4 signals and without pipes it will be loud. And how to use such signals when a baby in a stroller is sleeping nearby, or some grandmother or grandfather is walking in front of the car. You honked and they have a heart attack with a fright. The child is generally a stutterer at best. I just put signals from the Volga and learned for a long time how to signal so as not to frighten people. A loud signal is needed only on the highway and in the city it is not needed.
Loud signal nkzhen and in the city. Sleeping children and grandfathers do not care to honk at all. Slowed down and waited, nothing will fall off. And from the morons who are doing devils on the road that they do not react to a weak sound. It's like in a quarrel, whoever shouts louder is right.
The absence of a sound signal on a car is a malfunction that affects traffic safety. The ability to warn or attract the attention of pedestrians, as well as other road users, in time, directly with a horn, can help to avoid creating an emergency or an accident.
Such a malfunction as the absence of a sound signal on cars of the VAZ family is quite easy to diagnose and repair with your own hands. To do this, you need to study the connection diagram (it is very simple) and follow the instructions to make the necessary checks.
Although the connection schemes are slightly different, on the "classic" and front-wheel drive VAZ cars, they are very similar. The difference lies only in the marking of the relay and the location of the fuse, otherwise they are completely identical.
Wiring diagram for the sound signal VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, (2106 after 1993), without relay:
Sound signals S-308 and S-309, (2106 - 20.3721-01);
Battery;
Fuse block (1 per signal);
Horn switch (button on the steering wheel);
DC generator;
Sound signal diagram VAZ 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107, 2121, with relay:
Sound signals S-309 and S-308,;
Battery;
Generator;
Fuse block;
Button for turning on the horn on the steering wheel;
Sound signal relay RS - 528;
Scheme of sound signals VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2113, 2114, 2115:
sound signal;
Fuse and relay mounting block;
Steering wheel button
Scheme for switching on the sound signal VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 and their modifications:
Sound klaxon;
Power button on the steering wheel;
Mounting block with fuse (no relay)
Scheme for switching on the sound signal on cars VAZ 1117, 1118, 1119, 2192, 2194 (Kalina), VAZ 2170, 2171, 2172 (Priora):
Fuse and relay mounting block (control and comfort unit);
Horn button on the steering wheel;
Sound signal;
The most common reason for the absence of a sound signal lies in the signals themselves. The reason is mechanical, moisture and oxidation lead to blockage of the sound membrane and, as a result, the absence of vibrations and sound effect. Sometimes you can restore performance by spraying WD-40 or a similar composition into the signal.
VIDEO On cars, where two signals are installed, as a rule, they are of different tonality, low and high. If one signal fails, the second will not be able to fully provide the required power, and therefore a replacement is required. As a rule, many signals are equipped with a tone control screw, and in the presence of wheezing, grinding and other undesirable sound effects, you can use the adjustment to achieve a suitable sound. Also, with their help, you can move the "sour" membrane, thereby restoring the signal's performance.
1) check for the presence of an incoming mass or voltage on the signal itself (on older systems, the “plus” is constant, and the signal was controlled by “minus”). If there is a plus and a minus that appears, when you press the “horn”, replace the signals themselves (the signals are non-separable, and in case of failure they must be replaced);
2) Check the supply voltage (fuse, relay, mounting block);
3) Power button on the steering wheel (contacts, adjustment of switches and three-lever), the presence of mass on the steering column;
- the signal wheezes or disappears:
- the sound signal appears spontaneously when the steering wheel is turned:
1) Incorrect adjustment of the steering column switch (strongly “pressed” to the steering wheel);
2) Short circuit of the mass on the steering column (signal control wire);
It should be noted that on some models of "KALINA" and "PRIORA" the signals are connected to the anti-theft system (signals the opening or closing of doors, plays the role of guarding the system and alarms), and some causes of signal failure may be associated with it.
It is conditionally possible to divide all alarm malfunctions into the following types:
nutritional problems;
wiring problems;
software failure;
false positives;
key fob malfunction.
Let's take a closer look at each of the malfunctions in the car alarm.
You need to start with a keychain. Inspect it for mechanical damage and traces of water. If the key fob has been immersed in water, condensation will form on the inside of the display cover. The operation of such a device (if it turns on) will be unstable. If the key fob did not fall and fell into the water, but the display is off and nothing happens when you press the buttons, then the battery is to blame.
If the key fob is fully functional, but nothing happens when you press its buttons, then there can be two reasons for this - strong external interference or problems with the car and the alarm. Try to bring the key fob to the part of the car where the car alarm antenna is installed and press the button. If nothing happens, then faults must be sought in the machine itself or in the alarm equipment installed on it.
Next, power and wiring diagnostics are performed. Check the battery charge and inspect its terminals for oxidation. The completeness of the battery charge can be easily determined by the operation of the on-board electronics. If everything is normal, then the next step is to check the wiring. To do this, you need a special tester, which calls the contacts. Inspect the wires for mechanical damage. Special attention should be paid to fuses. Usually they are in a box, which is located on the wire coming from the positive terminal of the battery.
If the cause has not yet been found, then the defect in the control unit or the failure of its software is to blame.It will not be possible to eliminate such a defect with your own hands, but with a software failure everything is much simpler - it is enough to carry out simple manipulations, which we will discuss below.
Most often, when a key fob falls, quartz comes off its board. To eliminate this defect, it is enough to disassemble the key fob and solder the quartz to its original place.
To fix cracks in the display, you need to completely replace it. Remove the old display, clean the contacts and solder the cables of the new display. The process itself is not very complex and requires initial soldering skills. The difficulty lies in finding a new display. You can hardly find it in stores, so you have to order from China via the Internet. Defects caused by water ingress cannot be repaired by yourself.
Power and wiring problems are solved by cleaning battery contacts and terminals, as well as replacing fuses and damaged wires. In order not to do unnecessary work, use the tester to find the exact cause of the malfunction, and then eliminate it.
To resolve software failures, you must reboot the system. To do this, de-energize it by disconnecting one of the terminals from the battery for a few minutes. If this does not help, then reset the car alarm to factory settings. A step-by-step reset instruction can be found in the instructions for your alarm model.
Most of the problems associated with the operation of car alarms can be fixed by hand. It is better to entrust the repair of the control unit and other complex electronics to specialists. If, after following the above recommendations, the breakdown is not eliminated, then you need to contact the car service. To continue driving with a broken alarm, you need to master the process of turning it off with a secret button, which you can read about in the instructions for the car alarm.
The horn (horn) refers to one of the safety features that every car is equipped with. The device itself must be in working order to enable the car owner to signal other drivers, inform about his approach and even prevent an accident. What to do in a situation where the sound signal does not work? According to what algorithm to connect it after repair work? We will consider these points in detail in the article.
To begin with, let's deal with the machine's sound signal device. Its circuit includes the following elements - an anchor (1 and 15), a rod (2), an adjusting (3) and locking (4) nuts, two tungsten contacts (5 and 6), and a core (8).In addition, the horn includes a capacitor (7), a housing - 9 (it is in it that all the elements are assembled), a winding (13), an activation button (located on the steering wheel) - 10, a resonant disk (11) and a membrane (12) . The operability of the device is provided by a number of other elements - winding (13), relay contact (14), signals (17), relay winding (16) and another armature (15).
After pressing the control button, the current begins to flow through the winding, due to which the core is magnetized and the armature is pulled up. Together with the latter, the rod moves, which bends the membrane. Further, thanks to the nut, the contact group opens, and the electrical circuit is broken. After that, the elements of the horn, such as the anchor, rod, disk and others, return to their original position. In this case, the contacts close again and current flows into the winding. Opening of contacts occurs after pressing the horn button.
How to determine that the horn is not working? To do this, you need to know the signs of a device malfunction. These include:
Sound signal failure. In this case, the driver presses the button located on the steering wheel, but nothing happens.
Periodic operation. There are situations when the horn first gives out a sound, but after a while it disappears.
Now consider the reasons why the sound signal does not work on the car:
If suddenly the sound signal does not work, then this is not a reason to despair. The problems discussed above can be fixed by hand. To solve the problem, you will need a digital or pointer multimeter, crimping tongs, pliers, and a sharp clerical knife. Also prepare spare wires and the instruction manual for the machine.
Inspection and repair are carried out in the following sequence.
Make sure the fuse is intact and the relay is working. To do this, find the safety block and inspect. The exact diagram can be found in the technical documentation, but most often the safety device is located in the mentioned block or dashboard. Once the knot is found, pay attention to the outside of the cover, which will help you find the right fuse.
To check if the device is working, use a multimeter. With it, the easiest way to determine why the horn does not work. Set the device to the resistance measurement mode with a "beep" (if such a function is available). If you only have an analog multimeter at hand, then before diagnosing, calibrate the tester, for which you bridge its probes and, using the regulator, move the arrow to zero.
Now touch the fuse contacts with the probes. If the melting insert is intact, then the number “0” is displayed on the device display. In the case when the multimeter shows infinity or some kind of resistance, the fuse is out of order. The solution to the problem is to install a new fusible insert.
If the fuse turned out to be good, find the relay box located in the engine compartment or in the passenger compartment of the car. If you have difficulty finding it, use the manual for the car. As a rule, the relay is located along with the fuses in the same block. The easiest way is to check the operation of the relay by replacing the device in places with a similar part. Most often, the installed relays are interchangeable. If, after replacement, the sound signal began to work, then we can conclude that the relay has failed.
Checking the steering horn switch
To perform this work, you will also need a tester. Lack of voltage on the button indicates a malfunction.
Relay Switch Test
To solve this problem, remove the relay and set the resistance measurement mode on the device. Connect one multimeter probe to the "minus" of the battery, and the other to the connector of the switching device.After, ask the assistant to press the horn button. If numbers appear on the display of the measuring device, this indicates that the circuit is working. If the inscription Out of Limits appears, it can be concluded that the node is broken. Now we can conclude why the sound signal does not work. The reason is the switch, and the only solution, in this case, is to replace the device.
Most often, the horn is located behind the engine radiator grill, in front of the main radiator of the cooling system. Find the mechanism and identify the "positive" and "negative" conclusions. To solve the problem, use the manual for the car. As soon as the necessary information is received, connect the horn to the battery to check its performance.
Next, connect the positive contact to the "plus", and the second (negative) - to the "minus". After connecting the second contact, the horn should work. Otherwise, we can talk about a device malfunction.
Checking the integrity of the electrical circuit
Finally, diagnose the circuit. At this stage, it is worth checking the quality of the grounding of the loop, as well as the current and voltage parameters. Find the mass to accurately determine the ground. To check, take a tester and set the Ohm (resistance) measurement mode. With one probe of the device, touch the "minus", and with the other - to the mass. Numbers should appear on the multimeter display, indicating the integrity of the wiring.
If the horn does not work, be sure to check the condition of the contact groups. Practice shows that oxidation is most often the cause of failure. To fix the problem, it is worth cleaning the contacts.
Video: The sound signal does not work. How to find the reason?
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VIDEO
The horn or horn is a safety feature that should be working in any car. Thanks to this device, accidents can be prevented, which is why its performance is very important. What to do if the horn does not work, and how to connect the signal after repair? You will find answers to these questions below.
Let's consider a universal circuit of a car sound signal device:
The so-called anchor.
Device stem.
Nut for adjustment.
Lock-nut.
First tungsten klaxon contact.
Another contact made of tungsten.
capacitor element.
Core.
The box that contains all the components.
Activation button located on the steering wheel.
resonator disk.
Membrane.
Winding.
This is a relay contact.
Another anchor.
Relay winding.
Signals.
In accordance with the connection diagram, when the driver presses the control button, a current begins to flow through the winding, which eventually magnetizes the core, which in turn attracts the armature. With this anchor, the rod begins to move, bending the membrane, and thanks to the nut, the contacts open, which contributes to interrupting the electrical circuit. All elements, in particular, the disk, rod, armature and others, are returned to their original position by means of a spring and a membrane. In this case, the contacts close, which again leads to the passage of current through the winding. The process of opening the contacts is carried out by pressing the horn button on the steering wheel (the author of the video is the pribambas sender channel).
By what signs can you determine that a car horn needs repair:
The steering horn does not work. When the motorist presses the steering wheel button, the sound device does not work.
The device either works or it doesn't. When you press the button on the steering wheel, the horn first works and then disappears.
As for the reasons due to which the device may fail, there are many of them:
How to check and repair the beep with your own hands? For diagnostics, you will need a tester (it is desirable that it be a digital multimeter, but if you don’t have it, you can also use a regular one), crimping tongs, pliers, and a clerical knife. Prepare spare wiring and service manual for the machine.
Repair checks are performed as follows:
Powerful steamship whistle with your own hands. From various plumbing components you can collect interesting crafts. For example, a steamship whistle (typhon in English). Moreover, for the manufacture of a cool signal, you do not need to weld, solder or glue anything. We read about how to make a beep - typhon with our own hands and look below. The money spent will pay off with the result. It is impossible to buy such a beep anywhere - you can only make it yourself. The scheme of assembling a steamship whistle with your own hands is shown.
VIDEO
1. Elbow 40 mm - 90° - 4 pieces;
2. Sink siphon included - 1 piece;
3. Transition 50 mm - 40 mm - 1 piece;
4. Elbow 110mm - 87° - 1 piece;
Before assembling the structure, it is necessary to refine the siphon, this refinement must be taken seriously. Strictly adhere to the proposed improvement scheme. The central pipe of the siphon needs to be shortened with your own hands so that it protrudes 1.5-2 mm above the plane of the outer pipe. On the ruler, mark the place of the cut and cut off the excess part with a metal saw. The place of the cut is carefully polished with emery skins with a decrease in the grain size. You should get a smooth, even surface - this is a must.
Difficulties in manufacturing were caused by the method of attaching a sound membrane made of rubber. There are two implementation paths here. The first way is simple, attaching the membrane to the surface of the siphon without further modification of the latter. The second way is difficult, modify the siphon and install a protective cap over the membrane.
First way used in the construction of the device. If you stretch the rubber and hold it tightly along the outer case, you can blow into the side hole with your mouth and get a sound. So all available rubber materials were tested, the best effect was given by a piece of rubber from a torn swimming cap. There was no denser material at hand. The membrane for stationary use can be fixed with twine and electrical tape. The disadvantage of the first way is that part of the sound will be emitted outside bypassing the outlet pipe and the membrane may be damaged.
Second way . Various siphons and fastening methods were used, but a completely non-original method won. To avoid premature rupture of the membrane, the external thread on the siphon is cut off completely. The thread on the cap is covered with adhesive tape. Holes are cut in the cap itself, the size and number of holes affects the frequency and volume of the sound, and for denser rubber, the number of holes may be small. The cap without membrane must be freely removed from the siphon. See photo.
A low-frequency amplifier (ULF) is a device whose purpose every music lover knows. This component of the audio system allows you to improve the sound quality of the acoustics as a whole. But like any other electronic device, AU can fail. Learn more about how do-it-yourself repair of car audio amplifiers is done in this article.
Before you repair, install and configure ULF in your car, you need to understand the breakdown. It is simply impossible to consider all the malfunctions that can be encountered in practice, since there are a lot of them. The main task of repairing a sound amplifying device is to restore a broken component, the failure of which led to the inoperability of the entire board.
In any electrical engineering, including amplifiers, there can be two types of faults:
contact is present where it should not be;
in the place where there should be a contact, it is missing.
Automotive ULF microcircuit
Repair of car amplifiers primarily begins with the diagnosis of ULF:
Soldering iron on the amplifier chip
Do-it-yourself car amplifier repair is carried out in accordance with what kind of problem was identified during its operation:
If the transistor is broken in the auto amplifier, then before replacing it directly, it is recommended to diagnose the safety element by power supply. You also need to make sure that the diodes on the tires are working. If everything is in order with these parts, the installed transistors must be changed.
For more specialized repairs, you will need an oscilloscope. By installing the probes of the device on pins 9 and 10 of the generator board, you need to make sure that there are signals. If there are no signals, then the driver changes, if they are, then the field-effect transistor elements are replaced.
Capacitors are changed much less frequently during the repair process - as practice shows, this happens infrequently (the author of the video is the HamRadio Tag channel).
Now let's move on to the question - how to set up a car amplifier? There are several configuration options - for use with and without a subwoofer.
How to properly configure the ULF without a subwoofer - you first need to set the following parameters:
bass boost - 0 decibels;
level - 0 (8V);
the crossover must be set to FLAT.
After that, by adjusting the audio system settings with an equalizer, the system is adjusted to your preferences. The volume must be set to maximum and include some track. How to set up an amplifier in a car for use with a subwoofer is also not a particularly complicated procedure.
For proper configuration, it is desirable to use the following parameters:
Bass Boost should also be set to 0 decibels;
the level is set to 0;
the front crossover is set to the HP position, and the FI PASS regulatory element must be set in the range from 50 to 80 Hertz;
as for the rear crossover, it is set to the LP position, and the Low control must be set in the range from 60 to 100 hertz.
It is very important to observe these parameters, since they determine the quality of the adjustment and, accordingly, the sound of the audio system. In general, the tuning procedure is similar, for this, the level control is used to ensure a more harmonious sound. The sensitivity of the rear and front speakers should be matched to each other.
If you don’t understand anything about this, it’s better not to go there, because repairs will cost more after you burn or break it.
Sorry, there are currently no surveys available.
In more detail, the recommendations and the procedure for repairing the microcircuit are described in the video below (the author is the Soldering Iron TV channel).
The remote control of the anti-theft complex is the main control device. If it breaks down, the consumer will be able to use the main signaling options - enabling and disabling the protection mode, but other functions will not be available. Car alarm key fob repair can be done by hand.
If there are problems in the power supply, then the remote control buttons will stop responding to commands, the signal transmission will fail.
Sometimes alarm communicators Alligator, Sherkhan and other models randomly send commands to unlock or lock door locks. In most cases, the reason for this is a faulty power source, this will also be indicated by a weak glow of the diode bulb on the device case or the absence of a signal. To diagnose, you can use a multimeter, but it is better to immediately change the battery.
In some models of Pandora, Starline, Panther and other signaling devices, after changing the power source, reprogramming of the device is required so that the device can work. The binding procedure is always detailed in the technical instruction manual.To carry out this process, you will need to find the Jack or Override service key, which is used to emergency shutdown the complex. Depending on the model, the button must be pressed several times with the ignition switched off or activated; check the exact number of presses in the service book.
The Telemaster Korolev channel tells about the reasons for the failure of the Starline key fob button and its repair.
It happens that the car alarm key fob freezes with a working power source. This problem usually occurs if the machine is located within the range of anti-theft jammers or other sources of interference. The solution lies in the emergency shutdown of the protection mode, after which the car owner must leave the interference zone. The operation of the communicator largely depends on the amount of charge in the car battery, so if the battery runs out, it must be charged or replaced.
Sometimes the problem can be solved by rebooting the processor module, for this you need to remove the plug from the connector, disconnect the battery and reconnect it after a few minutes. An audible signal may sound, the pager will restore its operation, if this does not happen, then the malfunction should be sought in the operation of the board and contact elements.
You can repair a failed communicator yourself, we will analyze the repair process using the example of a pager from the Tomahawk 9010 signaling. Practice shows that the control devices of these models fail more often than others.
AlanMorfreeman told about the repair of the pager.
You need to repair the device after disassembling the case:
After diagnosing the board, the fasteners are checked on the diagram:
If the pager fell, then the quartz element could be disconnected from the main processing unit. This part is quite fragile, it is fixed on two contact elements under the screen. In case of minor damage, the quartz is glued to the board using thermal paste.
Instead of the old key, flux is applied to the circuit, stripping is carried out using a copper braid.
A new key is being installed, all contact elements are securely soldered, this will require a soldering iron with a thin tip.
Solder paste residue is removed from the board using a toothbrush and anti-flux. The remnants of soot, as well as dust, are removed. To do this, take a cotton swab and treat it with alcohol. It is not recommended to completely treat the circuit with a liquid; trimmer capacitor devices can be used in older models of communicators. Exposure to alcohol will damage them.
You can change the screen on the device yourself, for this you need a new display. The work is carried out using a tester, screwdrivers, soldering iron and other tools. Before installing a new screen, all remnants of cracked glass are removed from the board.
Anton Baitov talked about how to repair the transceiver keys.
If you cannot repair the car alarm key fob by soldering, it makes sense to buy a new communicator.
In large cities, there are dozens of specialized service centers that offer services not only for repairs, in such workshops you can find used keys with key fobs from different models of signaling devices. Pagers are often repaired by qualified electricians. You can find specialists without leaving your home by looking at ads on the Internet.
Many service centers today offer repair services for communicators:
replacement of screens on consoles;
replacement of pager cases, protective glasses, contacts, etc.;
full restoration or reconstruction of devices, flashing devices.
The cost of the service depends on the nature of the damage. The minimum repair price will be at least 250 rubles, the region of residence and the alarm model play a role in determining the cost. To repair communicators of modern complexes, you will have to pay a higher amount.Button replacement services are cheaper than repairing the board or changing the display.
The cost of repairing the alarm key fob depends on the type of malfunction.
Video (click to play).
Eugene Irimia demonstrated the procedure for repairing keys on a DaVinci car alarm pager.
Category: DIY
