Do-it-yourself linoleum seam repair

In detail: do-it-yourself linoleum seam repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

P Despite the high reliability of the linoleum coating, sometimes, unfortunately, you still have to look for information on how to repair linoleum. This page will give you answers to most questions related to linoleum floor repair.

The most common type of damage is when (for example, moving furniture) a piece breaks out of the coating and the tear is in the form of an angle. At the same time, the torn triangle continues to connect with the main carpet on one side. Usually such damage is accompanied by more or less significant collapse of the coating.

If such an incident occurs, after completing the work that caused the damage, you should not postpone the repair of the torn floor. Immediately lay the torn off corner, if possible, in its original position, cover it with a flat board (or at least a book with a thick cardboard cover), and load something well on top.

While the crumples of linoleum are smoothed out due to its internal elasticity, in the nearest hardware store we will purchase a small tube of type “C” glue for sealing linoleum seams, the so-called “cold welding” for linoleum (not to be confused with “cold welding” for metal!). And a small can of PVA-based linoleum carpet glue (the most versatile type of glue).

Preliminarily, it is desirable to cut off the tattered edges of the torn-out piece with a clerical knife under the ruler, trying to cut as little as possible, that is, to remove exactly the uneven “bitten” pieces. Then, with a vacuum cleaner, we clean the dust and trimmings from the “wound” as best as possible.

Gently lubricate the floor with PVA-based glue, including under the main carpet as far as we can get it (a centimeter will be enough). It is not superfluous to lubricate the torn flap. After waiting about 10 minutes, we tightly press the torn corner, load it again for an hour and a half, until the PVA grabs. The amount of glue should be moderate, if pressing a piece you see that excess has come out of the seam, immediately remove it with a cloth swab, pressing it strongly against the seam.

We remove the load and fill the seam with “cold welding”. To do this, a thin tip is included with the tube. We place it in the seam and squeeze out the glue while moving it, so that the glue bead protrudes a little from the outside. After the glue polymerizes, cut off the protruding excess glue with a mounting knife. If everything is done carefully, the gap will hardly be noticeable.

Video (click to play).

Now let's look at how to repair linoleum with cuts and, most importantly, what to do if part of the coating is missing or irreversibly damaged (torn out, burned, melted with acid, etc.).

Repairing a linoleum floor, if cut through with a sharp object, is not difficult. The seam is filled with glue "C" type, as in the case described above. But if you have to completely change the damaged area, you have to tinker.

To replace the site, it is necessary, first of all, to take care of a piece of linoleum with a size slightly larger than the damaged one. It’s good if quite large trimmings have been preserved from the work on laying the floor from linoleum, but if not, you will have to make a visit to the hardware store, where you can choose the same linoleum, or as similar as possible in tone and pattern. The main thing is that the purchased linoleum is of the same thickness as the previously laid one.

We cut out a “patch” from the new piece, exceeding the replaced piece by two to three centimeters in size around the entire perimeter. At the same time, we combine the pattern of the main carpet and the patch. Now it's the turn of the most important operation.

We press the metal ruler from the side of the piece to be cut, and draw it with the blade of the mounting knife, slightly tilting it outward. We make such an incision on all four sides. The knife should cut through both the new “patch” and the old coating, while trying not to cut too much along the length. The cuts should not intersect, but converge at one point (Fig. 1).

We remove the cut piece and replace it with a new one, making sure that the replacement fits well, glue the patch in the same way as we glued the torn corner (lubricate with glue, load, fill the seam).

That's all. We told how to repair linoleum. It remains to be added that if a large area is damaged, its replacement should be carefully considered from the point of view of the expediency of this work. Perhaps it would be better not to repair the linoleum floor in the damaged area, but to prepare and change the coating immediately over the entire area.

And, of course, we are always happy to answer your questions! Send them by mail or post them in the comments!

Ask questions in the comments below or by mail. Subscribe to the newsletter. Good luck to you and good luck to your family!

Linoleum is one of the most popular floor coverings, which is used both in residential premises and in public places.

One of its disadvantages is that it does not have sufficient resistance to damage. Defects can occur due to improper preparation of the surface for laying the coating, with improper care or mechanical stress.

If a gap, swelling or hole has formed on the linoleum, there is no need to rush to change the flooring to a new one. You can easily repair linoleum with your own hands, following the recommendations described in this article.

Not everyone attaches importance to the preparation of the base for laying linoleum. If the flooring is laid on a base with a difference in the height of the slab of more than 2 mm, and there are also irregularities, this will lead to the formation of cracks during operation.

Many are in a hurry to finish the repair, lay the flooring on an incompletely dried screed. In this case, mold formation cannot be avoided.

When using low quality glue or non-compliance with the technology of its application, peeling of the coating is possible.

When linoleum is laid on a soft substrate, then furniture is placed on it without using foot pads, or walking on heels, which leads to the formation of dents and holes.

With improper care or cleaning with abrasive detergents, the top layer is gradually destroyed.

When eliminating defects, it is impossible to use methods and means that will lead to the destruction of the polyurethane protective layer.

For each type of damage, there are several ways to eliminate:

For each specific type of defect, it is necessary to select the most suitable recovery option. At the same time, we use tools adapted to work with a specific type of coating.

There are many products used for the care and repair of linoleum:

universal detergents and cleaners for everyday cleaning and stain removal;
polymer-based suspensions and mastics contribute to the renewal of the top layer of linoleum and prevent slipping;
glossy and matte polish - protects the flooring from abrasion;
to restore the upper protective layer, restoring emulsions made on the basis of modified polyurethane are used;
special concentrated formulations are used to remove stains.

To restore the appearance of the coating, it is not recommended to use gasoline, acetone and substances containing chlorine.

Consider how to repair linoleum with your own hands, if it has minor mechanical damage and abrasions.

Compositions for the repair of minor defects are discussed in the table:

Before proceeding with the repair, the coating must be cleaned of dust and degreased.

You can easily and quickly repair a small gap with cold welding adhesive.

We clean the place of the gap, very carefully clean it with sandpaper. Be careful not to touch the undamaged area.
We glue the edges of the cut to the floor with double-sided tape.
We distribute the glue along the length of the gap, we connect the edges together. Remove excess adhesive immediately. We protect the day from mechanical stress and moisture.
After the glue has hardened, we rub it with mastic, matched to the tone.

Stages of sealing linoleum by cold welding

To protect the coating from contamination, before applying the adhesive, we glue masking tape on a horizontal plane to the repair site.

The ease of eliminating the defect depends on the depth of damage to the linoleum.

A small spark destroys 1 or 2 top layers: protective and decorative.

Less commonly, the polyvinyl chloride base is destroyed or it burns through.

We select a piece of linoleum with the same pattern as in the place of the hole. We put it on top of the damaged area, cut out two layers at once a little wider than the defect.
We clean the edge, degrease, remove dust with a vacuum cleaner from under the coating.
We raise the flooring, glue the edge of the damaged area to the base.
We smear the patch with glue cold welding from the bottom and along the edges. We insert into the hole, press down. We install a heavy object at the place of repair of linoleum.

We also repair large ragged holes. If the gap has a smooth edge, we glue it according to the method of joining the joints. If the edge is torn, we select a patch from the remnants of linoleum with the same structure and pattern. For information on how to close a hole in the coating, see this video:

After repair, do not throw away the remnants of building materials, they can be useful for restoring damaged areas.

We eliminate puncture sites as soon as possible. Otherwise, when cleaning, water will get under the flooring, which can lead to the formation of mold or swelling of the flooring.

You will need: 5 parts of alcohol, 4 parts of castor oil, 20 parts of rosin, a pigment that matches the color. We mix the components.
You will need: 1 part rosin, 1 part thick turpentine, pigment. We mix.

You can restore linoleum immediately after preparing the composition.

You can glue the joints with your own hands in a "hot" and "cold" way.

Cold welding is carried out using a special adhesive composition. Thanks to its active ingredients, the surface dissolves a little at the edges, and then sticks firmly together. In this case, the material layers penetrate each other by 1–5 mm.

Step-by-step instructions for performing cold welding:

We combine two adjacent strips with an overlap of 3-6 mm.
We draw a straight line in the middle of the overlap.
Cut with a sharp knife along the marked border for the entire length of both strips. We put a metal bar under them to make it convenient to cut under a long metal ruler.
Throw away the cuttings. We glue masking tape along the entire length of the joint, cut it through the place of joining. The adhesive tape will protect the material from contamination with glue.
Using a thin tip or a glue gun, fill the joint with glue. Remove the tape after 15-30 minutes.

Hot welding requires a special tool

We perform hot welding using a polymer cord heated with a building hair dryer with a special nozzle.

We expand the joint to 5 mm.
We warm up the polymer cord, it becomes very plastic.
Quickly, so that it does not have time to cool, we put it inside the seam. Bonding of surfaces is carried out by vulcanization of the edges of the material, while the strips are soldered into one.

The hot method is more reliable than the cold method, but requires experience with a hair dryer and the presence of a tool.

The surface swells if the material is laid on an improperly prepared base or the installation technology is violated. For information on why the material swells and what to do about it, see this video:

If the coating has gone in waves over the entire area, you need to cut off the excess distance along the perimeter of the walls so that a temperature gap of 1 cm remains. Image - Do-it-yourself linoleum seam repair

Trim the cover on three sides

Step-by-step instructions for removing swelling:

We dismantle the plinth on three sides of the room, cut the linoleum.
We leave the flooring for several days so that it matures and straightens out.
Glue with glue or fix around the perimeter with skirting boards.

How to fix the coating if the waves formed in the center of the room is discussed in the table:

What to do if the linoleum is torn? Changing the coating is too troublesome, and expensive, but you can’t leave it with damage: not only does such a floor look sloppy, but also dirt will accumulate. The repair of the coating will help to solve the problem, and it will not require special costs, and the result will be excellent. Tears, burns, holes in the canvas, open seams - all this can be eliminated almost without a trace, and the floor will look like new again.

Consider how to seal linoleum, and what is needed for this.

The main tool in working with linoleum is a knife. It should be durable, very sharp, with a comfortable handle. Although linoleum is a rather thin and plastic material, it will take some effort to cut it, and it will not be possible to cut it quickly and accurately with a blunt knife. Now on sale there are special knives for linoleum, which are very convenient to work with.

In addition to the knife, you will also need:

spatula for applying glue;
metal ruler or rail;
marker;
roller

To seal large holes, you will need patches from linoleum of the same type that is laid on the floor. That is why it is recommended to purchase a new coating with a margin: the trimmings of the canvas do not take up much space, and in case of damage they will help to quietly patch holes. Separately, it is difficult to find exactly the same material: the assortment of linoleum is constantly changing, and even if it was possible to find a similar pattern, the samples may not match in color.

You will need pieces of linoleum from which you can make patches

To fix the patches and join the dispersed canvases, you will need adhesive tape (double-sided and ordinary masking tape) and glue.

Double-sided adhesive tape on a fabric basis

For such coatings, there are special adhesives - water-dispersion, acrylic-based, two-component epoxy resin, as well as "cold welding" adhesives.

To eliminate minor scratches, burns and punctures, mastic or polymer putty is used. In order for the repair composition to match the color of the coating, small crumbs scraped off from a piece of linoleum are added to it. Special repair kits are also available, consisting of mastic, solvent and color pigment. With the help of these tools, you can carefully repair small defects in linoleum so that no traces of damage remain.

This type of damage is the most serious, and therefore the repair will take longer. If a large hole has formed in the canvas, it is eliminated with a patch.

Step 1. Pick up a piece of linoleum for a patch. It should match perfectly in color and pattern so that the repaired area does not stand out on the floor. The segment is laid over the hole on the coating and the lines of the pattern are combined with the main canvas.

Pick up a piece of linoleum for a patch

The segment is laid over the hole

Step 2 The material is fixed with masking tape on all sides to avoid displacement. If the segment is small, it is enough to fix it with tape in the corners.

Then stick the tape around the perimeter

Step 3 They take a knife and very carefully cut both layers of linoleum along the lines of the picture. It is advisable to cut the patch in the shape of a square or rectangle - it is more convenient to fix it and the joints will not be noticeable.

cut through linoleum

Step 4 They remove the adhesive tape, remove the trimmings of linoleum, put the patch aside. Now it is necessary to remove the damaged piece of linoleum: it is hooked with a knife and opened from the base over the entire area.The remains of the adhesive layer are also cleaned so that they do not interfere with the adhesion of the canvas to the base.

Remove tape, patch and defective piece

Step 5 Next, take the glue and apply it in an even layer on the cleaned surface with a spatula. If the edges of the canvas around the cutout are not glued, it is also necessary to smear the surface under them with glue - this will allow the edges to be more securely fixed.

Step 6 After waiting a few minutes, a patch is placed on the glue and smoothed over the entire area so that there are no air bubbles under the linoleum. Make sure the patch is placed correctly and that all lines match.

Step 7 The glued piece is rolled with a roller for reliability, and then wiped with a clean, damp cloth, removing excess adhesive mixture.

Step 8 At the seams on each side of the patch, a docking adhesive is applied with a thin strip, the excess is removed. After the glue has set, the joints are wiped with a thick cloth or sponge.

Advice. During the day, mechanical impacts on the repaired area should be avoided until the glue is completely dry. After that, the coating is ready for full operation.

If instead of a hole on the linoleum there is a partially torn flap, you can do without a patch. To do this, the flap is first straightened (you can iron it with an iron through a dense fabric), dirt and dust are cleaned from under it, and then a layer of glue is applied to the base. After that, it remains to lay the flap on the glue, align the edges and press it with something heavy for a day.

Open joints are one of the most pressing problems for floors covered with linoleum.

Sometimes the edges of the canvases only slightly move away from the base, in other cases they noticeably swell and diverge to the sides, revealing the draft floor. You can’t start such a problem: garbage accumulates in the seams, water gets there during cleaning, mold starts, and the protruding edges are frayed and torn, making it difficult to walk around the room. Consider how to connect the joints with the greatest efficiency.

Step 1. The edges of the canvases are folded outward and all dust is thoroughly cleaned from under the coating.

The edges of the canvases are folded out

Step 2 Prime the floor with a small brush, leave to dry completely.

Step 3. Double-sided tape is placed in the gap between the canvases so that the middle of the tape is located exactly along the seam.

Double-sided tape is placed in the gap between the canvases.

Step 4 remove the protective layer from the adhesive surface and press the edges to the floor.

Step 5 Carefully straighten the edges, press and smooth the seam with your hands. Further, it is desirable to roll this section with a roller in order to finally align the joint.

If the linoleum sheets have shifted during operation, and the joint has moved apart by several millimeters, there is a simple and cheap way to eliminate the gap. To do this, it is necessary to clean the seam of dust, degrease, dry thoroughly. Next, you should take a wax candle, melt it and carefully pour the wax into the gap between the canvases. After that, the wax residues are easily removed with a spatula blade or knife, and the surface of the seam is polished with a soft cloth.

Advice. This method is only suitable for dry rooms with low traffic, since under intense load the wax will come off the edge of the canvas and a gap will form again.

For high-quality sealing of parted seams, it is best to use cold C-type welding. This adhesive has a thick consistency and perfectly fills joints up to 3 mm wide. In addition, it melts the sections of the canvases and forms a monolithic surface, impervious to moisture and dust. But for the new linoleum, they use A-type glue, which is more liquid and reacts faster with PVC. How to do this, consider in detail.

Step 1. The coating strips are laid on the prepared floor with an overlap of 5-6 cm.

Step 2 Mark the cut line exactly in the center of the overlap, measuring the desired distance with a ruler. The line is drawn with a pencil along the entire length of the joint.

Step 3 A ruler or a metal rail is applied to the markup and both canvases are cut with a sharp knife.

Apply a meter ruler

Cut through two blades in one motion

Step 4 Remove the cut strips to the side and smooth the edges of the canvases.

Step 5 Masking tape is glued to the joint along its entire length. This is necessary in order not to stain the front surface of the coating with glue.

Masking tape is glued to the joint

Step 6. With the tip of a knife, carefully cut the adhesive tape along the junction line.

Step 7 They take glue, put a cap with a needle on the tube, twist it tightly. Next, insert the tip of the needle into the gap and lightly press the tube until a spot of glue up to 4 mm wide is formed on the adhesive tape. After that, you need to smoothly move the needle along the seam, evenly filling it with adhesive.

Advice. The width of the adhesive strip during application should not exceed 3-4 mm. The excess glue will still have to be wiped off, and the seam will not be stronger from this. But it’s also not worth saving too much: a lack of glue will make the seam less airtight and reliable.

Step 8 After about 15 minutes, when the glue sets, the tape is carefully removed from the linoleum.

Remove tape after 15 minutes

You can walk on the coating after the glue has completely hardened. The manufacturer indicates the exact drying time in the instructions on the tube, so carefully read all the information about the composition before use.

The seam after cold welding is invisible

Often, blisters appear on the coating, which increase over time, interfere with walking, and then tear. This happens for various reasons, but it is necessary to eliminate such defects as early as possible so that the linoleum does not have to be changed.

Removing bubbles is easy, the main thing is to know how

Small bubbles can be easily removed with heat. You can use a household hair dryer or a bag of hot sand, but it is more convenient to use an iron. To do this, cover the problem area with a clean rag or a piece of parchment and smooth it with an iron in the steaming mode.

Hillock on linoleum is ironed

Large swellings are eliminated in a different way. A cruciform incision is made in the center of the bubble, after which the resulting flaps are folded together and the excess cut off at the edges. After making sure that all parts fit evenly, they are bent outward and the base is cleaned of old glue and dust. Now it remains only to apply fresh glue and press the patches to the floor. You can put some weight on top so that the linoleum sticks better.

If the linoleum was originally laid without glue, swelling can be eliminated without cutting the canvas. First you need to loosen the baseboards on the wall closest to the bubble. Next, the surface begins to smooth out towards the wall, expelling air from under the linoleum. If necessary, the edge of the canvas can be trimmed to leave a temperature gap between the wall and the floor.

It is convenient to smooth linoleum with a spatula

Replacing a damaged section of linoleum

Bloating linoleum: what to do?

Peeling corners and edges

No matter how high-quality or modern linoleum may be over time, with sufficiently intensive depreciation, it deteriorates: various cracks, tears, swelling, scuffs and other defects appear. But at any time you can repair linoleum with your own hands.Replacing linoleum consists of such stages as: cutting a piece of a new coating, preparing the base, removing minor damage.Replacing a damaged section of linoleum is the best way to get rid of defects in the coating.The scheme of cutting the edges of linoleum.Basically, the replacement consists of the following steps:

Cutting a piece of new cover for replacement.

Preparation of the base for laying a new element.

Removal of small damages on a surface.

So, the first stage is cutting a piece of a new coating for replacement.Flooring on a concrete screed.In building materials stores today you can find putties of any color, and therefore you can easily find the material you need for repairing linoleum with your own hands.In addition, such putty can be made at home. To make it, you need to take thickened turpentine, rosin and a dye that matches the color of your coating (turpentine - 4 parts, rosin - 1 part, the dye is added until the mass reaches the desired color).All these components are mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained, after which the damaged areas are smeared with it. When everything is dry, the treated surface is cleaned and polished.The scheme of laying linoleum tiles.There are damages that cannot be repaired either with patches or with putty. One of these defects is swelling.

Bloating is the most unpleasant defect in terms of the appearance of linoleum, but it is eliminated quite simply: you need to pierce the swollen area and squeeze all the air out of it.

Then you need to dilute the liquid glue, fill it with a syringe and use it to pour a sufficient amount of glue under the linoleum.

After the completion of these operations, plywood is placed on top, as in the case of patches, on which something heavy is placed, after a few days it can be removed. There are times when the entire coating swells, in which case nothing can be done, you will have to completely re-lay the linoleum.

The most common cause of swelling is improper waterproofing, and often, if it is done incorrectly, the entire linoleum will swell, and you have to remove it, redo the waterproofing and re-lay it all over again.Another defect that can occur during the operation of the coating in question and cannot be repaired with patches is drying out.

In this case, linoleum can be repaired as follows. If the cracks are small, then they can simply be filled with paraffin. Filling must be done so that a protruding seam is obtained. After cooling this seam, you need to take a blunt knife (so as not to cut the surface of the linoleum) and clean the flooded area. After that, the area is rubbed with a dry cloth.

Ways of laying linoleum.Another problem that may occur during the operation of linoleum is the peeling off of corners and edges and their bending. Do-it-yourself linoleum repair in this case is done using glue, which is obtained by dissolving packaging foam in acetone.

You need to take a small piece of foam, put it under the departed section of linoleum and drop a few drops of acetone evenly on it. After some time, the foam should completely melt, at this time you need to press the departed area into its place, and then put a load on it.

To date, the most modern is the technology of repairing linoleum using cold welding. There are different types of this material, some are for bonding freshly cut sections, and some for old material.

Welding for the repair of linoleum is distinguished by its high density. It can be used to fill both large and small cuts. However, with all the advantages of this technique, the material that has to be used is very dangerous. It is impossible that it gets on the skin: this can lead to detrimental consequences.

Laying and repairing linoleum is far from the easiest thing, as it might seem at first glance. Sometimes it is better to turn to a knowledgeable person: he will apply his skills, and the work will be done efficiently.

Floor PVC or natural roll coverings look presentable and are characterized by good resistance to compressive and abrasion loads. But in case of violation of the conditions of laying and operation, it is easy to make a hole in linoleum or a cut, burn it or even “decorate” it with hard-to-remove stains. Any defects can be dealt with at home with your own hands.

For the home, most often, buyers choose inexpensive household or semi-commercial series 21-23 and 31 wear resistance classes. Although linoleum belongs to elastic floor materials, the surface of natural and PVC products is sufficiently resistant to abrasive effects, and some collections can even withstand furniture rollers, sharp heels of women's shoes and animal claws.

But, unfortunately, buyers do not always listen to the recommendations of manufacturers, or do not have financial capabilities. Therefore, a coating that does not correspond to the load class of the room is chosen. For example, for a corridor or a kitchen in a house with small children and pets, class 21 economy series are purchased. Or even worse - due to the limited budget in schools and kindergartens, material of 21-22 categories from the household series is laid on the floor with the lowest possible protective layer. And do not be surprised that the linoleum broke so quickly, gathered "accordion" or lost its gloss. For such rather harsh conditions, completely different coatings are intended - from class 31 and above.

Blaming manufacturers for the manufacture of low-quality floor products, buyers forget about another important factor - proper installation. Factories Tarkett, DWL, Juteks, Grabo, Forbo and others strongly recommend that you carefully read the instructions before installing the coating. It states in black and white that:

The base must be perfectly level.

You can correct installation errors, but you will have to work hard - dismantle the flooring, level the surface, etc.
DO NOT lay on the basis of no substrate materials for insulation, soundproofing, creating a soft layer, etc. To effectively reduce the level of impact noise between the coating and the sound-dissipating layer, there must be a massive layer - a wet screed with a minimum thickness of 4 cm or a dry team of durable sheets of GVL, chipboard (according to the technical album of Knauf or Rockwool solutions).

Video (click to play).

For thermal insulation of a concrete base, you can arrange floor heating or lay any sheet material with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity (edged board, plywood, chipboard, OSB). The formation of a soft floor covering is an irrational solution. If only because a kind of backlash is formed, due to which, when furniture is installed or walking, the finishing material is pressed through, a cut or torn area easily appears. Remember the simple rules: the foundation must be solid, even and strong.

Coating is both natural and PVC is necessary stick to the base. This process is carried out using water-dispersion adhesive compositions or using universal mastics. In extreme cases, you can carefully smooth the canvas and fix it with double tape.

seams between canvases to fix. Can be glued using cold welding compounds or pressed with metal joints, PVC thresholds.Read more here.

Means for fixing seams.

If mistakes are made, and the surface of the linoleum is damaged, then do not despair. With the desire and some skill, almost any defect can be corrected.

One of the characteristics of rolled marmoleum and PVC coating is partial maintainability. This means that, for example, a small cut or swelling is easy to repair - it is enough to carefully seal the torn linoleum using special compounds. But the burnt area and other types of holes are more difficult to eliminate. We will tell about everything in order below.

Such contaminants are classified as complex, therefore, special household chemicals are used to remove them. For example, Forbo and Wicanders have a whole series of products for the care, cleaning and protection of natural surfaces (marmoleum, cork, parquet). And Dr. Schutz, InterChem and Tarkett produce professional cleaning and maintenance chemicals for vinyl flooring. Including:

universal cleaners for daily cleaning and deep cleaning (concentrates and ready-made);
special cleaning pastes for stubborn dirt;
protective polishes on a polymeric and oil basis;
restorative dispersions based on polyurethane or methyl polyacrylate resins (for restoring transparency or protective lacquer coating);
various mastics and renewing emulsions with the effect of anti-slip, giving a glossy shine, etc .;
concentrates for intensive cleaning of traces of pencils, ink, permanent markers, solutions of iodine and brilliant green, paints and varnishes, rubber, oil products, etc.

Professional line of linoleum care products.

Advice! For cleaning PVC roll coatings, marmoleum and cork, it is not recommended to use products containing chlorine, abrasive powder cleaners, solvents and petroleum products.

Of course, this list is far from complete. The range is huge, so choosing the right one is not difficult. But you should not listen to the advice of unfortunate masters and worsen the condition of the coating with sandpaper, abrasive powders. It will not restore a burnt or contaminated area. On the contrary, the wear-resistant top layer will be removed, and the defective area will be irretrievably damaged.

What to do if by negligence cut or torn linoleum? Everything is very simple - fix it by gluing using PVA or "cold welding". The latter is a series of adhesive polymer compounds that not only connect, but fuse parts of the web, forming a strong, almost invisible seam. Available in three variations:

Type A - repair compound for homogeneous and heterogeneous PVC coatings, connected without gaps.
Type T is a pasty mass used for felt-based products.
Type C is a thick adhesive that allows you to both glue the sheets closely and with a gap up to 4 mm wide.

Varieties of glue "cold welding".

In order to glue the parts as accurately as possible, special needle-shaped tips with a standard or C-, T-shaped nozzle are included with the adhesive tube.

"Cold welding" refers to low-toxic and flammable building materials, so you need to work with it carefully, preferably using personal protective equipment (glasses, gloves)

Before work, the glued elements of linoleum must be cleaned of dirt, mastic residues, torn felt or pieces of foam base, dust. If there are recesses in the base, they must be filled with quick-drying cement and vacuumed. Protect the cut or torn canvas from excess glue protruding to the surface with a piece of masking tape, insert a needle into the joint or puncture and squeeze out a little adhesive mass and leave to dry. After a few hours (the exact period is indicated in the instructions), you can load the coating as usual.

Wave-like swellings on the surface almost always appear due to incorrect, glueless installation. Less often - due to the increased humidity of the base (dampness, etc.). In the first case, you need to remove the furniture from the room, remove the baseboards, heat the linoleum with a building hair dryer and smooth it thoroughly. It is advisable to load the surface for several days in order to fix the coating in the desired position.

But dampness and its consequences will have to be dealt with seriously. First you need to eliminate the source of high humidity, dry the base, if possible, waterproof. Only after that it is possible to lay linoleum using adhesive compounds.

Locally swollen areas can be eliminated with PVA glue or “cold welding”: we pierce the bubble or make a cross-shaped incision, introduce the composition under the canvas and glue the linoleum to the base.

The "raised" edges of linoleum are easily repaired with the same adhesives - welding or polyvinyl acetate. But you need to strictly follow the instructions.

If the joints in the doorways or in the middle of the room have diverged by more than 4 mm, the edges are frayed, then it is better to use metal or PVC thresholds to connect them. The range of products is wide: with open or hidden fasteners, painted with a polymer powder composition or laminated to match the color and texture of linoleum. Picking the right one, we believe, will not be difficult.

In this case, a local replacement of the damaged piece is carried out. To do this, a section of the coating is selected, if possible, of the same color and design. The defective area is removed, the remnants of old glue or mastic are cleaned off the base, if necessary, alignment, cleaning from dust and dirt is carried out. Next, a fresh adhesive composition is applied with a brush to the base floor, a patch is inserted, and carefully smoothed. You can put the load on the surface for several days.