Do-it-yourself signal repair

Mon 31 Dec 2012

Views: 11 570 Category: DIY

Sometimes it seems that car signals are working quietly for some reason. So a friend came to me with the same problem and asked me to make the signals so that the ears turned up ... It's good that I knew one proven method, which I offer you today. To do this, we need two sets of signals for cars and a piece of plastic sewer pipe.

We select the pipe diameter so that the signaling device can freely enter it. The length of the pipe is approximately half a meter.

You will also need to buy epoxy and a few sticks of silicone.

Then we cut the pipe into 2 identical halves, try to cut the pipe as evenly as possible.

Here we make the first signal, install it in the pipe and coat it with silicone for tightness. Then, as the silicone dries, we prepare the epoxy and fill it with a syringe directly on top of the silicone. Then, in the same way, we make another pipe with a signal ...

After the pipes have been completely smeared with silicone and epoxy, we expose them to fresh air for 5 hours to harden.

In the finished pipes we make holes for wires and for fastening (for a bolt). We select the bolt so that it will be easy for you to fix this design under the hood of your car later. Then on the pipes on the reverse side we attach more on a signal.

Here's how to do almost everything, you can see from the photos, we fix other signals in the same way as the previous ones, first silicone then epoxy, we output the wires, as a result we get four wires from each signal, we parallel these wires and get 2 wires from each pipe.

The advantage of these signals is that these signaling devices do not care how you connect the polarity, they will still beep. These signals in the tube emit a sound with a frequency of 300 hertz. We tried only two, but what if we connect all four?

Then we attached all our signals under the hood of the car, ran the wires, connected them through the relay, and when the signal was pressed, our ears just curled up into a tube and didn’t hear anything for about five minutes - there was one ringing ... In short, these are not signals, these are just crazy signals ... So that if you want to strengthen your signals, then proceed according to the method described above and tested by us. I wish you all good luck on the road.

4 signals and without pipes it will be loud. And how to use such signals when a baby in a stroller is sleeping nearby, or some grandmother or grandfather is walking in front of the car. You honked and they have a heart attack with a fright. The child is generally a stutterer at best. I just put signals from the Volga and learned for a long time how to signal so as not to frighten people. A loud signal is needed only on the highway and in the city it is not needed.

Loud signal nkzhen and in the city. Sleeping children and grandfathers do not care to honk at all. Slowed down and waited, nothing will fall off. And from the morons who are doing devils on the road that they do not react to a weak sound. It's like in a quarrel, whoever shouts louder is right.

The absence of a sound signal on a car is a malfunction that affects traffic safety. The ability to warn or attract the attention of pedestrians, as well as other road users, in time, directly with a horn, can help to avoid creating an emergency or an accident.

Such a malfunction as the absence of a sound signal on cars of the VAZ family is quite easy to diagnose and repair with your own hands. To do this, you need to study the connection diagram (it is very simple) and follow the instructions to make the necessary checks.

Although the connection schemes are slightly different, on the "classic" and front-wheel drive VAZ cars, they are very similar. The difference lies only in the marking of the relay and the location of the fuse, otherwise they are completely identical.

Wiring diagram for the sound signal VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, (2106 after 1993), without relay:

1. Sound signals S-308 and S-309, (2106 - 20.3721-01);
2. Battery;
3. Fuse block (1 per signal);
4. Horn switch (button on the steering wheel);
5. DC generator;

Sound signal diagram VAZ 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107, 2121, with relay:

1. Sound signals S-309 and S-308,;
2. Battery;
3. Generator;
4. Fuse block;
5. Button for turning on the horn on the steering wheel;
6. Sound signal relay RS - 528;

Scheme of sound signals VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2113, 2114, 2115:

1. sound signal;
2. Fuse and relay mounting block;
3. Steering wheel button

Scheme for switching on the sound signal VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 and their modifications:

1. Sound klaxon;
2. Power button on the steering wheel;
3. Mounting block with fuse (no relay)

Scheme for switching on the sound signal on cars VAZ 1117, 1118, 1119, 2192, 2194 (Kalina), VAZ 2170, 2171, 2172 (Priora):

1. Fuse and relay mounting block (control and comfort unit);
2. Horn button on the steering wheel;
3. Sound signal;

The most common reason for the absence of a sound signal lies in the signals themselves. The reason is mechanical, moisture and oxidation lead to blockage of the sound membrane and, as a result, the absence of vibrations and sound effect. Sometimes you can restore performance by spraying WD-40 or a similar composition into the signal.

On cars, where two signals are installed, as a rule, they are of different tonality, low and high. If one signal fails, the second will not be able to fully provide the required power, and therefore a replacement is required. As a rule, many signals are equipped with a tone control screw, and in the presence of wheezing, grinding and other undesirable sound effects, you can use the adjustment to achieve a suitable sound. Also, with their help, you can move the "sour" membrane, thereby restoring the signal's performance.

1) check for the presence of an incoming mass or voltage on the signal itself (on older systems, the “plus” is constant, and the signal was controlled by “minus”). If there is a plus and a minus that appears, when you press the “horn”, replace the signals themselves (the signals are non-separable, and in case of failure they must be replaced);

2) Check the supply voltage (fuse, relay, mounting block);

3) Power button on the steering wheel (contacts, adjustment of switches and three-lever), the presence of mass on the steering column;

- the signal wheezes or disappears:

- the sound signal appears spontaneously when the steering wheel is turned:

1) Incorrect adjustment of the steering column switch (strongly “pressed” to the steering wheel);

2) Short circuit of the mass on the steering column (signal control wire);

It should be noted that on some models of "KALINA" and "PRIORA" the signals are connected to the anti-theft system (signals the opening or closing of doors, plays the role of guarding the system and alarms), and some causes of signal failure may be associated with it.

During the operation of the car, it becomes necessary to repair its systems and assemblies. The security system is no exception in this regard. To save money, you can do it yourself. In this article, you will learn how to repair car alarms and key fob with your own hands.

It is conditionally possible to divide all alarm malfunctions into the following types:

• nutritional problems;
• wiring problems;
• software failure;
• false positives;
• key fob malfunction.

Let's take a closer look at each of the malfunctions in the car alarm.

Often the causes of incorrect alarm operation are power problems.This can happen both with the equipment installed on the car and with the car alarm key fob. The power failure of the system occurs due to a discharged vehicle battery. The machine stops responding to the owner's commands. The battery that serves as a power source for the key fob can also be discharged. In this case, the lamp and the display of the device will turn off. A decrease in battery charge can be noticed in a timely manner by reducing the range of the key fob.

The reason for the de-energization of the system is sometimes wiring defects. Over time, the contacts oxidize, which leads to the termination of the transmission of electricity. The wires themselves may also be damaged. This happens during the installation of additional equipment or when trying to steal the car. Another reason is faulty fuses. The same symptoms appear as with power problems - the car does not respond to commands. This is provided that the key fob is in working order.

Sometimes car alarm malfunctions are caused by incorrect operation of the control unit - the "brain" of the system. This is the result of a software failure.

These malfunctions are caused by errors in setting up or installing a car alarm. If the sensitivity of the sensors is set too high, the alarm will be triggered at the slightest shock or vibration. The triggers can be caused by small dry tree branches falling on the machine, rain or even a loud sound. Sensors set to optimal sensitivity, but mounted on plastic parts, will also not work correctly. The fact is that plastic amplifies the vibrations that the sensors perceive. When heated, this material expands, which can cause sensors to trip.

During operation, the key fob may start to work incorrectly or even break. The reasons for this are wear and various damage caused by a fall or exposure to water. A cracked display significantly reduces the information content and ease of use of the security system. Dropping the key fob can also cause damage to the quartz.

Before starting car alarm repair, it is necessary to find the cause of the malfunction. Completely different breakdowns can have the same symptoms. To accurately determine the cause of the malfunction, it is necessary to consider all possible options in stages.

You need to start with a keychain. Inspect it for mechanical damage and traces of water. If the key fob has been immersed in water, condensation will form on the inside of the display cover. The operation of such a device (if it turns on) will be unstable. If the key fob did not fall and fell into the water, but the display is off and nothing happens when you press the buttons, then the battery is to blame.

If the key fob is fully functional, but nothing happens when you press its buttons, then there can be two reasons for this - strong external interference or problems with the car and the alarm. Try to bring the key fob to the part of the car where the car alarm antenna is installed and press the button. If nothing happens, then faults must be sought in the machine itself or in the alarm equipment installed on it.

Next, power and wiring diagnostics are performed. Check the battery charge and inspect its terminals for oxidation. The completeness of the battery charge can be easily determined by the operation of the on-board electronics. If everything is normal, then the next step is to check the wiring. To do this, you need a special tester, which calls the contacts. Inspect the wires for mechanical damage. Special attention should be paid to fuses. Usually they are in a box, which is located on the wire coming from the positive terminal of the battery.

If the cause has not yet been found, then the defect in the control unit or the failure of its software is to blame.It will not be possible to eliminate such a defect with your own hands, but with a software failure everything is much simpler - it is enough to carry out simple manipulations, which we will discuss below.

Most often, repairs require a car alarm key fob. The buttons wear out and begin to respond poorly to pressing, and the device itself may fall on the asphalt or in a puddle. Button repair includes disassembling the case, cleaning the contacts and replacing the button pads (if necessary). To raise the recessed buttons, you can make a plastic substrate that is glued to their seats on the board.

Most often, when a key fob falls, quartz comes off its board. To eliminate this defect, it is enough to disassemble the key fob and solder the quartz to its original place.

To fix cracks in the display, you need to completely replace it. Remove the old display, clean the contacts and solder the cables of the new display. The process itself is not very complex and requires initial soldering skills. The difficulty lies in finding a new display. You can hardly find it in stores, so you have to order from China via the Internet. Defects caused by water ingress cannot be repaired by yourself.

Power and wiring problems are solved by cleaning battery contacts and terminals, as well as replacing fuses and damaged wires. In order not to do unnecessary work, use the tester to find the exact cause of the malfunction, and then eliminate it.

To eliminate the problem of false alarms, it is necessary to adjust the sensitivity of the sensors. The adjustment process is extremely simple. To do this, screw in or unscrew the adjusting screw located on the sensor housing.

To resolve software failures, you must reboot the system. To do this, de-energize it by disconnecting one of the terminals from the battery for a few minutes. If this does not help, then reset the car alarm to factory settings. A step-by-step reset instruction can be found in the instructions for your alarm model.

The best way to test a car alarm is to use it for its intended purpose. Arm the car and try to open the doors, trunk or hit the car. You should hit the wheels, hood and windows, gradually increasing the force of impact. After checking the sensitivity setting of the sensors, open the car doors with the key and try to start it, also using the key. The alarm should go off. Check the rest of the functionality, depending on the specific model, the functionality will be very different, we suggested how to check the basic and general alarm functions.

Most of the problems associated with the operation of car alarms can be fixed by hand. It is better to entrust the repair of the control unit and other complex electronics to specialists. If, after following the above recommendations, the breakdown is not eliminated, then you need to contact the car service. To continue driving with a broken alarm, you need to master the process of turning it off with a secret button, which you can read about in the instructions for the car alarm.

The horn (horn) refers to one of the safety features that every car is equipped with. The device itself must be in working order to enable the car owner to signal other drivers, inform about his approach and even prevent an accident. What to do in a situation where the sound signal does not work? According to what algorithm to connect it after repair work? We will consider these points in detail in the article.

To begin with, let's deal with the machine's sound signal device. Its circuit includes the following elements - an anchor (1 and 15), a rod (2), an adjusting (3) and locking (4) nuts, two tungsten contacts (5 and 6), and a core (8).In addition, the horn includes a capacitor (7), a housing - 9 (it is in it that all the elements are assembled), a winding (13), an activation button (located on the steering wheel) - 10, a resonant disk (11) and a membrane (12) . The operability of the device is provided by a number of other elements - winding (13), relay contact (14), signals (17), relay winding (16) and another armature (15).

After pressing the control button, the current begins to flow through the winding, due to which the core is magnetized and the armature is pulled up. Together with the latter, the rod moves, which bends the membrane. Further, thanks to the nut, the contact group opens, and the electrical circuit is broken. After that, the elements of the horn, such as the anchor, rod, disk and others, return to their original position. In this case, the contacts close again and current flows into the winding. Opening of contacts occurs after pressing the horn button.

How to determine that the horn is not working? To do this, you need to know the signs of a device malfunction. These include:

• Sound signal failure. In this case, the driver presses the button located on the steering wheel, but nothing happens.
• Periodic operation. There are situations when the horn first gives out a sound, but after a while it disappears.

Now consider the reasons why the sound signal does not work on the car:

If suddenly the sound signal does not work, then this is not a reason to despair. The problems discussed above can be fixed by hand. To solve the problem, you will need a digital or pointer multimeter, crimping tongs, pliers, and a sharp clerical knife. Also prepare spare wires and the instruction manual for the machine.

Inspection and repair are carried out in the following sequence.

Make sure the fuse is intact and the relay is working. To do this, find the safety block and inspect. The exact diagram can be found in the technical documentation, but most often the safety device is located in the mentioned block or dashboard. Once the knot is found, pay attention to the outside of the cover, which will help you find the right fuse.

To check if the device is working, use a multimeter. With it, the easiest way to determine why the horn does not work. Set the device to the resistance measurement mode with a "beep" (if such a function is available). If you only have an analog multimeter at hand, then before diagnosing, calibrate the tester, for which you bridge its probes and, using the regulator, move the arrow to zero.

Now touch the fuse contacts with the probes. If the melting insert is intact, then the number “0” is displayed on the device display. In the case when the multimeter shows infinity or some kind of resistance, the fuse is out of order. The solution to the problem is to install a new fusible insert.

If the fuse turned out to be good, find the relay box located in the engine compartment or in the passenger compartment of the car. If you have difficulty finding it, use the manual for the car. As a rule, the relay is located along with the fuses in the same block. The easiest way is to check the operation of the relay by replacing the device in places with a similar part. Most often, the installed relays are interchangeable. If, after replacement, the sound signal began to work, then we can conclude that the relay has failed.

Checking the steering horn switch

To perform this work, you will also need a tester. Lack of voltage on the button indicates a malfunction.

Relay Switch Test

To solve this problem, remove the relay and set the resistance measurement mode on the device. Connect one multimeter probe to the "minus" of the battery, and the other to the connector of the switching device.After, ask the assistant to press the horn button. If numbers appear on the display of the measuring device, this indicates that the circuit is working. If the inscription Out of Limits appears, it can be concluded that the node is broken. Now we can conclude why the sound signal does not work. The reason is the switch, and the only solution, in this case, is to replace the device.

Most often, the horn is located behind the engine radiator grill, in front of the main radiator of the cooling system. Find the mechanism and identify the "positive" and "negative" conclusions. To solve the problem, use the manual for the car. As soon as the necessary information is received, connect the horn to the battery to check its performance.

Next, connect the positive contact to the "plus", and the second (negative) - to the "minus". After connecting the second contact, the horn should work. Otherwise, we can talk about a device malfunction.

Checking the integrity of the electrical circuit

Finally, diagnose the circuit. At this stage, it is worth checking the quality of the grounding of the loop, as well as the current and voltage parameters. Find the mass to accurately determine the ground. To check, take a tester and set the Ohm (resistance) measurement mode. With one probe of the device, touch the "minus", and with the other - to the mass. Numbers should appear on the multimeter display, indicating the integrity of the wiring.

If the horn does not work, be sure to check the condition of the contact groups. Practice shows that oxidation is most often the cause of failure. To fix the problem, it is worth cleaning the contacts.

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