DIY repair of perforating corrosion

Actually the question in the photo. The problem is not only in an unaesthetic form, but also in the fact that the rear bumper began to fall off and the plastic protection mounts (inside the wing) fell out.
For some reason, only the rear fenders and rear door sills (on both sides) began to rust. In other places, even where there were scratches and rubbers, there is no rust.

The threshold is rusted through, the wing, it seems, is not yet through and through 🙂

The service said that "you can cook, just not with them, since there is a gas tank pipe nearby."

Nissan Almera 1.6 car (1999).
Any advice and suggestions would be appreciated.

I can offer you to do everything according to your mind for 20,000 rubles. with local painting
such is the New Year's version

but I do not advise you to engage in sculpting, and the view will not be the same, and the reliability is not up to par

"New Year's version" - I meant the price is more correct, of course, to buy repair kits for arches and weld them
then paint professionally
it is absolutely not necessary to remove the tank for this, it is enough to disassemble the filling neck
it would be easier to describe the procedure in more detail with a live examination of the damage

I offer you this option)

if you want for ages, replace it with a piece from disassembly. A piece of threshold + wing arch (wing) will cost 3000-7000r.

Replacement will cost us 7000r.,
repainting will cost us 4000r.

Finding a part is a matter of one day, we are ready to find it according to the data of the car: year of manufacture, modification

Well, for 5 years - this is practically "for centuries" any "popier-mache" will not last 5 years,

but if you digest - everything will be super like new

Buy and weld repair arches. They are not expensive.

Price of work for 1 wing = 3,500 rubles. (tin) + painting of the wing and opening = 7 500 r.

On 11-year-old 2105, I did the following.In addition, there was such a hole:

First, you need a warm garage (in winter). Now about the process.

1. With a drill with a crown-shaped metal brush, we completely remove the rust to something like this:

By the way, on the other side of the car it was more similar to your case, here is the result of cleaning:

2. Now we take fiberglass (some people use nylon stockings, but I will not recommend it), cut it out so that it repeats the contour of the cleaned "hole" with an allowance of 1-2 centimeters. Degrease the surfaces around the "hole" with alcohol.

3. We smear the glass cloth with a special automotive epoxy glue (two-component stinking rubbish in cans), stick it in place of the hole, smooth it out. There is no need to try to achieve the desired shape right away - the main thing is that the glued fabric is not "curved" outward from the original body profile.

4. After three hours we look at the result. If the fabric is strongly bent, repeat the procedure over the glued layer. The second layer will smooth out easily. When gluing the second layer, try to give the fabric such a profile so that after applying a minimum of putty.

5. We are waiting for three hours until it dries. Then we take a two-component putty and make a batch. Without thinking twice (otherwise it will harden), we apply the mass with a spatula over the glued fiberglass in such a way as to recreate the original geometry of the place to be repaired. Along the edges of the fabric, you need to "go out" with a putty on the metal so that the edges of the fabric can be seen well.

6. The next day we pick up a drill with a nozzle-circle, on which a delicate skin is fixed. We sand the surface in such a way that it becomes almost smooth and that the transition from the putty to the metal of the body becomes minimally noticeable (do not sand it to fiberglass - it will only get worse).

7. Wipe and degrease the surface, apply a primer (using a spray can at a distance of 30-40 cm) in two layers. Take a break for 20 minutes between layers. After a couple of hours after priming, we take a can of paint and apply this very paint to the place being repaired.

motivation is not right. I have never heard that a part of the part would be replaced with plastic.Only the whole part.

If you think a little, it is quite obvious that a welded joint of two metal sheets is somewhat more reliable than gluing. even if it's a highly advertised poxipol. It seems to me that rivets will be even stronger than epoxy / polyester glue.

I don't know what kind of special automotive resins, I divide them into epoxy and polyester. The former seem to be stronger, the latter seem to harden faster. Epoxy is typically advised to be processed no earlier than 24 hours after mixing. Polyester "rises" an order of magnitude faster.

Next: "When gluing the second layer, try to give the fabric such a profile,"
Don't do that.
The fact is that when gluing fiberglass, resin plays the role of only a binder, but not a forming material. Therefore, there should be a minimum of resin, only for impregnating the fiberglass (I pasted the bumper last time - in the absence of fiberglass, I used a painter's bandage, a kind of airy synthetics), but not for the formation of volume. Resin, in general, is itself a fragile substance, therefore, in fiberglass it is not so much resin that "works" as a filler.

It makes sense to bend the desired surface from something before applying the first layer of "fiberglass", with a margin of several layers. For a piece of a bumper, I bent it corny from the inside out of a metal mesh from the nearest construction market. Grid with a square 5x5mm. And on it there are several layers of the specified material impregnated with epoxy. After a day, you can grind (although the resin is fragile, but strong, it is better to grind with a machine, I walked "into black" with a cleaning disc on a grinder. irregularities, and then aluminum or something like that.

but I agree with previous speakers that such a "repair" is advisable for sale. It's better for yourself, after all, to weld the patch. either by cutting out from the donor, or by adjusting the sheet pieces with the subsequent removal of the surface of the putty. With non-crooked hands, it will be more reliable and more durable than epoxy patches.

Yes, by the way, there is another "home option": cut out the damaged pieces, but not weld the patches, but solder them.

and a few photos:
about the form for gluing: (the screws are subsequently unscrewed, traces of them are plastered)

about patches: on the left in the process (what was almost absent, traces of seams are visible), on the right the result (do not pay attention to the white balance, the color is black. 🙂

a year and a half has passed until (ugh * 3) there are no holes.

shl. the thresholds and boxes were completely amputated. 🙂

ps. about the gas tank. they just didn't want to go to the service. On the Volga, they made me a rear fender and a fender liner, the gas tank was banally removed for the time of welding, and the pipes were taken to the side.

Look for a less snazzy service that will remove the gas tank and find a donor for disassembly.

Well, I'll take it on, because I did it only "for myself" once without experience and knowledge.

Since then, by the way, the car has been going through its second winter (now with a new owner) and these places do not give themselves away.

How to get rid of rust on the body of a car is a question that worries most of the owners of used cars. There are not many options, go to a service station, or deal with the problem yourself. Many do not know how to deal with rust on the body of a car, so they often just cover it up with paint, but this method does not save for long, however, rust is not fatal, so we will consider ways to get rid of it.

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Of course, the most correct and cardinal solution in the fight against corrosion will be to replace the entire part as a whole, however:

• It happens that such a part cannot be obtained, or its cost exceeds reasonable limits, but you always want to save money;
• Therefore, now we will figure out how to eliminate rust on the car body with our own hands;
• There are several ways, and they are all quite laborious;
• Modern cars have galvanized bodies, at least most;
• This prevents corrosion from developing, however, with deep scratches, creases and chips, the protective zinc layer is damaged;
• How do you make sure that the body of your car is galvanized?
• It is enough to study the passport data of your car;
• Or, very carefully scrape off the paint from an inconspicuous area of ​​the body, not forgetting to then paint it over;
• For a car, a stainless steel body is not produced, most likely the matter is in the cost of production, so the problem of rust remains relevant;
• It is necessary to observe safety measures, use goggles and rubber gloves, when doing bodywork, to avoid contact with the body of chemicals.

If the body is damaged by rust in several places, it is necessary to thoroughly wash these places with car shampoo before starting work, then:

• After the body has dried, all problem areas must be treated with a coarse sandpaper, or use a metal brush;
• It is not recommended to use a grinder, because the grinding discs remove the metal layer;
• Only discs with a plastic sole are suitable for this procedure;
• Use an abrasive wheel mounted on a drill to go through problem areas.

If the corrosion is deep, and even small holes have appeared, then they act in the following way:

• With the help of a conical brush (more rigid is recommended) put on the drill, rust is removed from the car body

Attention: The use of abrasive wheels and a grinder is not allowed - you will simply burn through the metal, after such cleaning it will rot very quickly.

• After cleaning, you can confidently assess how deeply the corrosion has penetrated. The cleaned place is blown with air from the compressor, then you need to put a searchlight or a lantern behind the part;
• If the body part is not removable, then you must try to stick a light source from behind;
• In places where holes have appeared, luminous points will be visible when the ambient light is off;

Instructions on how to stop corrosion of a car body are as follows:

• The simplest way is to seal the holes with ordinary tin solder;
• To do this, you need a hammer soldering iron, soldering acid (rosin is not suitable here), POS-61 grade solder, a building hair dryer can still be useful to warm up the repair place when the power of the soldering iron is not enough;
• Get a rust converter, you can't do without it.

Attention: Before starting work with a new soldering iron, you should irradiate the tip (its working surface).

• Before starting work, the repair place with through corrosion should be cleaned of rust residues;
• Because the solder will not stick to the rusty surface;
• The most important thing is not to be lazy when you are too lazy to mess around, then go back to the beginning, where it is recommended to purchase a new part;
• To remove the remnants of rye, you need a sharp-pointed file, or a piece of a hacksaw blade, or a knife with a sharp blade and abrasive cloth;
• With a coarse sandpaper, (grain P60-80) they pass through the center of rust (if not brushed), this is how the surface layer is removed;
• Then you should pick out the rust from the metal, which has already eaten;
• To make the places clearly visible, you need to apply a rust converter with a brush and wait a couple of minutes;
• Rust will darken and become clearly visible on clean metal
  at this stage, sharp-pointed objects will come in handy to pick out rotten metal;
• The process is the most dreary and time consuming;
• The rust converter should be constantly applied to these places with a brush;
• In this way, you wash away the rust that you have already picked out, and you see where you should put extra effort;
• After the place is cleaned, you can start serving it;

Attention: When the diameter of the through holes exceeds 2-3 millimeters, it will no longer be possible to fill them with solder; this method is suitable when through corrosion is formed in the form of a fine mesh.

• Apply soldering acid to the surface until it dries, you need to apply tin solder with a heated soldering iron over the entire cleaned surface, where holes from corrosion already exist and may appear
• To improve the adhesion of tin solder, constantly lubricate the evaporating acid
• When the metal of the case is thick and the power of the hammer soldering iron is not enough to heat the tin, then use an industrial hair dryer or a second soldering iron

Advice: Soldering should be done in the open air or in a ventilated room (or in a room with a forced draft), since the evaporated acid is very harmful to the respiratory tract, and its smell is not pleasant.

• Repair of corrosive damage to the body does not tolerate hackwork, the price of careless work - the body will rust again and very quickly;
• After completing the work, again check with a light whether there are still through holes;
• After the repair site has been tinned, and the foci of corrosion are soldered, the treated surfaces should be cleaned of acid and converter that could remain;
• As a rule, they are washed with water or with a mixture of gasoline and alcohol;
• In order to increase the service life of a repaired body part, it is important to properly protect it from contact with the atmosphere;
• On the tinned place of this body part, apply an acidic primer using a paint sprayer, then, on top of it, an acrylic primer, only then can the surface be putty;

Important: Putty must not be put on top of the acidic primer; therefore, put acrylic primer.

• If suddenly, when sanding the putty, you have wipes to the metal - there is nothing wrong with that, just blow it out again with acidic soil and coat the exposed areas with acrylic;
• When completing the restoration of a rusty car body, you should definitely protect the back side of that repair place;
• Mandatory condition! Otherwise, all the work done will go to waste;
• There are many ways to protect against corrosion, the main thing is to block the access of moisture and air to the protected area;
• The first option is to prime the reverse side with acid and acrylic primers;
• The second option is to apply a layer of good sealant, mastic, or fill it with Movil;
• The choice of option will depend on the ease of access to the treated surface;
• If you can't crawl with a sprayer, try to apply primer with a brush, and then cover with Movil, for reliability, or a similar agent;
• Now it is clear to you how to restore a car body from rust with small holes;

When a hole has already formed in the body, putty or soldering is not enough:

• The easiest way is to make and install a patch;
• Of course, this method is suitable for holes with a diameter of no more than 5-7 centimeters, when the hole is larger, the replacement of a body element is definitely necessary, or welding work;
• How to get rid of rust on the car body if holes have already appeared?
• First, the place of damage should be thoroughly washed, then cleaned to remove rust, as described above;
• After that, a patch is cut out with a size slightly larger than the hole, made of thin metal, a tin can is suitable;

• Now you need the same hammer soldering iron, with its help you have to tin the surfaces from the outside of the hole and the edge of the finished patch;
• Soldering acid or its analog is used as a flux;
• At the end, it will be necessary to solder the patch with a continuous seam, then the patch must be upset with a hammer;
• Clean the protruding edges with coarse sandpaper;
• After that, cover the defective place with putty, prime and paint;
• Body repair after rusting can be done by welding;

• The patch is carbon dioxide welded to the body, but for this you need a welding machine (or a welder with a machine), plus the skills of a welder;
• Further processing as with the previous patch, cleaning, priming, filler, sanding the filler and painting;
• Do not forget about processing the back side.

We wish you success in your bodywork!

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The body of a car is the most expensive part of it. But the modern auto industry offers car bodies of such quality that one can encounter the "first signs" of decay within the first two years of operation.

One of the easiest ways to solve a problem, or rather to slow down its development, is to contact a specialized car service. There they will perform an expensive cycle of removing rust through, from welding to painting.

Is it possible to repair a body with your own hands, the rust that "ate" to a hole? The variety of tools and materials offered in auto dealerships allows you to perform several ways to get rid of perforated rust from the body. They will cost less than professional repairs and take relatively little time.

Pull-through corrosion of the body is completely eliminated in only one way - by completely replacing the affected part. But this method is appropriate only in cases where the size of the affected area is more than 10 cm in diameter. Experienced body repairmen believe that with the right approach and the use of special materials, holes up to 8-10 cm in size are repaired.

To perform such work, you will not need special expensive tools, but minimal skills of working with your hands will not interfere. Every caring car owner is interested in how to repair perforating car corrosion without having to replace body parts.

There are several ways to solve this problem, namely:

• Welding is a local approach to combating rust penetration, which implies the presence of special welding equipment and experience with it;
• A patch - or "solder" - soldering a suitable piece of metal with a soldering iron and tin solder;
• Mesh - building up the missing fragment of a part using a special mesh. Works in conjunction with fiberglass and epoxy resin.
• Fiberglass - you need a special fiberglass putty and a special material to create a multi-layer rigid surface.
• Putty - This is only effective when using backing backing and long fiber automotive putty.
• Riveting is an outdated method and requires a special tool (riveter), or a hammer and rivets.

A special aluminum patch mesh is used as the main material, or a similar non-professional mesh with a small section is selected. Nowadays, you can get by with the usual household plastic, metal or fabric mesh.

Several suitable pieces are prepared. Stretching one of them from the inside of the part and giving the necessary shape to the missing part, the mesh is attached using masking tape. Epoxy is applied to the mesh layer by layer.

Each layer should dry well. This should be repeated with the next piece of the mesh. And so we close it until a hard surface is obtained.

From this material, you can make not only a fragment, but also a complete part. The sequence of actions is the same as with the mesh (the rust hole is sealed on the car body), but using fiberglass. In fact, the skeleton of the missing element is being created.

Corrosion of the body can be removed only by following a certain sequence of actions in this process. Despite the variety of methods for repairing through corrosion with their own hands, the motorist should know what to do with through corrosion of the body at the beginning of work. The complexity of the work itself will depend on the general condition of the car body.

First you need to clean the corroded surface so that there is a clean piece of metal without traces of corrosion. If it is not possible to do this carefully, then the damaged fragment is cut out.

In each version of the repair of through corrosion, all the cleaned places are covered with an acidic or epoxy primer.

From a suitable piece of metal (for body repair of through corrosion, metal with a thickness of 0.8 mm is required) a patch is made 2-3 mm larger than the through hole. If possible, the patch is applied from the back side of the body part, and by welding it is welded with dots along the contour from the front side.

In no case should you cook with a continuous seam, so as not to lead and tighten the metal.

Welding points are cleaned flush with the repair area. It turns out a depression, which is then leveled with automobile putties.

The principle of operation is the same as for welding, but instead of metal 0.8, tin is used (for example, cut out from under a tin can). The patch is cut out slightly more than the repair site. Using a powerful soldering iron and tin solder, the patch is soldered with a continuous seam.

The protruding sealed area on the car can be slightly drowned with a hammer, but this will complicate further work with the putty, therefore, it is necessary to be careful and accurate.

For such repairs, only a special automotive fiberglass putty is used. Starting from the large (starting) and ending with the small (finishing) faction. To do this, you will definitely need a substrate (for example, a piece of abrasive cloth).

Work surfaces must be degreased and primed with acid or epoxy primer and allowed to dry. After the primer, the filler will be applied in layers. For adhesion of materials, apply the risk with an abrasive cloth (H 120-150). The surface is degreased again and putty is applied in a thin layer.

Each layer is thoroughly dried from 30 minutes to several hours, depending on the thickness and air temperature. The dried putty is rubbed with an abrasive, smoothing the boundaries of the resulting halo.

The result is a flat surface for applying primer and paintwork.

The thickness of the layer of automotive putty should not exceed 2 mm. Thicker layers will lead to cracking of the material.

Whatever method of repairing through corrosion of the body is carried out, cosmetic painting work will be required to complete it. This includes multi-layer leveling of the repair surface with several types of automotive fillers.

Each layer is dried and rubbed with abrasives. After that, the surface is primed with epoxy primer, then leveling. After that, paint and varnish is applied.

Painting a car or its parts requires special skills, so it is best to entrust it to professionals.

Pull-through corrosion is a critical defect. The condition of the body affects not only the appearance and reliability of the car, but also the safety of its owner.Therefore, it is advisable to regularly inspect the body and carry out preventive anti-corrosion treatments.

Of course, the most correct and radical solution to remove corrosion on the body part would be to replace the rusty part with a new one. But there are options that it is simply not possible to get such a part or its cost exceeds all reasonable limits, and the corrosion center itself is not very large.
If you have just such a case, then read on.

There are many ways to combat body corrosion, but the essence is about the same and they are all quite laborious. I will describe one of them to you, I will try in sufficient detail, if anything is not clear, write the questions below in the comments.

We remove body corrosion and then protect it in several stages.

The first stage is a rough cleaning of the corrosive place

With the help of a brush, preferably the most rigid one worn on a drill or a vinyl wheel, a layer of paint, soil and rusty scale is removed.

Attention! Do not use an abrasive such as a grinder - it burns out the metal and then in this place it will rot very quickly.

Now, you can assess the problem area, how deep the corrosion is and whether there is through corrosion of the part. To do this, blow the cleaned area with air from the compressor and place a lantern or searchlight behind the parts. If it is a non-removable part, try to stick a light source from behind.
The main trick here is to see the light as dots where there might be holes. Turn off the outside light if necessary. No perforating corrosion - great, there is - you will have to fix it.

Second stage - remove through corrosion

The easiest way is to solder the corrosion holes with tin solder. To do this, you will need:

• a powerful soldering iron (there is one in the form of a hatchet or iron),
• tin-lead solder (usually POS-61),
• flux (soldering acid - a rust converter, usually based on phosphoric acid, is also suitable),
• and possibly a building hair dryer for external heating of the repair site if the power of the soldering iron is not enough.

Attention! Before working with a new soldering iron, you should irradiate its tip (work surface).

Before you start to solder a repair site with through corrosion, you should remove any remaining rust, since the solder will not stick to the rust. And here the most important thing is not to be lazy - if you are lazy, then we return to the beginning of the article, where I advised you to buy a new part.

To remove the remnants of rye, you will need a variety of simple sharp devices and an abrasive cloth. Simple devices are a sharp-pointed file or a piece of cloth for metal or a knife with a sharp tip.

By walking with a coarse abrasive cloth, for example P60-80, over the rust center, you will remove the surface layer of rye. Now it is necessary to remove or more precisely to pick out the rust from the metal into which it has already eaten. To make these places clearly visible, apply a rust converter with a brush and wait a couple of minutes. Stubborn rust will turn black and be clearly visible on white metal.

This is where you will need all kinds of pointed objects to pick out the rotten metal. Show your imagination!

This process is the most dreary and time-consuming. Regularly flush these areas with a brush and a rust remover. This way, you wash away the rust you've picked and see where more effort needs to be made.

So, the place is cleaned, we proceed to the maintenance of the repair place.

Attention! If the diameter of the through holes exceeds 2-3 mm, then you most likely will not be able to fill them with solder. Therefore, this method is acceptable when penetrating corrosion in the form of a fine mesh is being repaired. Otherwise, a piece of metal should be welded.

We apply a flux to the surface, in our case it will be a rust converter based on phosphoric acid, and while it is not dry, apply a layer of tin solder over the entire surface with a heated soldering iron, where there may be holes from through corrosion.
For better adhesion of tin solder, we constantly lubricate the evaporating acid (flux). If the metal is thick enough or a large area of ​​the repair zone, and the power of one soldering iron is not enough to warm up, then we use a hair dryer or a second soldering iron to help.

Soldering is best done outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, as acid, which is very harmful to the respiratory tract, evaporates, and the smell is not pleasant.
This stage is rather painstaking and does not tolerate hack-work.
At the end, check with light for any through holes.

The repair site is tinned and all the centers of perforating corrosion are soldered. Surfaces treated with a rust converter must be cleaned of acid residues. This should be done according to the instructions on the label for your rust converter. This is usually a rinse with water or an alcohol-gasoline mixture.

Stage three - we protect the repair site

In order to prolong the service life of a body part repaired in this way, it must be properly protected against harmful atmospheric influences.
To do this, an acidic primer is applied to the bare metal and the tinned place of the body part with a paint sprayer, and then an acrylic primer.
Now you can putty.

Remember! Putty must not be put on acidic soil!

If in the process of sanding the putty there are small wipes to the metal - that's okay, just before the last priming with acrylic, "blow" these places again with acid soil.

Well, in conclusion of the whole process of removing corrosion from the car body, it is imperative to protect the reverse side of the repair site. This is a prerequisite! Otherwise, this whole process made by your hands will go down the drain.

You can protect metal from corrosion in different ways, the main thing is to ensure that there is no access to moisture. To do this, you can prime with acid and acrylic primer, apply sealant, mastic, or fill with Movil or similar material.

The method of protection undoubtedly depends on the convenience of access to the repair site. Ideally, of course, should be primed.
If you do not crawl up to this place with a paint sprayer, then try to apply the primer with a brush. It should be borne in mind that the application of primers with a brush in terms of the quality of protection is lower than with a spray gun. Therefore, after such priming, it is advisable to apply a protective composition like Movil or its analogs.

A ginger attack named Rust plagues many car enthusiasts. The worse the car body is protected from the effects of corrosion at the factory (galvanized), the more often the owners will have to make efforts to eliminate red spots. Moreover, it is undesirable to hesitate with the liquidation, since over time the damage to the metal only increases. As a result, in six months you will have to spend much more time and money than today. So, what is needed to remove rust and mushrooms with your own hands and how to remove them without harming the body.

Rust is metal oxidation that occurs when exposed to air, water and static electricity. Therefore, the main reason for its occurrence is damage to the paintwork of the car body. Microcracks and physical damage allow air and moisture to reach the iron. The rate of destructive impact will depend on the degree of protection of the body itself and the aggressiveness of the environment. This is especially true in the winter period, when many chemicals appear on our roads.

The above factors directly affect the shape, color and depth of corrosion. People call them differently: "mushrooms", "bugs" or simply "rusty spots", but they have the same essence (only the degree of neglect is different). A single spot of rust is easier to deal with than a lot of small ginger spots. The latter usually indicates poor metal quality or unsuccessful body repairs. The total processing area will be larger. Moreover, these points often spread in depth, and not in breadth. Bloating paint also signals the need to remove corrosion that has begun to develop under the paintwork.

Rust progresses well in places of increased exposure to foreign objects: sand, dirt, stones.The hood suffers from small stones from under the tires of other cars, wheel arches from their own "emissions" (by the way, wide non-standard tires or rims contribute to great damage). The thresholds of the car are also one of the first to rot because of the close proximity to the "aggressive environment", plus unsuccessful exits from the curbs exacerbate the situation.

We got acquainted with the reasons and places, let's move on to ways of correct elimination. There are two methods that differ in the way they remove rust:

1. Mechanical - cleaning, priming, putty, painting.
2. Chemical - rust converters or galvanized metal kits.

The first method is indispensable if the rust is heavily eaten into the metal. Then it is necessary to completely eliminate traces of corrosion until pure iron (ideally shiny) remains. This may require additional tools and tools, which we will consider below in step-by-step instructions.
The second option is suitable for hard-to-reach places. These can be curves in the underbody of the vehicle or the interior of the arches that are difficult to machine mechanically. Depending on the product, rust after chemical treatment can turn into foam (you need to wash off with water and dry the surface) or harden and cover with a protective layer suitable for painting. Be sure to read the instructions and recommendations for the use of chemicals before buying.
Before starting work, try to assess the extent of the damage to the body and see if you can pickle the damage with chemistry alone. For a positive result, it is necessary that after the initial purification, there remains "live" iron. If there are through holes or the final metal thickness after processing is too small, then a more serious body repair will be needed, that is, all these areas will need to be initially repaired using welding or fiberglass putty.

The ideal option is phosphoric acid. Apply a thin layer to the saffron milk cap, wait 10-30 seconds, wipe dry with a cotton pad. Rust eats away, forms a phosphate film, which is not afraid of water and is inert.

Maxim Leonov

I have already tried with orthophosphoric - this is still the old-fashioned method, I processed what I cleaned. (As far as I know, all these inhibitors and converters - and there it is, only in multi-colored bottles). Indeed, almost cleaned surfaces, this rubbish gets rid of rust residues. But untouched, so to speak, terry thickets of corrosion do not particularly react to it. So, they will fizzle a little, darken, turn pale and remain in place.

Nowadays, for the magic of turning rust into pure and white metal, they no longer burn at the stake, however, a miraculous transformation also does not occur. And the zealous repairers continue to skin, pickle, putty, process with filler ... And that's all why - because you can't pull it out without difficulty. So saw, Shura, saw ...

If you follow the instructions and do not rush, you can forget about rust on your car for 1-2 years (at least in the treated areas). The work is carried out in stages:

1. preparation of everything you need;
2. primary cleaning of the damaged part of the body;
3. degreasing and priming;
4. painting and varnishing.

To work you will need:

• grinding tool and sandpaper,
• rust converter,
• solvent,
• anticorrosive primer,
• paint to match the body color and colorless varnish (in cans),
• if necessary, a two-component automotive putty (with hardener).

1. You can fight rust with a sandblasting machine, grinder with a grinding wheel, a drill with a special nozzle, or it is banal, but always available - with your hands and sandpaper.

   

   The work can be done manually or using special machines

   The main thing is to work carefully and slowly. There should be no deep scratches or rough transitions. Try to get a sanded surface with smooth gradients.

   

   The grinder is often in the arsenal of the car enthusiast

   

   The damaged paintwork is removed layer by layer and subsequent damage zones are processed

   

   The durability of the result depends on the thoroughness of the work.

   

   The universal types of putty, oddly enough, are still not suitable for all types of car bodies.

   It is applied in several layers and each is sanded to a smooth state. Your goal is to seal all the grooves and achieve a perfectly flat surface after completion of the work.

   

   To work, you need several types of emery cloth

   

   Do not spare protective equipment, especially if you are doing work for the first time

   Film, newspapers and masking tape are perfect for this. If you are working outdoors, be sure to consider the direction of the wind.

   

   Keep dust and other abrasive particles away from the treated surface

   

   Painting work requires minimal skills!

   

   The result is not always the same as in the photo, often it is necessary to refine and eliminate flaws