Do-it-yourself smartphone repair socket replacement

If your phone, tablet, laptop does not accept charging , then perhaps it is necessary replace the power connector but first you need to make sure that the problem is in it.

How can you understand that Is the problem with the charging port?

Firstly, you need to remember what happened before the device stopped charging? Is it possible that your equipment has been dropped (especially if the charging cable has been inserted)? Maybe you pulled the power cord sharply? Is it possible that dust, dirt got into the system socket, or the plug of the power cable was flooded? Even after a fall, the rechargeable battery may depart, and the phone, of course, will not charge. Perhaps you used some other charging device that you were not familiar with (at a party, at work, in a cafe), or used a charger in the car (very often leads to phone breakdown). All of these factors and more can cause a power jack to fail.

Secondly, we need to see what is happening now. How does the gadget behave when the charger plug is connected?

What is the reaction with another charger? Is there a charging indication on the screen of a tablet, phone, laptop? Or is he completely "dead"?

If you know that before your device stopped charging, there was some unpleasant event from the above (or some other), and you carried out test measures (reinserted the battery, tried another AC adapter), then with a high probability We can say that you have a problem with the charging socket. Although there is a possibility that the problem may be more serious.

Important! An essential feature of this type of malfunction is the impossibility of repairing the power connector under warranty, since the warranty service center will 100% fix mechanical damage (bent or broken contacts, deformation) or improper operating conditions (dirt or a triggered moisture ingress marker). Even if the reason for the failure of the socket is a factory defect, it is practically impossible to prove this, since it looks identical to mechanical damage (delaminated connector legs on the board or broken contacts inside the socket). Sad but true.

In general, the most common causes of charging socket failure are:

1. Mechanical damage: a) the plug is inserted incorrectly and the contacts are damaged or the connector is deformed; 2) pulled the power cable when it was inserted into the device; c) inserted a foreign object into the connector (the best child's play) d) falling or hitting (in this case, the connector pins may move away from the system board).
2. PollutionA: Dust, dirt, foreign particles often cause the charging to not work.
3. Ingress of moisture, liquids: flooding the connector very often leads to its malfunction and more serious damage to the power circuit.
4. Manufacturing defectA: Not soldering the power connector tracks on the system board can cause it to malfunction over time.

It is not uncommon for a case when it is a faulty charger (adapter). Important! It is extremely dangerous to use and experiment with such a power supply - you can disable your equipment (burn the “power controller” chip and other “sensitive” elements in the power circuit).

The surest way is to seek qualified help from a trusted reliable Service Center!

Our engineers will quickly diagnose, find the problem and fix your equipment.We can replace the charging socket with any model of any device - phone, tablet, laptop. We are waiting for you in our service centers!

Our phones in Murmansk: 70-69-77, 20-19-19

Replacing the power connector with a digital technician has a number of nuances and its own specifics, depending on the type of equipment. For example, in modern smartphones and tablets, everything is very tiny and the layout of parts is very dense. The laptop's power supply has a different specificity - the charging socket is either soldered on the board or removable on the cord, and sometimes, to get to it, you need to disassemble the device to a single screw. Now let's look at how to replace the power connector on specific types of digital equipment.

So, if your phone has stopped charging, then the problem lies, as a rule, in the power connector. As mentioned earlier, the layout of the components in the phone is very dense and all the details are miniature, which makes it non-trivial to repair a cell phone.

First you need to completely disassemble the smartphone in order to remove the system (motherboard) board, on which the USB connector is soldered. By the way, it is called a usb-connector in everyday life, correctly this charging socket is called micro-USB. This is the most common power connector today, but there are exceptions, for example, for Chinese phones or older models of Nokia, LG, Samsung, Sony Ericsson and others. Now all the leading manufacturers have recognized the need for standardization and are releasing cell phones with a Micro Usb connector. Meanwhile, in terms of repair / replacement of such connectors, there are still difficulties: although the socket is standardized for the user, its attachment to the motherboard can be completely different (bottom, top, different number of pins, different mounting method).

When the phone is completely disassembled, the service engineer proceeds to inspect the spawn and determines how best to repair the socket. And here, as they say, there can be nuances:

The power connector is physically intact, but its contacts have been unsoldered from the motherboard. This often happens when the phone is subjected to force (the charging cord was pulled hard when it was connected to the device), but a manufacturing defect is also possible. In this case, there is no point in changing the part for a new one, and the repair is cheaper for the client with the same quality. It looks like this:





The charging socket on the phone is clearly damaged (physical damage visible to the naked eye). In this case, it definitely needs to be changed. It looks like this:

A more unpleasant option for the client is when the socket is obviously damaged, but it can only be changed in combination with other parts. Modern cell phones are becoming thinner, more compact, and the electronic components in them are getting smaller. For example, the bottom board, to which the power connector is soldered, is so thin in some models of mobile phones that it cannot withstand heat and warps. In this case, there is only one way out - to change the power connector assembly with this board, and this increases the cost of repairs. Also, more and more often there are new models of phones in which the power connector is built into the cable, and in this case it definitely changes along with the entire cable. A typical example is the world-famous Apple iPhone, as well as some models of Samsung, Lenovo, Redmi. Here is an example of how it looks:




1. Perhaps you will be surprised, but the situation can be even more complicated. Some phone manufacturers (Samsung especially sins with this) have come up with a new phone design, in which, in order to disassemble the device, you first need to unsolder the phone screen! Yes, yes, you heard right. Now you will no longer be able to replace, for example, the battery in your cell phone without the help of a service center. Also, to replace the charging connector, it will be necessary to heat up and carefully remove the display module (screen) of such a phone. In this case, there are certain risks of damaging the screen.For "two kopecks" no service center will do such an operation, therefore, the price of replacing the power socket increases in this case. Trust a private person? A sure way to say goodbye to your smartphone forever. It didn’t work out, it broke, well, it happens. What to take from me? Bribes are smooth. But warranty and quality repair is very important really, right? Running after someone in search of justice is more the lot of sprinters, I guess!

From the experience of our workshop, charging ports on cheap Chinese phones ark, ZTE, Fly, Meizu, Alcatel, Explay, Digma, Keneksi most often break, although this often happens with well-known cell brands: Lenovo, Sony, Samsung.

Our rating of the most unreliable phones and tablets in terms of "fragility" of the charging socket: URSUS 7M2, FLY FS401, Recxon R5, ark benefit m8, Lenovo A7600-H, Lenovo A369i, Samsung Galaxy S3 i9300, philips w6500, Digma VOX S507 4G, Oysters tablet pc i t102er 3g

So, when we decided that the problem lies precisely in the charging socket, it is extremely important to change it qualitatively! It depends on how long the replaced port and the phone itself will last (yes, the device can be damaged during replacement and shorten its service life).

Private traders or novice services use only a hairdryer and a soldering iron (or only one of these two tools) for the replacement process. Doing so may damage the phone board that the connector is attached to. To prevent this from happening, it is extremely important to use a professional tool. In particular, the fee must be evenly heated with bottom heating. All temperature-sensitive components and elements of the phone must be insulated with heat-resistant tape. This is a guarantee of high-quality repair of any digital equipment from cell phones to laptops. Proper repair as follows:

The telephone board is preliminarily heated evenly with the help of the bottom heating. All heat-sensitive elements are insulated with heat-resistant foil. The phone jack after such a repair will last a very long time. The phone board itself is also intact. You can rely on such a cell phone in the future!

They dragged a Chinese tablet with the words "not charging."

Plugging the charger into the connector, I immediately realized that the connector was simply torn from the board. The most common failure. Well, let's start dissecting our client. To do this, with a tenacious gaze, we peer around the perimeter of the tablet and look for the screws that hold it together. Without thinking for a long time, we unscrew these screws

Next, with the help of a pick, we will half our tablet into two parts. We start from the opposite edge and lead in the direction where we have all the connectors and slots for a memory card

I don’t see the point in disassembling where the memory chip is located, percent and other various mikruhi, since basically repairing a tablet involves replacing the touchscreen, display and connectors.

And here is the micro-USB charging port. We need to replace him.

Now we need to get paid. We unscrew all the bolts that hold it. We also remove all the loops that go to the board. To do this, lift the clasp with your finger up.

If the wires interfere, we also solder them. I just unsoldered the battery. Since our connector is torn out with meat and gouged, we immediately throw it away. We begin to clean the seat for the new connector. To remove solder in through holes, we need Wood's or Rosé's low-melting alloy. To begin with, we plentifully tin holes with this alloy, do not forget to also smear with gel flux. We heat the through hole together with the alloy using a soldering iron and then sharply, using a desoldering pump, pull all the solder out of the hole

I took the rubber tip for the desoldering pump from an old CD car radio. I don’t know what they are doing there, but there are even two of them.

Now we remove all excess solder from the contact pads (patch patches) using a copper braid and a heated soldering iron

After this procedure, on the signal contacts with a soldering iron, solder and gel flux, we need to leave solder bumps on each contact pad. Although this photo is from a different repair, but with an example it should turn out something like this:

Now we take a new connector and smear its contacts with LTI-120 flux

A little about the connectors ... There are a lot of these micro USB connectors! Almost every manufacturer of tablets, phones and other garbage uses their own micro USB connectors. But I still found a way ;-).I went to Aliexpress and bought myself a whole set at once. Here link . But now I have any kind of connectors for Chinese phones and tablets 😉

As soon as the connector was anointed, we solder its contacts. The main thing here is not to overdo it, otherwise the connector will not fit into the through holes on the board.

Further, everything is simple. We insert the connector, solder the through contacts on the other side, and then generously lubricate the signal contacts of the connector with gel flux and press each contact with the tip of the sting. (Sorry, it’s inconvenient to take a photo, since I only have two hands, and there was no one around)

Next, we spray Flux-off (more details about it in the article Chemistry for an electronics engineer)

and then we clean the connector from poop and soot

We do everything as it was and check the tablet:

Charging is on. We collect the tablet completely and give it to the user.

Hello everyone. Today I will tell you in detail and show how I change micro-USB connectors and other trifles “on my knees”, i.e. at home, without having a special skill and special professional expensive stray and substances. Just armed with inspiration, always helping out optimism, ingenuity, perseverance, patience and enough time.

Yesterday they brought me a smartphone for repair Lumia Denim 630 with a faulty power socket, with the words: “It shows charging - but it doesn’t want to charge!” The smartphone looked monolithic, without screws and latches, I thought: ,, Well, here it is! Now I’ll have to warm it up with a hairdryer! ”, Although, after fiddling, it turned out that it opens easily, since the insides lie in the lid - “trough” which is easily separated (on internal latches). Those. Nokia developers have thought of everything in a military way. For this, they have a savory like from me!

Outwardly, the socket turned out to be in good condition, no cracks were found on the soldering, which means, as often happens, the malfunction lay in the erased contacts inside the connector. I decided to boldly change to a new one. After the repair, I dismantled the old socket and indeed the contacts were in mud, in “oil felt” and looked worn. I forgot to take a picture, but in general what kind of dead connectors are, look at the photo attached to the article.

A sure sign that the nest needs to be changed

I bought nests on Ali Express, a bunch of about 100 pieces, 10 types, which is convenient.

Picked up a suitable, but not identical, which had to be finalized, filed.

Nest to be fitted

As it turned out later, with an almost external similarity of the socket, the gilded contacts did not fit on it in height, i.e., “floated” above the board! Take note!

Nest adjusted, but did not notice the inconsistency with the original

I had to re-select the nest, file it again, adjust it, since there was no need.

Nest to be fitted

When fitting, a slight skew of the nest was revealed, i.e. the opening of the fastening locks of the nest, which had to be put in place, soldered and slightly adjusted to the cover of the smart with a sharp knife.

And all because the nests ordered in bulk are cheap, which means they are simpler, made of not very durable metal, in comparison with native nests. Native nests, as a rule, are very expensive, they are made soundly, reliably, but you can’t stock up on such for any occasion. Ordering relatives in China and tedious waiting is problematic. Decided dismantling the old nest, weighing the pros and cons, and comparing the price tags in Ali.

For desoldering, I use a special hot air gun, although you can completely get by with a building hair dryer, while being vigilant and attentive so as not to “fry” Everything around.

Be sure to cover all plastic parts, capacitors, with confectionery foil or chocolate, otherwise they may melt! Then kirdyk to your smart can come to the offensive suddenly and hopelessly! 🙂 I.e. first, warm up the entire board in a circular motion so that it does not get driven by the “propeller” from the temperature difference, and then heat the nest itself in a circular motion (about 300 degrees, check with a multimeter temperature sensor or manage with intuition and fingers).Before warming up, it is advisable to simply solder the socket with ordinary solder with flux or rosin (mix your own tin with the factory one, this will make desoldering easier), since the factory solder on the board is often lead-free, which causes problems with desoldering the socket.

By the way, for the convenience of work, I completely manage with the usual confectionery silicone rug, as professional roads.

It holds high temperatures and nothing slips on it, i.e. something practical and appropriate. I also use a special board holder with “crocodiles”, with which I conveniently fix the board.

Rug and holder purchased on Ali. In general, you can do without them, including the thinker. 🙂

After desoldering, I use a braid moistened with flux or rosin, leaning it with a soldering iron and leading them along the tracks and holes with tin, also pre-lubricated with flux.

desolder braid

As a result, the braid absorbs all the interfering solder, leaving everything around clean (cool idea!). The only thing to keep in mind, do not rip off the tracks and contact pads with a braid! This also happens! Be careful and don't rush!

I forgot to say that soldering the socket with a soldering iron is problematic and risky. Of course, with good experience, you can also desolder in a sophisticated way - with the help of one large drop of solder, covering the entire socket with it and looking at not “staggering” and not sticking adjacent parts to your mega-drop, etc. But still it is masterfully done by people with a full hand and experience. Another option, in the workshops earlier (when there were no hair dryers, during the USSR) they made (bought) special nozzles-stings for the necessary connectors and sockets, which made it possible to bring heat to all the required areas at a time and easily solder. It was an excursion, but for you it’s still easier with a hot air gun.

Ideally, for soldering small parts in workshops, a special microscope is successfully used. I use magnifying glasses, since I can’t afford a good microscope yet, and taking a cheap one is just money down the drain.

I also use a set of watch screwdrivers for disassembly and assembly, and I also use them with pleasure as convenient small cleaners (from rosin on the board), pickers, pushers, pulling out the legs of elements, etc. Acquired in the nearest hardware store, for a symbolic amount.

Set of cheap watch screwdrivers

The varieties of tweezers I purchased in Ali and in the Fix Price help a lot. In the same case, female cosmetic tweezers may come in handy.

The tip of your family's forty-watt soldering iron will need to be sharpened at a sharp angle and with a slightly rounded end in order to neatly and efficiently crawl up to the socket legs and painlessly for neighboring radio elements.

Or just wind the copper wire around the tip and use it as a thin tip, in the common people: “Mini soldering iron in a hurry”!

It is advisable to buy a cheap power regulator for fixtures, with which you will regulate the temperature of the sting so that the rosin on the sting does not quickly turn into soot, so as not to overheat the conductive paths and so that they do not fly off.

Lamp power regulator

You can, of course, without a power regulator, but then you have to solder with short-term touches so as not to overheat the tracks and often boringly clean the sting from black rosin oxides. And again - and this is the art of the possible, on the verge of risk. Decide for yourself.

After that, be sure to check how you soldered, whether everything looks beautiful, whether anything sticks out, whether there is a so-called. ,, snot" between the contact pads, as this can cause a short circuit and is fraught with more serious damage to the device. Use a little braid, if you can’t remove the snot with a sting, it will take away excess solder, and the tin will fall off under the leg of the nest. If, nevertheless, a little remains, then lubricate the place with rosin and lightly tear off the remnants of tin between the contacts with a sting. But do not overdo it, the solder should be in the form of a sufficient drop covering the contact for the strength of the contact.Do not spare the flux (rosin) so that the soldering is electrically conductive (and not the so-called "cold" or "dry" soldering, which is not conductive).

Now, partially, without screws, we assemble the smartphone, connect the cables, turn it on, check for operability, if everything is fine, charging is in progress, the battery shows that it is accumulating charge, then we finally assemble it by screwing and closing the back decorative cover.

For clarity of the process of replacing the socket, I cut you gifs from the video of the work of a professional. Watch and pay attention.

In this article, I will tell you how to properly change the charging socket on a micro USB phone or tablet. This method has been developed over the years, and in my opinion is the fastest and most reliable.

• Active soldering flux or weak soldering acid, you can also use aspirin tablets, just be careful the smoke is caustic.
• Flux RMA-223 buy in syringes here: https://ali.pub/lqw23
• Any soldering station where there is a hair dryer and a soldering iron.
• Suitable micro usb connector.
• I take the tin in the coil preferably 0.3mm here: https://ali.pub/mieuo
• You can buy tweezers where I get them.
• Well, everything is like

And so we disassemble the phone or tablet, take the board with the charging socket and fix it, for fixing I use the card holder bought here: https://ali.pub/4lstm

We fix so that the contacts of the back of the connector are on top, then we apply the flux for soldering rma-223 to all the contacts of the connector, turn on the hair dryer on the soldering station with the temperature set to 330-350 degrees Celsius. And yes, I almost forgot if there are plastic parts near the charging socket, for example, a camera, or a microphone, they need to be protected from high temperatures, for this I use heat-resistant foil, I took it here: https://ali.pub/905dy

We leave only the charging connector not covered with foil and start warming it up with a hairdryer, so that the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bcontact with the board warms up, I make quick circular movements and after about a minute, one and a half, the socket is easily removed from the board with tweezers.

Next, we need to prepare a new charging socket, for this we process all the contacts with an active flux and solder the contacts with a soldering iron. After soldering, the connector must be washed from the active flux; for washing, I use Kalosh liquid, which is sold in hardware stores. After that, the charging socket is ready to be installed on the board. We warm up the installation site and carefully install the new connector with tweezers, heat until the connector pins on the motherboard are covered with tin and the socket falls into place.

That's all dear friends, subscribe to my youtube channel, put likes and visit us again, I have a lot of interesting things for you.

Here are some video examples.

Charging socket replacement for lenovo s6000 tablet: