In detail: do-it-yourself citroen c4 repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The Citroen C4 car was first seen in 2004, and it was not in vain, because to this day this car still meets the declared reliability and safety indicators compared to other cars of the same class. At first, relatively inconspicuous, with each new version of the Citroen C4 it began to contain more and more new functions. The latest versions of the car are thoroughly "stuffed" with various electronics, which sometimes helps out, but sometimes it rubs the nerves, and then it becomes necessary to repair the Citroen C4. But first things first.
Note that repair Citroen, or rather its need, in some moments depends on the vehicle configuration. So, the following versions are included in the line of this "Frenchman":
- Classique
- Confort
- Exclusive - variation for the hatchback
- VTR, VTR + and VTR Pack - Coupé variation
As for the correct choice of the model, this is up to everyone personally. Repair of the Citroen C4 Picasso after the operation period may be needed in the same way as the Citroen C4 Cactus. Therefore, the point is not so much in the principled choice of the model and configuration, but in the knowledge of the weak points of the car, which, in turn, must sometimes be paid attention to.
I would like to note in advance that, in general, the Citroen C4 is a prominent car with excellent characteristics both for driving in urban areas and beyond. But in this article we will pay more attention not to the advantages of the model, but to the disadvantages, so that potential buyers can see the full picture of the technical capabilities of the machine.
So, repair of Citroen C4 is very often associated with automatic transmission malfunctions. Sometimes it stops holding the valve, sometimes the entire valve body fails, and it also happens that the band brake completely breaks off, as a result, the box just wedges. No matter how hard manufacturers struggle with this problem, they cannot fully solve it. Therefore, fans of the C4 model often wisely choose the "mechanics".
Video (click to play). |
Sometimes it is required to visit the Citroen C4 car service in St. Petersburg due to the failure of the electric seat heating system. The biggest boom in this problem occurred in 2008. However, not often, but from time to time, this defect occurs in new models. This is due to the interconnected elements of the back and cushion system. Therefore, when at least one posting is frayed, the entire system stops working.
The rest of the breakdowns, due to which it is necessary to service the Citroen C4, include periodic disconnection of the engine temperature sensor, frequent malfunctions of the headlight washers. And with the generator, mainly due to the effects of chemistry, which the road services scatter on the roads, fighting the ice, problems begin in three or four years.
And the car, of course, is beautiful, the designers did their best. But you will not be full of beauty alone, so do not forget to provide timely maintenance of the Citroen C4, and periodically look at the nodes prone to weaknesses.
Debut. 2004, Geneva. 2006 model
BODY. 3- or 5-door hatchback
petrol -1.4 l, 90 hp; 16 l, 110,120 and 150 hp;
diesel -1.6 l, 90 and 110 hp; 2.0 l. 140 hp
Oassique, Contort, Exclusive. VTR, VTR Pack.
TOTAL DEPENDENCE (Oil change)!
Iodine in the hood immediately draws attention to the warning sticker: the manufacturer recommends operating fluids only of the "Total" brand. It will not be difficult to buy them in the megalopolis, but in the provinces they may not be found. What if the nearest dealer is hundreds of kilometers away from home? Then use liquids of other brands, but be sure to have similar properties. For example, the class of synthetic motor oil must be at least AZ / B4, and mineral water - C2 (according to ACEA).Viscosity index but SAE not lower than 5W-30 for middle and southern latitudes and 0VV-30 for northern latitudes.
We drain the working off from the warmed-up engine by unscrewing the plug in the oil pan. The edges are very low, and the open-end wrench can "lick" them, so it is better to work with a "24" head or a "8" square - there is a depression in the cork for it. When replacing the filter cartridge, be sure to change the O-ring (you will find it in the original kit). To prevent it from twisting when screwing on the cap, lubricate it. We tighten the cap with a torque of 25-30 Nm and, of course, exactly along the thread - I warn you, because you can blunder.
There is neither a dipstick nor a control plug in the manual gearbox. This is bad, because if oil leaks through the crankcase seals or oil seals, then it is not clear how much to top up. It's another matter if the unit is sealed. Then, unscrewing the drain plug with a key "21" or a square "8", drain everything to a drop and pour exactly 2 liters of fresh oil through another plug (it is on top of the crankcase). Then, as the manufacturer assures, the level will be normal. According to the official regulations, the oil cannot be changed, but, according to experience, it should be changed every 100,000 km.
The vending machine also does not have a dipstick and a control plug. Here they are replaced by a foot for a hexagon “by 8”, which is located under the plug on the pallet (it is under a square on). Having unscrewed both of these parts on the idle engine, we drain the working off into a measuring container, after which we screw the foot into place, and then the cork. Through the turned-out breather (or the plug on top of the crankcase), fill in fresh oil in a volume of 0.3-0-5 liters more than the drained one and start the engine. Warming it up to 60 * C, we translate the box selector in all positions with a 2-3-second delay in each of them and, leaving the growl in position P, unscrew the drain plug (do not touch the futorka!). The excess will merge, and only the required amount of oil will remain in the unit - along the cut of the upper hole in the case. By the way, but according to the previous regulations, the oil was considered "eternal", but due to frequent failures of the AL4 box (aka DP0 for Renault and ALA for Peugeot), the first oil change is now provided for 15 thousand km. and the next one is recommended with a mileage of 90 thousand km. Dealers do not change the filter, rightly believing that the unit will not survive until the third oil change. Say, then, when the box is completely disassembled, we will change the filter, otherwise it's not easy to get to it - it is behind the pallet and the hydraulic plate.
Prepare a wide container before changing the coolant. There is no drain plug in the radiator, so we will drain it by removing the lower pipe. In this case, you run the risk of splashing and scalding.
Of course, you can wait until the motor cools down, but then the thermostat valve will open and some of the liquid will remain trapped. However, this part is small. After filling the system, do not forget to remove air locks from it! For this, there are two valves under the blue caps - one in the heater pipe (at the bulkhead of the bulkhead), the second on the thermostat body.
We change the air filter: after releasing the retainer, we pull up the plastic resonator of the air duct, simultaneously removing the corrugation from it. We unscrew the bolt securing the filter housing and loosen the pipe clamp on the throttle assembly. Now we remove the brake reservoir, turned out a couple of self-tapping screws under - Torks-20, and take it to the side.
Shaking the body up and down, we move the pipe from the throttle assembly and take out the body. We turn out the self-tapping screws around the perimeter and, after removing the cover, we change the element. When assembling, make sure that the branch pipe is firmly seated on the throttle assembly!
To replace the spark plugs, unscrew the six self-tapping screws of the engine decorative lining and four bolts of the ignition modules. Remove the crankcase ventilation hoses by pressing on the yellow tip clamps. Raising the module so that the tips come out of the candle wells, we lay it across the valve cover - in this position it does not block access and is held on the wiring (the plug was not disconnected). Candles - turnkey for 16 ".
There is an automatic machine in the drive of the Attached Aggregates, which is great - you can't go wrong with the belt tension!
For a timing belt, about the same device, but semi-automatic. To set it in working condition, it is necessary to combine the arrow on the moving sector with the front sight on the stationary one. If you had to change a belt with a similar drive pattern, there will be no difficulties. Another thing, according to the French tradition, in the pulley-crankshaft connection, there is not a single dowel pin. That is, by unscrewing the central bolt, you can endlessly select the correct position of the shaft with the pulley. Here you cannot do without mandrels! There is nothing special in them: drills are also suitable for fixing the camshafts, and a more or less experienced car mechanic can make a hook for the crankshaft from a 6 mm bar. But it is better to entrust this work to specialists.
At the same time, let them change the rear pads - here you need devices for screwing in pistons, which not everyone has. Moreover, in the mechanisms of the "Bosch" company (they were installed until 2006), the pistons have to be turned in different directions, which means that two devices will be required - with a right thread and with a left one. It is easier with the front pads, it is only important to orient them correctly: the bevel of the lining should be on top. Of course, do not forget to clean the assembly from wear products and lubricate. And change the guide bolts - they, with locking sealant on the thread, are supplied in the original kit.
At first glance, changing bulbs in headlights is not difficult. It seems that the access is normal, and it is easy to remove the rubber plugs of the case. This is confusing: when a headlight lamp burns out, the owner takes over. It was not so! The block sits so tightly that the efforts of the fingers are simply not enough, and it is not possible to stick a brush in order to grip it tighter - the opening is not enough. I just want to pull off the connector with pliers. Take your time - you can easily pull out the landing sleeve on the reflector by the roots. It is better to make the simplest device: we bend a strip of steel 1.5x10x150 mm in the shape of a hook, sharpening the tip on emery under a wedge. We push it into the gap between the block and the lamp and, shaking and moving the mandrel around the perimeter of the block, gradually move it from the lamp. And to understand the principle of fixing the lamp, we use a mirror.
With front foglights, the same problem as with many other cars: there is a lot of dirt in the work area. In addition, here you need to remove the bumper skirt - unscrew seven bolts for "Torks-20", three under the key "for 10" and also squeeze out a couple of latches. It is extremely inconvenient to work without a lift.
We remove lanterns to replace lamps - such is, sadly enough, the current trend. Having removed the pockets And taking out two pistons in the trunk lining, we bend it back and unscrew the plastic lamb. It may not go by hand, and then it is not a sin to use pliers. At the five-door we also remove the reflector, and at the three-door we overcome the grip of the additional retainer, pulling the lantern out of the seat.
Maintenance of this machine is below average pleasure and is the fruit of the current general trend towards complicating operations that should be extremely simple. A guess is involuntarily born; and if it is intended - so that dealers will not be left without work?
SOME REPLACEMENT WORKS
Position name Frequency, thousand km (years)
Engine oil, oil filter 15 (1);
Antifreeze in the cooling system (5);
Brake fluid (2).
- ** - Control at each maintenance, replacement by condition;
- *** - Recommended after 100 thousand km.
APPROXIMATE COST OF SEPARATE WORKS AT DEALERS
Work Cost, rub (dollars)
Computer diagnostics of engine-800 (27);
Change of oil and filter engine-640 (22);
Replacing the air / cabin filter - 640/500 (22/17);
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