscrew the two screws securing the shuttle travel housing.
5. Raise the shuttle travel housing together with the left end of the horizontal drive rack that drives the shuttle pusher.
6. Tilt the left side of the shuttle travel housing slightly upward and carefully disengage the drive rack with the gear. Here, exercise the utmost attention and care so as not to break the plastic toothed rack-drive, which is pivotally connected with a plastic rivet to the vertical plastic lever.
7. Move the toothed rack-drive 1 tooth to the right or to the left (decide in place) in engagement with the cylindrical driven gear of the shuttle pusher.
8. Replace the shuttle travel body, attach it with two screws, place the needle, lower the needle bar to its lowest position and see what is the distance between the hook nose and the needle. If the hook point is to the left of the needle by 5-7 mm or to the right by 3-4 mm, repeat the whole operation from the beginning.

If the nose of the hook is to the left of the needle by 3-4 mm or to the right by 1-2 mm, fine-adjust the position of the hook. Loosen the screw for adjusting the position of the hook relative to the needle and, moving the toothed rack-drive to the right or left, set the distance between the needle and the hook nose to 1 mm.

Place the needle on the right zigzag stitch. Bringing the nose of the shuttle to the needle, achieve their meeting at a distance of 1 mm above the upper edge of the eye of the needle. Adjust by vertical offset of the needle bar. There are difficulties here in that for the inner nut of the adjusting screw of the needle bar level, a hexagonal socket wrench is needed, and the width of the edge is 1 mm. There is nowhere to take it, and it is not attached to the car. Therefore, it is better to replace it with an ordinary headless screw with M4 thread. How can you service the machine with such an unprecedentedly complex adjustment (adjustment)?

The shuttle in diameter and height (axis) corresponds to the shuttle from the "Chaika" machine. But the height of its girdle is 3.5 mm, and the height of the girdle of the "Chaika" machine shuttle is 4.5 mm.

The needle bar is of very low hardness and has a play in the frame, which is clearly felt by the hand, which is clearly unacceptable for a sewing machine. The needle is close to the back wall in the needle hole.

It is necessary to remove the needle bar and bend it forward by 0.4-0.5 mm. To remove the needle bar, you need to: remove the shuttle travel housing, lower the feed dog - fabric motor and pull the needle bar down. When installing the needle bar, it is necessary to catch again the toothed connection of the lower plastic rack-drive of the shuttle with the spur gear.

When sewing, the result is not a straight stitch, but a wavy line.

The block of copying disks is made in one piece with the driven gear (rice. 165).

Rice. 165. Detail - plastic driven gear with a block of copying discs (Jaguar machine):

• Diagnostics;
• Replacement of the shuttle;
• Technical consultation;
• Stitch setting;
• Removal of unusable grease, lubrication by technology;
• Cleaning and lubrication;
• Completion of units and parts;
• General adjustment (adjustment of two or more units);
• Partial adjustment (adjustment of one unit);
• Minor repairs (replacement of the electric cord, repair of the drive handle, etc.);
• Repair of the friction mechanism;
• Replacing the pusher spring;

• Replacing the stitch plate;
• Replacement of the winding unit;
• Replacement of an external electric drive;
• Replacement of the internal electric drive;
• Replacement of the manual electric drive;
• Replacing the leg strap;
• Replacing the drive belt;
• Replacement of the yarn guide (links);
• Replacing the chain belt;
• Replacing the stitching block;
• Replacing the copier unit (block);
• Replacement of the upper or lower shaft;
• Replacing the thread tensioner;
• Replacing the shuttle socket;
• And much more.

Astralux, Aurora, Aiko, Baby Lock, Brother, Bernina, Bernetta, Boutiquae, Comfort, Csepel, Dragonfly, Duerkopp Adler, Elna, Husqvarna, Jaguar, Juki, Janome, Knoch, Kоhler, Leader, Lucznik, Merrylock, Micron, Malva, Minerva, Naumann, Orsha, Pfaff, Protex, Phoenix, Pannonia, Prima, Radom, Singer, Siruba, Toyota, TYPICAL, Textima, Union, Veritas, Yamata, PMZ, Lada, Tula, Chaika, Podolsk, Belka, Kharkiv, Ilyana, and many others.

1) Simple self-taught people to whom their grandfather showed a couple of times how to set up a sewing machine, as a rule, these are people who do not fully understand the whole principle of the sewing technique!

2) Some mechanics deliberately do their job poorly, leave pieces of fabric in the machine and do not fully tighten the nuts and screws, so that you turn to them again for repairs, but this will be a completely different reason for the breakdown and they will ask you for money as for a new renovation!

3) Young and inexperienced guys who did not study to be mechanics for the repair of sewing equipment and did not undergo the practice of repair, adjustment at sewing factories or specialized sewing workshops!

4) Most mechanics do not have the opportunity to purchase parts, since there is no volume of orders for repairs, and therefore they use either old parts from old machines, or not of high quality, the life of your machine after such a repair leaves much to be desired!

5) Do not immediately speak on the phone the amount of the repair when you ask? pulling the cat by the tail, they say, you need to watch? This is done so that after your work, you can throw in a couple of hundred, or even thousands of rubles for repairs!

6) Some mechanics often change contact numbers so as not to be responsible for their mistakes and not spend money on the road to you, since last time they 100% guaranteed you that if something happens, they will come to you and everything is free will be repaired.

7) Irresponsible masters who are late on the appointed day and hour and do not warn you about it! They may come drunk, or they may just forget about you!

8) As a rule, not professionals, they get into this field of activity in order to make some money, and underestimate the amount by almost 50% of the real cost of repairs, just to get your order! We all understand that it is possible not to expect high-quality service from such a master, and your equipment will most likely not last long, and repairing a car for a new mechanic after the jambs of the previous mechanic is 2 times more difficult and, accordingly, more expensive!

1) Our mechanics were trained in special universities and technical schools back in the USSR, they have crusts and 10 years of practice behind them!

2) We do our work with high quality and for many years! Let it be better that you contact us for the second time in 5 years after our repair, but for that you will advise us to neighbors, relatives and friends as a good workshop, than contact us in 3 months already for a new repair due to our negligence!

3) Each of our mechanics has at least 15 years of experience in sewing factories or sewing equipment repair shops!

4) People turn to us every day! We serve not only individuals, but also garment factories, tailoring and repair shops, etc., so we have reliable suppliers of parts for both household and industrial sewing equipment!

5) We announce the amount of the repair right away, based on the description of your problem for which you turned to us for help. The amount is announced (for example) from 1000 rubles. up to 1500 p. with or without details!

6) We have been working in the market for the repair of sewing equipment for over 11 years, many organizations and ordinary citizens know us firsthand, we value our customers, so we are always in touch 7 days a week, from 9:00 to 20:00!

7) We have operators who accept, distribute and remind about applications, so no mechanic will miss or forget a single client, and in case of force majeure situations, the client will simply be simply notified!

8) We have only experienced mechanics who have worked half their lives in this area, who know their job like no other! That is why, after our repair, our clients have been using their equipment for years without knowing any problems. We advise all users of sewing equipment to treat their machines as carefully as possible and not to use the services of masters from unverified sources, since poor-quality repairs or adjustments entail complete disruption and new breakdowns of all functions of the sewing mechanism!

The company "ShveiMaster" (hereinafter referred to as the "Agent") provides a service to the Client (hereinafter referred to as the "User") for the selection of a qualified foreman (hereinafter referred to as the "Principal") to perform a household contract.

For the User, the Agent's services are free of charge, and the Principal bears the burden of costs. Issues related to the quality of performance and warranty for work (provision of services), the User decides with the Principal. The Agent is not responsible for the work performed (services rendered) of the Principal. The user has the right to conclude an agreement with the Principal for the provision of services (works) before starting work.

To expedite the call of the Principal to eliminate the consequences of the warranty case, the User can contact the Agent, the Agent will send a message to the Principal about the occurrence of the warranty event (to contact you need to know the order number).The Agent is not responsible for the speed of the Principal's response to the User's request regarding the occurrence of a warranty case.

By contacting the Agent and leaving an application for the selection of the Principal, the User agrees to transfer his personal data to third parties, that is, to the potential executors of the order - the Principals, in the amount that he provided to the Agent. The Agent, when transmitting information about the User, uses open channels for transmitting information, SMS and Email.

By contacting the Agent and leaving an application for the selection of the Principal, the User agrees to the transfer and processing of his personal data to third parties in accordance with the Federal Law of July 27, 2006 No. 152-FZ "On Personal Data", through open channels of SMS information transmission and Email.

By contacting the Agent and leaving an order for the selection of the Principal, the User agrees to send SMS messages on behalf of the sender of the Agent to the mobile phone number that he indicated when placing the order.

The mechanism of the JAGUAR sewing machine differs from the mechanisms of other models produced at that time. Let's see how it works.

In fig. 1 shows a front view. Here: 1. machine switch for three positions - from right to left - off, average speed, maximum speed; 2. Regulator of stitch length; 3. Knob for stitch selection; 4. Upper thread tension regulator (RNVN); 5. Removable table-pencil case.

Stitch length dial permanently spring-loaded upwards. There is a thread on its rod, along which, when rotating, the adjusting nut moves. When turned clockwise, the nut moves deeper into the machine, thereby reducing the stitch length. Just like on Podolsk 2M or Chaika 3, only there is an arbitrary installation due to a disk washer.

Automation handle switches with a click, stitch width changes in the same way with a click, that is, by a certain distance. There is no separate adjuster for this machine.

Let's go further, the side of the car has a socket for connecting to a 220V network. The number 1 marks the hole through which, on some models of machines, we have access to the fastening of the stitch length adjuster lever. see fig. 2. Flywheel does not have a friction mechanism, so it is not particularly convenient to wind the thread on the bobbin on this machine. The pedal jack is also not visible.

The rear view is shown in fig. 3. At the very bottom there is a plate with information about the machine. Almost all the holes are closed with plugs, but for disassembly we will need to unscrew only the ones marked with the number 1. A fastening device is visible on the machine stand, a reel seat is inserted into it.
In work, sometimes you need to flash something narrow. On this car pencil case very easy to remove, just slide it to the left. It also needs to be removed to replace the bobbin, as it blocks access to the bobbin.

Figure 5 shows a close-up of the machine control knobs. The arrow on the shuttle shows the place where the needle hits if the adjustment is incorrect or there is a large backlash in the mechanism for transferring motion from the main shaft to the shuttle.

Damage to the hook by the needle is common in this model. If this happens, then the machine immediately started skipping, tearing the upper thread.

The upper thread clings to the sharp edges of the potholes, which also does not make the machine work well.

If you suddenly have to disassemble such a model, then pay attention to Figure 6.
This is how the hex screwdriver should be inserted into the bolt that secures the stitch length adjustment knob.

Sometimes the fastening mechanism looks to the right with its bolt, then the screw driver must be inserted into the hole from the right side.

Attention! Do not try to disassemble frame products until you unscrew the fastening screw and remove the stitch length knob.

Before we begin to disassemble the JAGUAR sewing machine, you must:
- remove the needle;
- remove the foot. Here the foot with the holder is made as a single unit;
- remove the stitch plate by unscrewing the two screws.On this machine, we need a Phillips screwdriver.

1. Mounting screw; 2. Needle plate; 3. Needle holder; 4. Needle clamp screw; 5. Presser foot; 6. Screw for attaching the foot.

Figure 7 shows the same assembly, only with dismantled parts.

If you have the same machine, and not only this one, after you have removed the stitch plate for cleaning, maintenance, etc. - check the tightness fabric conveyor... The fastening screws are indicated here as 5.

The feed (4) itself must be exactly in the middle of the slot in the throat plate and be strictly parallel to the edges of the hole. If this rule is not observed (fulfilled), then it is necessary to loosen the fastening screws, achieve the above and tighten both screws tightly.
Well, now let's look at the reason for the owner of the mini Jaguar sewing machine for repair. Figure 8 shows a close-up shuttle... Here we see that the surface of the shuttle at the point of entry of the needle and gripping the needle thread with the hook nose very badly damaged. This shuttle needs to be changed. But since the shuttle here has a thinner working surface, it will not work with another model of the machine. I had to restore this shuttle. If possible, large potholes were removed, all edges and edges were rounded and polished, the nose of the shuttle was polished, but until the whole machine was assembled, it was not possible to check the operation of the shuttle.

After unscrewing all (four) screws marked with 1 in fig. 3 you need to lift the front cover and remove the connectors shown in fig. 9. The wires in the blue connector lead to the speed switch and will prevent us from removing the front cover.

In Figure 10, we see two halves of the sewing machine.

Attention. When assembling back the body products, be careful when inserting the bolts (self-tapping screws) into place. They can fall into the case and you will have to disassemble everything again.

Figure 11 shows a close-up thread take-up unit... If you have already dealt with sewing machines, you will notice that the thread take-up unit here is different from other machines. The thread take-up unit itself stands at one end on the axis in the machine body, and its groove is put on the crank axis. At this point, the thread take-up can generate a groove in the axle, then knocking and backlash will appear in operation.

1. Needle bar. 2. Needle bar fixing screw. 3. Connecting arm. 4. Crank 5. Thread take-up 6. Eccentric of the main shaft. 7. Screw securing the connecting arm and needle bar frame. At this point, the needle bar is adjusted in the lateral position.

Machine rack details are shown in Figure 12.

1. Control board
2. Electric drive
3. Worm
4. Mechanism of automation.

Since the machine had a strong backlash in the shuttle drive, it was necessary to remove the board with the transformer, it was screwed on with two screws, see fig. 13 to gain access to the parts on the underside of the machine.

Now access to the details is open, first we will consider the details of the table on the left side. see fig. 14.

Bobbin case fastened to the rear of the machine. Access is closed with a plug. Shuttle pusher (2) driven by a toothed rack (4)

Shuttle differs from similar ones on modern machines both by the method of fastening, and by the size, and by the motion drive. The rail moves in a straight line to the left - to the right. The position of the rail sets the course of the machine.

1. Shuttle body; 2. Shuttle pusher; 3. Pusher spring; 4. Gear rack; 5.Flip cover of the shuttle compartment; 6. Mounting bracket; 7. Locking ring latches; 8. Conveyor lift shaft.

If we look at the car to the right. then we will see the adjusting unit and the right end of the conveyor lift shaft. To the right, a clip adhered to the engine housing, which flew off the axis of the connecting lever, transmitting movement from the main shaft to the gear shaft.
Attention. Here is the cause of the breakdown. There was a backlash and, accordingly, malfunctions, the clip fell off and a backlash appeared.

By releasing the adjusting screw, you can change the position of the lower end of the connecting lever, respectively, the time of the approach of the hook nose to the needle changes.

In Figure 16, you can see in more detail the structure and operation of parts in the machine rack.

Link arm (1) swings on the axle (2). The stroke is adjusted by changing the position of the lower end of the connecting lever, which transfers the movement to the gear shaft (5). Below the bolt (3) there is a pin on which the end of the conveyor lift shaft (4) rests.

To the right, you can see the propelling link arm (fork). This fork is responsible for transmitting the movement of the tissue conveyor. In the upper part, it rests on the advance eccentric, then through the stone it is connected to the stitch length regulator link and, at the very bottom, to the crank of the fabric conveyor motor shaft.

To get a better look stitch length adjustment unit remove the limiting bar, look
figure 17

1. Regulator link; 2. Stone; 3. Lever; 4. Mounting screw; 5. Hole of the adjustment knob; 6. Promotional eccentric.
By changing the position of the lever (3), the position of the regulator wings changes. The stone in the curtain begins to move along a different profile and, accordingly, the stitch length changes.

Swinging the lever (1) Figure 16, grasping it at the bottom, it is possible to determine if there is any backlash in the motion transmission system from the main shaft to the shuttle. If there is a decent backlash in this place, then it needs to be eliminated. The fact is that in the upper part this lever has a cylinder that runs in the groove of a large cylinder attached to the main shaft, see Figures 18 and 19.

These figures show a device for converting the movement of rotation of the main shaft into translational (linear) movements of the gear rack. Also very clearly visible is the worm (1) of the automation mechanism, which is fastened with screws (2) (Fig. 18)

In Figure 19, circuit 1 marks the control mechanism for almost all parts of the bottom of the machine. We can clearly see the groove (2) for the connecting lever. The bearing (5) of the main shaft (4) is fastened with a screw (6)

The part highlighted by the outline consists of several parts, made as a whole. Do not touch it unless there is an urgent need.

The left main shaft is shown in Figure 20. Main shaft (1) is adjusted with an adjusting washer (2), which is secured with screws (3). Main shaft eccentric (4) is attached to the main shaft with a pin (5). The screw (6), with the help of which the movement is transmitted to the thread take-up (7), is painted over so that it is not touched again and also so that it does not self-unscrew. The connecting lever (8) with a crank moves in the thread take-up and on the cylinder; after prolonged operation, a groove may form and a backlash appears, which can be eliminated by bending the thread take-up.

When we looked at the case from the back side, we agreed that we only tighten the screws (1), why? Because on the inside, they can end with a pin or an axis, as in Figure 21, positions 1 and 2. The connecting lever (3) on the axis (2) should not have any play and should be fastened with a clip that flew off and stuck to the engine. Due to this, a backlash appeared, the stroke changed and the needle broke the shuttle. The gear lever (4) on the right side had no backlash. We rise higher - the adjusting unit, everything is fine here too. A little higher is the axis, after fixing this unit with a clip, it also began to function normally. If there is a backlash between the cylinder and the groove in the main shaft cylinder, then you can get rid of it by bending the upper end of the lever towards you.
The advance shaft (5) by means of the crank (6) transfers the movement to the tissue conveyor using the fork (9).
Presser bar (7) this car is black. The thread take-up is very visible (8)

The drive unit of this sewing machine is shown in Figure 22. Here: 1. motor; 2. fastening screws; 3. toothed belt; 4. Gear; 5. Bracket
The installation of this unit on the machine is not difficult, it is just necessary to withstand the condition of ease of movement and the absence of backlash.

Reinstalling the parts that were removed, I think, will not be difficult for you. I put everything in place. The course in this car was selected individually, it turned out to be approximately
2.45 mm. I installed the front cover by connecting the electrical wiring and tried to flash it on this machine, you will see the result in Fig. 23

As it turned out, the elimination of the backlash in the machine parts and the restoration of the shuttle led to a good result.

P.S. What I would like to say in conclusion - this machine is very delicate, of course, even coarse fabrics can be sewn, but not worth it. It is easy to move it to any place, work on it and remove it, it will not take up much space. The low sewing speed and the absence of a pedal are not very depressing. There are exactly the same machines with a power button on the sleeve and a pedal-button. For a good, permanent job, if someone sews at home, it will not work.

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