Do-it-yourself veritas sewing machine repair

Difficult repair of sewing machines associated with the adjustment of components and mechanisms can only be performed by an experienced craftsman. But such repairs are rarely made, only when a part breaks down at the sewing machine and it needs to be replaced with subsequent adjustment.
Most often, the sewing machine begins to “be capricious” if the rules for its operation specified in the instructions are violated or if simple settings and adjustments are not observed.

The main reason leading to the failure of the sewing machine is sewing fabrics that are not intended for this model of the sewing machine. Hemming the double hem of jeans, changing the zipper in a leather jacket or bag, etc. - this is the main reason for the appearance of gaps in the stitch, thread breakage, needle breakage. Sometimes this can even lead to a breakdown of the sewing machine, followed by complex repairs associated with the replacement of parts.

This article provides basic recommendations on how to set up and perform a simple DIY sewing machine repair.

Oddly enough, but it is the needle that is the most important part of the machine. During its “life” it makes thousands of tissue punctures and is not always light and thin, so sooner or later the point of the needle becomes dull, and the needle itself bends. And if at least once the needle “hits” the metal part of the body of the machine, then the tip will bend in the literal and figurative sense of the word.
However, are we paying attention to it? The needle seems to be intact, so everything is fine. But take a magnifying glass and look at its point, its blade will be bent to one side. How will such a point pierce the fabric? The only way is to break through it.

Now let's see how such a needle will form a stitch.
The thread passing in the eye of the needle will cling to the curved point, and “slow down”, forming an excess of the upper thread in the stitch. Here is the first reason for the appearance of loops in the line. Moreover, a bent point will cause the thread to break periodically, especially in difficult areas for sewing, when the upper thread is stretched to the limit.

It turns out that sometimes the whole repair of a sewing machine consists only in replacing the needle.
Treat the needle with great care. Even if it outwardly does not have blade defects and is not bent, try to change them more often anyway.
There is no need to throw away used needles, as there are situations when needles break one after another, for example, when sewing a leather bag. That's when you remember about the jar of old needles.

Another reason for setting up a sewing machine, especially old manual machines such as Singer or Podolsk, is the incorrect installation of the needle in the needle bar. The blade of the needle (Fig. B) should be on the side of the nose of the shuttle. Remove the needle plate and see if this is the case if the machine suddenly began to loop and tear the thread.

It often happens that a seamstress installs a needle from an industrial sewing machine into a household sewing machine. It is impossible to confuse a household needle with an industrial needle. The household needle has a special saw cut on the flask (Fig. B). But, nevertheless, it is precisely the industrial types of needles that are installed. This absolutely should not be done. Firstly, you violate the gap between the shuttle nose and the needle blade, hence the gaps in the stitches, and secondly, you risk damaging the sewing machine shuttle. Some industrial needles are noticeably longer than household needles and can touch the surface of the hook, scratch it, and even damage the hook.

Figure (A) shows a diagram of how to check the curvature of the needle.Externally, the needle cannot be determined whether it is curved or not, and if you put it on the glass (2), you can easily check the gap (1). Please note that an uneven, bent needle will cause gaps in the stitching and will break sooner or later.

In order for the sewing machine to work “more confidently” with fabrics that are difficult to sew, such as knitwear, stretch, thin natural and artificial leather, denim, needles are produced that are designed for sewing just such fabrics and materials. They have a special point shape and facilitate the passage of the thread in the fabric, almost eliminating gaps in the stitch and looping of the upper thread.
See Home sewing machine needles.

Thread looping in the line, as well as a characteristic knock during their work, is perhaps the main difference between zigzag sewing machines, such as Chaika, Podolskaya 142 of all models. In short, looping in the line occurs due to uneven thread tension along its path: a broken compensation spring, a rusty sole of the foot, the shuttle stroke is incorrectly set, etc. However, it is impossible to set many parameters on your own without experience. Therefore, if you have a poor-quality stitch, pay attention, first of all, to the condition of the needle, the tension of the lower thread in the bobbin case and whether the upper thread tensioner is working correctly. Very often, children love to disassemble and assemble it, and after such a repair, the machine stops working.

It is sometimes necessary to repair the Chaika sewing machine quite often, and this is not due to the breakdown of parts, the parts are just very strong, but with the misalignment of the interaction of some units of the sewing machine, mainly the shuttle.
Almost all of these tips for repairing a Chaika sewing machine can be used for other models of household machines.

First of all, check the nose of the shuttle with a magnifying glass, it should not have nicks, rusty spots. If there are notches, they must be removed with a fine file and polished to a shine, otherwise the thread will constantly linger behind the traces of the file, and loops will appear from below. Just do it carefully so as not to blunt the tip of the nose of the shuttle.

Sometimes the bobbin (the lower thread is wound around it) can be the reason for repairing the sewing machine. Yes, it is repair, since an inexperienced “master” often disassembles and assembles all the nodes, when it is enough to simply replace the old metal bobbin with a new plastic one. If the edges of the metal bobbin are notched, and the bobbin case itself is clogged with thread lint, the lower thread will come out in jerks, and the upper thread in the line will periodically loop from below.

Often the reason for contacting a sewing machine repairman is that the upper thread is poorly adjusted. You tighten it almost completely, but the tension is still too weak. Look, it is possible that lint from the thread has accumulated between the tensioner plates, which prevents the washers from fully compressing. The tensioner mount (Seagull) may have loosened.

But still, most often for sewing machines such as Chaika, the parameters of the shuttle and the needle fail. This is a complex type of repair of a sewing machine, or rather a setting, but for general acquaintance it is desirable to know the main reason due to which all the “trouble” of sewing machines occur.

The most common cause of sewing machine failure is the top thread. Thread breakage, thread winding in the stitch, uneven stitching, gaps, etc. All this often depends on the upper thread tensioner.
It is the fastening of the tension regulator (Seagull) that most often causes its poor performance. The plastic case is pressed under the pressure of the screw, and over time, the tensioner begins to stagger, or even “falls out” of the case.

In this photo, the arrows indicate the fastening of the needle bar and tensioner. When sewing rough fabrics, cross seams in leather, and especially when hemming jeans, the needle bar may move up with the needle.
Slightly loosen the screw and adjust its position, make sure that the blade and needle groove are in the correct position in relation to the hook (not turned left or right).
For details on how to disassemble and assemble the sewing machine tensioner, see the article “Chaika Sewing Machine Tensioner Device”.

Adjusting the shuttle mechanism of sewing machines performing the zigzag stitch Chaika, Podolsk, Veritas and others involves setting the position of the looper nose above the eye of the needle by 1.2 (3) mm at the moment the looper nose approaches the needle. This setting is checked when the sewing machine sews not only the straight stitch, but also the left and right needle points (when sewing the zigzag stitch).
The nose of the hook must simultaneously pass almost close to the blade of the needle - this is the second condition that allows you to form a stitch without gaps.

In this photo, the arrow indicates the fastening of the shuttle shaft. Loosen the screw with a 10 socket wrench, and holding the handwheel with your hand, you can turn the shaft (together with the shuttle), adjusting the position of the hook nose in relation to the needle.

However, this is not all the parameters for adjusting the interaction between the shuttle nose and the needle. There is such a parameter as the timeliness of the approach of the shuttle nose to the needle, namely at the moment the needle starts to rise up. The needle descends to the lowest point, and when it rises by 1.8-2.0 mm, it should meet with the nose of the shuttle, the shuttle removes the loop from the needle and wraps around itself.

But that's not all. For sewing machines that perform a zigzag stitch, there is such a thing as a right and left needle prick. With the left and right injection of the needle, the nose of the shuttle should “confidently” remove the loop formed above the eye of the needle. It should extend just above the eye of the needle, but less than the distance of the eye of the needle itself, approximately 1 mm.

However, such adjustments are most often not required, it is enough just to check with a magnifying glass how the hook interacts with the needle and make sure that repairs, setting up the sewing machine are not needed, and look for another reason. For example, change the threads, thread them correctly, change the needle, clean the bobbin from dust and lint, etc.
To make it easier for you to repair the sewing machine, disassemble the shuttle and study its device. Observe how the stitch is formed when the needle plate is removed. At the same time, check all the shuttle settings described above. See also How the sewing hook works.

The settings above can be used as a guide if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself. As a rule, the machine will work fine with such gaps, but if you need to sew knitted fabrics that are too thin (silk) or, on the contrary, thickened fabrics, more precise adjustment of these parameters is required, which only the master can set.

In many cases, sewing machine repairs will not be needed if the sewing machine is kept clean and lubricated periodically. If a seamstress takes care of her machine, then, therefore, she will protect it from overloading during work, not give it into “other people's” hands, which means that the sewing machine will break down less often.

After a long period of work, clean the shuttle compartment and other accessible places from dust, lint, and oil stains. Periodically, the shuttle itself, the shuttle mechanism, should be cleaned with a hard hair brush. It is advisable to lubricate the machine at least once every six months, and after lubrication, work on it “idle” a little, especially if the machine has not been used for a long time. During operation, the oil heats up slightly and penetrates better into the nodes and friction points.

It is better to draw machine oil into a medical syringe and bury it in small drops in accessible places where there is friction of metal parts.

The big enemy of all mechanisms is dirt and rust, try to keep the car in a dry, cool place.If the machine will not be used for a long time, keep it away from dust, otherwise the dust oil will harden and the machine will turn hard or even jam. This case is discussed in the article Hand sewing machine Podolsk.

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We sew knitwear without gaps and looping
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Which sewing machine to buy
For those who rarely sew simple products or occasionally perform minor repairs to clothes, you can buy an inexpensive economy-class sewing machine. It performs almost all operations, is easy to manage, and most importantly, it will be cheaper for such a machine to build repairs if it is suddenly needed.

Tips for setting up an overlock
Overlock is much more complicated than sewing machines. It is almost impossible to repair an overlock without special knowledge and skills. However, repair or adjustment is not always required, sometimes it is enough just to adjust the thread tension and it will again overcast the fabric with high quality.

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One of the legacies of the past Soviet era is the Veritas sewing machine, made in the GDR (Germany). Like other sewing equipment of the GDR, the models of these machines are quite reliable in operation and durable. If you have such a sewing machine, do not rush to send it to the scrap. Veritas sewing machines (not all models) have a double-fit rotary hook used for industrial machines, and this is already a sign that the Veritas machine can sew quality stitches. The swinging sewing shuttle, of the same type as the Chaika sewing machine, is used only in inexpensive, economy-class models of modern sewing machines. Some models of Veritas sewing machines sometimes have an oscillating sewing hook, but most often, a rotating vertical hook is installed.

Repair of Veritas sewing machines is sometimes complicated by the lack of instructions and spare parts, since spare parts for sewing machine models from 81-91. they just don't release it anymore. In addition, the GDR is long gone. Therefore, there is simply nowhere to buy them, except at the “flea” market. However, the reviews of almost all owners of Veritas sewing machines are only positive. Therefore, if the machine needs repair, try it, maybe you can do a small repair of the Veritas sewing machine with your own hands.

The Veritas sewing machine is a complex zigzag machine, that is, it makes various types of stitches based on a zigzag stitch. The shuttle stroke is the same as that of the 97 class industrial machine and rotates in a vertical plane, which increases the accuracy class of the needle and shuttle, but subject to a good setting of the shuttle assembly.
Transfer from the main shaft to the lower shaft of the sewing machine is carried out using a woven nylon belt. This reduces noise when running at high speeds.
The shuttle is seated on a round axle and secured with screws. If they are loosened, the shuttle can be removed, which means it is convenient to adjust the gap between the needle and the nose of the shuttle.

Sometimes a broken thread gets into the hook, and then it stalls, the machine jams. In this case, the only correct solution is to remove the shuttle from the axis. To do this, tilt the machine on its side and on the right side, loosen the two screws securing the drive gear on which the belt is put on, then remove the fixing plate. It holds the bobbin holder of the shuttle. Now you can rotate the shuttle and loosen the screws that secure it to the axle. After removing the hook, unscrew the three screws securing the lock plate, the nose of which faces the thread hook (hook nose). Then moisten the joint with solvent and try to remove or turn the hook bobbin holder. On his belt there are six slots that need to be cleaned. Slots must always be clean. Assemble the shuttle in reverse order.
Attention! With inept disassembly of the shuttle, you can break its locking ring, which locks the bobbin holder. Be careful!

The sewing machine "Veritas Rubina", in addition to excellent performance, also has a completely modern look, is equipped with an electric drive and can perform many different types of stitches. It is quite functional, that is, it is enough to put a special needle for denim fabrics and it will be possible to hem jeans. And if you put a needle for sewing knitted fabrics, then you can sew knitted clothes with high quality.

Veritas is a good household sewing machine, especially when compared to old models of Soviet sewing machines. And even the old models of Veritas, with a curbstone and a foot drive, can perfectly sew modern knitted fabrics. If you have an instruction manual for a sewing machine, then it says in detail what fabrics can be sewn on Veritas, what sewing needles to use. How to select threads and needles, depending on the thickness of the fabric, threads and much more.

The Veritas sewing machine is equipped with a TUR-2 brand electric drive. This engine is of very good quality. For many years of using these drives in our practice, none of them “burned out”, did not break, and even the brushes did not have to be changed even once. There are several engines that “sat down”, that is, during prolonged operation they lose power and speed, but they work!
The TUR-2 brand electric drive can work for many years without requiring repair or replacement of brushes, even with intensive use of the sewing machine. But, like all electric motors for household sewing machines, it must work intermittently. Approximately half an hour of continuous work and a 10-15 minute break. This is especially important not to forget when processing curtains that have a large footage.
When working for a long time without interruption, a specific smell of burnt electrical wiring appears. This means that it has overheated and needs to be cooled down. Of course, the engine will not break down right away, but over time, due to frequent overheating, it will lose power, and the machine will work more slowly.

Another detail in the Veritas sewing machine that you should pay attention to is the sewing pedal. The sewing pedal often breaks at the Veritas sewing machine. And not so much because of an unsuccessful design, but because of a careless attitude towards it. The body of the pedal is very fragile and the upper part is fixed to a small protrusion of the lower part. Often this protrusion breaks on impact or strong pressure and the pedal “opens”.
This breakdown can be eliminated independently if this limiter is restored. But first you need to disassemble the pedal. In order to disassemble the pedal, it is necessary to pull out the metal rod connecting both parts of the pedal base. This bushing is fixed with a screw in the lower recessed hole, which is usually sealed and therefore it is difficult to see that there is a screw there.
And yet, after self-repair, do not leave the pedal plugged in, because the pedal from the inept adjustment of the rheostat can be constantly on, overheat and cause big trouble.

If the power strap of the Veritas sewing machine is cracked or torn, you can definitely replace it yourself. To do this, loosen the fastening of the electric drive to the sewing machine. Next, slide the drive towards you, the belt tension will loosen, and remove it. Replace belt and tension.
The tension of the belt should be set so that when you press it with your finger, it flexes slightly. If the belt is too tight (tightened), the sewing machine will make more noise, and a tight move will appear.

The toothed belt is installed on almost any household old model of Veritas sewing machines. Thanks to this, the machine is noticeably quieter than Chaika, but there is a drawback. This belt tends to stretch and then the machine can be scrapped, since it is impossible to buy a new such belt.

If you decide to repair your Veritas sewing machine yourself (which is not recommended), you should learn how to adjust the position of the needle, since moving the needle forward is the cause of its breakage, and moving towards the seamstress is the cause of skips. And the wrong position of the needle in relation to the nose of the shuttle is the cause of almost all stitch defects in the sewing line.

First set the gap between the hook and the needle in the plane of rotation of the hook. This gap on the right prick of the zigzag of the Veritas sewing machine should be in the range of 0.1-0.05 mm. You need to adjust by shifting the shuttle along the axis of its attachment. The shuttle is attached with two screws.

The distance between the hook and the needle when it is in its lowest position is determined by the center angle of rotation of the hook. The beginning of the upward movement of the needle should begin no later than the moment when the hook nose and the needle form an angle of 45 degrees, and the straight line from the needle to the hook nose is 7 mm. At a smaller angle, there will be gaps on the right prick of the zigzag, at a larger angle, the upper thread will loop and break.

You need to adjust the gap by turning the shuttle on the axis (shaft) with the screws of its fastening loosened. If there are skipped stitches on knitted fabrics with the right zigzag injection, you can increase the central angle of rotation to 50 °. But at the same time, be sure to check if the line below has deteriorated. If the bottom stitching pattern has begun to be lost, and the upper thread is clearly visible from below, reduce the central angle to a size that improves the bottom stitching.

The moment of the meeting of the nose of the shuttle with the needle on the left prick of the zigzag. The distance between the lower edge of the spout and the upper edge of the eye is zero (pos. a), and on the right prick of the zigzag it is 2 mm. You need to adjust this parameter by moving the needle bar vertically and turning the shuttle.

Sewing machine Veritas Rubina
The opinion of the master about which sewing machine is the best. Details about the used Rubin sewing machine and other old Veritas models.

Foot sewing machine drive repair
The Veritas foot-operated sewing machine can be equipped with an electric drive with a pedal. This is not difficult to do, since the machine has a standard mount for the electric drive. If you need to repair the foot drive, you can use the tips from this article.

Repair of industrial sewing machines
The double-fitting Veritas sewing machine has the same shuttle run as industrial lockstitch machines. But, nevertheless, its device has its own characteristics. However, many of the settings for the interaction of the hook nose and the needle, posted in this article, will also work for the Veritas sewing machine.

Sewing machine lubrication
The lubrication of the sewing machine Veritas, Veritas Rubina and other models of machines from this company requires a lot of attention.Carefully study the instructions, read where you need to lubricate the machine, or independently determine all the rubbing nodes of the sewing machine and regularly lubricate them with a small amount of oil. Too much lubrication can only hurt.

Instructions for the sewing machine Textima 8032
This model of an industrial sewing machine, as well as the Veritas household sewing machine, was produced in the GDR. It is designed for sewing light and suit fabrics. For small sewing workshops and ateliers engaged in tailoring outerwear, the machine is simply irreplaceable. The presser foot advance mechanism together with the rail allows the machine to perform many specific operations, such as fitting the sleeve when sewing into the armhole, etc.

Sewing machine care
Repair of the sewing machine will not be required for many years if the machine is taken care of and taken care of. Periodically, the shuttle compartment should be cleaned of lint and thread residues with a stiff brush for glue and lubricate the machine.

Do you have a sewing machine and love to sew? Then this site is for you. Professional masters will tell you how to carry out minor repairs to a sewing, knitting machine. Experienced technologists will share the secrets of tailoring. Review articles will tell you which sewing or knitting machine to buy, an iron mannequin and many other useful tips you will find on our website.
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VERITAS is a German company that has been producing overlockers and sewing equipment since the late 19th century. It always stays "ahead of the rest" in the implementation of the latest developments and the use of new materials. In 1943, the production of sewing machines with a rotating shuttle began. A few years later, all products began to be equipped with removable paws for various operations. In 1978, a machine appeared in the lineup that did not require lubrication. The mechanisms were automatically treated with a lubricating compound (which was just a sensation for its time!).

Significant milestones:

1980 - a new embroidery function appeared.

1982 - equipping with a Sewing Advisor.

1984 - double illumination of the working area.

1989 - LCD information display.

In the production of German Veritas sewing machines, traditionally, all requirements for assembly quality and operational testing are scrupulously observed.

The brand is known not only in Russia, but also in Europe and America. Universal models, designed with all the fashionable "chips", attract customers in many countries. Sewing machines are durable, do not break, require simple minimal maintenance. At the beginning of 2015, the concern has more than 40 subsidiaries.

I assure you that this “German” will be useful for both a beginner seamstress and a professional dressmaker!

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1) For almost all models (except, if my memory serves me, 8014-35) there is a special needle for coarse fabrics - if you need to hem a coat of the Soviet era (I'm sure you know their “Christmas tree” style), stitch the tucked-up legs of jeans, or sew covers for a car from patches - all this can be done without fear for the serviceability of the car. The main thing - do not forget to put a special needle that comes with each machine.

2) Electric drive - inside any model there is a "motor" TUR-2 - for several decades of operation of the "Veritas", according to official data, a little more than a dozen motors broke down without "outside help" - an impressive figure even against the background of durable Singers and Bernin.

ATTENTION: In order for the machine to serve you faithfully for many years, operate it correctly: after every 30 minutes of operation, take a fifteen-minute pause, let the nodal parts cool down. Don't overheat.

3) All nodal connections are metal. Paradoxically, even such “folk” overlockers as “Podolsk” or “Chaika” have plastic in their construction. Veritas, on the other hand, is an example of true German quality (at least in internal mechanisms, you will learn about the shortcomings of external ones later)

1) A weak pedal - the reason is most often in careless handling (although it is metal, but not “iron”), and not in the fragility of the part: the “wrapper” of the pedal is very fragile, and a sharp press can remove it and expose it.

2) It is not easy to find instructions and components (production was curtailed in 1991) - due to circumstances (the collapse of the GDR, the curtailment of the production of sewing machines, Perestroika), it is almost impossible to find spare parts in good condition, but if you manage to find the necessary part, then you have to redeem together with the machine in which it is built; a similar situation with the instructions - a soft paper book either fades or goes to the trash after two or three years of operation.

Below you will find an electronic version of the current operating manual for the machine.

3) The thread gets into the shuttle, the device jams: this technical flaw is solved by parsing and assembling the shuttle.

Instructions for disassembling the shuttle:

Summary: Compared to modern Asian and European overlockers, the hero of the article definitely loses - there is no that wide functionality, computerization (embroidery of complex patterns using an electronic installation connected according to the “computer-installation-machine” scheme) and international technical support.
But!
The cost of modern overlockers starts from tens and ends with hundreds of thousands of rubles - compared to them, our obsolete "German" costs just a penny (red price - 50 - 100 dollars).

You can buy a Veritas sewing machine:

1) Hand
2) In online stores focused on the sale of equipment "with history"
3) From collectors

Machines of this class have a rather complex design, perform a complex zigzag. The shuttle is vertical. The stitch length is adjustable, its maximum length is 4 mm.
According to feedback from
“The machine of the era before the general obsession with safety. Her thread take-up and the upper thread tension regulator are not covered by a casing, as on all modern ones.

In Soviet times and now they were and are still considered seamstresses.

You can crawl up to any mechanism, clean it, lubricate it - it's very convenient and, in my opinion, this is a plus for this machine. Unlike the Jaguar, where you can’t crawl anywhere and for nothing. ”

Reliable device. All details are made of steel. Sews all fabrics, including leather. The machine uses a Polish-made electric drive. She can do all types of seams - sewing in a lock - zippers, darning, sewing on buttons, edging, double stitching, zigzag, straight seam. The machine performs 25 kinds of operations. Presser feet, bobbins and spare needles are included.

Easily maintained, there is free access to any part in comparison, for example, with the Jaguar. You can easily clean and lubricate any node of a complex unit.