Do-it-yourself smartphone repair socket replacement

If your phone, tablet, laptop does not take charge then it may be necessary replace the power connector, but first you need to make sure that the problem is in him.

How can you understand that Is the problem in the charging connector?

Firstly, you need to remember what happened before the device stopped charging? Could your hardware be dropped (especially if the charging cable was plugged in)? Have you jerked the power cord abruptly? Is there dust, dirt, or a flooded power plug in the system jack? Even after a fall, the rechargeable battery may come off, and the phone, of course, will not charge. Perhaps you have used some other charger that you are not familiar with (at a party, at work, in a cafe), or used a charger in the car (very often it breaks phones). All of these factors and many more can cause a power connector to malfunction.

Secondly, you need to see what is happening now. How does the gadget behave when the charger plug is connected?

What is the reaction with another charger? Is there a charging indication on the screen of a tablet, phone, laptop? Or is he completely “dead”?

If you know that before your device stopped charging, there was some unpleasant event from the above (or some other), and you carried out test measures (reinserted the battery, tried another AC adapter), then with a high probability we can say that you have a problem with the charging socket. Although there is a possibility that the problem could be more serious.

Important! An essential feature of this type of malfunction is the impossibility of repairing the power connector under warranty, since the warranty service center will fix with a 100% probability mechanical damage (bent or broken contacts, deformation) or improper operating conditions (contamination or a broken marker of moisture ingress). Even if the reason for the failure of the socket lies in a factory defect, then it is practically impossible to prove this, since it looks identical to mechanical damage (peeling connector legs on the board or broken pins inside the socket). Sad but true.

In general, the most common causes of a malfunctioning charging socket are:

1. Mechanical damage: a) the plug is incorrectly inserted and the contacts are damaged or the connector is deformed; 2) the power cable was pulled when it was inserted into the device; c) a foreign object is inserted into the connector (the best child's play); d) a fall or blow (in this case, the connector pins may move away from the motherboard).
2. Pollution: Ingress of dust, dirt, foreign particles often causes inoperative charging.
3. Ingress of moisture, liquids: flooding the connector very often leads to its malfunction and more serious damage to the power circuit.
4. Manufacturing defect: If the power connector tracks on the motherboard are missing, it may eventually malfunction.

It is not uncommon when it is a matter of a faulty charger (adapter). Important! It is extremely dangerous to use and experiment with such a power supply unit - you can disable your equipment (burn the “power controller” microcircuit and other “sensitive” elements in the power circuit).

The surest way would be to seek qualified help from a proven reliable Service Center!

Our engineers will quickly diagnose, troubleshoot and repair your equipment.We can replace the charging socket with any model of any device - phone, tablet, laptop. We are waiting for you in our service centers!

Our phones in Murmansk: 70-69-77, 20-19-19

Replacing the power connector with a digital technician has a number of nuances and its own specifics, depending on the type of equipment. For example, in modern smartphones and tablets, everything is very miniature and a very dense arrangement of parts. The power supply of the laptop has a different specificity - the charging socket is either soldered on the board, or removable on a cord, and sometimes, in order to get to it, you need to disassemble the device to a single screw. Now let's look at how to replace the power connector on specific types of digital equipment.

So, if your phone stops charging, then the problem lies, as a rule, in the power connector. As mentioned earlier, the layout of the components in the phone is very dense and all the details are tiny, which makes cell phone repair non-trivial.

First, you need to completely disassemble the smartphone in order to remove the system (motherboard) board, on which the USB connector is soldered. By the way, it is called a usb connector in everyday life, correctly this charging socket is called micro-USB. This is the most common power connector today, but there are exceptions, for example, for Chinese phones or older models of Nokia, LG, Samsung, Sony Ericsson and others. Now all the leading manufacturers have recognized the need for standardization and are releasing cell phones with a Micro Usb connector. Meanwhile, in terms of repair / replacement of such connectors, there are still difficulties: although the socket is standardized for the user, its attachment to the motherboard can be completely different (bottom, top, different number of contacts, different mounting method).

When the phone is completely disassembled, the service engineer proceeds to inspect the spawn and determine how best to carry out the repair of the socket. And fat, as they say, there may be nuances:

The power connector is physically intact, but its pins are soldered from the motherboard. This often occurs when the phone is subjected to force (the charging cord was pulled hard when it was plugged into the device), but a manufacturing defect is also possible. In this case, there is no point in changing the part to a new one, and repairs are cheaper for the client with the same quality. It looks like this:





The charging socket on the phone is clearly damaged (physical damage visible to the naked eye). In this case, it definitely needs to be changed. It looks like this:

A more unpleasant option for the client is when the socket is clearly damaged, but it is possible to change it only in combination with other parts. Modern cell phones are becoming thinner, more compact, and the electronic components in them are becoming smaller and smaller. For example, the bottom board, to which the power connector is soldered, is so thin in some models of mobile phones that it cannot withstand heating and warps. In this case, there is only one way out - to change the power connector assembly with this board, and this increases the cost of repairs. Also, more and more often there are new phone models in which the power connector is built into the loop, and in this case it is already unambiguously changing along with the entire loop. A typical example is the popular all over the world smartphone Apple IPhone, as well as some models of Samsung, Lenovo, Redmin.Here is an example of how it looks:




1. You may be surprised, but the situation can be even more complicated. Some phone manufacturers (Samsung is especially bad at it) have come up with a new design of the phone, in which to disassemble the device, you first need to unsolder the phone screen! Yes, yes, you heard right. Now you can no longer replace, for example, the battery in your cell phone without the help of a service center. Also, to replace the charging connector, it will be necessary to heat up and carefully remove the display module (screen) of such a phone. In this case, there are certain risks of damaging the screen.For "two kopecks" no service center will do such an operation, therefore, the cost of replacing the power socket increases in this case. Trust a private trader? A sure way to say goodbye to your smartphone forever. It didn't work out, I broke it, well, it happens. What to take from me? Bribes are smooth. But after all warranty and quality repairs are very important really, huh? Running after someone in search of justice is more the lot of sprinters, I guess!

From the experience of our workshop, charging ports on cheap Chinese phones ark, ZTE, Fly, Meizu, Alcatel, Explay, Digma, Keneksi most often break down, although this often happens with well-known cellular brands: Lenovo, Sony, Samsung.

Our rating of the most unreliable phones and tablets in terms of "flimsy" charging socket: URSUS 7M2, FLY FS401, Recxon R5, ark benefit m8, Lenovo A7600-H, Lenovo A369i, Samsung Galaxy S3 i9300, philips w6500, Digma VOX S507 4G, Oysters tablet pc i t102er 3g

So, when we decided that the problem lies precisely in the charging socket, it is extremely important to change it qualitatively! How long the replaced port and the phone itself will last depends on this (yes, the device can be damaged when replaced and shorten its service life).

Private traders or novice services use only a hairdryer and a soldering iron for the replacement process (or only one of these two tools). Doing so could damage the phone board that secures the connector. To prevent this from happening, it is extremely important to use a professional tool. In particular, the fee should be evenly heated using the bottom heating. All temperature-sensitive assemblies and elements of the telephone must be insulated with heat-resistant tape. This is a guarantee of high-quality repair of any digital equipment from cell phones to laptops. Correct repair as follows:

The telephone board is pre-heated evenly with the help of the bottom heating. All heat-sensitive elements are insulated with heat-resistant foil. The phone socket after such a repair will last a very long time. The phone board itself is also intact. You can rely on such a cell phone in the future!

They brought in a Chinese tablet with the words "does not charge."

Plugging the charger into the connector, I immediately realized that the connector was simply torn from the board. The most frequent breakdown. Well, let's get down to dissecting our client. To do this, with a tenacious gaze, we peer around the perimeter of the tablet and look for the screws that hold it together. Without thinking for a long time, we unscrew these screws

Next, using a poke, we will halve our tablet into two parts. We start from the opposite edge and lead in the direction where we have all the connectors and slots for the memory card

I don't see any point in disassembling where the memory chip is located, percentages and other various mikruhi, since basically the repair of the tablet involves replacing the touchscreen, display and connectors.

And here is the micro-USB charging connector. It is then that we need to replace it.

Now we need to get the board. Unscrew all the bolts that hold it. We also remove all the cables that go to the board. To do this, lift the clasp with your finger up.

If the wires interfere, we also solder them. I only soldered the battery. Since our connector is torn out with meat and is broken, we immediately throw it away. We begin to clean the seat for the new connector. To remove the solder in the through holes, we need a low-melting Wood or Rose alloy. To begin with, we abundantly plaster the holes with this alloy, do not forget to also smear it with gel flux. We heat the through hole together with the alloy using a soldering iron and then abruptly with the help of a desoldering pump pull out all the solder from the hole

I took the rubber tip for the desoldering pump from an old CD-shnoy car radio. I don't know what they are doing there, but there are even two of them.

Now we remove all excess solder from the contact pads (patches) using copper braid and a heated soldering iron

After this procedure, on the signal contacts using a soldering iron, solder and gel flux, we need to leave a bump of solder on each contact pad. Although this photo is from a different repair, the example should look something like this:

Now we take a new connector and smear its contacts with LTI-120 flux

A little about the connectors ... There are a lot of these micro USB connectors! Almost every manufacturer of tablets, phones and other bullshit uses their micro USB connectors. But I still found a way out ;-).I went to Aliexpress and bought myself a whole set at once. Here link ... But now I have all kinds of connectors for Chinese phones and tablets 😉

As soon as the connector is anointed, we tin-coat its contacts with solder. The main thing here is not to overdo it, otherwise the connector will not fit into the through holes on the board.

The rest is simple. We insert the connector, seal the through contacts on the other side, and then liberally grease the signal contacts of the connector with gel flux and press down each contact with the tip of the sting. (Sorry, it is inconvenient to take a photo, since I only have two hands, and there was no one nearby)

Next, we sprinkle Flux-off (for more details about it in the article Chemistry for the electronics engineer)

and then we clean the connector from poop and carbon deposits

We do everything as it was and check the tablet:

Charging is in progress. We assemble the tablet completely and give it to the user.

Hello everyone. Today I will tell you in detail and show you how to change micro-USB connectors and other little things "on the knees", i.e. at home, without special skills and special professional expensive priblud and substances. Just armed with inspiration, always helping out with optimism, ingenuity, perseverance, patience and sufficient time.

Yesterday they brought me a smartphone for repair Lumia Denim 630 with a faulty power socket, with the words: "Charging shows - but does not want to charge!" The smartphone looked monolithic, without screws and latches, I thought: “Well, here we go! Now I have to warm it up with a hair dryer! ”, Although after tinkering it turned out that it can be easily opened, since the insides lie in the lid, a“ trough ”which can be easily separated (on the internal latches). Those. the developers of Nokia have thought out everything, according to the military. For this they get a delicious like from me!

The socket externally turned out to be in good condition, no cracks in the soldering were found, which means how often the malfunction was hidden in the erased contacts inside the connector. I decided to boldly change to a new one. After the repair, I disassembled the old socket and, indeed, the contacts were in mud, in “oil felt” and looked worn out. I forgot to take a picture, but in general what kind of connectors are killed, look at the photo attached to the article.

A sure sign that the nest needs to be changed

I bought nests on Ali Express in a handful of about 100 pieces, 10 types, which is convenient.

I picked up a suitable one, but not identical, which had to be modified and filed.

The nest has to be adjusted

As it turned out later, given the almost external similarity of the gates, the gilded contacts did not fit on it in height, that is, they floated above the board! Take note!

Fitted the socket, but did not notice the discrepancy to the original

I had to re-select the nest, file it again, adjust it, since there was no needed one.

The nest has to be adjusted

When fitting, a slight distortion of the nest was revealed, i.e. opening the fastening locks of the nest, which had to be put in place, soldered and slightly adjusted to the lid of the smart with a sharp knife.

And all because the nests ordered in bulk are cheap, which means they are simpler, made of not very durable metal, in comparison with their native nests. Native nests are usually very expensive, made soundly, reliably, but you can't find enough of them for any occasion. Ordering relatives in China and boring to wait is problematic. I decided to take apart the old nest, weighing all the pros and cons, and comparing the price tags in Ali.

For desoldering, I use a special hot air gun, although you can completely do with a building hair dryer, while being vigilant and attentive so as not to "fry" truncated in a circle.

Be sure to cover all plastic parts, capacitors with pastry foil or chocolate, otherwise they may melt! Then kirdyk to your smart can come to the offensive suddenly and without origin! 🙂 Ie first warm up the entire board in a circular motion, so that it is not led by the "propeller" from the temperature difference, and then in a circular motion you heat the nest itself (about 300 degrees, check with the temperature sensor of a multimeter or by using your intuition and fingers).Before warming up, it is advisable to simply solder the socket with ordinary solder with flux or rosin (mix your tin with the factory tin, thereby making it easier to solder), since the factory solder on the board is often lead-free, which causes problems with soldering the socket.

By the way, for the convenience of work, I completely manage with an ordinary confectionery silicone mat, since there are professional roads.

It keeps high temperatures and does not slip on it, i.e. a practical and appropriate thing. I also use a special board holder with crocodiles, with which I can conveniently fix the board.

The rug and holder were purchased on Ali. In general, you can do without them, including thinking. 🙂

After soldering, I use the braid soaked in flux or rosin, leaning it against with a soldering iron and guiding them along the tracks and holes with tin, also pre-lubricated with flux.

braid for solder removal

As a result, the braid absorbs all interfering solder, leaving everything around clean (cool idea!). The only thing to keep in mind is, do not rip off the tracks and contact dimes with a braid! This also has a place to be! Be careful and take your time!

I forgot to say that soldering the socket with a soldering iron is problematic and risky. Of course, with good experience, you can evaporate and subtly - with the help of one large drop of solder, covering the entire socket with it and making sure not to "shake" and not stick adjacent parts to your mega-drop, etc. But nevertheless it is skillfully done by people with a full hand and experience. As an option, in the workshops earlier (when there were no hair dryers, in the USSR), they made (bought) special nozzles-stings for the necessary connectors and sockets, which made it possible to supply heat to all the required areas at a time and easily evaporate. It was an excursion, but for you it is still easier with a hot air gun.

Ideally, a special microscope is successfully used in workshops for soldering small parts. I use magnifying glasses, because I can't afford a good microscope yet, and taking a cheap one is just a waste of money.

I also use a set of clock screwdrivers for disassembly and assembly, and I also use them with pleasure as convenient small cleaners (from rosin on the board), picks, pushers, pusher legs of elements, etc. I got it at the nearest hardware store, for a symbolic amount.

A set of cheap watch screwdrivers

The varieties of tweezers purchased by me in Ali and in "Fix-price" help a lot. In an important case, the female cosmetic tweezers may come in handy.

The tip of your family's forty-watt soldering iron will need to be sharpened at a sharp angle and with a slightly rounded end in order to creep up to the socket legs neatly and effectively and painlessly for neighboring radioelements.

Or just wind the copper wire around the tip and use it as a thin tip, in common people: "Quickly mini-soldering iron"!

It is advisable to buy a cheap power regulator for lamps, with which you will regulate the temperature of the sting so that the rosin on the sting does not quickly turn into carbon deposits, so as not to overheat the conductive tracks and so that they do not fly off.

Lamp power regulator

You can, of course, without a power regulator, but then you have to solder with short-term touches so as not to overheat the tracks and boringly often cleaning the sting from black rosin oxides. And again - and this is the art of the possible, on the verge of risk. Decide for yourself.

After that, be sure to check how you soldered, whether everything looks beautiful, whether something sticks out, whether there is a so-called. "snot" between the contact pads, as this can cause a short circuit and is fraught with a more serious breakdown of the device. Use a little braid, if the sting cannot remove the nozzle, it will take away the excess solder, and the tin will squeeze out under the leg of the nest. If, nevertheless, a little remains, then lubricate the place with rosin and lightly tear off the remains of tin between the contacts with a sting. But do not overdo it, the solder should be in the form of a sufficient droplet covering the contact for a firm contact.Do not spare the flux (rosin) so that the soldering is electrically conductive (and not the so-called "cold" or "dry" soldering, not conductive).

Now, partially, without screws, we assemble the smartphone, connect the cables, turn on, check for operability, if everything is fine, charging is in progress, the battery shows that it is accumulating charge, then we finally assemble it by screwing and closing the rear decorative cover.

For clarity of the process of replacing the nest, I cut gifs for you from the video of a professional's work. Watch and listen.

In this article, I will tell you how to properly change the charging socket on your phone or micro USB tablet. This method has been developed over the years, and in my opinion is the fastest and most reliable.

• Active soldering flux or a weak soldering acid, you can also use aspirin tablets, just be careful of the caustic smoke.
• I buy flux RMA-223 in syringes here: https://ali.pub/lqw23
• Any soldering station with a hair dryer and a soldering iron.
• Suitable micro usb connector.
• Tin in a coil, preferably 0.3mm, take here: https://ali.pub/mieuo
• You can buy tweezers where I get them.
• Well, everything seems to be

And so we disassemble the phone or tablet, take the board with the charging socket and fix it, for fixing I use the board holder I bought here: https://ali.pub/4lstm

We fix it so that the contacts of the back of the connector are on top, then we apply flux for soldering rma-223 to all contacts of the connector, turn on the hairdryer at the soldering station with a set temperature of 330-350 degrees Celsius. And yes, I almost forgot if there are plastic parts next to the charging socket, for example, a camera, or a microphone, they need to be protected from high temperatures, for this I use heat-resistant foil, I took it here: https://ali.pub/905dy

We leave only the charging connector not covered with foil and begin to warm it up with a hairdryer, so that the entire area of ​​contact with the board warms up, I make quick circular movements and after about a minute, one and a half, the socket is easily removed from the board with tweezers.

Next, we need to prepare a new charging socket, for this we process all the contacts with an active flux and solder the contacts with a soldering iron. After soldering, the connector needs to be washed from the active flux; for washing, I use the "Kalosha" liquid, which is sold in hardware stores. After that, the charging socket is ready to be installed on the board. We warm up the installation site and use tweezers to carefully install the new connector, heat it until the connector contacts on the motherboard are covered with tin and the socket falls into place.

That's all dear friends, subscribe to my youtube channel, put your likes and visit us again, I have a lot of interesting things for you.

Here are some video examples.

Replacing the charging socket on lenovo s6000 tablet: