DIY sewing machine repair seagull 134a

The Chaika sewing machine is perhaps the most popular model of the home sewing machine, despite the abundance of imported home sewing machines in stores. At one time, I had to buy it for a lot of money, and it seemed like recently it was still sewing well, but it just began to twist. It is almost impossible for her to really break. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the components are strong and reliable - everything is in the style of Soviet technology. But here, unfortunately, she dodges almost "from birth" and knocks when sewing, like a machine gun.

Many other "charms" were provided by the plant together with instructions for the device and use, where almost 5 pages describe how the pedal works, an electrical diagram of the engine is given, but not a word about how to set up and carry out repairs sewing machine seagull.

The Chaika sewing machine has many models, practically not much different from each other: Chaika 2; 3; 142m; 132; 134; 143, etc. The sewing machines of the Podolsk plant: Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1 others, as well as the Malva sewing machine, have approximately the same device as the Chaika. Therefore, the instructions for one of these machines are quite suitable for any model of a full zigzag sewing machine, such as the Seagull.

Setting up, adjusting and repairing sewing machines Chaika is practically the same for all models mentioned above, except for the repair of the copier (depending on the model of the machine) and setting some parameters of the shuttle course. But since our task is to learn how to customize only a line, we will omit the repair of many nodes in this article. In addition, such repairs cannot be done with your own hands, without professional knowledge and experience, and even at home.

Before proceeding with the repair and adjustment of the Chaika sewing machine with your own hands, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, and lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws from the top). Detach the foot, remove the needle and stitch plate, and the hook cover. Detach the clipper from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the bobbin: bobbin case, locking ring, hook. Now remove dust, dirt, fleece from the machine (especially in the shuttle section) and lubricate all rubbing accessible places with machine oil well. The places that need to be lubricated can be found in the instructions for the machine or all accessible rubbing metal parts and assemblies can be lubricated.

It is very convenient to use a medical disposable syringe for lubrication, just select such a size that it fits in the neck of the container with oil. The needle must be removed when “filling” with oil.

The main malfunction in machines of the "Seagull" type, performing a zigzag stitch and on its basis several types of finishing stitches - these are gaps, looping of the lower and upper threads, as well as thread breakage at the top and bottom. It is these malfunctions and ways to eliminate them that we will consider in this article.

Thread breakage most often occurs with sewing machines such as the Seagull. The first reason that leads to thread breakage is the bent point of a blunt needle, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the condition of the needle point is very clearly visible.
Use correct sewing machine needles and the Chaika sewing machine, in accordance with the instructions.

Thread breakage can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, then the thread will periodically break. When sewing a straight stitch, the needle should be in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly spaced from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the needle position L should be the same with R.

The longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle slot is carried out by displacing the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker, in the upper part of the machine (scroll the handwheel on the zigzag line and you will see this attachment).
Loosen these screws and set (on a straight stitch) the needle exactly in the center (by moving the needle bar frame). Then check the position of the needle at the left and right pricks. Hopefully the entry of the needle (at the maximum zigzag width), on the right and left, will be evenly spaced from the center. If it touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag - contact the expert, this case is already for him.

The transverse position of the needle is adjusted by a rod, fixed on a plate with two screws, and a plate that presses the needle bar frame to the rod of the bracket. Adjusting this unit is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously get lost during operation, especially the Chaika electric sewing machine. Therefore, if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust the position of the needle, since the forward shift of the needle is the cause of its breakage, and the shift away from the seamstress is the cause of omissions.

Adjusting the needle position requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the wizard, as it can cause other nodes to malfunction, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.

It can be added that when using a curved needle, notches can form on the nose of the shuttle, which "loosen" the thread and break. The nose of the shuttle should be perfectly smooth and sharp, without roughness. Its condition can be determined by running your fingernail along the edge of the nose or using a magnifying glass. The pressure plate tightening screw must not be serrated, the latch handle must be clearly fixed and its surface must be clean and smooth. The shuttle itself must also be perfectly clean, free of chipping and rusty spots.

When sewing rough fabrics, the needle sometimes moves upward with the needle bar. Skipping stitch appears. In this photo, arrows indicate where the needle bar screw and the upper thread tensioner screw are located.

Incorrect sewing machine hook position leads to thread breakage and other stitching defects, including gaps. Skips usually appear due to the wrong position of the shuttle at the moment of meeting the needle - the nose of the shuttle does not catch the formed loop, it passes by and a skip is formed. Many other factors can be the cause.

In order to correctly set the position of the meeting point of the shuttle and the needle, it is necessary to adjust the position of the shuttle stroke. Loosen the two bolts that secure it and carefully, using a powerful screwdriver, move or delay the stroke together with the shuttle in relation to the needle. The shuttle travel rotates on an axis rather than moving back and forth. This is a very important point. It is not necessary to pull it out with a nail puller or hammer it in with a hammer, it easily turns on its axis. It is difficult for an inexperienced person to immediately understand what is at stake, but it is also very difficult to explain in more detail. Anything else that can be added, sort it out carefully before twisting something, and even more so unscrewing it. There should be no remaining parts after repair.

At the moment of meeting the nose of the shuttle and the blade of the needle, the following parameters must be observed: the gap between the nose and the blade is approximately 0.15 mm; when the needle comes out of the lower position to a height of 1.8 - 2.0 mm, the nose should come up to it above the needle eye by 1 mm, at least, but not more than 3 mm.
By the way, a very important point is lifting the needle from the lower position (1.8 - 2.0 mm). This parameter affects the formation of the needle loop and should be paid special attention to. In order for the spout to grab the thread from the needle, it is necessary that a loop is formed, where it goes, hooking it.That is why the needle must first go down and then, rising a little, already meet the nose of the looper.

The position of the needle is also regulated by the needle bar, for this there is a screw for attaching it to the bushing under the front cover (see above).

If you set these shuttle adjustment parameters, then sewing machine "Seagull" will work relatively fine. But, unfortunately, this is not the end of the repair. There are also many other shuttle settings, which are quite complex and necessary for the Chaika sewing machine. It is there that the reasons for thread looping and such a rare phenomenon for sewing machines are hidden - a breakage of the lower thread. The complexity of the presentation of this material is that for almost any model of the sewing machine "Seagull" engineers have provided their own specifics of setting up this unit and, moreover, requiring a lot of experience from the performer. For which I thank them, at least from the sewing machine repairmen. They will not remain without work as long as there are sewing machines "Chaika".

Sometimes you have to remove the flywheel from the machine. There are only three parts in this node, but many cannot assemble it correctly. This is due to the fact that it would be more logical to insert the friction washer petals inside the shaft slot, therefore they do this. As a result, the machine starts spinning empty.
The petals should be directed not towards the machine body (shaft), but towards you. Moreover, they can be delivered in “two versions”, choose one in which the stop screw will not interfere with tightening the flywheel mount.

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Podolsk sewing machine
The most reliable and easy-to-use sewing machine, as well as the Chaika sewing machine, is "originally" from the USSR, but unlike Chaika, it almost does not break and is capable of sewing any thick and rough fabrics, including leather.

DIY sewing machine repair
The thread looping in the stitching is perhaps the main difference between sewing machines with a zigzag, such as Chaika, Podolskaya of all models, as well as a characteristic knock when working. In short, the looping in the stitching occurs due to uneven tension of the thread along its path: broken compensation spring, rusty sole of the foot, incorrectly set shuttle, etc.

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We sew knitwear without gaps and looping
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In the last century, the Seagull sewing machine was very common. It was in short supply; at some times, the Chaika sewing machine could only be bought by appointment for a year. This machine can be used to sew light and medium materials. Sewing on the Chaika sewing machine is possible with a straight stitch and a zigzag stitch.The large flywheel, like most modern sewing machines, rotates towards itself. Seagulls often break before, and now break even more often. However, it is not at all necessary to throw out an old, obsolete sewing machine in a landfill. You can try to repair it yourself. If all else fails, then you have nothing to lose.

There are several common malfunctions of the Chaika sewing machine:

The sewing machine skips stitches.

The needle breaks constantly.

Poor stitching.

1. Skipped stitches appear for several reasons. Be sure to check if the needle is bent. You should pay attention to this as soon as you sit down to sew. If the entire needle is straight, watch how it goes through the hole in the needle plate. The needle should pass through the middle of this hole in the plate. If this does not happen, then you need to open the top cover.

To do this, unscrew the 2 screws on the cover. On the left side is the needle bar, which is a long, vertical bar on which the needle is attached. This whole structure is attached to the frame. There the needle bar goes up and down, there is a small ring with 2 screws. This ring may be loose. Then it is necessary to slightly loosen the screws and push the ring close. Next, lower the needle bar, or raise it with a clamp. There is a screw on the clamp. With the screw slightly loosened, place the needle bar right in the middle of the notch. This small notch is on the needle bar. If you installed it correctly once, then you can no longer touch it, just tighten the screws firmly. In general, gaps are most often due to a bent needle.

2. Breaks a needle. The needle may break due to how accurately the carriage taper passes the needle. Turn the car on its side, and below you will see plywood - remove it. On the left side, you will see the hook - this is where the carriage with the bobbin case and bobbin is installed. The carriage is secured with a flat latch. Remove the latch and leave the carriage in place. Turn the handwheel towards you and see how the carriage fits to the needle. The sharp tip of the carriage should be slightly above the eye of the needle from 2x to 4mm. The sewing machine has a zigzag stitch - that's why we install it. To avoid skipping stitches and breaking the needle, the point of the carriage must pass next to the needle. Next to the carriage assembly on the left side of the carriage axis there are 2 white bolts. Unscrew them and slide the carriage assembly towards the needle slightly. You just need to do it very carefully. If you push or move a little more, it will break the needle, and otherwise, do not grab the thread.

Although the Soviet-made sewing machine Seagull is famous for its reliability, nevertheless, every owner of such a rare technique will certainly have to at least in general terms understand what the repair of Seagull includes. These sewing machines sew excellently, provided they are serviced regularly. Moreover, having understood the device and the principle of operation, the repair of the Chaika sewing machines will not be very difficult.

The main malfunction of Seagull sewing machines is skipping stitches, looping of the lower or better thread, its breakage. However, it is best to start repairing the Seagull not with the problem itself, but with a routine inspection, cleaning and lubrication.

1. To do this, it is necessary to disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover by unscrewing the two fastening screws.
2. Next, you need to detach the foot, remove the needle, stitch plate, and the shuttle cover.
3. The machine itself must be disconnected from the wooden stand, disassemble the shuttle.
4. And now you can clean the machine from dust, dirt, fleece.
5. After that, using an ordinary medical syringe, you can fill all the rubbing parts with machine oil and lubricate all accessible places well.

After carrying out all the preparatory measures (in principle, this is nothing more than setting up the sewing machine), you can proceed directly to the repair: identifying the causes of the breakdown and eliminating them.

Thread breakage in sewing machines A seagull can occur due to the bent point of a blunt needle. It is easy to see this under a magnifying glass.

When operating sewing machines Seagull, it is advisable to use serviceable needles and are designed specifically for this model in accordance with the instructions.

Also, the thread may break due to the fact that the needle may touch it when entering the needle hole. It can be positioned in the center of the needle slot by moving the needle bar frame, which is screwed onto the rocker arm. This is what the repair will be about.

For example, if during work the lateral position of the needle spontaneously got lost (which happens quite often in Chaika sewing machines), then, most likely, it will be better for the repair to be carried out by the master. This breakdown may be the reason for misalignment of some other components.

It will not be superfluous to examine the pedal for the sewing machine for breakdowns.

There are also many other settings that are quite difficult to repair yourself. This is, for example, repairing the shuttle course. This is where the causes of looping can be hidden.

For almost every model of the Chaika sewing machine, engineers have developed their own characteristics for setting up and repairing this unit. Therefore, it is better to entrust such delicate work to a sewing equipment repair specialist.

The instruction of the Chaika sewing machine can be used as an operating manual for any model of sewing machines that perform a zigzag stitch of the Chaika type: Chaika 2, Chaika 3, Chaika 134.

This instruction for the Chaika sewing machine is also suitable for the Malva sewing machines and the Podolsk brand: Podolsk 142, Podolsk 142M, etc.

These operating instructions for the sewing machine are given in abbreviated form, based on the manufacturer's instructions.
The operation and device of the Podolsk and Chaika sewing machine is practically the same type, therefore this operating manual is suitable for all models of these sewing machines, including the Malva sewing machine. They have the same structure and differ only in the presence of additional types of zigzag stitching. Some Chaika and Podolskaya models have an additional device (copier) for this and, accordingly, a lever for switching modes of its operation. The shuttle device, threading and adjustment parameters of the units and mechanisms of these sewing machines are practically the same, with the exception of setting some settings for the shuttle operation parameters (depending on the machine model).
For details on how to set up and perform minor repairs of sewing machines like the Seagull, see other articles in the section dedicated to repairing sewing machines.

1. Shuttle device. 2. Platform. 3. Stitch plate. 4. Pressing foot. 5. Needle bar. i6. Presser foot lifter. 7. Upper thread tension dial. 8. Top and front covers. 9. Thread take-up lever. 10. Tension washers. 11. Index of the type of stitches. 12. Zigzag width indicator. 13. Spool pin. 14. Winder. 15. Flywheel. 16. Needle bias lever. 17. Zigzag handle. 18. Lever for reverse feed. 19. Knob of the stitch length regulator. 20. Knob of the comb lift regulator. 21. Material engine. 22. Panel of figures. 23. Knob for switching the copier unit.

Fine silk, cambric - needle No. 70, thread - 65
Bed linen, calico, chintz, satin, silk, linen fabrics - needle No. 80, thread - 65
Heavy cotton fabrics, coarse calico, flannel, thin woolen fabrics, heavy grades of silk - needle No. 90
Woolen suit - no. Needles 100
Thick woolen coat fabrics, broadcloth - needle No. 110

Needle 1 must be inserted into the needle holder 2 (at the upper position of the needle bar) up to the stop and secured with the screw 3.
The flat side of the flask 4 (flat) on the needle should be facing in the opposite direction from the working person (Fig. 4)

Threading the upper thread
Pull the spool pin 13 up to the stop from the sleeve cover.
Bring the thread take-up eye to the upper position by turning the handwheel.
Raise the presser foot.
Place a spool of thread on spool 13.
Thread the upper thread in this sequence. Into the holes 7 and 6 of the thread guide, between the washers 8 of the tension adjuster, then upwards into the eye 4 of the take-up spring, down under the thread take-up hook 3, up through the hole of the thread take-up lever 5, down into the thread guide 2, into the thread guide 1 on the needle bar and insert into the eye needles 9 from the side of the worker.

Threading the bobbin thread
Before threading the bobbin thread, you need to remove the bobbin case with the bobbin from the bobbin, for which it is necessary to turn the handwheel to bring the needle up. Pull out the slide plate, grasp the bobbin case latch lever with two fingers of your left hand, and remove the bobbin case.

Wind the threads onto the bobbin using the bobbin winder. When winding thread onto a bobbin, the handwheel should be idling. To do this, loosen the friction screw 1 (Fig. 8).
Slide the bobbin onto the bobbin spindle 2 so that the spindle spring enters the bobbin slot. Place the spool 1 with thread on the spool pin. Thread the thread from the spool between the tension washers 4, as shown in Fig. 9, and then wind a few turns on the bobbin by hand. Press the winder against the flywheel. Next, wind up by rotating the flywheel using the drive.
When the bobbin is fully wound, the rubber ring of the winder stops contacting the flywheel and winding stops. Before removing the bobbin, the winder must be swiveled to the left of the stop 3.
Thread the wound bobbin into the bobbin case and thread under the tension spring as shown in fig. 10. Leave the free end of the thread 10-15 cm long.
Insert the bobbin case with the threaded bobbin into the hook. In this case, the needle should be in the upper position.
Push the bobbin case with the bobbin onto pin 3 of the bobbin as far as it will go. In this case, the pin 1 of the bobbin case must enter the slot 2 (fig. 11).

To ensure easy running of the machine and prevent wear, all places indicated by arrows should be lubricated with one or two drops of industrial oil I-20A GOST 20799-75.
Machine head lubrication points (fig. 17)
Zigzag lubrication points (fig. 19)
Cleaning and lubricating the shuttle (fig. 20)
Heavy movement of the machine, and sometimes jamming, can occur from contamination of the shuttle stroke. The course is clogged with scraps of thread, fleece, dust.
See also Sewing Machine Lubrication
To clean the shuttle stroke, the needle bar must be in the upper position. Pull out the bobbin case 1, by turning the spring lock towards you, remove the trim ring 2, take out the hook 3. Carefully clean the nest of the hook 4 with a brush-brush from dust, dirt and threads. In this case, it is not allowed to use metal objects for cleaning, so as not to damage the cleanliness of the working surface. The direction for the hook in the travel housing and the winder spindle are also lubricated with 1-2 drops of oil.

The Chaika sewing machine is perhaps the most popular model of a sewing machine for the home, despite the abundance of imported household sewing machines in stores. At one time, I had to buy Chaika for a lot of money, and she seems to sew well, but only sometimes she twists, otherwise everything is safe and sound. Indeed, it is almost impossible to break the Chaika sewing machine. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the components are strong and reliable - everything is in the style of Soviet technology. But here, unfortunately, the line loops
almost “from birth”, sometimes gaps appear in the line, especially on the zigzag and knocks when sewing like a machine gun.
The manufacturer encloses instructions for the Chaika sewing machine in the kit, where it is detailed how to use the machine and perform various operations, there is even an electric motor circuit, a pedal device, but not a word on how to set up and perform at least minor repairs of the Chaika sewing machine. We will try to fill this gap in the instructions and give several recommendations on how to repair the Chaika sewing machine with our own hands.

The main malfunction in machines of the "Seagull" type, performing a zigzag stitch and, on its basis, several types of finishing stitches are gaps, looping of the lower and upper thread, as well as its breakage at the top and bottom. Sewing machine Chaika, Chaika M, Chaika 142, Chaika 132, Chaika 134, Chaika 132 m, Chaika 142 M, Chaika 143, Chaika 3, Chaika 2 and Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1; Malva and others - all these machines have the same device and instructions for use and adjustment, so their repair is almost the same, with the exception of copier repair (depending on the machine model) and setting the shuttle settings. But since our task is to learn how to customize only a line, we will omit the repair of many nodes. In addition, such repairs cannot be done with your own hands, without professional knowledge and experience at home.

Before proceeding with the repair and adjustment of the Chaika sewing machine on your own, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, and lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws). Detach the foot, remove the needle and stitch plate, and the bobbin cover. Detach the clipper from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the bobbin: bobbin case, locking ring, hook. Now remove dust, dirt, fleece from the machine (especially in the shuttle section) and lubricate all rubbing accessible places with machine oil well. Use a tough small glue brush to clean, and a medical disposable syringe is very convenient to lubricate the sewing machine.

Thread breakage often occurs with sewing machines such as the Seagull. The first reason leading to thread breakage is a bent needle point, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible. Use needles that are in good condition and intended only for household sewing machines, in accordance with See instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk 142
Sewing machine needles must be in perfect condition. The condition of the needle can be determined by running your fingernail along the tip of the needle or using a magnifying glass. Often it is the needle that causes gaps in stitches, needle breakage and other stitching defects.
Select the needle number according to the thickness of the fabric and thread. Do not use home sewing machine needles with a round bulb. Household sewing machine needles have a saw cut on the flask.
For sewing various fabrics and materials, use the appropriate type of needle, for example, for sewing leather, the needle has a four-sided point, which makes it easier to pierce the material and contributes to the formation of a loop on the needle when it is gripped by the nose of the shuttle.

Thread breakage can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, then the thread will periodically break. When sewing a straight stitch, the needle should be in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly spaced from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the distance L should be the same with R.
Longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle slot is carried out by displacing the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker, in the upper part of the machine (turn the handwheel on the zigzag line and you will see this attachment). Loosen these screws and set the needle on a straight stitch exactly in the center (by moving the needle bar frame). Then check the position of the needle at the left and right injection. The entry of the needle (at the maximum zigzag width), on the right and left, will be evenly spaced from the center. If the needle touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag, contact the master, this case is already for him.

The transverse position of the needle is adjusted by a rod, fixed on the plate with two screws, and a plate that presses the needle bar frame to the rod of the bracket.
The adjustment of this unit is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously get lost during operation, especially with electric sewing machines. Therefore, if you decide to repair the Chaika sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust this position of the needle, since the forward displacement of the needle is the cause of its breakage, and the displacement towards the seamstress is the cause of omissions.
Adjusting the crosswise position of the needle requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the master, since the wrong position of the needle can be the cause of misalignment of other nodes, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.
Pay attention to the condition of the stitch plate. Hole e must not be “broken” or jagged. It is better to replace such a plate.

Simple zigzag sewing machine PMZ. Version with electric drive. From the previous modification (sewing machine "Chaika" -132M class.) it has two design improvements.

1. If in the previous design, the needle bar frame is connected to the pin bracket (see fig. 68, p. 9), which randomly gets lost and incapacitates the machine, then in this machine the frame 7 needle bar (see fig. 78) connects to the frame 1 of the presser foot bar by two points: the swing axis 5 and rod 11 fastening the needle bar frame.

At the bottom end of the frame 7 the needle bar has an oblong hole for the rod 11, it allows you to move the needle bar frame to the right (left) by the width of the zigzag.

The block of two frames is fixed to the machine body with two screws 15 and 2... Moreover, the screw 15 Is the swing axis of the frame unit, and the screws 2 and 14 are adjusting for adjusting the position of the needle in the transverse direction.

Although the design of this machine excludes an arbitrary displacement of the needle in the transverse plane, in fact, such displacement occurs due to the unsuccessful design of the lower connection of both frames:

behind the lock washer - spacer washer - gap No. 1;

spacer washer - frame - gap No. 2;

frame - spacer washer - gap No. 3;

spacer washer - stop ring - gap No. 4.

Can a four-gap device provide extra precision in needle-to-hook positioning? And at the same time, this device should ensure the ease of movement of the needle bar frame.

There is an obvious contradiction between the design calculation and reality: the device of the hinge with four gaps cannot ensure the inviolability of the needle in the transverse plane. And the gap between the needle and the nose of the shuttle in the transverse plane is set to 0.1 mm, and when sewing nylon - 0.05 mm. An ideal solution to this problem could be if the bottom of the needle bar frame fluctuated in the sleeve cut as it is done in Lada (Czechoslovakia) and Veritas (Germany) machines.

In this machine, when sewing thick materials, the needle often gets knocked off, the formula is broken B = G - norm (see fig. 67); if C> D - the needle breaks if In d) loosen the screw 2 (see fig. 78) and, lightly tapping on the upper part of the knot in front, bring the needle to the middle, i.e. B = G... Then tighten the screw tightly 2... Here the frame unit rotates on a screw (axis) 15.

If the needle is displaced to the front wall of the slot, also loosen the screw 2 and, lightly tapping with a hammer on the upper part of the block from behind, bring the needle out to the middle of the slot. Tighten the screw tightly 2... These operations are very simple and fast, they are available to everyone. The same adjustment can be done with a screw 14.

In case of backlash in the transverse direction (relative to the longitudinal axis of the platform), loosen the two screws of the stop ring 10 (see fig. 78) and push it towards the frame. Tighten both screws. Turn the handwheel to check if the needle zigzag when it is turned on. If not, let go of the ring weaker.

All hook clearances are exactly the same as the sewing machine "Chaika" -132M class PMZ, Other (possible) malfunctions, their elimination cm.in parts 1, 2 and 3.

Another design improvement is the replacement of the plastic base of the upper thread tension regulator with a metal one. It has become more reliable and simpler in design, but it still belongs to the type of complex regulators and consists of 14 parts. Assemble the regulator in the sequence in which it is shown in picture 1, and disassemble as follows:

1) loosen the locking screw in the frontal cavity in the sleeve on the left;

3) pry off the decorative plug with a sharp needle 14 and remove it;

4) unscrew the tightening screw 13.

Further disassembly is free. The locking screw is loosened last. 1, the axis is retrieved 4 and compensation spring 3.

The assembly is carried out in the reverse order strictly according to picture 1... The following malfunctions occur in the mechanism of the zigzag width control knob (rice. 82):

Rice. 82. Zigzag width control knob
(car "Chaika" -134 class, etc.):

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Before us is a sewing machine of the late 20th century, produced by the Podolsk Plant named after Kalinin. The car, like the previous models, is completely made of metal. The automatic equipment consisted of 5 copiers and remained with the same quantity. True, almost 100% of machine owners sewed the program selection knobs in one position.

Upper thread tension dial (Thermometer) is made in a metal case, the compensation spring works from right to left, which is not particularly successful, see fig. 2

After removing the top cover, we see that all the parts of the car are the same as in class 142, see fig. 3:

1. Knob for sewing program selection;
2. Knob for setting the stitch width;
3. Needle bar position switch (left, center, right);
4. The body of the automation mechanism;
5. Copier removers;
6. Copiers

In fig. 4 you can see the main thing difference from class 142 cars, namely the mechanism of the needle bar and the presser bar.
So, in order to correctly adjust the position of the needle bar, you first need to make the correct installation withpresser bar... Loosen screws 1 and 2 and set the foot relative to the slot in the needle hole and tighten the screws.
By loosening screw 3, we set the position of the needle bar relative to sewing, do not forget that the point of the needle No. 100 should enter exactly in the center of the hole.
Adjusting washer remove the needle bar play, for this we release two screws 7, press the washer against the frame and tighten the screws. Screws 4 and 5 are used to fix and adjust the position of the foot height and the position of the needle bar, respectively.
We fix the position of the thermometer with the screw 6. This screw must be tightened periodically. Thread take-up mechanism the same as in a class 142 car.

Figure 5 shows correct installation of the toothed sector and the shuttle gear... The third tooth of the gear must enter between the first and second teeth of the sector.

The bottom of the machine has not undergone any changes (see Fig. 6):

1. Guide;
2. Cam (lifting eccentric);
3. Regulator of stitch length;
4. Lower end of the drawbar;
5. Crank;
6. Screw for fastening the crank (by loosening it, adjust the stroke);
7. Screw for fastening the back handle;
8. Screw (advance setting);
9. The lower end of the plug;
10. Crank;
11. Fastening bolt (setting the position of the feed dog teeth).

Figure 7 shows the bottom of the machine on the left:
1. Knob for selecting the lifting height of the conveyor teeth;
2. The fastening screw, with its help, the height of the teeth is adjusted;
3. Guide;
4. Screws for fastening the lift eccentric;
5. Lift eccentric;
6. Shaft of fabric conveyor;
7. Shuttle device;
8. Screw fixing the clamping bracket;
9. Toothed sector;
10. Shuttle gear;
11. Adjusting washer.

Adjustment of all units and parts, travel and advancement, elimination of backlash in units is exactly the same as for machines of cl. 142, therefore, after watching the film, it will not be difficult for you to disassemble, assemble and adjust the sewing machine.

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