In detail: do-it-yourself sewing machine repair seagull 143 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The Seagull sewing machine is perhaps the most popular model of a home sewing machine, despite the abundance of imported household sewing machines in stores. At one time, I had to buy it for a lot of money, and it seemed like she sewed well recently, only something began to wind. It's almost impossible for her to break. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the components are strong and reliable - everything is in the style of Soviet technology. But, unfortunately, it winds practically “from birth” and knocks when sewing, like a machine gun.
Many other “charms” were provided by the plant along with instructions for device and use, where almost 5 pages describe how the pedal is arranged, the electrical circuit of the engine is given, but not a word about how to set up and repair Seagull sewing machine.
The Seagull sewing machine has many models that differ little from each other: Seagull 2; 3; 142m; 132; 134; 143 and others. Sewing machines of the Podolsk plant: Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1 others, as well as the Malva sewing machine, have approximately the same device as Chaika. Therefore, the instructions for one of these machines are quite suitable for any model of a full zigzag sewing machine, such as Chaika.
Setting up, adjusting and repairing Seagull sewing machines is almost the same for all models mentioned above, with the exception of copier repair (depending on the machine model) and setting some shuttle parameters. But since our task is to learn how to tune only the line, we will omit the repair of many nodes in this article. In addition, such repairs cannot be done with your own hands, without professional knowledge and experience, and even at home.
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Before proceeding with the repair and adjustment of the Chaika sewing machine with your own hands, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws on top). Detach the presser foot, remove the needle and needle plate, bobbin cover. Detach the machine from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the shuttle: bobbin case, locking ring, shuttle. Now remove dust, dirt, lint from the machine (especially in the shuttle compartment) and lubricate all rubbing, accessible places well with machine oil. You can look at the places that need to be lubricated in the instructions for the machine or lubricate all available rubbing metal parts and assemblies.
It is very convenient to use a medical disposable syringe for lubrication, just choose the size so that it fits in the neck of the oil container. The needle must be removed when filling with oil.
The main malfunction of machines of the “Seagull” type that perform a zigzag stitch and several types of finishing stitches based on it are skips, looping of the lower and upper threads, as well as thread breaks from above and below. It is these faults and how to fix them that we will consider in this article.
Thread breakage most often occurs with Chaika-type sewing machines. The first reason leading to thread breakage is the bent point of a blunt needle, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible.
Use serviceable needles and designed for Chaika sewing machines, in accordance with the instructions.
A broken thread can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, then the thread will break periodically.When performing a straight stitch, the needle should be located in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly removed from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the needle position L should be the same with R.
Longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle gap is carried out by shifting the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker arm, in the upper part of the machine (turn the flywheel on the zigzag line and you will see this mount).
Loosen these screws and set (on a straight stitch) the needle exactly in the center (offsetting the needle bar frame). After that, check the position of the needle with its left and right injection. I hope that the entry of the needle (at the maximum width of the zigzag), on the right and on the left, will be evenly removed from the center. If it touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag, contact the master, this case is already for him.
The transverse position of the needle is regulated by a rod mounted on a plate with two screws and a plate pressing the needle bar frame to the bracket rod. Adjusting this assembly is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously go astray during operation, especially the Chaika electric sewing machine. Therefore, if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust the position of the needle, since moving the needle forward is the cause of its breakdown, and moving away from the seamstress is the cause of skips.
Adjusting the needle position requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the wizard, as it can cause other components to fail, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.
It can be added that when using a curved needle, notches may form on the nose of the shuttle, which “unwind” the thread and break. The nose of the shuttle should be perfectly smooth and sharp, without roughness. Its condition can be determined by running a fingernail along the edge of the spout or using a magnifying glass. The pressure plate tightening screw must not be serrated, the latch handle must be clearly fixed and its surface must be clean and smooth. The shuttle itself must also be perfectly clean, without nicks and rust spots.
When sewing rough fabrics, sometimes the needle moves up along with the needle bar. There are gaps in the stitch. In this photo, the arrows indicate where the needle bar fastening screw and the upper thread tensioner fastening screw are located.
Incorrect position of the hook of Chaika sewing machines leads to thread breakage and the appearance of other stitching defects, including gaps. Passes usually appear due to the wrong position of the shuttle at the moment of meeting with the needle - the nose of the shuttle does not capture the loop formed, passes by and a gap is formed. Many other factors can be the reason.
In order to correctly set the position of the meeting of the nose of the shuttle and the needle, it is necessary to adjust the position of the shuttle. You can loosen the two bolts that secure it and gently, using a powerful screwdriver, move or move away the move along with the shuttle in relation to the needle. The shuttle travel rotates on an axle rather than moving back and forth. This is a very important point. No need to pull it out with a nail puller or hammer it in with a hammer, it easily turns on its axis. It is difficult for an inexperienced person to immediately understand what is at stake, but it is also very difficult to explain in more detail. Everything that can be added, carefully understand before you twist something, and even more so unscrew it. There should be no remaining parts after repair.
At the time of the meeting of the nose of the shuttle and the blade of the needle, the following parameters must be observed: the gap between the nose and the blade is approximately 0.15 mm; when the needle leaves the lower position to a height of 1.8 - 2.0 mm, the nose should approach it above the eye of the needle by 1 mm, at least, but not more than 3 mm.
By the way, a very important point is the lifting of the needle from the lower position (1.8 - 2.0 mm). This parameter affects the formation of the needle loop and should be given special attention. In order for the nose to grab the thread from the needle, it is necessary that a loop is formed, where it passes, hooking it. That is why the needle must first go down and then, having risen a little, already meet the looper nose.
The position of the needle is also regulated by the needle bar, for this there is a screw for attaching it to the sleeve under the front cover (see above).
If you set such parameters for adjusting the shuttle, then sewing machine “Seagull” will work relatively well. But, unfortunately, this repair is not over. There are still many other shuttle settings that are quite complex and necessary for the Chaika sewing machine. It is there that the reasons for the looping of the thread and such a rare phenomenon for sewing machines are hidden - the breakage of the lower thread. The difficulty of presenting this material is that for almost any model of the “Chaika” sewing machine, engineers have provided for their own settings for this unit, which, moreover, requires a lot of experience from the performer. For which they are thanked, at least from sewing machine repairmen. They will not be left without work as long as there are “Chaika” sewing machines.
Sometimes you have to remove the flywheel from the machine. There are only three parts in this knot, but many people cannot assemble it correctly. This is due to the fact that it would be more logical to insert the petals of the friction washer inside the slot of the shaft, which is why they do so. As a result, the machine starts to spin idle.
The petals should not be turned towards the body of the machine (shaft), but towards you. Not only that, they can be supplied in “two options”, choose one in which the limit screw will not interfere with tightening the flywheel mount.
Inexpensive sewing machine: “Pros and cons” For many who are going to learn how to sew, the question often arises “Which sewing machine to buy”, preferably an inexpensive and good one. In this article, we will figure out whether such a combination is possible - “an inexpensive and good machine” and how an inexpensive sewing machine worth 3-4 thousand rubles differs from a machine costing 30 thousand.
Podolsk sewing machine The most reliable and easy-to-use sewing machine, as well as the Chaika sewing machine “originally” from the USSR, but unlike the Chaika, it hardly breaks and is capable of sewing any thick and coarse fabrics, including leather.
Do-it-yourself sewing machine repair The looping of the thread in the line is perhaps the main difference between zigzag sewing machines, such as Chaika, Podolskaya of all models, as well as a characteristic knock at work. In short, looping in the line occurs due to uneven thread tension along its path: a broken compensation spring, a rusty sole of the foot, the shuttle stroke is incorrectly set, etc.
Overlock Setting Tips In the article on repairing the Chaika sewing machine, not all recommendations are given on how to set up a sewing machine. Many issues are discussed in other articles on the site. For example, in this article you will learn what is important for a sewing machine, including seagulls, sewing threads and needles.
We sew knitwear without gaps and looping Many who have tried to sew knitwear on a conventional sewing machine have noticed that the machine often refuses to make a beautiful and even stitch. Gaps form in the knitted line, the lower thread winds, and sometimes breaks. Why is this happening and how can I fix it?
Decorative stitching on a difficult area Sometimes you need to make a perfectly even decorative line on a product, but you can’t draw a line with chalk - traces will remain, and there is not enough experience to scribble “by eye”. Simple tips on how to stitch on "difficult" areas.
How to hem a skirt Read this article if you do not know how to hem a skirt, including chiffon. Finishing the bottom of the skirt with a hidden seam.
This is a complex zigzag machine that performs special and decorative stitches. Version with electric drive.
Malfunctions typical for Chaika machines: breakage of the lower thread, looping of the upper thread from below, strong weakening of the lower thread in the line, skipping stitches when sewing nylon, etc.
According to the device and parameters, this model of the machine differs from the machine "Seagull" -142M class. PMZ one design change that needs to be considered in more detail here.
The needle bar frame is connected to the presser bar frame (rice. 78). The needle bar frame at the top is placed on the axis 5 swinging with a zigzag, and at the bottom it has an elongated horizontally located hole, inside of which a guide rod is placed 11fixed with the lock screw in the hole in the frame of the presser foot bar. In the lower connection, the needle bar frame is structurally unsuccessful, since it is protected from transverse play by four gaps: two of them are located on the back side of the frame, and two on the front.
If we take into account that the gap between the nose of the hook and the needle at the moment of grabbing the thread is 0.1 mm, and when sewing nylon - 0.05 mm, then such a connection design (with four gaps) does not meet the requirements for reliable operation of the machine. The total play in the transverse direction of this connection reaches 0.2 mm. And this means that with a normally adjusted machine, skipped stitches in a line and breakage of needles are quite possible.
Rice. 78. Needle bar frame and presser foot assembly
(cars "Chaika" -143 cells, "Chaika" -134 cells):
When adjusting the position of the needle in the slot of the needle plate, you should do this: loosen screw 2 and move the upper part of the block of both frames back - the needle will move forward; if you move the upper part of the block forward, the needle will move back. The axis of rotation of the entire block is the screw 15. It shouldn't be touched.
But the same adjustment can be done like this: loosen the locking screw 14 and feed the needle bar 12 back or forward, i.e. put the needle in the center in the needle plate (see fig. 15) so that A = B on the tip of the needle (at the beginning of the needle entry into the plate).
Then tighten the screw 14. This adjustment is simpler, but it is unreliable due to the small size of the screw. 14.
The position of the needle (center) relative to the back and front walls of the needle hole is the main adjustment. It is more likely than all the parameters to go astray and, of course, most often disables the machine. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention to it more often than to other parameters.
Some owners of sewing machines such as "Seagull" would like to transfer the drive of the machine from electric or foot to manual. But the whole trouble is that there is no hole for the manual drive leash on the flywheel of the Chaika car. In the state workshop, work related to the transfer of the machine to a manual drive will not be able to be done - the instruction is prohibited. You have to go to a private trader.
It would be better if the manufacturer made two such holes on the flywheel (due to balancing balance).
At the end of 1992, the manufacturer began to produce electric Chaika cars made in Belarus. A characteristic feature of this drive is the presence on the electric motor of an electronic regulator for limiting the maximum speed of the flywheel. This is an extremely valuable, practical and much-needed innovation when working on a sewing machine.
When setting gaps (distances), be guided by the material set forth in Part 3, “Sewing Machine "Seagull" -142M class. PMZ". Troubleshooting - see parts 1 and 2, as well as part 3, "The sewing machine "Podolsk" -142 cells. PMZ".
Fault: zigzag stitch; the right thrust deviates to the left. Cause: The pin connecting the needle bar to the connecting rod is long and touches the squeezing washer pusher in the upper thread regulator. The knot must be disassembled and the finger shortened by 1.5-2 mm.
All the best, write
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Before us is a sewing machine of the late 20th century, manufactured by the Podolsk Plant named after. Kalinin. The machine, like previous models, is completely made of metal. Automation, as it was from 5 copiers, remained with the same number. True, almost 100% of the owners of the machine sewed in one position of the program selection knob.
Upper thread tension regulator (The thermometer) is made in a metal case, the compensation spring works from right to left, which is not particularly successful, see fig. 2
After removing the top cover, we can see that all parts of the machine are the same as in class 142, see fig. 3:
1. Sewing program selection knob;
2. Stitch width setting knob;
3. Needle bar position switch (left, center, right);
4. The body of the automation mechanism;
5. Copier pullers;
6. Copiers
On fig. 4 you can see the main difference from class 142 cars, namely the mechanism of the needle bar and the presser foot bar.
So, in order to correctly adjust the position of the needle bar, you first need to correctly install withpresser foot bar. We loosen screws 1 and 2 and set the foot relative to the slot of the needle hole and tighten the screws.
After loosening the screw 3, we set the position of the needle bar relative to sewing, do not forget that the tip of the needle No. 100 should enter exactly into the center of the hole.
Adjusting washer remove the needle bar, to do this, release two screws 7, press the washer to the frame and tighten the screws. Screws 4 and 5 are used to fix and adjust the height of the presser foot and the position of the needle bar, respectively.
Screw 6 fix the position of the thermometer. This screw must be tightened periodically. Thread take-up mechanism the same as in the car 142 class.
Figure 5 shows correct installation of the gear sector and the gear of the shuttle. The third gear tooth must fit between the first and second sector teeth.
The bottom of the car has not undergone any changes (see Fig. 6):
1. Guide;
2. Cam (lifting eccentric);
3. Stitch length regulator;
4. The lower end of the drawbar;
5. Crank;
6. Crank fastening screw (by loosening it, the stroke is adjusted);
7. Screw for fastening the reverse gear;
8. Screw (advance setting);
9. Lower end of the fork;
10. Crank;
11. Fastening bolt (setting the position of the teeth of the fabric conveyor).
Figure 7 shows the bottom of the machine on the left:
1. Handle for selecting the height of the lifting of the teeth of the conveyor;
2. Fastening screw, with its help the height of the teeth is adjusted;
3. Guide;
4. Screws for fastening the lifting eccentric;
5. Eccentric lifting;
6. Fabric conveyor shaft;
7. Shuttle device;
8. Clamp clamp screw;
9. Toothed sector;
10. Shuttle gear;
11. Adjusting washer.
Adjustment of all nodes and parts, progress and advancement, elimination of backlash in the nodes is exactly the same as in class machines. 142, therefore, after watching the film, it will not be difficult for you to disassemble, assemble and adjust the sewing machine.
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The Seagull sewing machine manual can be used as a manual for any sewing machine models that perform a seagull zigzag stitch: Seagull 2, Seagull 3, Seagull 134.
This instruction for the Chaika sewing machine is also suitable for Malva and Podolsk brand sewing machines: Podolsk 142, Podolsk 142M, etc.
This instruction manual for the Chaika sewing machine is given in abbreviated form, based on the manufacturer's instructions.
The operation and device of the Podolsk and Chaika sewing machine are almost the same, therefore this instruction manual is suitable for all models of these sewing machines, including the Malva sewing machine.They have the same device and differ only in the presence of additional types of zigzag stitches. Some Chaika and Podolskaya models have an additional device (copier) for this and, accordingly, a lever for switching its operating modes. The shuttle device, threading and adjustment parameters of the units and mechanisms of these sewing machines are almost the same, with the exception of setting some settings for the shuttle operation parameters (depending on the model of the machine).
For details on how to set up and perform minor repairs on sewing machines such as Chaika, see other articles in the section on repairing sewing machines.
1. Shuttle device. 2. Platform. 3. Needle plate. 4. Presser foot. 5. Needle bar. i6. Presser foot lifter. 7. Upper thread tension regulator. 8. Top and front covers. 9. Thread take-up lever. 10. Tension washers. 11. Index of the type of lines. 12. Zigzag width indicator. 13. Rod for the coil. 14. Winder. 15. Flywheel. 16. Needle shift lever. 17. Zigzag handle. 18. Reverse feed lever. 19. Stitch length knob. 20. Comb lift control knob. 21. Engine material. 22. Picture panel. 23. Handle for switching copier unit.
Fine grades of silk, batiste - needle number 70, thread - 65 Sheet, calico, chintz, satin, silk, linen fabrics - needle No. 80, thread - 65
Heavy cotton fabrics, coarse calico, flannel, thin woolen fabrics, heavy silks - needle number 90
Woolen suits - No. 100 needles
Thick woolen coat fabrics, broadcloth - needle no. 110
Needle 1 must be installed in needle holder 2 (with the needle bar in the upper position) up to the stop and secured with screw 3.
The flat side of the flask 4 (flat) on the needle should be turned in the opposite direction from the working person (Fig. 4)
Top threading Pull the spool pin 13 up to the stop out of the sleeve cover.
Set the thread take-up eye to the highest position by turning the handwheel.
Raise the presser foot.
Install a spool of thread on the rod 13.
You need to thread the upper thread in this sequence. Into the holes 7 and 6 of the leaf thread guide, between the washers 8 of the tension regulator, then up into the eye 4 of the thread take-up spring, down under the thread take-up hook 3, up through the hole of the thread take-up lever 5, down into the wire thread guide 2, into the thread guide 1 on the needle bar and put into the eye needle 9 from the side of the worker.
Threading the lower thread
Before threading the lower thread, you need to pull out the bobbin case with the bobbin from the bobbin, for which you need to turn the handwheel to put the needle in the upper position. Pull out the sliding plate, grab the bobbin case latch lever with two fingers of your left hand and remove the bobbin case.
Wind the thread onto the bobbin using a winder. When winding the thread on the bobbin, the handwheel of the machine should rotate idly. To do this, release the friction screw 1 (Fig. 8). Put the bobbin on the winder spindle 2 so that the spindle spring enters the bobbin slot. Spool 1 with threads put on the spool pin. Thread from the spool between the tension washers 4, as shown in fig. 9, and then wind a few turns on the bobbin by hand. Pull the winder up to the flywheel. Further winding by rotating the flywheel with the help of the drive.
After the bobbin is fully wound, the winder rubber ring will no longer come into contact with the handwheel, and winding will stop. Before removing the bobbin, the winder must be moved to the left from stop 3.
Thread the wound bobbin into the bobbin case and thread under the tension spring as shown in Fig. 10. Leave the free end of the thread 10-15 cm long.
Insert the bobbin case with the bobbin threaded into the hook. In this case, the needle should be in the up position.
Put the bobbin case with the bobbin on the rod 3 of the hook until it stops. In this case, the finger 1 of the bobbin case should enter the slot 2 (Fig. 11).
To ensure easy running of the machine and prevent wear, all places indicated by arrows should be lubricated with one or two drops of industrial oil I-20A GOST 20799-75. Machine head lubrication points (Fig. 17)
Lubrication points for the zigzag mechanism (Fig. 19)
Cleaning and lubricating the hook (Fig. 20)
The heavy running of the machine, and sometimes jamming, can occur from contamination of the shuttle. The course is clogged with scraps of thread, tows of fabric, dust.
See also Sewing machine lubrication
To clean the shuttle stroke, the needle bar must be placed in the upper position. Pull out the bobbin case 1, remove the trim ring 2 by turning the spring lock towards you, remove the hook 3. Carefully clean the hook socket 4 with a brush-brush from dust, dirt, threads. In this case, it is not allowed to use metal objects for cleaning, so as not to damage the cleanliness of the working surface. The direction for the shuttle in the stroke housing and the winder spindle are also lubricated with 1-2 drops of oil.
The Chaika sewing machine is perhaps the most popular model of a sewing machine for the home, despite the abundance of imported household sewing machines in stores. At one time, I had to buy Chaika for a lot of money, and she seems to sew well, only sometimes she winds, otherwise everything is whole and unharmed. Indeed, it is almost impossible to break the Seagull sewing machine. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the components are strong and reliable - everything is in the style of Soviet technology. But, unfortunately, the line winds
practically “from birth”, gaps sometimes appear in the line, especially on a zigzag and knocks when sewing, like a machine gun.
The manufacturer includes instructions for the Chaika sewing machine in the kit, which details how to use the machine and perform various operations, there is even an electrical circuit of the electric motor, a pedal device, but there is not a word about how to set up and perform at least minor repairs to the Chaika sewing machine. We will try to fill this gap in the instructions and give some recommendations on how to repair the Chaika sewing machine with your own hands.
The main malfunction of machines of the “Seagull” type that perform a zigzag stitch and several types of finishing stitches based on it are skips, looping of the lower and upper threads, as well as breaking it from above and below. Sewing machine Chaika, Chaika M, Chaika 142, Chaika 132, Chaika 134, Chaika 132 m, Chaika 142 M, Chaika 143, Chaika 3, Chaika 2 and Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1; Malva and others - all these machines have the same device and instructions for use and setup, so their repair is almost the same, with the exception of repairing the copier (depending on the model of the machine) and setting the shuttle settings. But since our task is to learn how to tune only the line, we will omit the repair of many nodes. In addition, such repairs cannot be done with your own hands, without professional knowledge and experience at home.
Before proceeding with the repair and adjustment of the Chaika sewing machine on your own, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, and lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws). Detach the presser foot, remove the needle and needle plate, bobbin cover. Detach the machine from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the shuttle: bobbin case, locking ring, shuttle. Now remove dust, dirt, lint from the machine (especially in the shuttle compartment) and lubricate all rubbing, accessible places well with machine oil. For cleaning, use a hard small brush for glue, and it is very convenient to use a medical disposable syringe to lubricate the sewing machine.
Thread breakage often occurs with Seagull-type sewing machines.The first reason leading to thread breakage is a bent needle point, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible. Use serviceable needles and designed only for household sewing machines, in accordance with See instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk 142 Sewing machine needles must be in perfect condition. The condition of the needle can be determined by running your fingernail along the tip of the needle or using a magnifying glass. Often it is the needle that causes gaps in stitches, needle breakage and other stitching defects.
Choose the number of the needle depending on the thickness of the fabric and thread. Do not use commercial grade needles with a round head for household sewing machines. Needles for household sewing machines have a cut on the flask.
For sewing various fabrics and materials, use the appropriate type of needle, for example, for sewing leather, the needle has a square point, which makes it easier to pierce the material and contributes to the formation of a loop on the needle when it is caught by the hook nose.
A broken thread can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, then the thread will break periodically. When performing a straight stitch, the needle should be located in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly removed from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the distance L should be the same with R. The longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle gap is carried out by shifting the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker arm, in the upper part of the machine (turn the flywheel on the zigzag line and you will see this mount). Loosen these screws and set the needle exactly in the center on a straight stitch (offsetting the needle bar frame). Then check the position of the needle with the left and right injection. The needle entry (at the maximum zigzag width), right and left will be evenly spaced from the center. If the needle touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag, contact the master, this case is already for him.
The transverse position of the needle is regulated by a rod fixed to the plate with two screws and a plate pressing the needle bar frame to the bracket rod. Adjusting this assembly is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously go astray during operation, especially for electric sewing machines. Therefore, if you decide to repair the Chaika sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust this position of the needle, since the displacement of the needle forward is the cause of its breakdown, and the displacement towards the seamstress is the cause of skips.
Adjusting the lateral position of the needle requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the master, since the wrong position of the needle can cause misalignment of other nodes, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.
Pay attention to the condition of the needle plate. Hole e must not be “broken” or notched. It is better to replace such a plate.
Does anyone have instructions for the sewing machine CHAYKA - 143?
I really need it, I want to master the overlog and other functions. send it to email. or give a link where you can download. Thanks in advance
DEAR BUYER!
Thank you for purchasing our sewing machine.
Please read this manual and the motor manual carefully before you start sewing with the machine. You will find everything you need about the sewing operations that your machine performs.
SAVE THIS MANUAL.
Before connecting the machine to the network, make sure that there is no violation
insulation in connecting wires. In the event of a cord failure
power supply needs to be replaced.
The machine can only be connected to the mains with a voltage of 220 V. When
127 V network voltage, you must use a transformer.
Remove the mains plug from the mains socket if the machine
left unattended, as well as when carrying out repairs, cleaning, lubricating and
replacement of the light bulb.
The maximum power of the incandescent lamp, W - 15.
Proper needle placement is one of the main conditions for work.
cars.
Turn the flywheel towards you only.
Before you start sewing, you need first insert the needle into the material,
holding the ends of the threads, then lower the presser foot and do 2-3
injection by turning the handwheel by hand.
At wrong threading machine will not sew.
Keep the machine clean and regularly lubricated. Not for
machine lubrication use vegetable and animal oils that harden
deviate, causing a heavy movement of the machine.
Sewing machine oil must be used to lubricate the machine.
or oil type I-20A GOST 20799-88.
Do not pull or push the material during sewing,
Working on a sewing machine requires a certain skill. So
beginners need to learn drive the machine with the presser foot up
without tucked threads.
In case of fabric jams, it is recommended to raise the presser foot, and advance the material a little by hand, while the needle should be out of the material.
It must be remembered that start the machine in motion without putting under the pressure paw material cannot be otherwise, the feed dog teeth and the surface of the presser foot will deteriorate.
Below is a link to the manual in pdf format
Despite the modern range of sewing equipment, Chaika household sewing machines do not lose popularity. This technique is amazing resource. However, given its age, especially with intensive use, certain malfunctions are not uncommon. Fortunately, the repair of sewing machines Chaika 143 and other models is not a particular problem.
Users of this model and sewing equipment repairmen note that among the frequent problems that they encounter are breakage and bending of the needles, breakage of the upper or lower thread, skipped stitches, poor quality stitching.
By opening the user manual, you can fix a simple malfunction yourself. As a rule, for this you need to correctly select, insert and secure the needle, adjust the mechanism that controls the movement of the needle and the feed of the thread.
However, the problem may lie deeper, requiring a serious professional repair of the components and mechanisms of the sewing machine:
- if the electric drive is faulty, then only the master can fix the problem;
- if there is a spontaneous change in the transverse position of the needle, then it is also better to entrust the technique to experienced specialists, since a malfunction can lead to discord in other nodes.
In addition, it is worth remembering that Chaika-143 imposes rather strict requirements on the selection and use of needles and threads. So, only recommended needles for this brand of sewing machines are allowed, and their number is selected in accordance with the type of fabric and the number of thread used for stitching.
If the needle plate or shuttle socket requires replacement, then you need to use original parts designed for this machine, which are always in the arsenal of a professional master of a specialized service for repairing sewing equipment from ARS-Master.
- Experienced ASR-Master specialists repair Chaika 143 sewing machines on site. There is no longer a need to deliver the equipment to the workshop. This is convenient and will save time and effort.
- In addition, the master comes to the call in a short time, and the diagnostics, repair and debugging of the sewing machine will not take more than two hours.
- In addition to eliminating the immediate malfunction, the specialist will assess the technical condition of the machine, give the necessary recommendations or prevent malfunctions (cleaning the sewing machine units, lubricating, etc.).
- The result of the work is guaranteed. If during the warranty period the malfunction reappears, the company will eliminate it at its own expense.
Trust the experience of professionals, and your Chaika 143 will be able to please with its functionality for more than one year.
What are you going to fix in the sewing machine? With regards to products from the time of Stalin, nothing ... It still works. Modern breakdowns are tormented, a lot of settings go astray, requiring correction to get the desired result. We have nothing against progress, but a society preoccupied with consumption is considered by historians as an intermediate stage. Like a tax on bridges erected by medieval feudal lords to pay tribute to pedestrians. It got to insanity: structures were built out of the blue for profit. Poor-quality things are akin to ancient savagery, will become a thing of the past. Repairing sewing machines with your own hands is a pleasure to do! The weak half is strong in needlework when a strong helper is at home.
In 1953, Clifford Simak's short story, The Ring Around the Sun, was published. The meaning of the plot: there are countless myriads of Earths in orbit, located in parallel universes. Events developed against the backdrop of the curious invention of the eternal light bulb. Then came the vechmobiles. Clifford described the fall of the consumer society, the goods were bought once, used for a lifetime, remember Stalin ... There was a revolution, the working people, afraid of losing their jobs, began to smash the modernized factories, the most interesting thing was built by people moving between dimensions. In a circle around the sun.
Until 1829, we will call the inventions of the sewing machine field unsuccessful, although Leonardo da Vinci created the first drawings that future generations would be equal to. In the era of manufactories, the French tailor Timonnier created a wooden model, which they immediately began to copy and multiply. One replaced several apprentices. There were mass demonstrations of artisans who saw a threat to existence (I wonder what the rulers will do, if scientists create a computer that makes decisions, knows how to grimace, they will immediately destroy it?). The matter went far: 200 local tailors destroyed the workshop of new mechanical sewing machines, Timonier had to flee, fearing for the safety of his life. Not the first case: the inventor of the loom suffered a similar fate.
Surviving fruits of the technological revolution
During his life, Timonnier created a billion modifications of the sewing machine. Some technical solutions are still used by household, industrial modifications. Machines made 300 stitches every minute, today's electric models are able to give out three times as much. For 200 years! The frequency of computer processors doubles every two to three years (after 2010, the growth has decreased). Timonier's sewing machine worked with silk and other delicate fabrics.
In parallel, in 1834, Walter Hunt invented a model with a shuttle, reminiscent of modern ones. By 1848, Elios Howe created the first sewing machine containing the features of the current ones. The cloth feeder appears. The sewing machine is equipped with a horizontal curved needle, makes 300 stitches per minute, replaces three tailors. The US workers rebelled and destroyed the workshop. The inventor had to flee, fearing for his life. The last stitch must have been done by Singer. Gave the needle a vertical movement, introducing a modern look of serrated strips pressed by the foot. In 1900, the Podolsk workshop was built, where 5,000 people worked by the October Revolution. Initially, Singer spare parts were brought from the USA, then they began to be manufactured in Russia.
Brother, Janome, Bernina, and other brands of sewing machines appeared. People are afraid of change, but change is inevitable. Revolutionaries slow down progress.Imagine if inventors stopped producing promising technologies. Humanity will continue to develop caves, trees instead of cities with multi-storey buildings.
I immediately remembered modern economical light bulbs. I had a chance to talk with an old sewing machine, it became clear, probably, since the invention, the technology has retained the principle and settings. The quality of the parts was not the same. Although they discovered smooth surfaces (nanotechnology), they created durable alloys. The main shaft with a crankshaft is introduced inside. The moving parts of the sewing machine work from it. Which, will be indicated below, affects the repair of manual sewing machines:
- The needle is directly connected to the shaft. To ensure translational movement up and down, a crankshaft is carried out inside. The needle has an eye where the thread is threaded. When moving down, the fabric is pierced, the loop is captured by the shuttle moving in a circle, in one direction, in the other. For 1 revolution of the main shaft, it manages to run back and forth.
- The shuttle is driven by a separate shaft connected to the main shaft by means of a knee. The phase of movement is regulated by a screw. You can rotate the auxiliary shaft relative to the main one. Synchronization of movement is achieved. Let's discuss the repair of the sewing machine shuttle.
- The third component, which ensures the movement of the fabric along the seam in the right direction, is the toothed strips. Made of steel, they move like human legs when walking. They go down, go forward, go up, go back. There is one cycle per stitch.
It is important to correctly set the vertical position of the toothed bars. When the needle is pierced into the fabric, the upper edges of the teeth will be at the level of the sewing machine table.
Unlike other devices, toothed bars are driven by two shafts. One is responsible for horizontal movement, the other for vertical movement. The adjustment method is the same. A twisted screw on the axis of the corresponding shaft, changing the position of the segment relative to the phase of the main shaft. The correct setting of the toothed bars is achieved.
It is important to ensure that the needle is in the correct position relative to the hook. Remember three landmarks to follow. Please note: for modern models, old ones are arranged differently, and tuning is required once every hundred years (twice since the invention)!
- In the lower position, the eye of the needle is 4 - 6 mm below the nose of the vertical hook.
- The nose of the shuttle is compared with the edge of the needle - the distance from the upper edge of the hole-nose is 1 mm.
- When the upper edge of the eye coincides with the lower edge of the shuttle nose, the latter should extend 1 mm beyond the needle.
Approximate landmarks, you can use, decorate the horizon, the need to repair sewing machines with your own hands.
A wise mother instructs her daughter correctly
Repairing a sewing machine electric drive is not the only thing you can do. The heel pressure is adjustable so that the fabric stops crawling. It is made with a special screw. There is a spring inside, so the setting can be approximate, rarely required. Regarding the said length of stitches. For thin fabrics, more frequent ones are recommended, for thick fabrics - rare ones. In mechanical machines, the reverse is often turned on with the handle, it is inconvenient when you need to sew a patch, it is better to forget about the inscriptions altogether.
It is much more important to correctly set the tension of the lower and upper threads. If done incorrectly, a number of unpleasant effects will occur when using a sewing machine:
- When the upper thread tension is loosened, there will be loops at the bottom of the seam. Corrected by a special adjustment mechanism until the result is satisfactory. You can loosen the bobbin thread with the bobbin screw. It is important to know: too little tension is not allowed - the seam will not work at all - too strong - the thread may break. The last two cases are malfunctions, take note.
- Pull the upper thread too tight and the fabric will begin to pull. Seen by jagged, billowing edges. You can let go of the top thread, tighten the bottom thread.Please note: do not be too zealous. The pulled thread breaks, as mentioned above.
Ideally, the interweaving of two threads occurs inside the material. When the needle rises from the bottom position, the eyelet is caught by the shuttle. A turn is made, an interlacing is formed. The needle rises, tightening the stitch. If the thread is inserted incorrectly, it breaks. YouTube shows a video: a serviceable sewing machine was taken for repair, the master did nothing, took 1000 rubles, returned the product. Then the situation came out, dissatisfied customers disturbed the guru. The money was returned, accompanied by small verbal parting words.
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A dull, thin needle will cause skipped stitches. The thread number corresponds to the needle number. In modern sewing machines, one feature that needs to be considered. For each needle, a guide stop was placed under the surface of the table, preventing the tip from moving to the side. The distance to it is greater, the thicker the fabric. Unfortunately, we can not give any signs of a malfunction, just keep in mind: a similar setting has been noticed. Repair of the foot sewing machine has a feature: the drive is switched on remotely. Except for the button, there is little difference. Repairing the pedal of a sewing machine is more akin to carpentry, soldering art.
