In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a flush tank in a toilet from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The design and principle of operation of the drain tank are quite simple, therefore, it is rarely difficult to repair the device.
With some breakdowns of the drain tank, water does not flow to the floor, there is no threat of flooding the neighbors from below. Such malfunctions seem insignificant, but this is exactly until the bill for payment of water supply services arrives.
If a counter is installed, then any failure in the operation of the tank can become a problem! Therefore, the smartest solution is to eliminate it immediately, without waiting for trouble.
Minor difficulties sometimes occur only with improved modern models, in such cases it is worth contacting specialists. Basically, almost any repair of the toilet cistern can be done by hand.
The device of the toilet cistern is quite simple, and almost anyone can cope with its repair, because. it does not require any special skills
In many ways, drain tanks of various designs are similar. The main difference is in the installation method:
Hanging tanks. Structures of this type are attached to the toilet bowl at a low height and connected with a pipe.
Toilet bowl compact. The compact cistern is attached directly to the toilet bowl without connecting pipes.
Built-in tank. Structures of this type are installed in the wall, they are used with hanging toilets.
Regardless of the models, the designs of the cisterns are very similar. Modern devices are convenient in that they can be repaired without disassembling the modules and replacing them entirely.
The water supply to the drain tank is carried out either from below or from the side. The side feed device is most often found in domestic-made toilets. Its advantage is a relatively low price, which affects the cost of the entire toilet bowl as a whole.
Video (click to play).
Bottom water supply is often found in modern domestic and imported designs. Usually these are slightly more expensive models.
Various types of mechanisms can be provided for draining: buttons, rods, levers, chains. The most common option is a button.
It can be located at the top of the structure, and in models with a hidden tank - on the wall. To drain the water, just press it.
Push-button models can only be disassembled after the push-button has been removed. How to remove the lid from a tank of this design is shown in detail in the video:
VIDEO Buttons in which the water is completely drained after a short single press are called automatic.
Those in which water is drained only while the button is pressed are mechanical. The former are more convenient to use, while the latter save water when flushing the toilet.
There are single and dual-mode push-button drain mechanisms. In models with two buttons, it is possible to drain only half the volume of the tank.
However, there are designs with one button, which in the same way can drain either the full volume of water or half. If the push-button mechanism is equipped with a special auger that causes the water to rotate during the descent, then the toilet bowl is washed more efficiently.
Mechanisms with two buttons are a little more expensive, but the overpayments pay off, because draining in economy mode can reduce water consumption by 20 cubic meters. in year
If desired, you can easily adjust the amount of water collected in the tank. This is necessary if the toilet is poorly flushed or there is too much water and there is a need to reduce its volume.
To change the filling volume, you need to remove the tank cap and follow simple steps.But before proceeding with the adjustment, you first need to deal with the device of the tank.
The video below will help you with this:
VIDEO
Such mechanisms are equipped with a lever made of thick metal wire. It connects the valve and the float. To raise or lower the float, you need to slightly bend the wire arm.
After that, you should make sure that the right amount of water is collected in the tank. If not, bend the wire a little more. By raising the lever, you can increase the volume of water, lowering - reduce.
This option is only suitable for those tanks in which the float system uses metal.
Many modern models use plastic instead of metal parts. Such levers cannot be bent, but the float itself can be moved along their axis using the mounting screw provided for by the design.
The float can be fixed with a thread or a latch. If a latch is used in the design, then it is squeezed out. To increase the volume of water in the tank, the float is moved closer to the valve body.
As a result, the length of the lever is reduced. If you need to lower the water level, the float is moved further from the body.
This is the simplest design of a cistern with a side water supply. Brass wire is used as a lever. Slightly changing the angle of its inclination, you can reduce the amount of water in the tank. If a meter is installed in the house, this is a great way to save on utility bills.
If the design is with a bottom water supply, it can be adjusted even more easily than a system with a side supply. The mechanism has a special water level limiter connecting the valve lever and the float. It can be lengthened or shortened.
The float on the limiter is fixed with a thread. To adjust the water level in the tank, you need to change its height with a plastic nut.
The main advantage of bottom feed designs is the ease of installation and maintenance. When repairing or replacing problems are extremely rare
If the cistern is faulty, it quickly becomes apparent: water either leaks into the toilet bowl or starts dripping onto the floor. Sometimes it happens that the container is not filled.
No matter how ultra-modern and complex the design of the tank is, breakdowns appear the same in all models.
External leaks are not always immediately visible. It happens that water drips out for weeks, but its amount is so small that the damp areas are not striking. Then the leak can be determined by the appearance of red spots and rust streaks.
If they are, it is worth disassembling the tank and establishing the cause of the breakdown.
If there is no coarse filter, dirt and rust particles constantly enter the tank. They accumulate in the tank and can damage the internal mechanisms of the structure, cause damage
Normally, the tank is filled to a predetermined level, and the rubber bulb is pressed against the drain hole, securely closes it and is held in this position due to water pressure. When you press the descent mechanism, this pear rises and opens the drain hole.
The rubber bulb must be constantly filled with air. To prevent water from getting into it, a special guide tube is provided in the design. It ensures the correct position of the pear in the "saddle".
If the integrity of the pear or tube itself is violated, the mechanism fails.
This is how the rubber pear of the tank should look like, if it is in working order. It should remain elastic and fit well to the saddle.
The first thing to do after disassembling the tank is to inspect the pear. If it has lost its elasticity, cracked, then it is in it that the cause of the leak lies. Worn rubber cannot cover the drain hole well, water leaks into cracks and gaps.
Rubber products of this type cannot be repaired, so the pear should simply be replaced.
If everything is in order with it, you need to make sure that particles of dirt and rust do not get under the rubber, which can also interfere with the normal operation of the pear.
There are cases when you can solve the problem of leakage by simply cleaning the tank. If it turns out that dirt has accumulated under the rubber bulb, it can be removed with a regular sponge. Often this is enough to restore normal operation. It also makes sense for prevention to wipe the walls of the container with a rag and remove plaque.
If the pear is in order, then you should continue to inspect the toilet tank in search of the cause of the leak.
The tank is not filled if:
inlet hose defective;
the inlet valve of the float mechanism is worn out.
Water can leak out if:
the gasket between the tank and the toilet is worn out;
a leak appeared at the place where the connecting screws were installed.
Internal leaks appear when:
overflow tube not adjusted;
valve is defective;
float has failed.
All these components should be carefully checked, repair, adjust or replace damaged parts. How to disassemble the tank and find these elements is shown in the video:
VIDEO
How can you fix a toilet cistern if water has stopped flowing into it? This is not difficult. First of all, check the supply hose. It is disconnected from the tank and one end is lowered into a container.
If the water does not flow, you can simply buy and install a new hose.
Most often, the problem lies in the clogging of the narrow part of the valve. For repair, it is enough to empty the tank, turn off the water and unscrew the assembly consisting of a valve, lever and float.
When the parts are removed, a hole will open through which the container is filled. It is very often clogged. You can clean it with a regular needle or wire.
To carry out a complete cleaning, you need to remove the valve from the inlet pipe and wash off the remaining dirt with water.
Sometimes the cause of failure is a tiny piece of scale that has fallen into the hose, or dirt. You can try to rinse or clean it
If an external leak appears, you can repair the toilet bowl with your own hands and not call the master. Usually, problems arise due to a loose seal between the toilet bowl and the tank, or if the seals under the screws are worn out.
In the first case, it is enough to remove the tank, check the gasket and, if it has become too hard or cracked, replace it.
It happens that the reason for such a leak is banal - the gasket is not installed correctly. Then it’s enough just to put it in place, or better, change it.
If there is a leak in the place of the connecting screws, then they need to be unscrewed and the rubber seals changed. To do this, it is not even necessary to remove the tank itself.
When choosing new seals, it is better to give preference to cone-shaped rather than flat ones. They adhere much more closely to surfaces.
When tightening the screws after replacing the seals, it is important to achieve an even distribution of forces in order to prevent distortions, otherwise a new leak may appear. To do this, tighten the screws little by little and in turn.
How to fix a cistern if water flows into the toilet bowl? To begin with, it is worth checking the correct setting of the overflow tube. It needs to be lifted a little and see if water is overflowing into the tube.
If yes, then the float valve needs to be repaired. If not, you need to adjust the lever.
Valve problems can arise from debris. You just need to remove it from under the gum.
If the rubber is worn out, you can simply turn it over on the other side, but it is better to change it right away. If the valve is broken, you will have to change it to a new one.
We offer a video instruction for replacing the fittings of the drain tank:
VIDEO
Noise when filling the tank with water cannot be called a breakdown, because. all mechanisms are correct. However, loud noises can be very annoying, interfere with proper rest.
Most often, the tank is loudly typed immediately after draining the water, then the noise becomes less.
Solving the problem is very simple.To do this, a small piece of rubber or plastic tube is put on the branch pipe of the locking mechanism.
The length should be such that the tube reaches the bottom of the container. After that, the tank will make much less noise.
In addition to such a device, there are other ways to get rid of noise during the operation of the tank. The cardinal solution is to replace the conventional float valve with a stabilizing one with a special chamber. In this case, you can forever forget about the noise and relax in comfort.
Repairing a toilet cistern is a simple procedure. To fix all the malfunctions with your own hands, it is enough to have time, desire and the simplest tools.
However, sometimes there are difficulties with the diagnosis of breakdowns or the repair itself. In this case, it is better not to experiment and call a plumber.
No matter how high-quality the toilet bowl and fittings are, problems arise from time to time: either water is not collected, or vice versa, it constantly flows from the drain. All these problems are associated with fittings (drain and inlet valves), which are placed in the drain tank. Next, we’ll talk about how to install it, change, adjust and repair it yourself, with your own hands.
No matter how the toilet looks, the filling in the cistern will be similar
The toilet cistern consists of two simple systems: a set of water and its discharge. To troubleshoot possible problems, you need to understand how everything works and works. First, consider what parts the old-style toilet bowl consists of. Their system is more understandable and visual, and the operation of more modern devices will be clear by analogy.
The internal fittings of a tank of this type are very simple. The water supply system is an inlet valve with a float mechanism, the drain system is a lever and a pear with a drain valve inside. There is also an overflow pipe - through it excess water leaves the tank, bypassing the drain hole.
The device of the drain tank of the old design
The main thing in this design is the correct operation of the water supply system. A more detailed diagram of its device is in the figure below. The inlet valve is connected to the float using a curved lever. This lever presses on the piston, which opens / closes the water supply.
When filling the tank, the float is in the lower position. Its lever does not put pressure on the piston and it is squeezed out by water pressure, opening the outlet to the pipe. Water is gradually drawn in. As the water level rises, the float rises. Gradually, he presses the piston, blocking the water supply.
The device of the float mechanism in the toilet bowl
The system is simple and quite effective, the filling level of the tank can be changed by bending the lever a little. The disadvantage of this system is a noticeable noise when filling.
Now let's look at how the drain of water in the tank works. In this embodiment, the drain hole is blocked by a pear of the drain valve. A chain is attached to the pear, which is connected to the drain lever. By pressing the lever, we raise the pear, the water drains into the hole. When the level drops, the float goes down, opening the water supply. This is how this type of cistern works.
VIDEO
They make less noise when filling the cistern for toilet bowls with a lower water supply. This is a more modern version of the device described above. Here the tap / inlet valve is hidden inside the tank - in a tube (in the photo - a gray tube to which the float is connected).
Drain tank with water supply from below
The mechanism of operation is the same - the float is lowered - the valve is open, water flows. The tank was filled, the float rose, the valve turned off the water. The drain system remained almost unchanged in this version - the same valve that rises when the lever is pressed. The water overflow system has hardly changed either - this is also a tube, but it is brought out to the same drain.
You can clearly see the operation of the drain tank of such a system in the video.
VIDEO
Models of toilet bowls with a button have similar water inlet fittings (some with side water supply, some with bottom) and drain fittings of a different type.
Tank device with push-button drain
The system shown in the photo is most often found in toilet bowls of domestic production. It is inexpensive and quite reliable. The device of imported units is different. They mainly have a bottom water supply and another drain-overflow device (pictured below).
Imported cistern fittings
There are different types of systems:
with one button, water is drained as long as the button is pressed;
with one button, draining starts when pressed, stops when pressed again;
with two buttons that release different amounts of water.
The mechanism of work here is slightly different, although the principle remains the same. In this fitting, when the button is pressed, a glass is raised that blocks the drain, while the stand remains motionless. In short, this is the difference. The drain is adjusted using a swivel nut or a special lever.
VIDEO
A significant part of toilet problems are solved by adjusting or replacing the cistern fittings. In any case, you need to know how to disassemble and assemble the inside of the tank. This skill will definitely help you. When replacing, you must first dismantle the old device, and then install a new one. We will describe in detail the whole process, including the installation of new fittings.
If a drain tank with a button is being repaired, it is not always immediately clear how to remove the lid. This is easy to do: press the button, turn the ring.
How to remove the lid from a tank with a button
If it doesn’t work with your fingers, pressing the button, consider its inner rim. There are two special slots. You can take a screwdriver with a narrow end, turn the ring a little with it. Then you can already twist it with your fingers.
After that, remove the button by pulling it up. Everything, the lid can be lifted.
VIDEO
To replace the old fittings of the flush tank, it must be removed from the toilet bowl. First of all, turn off the water supply, then drain the water from the tank. Then, using the keys, remove the water supply hose (it is attached to the side or bottom).
With the lower location of the water supply, it is located next to the mounting studs
Next, you need to disconnect the tank from the toilet bowl. If you look under it from below, you can see the bolts that are tightened with nuts. So we unscrew them using a set of open-end wrenches or an adjustable wrench. Before that, place a container near the toilet or lay a rag - a certain amount of water always remains in the tank, when you unscrew the nuts, it will drain.
Having unscrewed two nuts - on the right and on the left, we remove the tank. There is usually a gasket on the bowl. If it is deformed or dried out, it is also desirable to replace it.
Drain tank removed from the bowl
The tank is placed on a flat surface. There is a large plastic nut at the bottom of it. It holds the drain mechanism, we unscrew it. Sometimes the first turns have to be done with an adjustable wrench, but do not overtighten it - the plastic can be brittle.
Unscrew the nut holding the drain mechanism
Now the water drain mechanism can be easily removed.
This is what the cistern fittings look like after several years of work
We remove the water supply mechanism in the same way. With bottom feed, the fastening nut is also at the bottom (right or left of center).
Nut of fastening of the water supply mechanism
This removed the water supply device in the tank
After that, we look inside the drain tank. Usually, rusty sediment, small metal particles, sand, etc. accumulate at the bottom. All this must be removed, if possible, washed. The inside must be clean - trash that has fallen under the gaskets can cause a leak. After that, we begin the installation of new fittings.
Everything happens in reverse order. First, we install a new rack of the drain mechanism. We unscrew the plastic nut from it, put a rubber gasket on the pipe. It can be white (as pictured) or black.
We put a rubber gasket on the thread
We start the device inside the container, from the outside we wind the plastic nut.We twist it, as long as possible, with our fingers, then tighten it a little with a key. You can not overtighten - it will burst.
Install and tighten the nut
Now on the toilet bowl we replace the o-ring sealing its connection with the drain tank. Dirt and rust often accumulate in this place - we wipe it first, the seat must be dry and clean.
Fitting the sealing ring
Inside the tank we install the fixing bolts, not forgetting to put the gaskets. We put the drain tank in place until it can be leveled. The main thing is to get the screws and the outlet part into the seats. We take a washer, a nut and screw them onto the screws.
When both nuts are installed, but not yet tightened, we level the container. Then, using the key, we begin to tighten the mount. We twist a few turns, then to the right, then to the left.
Lastly, install the inlet valve for the drain tank. It could have been installed earlier, but then it is inconvenient to install the mounting bolts - there is too little space. We also put a gasket on the outlet pipe, then install it inside, fix it with a nut.
Tighten the intake valve nut
The next step is to connect water to the same pipe. Before connecting the flexible hose for water, we turn on the water for a while, making it possible to remove the scale that accumulates every time after closing the tap, even for a short time. Having lowered a certain amount of water (substitute a bucket so as not to wet the floor), we connect the hose to the fitting (we turn off the water again).
Connecting water to the toilet tank
Although the fitting is metal, it is also not necessary to tighten this connection strongly - first with your fingers, then one turn with a key. If drops are found when the water is turned on, you can tighten it another half turn. After that, we check if the system works correctly. If everything is correct, install the cover, fasten the button. You can test again. This completes the installation of the fittings of the drain tank. As you can see, everything can be done by hand.
VIDEO
During the operation of the toilet, problems periodically arise - either it flows, or, on the contrary, no water is drawn into it. Sometimes, tired of the inconvenience, people buy new toilets. But in vain. Most of the faults are fixed in 10-20 minutes. Moreover, everything is so simple that everyone can handle it. You don't have to call a plumber. You can do everything with your own hands.
We are talking about devices with a lower water supply. After installation, the toilet cistern must be adjusted. By default, they come from the factory set to the maximum amount of water in the tank. This amount is often excessive. With a simple adjustment, we can reduce the volume of water in the tank. For this:
Turn off the water supply, drain the water.
Unscrew the button.
We remove the cover.
Where is the adjusting screw
The same procedure is necessary if water constantly leaks from the tank. One reason is that the float is too high. Because of this, water flows through the overflow system.
VIDEO
With a side water supply and a float mechanism, the adjustment is even easier - we change the position of the float by bending its lever. On the one hand, it is easier, but on the other hand, it is more difficult. You have to bend it many times to achieve the required level.
By bending the float lever we change the water level in the drain tank
If the water in the toilet is constantly leaking, and its level is normal, we move on. There are several reasons for this leak. And if so, then the methods of elimination will be different.
The sealing gum under the drain valve in the tank silted up, dirt got under it, a groove (or several) appeared on its surface. The method of treatment is to clean the existing gasket or replace it with a new one. To reanimate the old one, you need:
turn off the water, flush it,
remove the trigger mechanism by unscrewing the plastic nut from the bottom;
pull out the drain valve, remove and examine the gasket, clean it of settled particles, if necessary (there are grooves), grind it with very fine sandpaper until smooth;
reinstall, connect everything and check the operation.
VIDEO
The trigger mechanism itself was demolished. To check if this is the case, you can lightly press on the mechanism with the cover removed. If the leak has stopped, then that's the issue. If not, you should try to clean the gasket (described above) or replace it. If the flow stops when pressed, you can replace the fittings or weight the glass.
To do this, remove the trigger mechanism and put something heavy in its lower part. It can be several pieces of metal, a sock filled with pennies, sand, etc. We install the device in place and check the work.
VIDEO
Another problem that you can fix with your own hands is that water is not drawn into the drain tank. Most likely it's a blockage - a filter or tubes are clogged. Long talk, better watch the video.
VIDEO
All drain tanks have a similar design. The difference is only in the mechanism of starting water.
Structurally, a toilet cistern with a button or two buttons, as well as a flush lever, can be represented as a set of interacting nodes:
filling valve . He is responsible for maintaining the water level at a certain level. The valve is controlled by a hollow float. When the water rises to the desired level, the float closes the water supply channel to the tank;Plastic float attached to the filling valve. Works on the principle of a rocker, rising when filling the tank;drain valve having an overflow system. Modern tank options involve controlling this valve by pressing a button. With manual control of the old-style drain, it is enough to pull the lever or chain to start water into the toilet;overflow is a mandatory component of the tank. It is adjustable in height, thanks to which the maximum water level is set. When this level is exceeded, water flows through the overflow pipe into the sewer without spilling out through its walls.
A tank with a mechanical drain is very simple to operate. Water enters it through the filling valve when the float is in the lowered position. After reaching a strictly defined level, the float shuts off the water supply. Drainage is controlled manually. If the tank is equipped with buttons, then the water is drained after pressing them. In this case, the drain valve partially or completely opens, passing water into the toilet. The float drops, slightly opening the filling valve.
The structure of the toilet flush tank with two buttons is a bit more complicated, but you can use such a tank more economically. If you press one of the buttons, the water is partially drained. Full drain occurs when the second button is pressed.
Increasingly, you can find new types of tanks that have bottom water connection . It is advisable to install them if the use of a side connection is not possible due to lack of space. The main difference between this tank is the presence of a membrane valve . Under the influence of water pressure in the pipeline, the valve opens slightly and passes water inside.When the water rises, the float presses on the piston rod, which gradually closes the diaphragm valve. When the set level is reached, the valve closes completely.
Drain malfunctions may well lead to the loss of the toilet bowl of its performance. For many, such a sudden breakdown can be a real natural disaster. In addition, no one will like the increased water consumption either.
And how to choose a pump to increase water pressure and in what situations it is needed, we told in another article on the site.
What kind of breakdowns are typical for drain tanks? We list them in order of frequency of occurrence:
1. Leakage of water from the toilet to the floor . Most often, water flows through the sealing ring located between the bottom of the tank and the toilet shelf. If the ring is cracked or warped, water will seep through it. Also, the place of leakage may be the gaskets of the mounting bolts with which the tank is attached to the shelf. They will have to be replaced if tightening the bolts does not work. And it doesn't matter if the cistern of an old-style toilet bowl is being repaired, or a modern system is being repaired. After all, they all have the same mounts.
Tip: When replacing gaskets and seals, it is recommended to lubricate them with liquid silicone to prolong their life and prevent cracking.
2. There is a constant flow of water in the toilet . Most often this is due to the overflow of the tank, in which water flows out through the overflow tube. This can happen due to a change in the height of the overflow, a loose fit of the float to the shut-off valve, and the loss of its tightness by the float. The rubber seal on the drain fitting may also be worn. Most often, the malfunction can be eliminated by adjustment. When the locking gasket is worn, it is desirable to replace the entire drain mechanism.
3. Starter malfunctions . If you are using a push-button water dispenser, water may not flow to the drain when the button is pressed. You can repair the fittings of the drain tank with your own hands, since, most often, the lever mechanism that connects the button to the drain breaks. This also applies to tanks with a handle or a chain.
4. Noisy tank filling . This happens due to the disconnection of the tube through which water is poured into the tank. This is typical for tanks in which water is supplied from the side. With a flown tube, the noise of incoming water will be clearly audible. To fix the problem, remove the top cover and install the tube on the fitting.
5. Water does not flow into the tank . Repairing a toilet cistern with a button or with other descent mechanisms in the event of such a problem comes down to checking the inlet to the cistern. It is necessary to remove the valve from the tank and clean the inlet with a thin steel wire and rinse it with water.
VIDEO
Many people who are used to old-style cistern do not know how to fix a toilet flush with a button. In fact, the differences between these systems are very minor. For many, the main problem is disassembling such a tank. Indeed, the button located on the tank lid requires careful handling during disassembly. But the device is very easy to disassemble.
VIDEO
The procedure will be as follows:
turn off the water;
empty the tank;
carefully unscrew the plastic nut near the button;
remove the cover.
Further actions depend on the nature of the breakdown. Breakdowns of a tank with a button can be as follows:
Little water is drawn into the tank. Check float position and adjust.
The water start button is stuck. This may be due to clogging of the button shaft.It is necessary to clean it, and set the button to its original position.
Water does not go into the toilet when the button is pressed. Most likely, there was a break in the mechanism between the button and the drain valve. You can restore it yourself. If this fitting is broken, then you can use copper wire to replace it or replace the valve completely.
Water flows through the overflow neck. Overflow height or float needs to be adjusted. The overflow is very easy to adjust. To do this, unscrew the union nut and set the desired overflow level.
Water flows into the toilet from under the valve. The drain valve gasket may have worn out. It is best to replace the entire valve. To do this, unscrew the plastic nut at the bottom of the tank and remove the valve from its place. Install a new valve.
Note: It happens that the valve is loosely in place due to skew. Re-opening and closing it helps eliminate the problem of leakage.
Economical water consumption adds popularity to such a plumbing fixture. And how to repair a toilet flush tank with two buttons? The principle of disassembling such a tank remains the same as that of the one-button version.
Typical breakdowns of a two-button tank:
Drop buttons. To install the buttons in place, remove the cover by unscrewing the retaining ring near the button. Sometimes the buttons fall into place if you press them again.
If the water does not drain, check the integrity of the connecting fittings. Replace it or replace it with a piece of copper wire.
The flow of water through the drain valve indicates the wrong position of the valve relative to the drain hole. If water overflows through the overflow, adjust the water level by changing the position of the float or the height of the overflow.
And if you are interested in how to install a shower cabin with your own hands, then we also have material on this topic.
Before buying a water filter, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with our tips for choosing them.
A tank with a bottom water connection uses a membrane-type filling valve. This may cause a problem with filling the tank with low pressure in the water supply system . The water pressure may not be enough to squeeze the valve and fill the tank. If low pressure is constantly maintained in your system, then it is better to replace the diaphragm valve with a rod analogue.
Another common problem is water leakage at the inlet valve reservoir. Its location is such that the valve is constantly under water. With insufficient tightness of the connections, the presence of leaks is almost guaranteed.
Repair of the toilet cistern with a lower water supply is carried out after shutting off the water supply and removing the cistern lid. After that, the problem is fixed using the same algorithms that are described for repairing models with buttons.
We figured out how to repair a flush tank with a button, with two buttons or with mechanical control. They differ slightly, mainly in the design of the control mechanism. The general principle of operation and repair for all considered devices is the same.
The video shows the repair of the toilet cistern with your own hands, or rather, the process of replacing its fittings.
VIDEO
When installing sanitary ware in a new house or a recently purchased apartment, you need to take care in advance about the correct installation of the toilet bowl, the strong connection of hoses and pipes, the serviceability of gaskets and fasteners. Old plumbing also occasionally requires a routine inspection. Due to poor water quality, fittings quickly wear out and fail, and then an urgent repair of the drain tank is required. The delay is worth the flooding of the home, including the neighbors below.
At first glance - the simplest device: a container equipped with a system for draining and supplying water. When the button is pressed, the mechanism drains the water, the supply valve opens, the empty container is refilled.
The main functional parts of the tank: 1(1) - inlet (filling) fittings; 1(2) - drain (drain) mechanism; 1(3) – water drain button. All details are connected
It turns out that even such an elementary device can break down. Let's consider in more detail how you can troubleshoot without resorting to the help of plumbers.
If water is constantly drawn into the tank and immediately flows into the toilet, look for a problem in the float mechanism. There can be several reasons for the breakdown:
intake valve wear;
skew of the lever ("rocker arm");
buoy malfunction.
The float (buoy) from long-term operation gives cracks through which water enters it. It sinks and ceases to perform the main function - it just needs to be replaced.
If the lever is bent, it is necessary to return it to the correct, horizontal position. The location of the lever is about 2 cm below the hole through which water enters.
Modern sets of drain fittings have a different structure - they do not include a traditional float on the rocker, although the principle of operation of the mechanism has been preserved
The valve that closes the incoming water has a different structure for different models. In some cases, the valve cannot cope with high pressure - it is necessary to install a float valve.
The loud noise that accompanies the process of filling the tank with water creates discomfort for others. It is easy to get rid of it by adjusting the diameter of the inlet or adding a small plastic tube to the fittings. Water will no longer flow freely, noisily into the tank, but will flow through the tube, respectively, the loud sound will disappear. To do this, we put a tube 30-35 cm long with one end on the hole, the other is placed below the water level with the tank drained. Even if the noise does not completely disappear, it will become quieter.
A plastic or rubber tube, worn over the inlet, muffles the noise of water entering the tank. This device is relevant for tanks with top connection
Here, most likely, the steel bolts, which are the fastening of the tank to the toilet shelf, have rotted - they must be urgently replaced. Having bought a new set of bolts, we proceed to dismantle the tank:
turn off the water by turning the valve perpendicularly;
dry everything inside and remove the remnants of rusty fasteners;
unscrew the nut and disconnect the intake valve;
we unscrew the old bolts fixing the tank on the toilet shelf;
remove the tank from the rubber tight cuff;
take out the old bolts. It is necessary to remove both, even if only one of them is faulty;
clean the junction of the bolts with the tank and the tank with the toilet;
we twist new brass or steel bolts;
we install the tank on the shelf, having previously fixed the cuff;
tighten the fasteners carefully so as not to damage the sanitary ware;
let the water in and check if it is leaking at the bottom of the tank; a couple of times we lower the water and check again.
Sometimes a leak may appear a little later, so for two days it is worth occasionally carefully examining the problem area. As you can see, it is not always necessary to carry out major repairs - sometimes it is enough to replace the fasteners.
To unscrew the bolts connecting the flush tank to the toilet shelf, a special tool is not needed: usually “lugs” are provided for a comfortable grip
Toilet cistern fixtures are available at every plumbing store. The price of the cheapest is 40-50 rubles, the more expensive option will cost 250-300 rubles
There can be no talk of any water savings if it constantly flows in a thin stream into the toilet bowl, preventing the required volume from accumulating in the container.
Most likely, the matter is in the siphon membrane, which has worn out and lost the ability to hermetically close the hole. The problem is solved by simply replacing the membrane with a new one.
To do this, follow several steps:
drain the water;
remove the siphon
remove the old membrane, install a new one;
put the siphon in place, attach it to the lever, screw the fixing nut.
Sometimes it's not the membrane, but the breakdown of the thrust, which can also be easily replaced.
The siphon membrane is located at the bottom of the drain fitting. It is a rubber gasket that ensures the tightness of the connection of parts.
So, suddenly, the water completely stopped flowing into the tank. Will self-repair be enough, or will I have to turn to plumbers? Let's consider three ways to solve this problem.
First, let's check the serviceability of the supply hose. We turn off the water, disconnect the hose from the tank and place it over any container (you can also above the tank). We unscrew the valve a little, let the water run again. If everything is in order with the hose, water will flow freely into the container. Otherwise, you will have to replace it.
It is possible that the connection point of the supply hose is clogged, since after the repair of the pipeline, sand and other mechanical impurities that can clog small holes get into the water. You can try to clean it with a long, sharp object, such as a screwdriver.
The cost of a new inlet hose is about 100 rubles. It is better to buy a product that has a shut-off valve - in case of leakage of the drain tank, it is much easier to shut off the water
Another reason is a malfunction in the float mechanism due to wear on the intake valve. In this case, it is better to replace the faulty float valve with a new one.
If you don’t want to mess around with small parts of worn-out fittings, you can simply remove the old one and install a new mechanism purchased in the store in its place.
When removing old fittings, pay attention to malfunctions. Perhaps a complete replacement of the mechanism is not required, sometimes it is enough to change one small detail
Sets of fittings for drain tanks have design differences. For example, their structure is different depending on the type of eyeliner - side or bottom
To begin with, let's figure out how best to disassemble the structure using the example of reinforcement with a bottom connection:
turn off the water;
carefully unscrew the button;
remove the cover;
we disconnect the eyeliner;
remove the drain column in parts: first, dismantle the upper part (by turning 90 degrees);
unscrew the fasteners of the drain tank;
we put it for further work on the toilet;
we unscrew two nuts: fastening the valve and column, we take out the second part of the fittings;
we install a new mechanism and carry out reverse work on installing the tank.
Video (click to play).
As you can see, changing the components of the tank is not difficult: the whole operation takes no more than 10-15 minutes. Another of the advantages of independent work is that no special tools are required, all actions are carried out with the help of hands, pliers and keys.
