Restoration of brickwork - a complex of works on the complete restoration of the appearance and functionality of the walls. If financially possible, it is recommended to entrust the renovation to professionals. Preliminary it is recommended to conduct an inspection - it happens that it is wiser to make a major overhaul.
Prices (per square meter) depend on the tools and materials used.
Before repairing the masonry, after removing the old bricks, they begin to get rid of efflorescence, fungal infections, and graffiti. The estimate for the repair depends significantly on the chosen method of performing this procedure.
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1. Mechanical. The most time-consuming method, it is carried out using stiff brushes, wooden scrapers or an angle grinder (grinder) with scraping discs. When cleaning with a brush, due to the use of manual labor, the cost of performing the work increases, the process itself is time-consuming and does not guarantee a good result.
2. Washing. Water with the addition of detergents removes minor dirt. During the procedure, it is necessary to ensure that moisture does not penetrate deep into the seams and does not corrode them.
Video (click to play).
3. Hydrojet. It occurs due to the impact on the pollution of a powerful jet of water from a hydraulic jet apparatus with a high-pressure pump.
4. Chemical. For more effective cleaning of bricks from efflorescence and other contaminants, various special agents are used - liquid or pastes. Disadvantage - significantly increases the cost of restoration. Resin, oil, bitumen stains are removed using conventional organic solvents: white spirit, kerosene, turpentine.
5. Sandblasting. The compressor blows a special type of sand onto the wall with a strong flow of compressed air. There are four methods: classic, wet - for very dirty surfaces, with ice - to remove dirt even from the smallest cracks, fire - to clean walls heavily overgrown with moss or mold. Disadvantages - often the surface is damaged, chips may appear; very poor visibility in the process of work; Requires personal protective equipment against dust clouds; high consumption of sand.
6. Soft blasting. This is a type of abrasive blasting technology, which includes sandblasting, but instead of sand, soft materials are used. Main advantages - visibility is not reduced, which allows you to control the process; the surface is not damaged due to the use of low-abrasive compounds; safety for humans and the environment.
7. Dust-free blasting with water. Differs in complete absence of dust, after completion there is no dirt and waste.
Artificial aging of bricks is also referred to restoration work. It is performed using soft blasting or dust-free with water. Prices per square meter are the same as for cleaning. The surface of the masonry is made uneven, visually increasing its age. This effect is used to create a fashionable loft style in the interior and design of the facades of the house. The introduction of such processing into the estimate does not significantly affect the final cost of the repair.
The choice of method depends on the type of prevailing contamination. For instance:
stains from oils and soot, remnants of masonry mortar, old paint, mold - sandblasting;
graffiti, paint, rust - soft blasting, sandblasting;
plaster - before restoring a plastered wall, remove the old coating mechanically with a chisel and hammer, then wipe it with a stiff brush and wash off the remnants of dirt with a wet rag;
efflorescence - metal brush and water;
moss - any mechanical or abrasive blasting method.
The order of the main restoration work:
1. Cutting of the seams is carried out if it is required to replace the old block with a new one or the solution began to crumble and fall out. It is removed with a special mechanical tool to a depth of 2.5 cm.
2. If the bricks are partially destroyed or the customer wants to change the appearance and shape of the elements, to create a certain pattern on the facades, then they perform cutting and alignment. For this purpose, a slot saw is used.
3. It is possible to pick up stones of the same age as those from which the masonry was made, but this will significantly increase the cost of the final price. Basically, they choose a block that is most compatible in color and other characteristics with the old one, since the goal is to most accurately restore the appearance of the wall.
4. After cleaning, joining, cutting and leveling, proceed to the restoration of the joints. The quality of this work is especially important. The restoration mortar must be sufficiently thick. First, the vertical seams are filled, then the horizontal ones. The mixture is applied in such a way that it completely closes the gap flush with the wall surface, then give the seams the desired shape.
1. Antiseptics. They are applied during restoration to walls affected by mold, moss after mechanical cleaning. The masonry is pre-moistened, then treated with 5% formalin solution, 2-3% copper sulfate solution or a special moss repellent (for example Sammalpois).
2. Water repellents applied to various surfaces to prevent efflorescence, increase moisture resistance, resistance to atmospheric precipitation while maintaining vapor permeability. After such treatment, a protective film is formed, but at the same time the walls "breathe". The vapor permeability of materials subjected to hydrophobization fundamentally distinguishes this type of moisture protection from waterproofing, which clogs the pores. Efflorescences not only worsen the appearance of the facades, salt crystals inside the pores of the brick gradually destroy it.
3. Liquid chemicals and gels for removing graffiti (including permanent markers) or old paint. They allow you to restore the appearance of brickwork without the use of abrasive blasting technologies. The disadvantage is the high price.
4. Liquid protection against graffiti. They create a long-term barrier (from 5 to 10 years) from spray paint application, the walls remain vapor-permeable. Some further improve weather resistance.
When repairing brick walls, you first need to find out the reason for the appearance and the stability of their dimensions. To do this, all facades of the building are examined, the nature of defects is assessed, and how to remove the factors that provoke them. Then the slits are sealed in several places across with paper tape indicating the date of application and left for two to three weeks. The tape is glued to Moment glue or PVA. A plaster beacon or a scale plate can be used instead. If the paper does not tear within the specified time, then they begin to seal and restore the appearance. If the reason is shrinkage and the crack grows, then there is no point in trying to get rid of it until the width stops increasing.
1. Most often, the cracks are simply sealed with cement mortar, sealant, polyurethane foam, liquid glass. First, you need to expand with a chisel or hammer to penetrate the selected agent into the defect. Alternatively, injection technology can be used.To do this, holes are drilled along the entire length of the slot into which the injectors are inserted. The mixture is pumped into them under pressure using a special apparatus.
2. For additional reinforcement, use a metal mesh, T-shaped anchors, dowels, staples. A fragment of a wall with cracks more than 1 cm wide is most often completely disassembled, starting from the top. New masonry is carried out with reinforcing rods, which fill all the cracks.
3. The staples are inserted into the pre-drilled holes, then secured and clamped on both sides. If there is a crack on the front of the building, then recesses are made under the brackets. From above they are covered with a solution, then after the completion of the restoration they will be absolutely invisible. It is possible to use overlays instead of staples - metal strips. They are attached to the wall with dowel-nails.
4. If there are several slots on the facade, long metal strips are fixed horizontally across the entire length, and they are fixed with anchors.
5. If the cracks are small in length, then only damaged elements can be removed from the wall during restoration and new ones can be placed in their place, resulting in a brick castle. For through slots, it is performed on both sides. If the width of the defect is more than 1 cm, then an anchor made of rolled metal - a channel or I-beam is installed in the upper part. A groove is made under it in the facade, which is filled with cement mortar. Fixed on both sides with bolts.
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The final price of the renovation depends on its area, condition, complexity of the detected defects, the repair methods chosen by the customer and additional services.
V Probably, you have repeatedly encountered the destruction of brick walls, and even more likely that you have encountered it now. The trouble is not uncommon. After all, walls, in comparison with other parts of buildings, are exposed to more varied and strong destructive influences. The information that you glean here will certainly come in handy, if not for you personally, then for some of your friends, relatives, acquaintances, namely, then you will find out how to repair a brick wall or brickwork do it yourself.
In addition to the load-bearing base, a brick wall often has a layer of plaster and / or cladding. These finishing layers provide heat, sound insulation, protection from the effects of atmospheric precipitation, specific influences (radiation, high temperature, chemicals).
Destruction (of both the main array and the wall covering) can lead to unpleasant consequences. This means that the timely repair of even minor damage is very important.
Starting the repair, we determine the reasons that led to the destruction. Their influence must be eliminated, at least as much as possible reduced. Otherwise, the renovation will not make sense. The exception is natural wear and tear.
Then, we define the damage done to the wall. The task of this step is to answer the question - is it necessary to strengthen the wall, or is it enough to do with superficial restoration.
Of course, only experimental studies will give an accurate picture, however, you can decide whether it is worth repairing a brick wall, or whether it is easier to make a new one, on your own.
Before disassembly, provide additional, temporary fastening (reinforcement) of structures resting on the wall. This is mandatory, even if the destroyed place at first glance does not have a big effect on the bearing capacity of the wall.
For reinforcement, use special racks-jacks.In simple cases, they manage with massive racks of logs, beams, metal profiles, with a cross-sectional width of 12-15 mm, minimum. To give the racks additional stability, they are strengthened with stretch marks, struts, etc.
In the masonry mortar, to accelerate the setting and compensate for shrinkage, it is useful to add stucco.
Now let's move on to the finishing layers. Common problems for them are cracks, potholes, delamination. The causes of destruction are very different, from external forces to the initial violation of the work technology.
Small cracks are expanded with a spatula - "cut" so that the solution better fills the flaw (see Fig. 1). When filling large potholes, pieces of crushed stone are added to the solution.
Do not rush, try to immediately repair the damage by laying a thick layer of mortar. Better to apply it two or three times, each time allowing the layer to set.
We knock down the peeling layers. We clean the surface of dust, primer if necessary. Then we apply new plaster and finish.
It happens that progressive destruction remains unnoticed for a long time. This is possible when the cladding materials withstand significant deformations without noticeable external manifestations. Examples - well-stretching vinyl wallpaper, "liquid" wallpaper, plastic lining.
Invisible cracks may be the result of serious malfunctions, and the seemingly reliable design is held "on parole." Therefore, an extremely scrupulous and picky study of structures will be justified. Also, the destruction of the wall can be a consequence of the destruction of the foundation, which will also need repairs. If you have any questions, ask in the comments below or here!
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Timely repair of brickwork walls in separate places helps to extend the life of the building and protect it from moisture penetration and further destruction. Recovery work can be done by hand, following the technology described in this article.
To prevent the destruction of a building, you need to know why its integrity can be violated.
Reasons for the destruction of a brick wall:
violation of technology during construction and incorrect calculation of loads on the foundation;
different soil density under the building;
lack of expansion (temperature) seams;
close location of groundwater;
shrinkage of the foundation, insufficient or excessive depth of its foundation;
deformation of beams
under the influence of moisture.
If there is a large layer of snow on the roof, this significantly increases the load on the supporting structures, which can lead to their shrinkage and destruction. To extend the service life of the building, it is necessary to timely clean the snow, drainpipes and repair the roof.
When cracks or deformation form, the first step is to find and eliminate the cause that negatively affects the building.
After that, monitor the building. Beacons are installed at the location of the cracks and the dynamics are monitored.
Repair work is carried out after eliminating the causes leading to destruction.
The destruction of masonry takes place in several stages:
under the influence of negative factors in the building, tension arises that is imperceptible to the gaze of a layman;
microcracks form in individual bricks, then they expand to the width of a hair;
cracks in masonry combine with each other and capture vertical seams, this leads to a serious violation of the integrity of the building.
Deformation can be established by measuring, visually, by calculating the permissible load on the brickwork.
If you start repairs without understanding the reasons leading to destruction, then the violation of the integrity of the brickwork will continue.
To repair brick walls, you need to know what damages are and their causes:
Repair of brick walls must be carried out in a timely manner, this will prevent further damage to the integrity of the wall.
Depending on the volume, causes and scale of damage, a certain type of repair work is chosen. For more information on repairing cracks, see this video:
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The types of restoration work and their characteristics are presented in the table:
To understand that the crack has stopped expanding, the damaged surface is pasted over with paper. If the paper is torn, then shrinkage and breakage continue. In this case, you need to look for the reasons and eliminate them.
If minor defects are not eliminated in time, overhaul of the brickwork of the outer walls and internal partitions, strengthening of the walls may be required. In this case, you will have to shift the masonry along the entire depth of the wall.
Before proceeding with the repair work, the cause that caused the damage to the building is eliminated.
Scope of work on overhaul:
A temporary reinforcement is installed for the undamaged section of the wall, located above the destroyed area.
The destroyed part of the brick wall is dismantled.
The construction of a new section of the wall is carried out from new bricks using a semi-rigid cement-sand mortar.
The reinforcing structure is removed 7-10 days after the installation of the last row. For more information on combating destruction, see this video:VIDEO
When repairing cracks that differ in size and depth, a screed device is required. To give the wall strength, it is pulled together with metal channels or anchors.
The fact that the masonry is in an emergency state is indicated by the following changes:
the deviation of the wall in the vertical plane or its bulging by 1/3 of the thickness or by 1/200 of the height;
overhanging bricks, facing tiles, peeling from the main structure;
cracks that intersect more than four rows of brickwork in a row;
mechanical damage more than 20 mm deep;
loss of integrity and delamination.
Restoration of brickwork with these damages consists in performing major repairs.
An individual map is created depending on the specific design features of the brickwork. Restoration work is carried out by professional bricklayers.
In order to prevent the destruction of walls, it is necessary to timely repair cracks in a brick wall, fill crumbling seams with cement, replace and restore damaged areas.
After the expiration of time, any brick buildings require restoration, the reasons for the violation of the integrity of the sections of the brick walls can be the shrinkage of the foundation, the weathering of the cement mortar at the seams of the masonry, the effect of atmospheric precipitation, temperature drops, and the like. How to restore the brick and prevent further destruction of the brickwork?
Removing brickwork is a whole range of activities, including assessing the condition of brick walls, removing worn-out elements, cleaning the surface, preparing building mixtures and restoring bricks. Proper care and timely repair work are necessary measures that allow you to extend the life of buildings and structures.
Before proceeding with the restoration work, the technical condition of the brickwork should be assessed. Common brick wall defects:
stratification of rows;
opening cracks;
deviation of the masonry from the vertical;
destruction of individual bricks;
bulging and destruction of individual areas.
When the first cracks and deformation phenomena appear, the first step is to establish and eliminate the cause of their manifestations, as well as to organize monitoring of the further dynamics of the development of deformations. Otherwise, there is no guarantee that cracks will not reappear after the repair work has been carried out.
Monitoring the state of deformation processes begins when cracks open over 10 millimeters. Observation consists in measuring the depth of cracks, installing beacons along them. Plaster or paper is used as beacons; when installing beacons on plastered walls, the layer of plaster is knocked down until the brick is exposed.
Important! The elimination of cracks in brickwork begins when the installed beacons indicate the stabilization of deformation processes.
To seal cracks with an opening of no more than 5 millimeters, cement mortar is used. Before carrying out repair work, the section of the wall with a crack is cleaned of debris and moistened with water. You can use a brush, hand sander, or compressed air to clean the surface. In order for the brick to grip well with the cement mortar, its edges are knocked down a little with a hammer.
It is possible to repair cracks in a brick wall with a width of 5 to 10 millimeters as described above, replacing the cement mortar for sealing cracks with a sand-cement mixture.
Cracks in bricks with an opening of 10 mm or more require special attention. Do-it-yourself brickwork repair can be done in the following ways:
with the help of polyurethane foam - in this way, vertical cracks can be restored. The foam is blown into the gap, after hardening, the material is cut to a depth of about two centimeters, the resulting gap is sealed with cement mortar;
with the use of metal anchors and cement mortar - along the length of the crack, metal anchors are installed in several places, the anchors are fastened to the wall using dowels. Close up the crack with cement mortar;
by replacing the damaged area with new masonry - a masonry area that has become unusable is dismantled, moving in the direction from top to bottom. To seal the resulting opening, a restoration brick is used, which is laid according to the "brick castle" principle.
Weathering of the seams, at first glance, a minor defect in brick walls, however, you should be aware that moisture penetrating into the premises through destroyed joints can subsequently lead to the destruction of masonry sections.
The process of restoring the integrity of the seams consists of several stages:
removal of the collapsed mortar in the seams;
clearing (deepening) the seam;
moisturizing;
filling the joints with mortar.
The first three stages refer to preparatory work. To carry them out you will need:
carpentry chisel;
hammer;
metal brush;
brush or spray.
To fill the joints with mortar, use a flat narrow trowel and a wooden board with a handle. The solution is applied to the surface vertically from bottom to top, horizontally - from left to right.
Watch a video on the restoration of old brickwork:
VIDEO Repairing the brickwork of the exterior walls can be done using one of the following methods:
counter-drilling method;
dismantling and restoration of individual sections of brickwork;
saw method;
reinforcement of a brick wall.
Dismantling and repairing the brickwork of the walls in some places will require financial investments. The essence of the restoration method is quite simple, the section of the wall with brick deformation is disassembled, a waterproofing material is laid, then the brickwork is restored.
Restoration of brickwork consists of the following: a brick surface is sawn through horizontally, the cutting site is stamped with waterproofing materials, the gaps in the brickwork are filled with a mineral suspension,designed to restore the statics of brickwork. This method of restoration is quite effective, but expensive.
Reinforcing masonry is a reliable way to maintain the integrity of a brick wall and restore the load-bearing capacity of a structure. Repair of a brick facade is carried out by using steel, composite, reinforced concrete or reinforced mortar clips.
The steel cage is a frame made of thick reinforcement, steel corners and strip steel. A metal mesh is attached over the frame. The surface is plastered with cement or polymer-cement mortar, the second option is more preferable, since the polymer-cement mortar does not make the structure heavier, while increasing the bearing capacity of brick walls by 60%.
The repair of brick walls by means of composite reinforcement provides the vertical compressive strength of the load-bearing structures, as well as the shear and shear strength of the cross-section. This method involves the use of glass or carbon fiber as a reinforcing layer.
It consists of steel reinforcement and concrete mixture, it is characterized by good strengthening ability, the lack of reinforced concrete clips is the large weight of the structure, which entails an additional load on the foundation of the building.
Reinforced mortar belts are made on the basis of reinforced concrete pilasters, reinforcing cages or mesh. The reinforced material is attached to the brick using studs or anchors. A layer of sand-cement mortar is applied on top of the cage.
According to the method of installation and purpose, the stiffening belts are divided into the following types:
local;
are common;
clips installed along the perimeter of the building;
belts used to tear off corners;
clips installed at the rupture of buildings;
belts used when tearing the inner walls from the walls of the facade.
To restore the walls of old buildings, the construction market offers to use special restoration bricks. Building material for restoration work is produced by the firing method; restoration brick differs from its counterpart in non-standard dimensions.
In addition, we are watching a video on the restoration of brickwork using the injection method:
VIDEO
Brickwork, made by the hands of a master, looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing. Many homeowners decide that she will decorate their home not only outside, but also inside.
But over time, it may require either repair or some kind of external revision in order to match the overall style of the interior. This article will describe several ways on how to refine a brick wall on your own.
Repair of brickwork is necessary if cracks appear on it, seams have crumbled, and the brick itself has become poorly adhered or destroyed from time to time. Just plastering the wall is not an option, since you want to preserve the original appearance of the surface.
Methods for eliminating defects depend on their type and degree of wear, but in any case, a thorough preparation of the surface for repair is necessary first.
You will have to do the following:
Remove a layer of old paint or plaster, if any;
Clean cracks and seams from mortar residues, dirt and dust using a stiff brush;
Rinse the wall with clean water;
Dry thoroughly.
The most difficult of the above is to clean the walls from plaster protruding from the mortar joints and adhered cement.
There are two ways to clear the cement from the brick:
Mechanical. Before starting work, the surface is well moistened with water - this way the solution is easier to clean. Flat spots are removed with a spatula or trowel. A wire brush can also be used, but it will scratch the surface, especially of sand-lime bricks. Bulky pieces of cement are chipped off with a chisel and hammer. To permanently remove all dirt, use sandpaper or a sander.
Chemical. Special agents for softening cement mortar can be bought and used as directed, following the manufacturer's recommendations. And you can dilute sulfuric or hydrochloric acid with water in a ratio of 1:10, and apply the solution to the wall for 10-30 minutes, depending on the thickness of the cement. After that, remove it mechanically, and rinse the surface with water. Of course, eye and skin protection must be kept in mind.
Note! This method is suitable only for red ceramic bricks, but not for silicate bricks. Cleaning solutions contain acids that will corrode it. But if aging and painting of silicate bricks are planned in the future, you can try it too.
The most difficult question may be how to repair the brickwork if the brick crumbles and does not hold well in its place. The decaying stone must be replaced, since moisture penetrates through it into the masonry, which will ultimately lead to wider negative consequences.
Therefore, such bricks are removed from the wall, for which the seams around them are sewn to the maximum depth using a chisel and a hammer or perforator.
If necessary, remove adjacent stones. Those that have not been destroyed should try not to hurt and leave in place. After removing the defective elements, the surface is prepared for restoration as described above.
Note. It is rather difficult to select a new brick for old masonry in color and texture. It may have to be artificially aged with your own hands. How this is done will be described a little later.
Ancient monuments prove that brickwork can withstand millennia. However, if you want to maintain its appearance, it is necessary to immediately repair any cracks and chips, especially in areas with cold climates. Even the thinnest crack allows moisture to penetrate the wall or slab and continue its destruction in freeze-thaw cycles.
It is not difficult to repair such a crack using a conventional or liquid solution. The methods described here for repairing masonry, concrete and plaster also apply to paths and areas, only the direction of movement of the tools changes. However, the method used depends on the defect. Three types of defects are most common: crumbling of mortar in the seams, destruction of part of the wall and destruction of steps and paths.
Recommendations for the repair of brickwork
If you noticed crumbled mortar in the joints of old walls , remove the remaining mortar with a chisel and fill the joints with new mortar. If there are any cracked or fallen bricks from the wall, install new ones. In both cases, you can make repairs without leaving marks by picking up bricks and expanding the seams to match the rest of the wall seams.
The solution shrinks as it dries and this can lead to cracks in new seams. New red bricks pick up moisture immediately after production and expand slightly. This expansion is usually sufficient for thin cracks to close. However, new silicate (sand and lime) or concrete bricks shrink after a while. Wait for such a crack to stabilize, then cover it with cement paste. To prepare the slurry, mix the cement with water to form a slurry that can be used to cover the crack.Wide crack or crack that widens after repair may indicate serious structural damage to the building. Do not try to repair such a crack in a load-bearing or high wall, it is better to contact a specialist right away. A wide crack in a low and non-load-bearing wall can be covered with grout.It is dangerous to leave destroyed concrete paths or cracked steps without repair. The materials required for the repair may vary depending on the size and type of damage.. Small cracks, for example, can be covered with a grout; large ones require a conventional solution. If the tiles do not stick to the steps, they can be glued with synthetic glue. However, if part of the step has collapsed, it will have to be rebuilt from the solution.remember, that the solution must be kept moist for three to four days until it reaches the required strength. If possible, cover the repair site with foil and water it several times a day in hot weather.
Use a metal chisel to cut the mortar in the joint to a depth of about 16 mm. To ensure good adhesion, clean the surface of the bricks at the joint. Clean the joint thoroughly with a brush to remove dust. Attention: be sure to carry out this work with protective goggles.
Moisten the joint with a brush and water or a spray hose. Place a 10 mm layer of mortar on the falcon (wooden board with a handle to hold the mortar during operation). Using the lower cutting plane, which is smaller than a normal trowel, cut a thin piece of mortar and press it against the seam. Since you are pushing the mortar away from you, pick it up with the bottom cutting plane. To fill long joints with mortar, you can use a jointing with a flat surface.
When working with bricks, it is often necessary to split the bricks into small pieces. Use a pencil and ruler to draw a split line around the brick. Draw an oblique line if necessary (box below) however, remember that it is more difficult to split a brick along an oblique line. Wear glasses to protect your eyes from splinters. Place the brick on a layer of sand with the part you want to use facing you. Place the wide chisel blade on the split line and hit it with a hammer. Gradually deepen the groove around the brick. Listen for the sound of the beats. When the brick starts to crack, the sound becomes muffled and you can finish the job with a sharp blow. Cut off irregularities with a trowel.
Draw a split line on all four sides of the brick that will bisect it. Use the square end of a pick hammer to cut the brick along the line (remember to wear safety glasses). For very hard bricks, use a chisel as shown above. Then take a firm grip on the brick with one hand and hit it hard with the flat end of the hammer near the center of the chipped line. (You may need to practice a little to learn how to gently break a brick in half with one punch.) Smooth the surface of the brick with a thin hammer blade.
Splitting bricks lengthways is more difficult than splitting across. If you have an electric tool, you can use an abrasive disc instead of a hammer and chisel to make a groove, and then split the brick with a sharp blow with a hammer and a wide chisel.
Remove the solution with a crowbar, if you can find one. If not, do it with a chisel. The crowbar is also good in that it allows you to work with two hands, and this speeds up the work. Remove the required brick and clean the place from the remains of the mortar.
Choose a suitable brick or chunk off part of it. Moisten the hole and apply a thick layer of mortar. Lay the brick on top of the falcon or mortar board with the edge 15mm above the row where the brick will be. Drive a brick into the socket and trim away any remaining mortar.
Remove all mortar around damaged bricks and chisel damaged or cracked bricks with a chisel. If the damaged section of the wall consists of several bricks, remove first the upper ones, then the lower ones.
Use a brush to clean the remaining mortar and brick debris. Moisten the damaged section of the wall as well as the new bricks with water and lay them in the same way as if you were laying a new wall.Apply the mortar to the side faces of the bricks and place them in the mortar, remembering to make a groove in it. When the mortar has set, sew the seams using the same method as used for the rest of the wall seams.. Soak the solution wet for three to four days.
A long, wide vertical crack in a low non-load-bearing wall can be repaired more quickly by pouring grout into the crack instead of filling it with thick mortar. Clean the crack first. Prepare the solution in a bucket, adding enough water to pour the solution easily through the wide funnel. Do not add more water than is required - the more water in the solution, the more it will shrink as it cures. Moisten the bricks around the crack with a wet brush. Then seal the bottom of the crack with 300-500 mm long durable adhesive tape. Pour the mortar through the funnel into the sealed crack (below). Use a stick to push through the solution if necessary. Fill the next area with the solution in the same way. And so on to the top of the wall, but do not try to fill in areas longer than a meter.
As long as the mortar in the crack is wet, it must be held in place. Press the board to the tape until the solution hardens (for two to three hours). Install such formwork immediately after pouring if the tape does not adhere well, for example, to damp bricks. If the tape holds well, then the board can be installed after pouring about a meter of the crack.
Video (click to play).
Attention! This method should not be used when repairing a load-bearing or high wall. Even a narrow crack in such a wall can be a sign of structural fragility, and you should definitely consult a professional.
