In detail: DIY repair of a furrier machine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The furrier machine is used not only for sewing fur clothing in production or in the atelier. Often, the furrier machine is used at home. One of these common models is a class 10-B furrier.
How does the 10B furrier machine work? How does it differ from the household furrier machines Runo, Aurora? How to sew fur skins on a furrier machine? How to set up and repair a 10B furrier machine?
These and other issues are discussed in this article.
If you already have a furrier machine, or you are just going to buy a (new or used) fur sewing machine, then this article is for you. Perhaps she will help you make small repairs on your own, adjust the operating parameters of the looper and the needle of the furrier machine, install a household electric drive instead of a bulky industrial drive, etc.
Many of the recommendations for setting up and repairing are also suitable for other brands of household furrier machines, since the principle of operation is the same for them.
Furrier machine 10-B, Orsha, Runo-2 and Rus-1 have a similar design and are intended for stitching medium and thin skins: rabbit, marmot, lamb, ferret, cat, tsigay, etc.
Machines of the Runo and Rus series can be produced in a domestic version.
Industrial furriers manufactured by Strobel are furriers designed for the mass industrial production of fur clothing. They differ from household furrier machines by the presence of a bulky table and many devices, by the presence of additional functions, for example, pneumatic styling of the hairline of fur skins. This is a machine of narrow specialization and is not used at home.
The price for industrial furrier equipment differs at times from household furrier machines. And this is one of the reasons why industrial furriers are rarely used in everyday life.
Video (click to play). |
The furrier machine for sewing fur skins uses only one thread, which is threaded into the needle. The thread is removed from the needle with the looper, and then a loop is formed on the looper, which is now removed from the looper with the needle. Removing "from each other", the same thread looper and needle form a furrier stitch.
The furrier's seam opens easily, so after finishing sewing the fur, the last stitch must be fastened.
Thick threads do not need to be used for a furrier stitch. If you break the furrier's seam, then not the thread will break, but the flesh. Plus, thin, stretchy but strong threads will make stitching easier. See Sewing threads which are better.
The needle thread (A) from the bobbin installed on the stand enters the thread guide (B), the tension regulator (C) and from the thread guide (D) under the bar (E), into the clamp (G). Thread the thread through the thread guide (H) and into the eye of the needle from the bottom up.
When the furrier is working, the clamp (G) interacts with a rod having an inclined plane, the rod of which, when the needle leaves the material, squeezes the clamp (G), reducing the thread tension.
When the needle reaches the extreme forward position, the first stage of tightening the thread in the stitch occurs, and the second, when the needle loop is expanded with the looper.
The timing of the release of the thread can be adjusted by the position of the rod, pressing the clamp (G), moving it forward or backward in the body of the furrier machine.
The needle thread tension is adjusted in the tension adjuster (B) by turning the tensioner nut.
Despite the seeming simplicity of the device, the 10B furrier machine is considered quite complex and “capricious” in setting up a sewing machine. It is sometimes quite difficult even for a professional master-adjuster to set it up. As a rule, a furrier machine malfunctions due to inept sewing, in which the needle bends and sometimes the position of the looper gets lost. This happens if the edge of the flesh to be sewn protrudes above the prescribed level (see the instructions for your machine). The looper touches the edge of the fur details to be sewn, and its settings often go astray. The needle also “creeps” up and bends and even breaks.
The fact is that the technology of sewing fur provides for the use of different "numbers" of furrier machines of the same brand. For sewing fur leather of different thickness, the corresponding model number of the same brand of furrier is used, from 1 to 4.
In everyday life and in the atelier, as a rule, they use a universal furrier machine of the 2nd number. But the skins of the fur are of different dressing, sometimes very thin, sometimes too thick, and then the machine starts to malfunction.
The instructions for the furrier machine should contain recommendations on the use of needles, threads, as well as the thickness of the fur leather fabric to be sewn.
Adjustment parameters of the furrier machine 10-B:
When gripping the needle loop, the point of the looper must go beyond the upper edge of the eye of the needle (away from itself) at a distance of H = 1.2 mm, moving from right to left.
The needle, by the time of gripping, should move from the extreme forward position (away from itself) at a distance of S = 3.4 mm.
The gap between the point of the looper and the blade of the needle must be at least = 0.1. 0.15 mm.
Taking the loop from the needle, the looper expands it and transfers it over the edge of the pelt to be sewn.
After the needle comes out of the material, the pressure discs advance the skins to the right.
The looper blade, lowering over the processed edge of the fur skin, sways to the needle, as close as possible to it. At the moment the needle captures the thread from the looper blade, the distance between the needle and the looper blade is D = 0.3 mm.
The correct position of the needle in the direction of its longitudinal movement is adjusted with screws R (2 pcs.).
The correct position of the needle is considered when, when the needle is displaced, from the position closest to the operator at S = 3.4 mm, the distance from the eye of the needle to the nose of the looper is H = 1.2 mm.
After loosening the screws, the needle bar moves with the needle holder and needle.
The timing of the approach of the looper nose is adjusted by turning the eccentric Q. First, loosen the screws securing the eccentric L (2 pcs.) On the main shaft.
The position of the looper relative to the needle (in the longitudinal direction) is adjusted after loosening the looper screw. The looper should come up to the needle as it forms the needle loop.
When stitching, fur skins are folded with hairs to each other. The protruding edge of the hair is tucked in with the thumb of the left hand or with an awl inward between the skins.
The workpieces to be machined are held with the right hand and, when the outer disc is released, are placed between both discs.
To eliminate the stretching of the edges of the parts of fur skins, especially when sewing long connecting lines, the edges are pre-leveled, both parts of the fur skins are fastened in some places with clamps (or swept away with a rare stitch along the entire length of the seam). If necessary, parts can be fitted by pressing the unconnected edges against one of the discs.
The stitch should be tightly connected to the workpieces so that the seam on the side of the hairline is invisible.
The seamstress has the opportunity, at the end of the operation, to bring the shaft with his left or right hand, rotating one of the pulleys.
The furrier machine 10B is equipped with a table and an industrial electric motor, which has increased noise and power consumption.Instead of an industrial electric motor, you can put a household electric drive from a sewing machine by making a self-made mount for it. Its power is quite enough for sewing even sheepskin skins.
Another device is the pressure plate release lever. By installing it as shown in the photo, you no longer need a table, and the 10-B industrial furrier becomes portable.
The furrier must be periodically lubricated and the oil can be poured into the oil receiver located on the cover of the machine with an oiler.
If you do not have instructions, you can follow a simple rule - lubricate any rubbing parts.
Oil flows through the wicks to the joints and lubricates them. From time to time it is necessary to open the cover of the machine and bury oil in the hinges of the advance mechanism, disc shafts and other friction units of the furrier machine that are remote from the cover.
Fur technology
Fur skins are sewn both with a hand furrier seam and on a furrier machine. The furrier makes the seam elastic and strong. The needle pierces the leather fabric only once, unlike the furrier's hand seam. A well-tuned furrier seams the skins quickly and efficiently. The only drawback is that the last stitch must be fastened.
Recommendations for working with leather
The furrier machine can combine not only fur skins. For various decorative work, a furrier stitch can be used instead of a lockstitch sewing machine.
Hand sewing needles
At home, fur skins are most often sewn by hand. All you need is a good needle and quality thread. You can find out about the current which needle to choose for laying a manual furrier's seam in this article.
Industrial machines 1022, class 22
Furrier machine 10-B, sewing machine 22 class - this is a "set" of sewing machines for any fur atelier. Despite their age, these machines do a good job of sewing fur and leather products in small-scale production, ateliers. Furrier machine 10-B has not undergone technical reconstruction at all. Until now, many household furriers of any brands are produced on the basis of the 10B industrial furrier machine.
Industrial coverstitch machine If you are interested in an industrial coverstitch machine, you may be wondering how an industrial coverstitch machine works. This machine can be indispensable for the mass production of knitted garments.
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Furrier sewing machine used for working with leather, fur and other materials that ordinary machines cannot handle. Such machines are widely used in industries, in the studio, as well as at home. The advantage of the furrier machine over the usual one is the horizontal needle stroke, as well as the invisibility of the seam after sewing. Before you buy a furrier sewing machine, you should consult with a specialist, because for each type of fur you need a special machine and on your own, it is almost impossible to make the right choice. You can buy both an industrial and a household furrier.
The principle of operation of all furrier machines is practically the same, so it will not be difficult for you to work with one or another model of this device. For example, machines 10-B, Orsha, Runo-2 and Rus-1 are similar to each other in their design and are used for sewing thin skins, for example, a rabbit, a marmot, etc.
Models of furrier sewing devices
At first glance, it may seem that the furrier machine is very easy to use, and accordingly, many think that its tincture will not be difficult, but this is not so. Ease of use is not always easy to set up, even for professionals it is often difficult to quickly set up a given "capricious" device. The most common reasons for the failure of a furrier machine is its improper use, as a result of which the needle bends, the looper gets knocked off and other problems appear. The reason for the failure of the looper is often the fact that it touches the edge of the fur part, and thereby knocks down the settings.
In order for you not to have problems with working at the furrier machine, you need to choose the right model for it. In accordance with the thickness of the fur, the model number of the furrier is selected, from one to four. At home, as well as in small ateliers, I use a furrier machine of the second number. Due to different skinning and thickness, the machine may malfunction. Therefore, before you start sewing this or that product, you need to carefully read the instructions for the machine, which contains recommendations on the use of threads, needles and the thickness of the fur.
Care of your furrier sewing machine
In order for the car not to let you down at the wrong moment, it is worth providing proper care for it. It is recommended to periodically lubricate the rubbing parts in order to make this process easier, you can use a syringe instead of an oiler.
Do not forget that rubbing parts that are under the cover, for example, disc shafts, hinges, etc., need lubrication.
1 OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE VELLES FORGER VF202 / 302
2 Contents Machine parts. Description. Specifications. Preparation for work. The order of work and setting. Troubleshooting and care. Accessories, 7, 8 9, 10, 11, 12 12, 13 14
3 (fig. 1) 1. Spool bar 2. Thread guide 3. Oil filling screw 4. Oil spherical indicator 5. Machine top cover 6. Belt guard 7. Looper holder 8. Disc gap adjustment screw 9. Looper 10. Crochet pin pressure plate 11. Drive plate 12. Pressure plate 13. Disc release lever 14. Needle plate 15. Oil level indicator 16. Needle 17. Loop pin 18. Drawer 19. Body 20. Stitch length adjustment knob 21. Flywheel 22. Base bobbin stands 23. Thread tension knot 24. Bobbin holder 25. Bobbin pin 1
4 Description The VF series furriers are single-thread, chainstitch high-speed sewing machines for sewing fur and leather. Are used: for sewing fur of any thickness; sewing gloves; sports shoe insoles; headgear, etc. Reliable and easy to operate, these machines are ideal equipment for modern sewing. Model VF202 VF302 Stitch plate YES YES Main application For sewing various types of products from medium weight and leather For sewing products from thick fur and leather products. For sewing products from thick fur and suede products. 2
5 Specifications Specification VF202 VF302 Maximum sewing speed (stitches / min) Stitch length (mm) Needle bar travel (mm) Looper travel (mm) Pressure disc travel (mm) Maximum layer thickness (mm) 3.5 4.5 Maximum material thickness ( mm) Needle size 3.5 4.5 DBx1 DBx Motor specifications 220V, 250W 220V, 250W Net weight (kg) 17.5 17.5 Gross weight (kg) Machine head size (mm) 340x260xx260x255 Package size (mm) 430x310x х310х370 3
6 Preparation for work 1. Cleaning the machine from oil. After unpacking the machine, wipe off the rust preventive grease from the surface of the machine with a soft cloth. 2. Checking the machine. Despite the firm packing of the machine, there is a possibility that the machine has been damaged or shifted during transport or handling.Therefore, it is necessary to inspect it carefully and turn the flywheel (clockwise) to make sure that parts of the machine are not damaged, not misaligned, not lost or difficult to turn, if any, they should be reinstalled or replaced with new ones. 3. Lubrication. one). The insides of the machine are automatically lubricated by an oil pump. The oil has been removed from the head at the factory prior to packaging. Therefore, before starting work, the head must be filled with sewing machine oil supplied with the machine. The oil is filled to a level between the two red lines H1 and H2. (see fig. 2). (fig. 2) 4
7 2) Lubricate the lower hub of the drive disc with a small oiler while rotating the disc. Usually one turn is enough to lubricate it. (see fig. 3) (fig. 3) 3). The lubricant of a new machine should be changed after starting it for a half month. Then the grease can be changed every six months. (see fig. 4) (fig. 4) 5
8 4. Installation (assembly) of the assembled machine. one). Take the machine out of the packaging. Place a shock-absorbing rubber cushion on the table. 2). Mount the bobbin stand on the machine body. (see fig. 5) (fig. 5) 6
9 3) .Place the pedal of the machine under the table on the floor and connect it to the machine. (see fig. 6) (fig. 6) 4). Place the thread bobbin on the bobbin stand so that the hook of the bobbin stand is just above the thread bobbin. 7
10 5. Test run of the machine. one). After completing the assembly of the machine, plug the pedal into a power outlet and gently depress the pedal. The flywheel must turn in the direction of the arrow on the belt guard. The harder you press on the pedal, the faster the sewing speed. 2). After starting the machine, look at the oil flow spherical indicator (see fig. 7) and check that the oil is flowing. If oil is leaking, the oil system is fine. Then let the machine idle for 15 minutes, starting at low speed and gradually increasing. Notice if there is anything unusual during the test run. Only if everything is fine, you can sew on the machine. (fig. 7) 6. Threading in the thread. The thread is threaded in accordance with fig. 8. (fig. 8) 8
11 Procedure and setting 1. Installing the needle. When installing or replacing the needle, push it in as far as it will go, while simultaneously turning the eye of the needle up so that the small notch is on top. Then tighten the screw that secures the needle. (see fig. 9) (fig. 9) 2. Adjust the thread tension. The thread tension directly affects the stitch density. The quality of the seam is mainly determined by the tension of the thread in relation to the material being sewn. The thread tension should be set according to the thickness of the material, the thickness of the thread and the quality of the material. If the material is thick, the tension should be weaker. If it is thin and soft, the tension may be loosened slightly. After threading in the thread, first adjust the tension for trial sewing (see Fig. 8), before the thread becomes taut when you pull it by hand. Then adjust the thread tension, paying attention to the stitch density. (fig. 8) 9
12 3. Adjusting the stitch length. The adjustment knob is located on the left side of the machine (viewed from the workstation). Turn the knob counterclockwise to increase and clockwise to decrease the stitch length. (see fig. 10) (fig. 10) 4. Adjusting the pressure plate pressure. The pressure of the clamping disc on the material can be adjusted by turning the knurled nut (A) on the right rear side of the machine. (see fig. 11) (fig. 11) 5. Regulation of the amount of grease. The amount of grease can be adjusted with the adjusting screw located on the top of the machine body, under the top cover. (see fig. 12) (fig. 12) 10
13 6. Adjusting the clearance between the needle and the looper. one). The side of the rod is perpendicular to the drive disc. (see fig. 13) 2). For a disc pressing material with a stitch plate, the needle must be centered in the notch of the stitch plate. (see fig. 14) (fig. 13) (fig.14) 3). The clearance between the straight needle and the feed disc is 0.1-0.15mm. (see fig. 15) 4). The assumed clearance between the looper and the needle is shown in fig). The clearance between the looper and the needle during thread engagement is shown in fig). The extreme position of the needle and looper at maximum overhang is shown in fig. 18 and attached table. (fig. 15) (fig. 16) (fig. 17) (fig. 18) 11
14 A B C VF202 0.1 17.5 8 VF302 0.1 21 9.1 Troubleshooting and maintenance 1. Troubleshooting. Problem Cause Solution Broken needle 1). Dull, bent, or rusty needle. Replace the needle. 2). Broken by looper. Adjust the positions of the needle and looper relative to each other. 3) Fine needle when sewing thin Change the needle of the fabric. 4) Raising the feed disc (offset adjust the position of the needle plate). clearance between feed disc and needle or correct stitch plate Broken thread 1). Thread not threaded correctly Insert the thread correctly 2). The thread tension is too tight Adjust the force is strong or the release time of the thread tension and screw is not correct and the release time of the tension screw 12
16 Accessories 1. Wrench 1 pc. 2. Hex key 1 pc. 3. Screwdriver 1 pc. 4. Tweezers with bent end 1 pc. 5. Toolbox 6. Instruction 7. Oil for sewing machines 8. Electric pedal 1 pc. 9. Babyno stand assembly 1 pc. 10. Soft case 1 pc. 14
PURPOSE OF THE MACHINE AND TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS.
The 4-4 series of machines is one of the new products produced by the GEMSY plant, intended for use by large and small factories for sewing fur and clothing, leather and footwear, caps and toys, small ateliers and individual tailoring, various works with mink and fox fur , yellow weasel, rabbit, dog, leopard, bear, etc. The machine has a box-shaped frame, needle thread take-up, looper, feet, advance mechanism and automatic lubrication system. The machine is high-speed, has a high power when sewing fur.
1) Maximum shaft rotation speed.
2) Stitch type: # 501 single thread overlock.
4) Motor power: friction motor 0.37 kW, 250 V.
6) Thread: No. 20-120 cotton, shiny cotton thread or synthetic fiber thread.
7) Weight, kg: head 18, total weight of the machine 65.
8) Machine dimensions, mm: 1000x500x1190.
9) Dimensions of the head, mm: 307x274x255.
USER MANUAL.
1. READ CAREFULLY BEFORE USING.
1) Before using a new or long unused machine, wipe off any dust and grease. Then check if there is enough oil in the sump. If it is necessary to change the oil, remove the connecting screw of the machine head and the support plate and the two swivel screws under the table, pour out the remaining oil, rinse the sump with kerosene. After that, tighten the removed screws, open the top cover, fill with fresh oil to the level marked with a strip (Fig. 2).
2) Slowly turn the handwheel counterclockwise by hand before starting the motor, check if the rotation is synchronized and easy, then try sewing a few stitches.
1) Move the needle bar to its foremost position by rotating the handwheel counterclockwise and loosen the needle lock screw (11), insert the needle into the notch so that the long groove faces down and reaches the end of the positioning screw, then tighten the screw.
If you have a 10-B class furrier or you are going to buy such a used sewing machine, since new ones are no longer produced, then this article will help you perform a small repair, adjust some of its parameters. Many tuning recommendations are also suitable for household furrier machines, since they have the same principle of operation. Furrier machine 10-B, Orsha, Runo-2 and Rus-1 have a similar design and are intended for stitching medium and thin skins: rabbit, marmot, lamb, ferret, cat, tsigay, etc.Machines of the Runo and Rus series can be produced in a domestic version.
Industrial furrier machines of the "Straubel" type, designed for mass production, differ from household ones by the presence of a bulky table, additional functions, such as pneumatic hair styling of fur when sewing, and a narrow specialization. The price of industrial furrier equipment differs at times from household equipment, and apparently, therefore, they are rarely used in everyday life.
The needle thread A from the bobbin installed on the stand enters the thread guide B, the tension regulator B and from the thread guide D under the rod E, clamp G. The thread is led into the wire thread guide H and into the eye of the needle from the bottom up. When the furrier machine is operating, the clamp Ж interacts with a rod having an inclined plane, the rod of which, when the needle leaves the material, squeezes the clamp Ж, reducing the tension of the thread. When the needle reaches its extreme forward position, the first stage of tightening the thread in the stitch occurs, and the second when the needle loop is expanded with the looper.
The timing of the release of the thread can be adjusted by the position of the rod, pressing the clamp F, moving it forward or backward in the body of the furrier. The needle thread tension is adjusted in the tension adjuster B by turning the knurled nut.
Despite the seeming simplicity of the device, the 10B furrier machine is considered quite complex and capricious to set up, and to be honest, even a professional is quite difficult to set it up. As a rule, a furrier machine malfunctions due to inept sewing, in which the needle bends and sometimes the position of the looper gets lost. This happens if the edge of the flesh to be sewn protrudes above the set level (see the instructions for your machine), the looper touches it and gets knocked off, and the needle crawls up and bends.
The fact is that for sewing fur of different thickness of leather fabric, the corresponding model number of the same brand of furrier model is used, from 1 to 4. In everyday life and in the atelier, as a rule, they use No. 2. But the skin of the fur is different. Sometimes very thin, sometimes too thick and then the car starts to malfunction. The instructions for the furrier machine should contain recommendations on the use of needles, threads, as well as the thickness of the stitched leather fabric of the fur skin.
Adjustment parameters. When gripping the needle loop, the point of the looper must pass over the top edge of the eye of the needle at a distance of H = 1.2mm, moving from right to left. The needle, by the time of gripping, should move from the extreme forward position at a distance of S = 3.4mm. The gap between the point of the looper and the blade of the needle must be at least = 0.1. 0.15mm.
Taking the loop from the needle, the looper expands it and transfers it over the edge of the pelt to be sewn. After the needle comes out of the material, the pressure discs advance the skins to the right. The looper blade, lowering over the processed edge of the fur skin, sways to the needle, as close as possible to it. At the moment the needle captures the thread from the looper blade, the distance between the needle and the looper blade is D = 0.3mm.
The correct position of the needle in the direction of its longitudinal movement is regulated by screws R (2pcs). The correct position of the needle is considered when, when the needle is displaced from the extreme position closest to the operator, by S = 3.4mm. Distance from the eye of the needle to the point of the looper H = 1. 2mm. After loosening the screws, the needle bar moves along with the needle holder and the needle. The timing of the approach of the looper nose is regulated by turning the eccentric Q, loosening the screws securing the eccentric L (2pcs) on the main shaft. The position of the looper relative to the needle (in the longitudinal direction) is adjusted after loosening the looper screw. The looper should come up to the needle when the needle forms the needle loop.
When sewing the skins, you must first prepare them by cutting off the edge and cutting off (if their area is large) the fur along the edge. When grinding, the skins are folded with the hair surface to each other.The fur protruding above the processed edge is tucked in with the thumb of the left hand between the skins. The workpieces are held with the right hand and, when the disc is squeezed out, are placed between the discs. To eliminate the stretching of the edges of the parts, especially when sewing long connecting lines, the edges are pre-leveled, fastened in some places with clamps (or swept with a thin stitch along the entire length of the seam), if necessary, seating the part. The stitch should be tightly connected to the workpieces so that the seam on the side of the hairline is invisible. The seamstress has the opportunity, at the end of the operation, to bring the shaft with his left or right hand, rotating one of the pulleys. At the end of the operation, the thread breaks when it is on the looper, which does not lead to self-loosening of the stitching.
The furrier machine 10 B is completed with a table and an industrial electric motor, which has increased noise and power consumption. Instead of an industrial electric motor, you can put a household electric drive from a sewing machine by making a homemade mount. Its power is quite enough for sewing even a sheepskin.
Another device is the pressure plate release lever. By installing it as shown in the photo, you no longer need a table and the machine will become portable.
The furrier must be periodically lubricated and the oil can be poured into the oil receiver located on the cover of the machine with an oiler. Oil flows through the wicks to the joints and lubricates them. From time to time it is necessary to open the cover of the machine and bury oil in the hinges of the advance mechanism, disc shafts and other hinges that are remote from the cover.
Fur technology
The furrier seams are smoothed with the butt of a knife. You can cut the fur only with a special boot knife on the back of the skin, laid out on a plastic board or plexiglass. If you cut off with scissors, then part of the fur will crumble, and the seam will be noticeable when stitching.
Recommendations for working with leather
It is better to sew bags from harder leather, and if soft leather is used for this, it is necessary to make a padding from a dense material.
What to buy a sewing machine
Modern sewing machines can be divided into 2 types: electronic and electromechanical. There are many design differences between these types of sewing machines, but the main thing that everyone understands is that electronic models of sewing machines perform an unlimited number of operations.
Which overlock to buy
Many modern overlocks use differential feed of the processed fabric. It is indispensable when sewing knitted fabrics, especially connecting seams.
Reasons for skipping a stitch in a stitch
The main reason for skipped stitches is that the nose of the hook does not catch the loop formed by the needle. The gap between the needle blade and the hook nose should not be more than 0.3 mm, sometimes it reaches dimensions in millimeters. The spout passes next to the loop and a pass appears.
The world of leather and fur is a fascinating world of needlework, which gives a lot of positive creative emotions. But working with natural fur is different from other types of sewing work. It requires knowledge of the technology of sewing fur products, which includes the cut of natural skins, the rules for the selection of fur. It is necessary to master the techniques of making the joining seams of skins, to have the skills of working on a furrier machine, etc. In addition, no video tutorials and courses on working with fur can give the most important thing - experience that appears only after years of working with fur.
How to sew fur at home? What is a furrier machine and can you do without it? How to cut and with what knife can you cut the skins of natural fur? These and other questions are summarized in this article.
Fur details, unlike leather, are joined either manually or on a special furrier machine.Sewing fur on a conventional sewing machine makes the seam stretched and of poor quality, and besides, the leather fabric of the fur from this method of joining can tear.
There are several methods of connecting fur skins by hand, I suggest you study one of the options for a manual furrier's seam with a “double puncture”.
First, the edges of the two skins to be sewn are folded with the hairs inward so that the hair is not visible during sewing. The needle should pierce both skins towards itself, that is, from the back side, but you can start from the left or right edge, whichever is more convenient for you. The main thing is to figure out how to make such a stitch.
A hand-made furrier stitch is made with simple stitches over the edge from right to left with a small step between the stitches. Stitch forward, stitch in place, stitch in place, stitch in place again, stitch forward again, stitch in place, etc.
Experienced furriers make sure to repeat the stitch, that is, the needle always passes twice in the same hole. Stitch density (0.3-0.5cm) and stitch height (0.3-0.8cm) depend on the thickness of the leather fabric. The thicker the fur, the higher the stitch, and vice versa.
After the fur skins have been connected with a furrier seam, both parts are unrolled, the seam is straightened by tapping along it with a small hammer from the side of the leather fabric. The seam is even, flat and strong, and the edges of the joined parts are butt-to-end.
The slight difference in hair length between the two skins stitched together can be evened out by moving the longer hair edge upward. In this case, the stitch should be tight. By the way, when performing a hand furrier seam, you should not tighten the thread too much, it is enough just to “pick up” the thread slack. It is much more important to keep the same thread tension in every stitch.
Some parts of the fur garment need to be duplicated, for example, the hem, collar, hem, and others. Duplication with cushioning material will prevent them from stretching and give the required shape.
It is imperative to reinforce such connecting seams as armholes, necklines, shoulder seams. These areas are subject to stretching and the tape sewn into the seam reinforces and strengthens it.
In stores of sewing accessories, you can buy an ordinary cotton tape 1.5-2 cm wide and use it for these purposes. There are also special adhesive tapes that furriers call “amplifiers”. They are also used when sewing products from genuine leather.
The tape is placed on one side.
The combined pieces of skins must be stretched on a wooden surface. To do this, you need small nails and a hammer.
The fur skin collected from different pieces is slightly soaked with a damp sponge from the side of the leather fabric and then it is nailed along the edges with carnations to the board, while slightly pulling it.
This is a very complex process, experience is definitely required, so I will not dwell on it in detail. I can only say that with the help of such an operation, the fur skins are leveled, the seams are straightened, and even sometimes it is possible to increase the size of the skin.
Working with fur requires a special tool. In addition to the boot knife, with the help of which (not scissors) the skin of the fur is cut, many other tools are also used. For example, a hammer to smooth and soften seams, adhesive spacers, special hand sewing needles, threads, etc.
Why can't you cut natural fur skins with scissors? Because the scissors cut off the hairline, and the seam after joining will be very noticeable.
A small hammer and post small nails are a must in a furrier's kit. With a hammer, you need to soften the connecting seams by tapping on them, and in addition, you will need it when stretching the moistened skin on a wooden surface.
Reinforcing tapes, 0.8-1.5 cm wide, are installed (glued) on the cut edge of the skin, in those places where the fur will experience tension, for example, in the armhole, neck of a fur coat or vest, etc.
Be sure to purchase non-adhesive cushioning materials. They will be needed to strengthen the side of a fur coat or fur vest, collars, cuffs, etc.
Buy a good metal hair comb. With its help it is good to "comb" the joint of the skins.
You will also need an awl, strong threads, special needles, leather glue, a thimble, and, of course, a sharp boot knife. By the way, you can use a regular stationery knife with a retractable blade instead. It is inexpensive and a dull blade is easy to "sharpen". To do this, you just need to break off the lower section of the blade with pliers (according to a special mark).
Working with fur has one important advantage - you can always add a missing piece to any detail or replace a section of the fur skin with another, since the connecting seam will hide in the thick hairline.
The skins of the fur of any fur-bearing animal are never perfectly the same. They differ in size and height of the hairline, shade, and sometimes some skins have “bald spots” and other defects. In general, the selection of fur is the most important skill for which a good furrier is valued.
The correct selection of fur will make the fur coat “monolithic”, as if made from one large skin, without focusing on the joining of skins of different quality and shade. A good furrier, like a sculptor, feels the fur and sculpts a real work of art from different pieces, which is why sewing fur products is the most expensive service of the atelier.
It is difficult to give any specific recommendations on the selection of skins, but when sewing, for example, a fur vest, put the best pieces of skin (back) on the center of the shelf and back. It is advisable to install the side parts of the skins in other places, for example, in the side seams.
When combining different pieces of fur, pay attention to the height of the fur and its shade. Attach them to each other and compare, if appropriate, connect together.
Fur skins are sewn both with a hand furrier seam and on a furrier machine. To make a furrier seam on the machine, the skin at the seam is folded with a hairline to each other, carefully tucked in with the index finger or hair awl inward and the edges of the skin are sewn together. The stitch height and width are adjustable.
The thickness of the needle and thread must match the thickness of the leather fabric. Choose the color of the threads not to match the color of the fur, but to match the color of the leather fabric, then they will be less noticeable on the front side of the skin.
When working on a furrier, you should carefully tuck the hair between the skins, as the furrier will “put” the hair into the seam, which will be very difficult to pull out. In addition, this can lead to malfunction of the furrier, skipped stitches, needle breakage, etc.
For the skins of the Arctic fox and fox, thread No. 80 is used, for thin rabbit skins - No. 50, 60, for the rest of the skins - No. 40, 50.
After joining, the furrier seams are smoothed with the butt of a boot knife or light blows with a hammer with a rubber sole.
You can cut the fur only with a special boot knife on the back of the fur laid out on a plastic board or plexiglass. Cutting with a knife on a wooden surface is inconvenient, the knife edge will constantly cut into the boards. If you cut off the skin of the fur with scissors, then part of the fur will sprinkle on both sides, and the seam will be very noticeable when joining.
I advise novice furrier tailors to first work with old fur, which has not yet lost its aesthetic qualities. In addition, such fur can be slightly updated if you combine it with genuine leather and install new accessories.
Fur skins have a standard of wear. The most durable and resistant to waterlogging is considered to be otter fur. It is the otter that was honored to be the standard for all fur-bearing animals, according to which the fur of fur-bearing animals is compared. Even sable fur is inferior to it in strength and wear resistance.
So, if the otter fur is 100%, then sable has 80%, mink - 70, polar fox - 65, astrakhan fur - 60, fox - 50, muskrat - 45, squirrels - 30, ermine and column - 25, rabbit - 12, mole and a gopher - 10, a hare - 5.
Do not put mothballs in your fur coat. Some furs, including humans, are allergic to mothballs.
Protect natural fur from wiping, such areas make the fur coat very old.
Worn and elongated areas of fur on a fur coat may appear while driving. Try not to ride in a car in a long fur coat, it is uncomfortable and will quickly deteriorate its appearance.
Natural furs must be protected from direct exposure to a variety of chemicals and perfumes. This can cause the hair to lose its shine and elasticity of the skin tissue.
Try to avoid excessive moisture in fur garments. If you do get caught in wet snow, dry your fur coat or fur vest at room temperature in a ventilated area, but not near a heater.
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