Do-it-yourself repair of chips on the car paintwork

Over time, during operation, in almost any conditions, small defects of the body or bumpers in the form of scratches and chips appear on the car. This paint damage is not only an aesthetic disadvantage, but also a practical danger to the car body. Therefore, it is advisable to eliminate the chips that have appeared as soon as possible. This will protect the car body from the harmful effects of corrosion. Sometimes, even a small chip, which is practically invisible to others, but knowing about it, it constantly "cuts" your eye, causing constant discomfort. Is it possible to remove chips on the car yourself? Yes, it is possible, and this does not require high qualifications or large financial costs.

Of course, there is the simplest option - to contact a specialist. However, such a seemingly simple operation can be quite expensive, or the quality will be, as they say, even worse than it was, that is, even more noticeable. This also often happens and then you have to pay again and more to correct what you have done. The choice is yours - if there is money and there is no desire to mess around, then it is better not to save, but immediately contact a decent company. Below is an article for those who want and can make minor repairs to their car on their own.

With a large amount of damage, it makes no sense to make a spot body repair. Indeed, in this case, your hood or bumper will be covered with spots or dots with a slightly different color, and the process of spot repair itself will be quite long and laborious. In this case, it is better to paint the entire body part completely. The painting process is quite complicated, but you can also do it yourself. However, whether it will be of better quality and cheaper is up to you. Since this will already require special tools, materials and skills.

If the chips are small and there are not very many of them and there is no metal corrosion, this is exactly what you can quite simply eliminate yourself.

To protect the car body from environmental influences, manufacturers use multi-layer protection, which is a combination of several different materials. The hardened structure of such a coating is shown in the figure. In modern cars, the iron is preliminarily subjected to additional protection - galvanized. Thickness and quality may vary.

Therefore, starting the repair, at least two types of minor damage to the paintwork of a car can be distinguished:

• affected by iron;
• not reaching iron.

The fact is that in each of these cases, the restoration of the paintwork is correct in different ways. If the damage only affects the varnish and paint, for example a shallow scratch, it is enough to treat the area with polish to fix it. In the event that the violation of the paintwork turned out to be deeper, damaged iron, the repair will be a little more difficult.

There are several different approaches as to how to correctly paint over the chips on the car, and each of them has its own supporters and opponents. But in any case, paint is applied to the place of damage, which forms a kind of dome above it, and it must be treated with polish to bring the existing paintwork to the general level. This will make the repaired area less visible. Visibility is most influenced by the accuracy of paint selection.

They are able to remove scratches and chips on the car, which only touch the lacquer surface of the car and do not reach the paint.These products often have abrasive substances in their composition, due to which the top layer of varnish is rubbed off and the surface, leveling out, again becomes supposedly smooth and shiny.

The polishes are selected depending on the size of the scratch. But you should not get carried away with these funds, since you can completely remove the varnish layer.

They allow you to remove scratches from a car, which touch not only the varnish, but also the paint layer. These products fill the damaged surface, thereby protecting it from corrosion.

In addition to the advantages, these funds have a significant drawback: after prolonged exposure to water, they are washed off, and also if you do not have a standard car color (black, white or red), but, for example, light green with a metallic effect, then the scratch will still be visible ...

Eliminates the most serious scratches and chips on the car that have reached metal or ground. The restoration pencil is a tube with automotive paint and a brush.

The colors are usually matched by the color code of the vehicle. A scratch remover is the safest we have reviewed because the paint won't wash off and protects your car from corrosion. The only caveat is that in some specific cases it is difficult to find a tool, since not all coded car paints are in pencils. In such cases, the colors are selected visually from the catalog with real colors.

If the chip is very small, take a match or toothpick and apply a drop of paint to the washed and dry area of ​​the chip. When the paint has hardened a little, you can smooth it out with a small brush. The paint is selected according to the number of the car from the colorists or according to the car part (for example, the fuel filler flap). Over time, the paint burns out a little, therefore, the method of selection for a car part is more preferable.
You also need a little varnish and a hardener to it, In the right proportions, mix the paint with varnish and hardener. Tint with a small margin. After drying, for at least a day, it is polished with a professional polish 3M, You can trim it with two thousandth sandpaper before polishing.

In this case, the repair of the chip will be more difficult and time-consuming, since it is necessary to remove the processes of corrosion and rust propagation that have begun. To do this, you need to use traditional body repair, which removes rust and allows you to locally paint over the part without visible differences from the rest of the body.

To repair such a chip, you will need sandpaper with a grit of 600, 800 and 1000, possibly putty, primer and paint, as well as tools for applying them, and a solvent for degreasing. The process of work in this case is as follows:

• First, it is necessary to clean up the local chip on the car, taking into account the possible spread of corrosion under the paint.
• Rust must be removed to metal, then the surface must be rinsed and degreased. It is advisable to treat the places where the removal of corrosion has been carried out with a primer. You can use an acrylic two-component spray primer. It will be required for these works a few drops. Apply a thin brush or a sharpened match to the metal. After 10-15 minutes, apply a second layer. After that, they wait about 2 hours until the soil is completely dry or accelerate it by heating.
• If necessary, apply a filler, let it dry and use 600 and 800 grit sandpaper to adjust the surface to specifications.
• Degrease the surface again and, if necessary, apply a primer, which must then be washed off with 1000 sandpaper and water.
• After that, the final degreasing and painting of the body part or the chip site takes place.

The paint is applied using a marker or brush - this operation requires some care.It is not advisable to apply the paint in a thick layer, preferably several times, but thinly and accurately. It is best to work in a garage or in the shade rather than "in direct sunlight." If the area is large enough, a spray or spray can be used. When painting in this way, be careful not to hit other parts of your vehicle with the spray. For this you can use masking tape and old newspapers. After the paint is completely dry, you can polish it.
Many also apply car varnish, believing that doing so will improve the visual quality of the car's paint job. However, under varnish, any difference in paint becomes more noticeable, therefore it is advisable to use varnish only with a perfectly matched paint, or not use it for small local repairs.

According to the Dr.ColorChip technology, paints used for local repair differ in their composition from traditional repair kits, selected by the color code of the car. The formula of Dr. ColorChip provides the ability to quickly dry paint without the use of cameras or other dryers. To remove excess paint, Dr. Colorchip Sealac, which is applied to a napkin and polished by hand until all excess paint is removed, then stains from the SealAct solution are wiped off with a microfiber towel.

Everything you need is included. Quite quickly and simply - the price of the issue - find out on the Internet. Reviews are different, often do not match the color. If you choose this option, read more on the forums.

Naturally, from all of the above methods and means for removing chips and scratches, one should not expect a completely perfect result. But if you compare the price-quality ratio and labor costs, then these are quite effective methods and are suitable in most cases.

The car body is a part that requires care and careful handling. Careless driving, poor road quality and other factors are often the causes of defects in the car's paintwork. The appearance of small chips on the paintwork requires repair, because it spoils the appearance of the machine and causes further damage. Therefore, drivers sometimes need information on how to remove chips on the car body.

Not a single car owner is insured against damage to the paintwork. In addition to careless driving, chips on a car appear for the following reasons:

• adverse weather conditions - hail, temperature drops;
• a road strewn with rubble;
• insects crashing into the car at full speed;
• carelessness of others, physical damage;
• incorrect car wash.

The car owner does not notice the formation of small paint chips. Only a careful examination of the body after a trip and cleaning the car from dirt helps to find possible defects. If they are found, it is advisable to repair the body as soon as possible. Leaving minor damage unattended is fraught with consequences.

Microdamages violate the integrity of the paintwork and become the reason for its further corrosion, and an increase in the area of ​​the defect will make repairs expensive. While waiting, the situation will be aggravated by the beginning of the rusting of the body. Damaged paint will not inhibit metal oxidation. In this case, the car body will require a long and costly professional repair.

The paintwork of a car consists of a primer, paint and a transparent varnish that serves as additional protection. Some paints already have varnish in their composition, so they do not require additional protection. In terms of depth, the chips on the machine are divided into damage:

• varnish;
• varnish and paint;
• varnish, paint and primer.

By type, paintwork defects are divided into:

• traces of polishing;
• "Cobwebs" - minor damage to the upper layer;
• water marks - small but visible defects on the varnish layer;
• some small scratches;
• deep scratches;

Repair is required when damage occurs to each layer, and not just scratches that have reached the ground. Small chips are much easier to repair.

Before proceeding directly to the repair, it is necessary to find all the chips on the body and assess the damage. To do this, you should carefully inspect the car, especially in the area of ​​the front bumper, headlights and radiator.

In order to properly restore a car, you should assess the general condition, determine if the soil is damaged. If the damage is not too serious, it makes sense to start repairing yourself with the help of specialized tools. There are the following ways to restore paintwork:

• restoration of varnish with polish;
• restoration of paint with a brush;
• using an aerosol can;
• repair of chipped paintwork of a car using varnish.

Before starting to apply coatings, it is required to thoroughly clean the surface from corrosion. The place of damage should be cleaned from dirt. Using sanding paper to smooth the surface, create a base for the coating.

Never use a rust converter. When applied, a stain will appear on the site of corrosion even after painting.

Next, the main restorative coating is applied. There are different methods of application, so we will consider them in more detail below.

The last step is sanding and polishing the surface. Sanding is done with P2000 paper using a rigid backing and polishing with polishing paste and a cloth. To evaluate the result obtained, it is most convenient to use water and make sure that it spreads evenly over the surface.

This restoration method is used to remove small chips on the machine. Shallow damages are covered with a special paste, anti-scratch, after drying. This helps to stop further corrosion and make the chips less noticeable. The main advantages are the simplicity of execution and the reliability of the coating. Among the disadvantages is the duration of the work.

Some car owners prefer to periodically polish the entire body. This allows you to get rid of subtle defects in the early stages, prevent further corrosion and renew the appearance of the car, giving it a shine like after painting.

Chipping with polishing paste will be noticeable if:

• in case of damage to a large area, the shade changes to matte;
• for deep scratches, the coating will not give an effective result.

This method refers to the restoration conditionally. Pencils are most often used as temporary removal of chips. This is the easiest way to repair chips on a car body with your own hands. There are three types of restoration pencils available:

• wax;
• gel corrector;
• coloring pencil.

Wax stick - used to remove chips of any depth. In appearance and method of application, it resembles lipstick. The composition of the substances of such pencils contains a corrosion inhibitor, so it is a reliable, but short-lived protection. For temporary repairs, coat the surface with a pencil without cleaning it from corrosion.

Concealer gel - the ability to do without polish for the restoration of paintwork. The liquid in such a pencil has a high viscosity and hardens for a long time. After the restoration of the defect with such a pencil, the surface does not visually differ from other areas.

Coloring pencil - a bottle of paint, ready to use. It works well to cover up small chips on the car or light damage. Particularly sensitive to corrosion. After use, the surface is recommended to be varnished and polished.

The optimal tool for eliminating large-area chips. It is made after sanding and cleaning the damaged area from the old paintwork layer.With the right color matching, the painted areas do not differ from the rest of the body.

Spray paint lasts longer than pencil paint thanks to even application. An additional advantage is the ability to paint over hard-to-reach areas.

In addition to paint, the spray cans have an auto-primer, which is necessary for painting small but deep chips. There is also acrylic paint that does not require varnish.

Varnish is the top protective layer of the coating. In case of serious damage, opening with polish is not enough. After local repair of the chip, varnish is required.

The surface is coated with varnish after the paint has completely dried. The varnish is applied in several thin layers before the surface of the damaged area slightly protrudes beyond the level of the outer part of the paintwork. After that, the unevenness is corrected by leveling the surface with the help of grinding.

Neglected defects cause corrosion. If the damage has reached the metal, an urgent repair of the chip on the car body is required.

To remove such a flaw, sand the surface around it with coarse sandpaper. In order for the paint to lay down better, the boundaries of the restored area must be flat. After cleaning the surface, treat it with a primer and wait for the layer to dry.

It is advisable to seal the chip with paint containing varnish, since when it is coated over the paint layer, the place of elimination of the defect will be noticeable.

To eliminate defects on the body, special kits are sold in car dealerships. These include primer, paint and varnish, and coating brushes. The body chip repair kit has a wide range of colors and allows you to repair almost any defects and scratches.

If minor damages are found on the car body, do not leave them unattended. Careful handling of the machine, as well as timely repairs, will keep the paintwork of the machine in good condition for more than 10 years.

On any freeway, there is a pebble that, flying out from under the wheels, hits the car body with the energy of a bullet fired from a small-bore rifle. As a result, chips are formed - point damage to the paintwork of different depths (from tenths of a micrometer to a millimeter) with bare metal. They are not as harmless as they seem.

Corrosion of the body usually begins from this place. In addition, the car has a sloppy appearance and significantly loses in value. We suggest you familiarize yourself with how to repair chips on a car body using the technology of Nussle (Germany), which is engaged in body repair and the production of professional tools for repairing dents without painting.

If you are not particularly interested in high-quality elimination of chips, then you can take a thin brush, nitro enamel of a suitable color and paint over the damage. For those who do not think a light spotting of the car is a good idea, you should do differently, spending up to three days to repair the chip.

Works are carried out in dry and heated garages. In extreme cases, repair work can be done in the summer. The room must be electrified. Alternatively, find a portable power generator.

Electricity will allow you to well illuminate the place of work and connect an infrared heater. Before starting work, you need to acquire some tools and supplies.

• acrylic paints for outdoor use. You can use water-soluble or Gifthalic;
• two-component acrylic primers;
• two-component acrylic varnish;
• waterproof sandpaper P1500 and P2000;
• final polishing paste;
• magnifying glass;
• a metal tool with sharp ends - a tool knife, a hook, and the like. You can make them yourself;
• portable infrared emitter. For example, Ballu BHH / M-09.

Repairing chips is a good reason to thoroughly wash your car. Work begins after complete drying. The repair area is thoroughly degreased, even if you used a cleaner like Fairy when cleaning. White spirit is best suited for this.

The light should be placed so that the place of work is not obscured by hands and tools. So use two or three sources.

First you need to determine the type of paint coat on your car. Not all bodies are lacquered. On budget models, a glossy enamel film is formed during hot drying. Evaluation is done with a clean cloth and a drop of polishing paste, which should be rubbed over the body without using significant force. If there are colored stains on the cloth, then there is no varnish, there is only pigment.

Assess the extent of the damage with a magnifying glass. If the chip has reached the metal, then it is better to assume that the corrosion has already begun.

When working with a chip, a miniature tool and literally homeopathic portions of materials are used - primer, paint, varnish, rust modifiers.

Trace the area with a colored wax crayon to keep it in view.

Clean the metal underneath the chip using the sharp end of the wire and the tip of a tool knife. Place a drop of rust modifier. Turn on the infrared heater, wait for the moment when the body part is noticeably heated, and the place of repair is completely dry.

Clean the repair site with P1500 sanding paper, making a matte “patch” with a diameter of about 8 cm around the chip. In order not to capture a larger surface, take a piece of wooden lath the size of a matchbox and wrap it with sandpaper.

Dilute a small amount of 2K acrylic primer. It can be drained into a container from an aerosol can. Using a toothpick, sharpened match, or a fine-tipped brush, place the soil inside the chip so that it is half full. Use the infrared heater again and wait until the applied material is completely dry. It can shrink, so the priming process is repeated.

If the car is new, then it makes sense to find the paint code, which is written on the model nameplate, next to the VIN code. Each manufacturer finds a special place for it, but in most cases it is installed under the hood, on the shield between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment. As an option - the lower rear corner of the front door, the B-pillar. After two to three years of operation, the color of the paint becomes less saturated. But the lighter the car, the more likely you will be in tone using the factory markings.

It is a common misconception that automobile paints are habitually called "nitro paint". Pigment formulations based on dissolved cellulose (hence the root "nitro") are not currently used. All modern car paints are produced on an acrylic base. They can be water-soluble or Gifthalic containing an alkyd resin that acts as a binder.

The paint, which is considered "native" for a car, is probably gift-colored; when it dries, it forms a durable waterproof film and does not require additional varnish. An indispensable condition for its use is thermal curing. Therefore, after application - the process is similar to a primer - the place of repair is necessarily warmed up by an infrared emitter. It should be warm to the touch. Complete drying time from 5 to 10 hours. At temperatures below 20 ° C, this paint will completely polymerize after a month.

It makes sense to use water-soluble acrylic paints for outdoor use in two cases:

• the paintwork changed its tone during operation;
• the finishing layer is varnish.

Water-soluble paints can be mixed with each other to achieve the desired shade. Moisture will not be able to penetrate the primer layer and cause corrosion. Although they form a strong waterproof film after complete drying, it is best to apply a layer of two-component acrylic varnish on top of them.

It is not necessary to use an infrared emitter to dry a layer of water-borne acrylic paint or two-component varnish. In this case, it will take at least two days for complete curing.

As a result of the sequential filling of the chip with layers of primer, paint and varnish, a pimple with a height of no more than two or three tenths of a millimeter should appear on the surface of the part being repaired. To get rid of it, they carry out finishing.

The surface around the pimple is painted with any paint that can be easily washed off. For example, water-dispersion. This will allow you to precisely control the position of the abrasive paper and not sand down what you should not.

First, an abrasive paper P1500 is taken. It is fixed on a small wooden block the size of a matchbox and is slightly moistened. Grind the bump until streaks appear on the surface of the control paint. Check the quality of the work by sliding your finger along the tubercle. Ideally, you shouldn't feel the difference between it and the rest of the surface.

The protective paint is washed off, the sandpaper 1500 is replaced with P2000, which finally smoothes the protrusion. The surface remains matt. Polishing is done with a paste applied to a soft cloth made of natural material. For example, flannel, bikes, felt. The felt pad is too rough for this job.

The technology offered by Nussle is a long and painstaking process. But time and effort will not be wasted. The place of the former chip is no different from the rest of the body surface.