Do-it-yourself Citroen c4 repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Citroen C4 repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The Citroen C4 car first saw the light in 2004, and not in vain, because to this day this car still meets the declared reliability and safety indicators compared to other cars of the same class. At first, relatively inconspicuous, with each new version of the Citroen C4, it began to contain more and more new features. The latest versions of the car are thoroughly “stuffed” with various electronics, which sometimes helps out, but sometimes ruffles the nerves, and then the repair of the Citroen C4 becomes necessary. But first things first.

Note that Citroen repair, or rather its necessity, in some moments depends on the configuration of the car. So, the following versions are included in the line of this "Frenchman":

  • Classique
  • Confort
  • Exclusive - a variation for a hatchback
  • VTR, VTR+ and VTR Pack - coupe variation

As for the correct choice of model - this is a personal matter for everyone. Repair of the Citroen C4 Picasso through the time of operation may be needed in the same way as the Citroen C4 Cactus. Therefore, the essence is not so much in the principled choice of model and configuration, but in the knowledge of the weak points of the machine, which, in turn, sometimes need to be paid attention to.

I would like to note in advance that, in general, the Citroen C4 is a prominent car with excellent characteristics both for driving in the city and beyond. But in this article, we will pay more attention not to the advantages of the model, but to the disadvantages, so that potential buyers can see the full picture of the technical capabilities of the machine.

So, Citroen C4 repair is very often associated with automatic transmission malfunctions. Sometimes the valve stops holding, sometimes the entire valve body fails, and it also happens that the band brake completely breaks, as a result, the box simply wedges. No matter how manufacturers fight over this problem, they cannot fully solve it. Therefore, often lovers of the C4 model wisely choose "mechanics".

Video (click to play).

Sometimes a visit to a Citroen C4 car service in St. Petersburg is required due to the failure of the electric seat heating system. The biggest "boom" of this problem occurred in 2008. However, not often, but from time to time, this defect occurs in new models. This is due to the elements of the backrest and cushion system connected together. Therefore, when at least one posting is frayed, the entire system stops working.

The rest of the breakdowns, due to which maintenance of the Citroen C4 is necessary, include the periodic shutdown of the engine temperature sensor, frequent malfunctions of the headlight washers. Yes, and with the generator, mainly due to the effects of chemistry, which road services scatter on the roads, struggling with ice, problems begin in three or four years.

And so the car, of course beautiful, the designers did their best. But you won’t be full of beauty alone, so do not forget to carry out timely maintenance of the Citroen C4, and periodically look at nodes that are prone to weaknesses.

Debut. 2004, Geneva. In 2006 model

BODY. 3 or 5 door hatchback

gasoline -1.4 l, 90 hp; 16 l, 110,120 and 150 hp;

diesel -1.6 l, 90 and 110 hp; 2.0 l. 140 hp

Oassique, Contort, Exclusive. VTR, VTR Pack.

TOTAL DEPENDENCE (Oil change)!

Iodine by the hood you immediately pay attention to the warning sticker: the manufacturer recommends operating fluids only of the Total brand. It will not be difficult to buy them in the metropolis, but in the provinces there may not be any. And if the nearest dealer is hundreds of kilometers from home? Then use liquids of other brands, but be sure to have similar properties. For example, the class of synthetic motor oil must be at least AZ / B4, and mineral water - C2 (according to ACEA).Viscosity index but SAE not lower than 5W-30 for middle and southern latitudes and 0VV-30 for northern ones.

Mining is drained from a warm engine by unscrewing the plug in the oil pan. The edges are very low, and the open-end wrench can “lick” them, so it’s better to work with a “24” head or an “8” tetrahedron - there is a recess in the cork under it. When replacing the filter cartridge, be sure to change the sealing ring (you will find it in the original kit). In order not to turn out when screwing on the cap, lubricate it. We twist the cap with a torque of 25-30 Nm and, of course, exactly along the thread - I warn you, because you can blunder.

There is no dipstick or control plug in the MCP. This is bad, because if oil leaks through the crankcase seals or oil seals, then it is not clear how much to add it. Another thing is if the unit is sealed. Then, unscrewing the drain plug with a “21” key or a “8” square, drain everything to the drop and pour exactly 2 liters of fresh oil through another plug (it is on top of the crankcase). Then, as the manufacturer assures, the level will be normal. According to the official regulations, the oil cannot be changed, but, according to experience, it should be changed every 100,000 km.

The machine also does not have a probe and a control plug. Here they are replaced by a futorka for a “8” hexagon, which is located under the plug on the pallet (it is for a tetrahedron on). Having unscrewed both of these parts on an idle engine, we drain the mining into a measuring container, after which we screw the futorka into place, and then the plug. Through the inverted breather (or a plug on top of the crankcase), fill in fresh oil in a volume of 0.3-0-5 liters more than the drained one and start the engine. After warming it up to 60 * C, we translate the box selector in all positions with a 2-3-second delay in each of them and, leaving the growl in position P, unscrew the drain plug (do not touch the futorka!). The excess will merge, and only the right amount of oil will remain in the unit - along the cut of the upper opening of the futorka. By the way, but according to the previous regulations, the oil was considered “eternal”, but due to the frequent failures of the AL4 box (aka DP0 for Renault and ALA for Peugeot), the first oil change is now provided for 15 thousand km. and the next one is recommended for a run of 90 thousand km. Dealers do not change the filter, rightly believing that the unit will not live up to the third oil change anyway. Say, then, when the box is completely disassembled, we will change the filter, otherwise it is not easy to get close to it - it is behind the pallet and the hydraulic plate.

Have a wide container ready before changing the coolant. There is no drain plug in the radiator, so we will drain it by removing the lower pipe. At the same time, you run the risk of spilling and scalding.

Of course, you can wait until the motor cools down, but then the thermostat valve will open and some of the liquid will remain trapped. However, this part is small. After filling the system, do not forget to remove air plugs from it! For this, two valves under blue caps are designed - one in the heater pipe (near the bulkhead of the front panel), the second on the thermostat housing.

We change the air filter: having released the latch, we pull up the plastic resonator of the air duct, simultaneously removing the corrugation from it. We unscrew the filter housing bolt and loosen the pipe clamp on the throttle assembly. Now we remove the brake reservoir, unscrewed a couple of screws under - Torx-20, and take it aside.

Shaking the body up and down, we shift the pipe from the throttle assembly and take out the body. We turn out the screws around the perimeter and, having removed the cover, change the element. When assembling, make sure that the pipe fits snugly on the throttle assembly!

To replace the spark plugs, unscrew the six self-tapping screws of the engine trim and four bolts of the ignition modules. We remove the crankcase ventilation hoses by pressing the yellow tip retainers. Having lifted the module so that the tips come out of the candle wells, we lay it across the valve cover - in this position it does not block access and is held on the wiring (the connector was not disconnected). Candles - turnkey for 16 ".

There is an automatic in the drive of Attached units, which is great - you can't go wrong with the belt tension force!

For a timing belt, about the same device, but semi-automatic. To set it to working condition, you need to combine the arrow on the movable sector with the front sight on the stationary one. If you have had to change a belt with a similar drive pattern, there will be no difficulties. Another thing, according to the French tradition, there is not a key or a pin in the pulley-crankshaft connection. That is, by unscrewing the central bolt, you can endlessly select the correct position of the shaft with the pulley. Here you can not do without mandrels! There is nothing special about them: drills are also suitable for fixing the camshafts, and a more or less experienced car mechanic can make a hook for the crankshaft from a 6 mm rod. But it is better to entrust this work to specialists.

At the same time, let them change the rear pads - here you need devices for screwing in pistons, which not everyone has. Moreover, in the mechanisms of the Bosch company (they were installed before 2006), the pistons have to be turned in different directions, which means that two devices are required - with a right-hand thread and a left-hand one. It is easier with the front pads, it is only important to orient them correctly: the bevel of the lining should be on top. Of course, do not forget to clean the assembly of wear products and lubricate. And change the guide bolts - they, with locking sealant on the threads, are supplied in the original kit.

Changing the bulbs in the headlights, at first glance, is not difficult. It seems that access is normal, and it is easy to remove the rubber plugs of the case. This is confusing: when some kind of headlight bulb burns out, the owner takes over. It wasn't there! The block sits so tightly that the effort of the fingers is simply not enough, and sticking the brush in order to grab it tighter doesn’t work - it’s not enough. So I want to pull off the connector with pliers. Do not rush - you can easily pull out the landing clip on the reflector with the root. It is better to make the simplest device: we bend a strip of steel 1.5x10x150 mm and form a hook, sharpening the tip on emery under a wedge. We push it into the gap between the block and the lamp and, shaking and moving the mandrel along the perimeter of the block, gradually move it from the lamp. And to understand the principle of fixing the lamp, we use a mirror.

With foglights, the same trouble as on many other cars: there is a lot of dirt in the work area. In addition, here it is necessary to remove the bumper skirt - unscrew seven bolts under the "Torx-20", three turnkey "by 10" and also squeeze out a couple of latches. It is extremely inconvenient to work without a lift.

We remove the lanterns to replace the lamps - sadly, this is the modern trend. Having removed the pockets And taking out two pistons in the trunk lining, bend it and unscrew the plastic lamb. It may not go by hand, and then it is not a sin to use pliers. At the five-door we also remove the reflector, and at the three-door we overcome the grip of the additional lock, pulling the lantern out of the seat.

The maintenance of this machine is below average pleasure, it is the result of the current general tendency to complicate those operations that should be extremely simple. Involuntarily a guess is born; and if so, so that dealers do not remain without work?

SOME REPLACEMENT WORKS

Item name Periodicity thousand km (years)

Engine oil, oil filter 15 (1);

Antifreeze in the cooling system (5);

Fluid in the brake drive (2).

-** - Control at each MOT, replacement according to condition;

-*** - Recommended after 100 thousand km.

APPROXIMATE COST OF INDIVIDUAL WORKS AT DEALERS

Job Cost, rub (USD)

Computer diagnostics of the engine - 800 (27);

Change of engine oil and filter - 640 (22);

Replacing the air / cabin filter - 640/500 (22/17);

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