Often, it is more profitable to repair an old wooden house on your own than to demolish it and build a new one. If you have such a house and would like to bring it into its proper form, we will tell you how to do it. The main thing is to pay attention to the general condition of the building, that is, to assess the prospects of work. If you are sure that the house can still serve, feel free to start making repairs with your own hands.
First of all, you should evaluate the degree of wear and tear of existing components of the house.Take a close look at the foundation, walls, roofing and communications. Do-it-yourself repair of an old wooden house begins with the preparation of the material, and its volume directly depends on the state of the building.
Completely free the house from all unnecessary things, debris and components that are actually not related to the structure. Look closely at the wooden parts for signs of decay - these should be removed immediately. Most often, in old wooden houses, the floor comes into complete disrepair - it must be dismantled.
Pay attention to the foundation. As a rule, solid concrete fill lasts a very long time, but in some places it can break off. This requires a small cosmetic repair - using the prepared solution, simply cover up the visible imperfections, leveling the entire foundation. If the foundation of the house has fallen into disrepair (there are many large cracks around the perimeter, corrosion of the reinforcement, a significant skew of the horizontal level of the foundation), repairs will not be enough. A complete renovation is required here.
Communications should be taken care of in advance, as you may want to sheathe the walls with plasterboard or other covering. So, completely dismantle the existing electrical wiring and plumbing pipes. When laying a new electrical network, be sure to wrap the wires in special tubes with a cross section of 15-20 mm. For plumbing, it is better to use plastic pipes.
Do-it-yourself repair of a wooden house, a photo of the process of which we are attaching, we will start from the walls. The logs of the crown are the most vulnerable place. Here, cracks and other damage are most often formed. The floor beams and the floor itself may also suffer (as already noted, it is better to dismantle it immediately).
Minor damage to the wood can be repaired without dismantling the walls. For this, problem areas should be cleaned, treated with an antiseptic, and then sealed with a suitable sealant. If we talk about the outside of the facade, then for cosmetic purposes, you can sheathe it with special panels of your choice. Siding is most often used, and it is mounted as follows:
The inner side of the walls can be sheathed with plasterboard. Plasterboard installation is carried out in a similar way.
Pay attention to the beams above window and doorways - they very often suffer from moisture. Places that have rotted must be replaced - this can be done simply by cutting out a piece of the beam and inserting a new part.
It is recommended not to neglect the treatment of the wall, even if you plan to sheathe it. Dirt and microorganisms can accumulate in places of damage, which will lead to the destruction of the wood.
If the house is quite old, you will most likely need to completely remove the roof covering. Inspect the frame, especially the condition of the rafters. The roof is easy to repair - any part can be replaced. To do this, use additional strength clamps - for a while, connect the existing beams (which you will not dismantle), nailing several boards between them. After that, you can remove low-quality rafters without fear of destroying the frame.
Take a close look at the main detail of the roof - the Mauerlat. If signs of decay are found, be sure to saw out the damaged parts and insert new ones with secure fixation with plate pads or tie bolts. Ideally, the Mauerlat can be completely replaced by carefully dismantling its parts around the perimeter and installing new ones.
After repairing the roof frame, re-lay the covering. If desired, the roof can be additionally insulated using, for example, mineral wool.
Doors and windows in older homes will likely need to be completely replaced. But the main problem lies not in this, but in rather frequent cases of imbalance. To get rid of the skew, dismantle the door frame and level the walls using a level.
Reassemble and reinstall the door frame. All existing cracks must be blown out tightly with polyurethane foam. As for the doors, choose their model as you wish, but it is recommended to replace the windows with metal-plastic ones, since they are more durable and reliable than wooden ones, not to mention the thermal insulation properties.
Interior doors also need to be replaced in the same way along with the frames. If you have all the doors of the same format and size, then you can immediately prepare the required number of boards for the frame panels. But do not rush to install them inside the house, as you will still be doing floor repairs and finishing. You can install interior doors at the last stage of renovation work.
For a high-quality floor, it is recommended to make a concrete screed. If you don't have one, get to work. First of all, dismantle the logs on the floor (you do not need to cut them under the walls) and clean the area from debris and dust. The screed is laid in the following order: backfill (sand, fine gravel), insulating film, concrete layer. Be sure to level the screed. The concrete should dry for about one month at a temperature of about 20 degrees.
Then you can start laying the floor. This can be, for example, a laminate. For laying, a special substrate is first used, after which laminate sheets are laid on it, interconnected with "locks". An expansion gap of about 1 cm should be left near the walls, which is hidden by the baseboard.
If you don't want to screed, you can use planks to make the floor. In this case, the boards are simply nailed to the logs and sanded from above with a special machine. It is recommended to provide moisture insulation for such a floor by pouring a layer of expanded clay under the logs (if the logs are located on the ground).
The last stage of repairing wooden houses with your own hands, the video of which you can watch at the end of the article, is finishing work. If you've used drywall for the walls, be sure to putty and flatten it for wallpapering or painting.
A wooden floor made of boards should be treated with a special varnish and allowed to dry well. A similar procedure should be carried out with other wood materials that are in open areas.
VIDEO
This is how it looked before the renovation. Rotten wooden frames, closed from the outside with a double film, from cold and wind. To the left is an old veranda with a drooping porch canopy.
For those who have to make repairs in their home, it appears.
These were the windows and sills.
They began to put the house in order from the foundation.
One by one, we open the corners of the house, remove the rotten logs of the crowns using a chainsaw, put the formwork, put large stones and rubble, lay the reinforcement so that its ends remain open (for later fastening it to the pouring foundation), we wrap the log of the crown with roofing paper and fill it with concrete. ready-made curbstone.
And so all four corners of the house and its middle, along the perimeter. In total - 8 pedestals. The process is time consuming, difficult, but the result is worth it. When the curbstones were finished, we made a mound around the entire perimeter. The continuation of the outdoor work was postponed until the following summer. And we took up the interior renovation of the house.
This is a large room and let's start with it. Before the renovation, it looked like this:
This is her right corner. and this, in the photo below, is the left corner. As I write a thread, I'll stick to these two angles.
First, all layers of the old wallpaper were completely torn off. The windows were still old, but we were already waiting for the masters to install plastic windows.
The old stove was dismantled. and the stove-maker folded a new one.
Installation of plastic windows. the further, the more terrible, but the result is important.
AND THE RESULT DIDN'T MAKE YOURSELF WAIT LONG. I decided to close one window completely and make one big one - there will be a dining room.
After installing the windows, the men began to dismantle the old floor, level the logs and put brick cabinets under them.
Then the floors were laid with old boards (they will serve for a very long time, since they are thick and dry), and in places where there were rotten ones, they were replaced with new boards.
And then my "female work" has already begun, I insulated the walls with penofol,
Installed a metal frame for walls and ceilings. my mistake was that first you need to do the ceiling, and then the walls, and not vice versa. I found the technique for performing these works on the Internet, I will not dwell on it in detail. If you have any questions, I will be happy to answer ,what do I know.
It is much more difficult to fix the frame on the ceiling, the neck hurts.
When the metal frame is completely ready, you can sew gypsum boards to it, preferably in a checkerboard pattern, starting from the ceiling! Do not forget to scatter the electrical wiring and hide it in the gafrochannel, behind the profile, and install the distributor boxes in a place convenient for you.
In this photo you can see wooden blocks, I screwed them on for the subsequent fixing of bookshelves. Exactly the same, only thinner, I fix them under the ceiling above the windows (for fixing the cornices).
When all the walls and ceiling are sheathed with gypsum board, we putty with a spatula and align all the joints between the sheets and the places where the screws are screwed in with this composition.
At the corners and seams, we lay a reinforced mesh for the strength of the joints, and after everything is dry, we sand it, apply a primer to the walls and ceiling.
And now the most interesting moment is wallpapering. I took vinyl white for the ceiling and with delicate roses on the walls.
When the wallpaper is dry, I by mutual agreement
invited a team of craftsmen to finish their work in this room on the windows (slopes and window sills).
After that, I glued the ceiling plinth, hung the shelves on the wall, put my flowers on the windowsills, which the guys from the company had already installed for us.
The carpenter helped put the interior door, only then I found out that it was standing upside down. (what a difference!) if only it functions normally.
I pasted the doorways with a white corner on a liquid nail. On the right side, the stove is new, heats all the rooms at once.
The firebox itself is in the bathroom.
I put a substrate on the rough floor, then fiberboard and linoleum. Then she screwed the floor plinths with self-tapping screws and voila-beauty.
This is the big room.
Some of you wanted to see more details about concrete pedestals, so I added details. So, a layer of windows was inserted, the house was sheathed with flat slate from the outside, and a mound was made around the house, until next summer.
Now let's continue about outdoor work, after the cold winter and spring. next summer.
When all the pedestals are ready, gradually, opening each side of the house from the blockage, we remove the rotten logs of the lower crown, dry them with waterproofing,
we install the formwork, lay the reinforcement, connecting it to the ends of the reinforcement of the corner pedestals and fill it with concrete.
We do this together with a man, under my strict guidance.
We make brickwork on the finished foundation.
And as expected, the blind area has been made. not quite ordinary.
This is all about outdoor work, home renovation. If you have any questions, ask, with pleasure that I know, I will answer. And for everyone who is interested, the continuation of the internal renovation awaits - the dining room!
Thank you for your time. Your LYUDMILA.
Before you start restoring a house, you need to draw up an estimate, develop a detailed plan for the sequence of work, and determine the amount of repair.
First you need to decide in what condition the foundation is.If the old foundation has lost its strength and its condition is alarming, proceed to restore it. A quick foundation repair in low-rise construction can be done using screw pile technology. The bottom line is to replace any kind of foundation with screw piles.
When reconstructing the foundation under a wooden house, the building should be raised to a certain height using jacks. If the structure shows signs of severe destruction, then it is better to completely dismantle it and install a new one. The foundation with minor modifications can be reinforced with brickwork. If it is a strip structure, install the formwork and pour the concrete mixture over the foundation.
The most common material in low-rise construction is wood. Wooden log cabins can last 100 years, or even longer, but they also deteriorate and require restoration. The restoration of the old log house takes place in several stages. First, remove the old finish, look at the condition of the logs. Then the rotten crowns are replaced. Seal the seams between the logs. Today there are several options for sealing - this is the traditional old-fashioned way - caulking with tow and the modern method that has become popular in recent years - sealing with acrylic rubber sealant. The blockhouse is treated with an antiseptic.
For strengthening, the frame can be overlaid with bricks or revetted with artificial stone. A good option for renovating facades is siding.
The restoration work is completed with the repair of the roof. A strong reliable roof is a guarantee of a comfortable warm home. Remember, roof restoration is only done in dry weather.
The covering is removed from the roof, the crate is checked, all rotten boards are replaced with new ones. Sometimes it is necessary to change the rafter bars. If the wooden elements of the roof are affected by a bug, they must be treated with an antiseptic, nitro paint or acetone, they effectively fight parasites.
A waterproofing material is laid on top of the updated lathing, a new coating is laid.
Restoring an old home is a laborious process, but with the effort you can achieve remarkable results.
There are three main types of foundations: columnar, strip, monolithic.
The device of the simplest strip foundation is carried out as follows: first, coarse-grained sand, gravel or crushed stone with a layer of 20 cm is poured into a pre-prepared trench, which is carefully tamped, while sprinkling with water, and after that, the entire space is filled with cement mortar on the ground surface levels and a brick base or rubble stone is laid out. A double layer of roofing material or roofing paper is laid on top of the foundation.
Foundation blocks are installed on a leveled layer of sand up to the design level. The maximum deviation of the leveling layer of sand from this mark should be no more than 15 mm. In this case, the foundation glasses, as well as the supporting surfaces, should not be exposed to external contamination.
The most expensive of all types of foundations. The installation of such a foundation is usually carried out under heavy stone houses. It is poured into a single reinforced monolith to a freezing depth of 1.5 to 1.7 meters. Such a foundation is recommended for use in the construction of brick and block houses, which have a sufficiently strong effect on the foundation, and the distortion of the structure is likely to lead to cracks in the wall and the subsequent threat of destruction of the structure.
First, they conduct a thorough inspection of the building from the inside and outside, check the electrical wiring and existing engineering systems and record the detected damage. Then the nature of the repair is determined, taking into account:
financial opportunities;
the degree of destruction and the type of malfunction;
availability of the necessary skills.
The time of work is also an important factor.For example, in the summer it is advisable to repair the roof or put in order the heating, and interior decoration when heating the premises can be done in late autumn or winter. Depending on the complexity, repairs are:
Capital. In this case, they replace window and door blocks, roofs, utilities, dismantle old and lay new floor coverings, restore the foundation, finish and insulate the facade,
Cosmetic. It is limited to the elimination of minor damages and decoration of premises.
With limited financial resources, it is advisable to make repairs at a combined-type dacha. It includes urgent capital work and interior and exterior decoration and will cost relatively inexpensive.
Having decided on the type of repair, they select materials, calculate their quantity and draw up a list of the necessary tools and devices.
You can refresh the facades of a wooden house with an acrylic or latex coating, the cost of which varies from 3,000 rubles to 13,000 rubles for 10 liters. This will not only protect the surface from the negative effects of the climate, but also preserve the texture of the wood.
Buildings made of rounded logs or beams are treated with impregnations, sealing all the seams and gaps between the crowns with jute fiber, flax. Or a polymer-based sealant.
The exterior walls of the cottage are made of blocks or bricks using acrylic or silicone exterior paint. At the same time, do not neglect the primer: it additionally protects the facade, improves its adhesion and reduces the consumption of the topcoat.
Other options for facing external walls and their cost are shown in the table.
For additional protection against cold penetration, the roof and outer surfaces of the house are insulated with mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or sprayed polyurethane foam.
Carrying out a complete or partial overhaul of a private house, the list of actions is determined according to the type of damaged element and the degree of necessary reconstruction.
With small defects in the base, it is strengthened with additional masonry in the place of deformation. If the foundation has visible destruction along the entire perimeter, then the following is performed:
clean the surface from dirt;
dig a trench along the base;
reinforce the structure with anchors and metal mesh;
formwork is being constructed;
concrete solution is poured.
After gaining strength, the surface of the foundation is covered with silicate-based compounds or revetted with various materials.
Breaks or decayed sections of the rafter system are eliminated using a suitable piece of board or timber. In order for the wood and fasteners to remain in their original form longer, they are treated with special protective equipment. Further repairs depend on the type of roof, which is:
Metallic. For small scratches or defects, a silicone putty is used, and in the case of significant deformation, the sheet is removed and a new one is fixed with screws.
Cement-sand or ceramic. The damaged plate is removed, the surface is cleaned of the old putty, the whole element is laid and the joints are filled with a fresh solution of sand, lime and tow.
In the form of shingles. When leaks appear due to displacement of the sheets, they are renewed or re-laid, carefully fixing with an adhesive or nails.
If necessary, in damaged areas, not only the roofing is replaced, but also other structural details.
Elimination of damage to engineering networks or their replacement are technically complex operations that require special skills, especially if the water supply or heating system is made of metal pipes.
It is much easier to work with metal-plastic or polymer ones, and you can use both special equipment and shaped elements to connect them.
When repairing a summer house inside, you should first pay attention to the condition of the floor. The decayed logs are replaced by pre-treating the wood with a protective compound. Deformed areas of laminate or parquet boards can be easily removed due to the special design. Natural wood floors are more labor-intensive: to remove a damaged floorboard, you must carefully loosen the fasteners with a nailer. The gaps between the boards are filled with putty or synthetic cord impregnated with PVA glue.
Wall repair technology depends on the materials used. If wallpaper was used, then it is enough to glue them in the corners of the room and at the joints of the walls with the ceiling. In case of significant damage, it is advisable to purchase new ones, picking them up taking into account the interior design. To freshen up panels made of wood and its derivatives, you will need a putty to repair scratches and dents and various paints and varnishes.
Usually, in the country, the ceiling has a simple structure and is made of plywood, fiberboard and other panels of this type. If they are deformed, you need to cut out the damaged area and fix the sheet of the required size without defects. As a finish, paintable wallpaper, various paints and varnishes, decorative foam plates and other materials are used. The color scheme can be any, but it is better to give preference to pastel colors. An interesting effect is obtained in the presence of open beams: painted in dark shades against a white surface, they visually increase the height of the rooms.
Sometimes the premises in the country house need some renovation, which is easy to arrange with the help of design techniques. Bright curtains and furniture covers, handmade pillows and blankets, self-woven rugs - and the rooms will sparkle with fresh colors. Carefully selected accessories will be the finishing touch to the formation of the interior, and competent lighting will visually transform the surrounding space.
Stylish, comfortable and cozy kitchen — the dream of every hostess. Using various methods of decoration, you can even transform old furniture into an art object.
To make it comfortable and beautiful in the country or in a private house, significant sums are not always needed. Sometimes it is enough to give scope to your imagination and make a little effort.
So, you start overhauling your home. It will not be possible to put it off for later - almost everything has become dilapidated over time. So you have a tremendous job ahead of you. Where to start, what stages of work are ahead and who will do all this - you yourself or a hired team of specialists?
With a real assessment of the situation - the amount of work, your skills and repair skills, financial capabilities. Ideally, it is best to hire an experienced team led by a good foreman. It is he who will propose the overhaul project, will be responsible for the progress and quality of the repair. The pros have all the necessary tools for any kind of work in the arsenal.
But in practice, owners have to take on a lot to save costs. Make a detailed plan, determining what you will radically change - the roof, facade, communications, windows, doors. Surely something will require just partial repairs. Calculate the upcoming costs; you need to approach the budgeting very carefully. Make a separate calculation for all objects:
measure the area of each surface (ceiling, walls, floor);
measure the length of pipes, wires for communications;
count the amount of materials needed (brick, tile, wallpaper, flooring, etc.) based on the measurements obtained.
Overhaul of the house includes external work, replacement of utilities and internal work.
Replacing communications (water supply, sewerage, electrical wiring, heating, ventilation, gas supply) is not only laborious, costly, but also requires special knowledge and skills. It is better to entrust this to the masters.
Since the renovation of your house is complete, you will definitely carry out the replacement of doors and windows. As for plastic windows, installing them yourself is a risky business. Incorrect measurement or non-observance of the installation technology can lead to a violation of the geometry of the structure, which, in turn, will lead to a violation of heat and sound insulation. But the doors can be installed independently:
dismantle the old door with a frame;
install a new door frame in the opening;
we blow out the cracks between the frame and the opening with polyurethane foam, let it dry, plaster;
we put the door on the previously oiled hinges.
The foundation is the foundation of the house. If cracks are found in it, it means that over time it has precipitated and will need to be strengthened:
we clean the foundation from dirt and old plaster;
we hammer a metal mesh into the base structure, attach it to the anchors;
we install the formwork and concreting on the sides;
after the concrete has hardened, fill up the trenches, tamp each layer;
we apply an external decorative facing layer.
Overhaul of a private house will clearly require roof repair. This can be the dismantling of the coating and its replacement, heat and sound insulation of the attic. Overhaul of the rafter system may also be required if the rot damage exceeds 50% of the total area. From roofing materials, experts recommend metal tiles or ondulin.
Then you can start updating the facade. The old walls, depending on the state, will have to be given special attention: if they are led away, we disassemble and put it again. And if the walls have not lost their strength, then we will finish the facade. To do this, you will have to remove the old coating, patch up the cracks. You may need wall insulation. After a thorough examination, the method of thermal insulation (internal or external) is determined and the technology of insulation is selected: "wet method" or hinged ventilated facades.
And then the actual finishing work: finishing primer and decorative finishing for every taste - from brickwork to plastic panels or decorative stones.
After finishing the outdoor work, you can start finishing inside the premises. We will deal with bathrooms and kitchens first of all:
we start by dismantling old plumbing fixtures and pipes;
we install and adjust electrical equipment;
we carry out plumbing work;
align walls and floors;
we make tiling works;
repairing the ceiling;
we insert interior doors;
we install plumbing fixtures.
Decorating the rooms is the final stage of the overhaul of the house. Having removed the old wallpaper, we level the walls, glue the new ones. On the ceiling, if there is a desire and funds, we install a suspension system. Choose a floor covering to your taste - laminate, linoleum, parquet, carpet. Many people use the "warm floor" system to insulate their homes.
Since you need to prepare for a major overhaul in advance, it would be nice to study the topic in detail:
read construction magazines;
study thematic sites;
visit forums where people give sometimes very valuable advice from personal experience;
watch video tutorials from real professionals.
Even if you will involve masters in the case, you need to be in the know, controlling the process. Keep a diary of work, where you will write down the addresses and phone numbers of the shops you need, contacts of specialists, prices for materials, accounting of expenses. Make notes, comments - everything will come in handy! After all, major repairs are not forever, after some time something will need to be refurbished in the house.
Not many have the opportunity to overhaul the entire house in a short time, in which case divide this process into stages.
Is it realistic to do without the involvement of builders? It is unlikely that it will be possible to definitely answer: yes or no. Of course, do-it-yourself repairs will save a certain amount to pay for services. But if you make mistakes, then the rework will cost an extra pretty penny. An independent home overhaul will most likely take years, not months.So weigh the pros and cons - and good luck!
Installation of underfloor heating under the tiles:
Video (click to play).
VIDEO
