DIY signal repair

Mon 31 Dec 2012

Views: 11 570 Category: Do it yourself

Sometimes it seems that car signals are quietly working for some reason. So a friend came to me with the same problem and asked me to make the signals beep so that the ears get filled up ... It's good that I knew one proven method, which I offer you today. To do this, we need two sets of signals for a car and a piece of plastic sewer pipe.

We select the diameter of the pipe so that the signal device can freely enter it. The length of the pipe is approximately half a meter.

You will also need to buy some epoxy and some silicone sticks.

Then we cut the pipe into 2 equal halves, try to cut the pipe as evenly as possible.

Here we make the first signal, install it in the pipe and coat it with silicone for airtightness. Then, as the silicone dries, we prepare the epoxy and fill it with a syringe directly on top of the silicone. Then, in the same way, we make another pipe with a signal ...

After the pipes have been completely coated with silicone and epoxy, we expose to fresh air for 5 hours for hardening.

In the finished pipes we make holes for wires and for fastening (for a bolt). We select the bolt so that it would be easy for you to fix this structure under the hood of your car later. Then we attach on the pipes on the back side by signal.

Here's how to do almost everything can be seen from the photographs, we fix other signals in the same way as the previous ones, first silicone then epoxy, we output the wires, as a result, we get four wires from each signal, we parallelize these wires and get 2 wires from each pipe.

The advantage of these signals is that these signaling devices do not care how you connect the polarity, they will still signal. These signals in the trumpet emit a sound at a frequency of 300 hertz. We tried only two, but what if we connect all four?

Then we attached all our signals under the hood of the car, ran wires, connected them through a relay, and when the signal was pressed, the ears simply curled up into a tube and did not hear anything for about five minutes - there was one ringing ... In short, these are not signals, these are just crazy signals ... So that if you want to amplify your signals, then proceed as described above and verified by us. I wish you all good luck on the road.

4 signals and without pipes it will be loud. And how to use such signals when a baby in a stroller is sleeping nearby, or some grandmother or grandfather is walking in front of the car. You honked and they have a heart attack with fright. A child is generally a stutterer at best. I just put the signals from the Volga and studied for a long time how to signal so that people would not be frightened. A loud signal is needed only on the highway and in the city it is not needed.

There is a loud signal in the city as well. Sleeping children and grandfathers do not need to honk at all. I slowed down and waited, nothing will fall off. And from fuckers who on the road are doing the devil that they do not react to a weak sound. It's like in a quarrel, who shouts louder is right.

The lack of a sound signal on the car is a malfunction that affects traffic safety. The ability to timely warn or attract the attention of pedestrians, as well as other road users, directly with a horn, can help to avoid an emergency or road accident.

A malfunction such as the lack of a sound signal on cars of the VAZ family is quite easy to diagnose and repair with your own hands.To do this, you need to study the connection diagram (it is very simple) and follow the instructions to make the necessary checks.

Although the connection diagrams are slightly different, on the "classic" and front-wheel drive VAZ cars, they are very similar. The only difference is in the marking of the relay and the location of the fuse, otherwise they are completely identical.

Wiring diagram for the sound signal VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, (2106 after 1993), without relay:

1. Sound signals S-308 and S-309, (2106 - 20.3721-01);
2. Battery;
3. Fuse box (1 per signal);
4. Horn switch (steering wheel button);
5. DC generator;

The circuit of the sound signal VAZ 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107, 2121, with a relay:

1. Sound signals S-309 and S-308;
2. Battery;
3. Generator;
4. Fuse box;
5. Horn button on the steering wheel;
6. Relay of sound signal RS - 528;

The scheme of sound signals VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2113, 2114, 2115:

1. Sound signal;
2. Mounting block for fuses and relays;
3. Steering wheel button;

The scheme for switching on the sound signal VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 and their modifications:

1. Sound horn;
2. Power button on the steering wheel;
3. Fuse mounting block (no relay)

The circuit for turning on the sound signal on cars VAZ 1117, 1118, 1119, 2192, 2194 (Kalina), VAZ 2170, 2171, 2172 (Priora):

1. Mounting block for fuses and relays (control and comfort unit);
2. Horn button on the steering wheel;
3. Sound signal;

The most common reason for the absence of a sound signal lies in the signals themselves. The reason is mechanical, moisture and oxidation lead to blocking of the sound membrane and, as a consequence, the absence of vibrations and sound effect. Sometimes it is possible to restore performance by sprinkling WD - 40 or a similar composition into the signal.

On cars, where two signals are installed, as a rule, they are of different tones, low and high. If one signal fails, the second will not be able to fully provide the required power, and therefore a replacement is required. Typically, many signals have a key to adjust the tone, and if there are wheezing, rattling, or other unwanted sound effects, you can adjust it to get the right sound. Also, with their help, you can move the "sour" membrane, thereby restoring the signal's performance.

1) check the presence of an incoming mass or voltage on the signal itself (on old systems, "plus" is constant, and the signal was controlled by "minus"). If there is a plus and an appearing minus, when you press the "horn", replace the signals themselves (the signals are non-separable, and must be replaced in case of failure);

2) Check the supply voltage (fuse, relay, mounting block);

3) Power button on the steering wheel (contacts, adjustment of switches and three-lever), presence of mass on the steering column;

- the signal wheezes or disappears:

- the sound signal appears spontaneously when turning the steering wheel:

1) Incorrect adjustment of the steering column switch (strongly "pressed" to the steering wheel);

2) A short to ground on the steering column (signal control wire);

It should be noted that on some models of "KALINA" and "PRIORA" signals are brought into the anti-theft system (signals the opening or closing of doors, plays the role of guarding the system and alarm), and some causes of signal malfunction may be associated with it.

During the operation of the car, it becomes necessary to repair its systems and assemblies. The security system in this regard is no exception. To save money, you can do it yourself. In this article, you will learn how to repair car alarms and key fob with your own hands.

All alarm faults can be conditionally divided into the following types:

• nutritional problems;
• wiring problems;
• software failure;
• false positives;
• malfunction in the key fob.

Let's take a closer look at each of the malfunctions in car alarms.

Power problems are often the cause of alarms not working properly. This can happen both with the equipment installed on the car and with the car alarm key fob. The system is de-energized due to a discharged vehicle battery. The car stops responding to the owner's commands. The battery, which serves as a power source for the key fob, can also be discharged. In this case, the lamp and display of the device will turn off. A decrease in the battery charge can be noticed in a timely manner by decreasing the range of the key fob.

Defects in the wiring sometimes become the cause of the system being de-energized. Over time, the contacts oxidize, which leads to the interruption of the transmission of electricity. The wires themselves may also be damaged. This happens during the installation of additional equipment or when attempting to steal the machine. Another reason is faulty fuses. The symptoms are the same as with power problems - the car does not respond to commands. This is provided that the key fob is in working order.

Sometimes car alarm malfunctions are caused by incorrect operation of the control unit - the "brain" of the system. This is due to a software failure.

These malfunctions are caused by errors in the setup or installation of the car alarm. If the sensitivity of the sensors is set too high, then the alarm will be triggered at the slightest shock or vibration. Alarms can be caused by small dry tree branches falling onto the machine, rain, or even a loud sound. Sensors set for optimal sensitivity, but installed on plastic parts, will also not work correctly. The fact is that plastic amplifies the vibrations that the sensors perceive. When heated, this material expands, which can trigger the sensors.

During operation, the key fob may start to work incorrectly or even break down. The reasons for this are wear and various damage caused by falling or exposure to water. A cracked display significantly reduces the information content and usability of the security complex. Dropping the key chain can also damage the quartz.

Before starting to repair car alarms, you need to find the cause of the malfunction. Completely different breakdowns can have the same symptoms. To accurately determine the cause of the malfunction, it is necessary to consider all possible options in stages.

You need to start with the key fob. Inspect it for mechanical damage and traces of water. If the key fob gets into water, condensation will form on the inside of the display lid. The operation of such a device (if it turns on) will be unstable. If the key fob did not fall and fell into the water, but the display is turned off and nothing happens when you press the buttons, then the discharged battery is to blame.

If the key fob is completely functional, but nothing happens when you press its buttons, then there may be two reasons for this - strong external interference or problems with the car and the alarm. Try to bring the key fob to the part of the car where the car alarm antenna is installed and press the button. If nothing happens, then the malfunctions need to be looked for in the car itself or in the alarm equipment installed on it.

Next, power and wiring diagnostics are performed. Check the battery charge and inspect the terminals for oxidation. The full charge of the battery can be easily determined by the operation of the on-board electronics. If everything is OK, then the next step is to check the wiring. To do this, you need a special tester with which the contacts are called. Inspect the wires for mechanical damage. Special attention should be paid to fuses.Usually they are in a box, which is located on the wire coming from the positive terminal of the battery.

If the cause has not yet been found, then a defect in the control unit or a failure of its software is to blame. It will not be possible to eliminate such a defect with your own hands, but with a software failure, everything is much easier - it is enough to carry out simple manipulations, which we will talk about below.

Most often, a car alarm key fob requires repair. The buttons wear out and begin to react poorly to pressing, and the device itself may fall on the asphalt or into a puddle. Button repair includes disassembling the case, cleaning the contacts and replacing the button pads (if necessary). To raise the recessed buttons, you can make a plastic backing that sticks to their seats on the board.

Most often, when the key fob falls from its board, quartz comes off. To eliminate this defect, it is enough to disassemble the keychain and solder the quartz to its original place.

To fix cracks in the display, you need to completely replace it. Remove the old display, strip the contacts and solder the cables of the new display. The process itself is not very complex and requires initial soldering skills. The difficulty lies in finding a new display. You can hardly find it in stores, so you will have to order from China via the Internet. Defects caused by water ingress cannot be eliminated by yourself.

Power and wiring problems are solved by stripping the battery contacts and terminals, and replacing fuses and damaged wires. To avoid unnecessary work, use the tester to find the exact cause of the problem and then fix it.

To eliminate the problem of false alarms, it is necessary to adjust the sensitivity of the sensors. The adjustment process is extremely simple. To do this, screw in or unscrew the adjusting screw located on the sensor housing.

To resolve software crashes, you need to reboot the system. To do this, de-energize it by disconnecting one of the terminals from the battery for a few minutes. If this does not help, then set the factory settings of the car alarm. Step-by-step instructions for resetting the settings can be found in the instructions for your alarm model.

The best way to test your car alarm is to use it as directed. Arming the car and try to open doors, trunk or hit the car. You should hit the wheels, hood and windows, gradually increasing the force of the impact. After checking the sensitivity setting of the sensors, open the car door with the key and try to start it, also using the key. The alarm should go off. Check the rest of the functionality, depending on the specific model, the functionality will be very different, we suggested how to check the basic and general alarm functions.

Most of the problems associated with the operation of car alarms can be eliminated by hand. It is better to entrust the repair of the control unit and other complex electronics to specialists. If, after following the above recommendations, the breakdown is not eliminated, then you need to contact a car service. To continue driving with a broken alarm, you need to master the process of turning it off with a secret button, which you can read about in the instructions for the car alarm.

Klaxon (horn) refers to one of the safety features that every vehicle is equipped with. The device itself must be in working order to enable the car owner to send a signal to other drivers, inform about his approach and even prevent an accident. What to do in a situation when the sound signal does not work? What is the algorithm for connecting it after repair work? Let's consider these points in detail in the article.

First, let's deal with the car horn device.Its circuit includes the following elements - an anchor (1 and 15), a rod (2), adjusting (3) and locking (4) nuts, two tungsten contacts (5 and 6), as well as a core (8). In addition, the horn includes a capacitor (7), a body - 9 (it is in it that all the elements are collected), a winding (13), an activation button (located on the steering wheel) - 10, a resonance disc (11) and a membrane (12) ... The operability of the device is provided by a number of other elements - a winding (13), a relay contact (14), signals (17), a relay winding (16) and another armature (15).

After pressing the control button, the current begins to flow through the winding, due to which the core is magnetized and the armature is pulled up. Together with the latter, the rod moves, which bends the membrane. Further, thanks to the nut, the contact group is opened, and the electrical circuit is broken. After that, the elements of the horn, such as anchor, rod, disc and others, return to their original position. In this case, the contacts are closed again and current flows into the winding. Opening of contacts occurs after pressing the horn button.

How to tell if the horn is not working? To do this, you need to know the symptoms of a device malfunction. These include:

• Failure of the audio signal. In this case, the driver presses a button located on the steering wheel, but nothing happens.
• Periodic triggering. There are situations when the horn at first gives out a sound, but after a while, it disappears.

Now let's look at the reasons why the sound signal does not work on the car:

If suddenly the sound signal does not work, then this is not a reason to despair. The problems discussed above can be eliminated by hand. To solve the problem, you will need a digital or pointer multimeter, crimping pliers, pliers, as well as a sharp stationery knife. Also prepare spare wires and machine manual.

Inspection and repairs are carried out in the following sequence.

Make sure the fuse is intact and the relay is working. To do this, find the safety block and inspect it. The exact diagram can be found in the technical documentation, but most often the safety device is located in the said block or dashboard. Once the assembly is found, pay attention to the outside of the cover to help you find the correct fuse.

Use a multimeter to check if the device is working properly. With its help, it is easiest to determine why the horn does not work. Set the resistance measurement mode with "beeper" on the device (if there is such a function). If you have only an analog multimeter at hand, then before diagnosing, calibrate the tester by shorting its probes and, using the regulator, move the arrow to the zero mark.

Now touch the test leads to the fuse contacts. If the fuse insert is intact, the display will show the number "0". In the case when the multimeter shows infinity or some kind of resistance, the fuse is out of order. The solution to the problem is to install a new fusible insert.

If the fuse is OK, locate the relay box located in the engine compartment or in the passenger compartment. If you have any difficulties with the search, use the manual for the car. As a rule, the relay is located together with the fuses in the same block. The easiest way is to check the functionality of the relay by replacing the device with places with a similar part. Most often, the installed relays are interchangeable. If, after replacement, the sound signal starts to work, then you can conclude that the relay is out of order.

Checking the steering horn switch

To do this job, you will also need a tester. Lack of voltage on the button indicates a malfunction.

Relay Switch Test

To solve this problem, remove the relay and set the resistance measurement mode on the device. Connect one probe of the multimeter to the negative of the battery, and the other to the connector of the switching device. After, ask the assistant to press the horn button. If numbers appear on the display of the measuring device, then this indicates the serviceability of the circuit. In the event of the appearance of the inscription Out of Limits, it is possible to conclude that the node is broken. Now we can conclude why the sound signal does not work. The reason is the switch, and the only solution, in this case, is to replace the device.

Most often, the horn is located behind the engine radiator grill, in front of the main radiator of the cooling system. Find the mechanism and identify the positive and negative terminals. To solve the problem, use the manual for the car. Once the necessary information is received, connect the horn to the battery to test its performance.

Then connect the positive contact to "plus", and the second (negative) to "minus". After connecting the second contact, the horn should work. Otherwise, we can talk about a malfunction of the device.

Checking the continuity of the electrical circuit

Finally, diagnose the circuit. At this stage, it is worth checking the quality of the loop grounding, as well as the current and voltage parameters. Find the ground to accurately determine the ground. To check, take a tester, and set the ohms (resistance) measurement mode. Touch the minus with one probe of the device, and touch the mass with the other. Numbers should appear on the display of the multimeter, which indicates the integrity of the wiring.

If the horn does not work, be sure to check the condition of the contact groups. Practice shows that oxidation is most often the cause of breakdown. To fix the problem, it is worth cleaning up the contacts.

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