In detail: do-it-yourself repair of an old panel house from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Hello! Please tell me where to start and consistently reconstruct the old panel house. It so happened that there is no way to put a new one. I decided to remake the old panel board, put by my grandmother on the site. In addition to him, on the site there is also a living room for 2 rooms with an entrance hall, there is a separate shower with a changing room, wide, large. To begin with, I wanted to add a shower to the change house, moving it close to it and finish building a toilet. It would be such a small house with amenities. So far, to live in it and quietly reconstruct the old panel house. The house consists of one room - 20 sq. meters, kitchens - meters - 10 sq. meters. I would like to complete a small veranda, divide a large room into 2 rooms and extend the kitchen, put a small toilet and shower there. Prompt the sequence of work and the use of appropriate materials for this. Thanks in advance for your reply.
Alexander, Moscow.
Hello Alexander from Moscow!
Well, you have added some questions!
Without a detailed survey of the location of all your buildings, it is difficult to answer them.
The fact that you are not planning immediately, but gradually to reconstruct your grandmother's inheritance, the idea is correct.
Do you know how our priests act when they return the destroyed churches? They will first renovate a small corner of a large church with modest money and with the involvement of the most active parishioners. And immediately they begin to conduct church services in it. And in parallel, they continue to repair the rest of the premises, the benefit and money begin to flow from their activities. And in the end everything changes.
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This example is for comparison with your renovation plans. Do the same, you can't go wrong.
With the available funds, you should purchase the necessary building material. You will need river or quarry sand. In the amount of about 5 - 7 cubic meters. Lot? No, it is relatively inexpensive, but the transport, each of its trips, decent money. Therefore, it is easier to immediately bring with a reserve. It will be required for backfilling under the supports of your buildings, under the paths, for the preparation of cement mortar, and the remaining sand, if it remains, of course, for agricultural and other needs.
Cement, if it is needed in further construction, is bought immediately before its use. Since it can quickly turn into a dense mass during storage, unsuitable for further work with it. In any case, if you open the bag, then it should be wrapped in plastic wrap. So it will last longer without contact with moisture in the air.
You will also need commercial timber. Pine is most often used in its quality in the form of the most popular sawn timber - this is a bar with a section of 100/100 millimeters, a section of 50/50 millimeters, an edged board 150/50; 100/50; 150/25 mm. I cannot predict the amount of material required for you, it is calculated strictly individually. On the flip side, without pretending to be the slightest accuracy, I will say that large section beams may need at least 4 - 6 pieces, small section - about a dozen, large section boards - 10 pieces each and small section - about three or four dozen. (All - based on a 6-meter length).
If the lumber remains in small quantities, it can always be used for household needs. Although practice shows that more often it is always lacking.
For all kinds of wall cladding, ceilings, partitions, you will need lining.It is sold in packs of 10. It is clear that it is necessary to consider the area of future building elements and only after that buy the lining. Most often they buy it in various lengths. Let's say half of three meters and half of 2.5 or 2.7 meters. This is dictated by the fact that in different places its different lengths are required and so there will be less inevitable waste. And from longer boards you can always make shorter ones. They always try to adapt the longer ones first, and only then they build everything else from the scraps.
/ Remember that the width of a standard lining is usually 0.087 meters. / Lining, again depending on the thickness of the wallet, is taken of a different class (grade). The highest is “Prima” (aka “Extra”). Then the class "A", "B" and the lowest - "C". With an average income, clients buy class "B", in the best case - "A". Because “Prima” is dear, and you can't look at “C” without tears. When choosing packs, pay attention to the presence of moisture on the film from the inside, if there is dew, do not take it. The next point - since the packs are packed, then look at the presence of potholes and knots in the side parts of the lining. Choose lining without them. Which does not at all guarantee that after you bring the packs and open them on the spot, then half of them will be with any flaws.
The floorboard is calculated by the area of the floor. Taking into account the inevitable waste and the size of the room. Standard - 6 meters, less often - 4 and 3 meters. Try to do so that the remaining trim can be joined on the floor joists. For what, they try to take the distance between the lags with this in mind.
Window and door blocks, glass, finishing elements (plinths, layouts, platbands, strips, etc.) - as required.
Insulation is preferable from mineral slabs or rolled. Styrofoam - in extreme cases (the smell from it is persistent). All kinds of films are better waterproof.
Roofing material in accordance with those already available on your buildings.
Hardware, nails are available in stock. That is, of different lengths. Better galvanized.
Paints and impregnations - in the right quantities and in the appropriate color. From the expensive - "squirrel", cheap - only on the inner surfaces.
Plumbing and electrical is a separate issue.
An essential tool - the more the better.
That's all. As they say, at a gallop across Europe. Because you need a smart and smart mind, but never mind, experience comes during work.
And the priority is first all the markings, then earthwork (digging holes for supports), installing support blocks under the base of the buildings being moved, under the toilet. Laying water supply and sewer pipes, digging a drain pit. Dragging and dropping structures, placing them on blocks. Toilet assembly and assembly. Equipped with electrics and plumbing.
And then the device of the veranda with its roof, and the alteration of the house itself.
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Before you start restoring a house, you need to draw up an estimate, develop a detailed plan for the sequence of work, and determine the amount of repair.
First you need to decide in what condition the foundation is. If the old foundation has lost its strength and its condition is alarming, proceed to restore it. A quick foundation repair in low-rise construction can be done using screw pile technology. The bottom line is to replace any kind of foundation with screw piles.
When reconstructing the foundation under a wooden house, the building should be raised to a certain height using jacks.If the structure shows signs of severe destruction, then it is better to completely dismantle it and install a new one. The foundation with minor modifications can be reinforced with brickwork. If it is a strip structure, install the formwork and pour the concrete mixture over the foundation.
The most common material in low-rise construction is wood. Wooden log cabins can last 100 years, or even longer, but they also deteriorate and require restoration. The restoration of the old log house takes place in several stages. First, remove the old finish, look at the condition of the logs. Then the rotten crowns are replaced. Seal the seams between the logs. Today there are several options for sealing - this is the traditional old-fashioned way - caulking with tow and the modern method that has become popular in recent years - sealing with acrylic rubber sealant. The blockhouse is treated with an antiseptic.
For strengthening, the frame can be overlaid with bricks or revetted with artificial stone. A good option for renovating facades is siding.
The restoration work is completed with the repair of the roof. A strong reliable roof is a guarantee of a comfortable warm home. Remember, roof restoration is only done in dry weather.
The covering is removed from the roof, the crate is checked, all rotten boards are replaced with new ones. Sometimes it is necessary to change the rafter bars. If the wooden elements of the roof are affected by a bug, they must be treated with an antiseptic, nitro paint or acetone, they effectively fight parasites.
A waterproofing material is laid on top of the updated lathing, a new coating is laid.
Restoring an old home is a laborious process, but with the effort you can achieve remarkable results.
There are three main types of foundations: columnar, strip, monolithic.
The device of the simplest strip foundation is carried out as follows: first, coarse-grained sand, gravel or crushed stone with a layer of 20 cm is poured into a pre-prepared trench, which is carefully tamped, while sprinkling with water, and after that, the entire space is filled with cement mortar on the ground surface levels and a brick base or rubble stone is laid out. A double layer of roofing material or roofing paper is laid on top of the foundation.
Foundation blocks are installed on a leveled layer of sand up to the design level. The maximum deviation of the leveling layer of sand from this mark should be no more than 15 mm. In this case, the foundation glasses, as well as the supporting surfaces, should not be exposed to external contamination.
The most expensive of all types of foundations. The installation of such a foundation is usually carried out under heavy stone houses. It is poured into a single reinforced monolith to a freezing depth of 1.5 to 1.7 meters. Such a foundation is recommended for use in the construction of brick and block houses, which have a sufficiently strong effect on the foundation, and the distortion of the structure is likely to lead to cracks in the wall and the subsequent threat of destruction of the structure.
Any object needs regular inspection and removal of damage. Wooden houses require this more than others, even if they are a frame building with shield walls. Replacement of the lower beam of a panel house is especially often required. How to do it - detailed instructions below.
With the help of a chisel, it is easy to determine the degree of deterioration of the lower embedded bar to decide on its full or partial replacement. If the point enters the wood easily, and when the chisel moves, the rotten interior is revealed, then there is only one verdict - change immediately. Bypassing the entire structure, all parts of the house are checked by this method.
Perhaps there is damage on one of them, and then it is impractical to arrange a full-scale repair of a frame-panel house - you can simply eliminate some areas by replacing them with new ones.
The choice of wood should be approached responsibly - it should be free of visible defects, and before work it is recommended to impregnate it with all kinds of protection and impregnation. So:
- A bar of 150 mm in section, if it is possible to use a larger size, then this will be great - the frame house will receive even greater stability.
- Staples. They will be needed to fix the nodes.
- Saw. With a large replacement, you need to use a gasoline one, and small areas will cost a grinder or disc.
- Jacks. The carrying capacity should not be less than five tons.
- Chisels, hammers, axes.
- Foundation masonry tool or welding machine for cutting pile metal grillage.
- Nail pulling machine.
The principle of operation is the same as if it were carried out for a log house or a fully log house. So:
- First you need to remove the trim. At least up to window blocks. If the shields are a seamless structure, then you will have to work with a chainsaw, carefully cutting off sections and exposing the frame beam.
- Now you need to strengthen the frame at all important nodes - boards with a cross section of at least 40 mm are stuffed around the entire perimeter of the house from the street and inside. You need to use steel pins for fastening, for which holes are specially drilled.
Further, do-it-yourself repair of the panel house continues by raising the entire structure on jacks to the desired height. They will need one for every two meters of wall length. Before the house is raised, it is necessary to disconnect it from all communications, free the chimney from contact with the roof, remove all electrical networks that go out to the highways.
- When the new foundation finally hardens, you can start replacing the timber. They choose it in pieces, put a new one, after inserting the pins into the drilled holes, put the seal in the grooves, and lower the house.
The process is carried out slowly, with a mandatory check for bias. After installing the house, you need to immediately remove the wooden ties, previously stuffed onto the frame, so that the house “relaxes” and takes the desired position.
- If everything suits you, you can sew up the frame. It will not work to make the house a factory again. Therefore, they use boards, chipboard, fiberboard and other materials, not forgetting to shift the interior of the walls with insulation, cotton wool boards or foam.
House repairs and even more so the replacement of crowns, even in a lightweight panelboard facility, cannot be done independently.
A brigade will be required. This is associated with a great risk to life and construction.
Correct repair of panel houses is a well-coordinated work with a calculated sequence.
You cannot first replace one wall, and then take up the foundation.
This is how it looked before the renovation. Rotten wooden frames, closed from the outside with a double film, from cold and wind. To the left is an old veranda with a drooping porch canopy.
For those who have to make repairs in their home, it appears.
These were the windows and sills.
They began to put the house in order from the foundation.
One by one, we open the corners of the house, remove the rotten logs of the crowns using a chainsaw, put the formwork, put large stones and rubble, lay the reinforcement so that its ends remain open (for later fastening it to the pouring foundation), we wrap the log of the crown with roofing paper and fill it with concrete. ready-made curbstone.
And so all four corners of the house and its middle, along the perimeter. In total - 8 pedestals.The process is time consuming, difficult, but the result is worth it. When the curbstones were finished, we made a mound around the entire perimeter. The continuation of the outdoor work was postponed until the following summer. And we took up the interior renovation of the house.
This is a large room and let's start with it. Before the renovation, it looked like this:
This is her right corner. and this, in the photo below, is the left corner. As I write a thread, I'll stick to these two angles.
First, all layers of the old wallpaper were completely torn off. The windows were still old, but we were already waiting for the masters to install plastic windows.
The old stove was dismantled. and the stove-maker folded a new one.
Installation of plastic windows. the further, the more terrible, but the result is important.
AND THE RESULT DIDN'T MAKE YOURSELF WAIT LONG. I decided to close one window completely and make one big one - there will be a dining room.
After installing the windows, the men began to dismantle the old floor, level the logs and put brick cabinets under them.
Then the floors were laid with old boards (they will serve for a very long time, since they are thick and dry), and in places where there were rotten ones, they were replaced with new boards.
And then my "female work" has already begun, I insulated the walls with penofol,
Installed a metal frame for walls and ceilings. my mistake was that first you need to do the ceiling, and then the walls, and not vice versa. I found the technique for performing these works on the Internet, I will not dwell on it in detail. If you have any questions, I will be happy to answer ,what do I know.
It is much more difficult to fix the frame on the ceiling, the neck hurts.
When the metal frame is completely ready, you can sew gypsum boards to it, preferably in a checkerboard pattern, starting from the ceiling! Do not forget to scatter the electrical wiring and hide it in the gafrochannel, behind the profile, and install the distributor boxes in a place convenient for you.
In this photo you can see wooden blocks, I screwed them on for the subsequent fixing of bookshelves. Exactly the same, only thinner, I fix them under the ceiling above the windows (for fixing the cornices).
When all the walls and ceiling are sheathed with gypsum board, we putty with a spatula and align all the joints between the sheets and the places where the screws are screwed in with this composition.
At the corners and seams, we lay a reinforced mesh for the strength of the joints, and after everything is dry, we sand it, apply a primer to the walls and ceiling.
And now the most interesting moment is wallpapering. I took vinyl white for the ceiling and with delicate roses on the walls.
When the wallpaper is dry, I by mutual agreement
invited a team of craftsmen to finish their work in this room on the windows (slopes and window sills).
After that, I glued the ceiling plinth, hung the shelves on the wall, put my flowers on the windowsills, which the guys from the company had already installed for us.
The carpenter helped put the interior door, only then I found out that it was standing upside down. (what a difference!) if only it functions normally.
I pasted the doorways with a white corner on a liquid nail. On the right side, the stove is new, heats all the rooms at once.
The firebox itself is in the bathroom.
I put a substrate on the rough floor, then fiberboard and linoleum. Then she screwed the floor plinths with self-tapping screws and voila-beauty.
This is the big room.
Some of you wanted to see more details about concrete pedestals, so I added details. So, a layer of windows was inserted, the house was sheathed with flat slate from the outside, and a mound was made around the house, until next summer.
Now let's continue about outdoor work, after the cold winter and spring. next summer.
When all the pedestals are ready, gradually, opening each side of the house from the blockage, we remove the rotten logs of the lower crown, dry them with waterproofing,
we install the formwork, lay the reinforcement, connecting it to the ends of the reinforcement of the corner pedestals and fill it with concrete.
We do this together with a man, under my strict guidance.
We make brickwork on the finished foundation.
And as expected, the blind area has been made. not quite ordinary.
This is all about outdoor work, home renovation. If you have any questions, ask, with pleasure that I know, I will answer. And for everyone who is interested, the continuation of the internal renovation awaits - the dining room!
Thank you for your time. Your LYUDMILA.
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New timber housing, hand-built from scratch - what more could you ask for? Unfortunately, many can only dream of such an option. Not everyone has such an opportunity: a high-quality tree has an appropriate cost, and there are no building skills.
Buying an old wooden house or a country house is much easier for many - this is an affordable option.
And people often inherit old huts from relatives, often in a very neglected and even uninhabited state. Before you start using it, such housing must be put in order. It should be noted that often quite suitable wood is found under the old coating - although not new, but quite high quality. They knew how to build before.
First of all, a thorough inspection of the house is required. It is advisable to start with its foundation. If you immediately proceed directly to the restoration of the old village house, and later it turns out that problems with the foundation of the house interfere with its full use, then the work done will be in vain. If, during the examination, serious deficiencies in the foundation are found (partial destruction, filling corners, dampness, mold, deformation, cracks), then they must be eliminated. 
