DIY jaguar sewing machine repair

Complex repairs of sewing machines related to the adjustment of units and mechanisms can only be performed by an experienced master. But such repairs are rarely performed, only when a part breaks down at the sewing machine and needs to be replaced with subsequent adjustment.
Most often, the sewing machine starts to “play up” if the rules of its operation, specified in the instructions, are violated or if simple settings and adjustments are not followed.

The main reason leading to a sewing machine malfunction is sewing fabrics that are not intended for this sewing machine model. Sewing a double hem on jeans, replacing a zipper in a leather jacket or bag, etc. - this is the main reason for the appearance of gaps in the stitch, thread breakage, needle breakage. Sometimes this can even lead to a breakdown of the sewing machine, subsequent complex repairs associated with the replacement of parts.

This article provides basic recommendations on how to set up and perform a simple DIY repair of a sewing machine.

Oddly enough, but it is the needle that is the most important part of the machine. During its “life” it makes thousands of punctures in the tissue and is not always light and thin, so sooner or later the needle point becomes dull, and the needle itself bends. And if at least once the needle hits the metal part of the machine body, the tip will bend in the literal and figurative sense of the word.
However, do we pay attention to this? The needle seems to be intact, so everything is fine. But take a magnifying glass and look at its point, its blade will be bent to one side. How would such a point pierce the tissue? Only one way is to break it.

Now let's see how such a needle will form a stitch.
The thread passing through the eye of the needle will catch on the curved point and “slow down”, creating excess upper thread in the stitch. Here is the first reason the loops appear in the stitching. Moreover, the curved tip will cause periodic thread breakage, especially in difficult to sew areas, when the upper thread is extremely stretched.

It turns out that sometimes the whole repair of a sewing machine consists only in replacing the needle.
Treat the needle with great care. Even if it outwardly has no blade defects and is not bent, try to change them more often anyway.
You do not need to throw out the used needles, as there are situations when the needles break one after the other, for example, when sewing a leather bag. Then remember about the jar with old needles.

Another reason for adjusting the sewing machine, especially the old manual machines such as Singer or Podolsk, is the incorrect insertion of the needle into the needle bar. The needle blade (fig. B) should be on the side of the hook nose. Remove the stitch plate and see if this is the case if the machine suddenly begins to twist and break the thread.

It often happens that a seamstress installs a needle from an industrial sewing machine into a household sewing machine. It is impossible to confuse a household needle with an industrial needle. A household needle has a special cut on the flask (Fig. B). But, nevertheless, it is the industrial types of needles that are installed. This absolutely should not be done. Firstly, you break the gap between the hook point and the needle blade, hence the gaps in the stitches, and secondly, you risk damaging the sewing machine hook. Some commercial needles are noticeably longer than household needles and may touch the surface of the hook, scratch it or even damage the hook.

Figure (A) shows a diagram of how to check the curvature of the needle. Externally, the needle cannot be determined whether it is a curve or not, and if you put it on the glass (2), you can easily check the gap (1).Please note that an uneven, bent needle will cause gaps in the stitching and will break sooner or later.

To make the sewing machine “more confident” to work with fabrics that are difficult to sew, such as knitwear, stretch, thin natural and artificial leather, denim, needles are produced for sewing just such fabrics and materials. They have a special point shape and make it easier for the thread to pass through the fabric, almost eliminating skipped stitches and looping of the upper thread.
See Home sewing machine needles.

The thread looping in the stitching, as well as the characteristic knock during their operation, is perhaps the main difference between sewing machines with a zigzag, such as Chaika, Podolskaya 142 of all models. In short, the looping in the stitching occurs due to uneven tension of the thread along its path: broken compensation spring, rusty sole of the foot, incorrectly set shuttle, etc. However, it is impossible to set many parameters yourself without experience. Therefore, if you have a poor quality stitch, pay attention first of all to the condition of the needle, to the tension of the lower thread in the bobbin case, and whether the upper thread tensioner is working properly. Very often, children like to disassemble and assemble it, and after such a repair, the machine stops working.

It is sometimes necessary to repair the sewing machine Chaika quite often, and this is not due to the breakdown of parts, the parts are just very strong, but with the misalignment of the interaction of some units of the sewing machine, mainly the shuttle move.
Almost all of these tips for repairing a sewing machine Chaika can be used for other models of household machines.

First of all, check the nose of the shuttle with a magnifying glass; it should not have any chipping or rusty spots. If there are jags, they must be removed with a small file and polished to a shine, otherwise the thread will constantly linger behind the file marks and loops will appear below. Only this must be done carefully so as not to blunt the tip of the shuttle nose.

Sometimes the bobbin (the bobbin thread is wound around it) can cause repairs to the sewing machine. Yes, it is repair, since an inexperienced "master" often disassembles and assembles all the units, when it is enough to simply replace the old metal bobbin with a new plastic one. If the edges of the metal bobbin are jagged and the bobbin case itself is clogged with thread fleece, the bobbin thread will come out in jerks and the upper thread in the stitching will periodically loop from below.

Often the reason for contacting a sewing machine repairman is that the upper thread is poorly regulated. You are tightening it almost completely, but the tension is still too weak. Look, perhaps, between the tensioner plates, thread fluff has accumulated, which prevents the washers from fully squeezing. The fastening of the tensioner (Chaika) may have loosened.

But still, most often, sewing machines such as the Seagull have a malfunction in the parameters of the shuttle and the needle. This is a complex type of repairing a sewing machine, more precisely setting, but for general information it is advisable to know the main reason due to which all the "troubles" of sewing machines occur.

The most common cause of a sewing machine malfunction is the upper thread. Thread breakage, looping in a stitch, uneven stitching, skips, etc. This often depends on the upper thread tensioner.
It is the fastening of the tension regulator (Seagull) that most often causes its poor performance. The plastic body is pressed under the pressure of the screw and over time the tensioner begins to stagger, or even completely "falls out" of the body.

In this photo, arrows indicate the attachment of the needle bar and tensioner. When sewing rough fabrics, intersecting seams on leather goods, and especially when hemming jeans, the needle bar may move upward with the needle.
Loosen the screw slightly and adjust its position, making sure that the blade and needle groove are in the correct position in relation to the hook (not turning left or right).
For details on how to disassemble and assemble the sewing machine tensioner, see the article "The device of the sewing machine tensioner Chaika".

Adjusting the shuttle mechanism of sewing machines performing zigzag stitching by Chaika, Podolsk, Veritas and others implies setting the position of the looper point above the needle eye by 1.2 (3) mm at the moment the looper point approaches the needle. This parameter is checked when the sewing machine sews not only the straight stitch, but also the left and right needle drop (when sewing the zigzag stitch).
The point of the shuttle must at the same time pass almost closely to the blade of the needle - this is the second condition that allows you to form a stitch without gaps.

In this photo, the arrow indicates the fastening of the shuttle shaft. Loosen the screw with a 10-point wrench, and holding the handwheel by hand, you can turn the shaft (together with the shuttle stroke) by adjusting the position of the hook point in relation to the needle.

However, these are not all of the parameters for adjusting the interaction of the hook nose and the needle. There is such a parameter as the timeliness of the approach of the shuttle nose to the needle, namely at the moment when the needle starts to rise. The needle descends to the lowest point, and when raised by 1.8-2.0 mm, it should meet the nose of the shuttle, the shuttle removes the loop from the needle and wraps around itself.

But that's not all. For sewing machines performing a zigzag stitch, there is such a thing as right and left needle prick. With the left and right prick of the needle, the nose of the shuttle should “confidently” remove the loop formed above the eye of the needle. It should run slightly above the eye of the needle, but less than the distance of the eye of the needle itself, about 1 mm.

However, such adjustments are often not required to be performed, it is enough just to check with a magnifying glass how the shuttle interacts with the needle and make sure that repairs, adjusting the sewing machine are not needed, and look for another reason. For example, change the threads, thread them correctly, change the needle, clean the shuttle from dust and fleece, etc.
To make it easier for you to repair the sewing machine, disassemble the shuttle move and study its device. Observe how the stitch is formed when the stitch plate is removed. At the same time, check all the shuttle settings described above. See also How the sewing hook works.

The settings above can be used as a guide if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself. As a rule, the machine will work normally with such gaps, but if you need to sew knitted fabrics that are too thin (silk) or, on the contrary, thickened fabrics, you need a more accurate adjustment of these parameters, which can only be set by the master.

In many cases, sewing machine repairs will not be necessary as long as the sewing machine is kept clean and lubricated periodically. If a seamstress takes care of her machine, then, therefore, she will protect it from overload during work, not let it into the “wrong” hands, which means that the sewing machine will break less often.

After prolonged operation, clean the bobbin compartment and other accessible places from dust, fleece, oil stains. The shuttle itself and the shuttle mechanism should be periodically cleaned with a stiff hair brush. It is advisable to lubricate the machine at least once every six months, and after lubricating it a little “idle” on it, especially if the machine is not used for a long time. During operation, the oil heats up slightly and penetrates better into units and places of friction.

It is better to draw machine oil into a medical syringe and bury it in small drops in accessible places where there is friction of metal parts.

The big enemy of all mechanisms is dirt and rust, try to keep the car in a cool, dry place. If the machine will not be used for a long time, protect it from dust, otherwise the oil from the dust will harden, and the machine will turn tightly, or even jam. This case is considered in the article Podolsk Manual Sewing Machine.

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Sewing machines do not lose their popularity even in the twenty-first century. Those who were born in the Soviet era remember that from childhood girls were taught to sew various things, from gloves to jackets and coats.

During the Soviet era, most people did their own sewing machine repairs. Even today, those who attend sewing and sewing courses understand that it is better to repair a sewing machine on their own than to take it to a service center:

• Firstly, companies that repair sewing machines demand quite a lot of money from their customers for the services they provide.
• Secondly, the device of even modern machines can be figured out in a matter of hours, one should only carefully approach this issue, and in the future this will allow repairing sewing machines without involving third parties.

Let's take a look at the basic rules for operating sewing machines:

• Sewing equipment should not be placed near batteries or heaters. But at the same time, it should be in a dry room, in which there are no signs of dampness;
• Before starting work, it is necessary to select the necessary materials and tools, needles and threads that will be needed in the process of work;
• Before you start sewing, you need to make sure that the needle and thread guide are in the up position;
• Remember that the sewing machine must be helped at the time of sewing by pulling the fabric towards you;
• After the sewing work is finished, raise the presser foot and pull out the fabric. Next, cut the thread, having found a free end in advance, the length of which will be equal to a maximum of seven, but at least five centimeters.

There are rules and they must be followed. The use of quality materials and additional tools minimizes the occurrence of problems and malfunctions when working with sewing machines.Therefore, the following reasons, which led to malfunctions, are the most common:

1. Broken thread. Breakage can occur both with the upper and lower threads. In the first case, the problem is associated with the selection of low-quality threads or the size of the needle is not correctly selected. In the second case, the problem of a malfunctioning sewing machine may be associated with irregularities, the presence of burrs in the bobbins, and with improper winding of the thread.
2. Problems with advancing the fabric. If such a problem arises, you need to carefully look at the position of the teeth. If they are lifted up or lowered to the bottom, then it is required to bring them to a normal state;
3. Cutting through the fabric. If such a problem arises, in order to fix the machine, we need to reduce the pressure of the presser foot, and check the condition of the needle, it may be too dull.

The above problems are not serious, and are eliminated in a matter of minutes. But there are some types of problems that do not occur very often. Therefore, repairing sewing machines with your own hands, if they occur, will take a lot of time.

The most difficult, most serious breakdown should be considered the appearance of a knock when the sewing machine is running. To solve this problem, it is necessary to pull the flywheel several times, and do this in accordance with the axial direction of the machine.

In order to repair the sewing machine, it must be disassembled. We disassemble the sewing machine in the following sequence:

1. Remove RP (manual drive). It is necessary to remember its location, this will allow you to subsequently assemble a sewing machine in a short period of time;
2. Unscrew the stopper from the nut, which is a classic screw. It is under a manual drive, at the time of assembly it must be screwed back to its original location;
3. Remove flywheel. This must be done carefully, avoiding damage to it, in case of a malfunction of the flywheel after assembling the machine, you need to see if everything is in order with it;
4. Remove the bobbin that looks like a taper. It is located below, after the flywheel. Finding it will not be difficult;
5. Remove the bushing from the shaft base;
6. Slide a tin washer onto the shaft. It is very simple to make such a washer, just cut out the bottom of a tin can.

The washer in 40% of cases is a guarantee of high-quality performance of work using a sewing machine. Sometimes adding it to the typewriter is enough to solve the problem, but this does not always happen. When adjusting the operation of sewing machines, in 60-70% of cases, it is necessary to turn the rail 180 degrees.

The needles are the basic elements that make the sewing machine work. Its further work depends on which needle is chosen. If a defective needle is selected, then the occurrence of the above problems is not a rare case, because the needle is the basis, and without it it is impossible to sew a single thing.

Therefore, when choosing a needle, you must carefully consider its size and thickness. You also need to check the needle numbering if you are doing any complicated sewing work, otherwise it may happen that the thing does not turn out the way you imagined it earlier.

There is another problem in which the wrong choice of a needle can lead to stretching and damage to the tissue. If the needle is too thick and the fabric is thin, then you cannot use the needle with such fabric, otherwise it will break.

Using too thick fabric with a small needle may break the needle. In order to sew something from a compacted fabric, you need to choose a thicker needle, if it is not available at home, then go to the store and purchase it. Before doing this, measure the thickness of the fabric in advance - this will allow you to choose a needle in the store in a shorter time, you will need to tell the seller the thickness of the fabric, and he will independently select the needle of the size you need.

The mechanism of the JAGUAR sewing machine differs from the mechanisms of other models produced at that time. Let's see how it works.

In fig. 1 shows a front view. Here: 1.three-position machine switch - from right to left - off, medium speed, maximum speed; 2. Regulator of stitch length; 3. Knob for stitch selection; 4. Upper thread tension regulator (RNVN); 5. Removable table-pencil case.

Stitch length dial permanently spring-loaded upwards. There is a thread on its rod, along which, when rotating, the adjusting nut moves. When turned clockwise, the nut moves deeper into the machine, thereby reducing the stitch length. In the same way as in Podolsk 2M or Chaika 3, only there is an arbitrary setting due to a disk washer.

Automation handle switches with a click, stitch width changes in the same way with a click, that is, by a certain distance. There is no separate adjuster for this machine.

Let's go further, the side of the car has a socket for connecting to a 220V network. The number 1 marks the hole through which, on some models of machines, we have access to the fastening of the stitch length adjuster lever. see fig. 2. Flywheel does not have a friction mechanism, so it is not particularly convenient to wind the thread on the bobbin on this machine. The pedal jack is also not visible.

The rear view is shown in fig. 3. At the very bottom there is a plate with information about the machine. Almost all the holes are closed with plugs, but for disassembly we will need to unscrew only the ones marked with the number 1. A fastening device is visible on the machine stand, a reel seat is inserted into it.
In work, sometimes you need to flash something narrow. On this car pencil case very easy to remove, just slide it to the left. It also needs to be removed to replace the bobbin, as it blocks access to the bobbin.

Figure 5 shows a close-up of the machine control knobs. The arrow on the shuttle shows the place where the needle hits if the adjustment is incorrect or there is a large backlash in the mechanism for transferring motion from the main shaft to the shuttle.

Damage to the hook by the needle is common in this model. If this happens, then the machine immediately started skipping, tearing the upper thread.

The upper thread clings to the sharp edges of the potholes, which also does not make the machine work well.

If you suddenly have to disassemble such a model, then pay attention to Figure 6.
This is how the hex screwdriver should be inserted into the bolt that secures the stitch length adjustment knob.

Sometimes the fastening mechanism with its bolt looks to the right, then the screw driver must be inserted into the hole from the right side.

Attention! Do not try to disassemble body products until you unscrew the fastening screw and remove the stitch length knob.

Before we begin to disassemble the JAGUAR sewing machine, you must:
- remove the needle;
- remove the foot. Here the foot with the holder is made as a single unit;
- remove the stitch plate by unscrewing the two screws. On this machine, we need a Phillips screwdriver.

1. Mounting screw; 2. Needle plate; 3. Needle holder; 4. Needle clamp screw; 5. Presser foot; 6. Screw for attaching the foot.

Figure 7 shows the same assembly, only with dismantled parts.

If you have the same machine, and not only this one, after you have removed the stitch plate for cleaning, maintenance, etc. - check the tightness fabric conveyor... The fastening screws are indicated by 5 here.

The feed (4) itself must be exactly in the middle of the slot in the throat plate and be strictly parallel to the edges of the hole. If this rule is not observed (fulfilled), then it is necessary to loosen the fastening screws, achieve the above and tighten both screws tightly.
Well, now let's look at the reason for the owner of the mini Jaguar sewing machine for repair. Figure 8 shows a close-up shuttle... Here we see that the surface of the shuttle at the point of entry of the needle and gripping the needle thread with the hook nose very badly damaged. This shuttle needs to be changed. But since the shuttle here has a thinner working surface, it will not work with another model of the machine. I had to restore this shuttle.If possible, large potholes were removed, all edges and edges were rounded and polished, the nose of the shuttle was polished, but until the whole machine was assembled, it was not possible to check the operation of the shuttle.

After unscrewing all (four) screws marked with 1 in fig. 3 you need to lift the front cover and remove the connectors shown in fig. 9. The wires in the blue connector lead to the speed switch and will prevent us from removing the front cover.

In Figure 10, we see two halves of the sewing machine.

Attention. When assembling back the body products, be careful when inserting the bolts (self-tapping screws) into place. They can fall into the case and you will have to disassemble everything again.

Figure 11 shows a close-up thread take-up unit... If you have already dealt with sewing machines, you will notice that the thread take-up unit here is different from other machines. The thread take-up unit itself stands at one end on the axis in the machine body, and its groove is put on the crank axis. At this point, the thread take-up can generate a groove in the axle, then knocking and backlash will appear in operation.

1. Needle bar. 2. Needle bar fixing screw. 3. Connecting arm. 4. Crank 5. Thread take-up 6. Eccentric of the main shaft. 7. Screw securing the connecting arm and needle bar frame. At this point, the needle bar is adjusted in the lateral position.

Machine rack details are shown in Figure 12.

1. Control board
2. Electric drive
3. Worm
4. Mechanism of automation.

Since there was a strong backlash in the shuttle drive in the machine, it was necessary to remove the board with the transformer, it was screwed on with two screws, see fig. 13 to gain access to the parts on the underside of the machine.

Now access to the details is open, first we will consider the details of the table on the left side. see fig. 14.

Bobbin case fastened to the back of the machine. Access is closed with a plug. Shuttle pusher (2) driven by a toothed rack (4)

Shuttle differs from similar ones on modern machines both by the method of fastening, and by the size, and by the motion drive. The rail moves in a straight line to the left - to the right. The position of the rail sets the course of the machine.

1. Shuttle body; 2. Shuttle pusher; 3. Pusher spring; 4. Gear rack; 5.Flip cover of the shuttle compartment; 6. Mounting bracket; 7. Locking ring latches; 8. Conveyor lift shaft.

If we look at the car to the right. then we will see the adjusting unit and the right end of the conveyor lift shaft. To the right, a clip adhered to the engine housing, which flew off the axis of the connecting lever, which transfers movement from the main shaft to the gear shaft.
Attention. Here is the cause of the breakdown. There was a backlash and, accordingly, malfunctions, the clip fell off and a backlash appeared.

By releasing the adjusting screw, you can change the position of the lower end of the connecting lever, respectively, the time of the approach of the hook nose to the needle changes.

In Figure 16, you can see in more detail the structure and operation of parts in the machine rack.

Link arm (1) swings on the axle (2). The stroke is adjusted by changing the position of the lower end of the connecting lever, which transfers the movement to the gear shaft (5). Below the bolt (3) there is a pin on which the end of the conveyor lift shaft (4) rests.

To the right, you can see the propel connecting arm (fork). This fork is responsible for transmitting the movement of the tissue conveyor. In the upper part, it rests on the advance eccentric, then through the stone it is connected to the stitch length regulator link and, at the very bottom, to the crank of the fabric conveyor motor shaft.

To get a better look stitch length adjustment unit remove the limiting bar, look
figure 17

1. Regulator link; 2. Stone; 3. Lever; 4. Mounting screw; 5. Hole of the adjustment knob; 6. Promotional eccentric.
By changing the position of the lever (3), the position of the regulator wings changes.The stone in the curtain begins to move along a different profile and, accordingly, the stitch length changes.

Swinging the lever (1) Figure 16, grasping it at the bottom, it is possible to determine if there is any backlash in the movement transmission system from the main shaft to the shuttle. If there is a decent backlash in this place, then it needs to be eliminated. The fact is that in the upper part this lever has a cylinder that runs in the groove of a large cylinder fixed to the main shaft, see Figures 18 and 19.

These figures show a device for converting the movement of rotation of the main shaft into translational (linear) movements of the gear rack. The worm (1) of the automation mechanism is also very clearly visible, which is fastened with screws (2) (Fig. 18)

In Figure 19, circuit 1 marks the control mechanism for almost all parts of the bottom of the machine. We can clearly see the groove (2) for the connecting lever. The bearing (5) of the main shaft (4) is fastened with a screw (6)

The part highlighted by the outline consists of several parts, made as a whole. Do not touch it unless there is an urgent need.

The left main shaft is shown in Figure 20. Main shaft (1) is adjusted with an adjusting washer (2), which is secured with screws (3). Main shaft eccentric (4) is attached to the main shaft with a pin (5). The screw (6), with the help of which the movement is transmitted to the thread take-up (7), is painted over with paint so that it is not touched again, and also so that it does not self-unscrew. The connecting lever (8) with a crank moves in the thread take-up and on the cylinder; after prolonged operation, a groove may form and a backlash appears, which can be eliminated by bending the thread take-up.

When we looked at the case from the back side, we agreed that we only tighten the screws (1), why? Because on the inside, they can end with a pin or an axis, as in Figure 21, positions 1 and 2. The connecting lever (3) on the axis (2) should not have any play and should be fastened with a clip that flew off and stuck to the engine. Due to this, a backlash appeared, the stroke changed and the needle broke the shuttle. The gear lever (4) on the right side had no backlash. We rise higher - the adjusting unit, everything is fine here too. A little higher is the axis, after fixing this unit with a clip, it also began to function normally. If there is a backlash between the cylinder and the groove in the main shaft cylinder, then you can get rid of it by bending the upper end of the lever towards you.
The advance shaft (5) by means of the crank (6) transfers the movement to the tissue conveyor using the fork (9).
Presser bar (7) this car is black. The thread take-up is very visible (8)

The drive unit of this sewing machine is shown in Figure 22. Here: 1. motor; 2. fastening screws; 3. toothed belt; 4. Gear; 5. Bracket
The installation of this unit on the machine is not difficult, it is just necessary to withstand the condition of ease of movement and the absence of backlash.

Reinstalling the parts that were removed, I think, will not be difficult for you. I put everything in place. The course in this car was selected individually, it turned out to be approximately
2.45 mm. I installed the front cover by connecting the electrical wiring and tried to flash it on this machine, you will see the result in Fig. 23

As it turned out, the elimination of the backlash in the machine parts and the restoration of the shuttle led to a good result.

P.S. What I would like to say in conclusion - this machine is very delicate, of course, even coarse fabrics can be sewn, but not worth it. It is easy to move it to any place, work on it and remove it, it will not take up much space. The low sewing speed and the absence of a pedal are not very depressing. There are exactly the same machines with a power button on the sleeve and a pedal-button. For a good, permanent job, if someone sews at home, it will not work.

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Compact electric simple zigzag sewing machine. The machine body is made of plastic and consists of two halves. They are held together with four screws: at the top are short screws 1 and 3 (rice. 164), bottom long screws 5 and 4... Screw inlet from the back. When assembling, you must first be able to lower the screws into the deep hole 5 and 4which must fit into their threaded, upright bushings, then put the short screws in the same way in the deep holes 1 and 3.

Rice. 164. Appearance (from the back) of the Jaguar sewing machine:

The electric motor of the sewing machine "Jaguar" has the following technical data: D = 36 mm, 1 (without pulley) = 57 mm, power - 15 watts. For comparison: the Polish electric motor TUR-2 has a power of 90 watts. The entire sewing machine is 95% plastic. Even the shuttle is made of two materials - the belt is made of metal, everything else is made of plastic.

The shuttle is right-handed, swinging in a vertical plane.

In order to set the desired distance from the shuttle to the needle when it is in the lowest position (and this distance on the left stab of the zigzag is 1 mm), it is necessary to do the following operations:

1. Remove the electric motor with transformer block.
2. Remove the needle.
3. Swivel the feed dog - feed feed to the upper position and secure.
4. Unscrew the two screws securing the shuttle travel housing.
5. Raise the shuttle travel housing together with the left end of the horizontal drive rack that drives the shuttle pusher.
6. Tilt the left side of the shuttle travel housing slightly upward and carefully disengage the drive rack with the gear. Here, exercise the utmost attention and care so as not to break the plastic toothed rack-drive, which is pivotally connected with a plastic rivet to the vertical plastic lever.
7. Move the toothed rack-drive 1 tooth to the right or to the left (decide in place) in engagement with the cylindrical driven gear of the shuttle pusher.
8. Replace the shuttle travel body, attach it with two screws, place the needle, lower the needle bar to its lowest position and see what is the distance between the hook nose and the needle. If the hook point is to the left of the needle by 5-7 mm or to the right by 3-4 mm, repeat the whole operation from the beginning.

If the nose of the hook is to the left of the needle by 3-4 mm or to the right by 1-2 mm, fine-adjust the position of the hook. Loosen the screw for adjusting the position of the hook relative to the needle and, moving the toothed rack-drive to the right or left, set the distance between the needle and the hook nose to 1 mm.

Place the needle on the right zigzag stitch. Bringing the nose of the shuttle to the needle, achieve their meeting at a distance of 1 mm above the upper edge of the eye of the needle. Adjust by vertical offset of the needle bar. There are difficulties here in that for the inner nut of the adjusting screw of the needle bar level, a hexagonal socket wrench is needed, and the width of the edge is 1 mm. There is nowhere to take it, and it is not attached to the car. Therefore, it is better to replace it with an ordinary headless screw with M4 thread. How can you service the machine with such an unprecedentedly complex adjustment (adjustment)?

The shuttle in diameter and height (axis) corresponds to the shuttle from the "Chaika" machine. But the height of its girdle is 3.5 mm, and the height of the girdle of the "Chaika" machine shuttle is 4.5 mm.

The needle bar is of very low hardness and has a play in the frame, which is well felt by the hand, which is clearly unacceptable for a sewing machine. The needle is close to the back wall in the needle hole.

It is necessary to remove the needle bar and bend it forward by 0.4-0.5 mm. To remove the needle bar, you need to: remove the shuttle travel housing, lower the feed dog - fabric motor and pull the needle bar down. When installing the needle bar, it is necessary to catch the gear connection of the lower plastic shuttle drive rail with the spur gear again.

When sewing, the result is not a straight stitch, but a wavy line.

The block of copying disks is made in one piece with the driven gear (rice. 165).

Rice. 165. Detail - plastic driven gear with a block of copying disks (Jaguar machine):