The average temperature in the center of the sole of the electric iron when the temperature indicator is set against the center of the symbol for ironing conditions in a steady thermal mode is given in table 1
The sole of the electric iron should be heated evenly. The difference between the average temperature in the center of the sole and at the edges should not be more than 10 ° C.
Most electric irons come with an aluminum sole. Older models were produced with cast iron or steel soles. steel soles have a higher heat capacity than aluminum ones, are less susceptible to mechanical damage, and have better sliding on fabric.
Most electric irons use thermostats, tubular electric heaters (TENs) and signal lamps.The presence of a steam humidifier in irons expands the possibilities of its use in everyday life, allowing you to iron fabrics without pre-moistening them. Drip humidifiers are used in irons. The water for steam generation is in the iron container.
Electric irons with a thermostat and a steam humidifier are heated using a tubular heating element cast into the aluminum sole of the iron. The iron is equipped with a thermostat, which is connected to the disc. The dial of the thermostat disc has five names of fabrics or symbols, each of which corresponds to a certain heating temperature of the sole.
On the handle of the electric iron there are two nameplates with indicators that determine the position of the steam regulator during ironing. When the steam regulator is set to the “Steam” position, the water poured into the tank through the water filling hole drops into the evaporation chamber, evaporates, leaves the sole holes, saturating the material to be smoothed with steam.
When the heating element is switched on, the warning light comes on. The electrical diagram of the electric iron is shown in Fig. 1
The manufacturer recommends replacing and repairing the components of the electric iron in the following order:
Unscrew screw 15 (Fig. 2) and remove cover 14, unscrew screws 19, remove washer 18 and cord loops. Remove disc 31 with spring 29 and dial 28 and disassemble it into separate parts. Unscrew two screws 32, remove the housing 10 with the handle 25, the head 26 of the steam regulator and the spring washer 27. Remove the tank 9 with the steam regulator 34. Unscrew the screw 7 with the washer 37 and screw 8. Remove the 6 contacts. Replace the soleplate of 1 iron.
Assemble the electric iron in reverse order. Before installing the disk 31, check the position of the plate 36. It must be turned clockwise until it stops. Install the thermostat disc by putting it on plate 36 with a slotted hole (the wide groove should be against the pointer on the handle 25) and fix the disc with spring 29, snapping it all the way into it. Install dial 28 by inserting the tabs into the range of the disc bore. The inscription "Linen" (or the symbol ···) on the dial must be opposite the pointer on the handle.
Before connecting the electric iron to the network, check the serviceability of the electrical circuit in accordance with the diagram and check the dielectric strength of the insulation with a megohmmeter. The test voltage of the megohmmeter must be at least 1000 V.
Unscrew the screw 15 and remove the cover 14. Unscrew the screws 19, remove the washer 18 and the loops of the cord 16 with the plug. Remove disc 31 with spring 29 and dial 28 and disassemble it into separate parts. After that, unscrew the two screws 32, remove the housing 10 with the handle 25, the head 26 of the steam regulator and the spring washer 27. Unscrew the steam regulator from the tank and screw in a new one (the steam regulator in the thread must rotate freely, without jamming). Then assemble the electric iron. Replace reservoir and gasket if necessary 35.
Unscrew screw 15 and remove cover 14. Unscrew screws 19, remove washer 18 and cord loops. Remove disc 31 with spring 29 and dial 28 and disassemble into separate parts. Unscrew two screws 32, remove body 10 with handle 25, steam regulator head 26 and spring washer 27. Replace steam regulator head 26 and, if necessary, spring washer 27. Install body 10 with handle 25 on the base 4 with reservoir 9 and gasket 35. Simultaneously in the slot set the washer 27 and the head 26 of the steam regulator to the "Dry" position. In this case, the flag of the steam regulator should not reach 10.15 mm until it stops in the handle with the tank valve closed.
In fig. 3 shows the design of the electric iron contact block. The bimetallic plate 11 is located parallel to the sole of the iron.When the bimetallic plate is bent (under the influence of temperature), the breaker 14 acts on the clamping tab 12 and opens the contacts 1. When the sole of the iron cools, the bimetallic plate takes its original position, the breaker is lowered and the contacts are closed again. The release tab 13 maintains the contacts in a closed state, its position is set by the adjusting screw 6. A thermostat disk is installed on the plate 4. Bracket 3 limits the angle of rotation of the disc.
In the event of a malfunction of the thermostat in imported irons - such as burned contacts, it is often difficult to find the same one, and others are not always suitable. It's a pity to throw out an iron with a good heating element, but you can make a simple power regulator on electronic elements by placing it outside the iron. How to do it see thyristor power regulator
They glide easily over all types of fabric, are scratch-resistant, and easy to clean from stains. A clear hole pattern ensures an even distribution of steam. The shape of the heating element ensures an even temperature distribution over the sole. Imported electric irons can have the following features:
Surprise, but the problem of how to disassemble the iron is the most difficult when repairing. The manufacturer is trying to impose an official service. In the USSR, dismantling an iron was not an easy task. What to say about the current diversity. Soviet models were rather crude from an aesthetic point of view, the master is free not to worry about their appearance, modern models are beautiful, they reveal such a fragile case. Plastic parts, as if on purpose, are made from a grade of polymer that exhibits minimal flexibility and breaks easily.
We believe that steps are being taken, we will repeat ourselves to give work to the service centers. Ordinary inhabitants - we are used to counting every penny, we want to do it ourselves. So, the topic of today is how to disassemble the iron.
Let's start with the promised Soviet iron. Let's make a reservation right away, there is little to do with steam. Let's list the parts that make up the iron with the quality mark in the form of a star inscribed in the pentagon:
Inside there is a power block, heating element soles, a thermostat and a thermal fuse. In the UL-84 model, which we see in the photo, in the back of the sole there is a cover for quick access to the heating element. See the lid with an inverted iron. Admire the power contacts of the heating element. In the background you can see a gentleman's set for opening household appliances. Let us explain. In the green case, there are a lot of tips along with the typical TORX, you can see the incredible shape of the head. The set was bought in Moscow at a price of about 800 - 1000 rubles. Adapter included. Bits are much cheaper today, driven by competition from dealers.
The heads do not fit the reversible screwdriver, which we will see here. Through the adapter, the jacket is inserted into the jacket on the inner magnet. In the gray case, you can see 6 sockets for standard screwdriver heads. The cost of pleasure with a pen is hundreds of rubles, no more than 400.Why do we grind the instrument for a long time? Every disassembly video begins with complaints about non-standard screw heads. Meanwhile, every man can just get a gentleman's kit that allows you to spin the spaceship. Moreover, the readers probably bought a drive with replaceable heads. Buy a set of custom attachments!
Having removed the back cover (photo number 2), we see: there are clearly no power bolts. It is seen:
It is clear that the entrance must be sought from the side of the temperature controller. Gently pry the handle from the sides with two screwdrivers, it will fly out with a terrible crash. The regulator was held in place by two steel spring brackets that caught on a groove. Nothing criminal. Look at the photo, it looks scary, it has been working for almost half a century. Will Philips, Vitek, Tefal, Braun, Bosch give such a guarantee? Draw your own conclusions. You see two power bolts, unscrew immediately!
To remove the sole, let's take apart the terminal block shown in the second photo. The last image shows an adjustable bimetallic plate. To protect against improper donning of the regulator during assembly, an asymmetry in the shape of the hole is noted. Disassembly is complete. The power of the device is 1 kW, the winding resistance should be 50 ohms. It will be performed at any position of the thermostat, as long as the contacts are closed.
Of course, if necessary, we will adjust the bimetallic plate. Pliers plus skillful hands are used. Bending the metal, we change the temperature of the relay. Disconnect the heating element by disassembling the contacts in photo number 2. Check the short-circuit resistance of the relay. Great - clean the contacts, grind.
We avoid the assertion that it is easy to disassemble the Tefal iron, here are some typical techniques.
The assemblies are structurally uniform. It is often not possible to disassemble in parts without breakage. The handle is glued to the tank, the body is a single piece of plastic, the welding method of the boiler and the sole is generally difficult to identify.
There is a compartment for electronic components under the body. Thermostat, represented by a bimetallic plate. A thermal fuse is visible nearby, usually molded through a heat-resistant fabric on the tank wall, or close to the heating element. Accordingly, the setting of the element can be 140 degrees or higher, for example. It is determined by the overheating protection implementation scheme, the iron model. You can find out the thermal fuse by the mounting bracket, by the eloquent inscriptions on the case, giving the permissible current (optional), the response temperature.
Change the thermal fuse in the same way. To disassemble the Braun Freestyle Corded Iron, you will need to slide the electronic cord out to the back. According to the advice above, first remove the rear screws, then the nose screws. Finally, remove the spray gun located in the area of the steam boost buttons. The cord, the electronic part are held by plastic teeth. The handle, tank, sole are practically one piece. However, in the bow, we will notice a pair of power screws. Act according to the circumstances.
The design, we believe, has become the basis for cordless irons. The power contacts are detachable.You can remove-put the sole with the tank, the handle in place whenever you want. No disassembly. Although any cordless irons work in cycles: n seconds tyrannizing the stand, m seconds ironing laundry, there are no timers inside (signal LEDs are on). Works driven by a bimetallic plate. A green light is included in the sole chain, and a second high position contact is created for the red one. Follow the directions of the traffic light. Green means you can. Red? It's time to put the iron on and gain strength.
VIDEO
Models with a built-in battery have been created, of course, they weigh more. Not everyone can call quality a virtue. But the battery life lasts longer. Regarding the usual expensive cordless irons, the cycle is something like 24 - 5. Ironing time is five times longer rest. Disassembling a cordless iron is no more difficult than a wired one.
Let's add, cordless irons are not uncommon: Tefal, Philips. Panasonic has recently entered the market. The real news is Tefal is unpopular in America. Panasonic boasts a handy carry case. Forgot to inspect the Japanese sold overseas, the most ergonomic iron among wireless models, sold in Russia. Released in Indian, it is difficult to buy even on e-bay.
By the way, wait a little too badly about the Buddha's homeland. A good part of the world's population lives, a lot of money is software.
We hope we have taught our readers how to disassemble the iron. They have given typical techniques, they are applied everywhere. It is impossible to create a universal instruction, how to iterate over numerous models. Individual copies of one manufacturer can be strikingly different from others presented on the market. We say goodbye, wait for comments, see photos, rate, compare, learn to disassemble irons with your own hands.
Electric irons are manufactured in the following types:
with thermostat
with thermostat and steam humidifier
with thermostat and steam humidifier and spray nozzle
The average temperature in the center of the sole of the electric iron when the temperature indicator is set against the center of the symbol for ironing conditions in a steady thermal mode is given in table 1
Table 1. Average temperature in the center of the iron soleplate, ° С
The sole of the electric iron should be heated evenly. The difference between the average temperature in the center of the sole and at the edges should not be more than 10 ° C.
Most electric irons come with an aluminum sole. Older models were produced with cast iron or steel soles. steel soles have a higher heat capacity than aluminum ones, are less susceptible to mechanical damage, and have better sliding on fabric.
Most electric irons use thermostats, tubular electric heaters (TENs) and warning lamps. The presence of a steam humidifier in irons expands the possibilities of its use in everyday life, allowing you to iron fabrics without pre-moistening them. Drip humidifiers are used in irons. The water for steam generation is in the iron container.
Electric irons with a thermostat and a steam humidifier are heated using a tubular heating element cast into the aluminum sole of the iron. The iron is equipped with a thermostat, which is connected to the disc. The dial of the thermostat disc has five names of fabrics or symbols, each of which corresponds to a certain heating temperature of the sole.
On the handle of the electric iron there are two nameplates with indicators that determine the position of the steam regulator during ironing. When the steam regulator is set to the “Steam” position, the water poured into the tank through the water filling hole drops into the evaporation chamber, evaporates, leaves the sole holes, saturating the material to be smoothed with steam.
When the heating element is switched on, the warning light comes on. The electrical diagram of the electric iron is shown in Fig. 1
Fig. 1 Electrical diagram of an electric iron with a thermostat and a steam humidifier:
The manufacturer recommends replacing and repairing the components of the electric iron in the following order:
Rice. 2 The design of an electric iron with a thermostat and a steam humidifier:
Unscrew screw 15 (Fig. 2) and remove cover 14, unscrew screws 19, remove washer 18 and cord loops. Remove disc 31 with spring 29 and dial 28 and disassemble it into separate parts. Unscrew two screws 32, remove the housing 10 with the handle 25, the head 26 of the steam regulator and the spring washer 27. Remove the tank 9 with the steam regulator 34. Unscrew the screw 7 with the washer 37 and screw 8. Remove the 6 contacts. Replace the soleplate of 1 iron.
Assemble the electric iron in reverse order. Before installing the disk 31, check the position of the plate 36. It must be turned clockwise until it stops. Install the thermostat disc by putting it on plate 36 with a slotted hole (the wide groove should be against the pointer on the handle 25) and fix the disc with spring 29, snapping it all the way into it. Install dial 28 by inserting the tabs into the range of the disc bore. The inscription "Linen" (or the symbol ···) on the dial must be opposite the pointer on the handle.
Before connecting the electric iron to the network, check the serviceability of the electrical circuit in accordance with the diagram and check the dielectric strength of the insulation with a megohmmeter. The test voltage of the megohmmeter must be at least 1000 V.
Unscrew the screw 15 and remove the cover 14. Unscrew the screws 19, remove the washer 18 and the loops of the cord 16 with the plug. Remove disc 31 with spring 29 and dial 28 and disassemble it into separate parts. After that, unscrew the two screws 32, remove the housing 10 with the handle 25, the head 26 of the steam regulator and the spring washer 27. Unscrew the steam regulator from the tank and screw in a new one (the steam regulator in the thread must rotate freely, without jamming). Then assemble the electric iron. Replace reservoir and gasket if necessary 35.
Unscrew screw 15 and remove cover 14. Unscrew screws 19, remove washer 18 and cord loops. Remove disc 31 with spring 29 and dial 28 and disassemble into separate parts. Unscrew two screws 32, remove body 10 with handle 25, steam regulator head 26 and spring washer 27. Replace steam regulator head 26 and, if necessary, spring washer 27. Install body 10 with handle 25 on the base 4 with reservoir 9 and gasket 35. Simultaneously in the slot set the washer 27 and the head 26 of the steam regulator to the "Dry" position. In this case, the flag of the steam regulator should not reach 10 ... 15 mm until it stops in the handle when the tank valve is closed.
Rice. 3 The design of the contact block of the electric iron thermostat:
In fig. 3 shows the design of the electric iron contact block. The bimetallic plate 11 is located parallel to the sole of the iron. When the bimetallic plate is bent (under the influence of temperature), the breaker 14 acts on the clamping tab 12 and opens the contacts 1. When the sole of the iron cools, the bimetallic plate takes its original position, the breaker is lowered and the contacts are closed again. The release tab 13 maintains the contacts in a closed state, its position is set by the adjusting screw 6. A thermostat disk is installed on the plate 4. Bracket 3 limits the angle of rotation of the disc.
In the event of a malfunction of the thermostat in imported irons - such as burned contacts, it is often difficult to find the same one, and others are not always suitable. It's a pity to throw out an iron with a good heating element, but you can make a simple power regulator on electronic elements by placing it outside the iron. How to do it see thyristor power regulator
In imported electric irons the sole is covered with various non-stick coatings.
They glide easily over all types of fabric, are scratch-resistant, and easy to clean from stains. A clear hole pattern ensures an even distribution of steam. The shape of the heating element ensures an even temperature distribution over the sole. Imported electric irons can have the following features:
anti-drip system: maximum steam output at low temperatures, eliminating the possibility of leakage from the soleplate.
descaling cassette: permanent built-in protection against limescale, which significantly increases the operating time of the iron.
Self-cleaning function: for cleaning the steam chamber from scale and dirt in order to increase the service life.
vertical steam: for hanging clothes and curtains.
automatic shutdown: an electronic device gives a signal and turns off the iron if it remains stationary in a horizontal position for more than 30 seconds or in a vertical position for more than 8 minutes.
Number of articles published by the author: 197.
Let's put aside all nano technologies for a long time, we live in Russia, and consider the classic design of the most common circuit used in many modern models.
So, an ordinary Soviet ironing device consists of a heating element (Ten), an on-indicator and a thermal relay. The heating element is a conventional heating coil placed in a heat-resistant case made of cermet, which heats up very quickly to very high temperatures when the mains voltage is applied, and then heats up the metal case
The indicator warns the user that the device is connected to the outlet. The thermostat interrupts the power supply when the coil temperature reaches its maximum values. In all iron circuits, there is also a thermal fuse that will turn off the heating element if, for some reason, the thermal relay does not work, and the temperature continues to rise. In the case when the temperature drops to minimum values, then the thermostat in the circuit again works and through its contact power will be supplied to the coil of the heating element
As an indicator, gas-discharge or neon lamps are usually used, and now LEDs. A modern iron works in the same way as the one discussed above, but with some modern additions, such as a microcontroller-controlled thermostat. It is used to smoothly adjust the voltage and the degree of incandescence of the iron spiral, which allows great energy savings.
Thermal fuses in iron circuits are of two types: disposable and reusable. Reusable thermal fuses are made of bimetallic plates. When the temperature of the iron spiral exceeds the norm, the bimetallic contact breaks and the power supply circuit of the heating element is opened. After the coil has cooled down, the bimetallic contact closes again. Thus, the reusable thermal fuse prevents the iron from overheating if the thermostat breaks down. A disposable fuse will protect your iron only once, after which repairs will be required to replace the thermostat and a disposable fuse.
The principle of operation of the iron thermostat
VIDEO
The principle of operation of the regulator of almost any iron on bimetallic plates is perfectly shown and detailed in detail, which is very important for repair with your own hands.
Nothing is eternal in this dimension in which I was forced to get stuck for a long time. Including irons.
The biggest problem when repairing modern models is disassembling them. Since all the screws are cleverly hidden, there are several general principles:
Its characteristic feature is the absence of a glow in the indicator. For repair, it will be enough to remove the back cover, cut off 3-5 centimeters and reconnect the power cord, if it is not possible to visually determine the mechanical bend of the wire, it is advisable to check it with a multimeter. If it is not there, you can also connect a socket with a 220 volt light bulb, but just do not forget about electrical safety. If the power cord is ok, go to the next step of repairing the irons.
Repair of irons. Temperature controller problems
We take out the handle of the temperature regulator, for this we put a flat screwdriver or a knife under the handle of the regulator and carefully pull it up. If it does not come out, we are looking for screws that secure the case to the base.
As soon as you unscrew all the screws, you will be able to disassemble the structure completely
After gaining access to the thermostat, it is necessary to check its mechanical operation, for this we manually move the regulator from one extreme position to another. In the first extreme position, the contact group should switch with a characteristic click.
Using a multimeter in the dialing mode, we check the electrical operation of the contacts. Sometimes, to restore the thermostat to work, it is enough to clean the contacts.
It is also easy to check it with a tester in the dial mode. If it does not ring, then you can immediately throw it out and put a new one, in no case bypass the fuse, remember that any device without a fuse can cause a fire .
Unfortunately, a burned-out heating element cannot be repaired and only replacement is required, and if the heating element is built into the sole, then it will be easier and cheaper to change the ironing device itself, removing serviceable parts from it.
Even though I’m ashamed to ask, I’ll ask all the same: is the “Soviet iron” a brand, the name of the manufacturer or what? A lot of things fall under the name "Soviet iron", from coal irons and those irons that were heated on the stove to practically modern models with a steam generator and a temperature controller. And these irons need to be repaired in completely different ways.
If your iron breaks down like this:
If you have to repair such an iron:
If you would like to repair an iron like this:
Lyrical digression - while I was writing the answer, I realized that I was ancient, like a mammoth, and the evolution of the iron took place before my eyes, because I used all these irons: a small iron that was heated on the stove, I ironed collars when I went to elementary school , then there was a spiral iron, then with a thermostat without a humidifier, then with a steam generator, and now a fancy Philips, which only does not show a movie, but can do everything else :).
DIY iron repair .
A patent for the invention of an electric iron, as an element of household appliances for smoothing out folds and wrinkles on clothes, was registered on June 6, 1882 in the name of Waley Henry W.
And the first lightweight electrically heated iron was invented in 1903 by Earl Richardson.
Since the advent of electricity and the advancement of technology, electric irons have appeared.
From the point of view of electrical engineering, the principle of their operation is based on the release of thermal energy when an electric current passes through a resistive heating element.
The device of a domestically produced iron is shown in Fig. 1.
Rice. one . The device of the UT brand electric iron: 1 - sole; 2 - tubular electric heater (TEN); 3 - thermostat; 4 - heat-insulating gasket; 5 - cord; 6 - housing cover; 7 - handle; 8 - indicator light; 9 - housing casing. When choosing an iron in a store, you should pay attention to its labeling.
Alphabetic symbols are deciphered as follows: UT - iron with a thermostat; USP - iron with thermostat and steam humidifier; UTPR - an iron with a thermostat, a steam humidifier and a sprinkler; UTU - iron with thermostat, weighted.
Numerical symbols are deciphered as follows: the first number following the alphabetic pointers denotes the power consumed by the iron (in W); the second number hides its mass (in kg).
For example, the marking UTP1000-1.8 means “an iron with a thermostat and a steam humidifier with a capacity of 1000 W (1 kW) and weighing 1.8 kg”.
Great attention is paid to the weight of the iron, since the maximum heating time of the sole depends on it.
There is a pattern: for light irons, for example UT1000-1.2, the maximum heating time for the sole is 2.5 minutes; for heavier ones, such as, for example, UTU1000-2.5 - up to 7.5 minutes. The main elements of the iron are an aluminum or cast-iron sole with a pressed-in heating element (heating element), a body and an automatic thermostat.
The axis of the thermostat control knob is removed from the iron body.
To monitor the condition of the heating element, an indicator (signal) lamp is mounted in the iron body.
When the iron heats up to the set temperature, the heating element automatically turns off and the indicator lamp goes out. There are options with two lights - green and red, in this case the green light signals that the iron is plugged into the outlet and 220 V is applied to it, and the red one indicates the process of turning the heating element on and off.
An indicator lamp with a voltage of 3.5V (current 0.26A) is powered by a voltage drop across a section of a nichrome spiral connected in series with a heating element. The spiral is insulated with tubes. The terminals of the heating element, spiral, indicator lamp cartridge and power cord are connected to a three-pin block inside the back of the iron handle.
The electrical circuit of the irons, in principle, has not undergone any changes. The only thing that has been added is a thermal fuse that turns off the heating element if the main regulator does not work and the sole temperature exceeds the temperature of the thermal fuse.
The electric diagram of the iron is shown in Fig. 2
If the iron breaks down, do not rush to throw it away or replace it with another one, because in 85% of cases it can be returned to working condition and produced DIY iron repair .
In 15% of cases, when the heating element burns out, repair the iron becomes unprofitable. In this case, it is best to purchase a new iron from the store.
In the workshop of a home craftsman, there will always be the necessary tools for repairing an iron with your own hands:
Screwdriver Set
tester or battery with light bulb.
The biggest difficulty in repairing modern irons is disassembling them. Designers dictate their own rules and therefore all the screws holding the structure together are hidden, and it is rather difficult to find them. It is impossible to describe all the designs, there are a great many of them, but there are several general principles:
The plastic body of the iron is always fastened to the soleplate with screws The screws are usually hidden under decorative plugs, light filters for light bulbs, and a water tank for the steaming system. Be careful not to break the plastic clips of the parts You should always try to disassemble the iron so that after assembly it is not a shame to look at your work. 1.Before you start repairing the iron, you first need to assess the external manifestations of the malfunction. If, when you turn on the iron in the electrical network, not one of the lamps does not light up in all positions of the thermostat, the first suspicion falls on the serviceability of the cord.
The breakage of the cores of the power cord, as a rule, occurs at the place where it is inserted into the iron handle. Since the inlet is movable, the cord is constantly bending during the ironing process.
Remove the back cover of the iron by unscrewing the fastening screws. Using an electric tester, we check the integrity of the power cord and plug. To do this, one probe of the tester is alternately connected to the pins of the power plug, and the other probe, also alternately, is connected to the wires of the electrical cord in the iron body.
The tester must be set to the minimum ohmmeter value (Ohm). If the power plug and power cord are intact, the tester's buzzer will make a sound, “beep.” If the buzzer does not “beep,” then the power cord and power plug are faulty.
Such a breakdown does not at all require a complete replacement of the cord, the repair consists in restoring its integrity: the cord is cut off at the break point, the screw clamp is freed from the pieces of cores, the end of the cord of the required length is re-cleaned and again sealed into the terminal block. The power plug is disassembled, the cord is cut off at the break point, the insulation is stripped off and the cord is connected to the plug contacts, after which it is assembled. If the euro plug is not collapsible, then to replace it, you must purchase a collapsible electric euro plug in the store.
2. If the cord and the Euro plug are in good working order, then the temperature regulator (thermostat) should be checked. The basis of the thermostat is a bimetallic plate that controls a high-speed switch. The thermostat works as follows: the bimetallic plate is heated from the sole of the iron; due to the difference in the coefficient of thermal expansion of the two metals, it bends and squeezes the contact plate; as a result, the circuit opens, the heating element turns off and begins to cool down.
But, as soon as the bimetallic plate cools down to a certain temperature, its bend straightens, releases the contact plate, and the heating element turns on again. Remove the handle of the temperature regulator (earlier we removed the back cover of the electric iron. We unscrew all the wires from the block and the screws that secure the plastic body of the iron to the base. Some screws can be hidden. To do this, push a flat metal plate (you can use a knife) under the handle of the regulator and try to lift it up with little effort.
If you cannot remove it, then we are looking for the screws that secure the iron body to its base. There are no difficulties with the back of the case, but in front the screw is usually hidden either by a special plug or by a lid (covering the opening for pouring water into the steamer). We remove the case.
First you need to check if the temperature regulator is working. To do this, you need to turn the regulator knob. The contact plates should open and close. It is necessary to clean the contacts on the plates with fine-grained emery paper and check the continuity of the circuit in the temperature controller with an electric tester.
H. The next iron malfunction should be looked for when checking the thermal fuse.
To do this, connect the dialing wires to it on both sides. ... If the thermal fuse is intact, the tester's buzzer will emit a sound, “beep”. If the buzzer does not “beep”, then the thermal fuse is faulty. Iron malfunction occurs in 50-60% of cases of thermal fuse burnout.
Thermal fuses are of two types: disposable and reusable. Reusable thermal fuses are made on the bimetal principle (like the main iron regulator). When the set temperature is exceeded, the contact breaks and the power supply circuit of the heating element is interrupted.
After the iron has cooled down, the bimetallic contact again closes the power supply circuit of the heating element. Thus, the reusable thermal fuse prevents the iron from overheating (if the main thermostat did not work) and burn out completely.
A disposable thermal fuse can perform its function only once. When the set temperature is exceeded, it breaks the power supply circuit of the heating element, thus protecting the iron from overheating and burnout of the heating element.
Unfortunately, after the one-time thermal fuse is triggered, further operation of the iron without repair is impossible.
The simplest way out of this situation is to throw out this thermal fuse, and short-circuit the electrical circuit in this place.
If the main temperature regulator is in good working order, the absence of a thermal fuse at work and the safety of the iron will not be affected at all.
In order to short-circuit the electrical circuit in the place where there is no thermal fuse, it is necessary to solder another thermal fuse or a simple wire in this place.4. If the thermal fuse, temperature regulator and power cord are working properly, we are left with the only and most unpleasant option - the heating element burns out.
In most cases, the heating element is rolled into the soleplate of the iron and its replacement is a technically rather complicated procedure and, accordingly, economically inexpedient.
The iron needs systematic care. You can read about it on this page.
Video (click to play).
Our specialists will help you to repair the iron.
