Do-it-yourself furrier machine repair

The furrier machine is used not only for tailoring fur clothes in production or ateliers. Often, a furrier machine is used at home. One of these common models is the class 10-B furrier machine.
How is the furrier machine 10B arranged? How does it differ from household furrier machines Runo, Aurora? How to sew fur skins on a furrier machine? How to set up and simple repair of a furrier machine 10B?
These and other questions are discussed in this article.

If you already own a furrier machine, or are just about to buy a (new or used) fur sewing machine, then this article is for you. Perhaps it will help you to carry out minor repairs on your own, adjust the parameters of the looper and needle of the furrier machine, install a household electric drive instead of a bulky industrial drive, etc.
Many of the recommendations for setting up and repairing will also work for other brands of household furriers, since they work on the same principle.
The furrier machine 10-B, Orsha, Runo-2 and Rus-1 have a similar design and are designed for sewing medium and thin skins: rabbit, marmot, lambskin, ferret, cat, zigeyka, etc.
Machines of the Runo and Rus series can be produced in a domestic version.

Industrial furrier machines manufactured by Strobel are furrier machines designed for mass industrial production of fur clothing. They differ from household furrier machines in the presence of a bulky table and many devices, the presence of additional functions, for example, pneumatic laying of the hairline of fur skins. This is a machine of narrow specialization and is not used at home.
The price for industrial furrier equipment is many times different from domestic furrier machines. And this is one of the reasons why industrial furrier machines are rarely used in everyday life.

The furrier machine for stitching fur skins uses only one thread, which is tucked into the needle. The thread is removed from the needle by the looper, and after that a loop is formed on the looper, which is now removed from the looper by the needle. Removing “from each other”, the looper and the needle form the same thread as a furry stitch.
The furry seam is easily unraveled, so after finishing sewing the fur, the last stitch must be fixed.
To make the furrier seam strong, it is not necessary to use thick threads. If you break the furrier seam, then it will not break the thread, but the mezra. In addition, thin, elastic, but strong threads will facilitate the formation of a stitch. See Sewing threads, which are better.

The needle thread (A) from the bobbin mounted on the stand enters the thread guide (B), the tension regulator (C) and from the thread guide (E) under the pin (E), into the clamp (G). The thread is guided into the wire thread guide (3) and into the eye of the needle from the bottom up.
When the furrier machine is operating, the clamp (G) interacts with a rod having an inclined plane, the rod of which, when the needle leaves the material, presses the clamp (G), reducing the tension of the thread.
When the needle reaches the extreme forward position, the first stage of tightening the thread in the stitch takes place, and the second, when the needle loop is expanded by the looper.
The timeliness of the release of the thread can be adjusted by the position of the rod that squeezes the clamp (G), moving it forward or backward in the body of the furrier machine.
The needle thread tension is adjusted in the tension adjuster (B) by turning the tension nut.

With the seeming simplicity of the device, the 10B furrier machine is considered to be quite complex and “capricious” in setting up a sewing machine. It is sometimes quite difficult even for a professional adjuster to set it up. As a rule, the furrier machine malfunctions due to inept sewing, in which the needle bends and sometimes the position of the looper goes astray. This happens if the edge of the sewn-in mezra sticks out above the prescribed level (see the instructions for your machine). The looper touches the edge of the stitched parts of the fur and often loses its settings. The needle also “creeps” up and bends and even breaks.
The fact is that the technology of sewing fur involves the use of different “numbers” of furrier machines of the same brand. For tailoring fur skins of different thicknesses, the corresponding model number of the same brand of furrier machine is used, from 1 to 4.
In everyday life and ateliers, as a rule, a furrier universal machine of the 2nd number is used. But fur skins come in different finishes, sometimes very thin, sometimes too thick, and then the machine starts to malfunction.
The instructions for the furrier machine should contain recommendations on the use of needles, threads, as well as the thickness of the sewn leather fabric of the fur.

Adjustment parameters of the furrier machine 10-B:
When capturing the needle loop, the looper nose must pass behind the upper edge of the eye of the needle (away from itself) at a distance of H = 1.2 mm, moving from right to left.
The needle, by the moment of capture, should move from the extreme forward position (away from itself) to a distance S = 3.4 mm.
The gap between the looper nose and the needle blade should be minimum = 0.1. 0.15 mm.

Having captured the loop from the needle, the looper expands it and transfers it over the edge of the skin to be sewn.
After the needle exits the material, the pressure discs move the skins to the right.
The looper blade, falling behind the processed edge of the fur skin, swings towards the needle, as close as possible to it. At the moment the needle grabs the thread from the looper blade, the distance between the needle and the looper blade is D = 0.3 mm.

The correct position of the needle in the direction of its longitudinal movement is regulated by screws R (2 pcs.).
The correct position of the needle is considered when, when the needle is displaced, from the position closest to the operator by S = 3.4 mm, the distance from the eye of the needle to the nose of the looper is H = 1.2 mm.
After loosening the screws, the needle bar moves along with the needle bar and needle.
The timeliness of the approach of the looper nose is regulated by turning the eccentric Q. First, you need to loosen the screws securing the eccentric L (2 pcs.) On the main shaft.
The position of the looper relative to the needle (in the longitudinal direction) is adjusted by loosening the looper fixing screw. The looper should approach the needle when it forms a needle loop.

When grinding, fur skins are folded hairline to each other. The hair protruding above the processed edge is tucked in with the thumb of the left hand or with an awl inward between the skins.
The workpieces are held by the right hand and, with the outer disk pressed, are installed between both disks.
To eliminate the stretching of the edges of the details of fur skins, especially when sewing long connecting lines, the edges are pre-equalized, both parts of the fur skins are fastened in some places with clamps (or swept with a rare stitch along the entire length of the seam). If necessary, the parts can be planted by pressing the unconnected edges to one of the disks.
The stitch should tightly connect the workpieces so that the seam from the side of the hairline is invisible.
The seamstress has the opportunity, at the end of the operation, to bring the shaft with his left or right hand, rotating one of the pulleys.

The 10B furrier is equipped with a table and an industrial electric motor, which has increased noise and power consumption.Instead of an industrial electric motor, you can put a household electric drive from a sewing machine by making a homemade mount for it. Its power is quite enough for sewing even sheepskin skins.
Another device is the lever for retracting the clamping discs. By installing it as shown in the photo, you no longer need a table, and the 10-B industrial furrier machine becomes portable.

The furrier machine must be periodically lubricated and filled with an oil can into the oil receiver located on the lid of the machine.
If you do not have instructions, you can follow a simple rule - lubricate any rubbing parts.
The oil flows through the wicks to the hinges and lubricates them. From time to time it is necessary to open the cover of the machine and drip oil into the hinges of the advance mechanism, the shafts of the discs and other rubbing units of the furrier machine remote from the cover.

Fur technology
Fur skins are sewn both with a hand furrier seam and on a furrier machine. The furrier machine makes the seam elastic and strong. The needle pierces the leather tissue only once, in contrast to the furrier's manual seam. A well-tuned furrier sews skins quickly and efficiently. The only drawback is that the last stitch must be secured.

Skin Care Recommendations
A furrier machine can connect not only fur skins. For various decorative work, a fur stitch can be used instead of a lockstitch sewing machine.

Needles for hand sewing
At home, most often fur skins are sewn by hand. To do this, you only need a good needle and high-quality threads. About the current which needle to choose for laying a manual furrier seam can be found in this article.

Industrial machines 1022, class 22
The furrier machine 10-B, the sewing machine of the 22nd class is a “set” of sewing machines of any fur studio. Despite their age, these machines do a good job of tailoring fur and leather products in small-scale production, ateliers. Furrier 10-B has not undergone technical reconstruction at all. Until now, many household furrier machines of any brand are produced on the basis of the industrial furrier machine 10B.

Industrial Cover Stitch Machine If you are interested in an industrial furrier machine, then you might be wondering how an industrial cover stitch machine works. This machine can become indispensable for mass tailoring of knitwear.

Do you have a sewing machine and love to sew? Then this site is for you. Professional masters will tell you how to carry out minor repairs to a sewing, knitting machine. Experienced technologists will share the secrets of tailoring. Review articles will tell you which sewing or knitting machine to buy, an iron mannequin and many other useful tips you will find on our website.
Thank you for viewing the page in its entirety.

furrier sewing machine used to work with leather, fur and other materials that conventional machines cannot handle. Such machines are widely used in factories, ateliers, as well as at home. The advantage of a furrier machine compared to a conventional machine is the horizontal stroke of the needle, as well as the invisibility of the seam after sewing. Before you buy a furrier sewing machine, you should consult with a specialist, because each type of fur needs a special machine and on your own, it is almost impossible to make the right choice. You can buy both industrial and household furrier machine.

The principle of operation for all furrier machines is almost the same, so it will not be difficult for you to work on one or another model of this device. For example, machines 10-B, Orsha, Runo-2 and Rus-1 are similar to each other in their design and are used for sewing thin skins, for example, rabbit, marmot, etc.

Models of furrier sewing devices

At first glance, it may seem that the furrier machine is very easy to use, and accordingly, many people think that its tincture will not be difficult, but this is not so. Ease of use is not always easy to set up, even professionals often find it difficult to quickly set up this "capricious" device. The most common causes of failure of the furrier machine is its improper use, as a result of which the needle bends, the looper goes astray and other problems appear. The reason for the failure of the looper is often that it touches the edge of the fur part, and thereby knocks down the settings.

In order for you not to have problems with working with a furrier machine, you need to choose the right model for it. In accordance with the thickness of the fur, the model number of the furrier machine is selected, from one to four. At home, as well as in small studios, I use a furrier machine of the second number. Due to different dressing of the skin and thickness, the machine may fail. Therefore, before you start sewing a particular product, you need to carefully read the instructions for the machine, which contains recommendations on the use of threads, needles and the thickness of the fur.

Caring for a Furrier Sewing Machine

In order for the car not to let you down at the wrong time, it is worth ensuring that it is properly cared for. It is recommended to periodically lubricate the rubbing parts, in order to make this process easier, you can use a syringe instead of an oiler.

You should also not forget that rubbing parts that are under the cover, for example, disk shafts, hinges, etc., need lubrication.

1 OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS FOR VELLES VF202/302

2 Contents Parts of the machine. Description. Specifications. Preparation for work. Operation and setup. Troubleshooting and care. Accessories , 7, 8 9, 10, 11, 12 12, 13 14

3 (Fig. 1) 1. Bobbin stand pin 2. Thread guide 3. Oil filling screw 4. Spherical oil indicator 5. Machine top cover 6. Belt guard 7. Looper holder 8. Disk gap adjustment screw 9. Looper 10. Bracket pressure plate 11. Drive plate 12. Pressure plate 13. Disc release lever 14. Needle plate 15. Oil level indicator 16. Needle 17. Loop pin 18. Drip tray 19. Body 20. Stitch length adjustment knob 21. Handwheel 22. Base bobbin stand 23. Thread tension unit 24. bobbin lock 25. bobbin pin 1

4 Description The VF series furriers are single-thread, chainstitch, high-speed sewing machines for sewing furs and leathers. Are applied: for stitching of fur of any thickness; sewing gloves; sports shoe insoles; hats, etc. These machines are reliable and easy to operate, ideal for modern sewing. Model VF202 VF302 Needle plate YES YES General use For sewing various kinds of medium weight fur and leather garments For sewing thick fur leather garments and suede garments. For sewing thick fur leather and suede products. 2

5 Specifications Specification VF202 VF302 Maximum sewing speed (sti/min) Stitch length(mm) Needle bar travel(mm) Looper travel(mm) Presser disk travel(mm) Maximum layer thickness(mm) 3.5 4.5 Maximum material thickness( mm) Needle size 3.5 4.5 DBx1 DBx Motor specifications 220V, 250W 220V, 250W Net weight (kg) 17.5 17.5 Gross weight (kg) Machine head size (mm) 340x260x 260x255 Packing size (mm) 430x310x x310x370 3

6 Preparing for work 1. Cleaning the machine of oil. After unpacking the machine, wipe the surface of the machine free of rust prevention grease with a soft cloth. 2. Machine check. Despite the machine being firmly packed, there is a possibility that the machine has been damaged or dislodged during transport or handling.Therefore, it is necessary to carefully inspect it and turn the flywheel (clockwise) to ensure that parts of the machine are not damaged, displaced, lost or hard to turn, if any, they should be reinstalled or replaced with new ones. 3. Lubrication. one). The insides of the machine are automatically lubricated by an oil pump. At the factory, the oil has been removed from the head before packaging. Therefore, before starting work, the head must be filled with sewing machine oil supplied with the machine. The oil is filled to the level between the two red lines H1 and H2. (see Fig. 2). (Fig. 2) 4

7 2) Lubricate the lower bushing of the driving disc with a small oiler while turning the disc. Usually, one turn is enough to lubricate it. (see Fig. 3) (Fig. 3) 3). Lubrication of a new machine must be changed after it starts working within half a month. Then the lubricant can be changed every six months. (see fig. 4) (fig. 4) 5

8 4. Installation (assembly) of the assembled machine. one). Take the machine out of the package. Place a shock-absorbing rubber pad on the table. 2). Mount the bobbin stand on the machine body. (see fig. 5) (fig. 5) 6

9 3).Install the pedal of the machine under the table on the floor and connect it to the machine. (see Fig.6) (Fig.6) 4). Place the bobbin of thread on the bobbin stand so that the hook of the bobbin stand is directly above the bobbin of thread. 7

10 5. Trial run of the machine. one). After completing the assembly of the machine, plug the pedal into the mains socket and gently depress the pedal. The flywheel should rotate in the direction of the arrow on the belt cover. The more you press the pedal, the faster the sewing speed. 2). After starting the machine, look at the spherical oil flow indicator (see Fig. 7) and check that the oil is flowing. If oil is flowing, the oil system is good. Then, let the machine idle for 15 minutes, starting at low speed and gradually increasing it. Notice if anything is out of the ordinary during the test run. Only if everything is fine, you can sew on the machine. (fig. 7) 6. Threading. The thread is threaded in accordance with Fig. 8. (Fig. 8) 8

11 Operation and setting 1. Installing the needle. When installing or replacing the needle, push it in as far as it will go while turning the eye of the needle up so that the small notch is on top. Then tighten the screw that secures the needle. (See Fig. 9) (Fig. 9) 2. Thread tension adjustment. Thread tension directly affects stitch density. The quality of the seam is mainly determined by the tension of the thread in relation to the material being sewn. The thread tension should be set according to the thickness of the material, the thickness of the thread and the quality of the material. If the material is thick, the tension should be weaker. If it is thin and soft, the tension may be slightly loose. After threading the thread, first adjust the thread tension for trial sewing (see Fig. 8) before the thread becomes taut when you pull it by hand. Then adjust the thread tension, paying attention to the density of the stitches. (Fig. 8) 9

12 3. Stitch length adjustment. The adjustment knob is located on the left side of the machine (when viewed from the workplace). Turn the knob counterclockwise to increase and clockwise to decrease the stitch length. (See Fig. 10) (Fig. 10) 4. Pressure plate pressure adjustment. The pressure of the pressure disc on the material can be adjusted by turning the knurled nut (A) on the right rear side of the machine. (See Fig. 11) (Fig. 11) 5. Lubrication amount adjustment. the amount of lubrication can be adjusted by adjusting the screw located at the top of the machine body, under the top cover. (see fig. 12) (fig. 12) 10

13 6. Adjusting the clearance between the needle and the looper. one). The lateral side of the rod and is perpendicular to the drive disk. (see Fig. 13) 2). For a disk that presses the material with a needle plate, the needle must be centered in the slot in the needle plate. (see fig. 14) (fig. 13) (fig.14) 3). The gap between the straight needle and the feed disc is 0.1-0.15mm. (see Fig. 15) 4). The proper gap between the looper and the needle is shown in Fig. ). The clearance between the looper and the needle during thread engagement is shown in fig. The extreme position of the needle and looper at the maximum reach is shown in fig. 18 and the attached table. (Fig. 15) (Fig. 16) (Fig. 17) (Fig. 18) 11

14 A B C VF202 0.1 17.5 8 VF302 0.1 21 9.1 Troubleshooting and Maintenance 1. Troubleshooting. Problem Cause Solution Broken needle 1). Dull, twisted or rusty needle. Replace needle. 2). Broken by the looper. Adjust the positions of the needle and looper relative to each other. 3) Fine needle when sewing thin material Change the needle of the material. 4) Raising the feed disk (offset Adjust the positions of the needle plate). clearance between the feed disk and the needle or correct the needle plate Broken thread 1). Wrong threading Thread correctly 2). Thread tension too Adjust the force is strong or the opening time of the thread tension and the screw is not correct and the opening time of the tension screw is 12

16 Accessories 1. Wrench 1 pc. 2. Hex Key 1pc 3. Screwdriver 1pc 4. Tweezers with a curved end 1 pc. 5. Tool box 6. Manual 7. Sewing machine oil 8. Electric pedal 1 pc. 9. Babinstand assembly 1 pc. 10. Soft case 1pc 14

PURPOSE OF THE MACHINE AND TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS.

The 4-4 series of machines is one of the new products produced by the GEMSY factory, designed for use by large and small factories for sewing fur and clothes, leather goods and shoes, caps and toys, small ateliers and individual tailors, various works with mink, fox fur , yellow weasel, rabbit, dog, leopard, bear, etc. The machine is equipped with a box-shaped frame, needle thread take-up, looper, presser feet, feed mechanism, and automatic lubrication system. The machine is high-speed, has high power when sewing fur.

1) Maximum shaft speed.

2) Stitch type: #501 single thread overlock.

4) Motor power: friction motor 0.37KW, 250V.

6) Thread: No. 20-120 cotton, shiny cotton thread or synthetic fiber thread.

7) Weight, kg: head 18, total weight of the machine 65.

8) Machine dimensions, mm: 1000x500x1190.

9) Dimensions of the head, mm: 307x274x255.

USER MANUAL.

1. READ CAREFULLY BEFORE USING.

1) Before using a new or unused machine for a long time, wipe off dust and grease from it. Then check if there is enough oil in the sump. If you need to change the oil, remove the connecting screw of the machine head and the support plate and the two pivot screws under the table, pour out the remaining oil, wash the sump with kerosene. After that, tighten the removed screws, open the top cover, fill in fresh oil to the level marked with a strip (Fig. 2).

2) Slowly turn the hand wheel counterclockwise by hand before starting the motor, check if the rotation is synchronous and easy, then try to sew a few stitches.

1) Move the needle bar to its most forward position by turning the handwheel counterclockwise, and loosen the needle lock screw (11), insert the needle into the notch so that its long groove faces down and its end reaches the position screw, then tighten the screw.

If you have a class 10-B furrier machine or you are going to buy such a used sewing machine, since new ones are no longer being produced, then this article will help you make minor repairs, adjusting some of its parameters. Many tuning recommendations are also suitable for household furrier machines, since they have the same principle of operation. The furrier machine 10-B, Orsha, Runo-2 and Rus-1 have a similar design and are designed for sewing medium and thin skins: rabbit, marmot, lambskin, ferret, cat, zigeyka, etc. Machines of the Runo and Rus series can be produced in a domestic version.
Industrial furrier machines of the “Strobel” type, designed for mass production, differ from household ones in the presence of a bulky table, additional functions, such as pneumatic styling of fur hairline when sewing, and a narrow specialization.The price of industrial furrier equipment is several times different from household equipment, and apparently, therefore, they are rarely used in everyday life.

Needle thread A from the bobbin mounted on the stand enters the thread guide B, the tension regulator C and from the thread guide D under the pin E, clamp G. The thread is passed into the wire thread guide H and into the eye of the needle from the bottom up. During the operation of the furrier machine, the clamp W interacts with a rod having an inclined plane, the rod of which, when the needle leaves the material, presses the clamp W, reducing the tension of the thread. When the needle reaches the extreme forward position, the first stage of tightening the thread in the stitch occurs, and the second when the needle loop is expanded by the looper.
The timeliness of the release of the thread can be adjusted by the position of the rod that depresses the clamp G, shifting it forward or backward in the body of the furrier machine. The needle thread tension is adjusted in the tension dial B by turning the knurled nut.

Despite the seeming simplicity of the device, the furrier machine 10B is considered to be rather complicated and capricious in setting up, and to be honest, it is quite difficult even for a professional to set it up. As a rule, the furrier machine malfunctions due to inept sewing, in which the needle bends and sometimes the position of the looper goes astray. This happens if the edge of the sewn mezra protrudes above the prescribed level (see the instructions for your machine), the looper touches it and gets knocked off, and the needle creeps up and bends.
The fact is that for tailoring fur of different thicknesses of leather fabric, the corresponding model number of the same brand of furrier model is used, from 1 to 4. In everyday life and ateliers, as a rule, No. 2 is used. But the fur skin is different. Sometimes very thin, sometimes too thick and then the machine starts to malfunction. The instructions for the furrier machine should contain recommendations on the use of needles, threads, as well as the thickness of the sewn leather fabric of the fur skin.

Adjustment options. When capturing the needle loop, the looper nose must pass behind the upper edge of the eye of the needle at a distance H = 1.2 mm, moving from right to left. The needle, by the time of capture, should move from the extreme forward position to a distance S = 3. 4 mm. The gap between the looper nose and the needle blade should be minimum = 0.1. 0.15mm.

Having captured the loop from the needle, the looper expands it and transfers it over the edge of the skin to be sewn. After the needle exits the material, the pressure discs move the skins to the right. The looper blade, descending behind the processed edge of the fur skin, swings towards the needle, as close as possible to it. At the moment the needle grabs the thread from the looper blade, the distance between the needle and the looper blade is D = 0.3mm.

The correct position of the needle in the direction of its longitudinal movement is regulated by screws R (2 pcs). The correct position of the needle is considered when, when the needle is displaced from the extreme position closest to the operator, by S = 3.4 mm. The distance from the eye of the needle to the nose of the looper H =1. 2mm. After loosening the screws, the needle bar moves along with the needle holder and needle. The timeliness of the approach of the looper nose is adjusted by turning the eccentric Q, loosening the screws fastening the eccentric L (2pcs) on the main shaft. The position of the looper relative to the needle (in the longitudinal direction) is adjusted by loosening the looper fixing screw. The looper should come to the needle when the needle forms a needle loop.

When stitching the skins, you must first prepare them by cutting off the edge and cutting off (if their area is large) the fur along the edge. When grinding, the skins are folded with the hair surface to each other. The fur protruding above the processed edge is tucked in between the skins with the thumb of the left hand. The workpieces are held by the right hand and, when the disk is pressed, are installed between the disks.To eliminate the stretching of the edges of the parts, especially when sewing long connecting lines, the edges are pre-equalized, fastened in some places with clamps (or swept with a rare stitch along the entire length of the seam), if necessary, fitting the part. The stitch should tightly connect the workpieces so that the seam from the side of the hairline is invisible. The seamstress has the opportunity, at the end of the operation, to bring the shaft with his left or right hand, rotating one of the pulleys. Thread breakage at the end of the operation is carried out when it is on the looper, which does not lead to self-dissolution of the line.

Furrier 10 B is equipped with a table and an industrial electric motor, which has increased noise and power consumption. Instead of an industrial electric motor, you can put a household electric drive from a sewing machine by making a homemade mount. Its power is enough for sewing even sheepskin.
Another device is the lever for retracting the clamping discs. By installing it as shown in the photo, you no longer need a table and the machine will become portable.

The furrier machine must be periodically lubricated and filled with an oil can into the oil receiver located on the lid of the machine. The oil flows through the wicks to the hinges and lubricates them. From time to time it is necessary to open the cover of the machine and to drip oil into the hinges of the advance mechanism, the shafts of the discs and other hinges remote from the cover.

Fur technology
Fur seams are smoothed with the butt of a knife. You can cut the fur only with a special shoe knife on the back of the skin, laid out on a plastic board or plexiglass. If you cut it off with scissors, then part of the fur will fall off, and when sewing, a seam will be noticeable.

Skin Care Recommendations
It is better to sew bags from tougher leather, and if soft leather is used for this, it is necessary to make a gasket from a dense material.

Which sewing machine to buy
Modern sewing machines can be divided into 2 types: electronic and electromechanical. There are many design differences between these types of sewing machines, but the main one, which is clear to everyone, is that electronic models of sewing machines perform an unlimited number of operations.

Which overlocker to buy
Many modern overlock machines use a differential feed of the processed fabric. It is indispensable when overcasting knitted fabrics, especially connecting seams.

Reasons for skipping a stitch in a line
The main reason for skipping stitches is that the nose of the hook does not capture the loop formed by the needle. The gap between the needle blade and the nose of the shuttle should not be more than 0.3 mm, sometimes it reaches sizes in millimeters. The spout passes next to the loop and a pass appears.

The world of leather and fur is a fascinating world of needlework, which gives a lot of positive creative emotions. But working with natural fur is different from other types of sewing work. It requires knowledge of the technology of tailoring fur products, which includes the cut of natural skins, the rules for selecting fur. You need to master the techniques for making connecting seams of skins, have the skills to work on a furrier machine, etc. In addition, no video tutorials and courses on working with fur can give the most important thing - experience that appears only after years of working with fur.

How to sew fur at home? What is a furrier machine and is it possible to do without it? How to cut and with what knife can you cut natural fur skins? These and other questions are briefly discussed in this article.

Fur details, unlike leather, are connected either manually or on a special furrier machine. Sewing fur on a conventional sewing machine makes the seam stretched and of poor quality, and besides, the skin of the fur can tear from this method of connection.
There are several methods for manually joining fur skins, I suggest you study one of the options for a manual furrier seam “double puncture”.

First, the edges of the two skins to be sewn are folded with the hair inward so that the hair is not visible during stitching. The needle should pierce both skins towards itself, that is, from the back side, but you can start from the left or right side, as you prefer. The main thing is to figure out how to make such a stitch.

Furriery hand seam is performed with simple stitches over the edge from right to left with a small step between stitches. Stitch forward, stitch in place, in the same holes from the needle, and again stitch forward, stitch in place, etc.
Experienced furriers make sure to repeat the stitch, that is, the needle always passes twice into the same hole. Stitch density (0.3-0.5cm) and stitch height (0.3-0.8cm) depend on the thickness of the leather. The thicker the skin of the fur, the higher the stitch, and vice versa.

After the fur skins are connected with a furry seam, both parts are unfolded, the seam is straightened by tapping along it with a small hammer from the side of the leather fabric. The seam is even, flat and strong, and the edges of the connected parts are butt-to-butt.

A slight difference in the length of the hair of the two skins to be stitched can be evened out by moving up the edge of the skin with the longer hair. In this case, the stitch must be tightly tightened. By the way, when performing a manual furrier stitch, you should not tighten the thread too much, just “pick up” the slack in the thread. It is much more important to keep the same thread tension in every stitch.

Some areas of fur clothing need to be duplicated, for example, a collar, a collar, a bottom hem, and others. Duplication with cushioning material will protect them from stretching and give the desired shape.
It is mandatory to reinforce such connecting seams as armholes, necklines, shoulder seams. These areas are subject to stretching and the tape sewn into the seam reinforces and strengthens it.
In sewing accessories stores, you can buy a regular cotton tape 1.5-2 cm wide and use it for these purposes. There are also special adhesive tapes, which furriers call "amplifiers". They are also used when sewing products made of genuine leather.
The tape is placed on one side.

Pieces of skins joined together must be stretched on a wooden surface. To do this, you will need small cloves and a hammer.
The fur skin collected from different pieces is lightly soaked with a damp sponge from the side of the leather fabric and then it is nailed to the board along the edges with carnations, at the same time slightly stretching.
This is a very complex process, experience is required, so I will not dwell on it in detail. Let me just say that with the help of such an operation, the skins of the fur are aligned, the seams are straightened, and even sometimes you can increase the skin in size.

Working with fur requires a special tool. In addition to the shoe knife, with which (not scissors) the fur skin is cut, many other tools are still used. For example, a hammer for smoothing and softening seams, adhesive cushioning tapes, special needles for hand sewing, threads, etc.

Why can't you cut natural fur skins with scissors? Because the scissors cut off the hairline, and the seam after the connection will be very noticeable.

A small hammer and postal small nails must be in the furrier's kit. With a hammer, you need to soften the connecting seams by tapping on them, and besides, it will be needed when stretching the moistened skin on a wooden surface.

Reinforcing tapes, 0.8-1.5 cm wide, are installed (glued) on the cut edge of the skin, in those places where the fur will experience tension, for example, in the armhole, neck of a fur coat or vest, etc.

Be sure to get non-adhesive gasket materials. They will be needed to strengthen the side of a fur coat or fur vest, collars, cuffs, etc.

Buy a good metal comb for combing your hairline. With it, it is good to “comb” the junction of the skins.

You will also need an awl, strong threads, special needles, leather glue, a thimble, and, of course, a sharp shoe knife. By the way, you can use a regular clerical knife with a retractable blade instead. It is inexpensive and a dull blade is easy to “sharpen”. To do this, you just need to break off the lower section of the blade with wire cutters (according to a special mark).

Working with fur has one important advantage - you can always add a missing piece to any part or replace a section of the fur skin with another, since the connecting seam will hide in a thick hairline.

Fur skins of any fur-bearing animal are never perfectly identical. They differ in size, hairline height, shade, and sometimes some skins have “bald spots” and other defects. In general, the selection of fur is the most important skill for which a good furrier is valued.

The correct selection of fur will make the fur coat “monolithic”, as if sewn from one large skin, without focusing on the joining of skins of different quality and shade. A good master furrier, like a sculptor, feels the fur and sculpts a real work of art from different pieces, which is why tailoring fur products is the most expensive service atelier.
It is difficult to give any specific recommendations on the selection of skins, but when sewing, for example, a fur vest, place the best pieces of the skin (back) in the center of the shelves and back. It is desirable to install the side parts of the skins in other places, for example, in the side seams.
When connecting different pieces of fur skins, pay attention to the height of the fur and its shade. Attach them to each other and compare, if they fit, connect them together.

Fur skins are sewn both with a hand furrier seam and on a furrier machine. To perform a furrier seam on a machine, the skin at the seam is folded with the hairline to each other, gently tucked in with the index finger or awl of the hair inside and the edges of the skin are sewn together. The height and width of the stitch is adjustable.

The thickness of the needle and thread must match the thickness of the leather. Choose the color of the threads not according to the color of the fur, but according to the color of the leather fabric, then they will be less noticeable on the front side of the skin.
When working on a furrier machine, the hair should be carefully tucked between the skins, since the furrier machine will “lay” the hair into the seam, which will be very difficult to pull out. In addition, it may cause the furrier machine to malfunction, skip stitches, break the needle, etc.

For fox and fox skins, thread No. 80 is used, for thin rabbit skins - No. 50, 60, for other skins - No. 40, 50.
After joining, furrier seams are smoothed with the butt of a shoe knife or with light blows of a rubber-soled hammer.

You can cut the fur only with a special shoe knife on the reverse side of the fur laid out on a plastic board or plexiglass. Cutting with a knife on a wooden surface is inconvenient, the knife edge will constantly cut into the boards. If you cut off the skin of the fur with scissors, then part of the fur will be sprinkled on both sides, and when connected, the seam will be very noticeable.

For beginner tailors, I advise you to first work with old fur, but not yet lost its aesthetic qualities. In addition, such fur can be slightly updated if you combine it with genuine leather and install new accessories.

Fur skins have a wear standard. Otter fur is considered the most durable and resistant to waterlogging. It was the otter that was honored to be the standard for all fur-bearing animals, according to which the fur of fur-bearing animals is compared. Even sable fur is inferior to it in terms of strength and wear resistance.

So, if the fur of the otter is 100%, then the fur of the otter is 80%, the mink is 70, the arctic fox is 65, the astrakhan fur is 60, the fox is 50, the muskrat is 45, the squirrel is 30, the ermine and the column is 25, the rabbit is 12, the mole and gopher - 10, hare - 5.

Do not put moth balls in a fur coat. Some furs, including humans, are allergic to mothballs.
Protect natural fur from wiping, such areas make the fur coat very old.
Worn and stretched areas of fur on a fur coat may appear when driving. Try not to ride in a car in a long fur coat, it is inconvenient and its appearance will quickly deteriorate.
Natural furs must be protected from direct exposure to a variety of chemicals, as well as perfumes. The hairline from this can lose its luster, and the skin tissue elasticity.
Try to avoid strong wetting of fur clothing. If you do get caught in wet snow, dry your fur coat or fur vest at room temperature in a ventilated area, but not near a heater.

How to cut a sheepskin coat and make a hood
How to update an old, out of fashion, long sheepskin coat and make it a short jacket with a hood and fur trim.

How to sew faux fur and leather
Sewing faux fur, despite the apparent complexity, is quite within the power of even novice tailors. Its most important difference from natural fur is that sometimes it can be sewn on a conventional machine. But it’s impossible to cut like natural fur with scissors, only with a sharp special knife.

Working with genuine leather
Stitching fur skins is much easier than thick and rough leather. For sewing leather, you need a special machine, and for sewing fur products, you can use a manual furry stitch. But there is also much in common. Just like fur skins, genuine leather is “afraid” of moisture and a hot iron.

How to replace a zipper in a leather jacket
The zipper on a leather jacket, as a rule, is installed strong with a powerful slider (No. 8) and with metal links, and lasts for more than one year. But still, there comes a time when the teeth of the zipper begin to diverge and the zipper needs to be replaced.

Decorative stitching on a difficult area
Sometimes, when sewing fur clothes, you need to sew a line on a regular sewing machine. Simple tips on how to stitch on "difficult" areas.

How to sew on a button
You need to sew a new button to a fur coat or sheepskin coat firmly and correctly. Be sure to make a leg and put a buttonhole from the inside.

DIY chair covers
Chair covers like this one are a good way to freshen up the look of your furniture and sometimes even an easy way to redesign your kitchen.

How to hem jeans
Before you hem your jeans, you need to accurately measure the shortening line and the hem width.