Do-it-yourself drain pump repair

In detail: do-it-yourself drain pump repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The pump in the washing machine is designed to pump water into the drum, and drain the waste water through the drain hose into the sewer. Malfunctions in the operation of the pump are signaled by the control panel, on the display of which the corresponding error code appears. Under this breakdown, different manufacturers encrypt their code, so the same code in machines from different manufacturers may indicate breakdowns of a different nature.

If the pump breaks during washing, it will not be possible to drain the water, so the water will remain in the tank, and the hatch will not be able to open, since the control module will signal the continuation of washing or rinsing. Manufacturers use pumps of different design features and power, depending on the volume of water consumed.

If you are faced with a problem with a pump breakdown, contact our RemonTekhnik service center, where qualified specialists will diagnose and repair the drain pump, while you will be busy with your own business.

If the machine does not work correctly, then the following symptoms may indicate a malfunction of the pump:

The machine starts the drain program, as a result, the water does not drain, but remains in the tank;
When water is drained, a characteristic sound is heard;
Water is pumped out slowly, not completely;
The machine turns off until the water is completely drained;
The control module freezes;
The pump motor hums, but the water does not drain.

If you notice one or more of these signs, then in most cases this is due to a pump failure. To make sure of this, you should also check the drain hose and filter. Debris can accumulate here, which makes it difficult for the water to flow.

The location of the pump may vary from brand to brand. The easiest way to dismantle the pump is on washing machines from Indesit, Candy, Whirpool, Ardo, Beko, Samsung, LG, Ariston, since in them you can get to the necessary unit through the bottom. To open access to the pump, it is enough to put the household appliance on its side (so that the door is placed on the right, then the pump will be on top). Then unscrew the bolts (there may be bolts with a recessed head), and remove the power terminals. Then disconnect the drain hoses, which are attached with clamps. Often manufacturers use disposable clamps, you should take care of spare ones for installing the pump.

Video (click to play).

Important! If the pump breaks down, water may remain in the drum, nozzles and filter, so you should be aware of the water intake container.

In washing machines from some German manufacturers, Bosch, AEG, Siemens, the bottom has a hermetic protection, so access to the pump is opened through the front panel. Dismantling includes the following steps:

Remove the container for washing powder;
Slide the top cover (it is mounted on two self-tapping screws located on the back wall);
Remove the control module. When disconnecting the terminals, it is important to remember where which one is connected. Usually they have "fool protection" - they have a different size;
Dismantle the bottom panel (under the hatch);
Remove the front panel of the washer. Wires are connected to the hatch blocker, they must be disconnected. Do not make sudden movements, as you can damage the contacts. In the case where the panel does not fit, it is possible that the manufacturer used hidden bolts.
Remove the chips from the pump providing voltage;
Loosen the hose clamps.

Then you need to press on the pump and pull it out.

In new models of machines, in order to remove the snail from the pump, it is enough to turn it counterclockwise, otherwise you will have to unscrew the bolts. Then you should disconnect the filter, and check the condition of the impeller - whether debris interferes with its free rotation. The impeller may break if a foreign body enters.

If visually the pump is in order, it is necessary to disassemble the pump motor housing. To do this, carefully push the plastic latches and remove the motor from the coil. You can also check the presence and integrity of the bearings.

As a result of their loss, the impeller begins to rub against the snail, which leads to damage to both parts. All repair of the pump comes down to cleaning it, replacing seals and bearings. If the pump motor is damaged, it is better to replace it. Assembly and installation of the pump is carried out in the reverse order.

The video will help you to understand in detail the repair of the washing machine pump:

At the stage of draining, the washing machine freezes or stops working altogether? It's time to check the drain pump. In our article, you will learn how to disassemble the pump, learn how to locate it and make repairs yourself.

In most machines, only drain pumps are installed. They are responsible for draining the water after the end of the wash cycle. But in more modern models (Hansa, Bosch, Siemens) a circulation pump is used to increase pressure and supply water. Its power ranges from 25 to 35 watts.

Both types are powered by 220 volts.

Structurally, the pump consists of two parts: an engine with an impeller and a snail in the form of a plastic pipe. On one side, the snail is attached to a motor with two windings, and a drain filter is installed on the other. In older models of washing machines, the device may differ in the presence of two impellers instead of one. They pump fluid and cool the motor. At the same time, the electrician is protected by an oil seal from water ingress.

Most often, the device fails for the following reasons:

Engine bushings worn out;
The windings are closed or broken;
The impeller is broken or blocked.

But how do you know what's broken? Consider examples.

You started the wash cycle, everything went fine. But at the drain stage, the following happened:

Water does not drain from the tank;
The liquid leaves slowly, during the extraction or pumping out, the pump buzzes and makes noise;
Technique hung or turned off in the middle of the cycle;
The engine runs, but the water does not leave the tank.

Before you start repairing the suction pump, listen to its operation. If the pump buzzes when drawing water, but the tank does not fill up, disassembly and troubleshooting are required. Depending on the CM model (Lg, Samsung, Indesit), the display may show an error code. You will find its decoding in the instructions, after which you can proceed with the repair.

The circulation pump supplies water to the washing area. If you notice that the laundry is less washed or the washing solution is poorly sprayed in the drum during rotation, then inspection, cleaning or replacement of the element is necessary.

It all depends on the model of the machine. So, in the units "Samsung", "Ariston", Whirpool, LG there is no bottom, therefore, to dismantle the pumping system, it is enough to open access to the bottom. To do this, you will have to lay the car on its side or on the back wall.

Often the circulation pump is located next to the drain.

An expensive part is installed in the models of German manufacturers Bosch and Siemens. Access to it is complicated by the need to dismantle the front wall.

Through the back wall, a replacement is carried out for CM Electrolux and Zanussi.

Having decided on the location of the part, proceed to disassembly and replacement.

Disconnect the equipment from the mains electricity and water supply. Start by checking the drain filter and impeller.

Open the hatch door at the bottom of the front panel;
Unscrew the filter counterclockwise;

Substitute the container and wait for the water to drain;
Clean the filter from debris, then shine a flashlight into its mounting hole;
You will see the impeller. Scroll it if possible. If it does not rotate and is blocked, cleaning or replacement is required.

Lay the SM on the back wall. Lay a blanket on the floor so as not to damage the body;

There are three main ways to attach the drain pump: with screws and bolts, bayonet and latches.

First of all, disconnect the inlet hose and check for blockage. If after cleaning the equipment did not work normally, move on.

Remove the top cover screws. They are located at the back;
After removing the cover, unscrew the fasteners around the perimeter of the rear wall;
Start inspecting.

Pull out the powder flask by pressing the latch in the center;
Remove the top panel;
Disconnect the control panel fasteners. Disconnect contacts and put aside;

Bend the hatch cuff inside the tank, remove the clamp;

Unscrew the two bolts of the lock-lock;
Disconnect the lock contacts;
Unscrew the fixing bolts of the front panel;
Remove from place;

To replace, choose a part that exactly matches the characteristics of the previous one. It is best to remove the broken element and go to the store with it.

Disconnect the pump contacts;
Loosen the clamps, unscrew the bolts. If the part is mounted on latches, press them with one hand and pry with a screwdriver with the other.

After the pump is in your hands, inspect the mechanism. Clean holes and impeller. Disassembly required?

Remove the pump snail (pump cover);
To do this, turn it counterclockwise, or unscrew the bolts;
How to remove the impeller? It must be dismantled to clean the internal parts;
Pry off the housing latches and remove it;

If the cross is not removed, warm up its shank with a hairdryer, then pry it with a screwdriver;

After pulling out the magnet with the impeller, clean it of dirt;

Remove the magnet from the shaft. Behind it you will see a bearing;
Use pump lubricant to restore bearing performance;
If the element is beyond repair, install a new bearing;
Assemble the body in reverse order.

Here's how the disassembly goes:

Mechanical check completed. Let's get to the electronics.

Take a multimeter tester;

Turn it into voltage measurement mode;

Attach the probes to the contacts of the part;

Look at the screen. Is 0 or 1 on? The motor burned out and needs to be replaced;

If a three-digit number is displayed, then the problem may not be in the engine, but in the electronic board. A more accurate diagnosis will be carried out by the master.

Let's consider how to replace the circulation pump using the example of a Veko automatic washing machine.

Open access to the bottom of the SM;

The circulation device is located next to the drain. Turn off the wiring and attach the multimeter probes to its contacts;

In the normal state, the resistance will be about 180 ohms. In case of discrepancy, unscrew the fastening screws, install a new part.

Repair details are shown in the video:

In order to properly repair a washing machine, you should first study the theory. It turns out that automatic washing machines break down from time to time. Some of them are literally catastrophic, some can be easily repaired on their own. That is, do not take it to the workshop, but fix it at home.

First, it would be nice to determine the cause of the breakdown. Sometimes it only seems that it is a pump, but it happens that it is not at all about it. Therefore, you first need to inspect the machine yourself.

Materials for repairing the washing machine nozzle are sold in a specialized store

It is done like this:

The pump must first be listened to;
Open and, if necessary, clean the drain filter;
Check and also clean the drain hose;
It is necessary to further check how the pump impeller rotates, sometimes it is a banal jamming;
Next, you should check the sensors and contacts that go to the pump.

Some breakdowns of the “washers” can be detected even by ear, and it is not necessary to be a master. Wait until the machine starts to drain (or fill). If you hear the pump buzzing, trying to work intensively, water does not enter the tank, or even no sounds from the pump at all, you can say that you have identified a malfunction.

Sometimes the pump only needs to be replaced, but in some cases it can be repaired. The impeller of the pump can jam from a bra bone or an ordinary coin that has fallen into the filter. Checking the drain hose for blockages is also necessary. The impeller of the pump can be twisted and checked for foreign objects in it.

Often the impeller itself flies off the axis. And the pump turns on, even makes sounds, but does not pump water. You need to purchase a new impeller, and mount it in place of the broken one. When disassembling the pump, be sure to inspect the rubber gaskets.

To qualitatively repair the pump of the washing machine, you should watch the training video

It happens that even small signs of mining are visible on the gaskets, which means that it is better to replace these elements. The moving parts of the pump also need to be inspected. Usually, all pump parts are cheap, just buy original parts so that the repair is certainly of high quality. In the Samsung typewriter - only parts for Samsung, in Reinford - the corresponding ones.

And this is a more difficult task, and if you are not sure that you know how an electric motor works, it is better not to take on such a thing. What can "fly" in the motor? Usually lamellas, windings and brushes break.

The most common engine malfunctions:

brushes. Their damage is revealed through engine sparking. Worn brushes are small, but a whole brush is long, without chips or cracks.
Winding. This malfunction is indicated by the operation of the engine with incomprehensible noises, buzzing or crackling.
slats. If it's them, just inspect the manifold by completely removing the rotor from the engine.

Replacing brushes is usually not difficult. It only happens that their fasteners are hidden so deep that it has to be completely disassembled. Usually old engines sin with this, and if the sample is new, then it is enough to arm yourself with an ordinary screwdriver. She hooks the fasteners that protrude near the collector itself.

Repair of the washing machine engine should be carried out with the appropriate experience.

When the brushes are replaced, you need to try to scroll the motor. The brushes themselves should gently rustle over the lamellas, without clinging to them, without making any noise. To remove an element and put a new one, take pictures of everything. So you save yourself from incorrect assembly of parts.

Suppose you are faced with the fact that the detachment of the lamellas happened. Assess how big the problem is. If the delamination is not more than half a centimeter, then you can cope with the task when turning on a lathe. Then you need to clamp the rotor, and carefully even out the thickness of the lamellas.Then carefully clean the gaps between the lamellas, there should be no traces of metal chips.

As a result - a flat surface of a large number of lamellas. And after all, well-cleaned gaps are also important. And to make sure that everything is fine, you need to check the resistance between the lamellas with an ohmmeter. If the device shows a short circuit, then you need to more thoroughly clean the gaps.

Sometimes the groove will not work. Yet in most cases, the effect is eliminated, not the cause. Yes, and it is no longer possible to return the lamellas to the factory appearance. If it has peeled off completely, or even come off, it's time to throw the engine away, there's nothing to be done.

Very often the machine simply does not start. And then the person wonders if it's time to call a special service. But the simplest diagnosis can be done independently. At least, if it's about starting (or rather, not starting) the machine.

Modern washing machines allow you to diagnose them using a regular smartphone.

The machine may not start for the following reasons:

There is no electricity - the socket may be faulty, or the switchboard does not work, or the wire is damaged;
The start button is broken - the contacts could have oxidized, or even a critical breakdown occurred;
The lid is not closed tightly, which means that the hatch is not blocked - check the tightness of the hatch, the sensor should receive a signal that the lid is closed;
Interference filter defects - when such an element fails, the access of electricity is blocked, the device does not turn on;
Damage to the electrical control module - well, only professional repairs are possible here.

Everything related to software (breakdown of the timer, choice of programs) is best left to professionals. This requires special diagnostics and the same repair. Otherwise, you can simply harm incompetent actions.

Washing machine breakdowns are common. And very often they talk about violations of exploitation. Consult with experts about the choice of means for washing and caring for the appliances themselves. Machines during operation should not jump and “walk”, if so, check if it is standing correctly and carry out a preventive inspection of the equipment.Do-it-yourself repair of the drain pump of your washing machine without calling a wizard is quite possible. But first you need to carry out a simple diagnosis of the device.If the machine does not work properly, before disassembling the drain system, you need to make sure that the malfunction is in this place. It can be identified in several ways:

the water drain program has turned on, but the pumping system does not work;

during the drain, strong noises and buzz are heard;

water is pumped out, but flows out very slowly;

during the operation of the system, the machine may turn off;

pump motor hums but no water comes out.

If one of these breakdowns is found, it is highly likely that you will have to repair the washing machine pump.To extract the pumping system from the body of the automatic washing machine (SMA), there are different methods, depending on the model of the unit. In models of Whirpool, Samsung, Ariston, Beko, LG, and others, no bottom. Accordingly, you can remove the pump by tilting or laying the device on its side, and detaching the bottom panel (open the door or hatch). After that, the screws that fasten the snail with the filter to the front bar will be visible.Everything is very simple in CMA Electrolux and Zanussi. Enough to open back cover machines, and you will see the desired node that needs to be disassembled. The most difficult access to the required part in CMA AEG, Bosch and Siemens. You can get to the pump only by removing front wall washers.But before removing and repairing the drain pump in the washing machine, you must first check the reasons why water may not be pumped out:

heavy blockage drain hose (it is necessary to remove it and clean it well);

drain filter clogged with debris (remove the filter from the snail and rinse well with water).

If the check and cleaning did not give results, after a test run of the rinse and drain mode, you need to remove the part and try to repair it.To disassemble the pump for troubleshooting, first disconnect it from snails. To do this, you need to unscrew the screws.Some models of pumps have a different fastening to the volute. Just turn it counterclockwise and it will detach.In the next troubleshooting step, check impeller. Although it can be seen without disassembling the entire structure: just pull out the drain filter. Visually determine whether it is broken or not, perhaps. But to find out whether it scrolls on the shaft or is fixed will not work without complete disassembly.The figure below shows a broken impeller due to the entry of an ordinary coin into the system.The impeller should not rotate easily. Normally, it rotates with some delays (jumps) due to the magnet rotating in the coil.If rotation is difficult, and no visible interference in the form of various debris is observed, then the pump will have to be completely disassembled.To do this, using a screwdriver, pry the latch on the motor housing on both sides, and remove it from the coil.There are still so-called “non-separable” motors, but they are also amenable to “treatment”.After detaching the body with the blades from the coil, we will see a monolithic part. It seems that the cross is impossible to remove. But there is a little trick.

Take the regular building hair dryer, set it to the lowest temperature, put on gloves, and start warming up the shank of the part (its long part). Do it with care.

After a while, when the shank warms up well, pry crosspiece screwdriver and carefully remove it (along with the magnet) from the housing.

There can be a lot of dirt on the magnet and in the place where it was taken from. It is necessary to clean everything thoroughly, after which you can remove the magnet itself from the shaft. You will see bearingrequiring, respectively, cleaning and lubrication. Lubricate the bearing at the bottom of the housing as well.Then insert everything into place, with a little pressure until it clicks. Sealing ring, located under the blades, should sit tightly in its place.The figure below shows a dirty motor from an Indesit typewriter.In motors of this type, in addition to the above procedures, oil seals may need to be replaced.Contamination is not the only reason for device malfunction. When the bearings fail, a beating occurs during the rotation of the shaft. Due to the beating, the impeller begins to rub against the casing of the snail. This causes noise and unproductive pump operation, up to a complete stop.This problem is solved by replacing ball bearings, which can be purchased at specialized outlets or at a service center for servicing household appliances.If at the moment it is not possible to buy a new part, and washing cannot wait, then you can temporarily extend the life of the pump by shortening blades 2 mm with a sharp knife. But do not overdo it: if you cut off more, system performance will drop.After cleaning, replacing bearings or seals, the repair of the motor can be considered complete. Install the body with the blades into the coil and secure with the latches. In observance of safety rules, connect voltage 220 V to two contacts, and check the work devices. After making sure that the device is working properly, you can connect the volute and return the entire structure to the SMA body.As you can see, do-it-yourself repair of a washing machine pump is not such an impossible task and can be done by anyone who has carefully read these recommendations.

The master's washing machine pump is jokingly called the "heart". The main task of the pump is to pump water into the washing tank, and then pump out the waste liquid from the tank.Sooner or later, the time comes to repair the pump or replace it with a new one, because along with the engine, this unit experiences the greatest stress and is subject to the greatest wear. As part of the article, we will tell you how to check the pump, how to get to it, and how to repair it yourself. We hope this information will be useful to you.

Before you rush to disassemble the washing machine with your own hands and change the pump, you should accurately determine the cause of the breakdown. It is very possible that the reason is not at all in the pump, here you need to figure it out as thoroughly as possible. Let's proceed as follows.

First you need to listen to the pump.
Open and clean the drain filter if necessary.
Check and clean the drain hose.
Check the rotation of the pump impeller, possibly jamming.
Check the sensors and contacts going to the pump.

Some malfunctions can be localized by ear without being a specialist, so go to the washing machine during operation and listen. Wait for the moment when the machine starts to drain or fill water, acting according to the program. If the pump is buzzing, trying to work intensively, but no water enters the tank or the pump does not make sounds at all - consider that the malfunction is localized.

After you are convinced that the pump is not working as it should, you should determine exactly whether it needs to be replaced or whether you can repair it yourself. First of all, open the drain filter and clean it from debris with your own hands.

It is possible that the pump impeller is jammed due to a coin or a bra bone caught in the filter, so it does not work as it should.

If cleaning the filter did not help, check the drain hose for blockages. To do this, the hose must be dismantled and rinsed with hot water. Replace the hose and run a test wash. If the pump continues to "act up", then you need to look further.

Next, you need to check the rotation of the impeller of the drain pump of the washing machine. The impeller can be reached without even disassembling the machine, through the drain filter, which must be unscrewed. To make it more convenient, get a flashlight and shine it into the hole from which you unscrewed the cork.

In the hole you can see the pump impeller. Put your hand through the hole and rotate the impeller with your fingers, checking how it works. If the rotation of the impeller is difficult, try to feel for foreign objects that interfere (very often these are threads, pile, wire, etc.). If the impeller rotates freely or the cause of the difficult rotation has not been found, you will have to disassemble the washing machine with your own hands.

Having reached the pump, we check the impeller. If necessary, the drain pump can be dismantled and inspected more carefully. If there are no threads and lint, and the impeller still does not spin well, then the reason is in the mechanism and the pump must be disassembled. If the impeller spins normally, but works every other time, then the problem is in burnt contacts, a sensor or a control unit.

If everything is checked, but the pump still does not work, then it must definitely be replaced.

The composition of the necessary tools and components will depend purely on the nature of the problem, so we will describe the option, as they say, to the maximum, if everything is bad with the pump. In this case, the repair of the washing machine may require the following components:

drain pump assembly;
impeller;
axis;
cuff;
pad;
pulley;
drain pump sensor;
contacts.

Purchase a new pump and parts for it should be prudent. It is best to take the old unit, take it to a point of sale that sells similar products, and the sales assistant will help you make a choice. The same should be done with accessories. Bring the pump disassembled to the store and they will give you the right part for it.

Important! If you decide to order components in an online store, then you should look for them by the numbers that you need to read on the old pump you removed.

With tools, things are easier. In most cases, it can be removed with a Phillips screwdriver and a penknife. However, if it becomes necessary to check the performance of electricians (sensors, contacts, wiring), you will need to get a multimeter.

To get to a faulty drain pump, it is not at all necessary to disassemble the entire washing machine. Repair will depend on the model of equipment and its manufacturer. It is very easy to get to the pump of washing machines of some manufacturers, with others it is more difficult, but first things first.

The easiest way to get to the pump of washing machines: Samsung, Candy, Ariston, Ardo, Beko, Whirpool, LG, Indesit. To do this, turn the washing machine of one of these companies on its side, remove the bottom cover (if any) and the pump will be at hand.
The situation is a little more complicated with washing machines such as Electrolux and Zanussi. To get to their pump, you will need to deploy the washing machine and remove its back wall by unscrewing a few screws.
The most difficult thing is to get to the pumps of washing machines from manufacturers such as AEG, Bosch, Siemens. In this case, you will have to dismantle the front wall along with the control panel. For information on how to do this, read the article Replacing the pump in the washing machine.

As mentioned above, the washing machine pump is quite simple in design and it is not difficult to repair it. If there is no visible damage on it, then you need to disassemble it and carefully examine all the elements. One of the most common breakdowns of the washing machine pump is the failure of the impeller. Very often, it simply flies off the axis, while the pump itself will turn on, make sounds, but will not pump water. We see the solution to the problem in buying a new impeller and installing it in place of the old, broken one.

When disassembling the pump, carefully inspect all rubber gaskets. If even the slightest traces of mining are visible on them, the gaskets must be replaced. Also inspect all moving parts of the pump, including the pulley, for wear and replace if necessary. Pump parts cost a penny, but if you neglect to replace them, or use non-original spare parts, you can waste time and end up replacing the entire pump.

Note! When repairing and dismantling an old pump, keep in mind that it can have quite a lot of stagnant water, so be sure to put a container or a large rag nearby.

As a result, we note that it is quite possible to repair a washing machine, or rather its pump, with your own hands, without resorting to the help of a specialist. To do this, you need to study the rules for the production of work and other useful information, which we have summarized in our article. Good luck!

Video (click to play).