DIY sewing machine repair seagull 134a

The Seagull sewing machine is perhaps the most popular model of a home sewing machine, despite the abundance of imported household sewing machines in stores. At one time, I had to buy it for a lot of money, and it seemed like she sewed well recently, only something began to wind. It's almost impossible for her to break. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the components are strong and reliable - everything is in the style of Soviet technology. But, unfortunately, it winds practically “from birth” and knocks when sewing, like a machine gun.

Many other “charms” were provided by the plant along with instructions for device and use, where almost 5 pages describe how the pedal is arranged, the electrical circuit of the engine is given, but not a word about how to set up and repair Seagull sewing machine.

The Seagull sewing machine has many models that differ little from each other: Seagull 2; 3; 142m; 132; 134; 143 and others. Sewing machines of the Podolsk plant: Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1 others, as well as the Malva sewing machine, have approximately the same device as Chaika. Therefore, the instructions for one of these machines are quite suitable for any model of a full zigzag sewing machine, such as Chaika.

Setting up, adjusting and repairing Seagull sewing machines is almost the same for all models mentioned above, with the exception of copier repair (depending on the machine model) and setting some shuttle parameters. But since our task is to learn how to tune only the line, we will omit the repair of many nodes in this article. In addition, such repairs cannot be done with your own hands, without professional knowledge and experience, and even at home.

Before proceeding with the repair and adjustment of the Chaika sewing machine with your own hands, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws on top). Detach the presser foot, remove the needle and needle plate, bobbin cover. Detach the machine from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the shuttle: bobbin case, locking ring, shuttle. Now remove dust, dirt, lint from the machine (especially in the shuttle compartment) and lubricate all rubbing, accessible places well with machine oil. You can look at the places that need to be lubricated in the instructions for the machine or lubricate all available rubbing metal parts and assemblies.

For lubrication, it is very convenient to use a medical disposable syringe, just choose the size so that it fits in the neck of the oil container. The needle must be removed when filling with oil.

The main malfunction of machines of the “Seagull” type that perform a zigzag stitch and several types of finishing stitches based on it are skips, looping of the lower and upper threads, as well as thread breaks from above and below. It is these faults and how to fix them that we will consider in this article.

Thread breakage most often occurs with Chaika-type sewing machines. The first reason leading to thread breakage is the bent point of a blunt needle, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible.
Use serviceable needles and designed for Chaika sewing machines, in accordance with the instructions.

A broken thread can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, then the thread will break periodically.When performing a straight stitch, the needle should be located in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly removed from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the needle position L should be the same with R.

Longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle gap is carried out by shifting the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker arm, in the upper part of the machine (turn the flywheel on the zigzag line and you will see this mount).
Loosen these screws and set (on a straight stitch) the needle exactly in the center (offsetting the needle bar frame). After that, check the position of the needle with its left and right injection. I hope that the entry of the needle (at the maximum width of the zigzag), on the right and on the left, will be evenly removed from the center. If it touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag, contact the master, this case is already for him.

The transverse position of the needle is regulated by a rod mounted on a plate with two screws, and a plate pressing the needle bar frame to the bracket rod. Adjusting this assembly is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously go astray during operation, especially the Chaika electric sewing machine. Therefore, if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust the position of the needle, since moving the needle forward is the cause of its breakdown, and moving away from the seamstress is the cause of skips.

Adjusting the needle position requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the wizard, as it can cause other components to fail, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.

It can be added that when using a curved needle, notches may form on the nose of the shuttle, which “unwind” the thread and break. The nose of the shuttle should be perfectly smooth and sharp, without roughness. Its condition can be determined by running a fingernail along the edge of the spout or using a magnifying glass. The pressure plate tightening screw must not be serrated, the latch handle must be clearly fixed and its surface must be clean and smooth. The shuttle itself must also be perfectly clean, without nicks and rust spots.

When sewing rough fabrics, sometimes the needle moves up along with the needle bar. There are gaps in the stitch. In this photo, the arrows indicate where the needle bar fastening screw and the upper thread tensioner fastening screw are located.

Incorrect position of the hook of Chaika sewing machines leads to thread breakage and the appearance of other stitching defects, including gaps. Passes usually appear due to the wrong position of the shuttle at the moment of meeting with the needle - the nose of the shuttle does not capture the loop formed, passes by and a gap is formed. Many other factors can be the reason.

In order to correctly set the position of the meeting of the nose of the shuttle and the needle, it is necessary to adjust the position of the shuttle. You can loosen the two bolts that secure it and gently, using a powerful screwdriver, move or move away the move along with the shuttle in relation to the needle. The shuttle travel rotates on an axle rather than moving back and forth. This is a very important point. No need to pull it out with a nail puller or hammer it in with a hammer, it easily turns on its axis. It is difficult for an inexperienced person to immediately understand what is at stake, but it is also very difficult to explain in more detail. Everything that can be added, carefully understand before you twist something, and even more so unscrew it. There should be no remaining parts after repair.

At the time of the meeting of the nose of the shuttle and the blade of the needle, the following parameters must be observed: the gap between the nose and the blade is approximately 0.15 mm; when the needle leaves the lower position to a height of 1.8 - 2.0 mm, the nose should approach it above the eye of the needle by 1 mm, at least, but not more than 3 mm.
By the way, a very important point is the lifting of the needle from the lower position (1.8 - 2.0 mm).This parameter affects the formation of the needle loop and should be given special attention. In order for the nose to grab the thread from the needle, it is necessary that a loop is formed, where it passes, hooking it. That is why the needle must first go down and then, having risen a little, already meet the looper nose.

The position of the needle is also regulated by the needle bar, for this there is a screw for attaching it to the sleeve under the front cover (see above).

If you set such parameters for adjusting the shuttle, then sewing machine “Seagull” will work relatively well. But, unfortunately, this repair is not over. There are still many other shuttle settings that are quite complex and necessary for the Chaika sewing machine. It is there that the reasons for the looping of the thread and such a rare phenomenon for sewing machines are hidden - the breakage of the lower thread. The difficulty of presenting this material is that for almost any model of the “Chaika” sewing machine, engineers have provided for their own settings for this unit, which, moreover, requires a lot of experience from the performer. For which they are thanked, at least from sewing machine repairmen. They will not be left without work as long as there are “Chaika” sewing machines.

Sometimes you have to remove the flywheel from the machine. There are only three parts in this knot, but many people cannot assemble it correctly. This is due to the fact that it would be more logical to insert the petals of the friction washer inside the slot of the shaft, which is why they do so. As a result, the machine starts to spin idle.
The petals should not be turned towards the body of the machine (shaft), but towards you. Not only that, they can be supplied in “two options”, choose one in which the limit screw will not interfere with tightening the flywheel mount.

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Podolsk sewing machine
The most reliable and easy-to-use sewing machine, as well as the Chaika sewing machine “originally” from the USSR, but unlike the Chaika, it hardly breaks and is capable of sewing any thick and coarse fabrics, including leather.

Do-it-yourself sewing machine repair
The looping of the thread in the line is perhaps the main difference between zigzag sewing machines, such as Chaika, Podolskaya of all models, as well as a characteristic knock at work. In short, looping in the line occurs due to uneven thread tension along its path: a broken compensation spring, a rusty sole of the foot, the shuttle stroke is incorrectly set, etc.

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In the article on repairing the Chaika sewing machine, not all recommendations are given on how to set up a sewing machine. Many issues are discussed in other articles on the site. For example, in this article you will learn what is important for a sewing machine, including seagulls, sewing threads and needles.

We sew knitwear without gaps and looping
Many who have tried to sew knitwear on a regular sewing machine have noticed that the machine often refuses to make a beautiful and even stitch. Gaps form in the knitted line, the lower thread winds, and sometimes breaks. Why is this happening and how can it be fixed?

Decorative stitching on a difficult area
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In the last century, the Seagull sewing machine was very common.It was in short supply, at some times the Chaika sewing machine could only be bought by appointment during the year. This machine can sew light to medium fabrics. Sewing on the Seagull sewing machine is possible with a straight line and a zigzag. The large flywheel, as in most modern sewing machines, rotates on itself. Seagulls often broke before, and now they break even more often. However, it is not at all necessary to throw an old, obsolete sewing machine into a landfill. You can try to repair it yourself. If nothing works out, then you have nothing to lose.

There are several common malfunctions of the Seagull sewing machine:

The sewing machine is skipping stitches.

The needle keeps breaking.

Poor quality line.

1. Skipped stitches appear for several reasons. It is necessary to check whether the needle is bent. You need to pay attention to this as soon as you sit down to sew. If all the needle is even, then watch how it passes through the hole in the needle plate. The needle should pass through the middle of this hole in the plate. If this does not happen, then you need to open the top cover.

To do this, unscrew the 2 screws on the cover. On the left side is the needle bar - this is a long vertical pin on which the needle is attached. The whole structure is mounted on a frame. There the needle bar goes up and down, there is a small ring with 2 screws. This ring may be loose. Then you need to slightly loosen the screws and move the ring close. Next, lower the needle bar, or raise it with a clamp. There is a screw on the clamp. After loosening the screw a little, set the needle bar right in the middle of the notch. This small notch is on the needle bar. If you installed it once as it should, then you can not touch it anymore, just tighten the screws tighter. In general, skips are most often due to a bent needle.

2. Breaks the needle. The needle may break due to how accurately the cone of the carriage passes the needle. Turn the car on its side, and below you will see plywood - remove it. On the left side you will see a shuttle device - this is the place where the carriage with the bobbin case and the bobbin is installed. The carriage is fixed with a flat latch. Remove the latch and leave the carriage in place. Turn the handwheel towards you and see how the carriage approaches the needle. The sharp tip of the carriage should be slightly above the eye of the needle from 2x to 4mm. There is a zigzag stitch on the sewing machine - because of this, we install it that way. To prevent skipped stitches and the needle from breaking, you need the tip of the carriage to pass next to the needle. Next to the carriage assembly on the axis of its rotation on the left are 2 white bolts. Unscrew them and move the carriage assembly slightly towards the needle. It just needs to be done very carefully. If you move or move it a little more, it will break the needle, and otherwise it will not grab the thread.

Although the Soviet-made Chaika sewing machine is famous for its reliability, yet every owner of such rare equipment will certainly have to understand, at least in general terms, that Chaika repair is included. These sewing machines sew perfectly, but subject to regular maintenance. Moreover, having understood the device and the principle of operation, the repair of Seagull sewing machines will not be very difficult.

The main malfunction of Seagull sewing machines is skipped stitches, looping of the lower or upper thread, its breakage. However, the repair of Chaika is best to start not with the problem itself, but with a routine inspection, cleaning and lubrication.

1. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover by unscrewing the two fixing screws.
2. Next, you need to disconnect the foot, remove the needle, needle plate, and also the cover of the shuttle mechanism.
3. The machine itself must be disconnected from the wooden stand, disassemble the shuttle.
4. And now you can clean the machine from dust, dirt, tow.
5. After that, using a conventional medical syringe, you can fill all the rubbing parts with machine oil and lubricate all accessible places well.

After carrying out all the preparatory measures (in principle, this is nothing more than setting up a sewing machine), you can proceed directly to the repair: identifying the causes of the breakdown and eliminating them.

Thread breakage in sewing machines Seagull can occur due to the bent point of a blunt needle. It is easy to see this under a magnifying glass.

When operating Chaika sewing machines, it is advisable to use serviceable needles and designed specifically for this model in accordance with the instructions.

Also, the thread may break due to the fact that the needle may touch it when entering the needle hole. You can install it in the center of the needle gap by moving the needle bar frame, which is fixed with screws on the rocker. This will be the repair.

For example, if during work the transverse position of the needle spontaneously went astray (which happens quite often in Chaika sewing machines), then it would most likely be better for the master to carry out the repair. This failure may be the cause of misalignment of some other nodes.

It will not be superfluous to examine the pedal for the sewing machine for breakdowns.

There are also many other settings that are quite difficult to repair on your own. This is, for example, the repair of the shuttle. It is there that the causes of looping can be hidden.

For almost every model of the Chaika sewing machine, engineers have developed their own features for setting up and repairing this unit. Therefore, it is better to entrust such delicate work to a sewing equipment repair specialist.

The Seagull sewing machine manual can be used as a manual for any sewing machine models that perform a seagull zigzag stitch: Seagull 2, Seagull 3, Seagull 134.

This instruction for the Chaika sewing machine is also suitable for Malva and Podolsk brand sewing machines: Podolsk 142, Podolsk 142M, etc.

This instruction manual for the Chaika sewing machine is given in abbreviated form, based on the manufacturer's instructions.
The operation and device of the Podolsk and Chaika sewing machine are almost the same, therefore this instruction manual is suitable for all models of these sewing machines, including the Malva sewing machine. They have the same device and differ only in the presence of additional types of zigzag stitches. Some Chaika and Podolskaya models have an additional device (copier) for this and, accordingly, a lever for switching its operating modes. The shuttle device, threading and adjustment parameters of the units and mechanisms of these sewing machines are almost the same, with the exception of setting some settings for the shuttle operation parameters (depending on the model of the machine).
For details on how to set up and perform minor repairs on sewing machines such as Chaika, see other articles in the section on repairing sewing machines.

1. Shuttle device. 2. Platform. 3. Needle plate. 4. Presser foot. 5. Needle bar. i6. Presser foot lifter. 7. Upper thread tension regulator. 8. Top and front covers. 9. Thread take-up lever. 10. Tension washers. 11. Index of the type of lines. 12. Zigzag width indicator. 13. Rod for the coil. 14. Winder. 15. Flywheel. 16. Needle shift lever. 17. Zigzag handle. 18. Reverse feed lever. 19. Stitch length knob. 20. Comb lift control knob. 21. Engine material. 22. Picture panel. 23. Handle for switching copier unit.

Fine grades of silk, batiste - needle number 70, thread - 65
Sheet, calico, chintz, satin, silk, linen fabrics - needle No. 80, thread - 65
Heavy cotton fabrics, coarse calico, flannel, thin woolen fabrics, heavy silks - needle number 90
Woolen suits - No. 100 needles
Thick woolen coat fabrics, broadcloth - needle no. 110

Needle 1 must be installed in needle holder 2 (with the needle bar in the upper position) up to the stop and secured with screw 3.
The flat side of the flask 4 (flat) on the needle should be turned in the opposite direction from the working person (Fig. 4)

Top threading
Pull the spool pin 13 up to the stop out of the sleeve cover.
Set the thread take-up eye to the highest position by turning the handwheel.
Raise the presser foot.
Install a spool of thread on the rod 13.
You need to thread the upper thread in this sequence. Into the holes 7 and 6 of the leaf thread guide, between the washers 8 of the tension regulator, then up into the eye 4 of the thread take-up spring, down under the thread take-up hook 3, up through the hole of the thread take-up lever 5, down into the wire thread guide 2, into the thread guide 1 on the needle bar and put into the eye needle 9 from the side of the worker.

Threading the lower thread
Before threading the lower thread, you need to pull out the bobbin case with the bobbin from the bobbin, for which you need to turn the handwheel to put the needle in the upper position. Pull out the sliding plate, grab the bobbin case latch lever with two fingers of your left hand and remove the bobbin case.

Wind the thread onto the bobbin using a winder. When winding the thread on the bobbin, the handwheel of the machine should rotate idly. To do this, release the friction screw 1 (Fig. 8).
Put the bobbin on the winder spindle 2 so that the spindle spring enters the bobbin slot. Spool 1 with threads put on the spool pin. Thread from the spool between the tension washers 4, as shown in fig. 9, and then wind a few turns on the bobbin by hand. Pull the winder up to the flywheel. Further winding by rotating the flywheel with the help of the drive.
After the bobbin is fully wound, the winder rubber ring will no longer come into contact with the handwheel, and winding will stop. Before removing the bobbin, the winder must be moved to the left from stop 3.
Thread the wound bobbin into the bobbin case and thread under the tension spring as shown in Fig. 10. Leave the free end of the thread 10-15 cm long.
Insert the bobbin case with the bobbin threaded into the hook. In this case, the needle should be in the up position.
Put the bobbin case with the bobbin on the rod 3 of the hook until it stops. In this case, the finger 1 of the bobbin case should enter the slot 2 (Fig. 11).

To ensure easy running of the machine and prevent wear, all places indicated by arrows should be lubricated with one or two drops of industrial oil I-20A GOST 20799-75.
Machine head lubrication points (Fig. 17)
Lubrication points for the zigzag mechanism (Fig. 19)
Cleaning and lubricating the hook (Fig. 20)
The heavy running of the machine, and sometimes jamming, can occur from contamination of the shuttle. The course is clogged with scraps of thread, tows of fabric, dust.
See also Sewing machine lubrication
To clean the shuttle stroke, the needle bar must be placed in the upper position. Pull out the bobbin case 1, remove the trim ring 2 by turning the spring lock towards you, remove the hook 3. Carefully clean the hook socket 4 with a brush-brush from dust, dirt, threads. In this case, it is not allowed to use metal objects for cleaning, so as not to damage the cleanliness of the working surface. The direction for the shuttle in the stroke housing and the winder spindle are also lubricated with 1-2 drops of oil.

The Chaika sewing machine is perhaps the most popular model of a sewing machine for the home, despite the abundance of imported household sewing machines in stores. At one time, I had to buy Chaika for a lot of money, and she seems to sew well, only sometimes she winds, otherwise everything is whole and unharmed. Indeed, it is almost impossible to break the Seagull sewing machine. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the components are strong and reliable - everything is in the style of Soviet technology. But, unfortunately, the line winds
practically “from birth”, gaps sometimes appear in the line, especially on a zigzag and knocks when sewing, like a machine gun.
The manufacturer includes instructions for the Chaika sewing machine in the kit, which details how to use the machine and perform various operations, there is even an electrical circuit of the electric motor, a pedal device, but there is not a word about how to set up and perform at least minor repairs to the Chaika sewing machine. We will try to fill this gap in the instructions and give some recommendations on how to repair the Chaika sewing machine with your own hands.

The main malfunction of machines of the “Seagull” type that perform a zigzag stitch and several types of finishing stitches based on it are skips, looping of the lower and upper threads, as well as breaking it from above and below. Sewing machine Chaika, Chaika M, Chaika 142, Chaika 132, Chaika 134, Chaika 132 m, Chaika 142 M, Chaika 143, Chaika 3, Chaika 2 and Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1; Malva and others - all these machines have the same device and instructions for use and setup, so their repair is almost the same, with the exception of repairing the copier (depending on the model of the machine) and setting the shuttle settings. But since our task is to learn how to tune only the line, we will omit the repair of many nodes. In addition, such repairs cannot be done with your own hands, without professional knowledge and experience at home.

Before proceeding with the repair and adjustment of the Chaika sewing machine on your own, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, and lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws). Detach the presser foot, remove the needle and needle plate, bobbin cover. Detach the machine from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the shuttle: bobbin case, locking ring, shuttle. Now remove dust, dirt, lint from the machine (especially in the shuttle compartment) and lubricate all rubbing, accessible places well with machine oil. For cleaning, use a hard small brush for glue, and it is very convenient to use a medical disposable syringe to lubricate the sewing machine.

Thread breakage often occurs with Seagull-type sewing machines. The first reason leading to thread breakage is a bent needle point, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible. Use serviceable needles and designed only for household sewing machines, in accordance with See instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk 142
Sewing machine needles must be in perfect condition. The condition of the needle can be determined by running a fingernail along the tip of the needle or using a magnifying glass. Often it is the needle that causes gaps in stitches, needle breakage and other stitching defects.
Choose the number of the needle depending on the thickness of the fabric and thread. Do not use industrial grade needles with a round head for household sewing machines. Needles for household sewing machines have a cut on the flask.
For sewing various fabrics and materials, use the appropriate type of needle, for example, for sewing leather, the needle has a square point, which makes it easier to pierce the material and contributes to the formation of a loop on the needle when it is caught by the hook nose.

A broken thread can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, then the thread will break periodically. When performing a straight stitch, the needle should be located in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly removed from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the distance L should be the same with R.
The longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle gap is carried out by shifting the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker arm, in the upper part of the machine (turn the flywheel on the zigzag line and you will see this mount). Loosen these screws and set the needle exactly in the center on a straight stitch (offsetting the needle bar frame). Then check the position of the needle with the left and right injection.The needle entry (at the maximum zigzag width), right and left will be evenly removed from the center. If the needle touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag, contact the master, this case is already for him.

The transverse position of the needle is regulated by a rod fixed to the plate with two screws and a plate pressing the needle bar frame to the bracket rod.
Adjusting this assembly is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously go astray during operation, especially for electric sewing machines. Therefore, if you decide to repair the Chaika sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust this position of the needle, since the displacement of the needle forward is the cause of its breakdown, and the displacement towards the seamstress is the cause of skips.
Adjusting the lateral position of the needle requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the master, since the wrong position of the needle can cause misalignment of other nodes, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.
Pay attention to the condition of the needle plate. Hole e must not be “broken” or notched. It is better to replace such a plate.

Sewing machine simple zigzag PMZ. Electric version. From the previous modification (sewing machine "Chaika" -132M class.) it features two design improvements.

1. If in the previous design, the needle bar frame is connected to the pin bracket (see fig. 68, p. 9), which arbitrarily goes astray and disables the machine, then in this machine the frame 7 needle bar (see fig. 78) is connected to the frame 1 presser bar with two points: the swing axis 5 and rod 11 fixing the frame of the needle bar.

At the bottom of the frame 7 needle bar has an oblong hole for the rod 11, it allows you to move the needle bar frame to the right (left) by the width of the zigzag.

The block of two frames is attached to the machine body with two screws 15 and 2. And the screw 15 is the swing axis of the frame block, and the screws 2 and 14 are adjusting for adjusting the position of the needle in the transverse direction.

Although the design of this machine eliminates arbitrary displacement of the needle in the transverse plane, in fact, such a displacement occurs due to the unsuccessful design of the lower connection of both frames:

behind the lock washer - spacer - clearance No. 1;

distance washer - frame - clearance No. 2;

frame - spacer - clearance No. 3;

distance washer - restrictive ring - clearance No. 4.

Can a device with four gaps provide special accuracy in the relative position of the needle with the hook? And at the same time, this device should ensure the ease of movement of the needle bar frame.

There is a clear contradiction between the constructive calculation and reality: the hinge device with four gaps cannot ensure the inviolability of the needle in the transverse plane. And the gap between the needle and the nose of the shuttle in the transverse plane is set to 0.1 mm, and when sewing nylon - 0.05 mm. The ideal solution to this problem could be if the bottom of the needle bar frame fluctuated in the sleeve cutout as it is done in the Lada (Czechoslovakia), Veritas (Germany) machines.

With this machine, when sewing thick materials, the needle often goes astray, the formula is violated V = D - norm (see fig. 67); if V > G - the needle breaks if C D) loosen the screw 2 (see fig. 78) and, lightly tapping on the upper part of the knot in front, bring the needle to the middle, i.e. V = D. Then tighten the screw firmly 2. Here the frame block rotates on a screw (axis) 15.

If the needle moves to the front wall of the slot, also loosen the screw 2 and, lightly tapping with a hammer on the upper part of the block from behind, bring the needle to the middle of the gap. Tighten the screw 2. These operations are very simple and fast, they are available to everyone. The same adjustment can be made with a screw 14.

In case of backlash formation in the transverse direction (relative to the longitudinal axis of the platform), it is necessary to loosen the two screws of the restrictive ring 10 (see fig. 78) and push it towards the frame. Tighten both screws. Turn the handwheel to check if the needle zigzags when it is turned on. If it doesn't, release the ring looser.

All gaps in the bobbin are exactly the same as those of the sewing machine "Seagull" -132M class. PMZ, Other (possible) malfunctions, their elimination see parts 1, 2 and 3.

Another constructive improvement is the replacement of the plastic base of the upper thread tension regulator with a metal one. It has become more reliable and simpler in design, but still belongs to the type of complex regulators and consists of 14 parts. Assemble the regulator in the order in which it is shown on figure 1, and disassemble it like this:

1) loosen the locking screw in the front cavity in the sleeve on the left;

3) pry off the decorative cap with a sharp needle 14 and extract it;

4) unscrew the screw 13.

Further disassembly is free. The locking screw is loosened last. 1, extract the axis 4 and compensation spring 3.

Assembly is carried out in the reverse order strictly according to figure 1. In the mechanism of the zigzag width control knob, there are the following malfunctions (rice. 82):

Rice. 82. Stitch Width Control Knob
(machine "Seagull" -134 cells, etc.):

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Before us is a sewing machine of the late 20th century, manufactured by the Podolsk Plant named after. Kalinin. The machine, like previous models, is completely made of metal. Automation, as it was from 5 copiers, remained with the same number. True, almost 100% of the owners of the machine sewed in one position of the program selection knob.

Upper thread tension regulator (The thermometer) is made in a metal case, the compensation spring works from right to left, which is not particularly successful, see fig. 2

After removing the top cover, we can see that all parts of the machine are the same as in class 142, see fig. 3:

1. Sewing program selection knob;
2. Stitch width setting knob;
3. Needle bar position switch (left, center, right);
4. The body of the automation mechanism;
5. Copier pullers;
6. Copiers

On fig. 4 you can see the main difference from class 142 cars, namely the mechanism of the needle bar and the presser foot bar.
So, in order to correctly adjust the position of the needle bar, you first need to correctly install withpresser foot bar. We loosen screws 1 and 2 and set the foot relative to the slot of the needle hole and tighten the screws.
After loosening the screw 3, we set the position of the needle bar relative to sewing, do not forget that the tip of the needle No. 100 should enter exactly into the center of the hole.
Adjusting washer remove the needle bar, to do this, release two screws 7, press the washer to the frame and tighten the screws. Screws 4 and 5 are used to fix and adjust the height of the presser foot and the position of the needle bar, respectively.
Screw 6 fix the position of the thermometer. This screw must be tightened periodically. Thread take-up mechanism the same as in the car 142 class.

Figure 5 shows correct installation of the gear sector and the gear of the shuttle. The third gear tooth must fit between the first and second sector teeth.

The bottom of the car has not undergone any changes (see Fig. 6):

1. Guide;
2. Cam (lifting eccentric);
3. Stitch length regulator;
4. The lower end of the drawbar;
5. Crank;
6. Crank fastening screw (by loosening it, the stroke is adjusted);
7. Screw for fastening the reverse gear;
8. Screw (advance setting);
9. Lower end of the fork;
10. Crank;
11. Fastening bolt (setting the position of the teeth of the fabric conveyor).

Figure 7 shows the bottom of the machine on the left:
1. Handle for selecting the height of the lifting of the teeth of the conveyor;
2. Fastening screw, with its help the height of the teeth is adjusted;
3. Guide;
4. Screws for fastening the lifting eccentric;
5. Eccentric lifting;
6. Fabric conveyor shaft;
7.Shuttle device;
8. Clamp clamp screw;
9. Toothed sector;
10. Shuttle gear;
11. Adjusting washer.

Adjustment of all nodes and parts, progress and advancement, elimination of backlash in the nodes is exactly the same as in class machines. 142, therefore, after watching the film, it will not be difficult for you to disassemble, assemble and adjust the sewing machine.

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