Do-it-yourself jaguar sewing machine repair

Difficult repair of sewing machines associated with the adjustment of components and mechanisms can only be performed by an experienced craftsman. But such repairs are rarely made, only when a part breaks down at the sewing machine and it needs to be replaced with subsequent adjustment.
Most often, the sewing machine begins to “be capricious” if the rules for its operation specified in the instructions are violated or if simple settings and adjustments are not observed.

The main reason leading to the failure of the sewing machine is sewing fabrics that are not intended for this model of the sewing machine. Hemming the double hem of jeans, changing the zipper in a leather jacket or bag, etc. - this is the main reason for the appearance of gaps in the stitch, thread breakage, needle breakage. Sometimes this can even lead to a breakdown of the sewing machine, followed by complex repairs associated with the replacement of parts.

This article provides basic recommendations on how to set up and perform a simple DIY sewing machine repair.

Oddly enough, but it is the needle that is the most important part of the machine. During its “life” it makes thousands of tissue punctures and is not always light and thin, so sooner or later the point of the needle becomes dull, and the needle itself bends. And if at least once the needle “hits” the metal part of the body of the machine, then the tip will bend in the literal and figurative sense of the word.
However, are we paying attention to it? The needle seems to be intact, so everything is fine. But take a magnifying glass and look at its point, its blade will be bent to one side. How will such a point pierce the fabric? The only way is to break through it.

Now let's see how such a needle will form a stitch.
The thread passing in the eye of the needle will cling to the bent point, and “slow down”, forming an excess of the upper thread in the stitch. Here is the first reason for the appearance of loops in the line. Moreover, a bent point will cause the thread to break periodically, especially in difficult areas for sewing, when the upper thread is stretched to the limit.

It turns out that sometimes the entire repair of a sewing machine consists only in replacing the needle.
Treat the needle with great care. Even if it outwardly does not have blade defects and is not bent, try to change them more often anyway.
There is no need to throw away used needles, as there are situations when needles break one after another, for example, when sewing a leather bag. That's when you remember about the jar of old needles.

Another reason for setting up a sewing machine, especially old manual machines such as Singer or Podolsk, is the incorrect installation of the needle in the needle bar. The blade of the needle (Fig. B) should be on the side of the nose of the shuttle. Remove the needle plate and see if this is the case if the machine suddenly began to loop and tear the thread.

It often happens that a seamstress installs a needle from an industrial sewing machine into a household sewing machine. It is impossible to confuse a household needle with an industrial needle. The household needle has a special saw cut on the flask (Fig. B). But, nevertheless, it is precisely the industrial types of needles that are installed. This absolutely should not be done. Firstly, you violate the gap between the shuttle nose and the needle blade, hence the gaps in the stitches, and secondly, you risk damaging the sewing machine shuttle. Some industrial needles are noticeably longer than household needles and can touch the surface of the hook, scratch it, and even damage the hook.

Figure (A) shows a diagram of how to check the curvature of the needle. Outwardly, the needle cannot be determined whether it is curved or not, and if you put it on the glass (2), you can easily check the gap (1).Please note that an uneven, bent needle will cause gaps in the stitching and will break sooner or later.

In order for the sewing machine to work “more confidently” with fabrics that are difficult to sew, such as knitwear, stretch, thin natural and artificial leather, denim, needles are produced that are designed for sewing just such fabrics and materials. They have a special point shape and facilitate the passage of the thread in the fabric, almost eliminating gaps in the stitch and looping of the upper thread.
See Home sewing machine needles.

Thread looping in the line, as well as a characteristic knock during their work, is perhaps the main difference between zigzag sewing machines, such as Chaika, Podolskaya 142 of all models. In short, looping in the line occurs due to uneven thread tension along its path: a broken compensation spring, a rusty sole of the foot, the shuttle stroke is incorrectly set, etc. However, it is impossible to set many parameters on your own without experience. Therefore, if you have a poor-quality stitch, pay attention, first of all, to the condition of the needle, the tension of the lower thread in the bobbin case and whether the upper thread tensioner is working correctly. Very often, children love to disassemble and assemble it, and after such a repair, the machine stops working.

It is sometimes necessary to repair the Chaika sewing machine quite often, and this is not due to the breakdown of parts, the parts are just very strong, but with the misalignment of the interaction of some units of the sewing machine, mainly the shuttle.
Almost all of these tips for repairing a Chaika sewing machine can be used for other models of household machines.

First of all, check the nose of the shuttle with a magnifying glass, it should not have nicks, rusty spots. If there are notches, they must be removed with a fine file and polished to a shine, otherwise the thread will constantly linger behind the traces of the file, and loops will appear from below. Just do it carefully so as not to blunt the tip of the nose of the shuttle.

Sometimes the bobbin (the bottom thread is wound around it) can be the reason for repairing the sewing machine. Yes, it is repair, since an inexperienced “master” often disassembles and assembles all the nodes, when it is enough to simply replace the old metal bobbin with a new plastic one. If the edges of the metal bobbin are notched, and the bobbin case itself is clogged with thread lint, the lower thread will come out in jerks, and the upper thread in the line will periodically loop from below.

Often the reason for contacting a sewing machine repairman is that the upper thread is poorly regulated. You tighten it almost completely, but the tension is still too weak. Look, perhaps, between the tensioner plates, thread linters have accumulated, which prevent the washers from fully compressing. The tensioner fastening (Seagull) may have loosened.

But still, most often for sewing machines such as Chaika, the parameters of the shuttle and the needle fail. This is a complex type of repair of a sewing machine, or rather a setting, but for general acquaintance it is desirable to know the main reason due to which all the “troubles” of sewing machines occur.

The most common cause of sewing machine failure is the top thread. Thread breakage, thread winding in the stitch, uneven stitching, gaps, etc. All this often depends on the upper thread tensioner.
It is the fastening of the tension regulator (Seagull) that most often causes its poor performance. The plastic case is pressed under the pressure of the screw and over time the tensioner begins to stagger, or even “falls out” of the case.

In this photo, the arrows indicate the fastening of the needle bar and tensioner. When sewing rough fabrics, cross seams in leather, and especially when hemming jeans, the needle bar may move up with the needle.
Slightly loosen the screw and adjust its position, make sure that the blade and needle groove are in the correct position in relation to the hook (not turned left or right).
For details on how to disassemble and assemble the sewing machine tensioner, see the article “Chaika Sewing Machine Tensioner Device”.

Adjusting the shuttle mechanism of sewing machines performing the zigzag stitch Chaika, Podolsk, Veritas and others involves setting the position of the looper nose above the eye of the needle by 1.2 (3) mm at the moment the looper nose approaches the needle. This setting is checked when the sewing machine sews not only the straight stitch, but also the left and right needle points (when sewing the zigzag stitch).
The nose of the hook must simultaneously pass almost close to the blade of the needle - this is the second condition that allows you to form a stitch without gaps.

In this photo, the arrow indicates the fastening of the shuttle shaft. Loosen the screw with a 10 socket wrench, and holding the handwheel with your hand, you can turn the shaft (together with the shuttle), adjusting the position of the hook nose in relation to the needle.

However, this is not all the parameters for adjusting the interaction between the shuttle nose and the needle. There is such a parameter as the timeliness of the approach of the shuttle nose to the needle, namely at the moment the needle starts to rise up. The needle descends to the lowest point, and when it rises by 1.8-2.0 mm, it should meet with the nose of the shuttle, the shuttle removes the loop from the needle and wraps around itself.

But that's not all. For sewing machines that perform a zigzag stitch, there is such a thing as a right and left needle prick. With the left and right injection of the needle, the nose of the shuttle should “confidently” remove the loop formed above the eye of the needle. It should extend just above the eye of the needle, but less than the distance of the eye of the needle itself, approximately 1 mm.

However, such adjustments are most often not required, it is enough just to check with a magnifying glass how the hook interacts with the needle and make sure that repairs, setting up the sewing machine are not needed, and look for another reason. For example, change the threads, thread them correctly, change the needle, clean the bobbin from dust and lint, etc.
To make it easier for you to repair the sewing machine, disassemble the shuttle and study its device. Observe how the stitch is formed with the needle plate removed. At the same time, check all the shuttle settings described above. See also How the sewing hook works.

The settings above can be used as a guide if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself. As a rule, the machine will work fine with such gaps, but if you need to sew knitted fabrics that are too thin (silk) or, on the contrary, thickened fabrics, more precise adjustment of these parameters is required, which only the master can set.

In many cases, sewing machine repairs will not be needed if the sewing machine is kept clean and lubricated periodically. If a seamstress takes care of her machine, then, therefore, she will protect it from overloading during work, not give it into “other people's” hands, which means that the sewing machine will break less often.

After a long period of work, clean the shuttle compartment and other accessible places from dust, lint, and oil stains. Periodically, the shuttle itself, the shuttle mechanism, should be cleaned with a hard hair brush. It is advisable to lubricate the machine at least once every six months, and after lubrication, work on it “idle” a little, especially if the machine has not been used for a long time. During operation, the oil heats up slightly and penetrates better into the nodes and friction points.

It is better to draw machine oil into a medical syringe and bury it in small drops in accessible places where there is friction of metal parts.

The big enemy of all mechanisms is dirt and rust, try to keep the car in a dry, cool place. If the machine will not be used for a long time, keep it away from dust, otherwise the dust oil will harden and the machine will turn hard or even jam. This case is discussed in the article Hand sewing machine Podolsk.

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Sewing machines do not lose their popularity even in the twenty-first century. Those who were born in the Soviet era remember that girls were taught from childhood to sew various things, from gloves to jackets and coats.

During the Soviet era, most people did sewing machine repairs themselves. Even today, those who attend sewing courses understand that it is better to repair a sewing machine on their own than to take it to a service center:

• Firstly, companies that repair sewing machines require quite a lot of money from their customers for the services they provide.
• Secondly, even modern machines can be sorted out in a matter of hours, you just need to carefully approach this issue, and in the future this will allow you to repair sewing machines without involving third parties.

Let's look at the basic rules for operating sewing machines:

• Sewing equipment should not be located near batteries and heaters. But at the same time, it should be in a dry room, in which there are no signs of dampness;
• Before starting work, it is necessary to select the necessary materials and tools, needles and threads that will be needed in the process of work;
• Before you start sewing, you need to make sure that the needle and thread guide are in the up position;
• Remember that the sewing machine needs to be helped at the moment of sewing, pulling the matter towards itself;
• After the sewing work is finished, raise the presser foot and pull out the fabric. Next, cut the thread, finding a free end in it in advance, the length of which will be equal to a maximum of seven, but a minimum of five centimeters.

There are rules and they must be followed. The use of quality materials and additional tools minimizes the occurrence of problems and malfunctions when working with sewing machines.Therefore, the following causes of malfunctions are the most common:

1. Thread break. A break can occur in both the upper and lower threads. In the first case, the problem is related to the selection of low-quality threads or the wrong size of the needle. In the second case, the problem of a sewing machine malfunction may be due to irregularities, the presence of burrs on the bobbins, and improper thread winding.
2. Problems with tissue advancement. If such a problem occurs, you need to carefully look at the position of the teeth. If they are pulled up or lowered to the bottom, then you need to bring them back to normal;
3. Cutting through fabric. If such a problem occurs, in order to fix the machine, we need to reduce the pressure of the presser foot, and check the condition of the needle, it may be too blunt.

The above problems are not serious, and are eliminated in a matter of minutes. But there are some types of problems that occur infrequently. Therefore, repairing sewing machines with your own hands, if they occur, will take a lot of time.

The most difficult, most serious breakdown should be considered the appearance of a knock during the operation of the sewing machine. To solve this problem, it is necessary to pull the flywheel several times, and do it in accordance with the axial direction of the machine.

In order to repair the sewing machine, it must be disassembled. We disassemble the sewing machine in the following sequence:

1. Remove RP (manual drive). It is necessary to remember its location, this will subsequently allow you to assemble a sewing machine in a short period of time;
2. Unscrew the limiter from the nut, which is a classic screw. It is under a manual drive, at the time of assembly it must be screwed back to its original location;
3. Remove flywheel. This must be done carefully, avoiding damage to it, in the event of a flywheel malfunction after assembling the machine, you need to see if everything is in order with it;
4. Remove the bobbin that looks like a cone. It is located below, after the flywheel. It will not be difficult to find her;
5. Remove the bushing from the shaft base;
6. Put a tin washer on the shaft. You can make such a washer very simply, just cut the bottom of the tin can.

The washer in 40% of cases is the key to high-quality work using a sewing machine. Sometimes adding it to the machine is enough to solve the problem, but this does not always happen. When the sewing machines are being adjusted, in 60-70% of cases it is necessary to turn the rail 180 degrees.

Needles are the basic elements that make a sewing machine work. From what needle will be chosen, its further work depends. If a defective needle is selected, then the occurrence of the above problems is not a rare case, because the needle is the basis, and without it it is impossible to sew a single thing.

Therefore, when choosing a needle, you must carefully consider its size and thickness. You also need to check the numbering of the needle if any complicated sewing work is being done, otherwise it may happen that the thing will not turn out the way you imagined it before.

There is another problem in which the wrong choice of needle can lead to stretching and tissue damage. If the needle is too thick and the fabric is thin, then you cannot use the needle with such a fabric, otherwise it will break.

Using too thick fabric with a small needle size may cause the needle to break. In order to sew something from a compacted fabric, you need to choose a thicker needle, if it is not available at home, then go to the store and purchase it. Before that, measure the thickness of the fabric in advance - this will allow you to pick up a needle in the store in a shorter time, you will need to tell the seller the thickness of the fabric, and he will independently select the needle of the size you need for you.

The mechanism of the JAGUAR sewing machine differs from the mechanisms of other models produced at that time. Let's see how it's set up.

On fig. 1 shows a front view.Here: 1. machine switch for three positions - from right to left - off, average speed, maximum speed; 2. Stitch length regulator; 3. Stitch selection knob; 4. Upper thread tension regulator (RNVN); 5. Removable table-pencil case.

Stitch length dial constantly spring up. On its rod there is a thread along which, during rotation, the adjusting nut moves. When rotated clockwise, the nut moves deeper into the machine, thereby reducing the stitch length. In the same way as on Podolsk 2M or Chaika 3, only there is an arbitrary installation due to the poppet washer.

Automation handle switch with a click stitch width also changes with a click, that is, by a certain distance. There is no separate width adjuster on this machine.

Let's go further, the side of the machine has a socket for connecting to a 220V network. The number 1 marks the hole through which, on some models of machines, we have access to the fastening of the stitch length regulator lever. see fig. 2. Flywheel does not have a friction mechanism, so winding the thread on the bobbin is not particularly convenient on this machine. Also, there is no jack for connecting the pedal.

The rear view is shown in fig. 3. At the very bottom is a plate with data about the machine. Almost all holes are closed with plugs, but for disassembly we will need to unscrew only those marked with the number 1. A mounting device is visible on the machine stand, a reel seat is inserted into it.
In work, sometimes you need to flash something narrow. On this machine pencil case very easy to remove, just slide it to the left. It also needs to be removed to replace the bobbin, as it blocks access to the shuttle.

Figure 5 shows a close-up of the machine control knobs. The arrow on the shuttle shows the place where the needle gets in case of incorrect adjustment or large play in the mechanism for transmitting movement from the main shaft to the shuttle.

Needle damage to the hook is a common occurrence in this model. If this happens, then the machine immediately began to skip, break the upper thread.

The upper thread clings to the sharp edges of the potholes, which also does not favor the good operation of the machine.

If you suddenly have to disassemble such a model, then pay attention to Figure 6.
This is how the hex screwdriver should be inserted into the bolt securing the stitch length adjustment knob.

Sometimes the fastening mechanism with its bolt looks to the right, then the answer must be inserted into the hole from the right side.

Attention! Do not try to disassemble the body products until you unscrew the fastening screw and remove the stitch length knob.

Before we start disassembling the JAGUAR sewing machine, it is necessary:
- remove the needle;
- remove the paw. Here, the foot with the holder is made as a single unit;
- remove the needle plate by unscrewing the two screws. On this machine, we need a Phillips screwdriver.

1. Fixing screw; 2. Needle plate; 3. Needle holder; 4. Needle clamp screw; 5. Foot; 6. Presser foot screw.

Figure 7 shows the same assembly, only with dismantled parts.

If you have the same machine, and not only this one, after you have removed the needle plate for cleaning, maintenance, etc. - check the tightness of fastening fabric conveyor. The fastening screws are indicated here by the number 5.

The feed dog (4) itself must be exactly in the middle of the slot in the needle plate and be strictly parallel to the edges of the hole. If this rule is not observed (fulfilled), then it is necessary to loosen the fastening screws, achieve the above and tighten both screws tightly.
Well, now let's look at the reason for the owner of the mini Jaguar sewing machine to be repaired. Figure 8 shows a close-up shuttle. Here we see that the surface of the shuttle at the needle entry point and picking up the nose of the hook of the needle thread very badly damaged. Such a shuttle needs to be changed. But since the shuttle here has a thinner working surface, it will not work with another model of the machine. I had to restore this shuttle.If possible, large potholes were removed, all edges and edges were rounded and polished, the nose of the shuttle was polished, but until the whole machine was assembled, it was not possible to check the operation of the shuttle.

After all (four) screws, marked with the number 1 in fig. 3, you need to lift the front cover and remove the connectors shown in fig. 9. The blue connector wires lead to the speed switch and will prevent us from removing the front cover.

In figure 10 we see two halves of a sewing machine.

Attention. When you assemble the body products back, be careful when inserting the bolts (self-tapping screws) into place. They can fall into the case and you have to disassemble everything again.

Figure 11 shows a close-up take-up unit. If you have already dealt with sewing machines, you will notice that the thread take-up unit here is different from other machines. The thread take-up itself at one end stands on an axis in the machine body, and its groove is dressed on the crank axis. In this place, the thread take-up can develop a groove in the axis, then there will be a knock and play in the work.

1. Needle bar. 2. Needle bar fixing screw. 3. Connecting lever. 4. Crank 5. Thread take-up 6. Main shaft eccentric. 7. Screw for fastening the connecting arm and the needle bar frame. In this place, the needle bar is adjusted in the lateral position.

Details of the machine stand are shown in Figure 12.

1. Control board
2. Electric drive
3. Worm
4. Automation mechanism.

Since there was a strong backlash in the shuttle drive in the car, I had to remove the board with the transformer, it was screwed with two screws, see fig. 13 to open access to the details of the bottom of the machine.

Now access to the details is open, first consider the details of the table on the left side. see fig. 14.

Shuttle housing attached to the back of the machine. Access is blocked by a plug. Shuttle pusher (2) driven by rack (4)

Shuttle device differs from similar ones on modern machines both in the method of fastening, and in size, and in the movement drive. The rail moves in a straight line to the left - to the right. The position of the rail sets the course of the machine.

1. Shuttle body; 2. Shuttle pusher; 3. Pusher spring; 4. Gear rack; 5. Hinged cover of the shuttle compartment; 6. Mounting bracket; 7. Latches of a clamping ring; 8. Conveyor lifting shaft.

If we look at the car to the right. then we will see the adjusting unit and the right end of the conveyor lift shaft. To the right, a clip stuck to the engine housing, which flew off the axis of the connecting lever that transmits movement from the main shaft to the toothed shaft.
Attention. That's the reason for the crash. A backlash appeared and, accordingly, malfunctions, a clip flew off and a backlash appeared.

By releasing the adjusting screw, you can change the position of the lower end of the connecting lever, respectively, the time of approach of the shuttle nose to the needle changes.

In Figure 16, you can take a closer look at the device and the operation of parts in the machine rack.

Connecting lever (1) swings on the axle (2). The stroke is adjusted by changing the position of the lower end of the connecting lever, which transmits the movement to the toothed shaft (5). Below the bolt (3) is a stud that supports the end of the conveyor lift shaft (4).

To the right you can see the connecting lever (fork) of the advance. This fork is responsible for transmitting the movement of the fabric conveyor. In the upper part, it rests on the advancing eccentric, then through the stone it is connected to the link of the stitch length regulator and, at the very bottom, to the crank shaft of the fabric conveyor motor.

To better consider stitch length adjuster remove the limit bar, look
figure 17

1. Regulator yoke; 2. Stone; 3. Lever; 4. Fixing screw; 5. Adjustment knob hole; 6. Eccentric advance.
By changing the position of the lever (3), the position of the regulator gate is changed.The stone in the wings starts moving along a different profile and, accordingly, the stitch length changes.

By swinging the lever (1) Figure 16, holding it at the bottom, you can determine if there is any play in the motion transmission system from the main shaft to the shuttle. If there is a decent backlash in this place, then it needs to be eliminated. The fact is that in the upper part this lever has a cylinder that runs in the groove of a large cylinder mounted on the main shaft, see Figures 18 and 19.

These figures show a device for converting the rotational movement of the main shaft into translational (linear) movements of the rack. The worm (1) of the automation mechanism is also very clearly visible, which is fastened with screws (2) (Fig. 18)

In Figure 19, contour 1 marks the control mechanism for almost all parts of the bottom of the machine. We can clearly see the groove (2) for the connecting lever. The bearing (5) of the main shaft (4) is fixed with a screw (6)

The part highlighted by the contour consists of several parts, made as a single whole. Don't touch it unless absolutely necessary.

On the left, the main shaft is shown in figure 20. main shaft (1) is adjusted using a shim (2) which is fixed with screws (3). Main shaft eccentric (4) is attached to the main shaft with a pin (5). The screw (6), which transmits the movement to the thread take-up (7), is painted over so that it does not need to be touched again, and also so that it does not unscrew itself. The connecting lever (8) with the crank moves in the thread take-up and on the cylinder, from prolonged operation, a groove may form and play will appear, which can be eliminated by bending the thread take-up.

When we looked at the case from the back side, we agreed that we only tighten the screws (1), why? Because on the inside they can end with a pin or axle, as in figure 21, positions 1 and 2. The connecting lever (3) on the axle (2) must not have any play and was fastened with a clip that fell off and stuck to the engine. Due to this, a backlash appeared, the course changed and the needle broke the shuttle. The toothed lever (4) on the right side had no play. We rise above - the adjusting unit, everything is fine here too. A little higher is the axis, after fixing this node with a clip, it also began to function normally. If there is a backlash between the cylinder and the groove in the cylinder of the main shaft, then you can get rid of it by bending the upper end of the lever towards you.
The advance shaft (5) transmits the movement to the fabric conveyor with the help of a fork (9) by means of a crank (6).
Presser bar (7) This car is black. The thread take-up is very visible (8)

The drive unit of this sewing machine is shown in Figure 22. Here: 1. motor; 2. fastening screws; 3. toothed belt; 4. Gear; 5. Bracket
Installing this unit on the machine is not difficult, you just need to withstand the condition of ease of movement and lack of play.

Reinstalling the parts that were removed, I think, will not be difficult for you. I got everything in place. The course in this car was selected individually, it turned out to be approximately
2.45 mm. I installed the front cover, connected the electrical wiring and tried to flash it on this machine, you will see the result in fig. 23

As it turned out, the elimination of backlash in the machine parts and the restoration of the shuttle led to a good result.

P.S. What I would like to say in conclusion is that this machine is very delicate, of course, even coarse fabrics can be sewn, but it’s not worth it. It is easy to move it to any place, work on it and clean it, it does not take up much space. The low sewing speed and the lack of a pedal are not very depressing. There are exactly the same machines with a power button on the sleeve and a pedal-button. For a good, permanent job, if someone sews at home, it will not work.

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Compact electric zigzag sewing machine. The body of the machine is plastic and consists of two halves. They are fastened with four screws: short screws at the top 1 and 3 (rice.164), long screws at the bottom 5 and 4. Screw entry from the back. When assembling, you must first be able to lower the screws into a deep hole 5 and 4, which must fall into their threaded, vertically standing bushings, then put the short screws in the deep holes in the same way 1 and 3.

Rice. 164. Appearance (from the back side) of the Jaguar sewing machine:

The electric motor of the Jaguar sewing machine has the following technical data: D = 36 mm, 1 (without pulley) = 57 mm, power - 15 watts. For comparison: the Polish electric motor TUR-2 has a power of 90 watts. The entire sewing machine is 95% plastic. Even the shuttle is made of two materials - the belt is made of metal, everything else is made of plastic.

The shuttle is right-handed, swinging in a vertical plane.

In order to set the desired distance from the shuttle to the needle when it is in its lowest position (and this distance on the left prick of the zigzag is 1 mm), the following operations must be performed:

1. Remove the electric motor with the transformer block.
2. Remove the needle.
3. Take the feed dog - the tissue feeder to the upper position and fix it.
4. Loosen the two screws securing the shuttle housing.
5. Raise the shuttle travel housing along with the left end of the horizontal drive rack that drives the shuttle pusher.
6. Slightly skew the left side of the shuttle travel housing upwards and carefully disengage the rack-drive with the pinion. Here, exercise maximum attention and caution so as not to break the plastic toothed rack-drive, which is hinged with a plastic rivet to a vertical plastic lever.
7. Move the gear rack-drive 1 tooth to the right or left (decide locally) in engagement with the spur driven gear of the shuttle pusher.
8. Put the shuttle travel housing in place, attach it with two screws, put the needle, lower the needle bar to its lowest position and see what is the distance between the shuttle nose and the needle. If the shuttle nose is 5-7 mm to the left of the needle or 3-4 mm to the right, repeat the whole operation from the beginning.

If the nose of the shuttle is 3-4 mm to the left of the needle or 1-2 mm to the right, fine-tune the position of the shuttle. Loosen the screw for adjusting the position of the shuttle relative to the needle and, by shifting the gear rack-drive to the right or left, set the distance between the needle and the nose of the shuttle to 1 mm.

Place the needle on the right zigzag prick. Bringing the nose of the shuttle to the needle, achieve their meeting at a distance of 1 mm above the upper edge of the eye of the needle. Adjust by moving the needle bar vertically. Here there are difficulties in that for the inner nut of the adjusting screw of the needle bar level, a hex socket wrench is needed, and the edge width is 1 mm. There is nowhere to take it, and it is not attached to the car. Therefore, it is better to replace it with an ordinary screw without a head with an M4 thread. How can you maintain a machine with such an unprecedentedly complex adjustment (adjustment)?

The shuttle in diameter and height (axis) corresponds to the shuttle from the Chaika machine. But the height of its girdle is 3.5 mm, and the height of the girdle of the shuttle of the Chaika machine is 4.5 mm.

The needle bar is of very low hardness and has a play in the frame, which is clearly felt by hand, this is clearly unacceptable for a sewing machine. The needle is closely offset to the back wall in the needle hole.

It is necessary to remove the needle bar and bend it forward by 0.4-0.5 mm. To remove the needle bar, it is necessary to: remove the shuttle travel housing, lower the feed dog - fabric feeder and remove the needle bar down. When installing the needle bar, you must again catch the gear connection of the lower plastic rack-drive of the shuttle with the cylindrical gear.

When sewing, the result is not a straight line, but a wavy line.

The block of copy disks is made integral with the driven gear (rice. 165).

Rice. 165. Detail - plastic driven gear with a block of copy disks (Jaguar machine):