DIY ford fiesta starter repair

In detail: do-it-yourself ford fiesta starter repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

If the starter does not crank, then first of all check if the traction relay terminal 50 has the voltage required for retraction - at least 8V. If the specified voltage is supplied, then it is necessary to check the lines that refer to the starter's electrical circuit according to the wiring diagram. Whether the starter will retract with full battery voltage can be checked as follows:

- do not turn on any gear, turn on the ignition;
- bridge the terminals 30 and 50 on the starter with a wire (cross-section at least 4 mm 2), see also wiring diagram Electrical equipment - starter, generator, battery (BD 111 HFM / PMS) .

If at the same time the starter starts normally, then the fault lies in the wires going to the starter. In this case, check the removed starter.

Test condition: the connections must be tightened until they fail and they must not be oxidized.

27.09.2017 381

Hello. I am glad to welcome everyone to our site dedicated to Ford cars. Today, dear readers, I will tell you about how to revise a starter on a Ford Fiesta Mark 6 at home. You will learn how to disassemble the 6th Fiesta starter and clean, repair and lubricate it.

Most of the "fiestovodov" are familiar with the problem when, after several years of operation, the car does not start from the first time. The key turns, the starter hums, but the engine does not start. The launch occurs, as a rule, on the second or third attempt. Over time, the problem gets worse and it is possible to start the car only after the fourth or fifth attempt. Many people wonder what the problem is and complain about anything: candles, bad gasoline or engine problems. However, very often the reason lies in the banal pollution of the starter or in problems with the bendix. The solution to this problem will be covered in this article. We will tell you how to disassemble the starter on the Fiesta and make its maintenance, that is, revision.

Video (click to play).

Observation pit or lift (who is rich in what);
Keys for: 13 (with ratchet), 7, 10;
TORX # 25;
WD-40 fluid or carburetor cleaner and lubricant.

We drive into the overpass or lift the car on a lift, or jack it up, if there is neither one nor the other.
Next, we throw off the negative terminal from the battery.
Now you need to remove the starter. We unscrew the terminal from the solenoid relay, for this it is necessary to unscrew two nuts at “13” and 10 (the first goes to the battery, the second is to control the retractor relay).

To remove the starter itself, you must unscrew the three mounting bolts (two long and one short).
When the starter is dismantled, we inspect and assess its condition. In this case, the problem was a lack of lubrication and heavy contamination, as a result of which the movement of the bendix was difficult.

Dismantling the starter. Unscrew the nut with the key on “13”, and then TORX # 25 - three bolts that secure the retractor relay. It is also necessary to unscrew the two long bolts on “7”, with which the starter and the bendix body are attached to each other.

Note 1! If you are not going to change the brushes, do not unscrew the cap located on the back of the starter cover. This will seriously complicate your job!

Note 2! At the base of the “nose” of the starter, where the shaft with the bendix is located, there is a needle bearing, not a bushing, so check the condition of the plastic cage, grease, and the bearings themselves. Be careful, the bearing may crumble during disassembly!

In order to properly rinse and clean the bendix shaft, it is necessary to separate it, for this it is necessary to remove the cage together with the ring at the end of the shaft.This is done in the following way, we rest with the clip in the extended vice, then lightly hit from the side of the gearbox.

Then everything happens in random order, we fill everything with liquid for cleaning the carburetor or "VD-shkoy" and rinse everything properly. During flushing, be careful not to allow flushing liquid to penetrate into the bearing.

After completing the flushing, we assess the condition of all parts, change if necessary. Then we lubricate and assemble everything in reverse order. I recommend lubricating the bearings with lithium or graphite grease, and the planetary gearbox with Litol or an alternative of the SHRUS type, etc.

Something like this! After that, it is recommended to check the assembled starter, then install it in the place of further service. I have everything, thank you for your attention! Write in the comments what signs of a starter malfunction you had before you started repairing it.

You can also become our partner

Attention. ALWAYS disconnect the battery. During operation, the risk of short circuits is very high. Don't put yourself in danger of being left without hands and eyes.

Part numbers:

Bosch 1 006 209 804 Bendix
Bosch 2 339 304 015 Solenoid relay
Cargo 138763 Relay, retractor
Unipoint SNLS221A Relay, starter retractor
Magneti marelli AME 0539 Solenoid coil
Solenoid relay ZM 2494 12V (Starter Valeo!) Attention! Requires improvement!

On the left (in the direction of travel and so on) there are 3 mounting bolts. The third one is not visible in the photo - it is under the sticker on the harness

But first you need to unscrew the starter power supply. Power is on the right side of the solenoid relay

You need to unscrew one large nut (in the photo it is rusty), a key for 13 and one small, a key for 10
The wire harness can be moved

Now we unscrew the starter itself and take it out. This may require disconnecting the oil sensor and crankshaft connectors.

The work under the car is finished, you can turn on the battery and turn on the radio for those who are bored, but I highly recommend not turning on anything until everything is assembled. Why all these unnecessary risks?

Further, it is convenient to use a vice. We clamp the retractor and there.
Here is the attention. We'll need a key! it is the TORX25 key. A screwdriver can play a cruel joke.

In the photo, the screws are difficult to move, but they can be unscrewed simply. It is for pulling off that the key is needed. Use a quality tool, since the slots are very easy to cut off and then the screws are drilled out for a long time.

We took off the pull-up and throw it aside, we'll get to it at the end

Now we clamp the starter itself and unscrew two long bolts from behind it

And the starter cap in hand

Our attention is presented to the fork and the old bendix

What to do with them? Yes, nafig take it off and throw it away. The fork will still come in handy, but we already bought the bendix, right?

In order not to waste time on trifles and not stop there, it takes out the shaft at the same time.

We see here a planetary gearbox. It must be disassembled and rinsed thoroughly. Kerosene helps me in this difficult matter.

We disassemble everything and wash it thoroughly to make it shine.

Then I took the good old lithol and lubricated the mechanism completely.

Pay attention to the outer gear. It is plastic (made of hard plastic). Apparently its additional purpose is to break when jammed, so as not to start a fire.
Now we recall the sequence of operations and put everything back together.

We have not forgotten that it is necessary to wash not only the gear, but everything, everything in general. Housings, plug.

We take out a new bendix from the bag. So shiny and beautiful.

We put on the shaft

And don't forget about our previously washed plug and washed lids.

Again in a vice

We switch the key to tightening and start assembly in the reverse order.

Remembering the thrown out retractor

Halve with a slight movement of the hand (do not lose the spring.)

Also wash everything clean. It is not necessary to lubricate here, just as it is not necessary to lubricate the shaft with the bendix.
These parts must be clean and dry.

We finally assemble the starter

It remains only to screw it onto the car.

ATTENTION.If you suddenly listen to bad advice to turn on music, then the first thing to do is disconnect the battery. And if you didn’t listen, then check again to make sure it is disabled!

At the 58th thousand run, there was a problem with starting the engine. The starter was scrolling with no load, i.e. the bendix did not engage with the flywheel crown. The problem is in principle well known to the owners of fiestas and fusion, there was a conversation on this forum - https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3298/forum/topic/6416.htm?30. She has two solutions: replace the starter under warranty or clean it on her own. Since my warranty expired a week before the first signs of malfunction appeared, I had to clean it myself.

Tool: spanners 13 and 7, socket heads 13 and 10, slotted screwdriver, inspection hole or a good jack.

1. Remove the crankcase cover (if any).
2. Using a 13 socket head, unscrew the two lower bolts securing the starter to the motor.

3. Using a 13 socket head, unscrew the upper bolt securing the starter to the motor. In my opinion, it is more convenient to unscrew from under the hood, and not from below.

4. The wires for the starter power supply hang directly on its body, and they are screwed to the solenoid relay (side-right-top).

5. To disconnect the wires, with socket heads for 13 and 10, unscrew the nuts on the solenoid relay securing the earth and "+" wires.

6. Remove the starter.
7. Assess the extent of pollution outside.

8. Disassemble the starter. To do this, use a 7 spanner wrench to unscrew the two pins tightening the body.

9. Assess the extent of pollution inside. On this starter, the bendix moved along the guide gear only with a screwdriver and did not return to its original position without assistance.

10. Thoroughly clean all dirt (I used WD-40). To achieve that everything that needs to be easily spun, spun and ran. Lubricate bearings and gears.
11. Assemble the starter.

12. Install the starter on the vehicle.

Thank you very much for your helpful advice!

Mako, have you received any royalties?

2% D0% B5% D1% 80 /

I could not, unfortunately, overpower the removal of the starter tonight: `(
it seems that the idea without a viewing hole (and with the help of a jack) turned out to be insane.
In general, I found and unscrewed only two bolts (1), while to unscrew one of them, it was necessary to turn the plate (2) on one side.

on the weekend I agreed with the pit, maybe I’ll still find a 3 bolt and overcome the starter (the car began to start very badly, from the fifth time it grabs the engine).

Husband two weeks ago cleaned the starter at the dacha. with a standard jack.
says that only one bolt should be unscrewed from below, and the top two are better from above.

You also need good lighting and the clamps at the starter can only be unscrewed from below.
true engine 1.4

I have a problem like this. Ford Fiesta 2008. The starter is idling,
the flywheel does not cling. To begin with, we bought a used starter worker, we drove through the whole spring and
summer no problem. In the fall, the same thing began.

A new bendix (Bosh 1000r) was installed in the native starter
the service started up 20 times in a row without problems, I bought a new retractor relay
(1000r) changed it myself, started up 3 times and again the same ass. Went to the garage
disassembled the entire starter to the screw, rinsed where the grease was, changed the grease,

I collected everything - it started for a week, even
the sound became different. A week has passed again the same ass - then it engages the flywheel
it does not catch. When I took off the starter, I always put my hand to the flywheel, to the touch
no chips. I tried to push it from place to meter at speed, so that the flywheel was a bit
turn, no reaction, another meter - does not help. I also found a starter relay
change the fuse block, there are three identical relays changed all three
in places - did not help. The battery is normal (I charged it, put another one). CHEEEEEEEE
MAKE. I WILL NOT ATTEND MY MIND. And yet, when there is a bit on the bibik
you go, warm up, then there are no problems with the start-up, there is no start from the floor butting.

Maybe someone had something similar,
write.

There are many reasons for a malfunctioning starter motor.The traction relay or carbon brushes can seize or be heavily worn. The armature shaft can stick in the bearings

SEQUENCE OF WORKS

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the storage battery.

2. Unscrew the nut, disconnect the main supply wire from the starter and remove the control wire from the traction relay.

On a diesel engine, remove the starter support bolt (at the back of the starter housing).

Rice. 15.13. The location of the lower starter mounting bolt

3. Remove the three bolts securing the starter to the clutch crater and remove the starter (Fig. 15.13).

Maybe someone had something similar,
write.

You will need: spanner wrenches for 13 and 7, socket heads for 13 and 10, a slotted screwdriver, a viewing hole or a jack.

1. If there is, remove the crankcase protection.

2. Unscrew the two lower bolts of the starter to the motor with a socket head of 13:

3. The upper bolt of fastening the starter to the motor is also unscrewed with a socket head 13:

4. The wires for the starter power supply are located directly on its body:

5. To disconnect these wires, it is necessary to unscrew the nuts on the solenoid relay, which secure the ground and “+” wires, with socket heads 13 and 10:

7. Dismantle the starter, to do this, unscrew the two pins retracting the body with a 7-ring spanner:

8. Thoroughly clean the dirt (you can use WD-40). Everything should turn easily, bearings and gears should be lubricated.

He took off the Ford Fusion engine protection. I unscrewed two bolts on "10" fastening the starter, but it cannot be removed. Where else is the mounting bolt? Thank you.

Info below for gasoline engines. I've been faced with the removal of the starter on my Fusion 1.4 diesel. To remove the starter, you have to dig from the hole and under the hood. And so, we easily unscrew the two lower bolts using a hole, but the upper bolt is only accessible under the hood. We unscrew the battery, the casing from it and with the head 13 (like) with an extension cord unscrews the upper bolt, having first felt it in the blind with your finger. Good luck to all diesel operators.

On Ford Fusion, as on other cars, there should be 3 starter mounting bolts.

not visible in this photo because the sticker on the harness interferes.

But first you need to take the socket wrenches "10", "13", and also disconnect the wire from the "minus" terminal of the battery, then unscrew the starter power supply. Power is located on the right side of the solenoid relay.

You will need to unscrew one large nut (rusty in the photo), a key for "13" and one small, a key for "10".

Then we unscrew the starter itself and take it out. This may require disconnecting the oil sensor and crankshaft connectors.

Message # 1 KimIV »23 Mar 2016, 10:00

The reason for the need to service the starter is jamming of the bendix on the screw splines of the shaft at subzero outside temperatures (-25. -30), which does not allow the engine to start.The clutch disc wear products are stuffed into the splines and this leads to such a tight fit of the bendix that the force of the retractor relay becomes not enough to move the bendix and bring its gear into engagement with the flywheel ring.

External manifestation of a malfunction. We turn the ignition key to the “Start” position, click under the hood and then silence. The starter motor does not turn. Any motorist in such a situation will say: “Charge the battery and tighten the terminals!”. But in this situation, the terminals are in order, cleaned, stretched out and the battery is freshly charged. How to distinguish one from the other? When the battery is dead, turning the ignition key to the "Start" position leads to the extinguishing of the device or to a significant decrease in the brightness of the light bulbs / LEDs. And with a jammed bendix, the tidy continues to glow brightly. For me, this manifested itself in the 5th winter of car operation and 55 thousand km mileage.

How do you start the engine? You won't take off the starter in cold weather. In general, it's easy. I came to this method by thinking and logical calculations. You need to knock on the starter body with something like a hammer, you can just use a wrench. Two or three light blows led to the fact that the retractor relay could already move the bendix. It is good to do such tapping with an assistant, that is, combine it with turning the ignition key to the “Start” position. But last winter I did one and always managed to start the machine.

It was theory and offtopic, now practice. I uncouple the mass from the battery.

Then all the work from below, except for unscrewing the upper starter bolt closest to the passenger compartment. But these bolts are the last thing, first you need to unhook the starter power wires. The wires are framed with a block, which is removed after unscrewing two nuts at 10 and 13. Access to these nuts is finally lousy. From above, it is completely blocked off by the intake manifold. The oil filter interferes with the bottom. The people on the forum () expressed the opinion that combining the maintenance of the starter with the next MOT (oil and filter change) will greatly facilitate the removal of the starter. But I'm not looking for easy ways, I decided to suffer. It took a lot of time to cut the block in half. From the forum, I already knew that there are 3 latches. Two before my eyes. Where is the third?

It took about three hours to find her, with two intermediate teas. For some reason it seemed to me that the third latch should be on the opposite two other sides, that is, closer to the starter housing. Therefore, I stubbornly skimmed there. But it turned out that the block does not split in half, but has a lid, like a chest. This lid flips down and hangs on plastic snot. Why open this lid at all? Yes, why not. The forum was confused, supposedly easier access to the pad mounting nuts. Yes, the nuts are visible, but access is not facilitated. In general, it was possible not to open the block, but to unscrew the nuts as is. You can only crawl to the nuts with a head with a 7-10 cm extension and a short knob. He unscrewed, removed the block and took it forward towards the carlson. Now the starter mounting bolts. The two front ones are box-type (key) for 13. The rear one is open-end for 13.

Removing the starter, namely, its extension to the right (in the direction of the car), interferes with the connector. It is interfered with by the fact that the connector is attached to the motor. There is not much sense in disconnecting the connector, you just need to disconnect its body from the mushroom-shaped chip. This is done by shifting the connector towards the arrow in the photo.

As a result, the connector jumps off the chip that secures it to the engine and the connector can be swung aside along with the wires. Everything, the starter is removed, you can disassemble. But this is after lunch. Tired as devil, half a day hands up, and head thrown back, eyes full of dust, sand.

I went home, dined on a mushroom pickle made of stumps (birch bark) and proceeded to disassemble the starter in order to rinse, clean, and lubricate. First, there are two retractor mounting bolts, internal TORX 20. For some reason, 25 is mentioned on the forum.

Then two long bolts securing the front (from the side of the bendix) starter cover. The key is a regular hexagon 7.I unscrewed it with a head, so it is more likely NOT to break the edges.

The starter housing was wiped from the inside with a clean cotton rag. Between the magnets, the magnets themselves, a little bit of brushes. The planetary car, a cover with a needle bearing and a bendix, or rather not the bendix itself, but the shaft and the splines on which it sits, was washed with kerosene.

While he was drinking tea, the details flowed around a little on a piece of paper. Then he wiped it off with a rag and started assembling. All bearings and planetary gear were lubricated with lithol. The spline shaft with bendix was left dry and clean. By the way, I haven’t photographed the main culprits of all this idiot. Bendix on the splines of the shaft went really tight. It’s very tight. The hand could only be moved with effort. And in the winter, apparently, it was still gripping with frost, so it got wedged. After flushing the slots, the bendix began to move freely, literally under its own weight. You tilt the shaft to the left / right, the bendix easily slides towards the tilt. Collected everything in reverse order. In place, the starter finally installed instantly.

It took an hour and a half to disassemble, clean, lubricate, assemble and install back. So, it turns out, from forums and harm also happens. If I had not been burdened with forum knowledge and had not spent 3 hours opening a useless box, I would have done it before lunch. But I had to acquire new knowledge and enrich myself with personal experience.

Ford Fiesta Car Club

The article is written for those who repair a car themselves and do not have the financial ability or desire to buy a new starter. Perhaps specialized starter repair shops solve the problem in a similar way, but they will never give you information, much less write on the forum, because this is their bread. And the absence of any specific information on Valeo repair for Ford over the years is a clear confirmation of this.

Part two: installing a solenoid relay

P.S. I was very pleased (now it's not so scary to stall in traffic

) and most importantly did not have to buy another starter.
If anyone needs a new bendix for Ford, then the ad can be found on OLX (I will not advertise), but Valeo has a very reliable bendix. Three years ago, when my starter began to whistle without engaging, I just held the bendix in the solvent for a day. All the old grease came out of there, along with friction dust from the clutch, which tightly hammered the roller mechanism of the bendix. Then I boiled the Bendix in grease and since then I have driven over 50,000 km.

PS final: For those who are not in the subject of spare parts on Valeo: specifically on Ford, look at the original retracting serial number (516608) and try to find it on sale by the code. If all the components were freely sold, then this kind of article would not be written
... 0g-winner /

A bit of history.
Until 2007, a Bosh starter was installed on Fords, but due to certain design flaws (detailed on the Internet), they often failed even during the warranty and the officials changed them to a Valeo starter. Since 2008, a Valeo starter has been installed on all new cars. It has a slightly different, more technological design. Differs in greater durability before failure than Bosh, but unlike Bosh (question to Valeo), retractor relays and bendixes are not sold for free sale. Now all these "Refurbished" Boshs are being sold, once removed under warranty and restored at the factory.

He took off the Ford Fusion engine protection. I unscrewed two bolts on "10" fastening the starter, but it cannot be removed. Where else is the mounting bolt? Thank you.

On Ford Fusion, as on other cars, there should be 3 starter mounting bolts.

not visible in this photo because the sticker on the harness interferes.

You will need to unscrew one large nut (rusty in the photo), a key for "13" and one small, a key for "10".

Then we unscrew the starter itself and take it out. This may require disconnecting the oil sensor and crankshaft connectors.

Replacing the starter with a Ford Fiesta is done only if it is not possible to repair the starter on a Ford Fiesta or it will cost more than replacing it with a new one.

First, we will make a diagnosis starter Ford Fiesta, without removal. If the diagnostics show a problem in the starter, we remove the starter and put it on a special stand for diagnostics.

After taking readings, the master will produce disassembly and troubleshooting... After determining the cost of repairing a Ford Fiesta starter, a decision is made on what is best to do: repair and replace the starter with a new one.

Service station on Grazhdanka - 603-55-05, from 10 to 20, no days off.
Service station in Kupchino - 245-33-15, from 10 to 20, no days off.
WhatAapp / Viber: 8-911-766-42-33

ATTENTION. We do not repair starters removed from a vehicle. We make diagnostics on our own, make a diagnosis and give a guarantee that the problem is in the starter and that we will solve it.

When to replace or repair a starter:
- the car does not start, the starter does not show signs of life;
- when trying to start the car, noise is heard, the car will not start;
- after starting the engine, the starter is not disconnected;

Replacement warranty - 360 days.
Repair warranty - 180 days.

If necessary, we can help with the evacuation of the car to our service stations.

Published on Jun 18, 2017
Elimination of the cause of unstable operation of the starter retractor.
————————————————
Ford Fusion engine starter repair.
Ford Fusion startersrarter repair

the retractor was unscrewed, the T- bit.

Was the starter itself filmed on a lift? Or is it possible on the ground

It is possible on the ground, but slightly raise it in front of the car, otherwise there is not enough space.

A huge selection of spare parts allows you to repair almost any model on the same day of contact, without resorting to a long-term order. It is possible to purchase not only new, but also remanufactured units, in this case, Mazda starters and others will cost a little cheaper. For wholesale customers (car services interested in promptly providing their customers with consistently high-quality services) special conditions and discounts apply. In the workshops of the Exin group of companies, all owners of Ford cars of any model can carry out free diagnostics, receive recommendations from a master and, of course, eliminate starter or alternator malfunctions.

Starter repair price - from 500 rubles

Our technicians will diagnose a starter or generator using modern equipment, and assessing the degree of malfunction, they will offer you the best solution for restoring operability.

Some malfunctions (burned out winding or solenoid relay, cracked housing, etc.) often make the cost of repairing Ford starters unreasonably high. In this case, it is worth considering buying an assembled starter - remanufactured or new, for both options the warranty period is one year.

Minor repairs (replacement of the bendix, bearings, current-collecting brushes) will not keep you waiting long, but if desired, the customer can arrange delivery (for example, to the car service where the car is located).

Thanks to cooperation with leading transport companies, Exin services are available in any city in Russia and the CIS. Distance is not an obstacle to forming partnerships.

If you wish buy starter Ford new or refurbished - in our store you will find what you are looking for! Huge selection of units in stock and on order, flexible system of discounts and delivery to the nearest workshop. Our advantages are obvious!

Ford Fusion does not turn the starter in the cold