In detail: do-it-yourself gas 3309 starter repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Gas 3307-3309 starter parameters
The starter does not require any special maintenance. The reliability of nuts, bolts and connectors of electrical contacts is periodically checked and the outer surfaces of the starter are wiped.
Starter technical data,
minimum collector diameter
Diameter of bushings and bearings in covers, mm:
Tightening torque for screws and nuts, Nm:
brush holder screws …………… 3.2 ± 0.5
Bearings and moving parts are lubricated with the following lubricants:
- bearing bushings - Ехtra НD 20 oil;
- shaft groove, projection on the bendix bushing, lever axis - with LIS 2 grease;
- relay core - with a thin layer of LIS 3 grease.
The rotor, the end gap of which changes after the groove in the range from 0.2 to 0.5 mm, is adjusted with washers 0.2 mm thick. The rotor extends towards the manifold and the gap between the manifold cover and the lock washer is checked with feelers. The screws and nuts are tightened. For the tightening torque, refer to the starter technical data below.
starter check is carried out according to the following parameters
- counter of the number of revolutions up to 1200 rpm;
- ammeter with a measuring range up to 100 A, accuracy class 1.5;
- ammeter with a measurement range of up to 1500 A, accuracy class 1.5;
- a voltmeter with a measurement range up to ZOV, accuracy class 1.5;
- a tool for connecting a starter I to a power source;
- a power source corresponding to the tested starter.
A starter on the Volga is a very reliable thing, and some kind of trouble does not happen often with it. As a rule, during operation, it does not require any attention to itself at all, but we all know that anything can be broken, even if, as in the known case, it is pure hydraulics.
So, the starter is based on a DC motor. At the front end of its shaft there is a sliding sleeve and a gear, which, at the moment of starting, meshes with the teeth of the engine flywheel. The movement of the clutch is provided by a solenoid relay located on the starter housing. The relay rod at the moment of starting moves and pulls the plug, which pushes the clutch with the gear to the position of engagement with the flywheel.
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The traction relay coil has two windings.
- Retracting. It is connected when the key is moved to the "start" position. It provides movement of the relay rod. After the first winding is triggered, the rod moves and shifts the contact "penny", closing the contacts, including the starter motor and the second, holding the winding.
- Retaining. It is needed in order to keep the stem retracted until the key is in the "start" position.
Accordingly, all malfunctions are reduced either to problems with the retractor, or with the electric motor itself, or with the clutch.
As a rule, the starter refuses to start the car at the most inopportune moment and completely unexpectedly. That is, everything was fine yesterday, but today we turn the key to the "start" position, but it does not turn ... or turns it somehow not as it should, or makes extraneous sounds. In any case, there is no need to wait for a miracle, it will not pass by itself. Let's try to find and fix the problem.
As a rule, undervoltage in the on-board network is to blame. So start by checking battery charge.
If everything is normal with the battery, and the voltage on it is 12 V or more, check the condition of the terminals. The most common cause is poor contact. Clean the terminals well from oxides, lubricate them with grease (lithol, grease, etc.) and fix well. Pulling the terminals too much is not worth it, since this will deform the battery terminals made of lead, and the wire terminals themselves, which are now being made from what is generally not clear.
Check body and engine for earth.To do this, simply select the resistance measurement mode on the multimeter and measure it between the negative terminal of the battery and the motor, and then between the terminal and some unpainted bolt on the body. Resistance should be close to zero. If not, inspect the negative lead to the engine and check the integrity of the "pigtail" connecting the engine and body. It is attached to the clutch bell.
- in the wiring;
- in the retractor;
- directly in the starter motor.
Let's start looking for a problem simple.
- Check the anti-theft systems. Perhaps they are joking at you.
- Perhaps you have a trite discharged battery.
- If there is a fuse for the starter circuit, check it for continuity.
- Let's check if the +12 V voltage appears at the control contact of the starter (this is a thin screw on the solenoid relay). If there is no voltage, then check the additional starter relay and the ignition switch.
- Ask an assistant to turn the key to the "start" position and listen. Does the starter make any sounds at the same time. Perhaps your solenoid relay stem wedges. It works, a click indicates this, but its movement is limited.
If the voltage comes to the control contact of the retractor relay, the mass is not broken, but the starter refuses to cooperate with you and does not twist, we do the following.
- Be sure to remove the car from the gear and put it on the handbrake;
- We translate the key to the "ignition" position;
- We take a 17 wrench and bridge the power leads of the retractor with it.
If the starter spins briskly at the same time, then our problem is in the retractor relay itself. The easiest way is to simply replace it with a new one, but you can try to fix it.
Remove the starter and unscrew 3 screws (2 screws for ZMZ 406), retractor fastening. We unscrew the screws securing the contact group and study the state of the contact "nickle" and the contact pads of the bolts. Most likely, we will find strong burning on them. We clean the contacts and make their surface absolutely smooth and flat. We carry out a similar operation with a nickel. A heavily eaten penny can simply be turned over, if this has not yet been done before you.
Also, with a tester, we will check if there is a short circuit of the relay windings to the case and if there are any breaks in them. If everything is normal, put everything in the reverse order and try to start.
If the problem is not in the retractor, check the starter motor itself.
We remove it from the car and disassemble it. There is nothing particularly difficult here.
- Unscrew and remove the retractor.
- Remove the retractor rod.
- Remove the starter rear cover by unscrewing the two screws securing it and removing the retaining half ring in the center.
- Slide the motor stator together with the housing off the studs.
Now you need to carefully inspect the condition of the collector contact pads. If they are badly worn, you can try sanding them to a level surface.
We look at the wear of the brushes. We change them if necessary.
We check with a multimeter whether there are any short circuits of the windings on the case, and the absence of internal short circuits and breaks in the windings. If any, we carry the starter for repair or replace it with a new one. You can't do anything on your own.
Crackling or grinding noise when starting the engine
This sound occurs when the starter gear is not fully engaged with the flywheel rim teeth. There can be several reasons, and most of them can be easily eliminated.
- Loose starter to clutch bell. It happens. Just try to jiggle the starter by hand, if it does not fit tightly, tighten the nuts of its fastening to the required torque and try to start the engine. The scary sounds will most likely disappear.
- Insufficient movement of the starter sliding clutch. The gear just doesn't snap into place. Usually a shaft overgrown with mud is to blame. To restore performance, remove the starter from the car. Next, clean the shaft and lubricate it with good grease. Check the movement of the gear, there should be no binding.
- The fork moving the sliding clutch may be to blame. It happens that it breaks or deforms, although rarely. In both cases, the plug must be replaced.
- Flywheel crown eaten up. You can easily see this problem by removing the starter and simply looking into the hole in the clutch bell. There are several solutions to the problem: replacing the flywheel, replacing the crown (the old one is knocked down, and the new one is heated and hot pressed onto the flywheel), you can try to turn the old crown over (we heat the crown and press it off the flywheel, reheat it and press it with the back side).
The fastening of the retractor to the starter housing is loose. The result is incomplete gear movement. Tighten the fasteners.
A metallic ringing from the clutch bell when the engine is running and an occasional grinding noise when starting
Most likely, by removing the starter, you will find it. that his "beak" was chipped off. This happens for various reasons. The starter may have been poorly pulled to the bell or pulled skewed, there may be a casting defect, or there may have been excessive gear movement. It makes sense to weld the "beak" with argon in place only in the case of free access to the welding machine, in all other situations, it is better to replace it. But since you are unlikely to be able to find the "beak" separately, you will most likely have to change the starter assembly.
As a rule, this behavior indicates that you need to get to know the Bendix better.
For those who do not fully understand what it is, let us explain.
Bendix is nothing more than a freewheel. Its meaning is that when the starter rotates, it rigidly connects the drive gear with the electric motor shaft, and at the moment when the engine starts and its speed increases, it begins to slip, preventing the internal combustion engine from rotating the starter motor. A similar thing is present in the rear wheel of a bicycle, it makes a characteristic chirping sound when coasting. That is, it is not at all the drive gear itself, but exactly the thing to which this gear is attached.
This part is removed quite simply, but you will get very dirty. Although, if you removed the starter, you should not worry anymore.
- We press the thrust bushing off the axle.
- Pry on with a screwdriver and remove the snap ring.
- Remove the bendix assembly with the gear.
- We change to a new one and put everything in the reverse order.