DIY linoleum seam repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of linoleum seams from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

P With all the high reliability of the linoleum coating, sometimes, unfortunately, you still have to look for information on how to repair linoleum. This page will give you answers to most of the questions related to the repair of linoleum floor.

The most common type of damage is when (for example, moving furniture) a piece is pulled out of the covering and the gap is shaped like an angle. In this case, one side of the torn triangle continues to connect to the main carpet. Usually, such damage is accompanied by more or less significant crushing of the coating.

If such a case occurs after completing the work that caused the damage, you should not postpone the repair of the torn floor. Immediately lay the torn off corner, if possible, in its previous position, cover it with a flat board (or at least a book with a thick cardboard cover), and load it well with something on top.

While the crumples of the linoleum are smoothed out due to its internal elasticity, in the nearest hardware store we will buy a small tube of "C" type glue for sealing linoleum seams, the so-called "cold welding" for linoleum (not to be confused with "cold welding" for metal!). And a small can of PVA-based linoleum carpet glue (the most versatile type of glue).

Preliminarily, it is advisable to cut off the tousled edges of the torn piece with a clerical knife under a ruler, trying to cut as little as possible, that is, to remove exactly the uneven "nibbled" pieces. Then, with a vacuum cleaner, we clean the dust and scraps from the "wound" as best as possible.

Gently grease the floor with PVA-based glue, including under the main carpet as far as you can reach (a centimeter will be enough). It is not superfluous to lubricate the torn off flap. After waiting for about 10 minutes, we firmly press the torn corner, again load it for an hour and a half, until the PVA grabs. The amount of glue should be moderate, if pressing the piece you see that the excess has come out of the seam, immediately remove them with a cloth swab, pressing it strongly against the seam.

Remove the load and fill the seam with "cold welding". For this, a thin tip is included with the tube. We place it in the seam and squeeze out the glue while moving it, so that the bead of glue protrudes slightly from the outside. After the glue has polymerized, cut off the excess glue with a mounting knife. If everything is done carefully, the gap will practically not be noticeable.

Video (click to play).

Now we will consider how to repair linoleum with cuts and, most importantly, what to do if part of the coating is missing or irreversibly damaged (torn out, burned through, melted by acid, etc.).

Repairing a linoleum floor, if it is cut with a sharp object, is not difficult. The seam is filled with "C" type glue, as in the case described above. But if you have to completely change the damaged area, you will have to tinker.

To replace the site, it is necessary, first of all, to take care of a piece of linoleum slightly larger than the damaged one. It is good if sufficiently large scraps have been preserved from the work on laying the linoleum floor, but if not, you will have to make a visit to the hardware store, where you can choose the same linoleum, or the most similar in tone and pattern. The main thing is that the purchased linoleum is of the same thickness with the previously laid.

Cut out a patch from a new piece that is two to three centimeters larger than the piece to be replaced along the entire perimeter. At the same time, we combine the drawing of the main carpet and the patch. Now it is the turn of the most important operation.

We press the metal ruler from the side of the cut out piece, and draw it with the blade of the assembly knife, slightly tilting it outward. We make such an incision on all four sides. The knife should cut through both the new "patch" and the old coating, while trying not to cut the excess along the length. The cuts should not intersect, but converge at one point (Fig. 1).

We remove the cut piece and replace it with a new one, making sure that the replacement fits well, glue the patch in the same way as the torn corner was glued (grease with glue, load, fill the seam).

That's all. We told how to repair linoleum. It remains to add, if a large area is damaged, its replacement should be carefully considered from the point of view of the feasibility of this work. It may be better not to repair the linoleum floor in the damaged area, but prepare and change the coating over the entire area at once.

And, of course, we will always be happy to answer your questions! Send them by mail or post them in the comments!

Ask questions in the comments below or by mail. Subscribe to the newsletter. Good luck to you, and good to your family!

Linoleum is one of the most popular floor coverings that are used both in residential premises and in public places.

One of its disadvantages is that it does not have sufficient resistance to damage. Defects can occur due to improper surface preparation for laying the coating, improper care or mechanical stress.

If a rupture, swelling or hole has formed on the linoleum, there is no need to rush to change the flooring to a new one. It is quite easy to repair linoleum with your own hands, following the recommendations described in this article.

Not everyone attaches importance to the preparation of the base for laying linoleum. If the floor covering is laid on a base that has a slab height difference of more than 2 mm, and there are still irregularities, this will lead to the formation of cracks during operation.

Many are in a hurry to complete the repair, laying the flooring on an incompletely dried screed. In this case, the formation of mold cannot be avoided.

When using low quality glue or non-compliance with the technology of its application, the coating may peel off.

When linoleum is laid on a soft substrate, then furniture is placed on it without using pads under the legs, or they walk on heels, which leads to the formation of dents and holes.

Improper care or cleaning with abrasive detergents will gradually erode the top layer.

When eliminating defects, methods and means must not be used that will lead to the destruction of the polyurethane protective layer.

There are several remedies for each type of damage:

For each specific type of defect, you need to select the most suitable recovery option. At the same time, we use tools adapted to work with a specific type of coating.

There are many products available that are used for the care and repair of linoleum:

universal detergents and cleaners for everyday cleaning and stain removal;
suspensions and mastics on a polymer basis contribute to the renewal of the top layer of linoleum and prevent slipping;
glossy and matte polish - protects the flooring from abrasion;
to restore the upper protective layer, restoring emulsions made on the basis of modified polyurethane are used;
special concentrated formulations are used to remove stains.

To restore the appearance of the coating, it is not recommended to use gasoline, acetone and substances containing chlorine.

Consider how to repair linoleum with your own hands if it has minor mechanical damage and abrasions.

Compositions for repairing minor defects are discussed in the table:

Before proceeding with the repair, the coating must be cleaned of dust and degreased.

A small gap can be easily and quickly closed with cold welding glue.

We clean the place of the gap, very carefully we clean it with sandpaper. We make sure not to touch the undamaged area.
We glue the edges of the cut to the floor with double-sided tape.
We distribute the glue along the length of the gap, connect the edges together. Remove excess adhesive immediately. We protect the day from mechanical stress and moisture.
After the glue has hardened, we rub it with mastic, matched to the tone.

Stages of gluing linoleum with cold welding

To protect the coating from contamination, before applying the glue, we glue masking tape horizontally to the repair site.

The ease of eliminating the defect depends on the depth of damage to the linoleum.

A small spark destroys 1 or 2 top layers: protective and decorative.

Less often, the polyvinyl chloride base is destroyed or burned through.

We select a piece of linoleum with the same pattern as in the place of the hole. We put it on top of the damaged area, cut out two layers at once a little wider than the place of the defect.
We clean the edge, degrease, remove dust with a vacuum cleaner from under the coating.
Raise the flooring, glue the edge of the damaged area to the base.
We smear the patch with cold welding glue from the bottom and along the edges. We insert into the hole, press down. We install a heavy object in place of linoleum repair.

We also repair large torn holes. If the gap has an even edge, we glue it using the method of joining joints. If the edge is torn, select a patch from the remnants of linoleum with the same structure and pattern. For information on how to patch a hole in the coating, see this video:

After the repair, you should not throw away the remnants of building materials, they can be useful for restoring damaged areas.

We fix puncture points as soon as possible. Otherwise, water will enter under the flooring during cleaning, which can lead to mold formation or blistering of the flooring.

You will need: 5 parts of alcohol, 4 parts of castor oil, 20 parts of rosin, a pigment that matches the color. Mix the components.
You will need: 1 part rosin, 1 part thick turpentine, pigment. We mix.

You can restore linoleum immediately after preparing the composition.

You can glue the joints with your own hands in a "hot" and "cold" way.

Cold welding is carried out using a special adhesive. Thanks to its active components, the surface at the edges dissolves a little and then adheres tightly. In this case, the layers of material penetrate each other by 1-5 mm.

Step-by-step instructions for performing cold welding:

We combine two adjacent strips with an overlap of 3-6 mm.
Draw a straight line in the middle of the overlap.
We cut with a sharp knife along the marked border for the entire length of both strips. We put a metal bar under them so that it is convenient to cut under a long metal ruler.
Throw away the trimmings. We glue masking tape along the entire length of the joint, cut it at the joint. The tape will protect the material from glue contamination.
Using a fine tip or a glue gun, fill the joint with glue. After 15-30 minutes, remove the tape.

For hot welding, you need a special tool

We perform hot welding using a polymer cord heated with a construction hairdryer with a special nozzle.

We expand the joint to 5 mm.
We warm up the polymer cord, it becomes very plastic.
Quickly, so that it does not have time to cool down, we put it inside the seam. The gluing of surfaces is carried out by vulcanizing the edges of the material, while the strips are soldered into one piece.

The hot method is more reliable than the cold method, but requires experience with a hairdryer and a tool.

The surface swells if the material is laid on an improperly prepared base or if the installation technology is violated. For information on why the material is bloated and what to do about it, see this video:

If the coating has gone in waves over the entire area, you need to cut off the excess distance along the perimeter of the walls so that a temperature gap of 1 cm remains. Image - DIY repair of linoleum seams

Trim the cover on three sides

Step-by-step instructions for removing bloat:

We dismantle the baseboards on three sides of the room, cut the linoleum.
We leave the flooring for a few days, so that it stretches and straightens out.
We glue it with glue or fix it around the perimeter with skirting boards.

How to repair the coating if waves have formed in the center of the room is discussed in the table:

What to do if the linoleum is torn? It is too troublesome to change the coating, and it is expensive, but you cannot leave it damaged either: not only does such a floor look sloppy, it will also get dirty. Repairing the coating will help to solve the problem, and it does not require special costs, and the result will be excellent. Tears, burns, holes in the canvas, loose seams - all this can be eliminated almost without leaving a trace, and the floor will look like new again.

Consider how to glue linoleum, and what is needed for this.

The main tool in working with linoleum is a knife. It should be strong, very sharp, with a comfortable grip. Although linoleum is a fairly thin and plastic material, certain efforts will be required to cut it, and it will not be possible to cut quickly and accurately with a blunt knife. Now on sale there are special knives for linoleum, which are very convenient to work with.

In addition to the knife, you will also need:

spatula for applying glue;
metal ruler or rail;
marker;
roller.

To seal large holes, you will need linoleum patches of the same type that are laid on the floor. That is why it is recommended to purchase a new coating with a margin: trimming the canvas does not take up a lot of space, and in case of damage, they will help to patch holes imperceptibly. It is difficult to find the exact same material separately: the assortment of linoleum is constantly changing, and even if it was possible to find a similar pattern, the samples may not match in color.

You will need pieces of linoleum from which you can make patches

To fix the patches and join the dispersed canvases, you will need adhesive tape (double-sided and regular paint) and glue.

Fabric-backed double-sided tape

There are special adhesives for such coatings - water-dispersion, acrylic-based, two-component epoxy-based, as well as cold welding adhesives.

To eliminate minor scratches, burns and punctures, mastic or polymer putty is used. In order for the repair composition to match the color of the coating, small crumbs scraped off a piece of linoleum are added to it. Also, special repair kits are produced, consisting of mastic, solvent and colored pigment. With the help of these tools, you can carefully repair small defects on the linoleum so that there are no signs of damage left.

This type of damage is the most serious, and therefore repairs will take longer. If a large hole has formed in the canvas, fix it with a patch.

Step 1. Pick up a piece of linoleum for the patch. It should be perfectly matched in color and pattern so that the renovated area does not stand out on the floor. The piece is laid on top of the hole on the coating and the lines of the pattern are aligned with the main canvas.

Pick up a piece of linoleum for a patch

The piece is laid over the hole

Step 2. The material is fixed with masking tape on all sides to avoid displacement. If the segment is small, it is enough to fix it with tape in the corners.

Then stick the tape around the perimeter

Step 3. They take a knife and very carefully cut through both layers of linoleum along the lines of the drawing. It is advisable to cut out the patch in the form of a square or rectangle - it is more convenient to fasten it this way and the joints will not be noticeable.

Cut right through the linoleum

Step 4. Remove the scotch tape, remove the linoleum scraps, put the patch aside. Now you need to remove the damaged piece of linoleum: they pry it off with a knife and open it from the base over the entire area.The remnants of the adhesive layer are also cleaned so that they do not interfere with the adhesion of the canvas to the base.

Remove the tape, patch and defective piece

Step 5. Next, take the glue and apply it in an even layer on the cleaned surface with a spatula. If the edges of the canvas around the cutout are not glued, it is also necessary to coat the surface with glue under them - this will allow you to more securely fix the edges.

Step 6. After waiting a few minutes, a patch is placed on the glue and thoroughly smoothed over the entire area so that there are no air bubbles left under the linoleum. Make sure the patch is placed correctly and all the lines are aligned.

Step 7. The glued piece is rolled with a roller for reliability, and then wiped with a clean damp cloth, removing excess adhesive mixture.

Step 8. At the seams on each side of the patch, docking glue is applied with a thin strip, the excess is removed. After the glue has set, the joints are wiped with a thick cloth or sponge.

Advice. During the day, mechanical stress on the repaired area should be avoided until the glue is completely dry. After that, the coating is ready for full use.

If, instead of a hole on the linoleum, there is a partially torn flap, you can do without a patch. To do this, the flap is first straightened (you can iron it with an iron through a thick cloth), clean out dirt and dust from under it, and then apply a layer of glue to the base. After that, it remains to lay the flap on the glue, align the edges and press with something heavy for a day.

Broken joints are one of the most pressing problems for linoleum-covered floors.

Sometimes the edges of the canvases only slightly move away from the base, in other cases they noticeably swell and diverge to the sides, revealing the rough floor. You cannot start such a problem: debris accumulates in the seams, water gets there during cleaning, mold starts, and the protruding edges get disheveled and torn, making it difficult to walk around the room. Let's consider how to connect the joints with the greatest efficiency.

Step 1. The edges of the canvases are folded outward and thoroughly clean all the dust from under the coating.

The edges of the canvases are bent outward

Step 2. Priming the floor with a small brush, leave to dry completely.

Step 3... Double-sided tape is placed in the gap between the canvases so that the middle of the tape is located exactly along the seam.

Double-sided tape is placed in the gap between the canvases.

Step 4. remove the protective layer from the adhesive surface and press the edges to the floor.

Step 5. Carefully straighten the edges, press and smooth the seam with your hands. Further, it is advisable to roll this section with a roller in order to finally align the joint.

If the linoleum canvases have shifted during operation, and the joint has dispersed by a few millimeters, there is a simple and cheap way to eliminate the gap. To do this, it is necessary to clean the seam from dust, degrease, dry thoroughly. Next, you should take a wax candle, melt it and carefully pour the wax into the gap between the canvases. After that, the remaining wax is easily removed with a spatula blade or knife, and the seam surface is polished with a soft cloth.

Advice. This method is only suitable for dry rooms with low traffic, since under heavy load the wax will tear off the edge of the canvas and a gap will form again.

It is best to use cold C-welding for good sealing of loose seams. This adhesive has a thick consistency and perfectly fills joints up to 3 mm wide. In addition, it melts the sections of the sheets and forms a monolithic surface that is impervious to moisture and dust. But for new linoleum, A-type glue is used, which is more liquid and reacts faster with PVC. We will consider in detail how to do this.

Step 1. Covering strips are laid on the prepared floor with an overlap of 5-6 cm.

Step 2. Mark the cut line exactly in the center of the overlap, measuring the desired distance with a ruler. A line is drawn with a pencil along the entire length of the joint.

Step 3. A ruler or a metal rail is applied to the marking and both canvases are cut with a sharp knife.

Apply a meter ruler

Cut through two canvases in one go

Step 4. The cut strips are removed to the side and the edges of the canvases are smoothed.

Step 5. Masking tape is glued to the joint along its entire length. This is necessary in order not to stain the front surface of the coating with glue.

Masking tape is glued to the joint

Step 6... With the edge of a knife, carefully cut the tape along the seam line.

Step 7. They take glue, put a cap with a needle on the tube, screw it tightly. Next, insert the tip of the needle into the gap and lightly press the tube until a spot of glue up to 4 mm wide is formed on the tape. After that, you need to smoothly move the needle along the seam, evenly filling it with adhesive.

Advice. The width of the adhesive strip during application should not exceed 3-4 mm. The excess glue will still have to be wiped off, and this will not make the seam stronger. But it is also not worth saving too much: the lack of glue will make the seam less tight and reliable.

Step 8. After 15 minutes, when the glue has set, the tape is carefully removed from the linoleum.

After 15 minutes, remove the tape

You can walk on the coating after the glue has completely hardened. The manufacturer indicates the exact drying time in the instructions on the tube, so carefully read all the information on the composition before use.

The seam after cold welding is invisible

Often, swellings appear on the coating, which increase over time, interfere with walking, and then tear. This happens for various reasons, but it is necessary to eliminate such defects as early as possible so that you do not have to change the linoleum.

Removing bubbles is easy, the main thing is to know how

Small bubbles can be easily removed with heat. You can use a household hair dryer or a bag of hot sand, but it is more convenient to use an iron. To do this, cover the problem area with a clean cloth or a piece of parchment and smooth it out with an iron in steaming mode.

The hillock on the linoleum is ironed with an iron

Large bumps are handled differently. A cruciform incision is made in the center of the bladder, after which the resulting flaps are folded together and the excess is cut off at the edges. After making sure that all parts fit evenly, they are bent outward and the base is cleaned of old glue and dust. Now all that remains is to apply fresh glue and press the patches to the floor. You can put some kind of weight on top so that the linoleum sticks better.

If the linoleum was originally laid without glue, you can eliminate the swelling without cutting the canvas. First you need to loosen the baseboards against the wall closest to the bubble. Next, they begin to smooth the surface towards the wall, expelling the air from under the linoleum. If necessary, the edge of the canvas can be trimmed to leave a temperature gap between the wall and the floor.

It is convenient to smooth linoleum with a spatula

Replacing the damaged area of linoleum

Bloating linoleum: what to do?

Peeling off corners and edges

No matter how high-quality or modern linoleum may be over time, with sufficiently intensive depreciation, it deteriorates: various cracks, tears, swelling, abrasions and other defects appear. But at any time you can make repairs to linoleum with your own hands.Replacing linoleum consists of such steps as: cutting out a piece of a new coating, preparing the base, removing minor damage.Replacing a damaged area of linoleum is the best way to get rid of defects in the coating.Scheme for trimming the edges of linoleum.Basically, the replacement consists of such steps as:

Cutting out a piece of the new cover for replacement.

Preparation of the base for laying the new element.

Removal of minor damage on the surface.

So, the first step is cutting out a piece of the new coating for replacement.Concrete screed flooring.In building materials stores today you can find putties of any color, and therefore you can easily find the material you need for repairing linoleum with your own hands.In addition, this putty can be made at home. To make it, you need to take thickened turpentine, rosin and a dye that matches the color of your coating (turpentine - 4 parts, rosin - 1 part, the dye is added until the mass acquires the required color).All these components are mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained, after which the damaged areas are covered with it. When everything is dry, the treated surface is smoothed and sanded.Laying scheme for linoleum tiles.There are damages that cannot be repaired either with patches or with putty. Bloating is one of these defects.

Bloating is the most unpleasant defect in terms of the appearance of linoleum, but it can be eliminated quite simply: you need to pierce the swollen area and squeeze all the air out of it.

Then you need to dilute the liquid glue, fill a syringe with it and use it to pour a sufficient amount of glue under the linoleum.

After the end of these operations, plywood is placed on top, as in the case of patches, on which something heavy is placed, after a few days you can remove it. There are times when the entire coating swells, in this case nothing can be done, you will have to completely remodel the linoleum.

The most common cause of swelling is improper waterproofing, and often, if done incorrectly, the entire linoleum swells, and you have to remove it, redo the waterproofing and rebuild it all over again.Another defect that may arise during the operation of the coating in question and that cannot be repaired with patches is drying out.

In this case, you can repair linoleum as follows. If the cracks are small, then they can simply be filled with paraffin. The filling must be done so that a protruding seam is obtained. After this seam cools down, you need to take a blunt knife (so as not to cut the surface of the linoleum) and clean the flooded area. After that, the area is rubbed with a dry cloth.

Methods for laying linoleum.Another problem that can occur when using linoleum is peeling off corners and edges and bending them. Do-it-yourself linoleum repair in this case is done using glue, which is obtained by dissolving packaging foam in acetone.

You need to take a small piece of polystyrene, put it under the departed area of linoleum and drop a few drops of acetone evenly on it. After a while, the foam should completely melt, at this time you need to press the departed area in its place, and then put a load on it.

To date, the most modern technology is the repair of linoleum using cold welding. There are different types of this material, some for bonding freshly cut areas and some for old material.

Welding for repairing linoleum is distinguished by its great density. It can be used to fill in both large and small cuts. However, with all the advantages of this technique, the material that has to be used is very dangerous. It is impossible for it to come into contact with the skin: this can lead to harmful consequences.

Laying and repairing linoleum is far from the easiest thing, as it might seem at first glance. Sometimes it is better to turn to a knowledgeable person: he will apply his skills, and the work will be done with high quality.

PVC flooring or natural roll coverings look presentable and are characterized by good resistance to compression and abrasion loads. But if the conditions of installation and operation are violated, it is not difficult to make a hole in the linoleum or a cut, burn through or even “decorate” it with stubborn stains. You can deal with any defects at home with your own hands.

For home, most often buyers choose inexpensive household or semi-commercial series 21-23 and 31 classes of wear resistance. Although linoleum belongs to elastic flooring materials, the surface of natural and PVC products is quite resistant to abrasion, and some collections even withstand furniture casters, sharp heels of women's shoes and animal claws.

But, unfortunately, buyers do not always heed the recommendations of manufacturers, or do not have the financial capacity. Therefore, a covering that does not correspond to the load class of the room is chosen. For example, for a corridor or a kitchen in a house with small children and pets, an economy series of 21 classes is purchased. Or even worse - due to a limited budget, in schools and kindergartens, material of 21-22 categories from the household series is laid on the floor with the minimum possible protective layer. And do not be surprised that the linoleum tore so quickly, gathered like an "accordion" or lost its gloss. For such rather harsh conditions, completely different coatings are intended - from class 31 and above.

Blaming the manufacturers for the manufacture of low-quality floor products, buyers forget about another important factor - the correct installation. Plants Tarkett, DWL, Juteks, Grabo, Forbo and others strongly recommend that you carefully read the instructions before installing the coating. It states in black and white that:

The base must be perfectly flat

It is possible to correct installation errors, but you will have to work hard - dismantle the flooring, level the surface, etc.
DO NOT lay on the basis of no backing materials for insulation, sound insulation, creating a soft layer, etc. To effectively reduce the level of impact noise between the coating and the sound-scattering layer, there must be a massive layer - a wet screed with a thickness of at least 4 cm or a dry prefabricated made of durable sheets of gypsum fiber board, chipboard (according to the technical album of Knauf or Rockwool solutions).

Video (click to play).

For thermal insulation of a concrete base, you can arrange floor heating or lay any sheet material with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity (edged board, plywood, chipboard, OSB). The formation of a soft floor covering is an irrational decision. If only because a kind of backlash is formed, due to which, when installing furniture or walking, the finishing material is pressed through, a cut or torn area easily appears. Remember the simple rules: the base must be firm, even and solid.

Covering both natural and PVC is required glue to the base... This process is carried out using water-dispersion adhesives or using universal mastics. As a last resort, you can carefully smooth the canvas and fix it with double tape.

Seams between canvases it is necessary anchor... Can be glued using cold welding compounds or pressed with metal joints, PVC thresholds. Read more here.

Means for fixing seams.

If mistakes are made, and the surface of the linoleum is damaged, then you should not despair. With a little skill and desire, almost any defect can be corrected.

One of the characteristics of rolled marmoleum and PVC coating is partial maintainability. This means that, for example, a small incision or swelling is easy to repair - it is enough to carefully glue the torn linoleum with the help of special compounds. But the burned-out area and other types of holes are more difficult to eliminate. We will tell you about everything in order below.

Such contaminants are classified as complex, therefore, special household chemicals are used to remove them. Forbo and Wicanders, for example, have a whole series of products for the care, cleaning and protection of natural surfaces (marmoleum, cork, parquet). And Dr. Schutz, InterChem and Tarkett produce professional cleaning and care chemicals for vinyl flooring. Including:

universal cleaners for daily cleaning and deep cleaning (concentrates and ready-made);
special cleansing pastes for stubborn dirt;
protective polishes on polymer and oil base;
restoration dispersions based on polyurethane or methyl polyacrylate resins (to restore transparency or protective varnish);
various mastics and emulsions renewing with anti-slip effect, giving a glossy shine, etc .;
concentrates for intensive cleaning from traces of pencils, ink, permanent markers, iodine and brilliant green solutions, paints and varnishes, rubber, oil products, etc.

Professional series of linoleum care products.

Advice! It is not recommended to use chlorine-containing products, abrasive powder cleaners, solvents and petroleum products for cleaning roll PVC coatings, marmoleum and cork.

Of course, this list is far from complete. The assortment is huge, so choosing the right one is not difficult. But it is not worth listening to the advice of would-be masters and deteriorating the condition of the coating by means of sandpaper, abrasive powders. It will not repair a burned or contaminated area. On the contrary, the wear-resistant top layer will be removed, and the defective area will be irretrievably damaged.

What to do if linoleum is cut or torn by negligence? Everything is very simple - fix it by gluing using PVA or "cold welding". The latter is a series of adhesive polymer compositions that do not just connect, but fuse parts of the web, forming a strong, almost invisible seam. Available in three variations:

Type A - repair compound for homogeneous and heterogeneous PVC coatings, connected without gaps.
Type T - pasty mass used for felt-based products.
Type C is a thick glue that allows you to glue the canvases close together, and with a gap of up to 4 mm wide.

Varieties of cold welding glue.

To glue the parts as accurately as possible, special tips in the form of a needle with a standard or C-, T-shaped nozzle are included in the kit with the adhesive tube.

"Cold welding" refers to low-toxic and flammable building materials, so you need to work with it carefully, preferably using personal protective equipment (glasses, gloves)

Before work, the linoleum elements to be glued must be cleaned of dirt, mastic residues, torn felt or pieces of a foamed base, dust. If there are recesses in the base, they must be filled with quick-drying cement, vacuumed. Protect the cut or torn cloth from excess glue protruding onto the surface with a piece of masking tape, insert a needle into the joint or puncture and squeeze out a little adhesive mass and leave to dry. After a few hours (the exact period is indicated in the instructions), you can load the coating as usual.

Wavy bulges on the surface almost always appear due to improper, glueless styling. Less often - due to high moisture content of the substrate (dampness, etc.). In the first case, you need to remove the furniture from the room, remove the baseboards, warm up the linoleum with a construction hairdryer and carefully smooth it out. It is advisable to load the surface for several days in order to fix the coating in the desired position.

But dampness and its consequences will have to be fought seriously. First you need to eliminate the source of high humidity, dry the base, waterproof it if possible. Only then can linoleum be laid using adhesives.

Locally swollen areas can be eliminated with PVA glue or "cold welding": pierce the bubble or make a cross-shaped incision, introduce the composition under the canvas and glue the linoleum to the base.

"Raised" edges of linoleum can be easily repaired with the same adhesives - welding or polyvinyl acetate. But you need to strictly follow the instructions.

If the joints in doorways or in the middle of the room are more than 4 mm apart, the edges frayed, then it is better to use metal or PVC thresholds to join them. The range of products is wide: with open or hidden fasteners, painted with polymer powder or laminated to match the color and texture of linoleum. We believe it will not be difficult to find the right one.

In this case, a local replacement of the damaged piece is carried out. For this, a cut of the coating is selected, if possible, of the same color and design. The defective area is removed, the remnants of old glue or mastic are removed from the base, if necessary, leveling is carried out, cleaning from dust and dirt. Next, a fresh adhesive is applied to the base floor with a brush, a patch is inserted, and carefully smoothed. You can place a load on the surface for several days.