We will show you how to repair a starter in a Gazelle with your own hands. The starter was produced in Belarus. After watching the video, you will learn how to disassemble, repair and diagnose starter malfunctions. Most often, the problem is in the brush assembly, so we start disassembling from it. And the symptoms of a malfunction indicate this, since the retractors clink, but there is no response from the starter. We remove the back cover and look at the condition of the brushes, in our case they are in working order, but due to the ingress of dirt, water, one brush “did not come out”, it is necessary to clean and lubricate everything.
Disassemble the starter on your own only if you understand the operation of its mechanisms, you are sure that then you will be able to assemble everything correctly. It is not difficult to repair it, if you have the proper experience, you can handle it, we recommend watching the video in full, including disassembly, maintenance and assembly. Lubricate where needed with clean engine oil and a disposable syringe.
Remove the starter (see Removing the starter from the engine).
Using the "13" key, unscrew the nut securing the power wire to the traction relay and disconnect the wire tip.
... or three screws (for the ZMZ-402 engine).
... and remove the core with the stem.
We unscrew the two screws securing the cover.
Prying off with a screwdriver, remove the retaining half-ring.
Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the two fastening nuts ...
We move the body off the studs.
Use the "10" wrench to unscrew the nut ...
… And use a screwdriver to turn off the lever axis.
We remove the insulating tubes from the studs.
We take out the anchor from the front cover.
Leaning the anchor axis on a wooden block, knock down the thrust sleeve through the "13" spanner key.
Prying off with a screwdriver, remove the snap ring.
We remove the thrust sleeve from the anchor, ...
... complete drive ("bendix") and intermediate support.
We use an ohmmeter to check that the stator windings are not shorted to the housing.
Defects in the armature windings are determined visually - the places of short circuits or breakdowns to ground turn black.
The collector must be free of burn marks and strong wear.
Before assembling with compressed air, we remove coal dust from the body and the brush holder.
We assemble the starter in the reverse order, having lubricated the bushings and drive parts with a thin layer of CIATIM-201 grease or engine oil.
We put the thrust sleeve on the shaft so that the tapered groove faces the groove for the snap ring. Next, we put the spring ring in place, press the sleeve onto it with a hammer blow through the key "14" or press it with sliding pliers.
A car starter is a sophisticated electrical device that can be used to start the engine by simply turning the ignition key. Any of them is designed for hundreds of thousands of successful launches, and with proper care, it can last a long time, starting a car engine without problems in any conditions. The lack of timely diagnostics and replacement of worn parts can lead to such a situation that far from home or a car service, it will simply fail, delivering a huge number of problems to the car owner.
It is worth noting that although an independent starter repair is possible, its implementation requires experience and a set of elementary tools, which are simply not at hand in a long trip. Accordingly, repairing the starter motor may not be possible, which is almost guaranteed to immobilize the vehicle.But it is far from always impossible to start the engine due to a malfunction of the starter, and before undertaking its "repair", you should pay attention to other components - for example, a flywheel or a storage battery. In addition, it is impossible to repair a starter with your own hands if you do not know how it works.
At the heart of any starter is a powerful short-lived electric motor.
Despite the fact that there are several types of starters, their electrical part is the same, and the only differences are in the mechanisms for automatic decoupling from the flywheel. The friction damper may also differ. In addition to the classic design, the most widespread is a starter with a planetary gearbox - it is installed on diesel and powerful gasoline engines. Such designs have some advantages over classic options:
Of course, a more complex design makes it much more difficult to repair the device yourself.
A qualitative check of this unit is impossible without dismantling it. It is best to carry out work in a pit, which will provide the ability to move freely under the car. A standard set of wrenches will be required from the tools, and the presence of socket wrenches with a flexible extension will greatly simplify the task. Dismantling is carried out in several stages.
Carrying out periodic control of the brushes, you can timely notice a critical decrease in their height, which should not be less than 12 mm. To get to the brushes, unscrew the screw securing the contact wires and squeeze the spring - after that they can be freely removed. After measuring the length, a decision is made to install new ones or return the old ones to their place. As practice shows, if the starter is already dismantled, and new brushes are in stock, it is better to replace them. It should be understood that replacing the starter brushes is an operation that must be performed regularly, especially with frequent engine starts.
This is a more laborious process than removing the brushes. Initially, it is required to remove the washer from the axle and unscrew a pair of tie bolts. After disconnecting the casing of the device, you will have to remove the tubes of insulation of the screed bolts from it. Now you should evaluate the external condition of the collector and the windings. There should be no obvious black marks on them, as well as on the collector itself. If they are still there, then it is advisable to replace the collector, although it can be cleaned with fine-grained emery paper as a temporary measure.
To do this, you will have to get the anchor out of the case. To get to it, you must remove the washer from the axis of the anchor itself, strip the axis of the lever and knock it out - after that it will be possible to remove the anchor along with its drive. The clutch drive lever is removed and the free rotation of the gear is checked by hand: it should be completely free in one direction, and completely blocked in the opposite direction. Chips, and even more so chips should not be detected. If free rotation is difficult or impossible, and there are traces of wear on the teeth, the coupling together with the gear are replaced with new ones - it is unacceptable to operate such a device.
In the process of gradual disassembly of the starter, using an ohmmeter, the windings of the starter itself and the armature are tested for the presence of traces of short circuits. Checking the starter armature is mandatory, since then disassembling it for the sake of this is quite problematic. Reassembling the assembly should be done carefully and slowly. Before that, all surfaces are thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt, and plastic parts are necessarily lubricated with one of the special lubricants, for example, lithol. All metal parts, which are in excess in the starter, are treated with engine oil. How you can perform high-quality and self-diagnosis is shown in the video:
VIDEO
Since the bendix gear, working in tandem with the flywheel, has a huge load, they are the most common cause of failures when starting the engine. As a rule, the fact that the problem is with the gear is indicated by the periodic refusal of the starter to turn the crankshaft or its rotation too slow, not enough to start. Cracking or frequent clicks are often heard. To make sure that this is exactly the problem, a visual inspection of these nodes will help. If only the teeth on the flywheel are worn out, intermittent starting problems arise when the gear teeth fall into this pit and the starter turns idle.
A fairly common situation is such a moment - the starter clicks, but the crankshaft does not spin, or it occurs at an extremely low speed, clearly insufficient for starting. Before starting a starter repair with your own hands, you should definitely find out the reason for this behavior. There may be several of them:
seized motor shaft or bushing;
short circuit in the windings;
the stator touches the "+" of the rotor.
Unfortunately, it is impossible to visually diagnose any of the above reasons, and the starter will have to be removed. Before checking the starter, it should be thoroughly cleaned of accumulated dust and dirt. If problems are found with the shaft, tighten or replace it. In some cases, you can try to center it. Alignment will also help if the rotor touches the stator. A short circuit is easily identified by burnt contacts and a characteristic smell - if it is possible to replace the starter, it is better to do this, or give the damaged device to professionals.
A little less often, you can encounter such a situation when clicks or crackling in the starter are heard after starting the engine. Among the main reasons for this phenomenon are the following:
discharged battery, as a result of which the holding winding does not receive the proper level of power supply and cannot create a strong magnetic field to fix the armature;
open or short circuit in the holding winding.
To confirm or refute these versions, a starter test with a multimeter is required. If the test is negative, a possible cause may be burnt-out pins. The relay clicks, but there is no contact between the motor and the battery. This problem is characterized by periodicity - contact may occasionally appear.
To protect yourself from major repairs to the starter or its complete replacement, you should be more attentive to the device that is already working. It rarely happens that it suddenly fails. This is usually preceded by several signs. An attentive and experienced driver knows not only how to check a removed starter, for example, on a battery, but can also accurately determine when a breakdown is approaching in order to promptly and at minimal cost to eliminate an impending problem. For example, timely replacement of the starter bushings will help to avoid the need to replace the starter itself in the future.
Along with timely diagnostics and repairs, you need to follow the basic rules for the safe operation of the starter:
it is not allowed to use it to move a car over short distances;
attempts between unsuccessful starts of the motor should alternate with 30-second pauses, and the time of continuous operation of the device should not exceed 10-15 seconds.
Failure to comply with these rules and banal carelessness during the operation of the car can lead to the need for replacement, which will cost a fairly large amount, depending on the installed modification of this device.
A starter on the Volga is a very reliable thing, and some kind of trouble does not happen often. As a rule, during operation, it does not require any attention to itself at all, but you and I know that anything can be broken, even if, as in a known case, it is pure hydraulics.
So, at the heart of the starter is a DC motor. At the front end of its shaft there is a sliding sleeve and a gear, which, at the moment of starting, meshes with the teeth of the engine flywheel. The movement of the clutch is provided by a solenoid relay located on the starter housing. The relay rod at the moment of starting moves and pulls the plug, which pushes the clutch with the gear to the position of engagement with the flywheel.
The traction relay coil has two windings.
Retracting. It is connected when the key is moved to the "start" position. It provides movement of the relay rod. After the first winding is triggered, the rod moves and shifts the contact "penny", closing the contacts, including the starter motor and the second, holding the winding.
Retaining. It is needed in order to keep the stem retracted until the key is in the "start" position.
Accordingly, all malfunctions are reduced either to problems with the retractor, or with the electric motor itself, or with the clutch.
As a rule, the starter refuses to start the car at the most inopportune moment and completely unexpectedly. That is, everything was fine yesterday, but today we turn the key to the "start" position, but it does not turn ... or turns it somehow not as it should, or makes extraneous sounds. In any case, there is no need to wait for a miracle, it will not pass by itself. Let's try to find and fix the problem.
As a rule, undervoltage in the on-board network is to blame. So start by checking battery charge .
If everything is normal with the battery, and the voltage on it is 12 V or more, check the condition of the terminals. The most common cause is poor contact. Clean the terminals well from oxides, lubricate them with grease (lithol, grease, etc.) and secure well. Pulling the terminals too much is not worth it, since this will deform the battery terminals made of lead, and the wire terminals themselves, which are now being made from what is generally not clear.
Check body and engine for earth. To do this, simply select the resistance measurement mode on the multimeter and measure it between the negative terminal of the battery and the motor, and then between the terminal and some unpainted bolt on the body. Resistance should be close to zero. If not, inspect the negative lead to the engine and check the integrity of the "pigtail" connecting the engine and body. It is attached to the clutch bell.
in the wiring;
in the retractor;
directly in the starter motor.
Let's start looking for a problem simple.
Check the anti-theft systems. Perhaps they are joking at you.
Perhaps you have a trite discharged battery.
If there is a fuse for the starter circuit, check it for continuity.
Let's check if the +12 V voltage appears at the control contact of the starter (this is a thin screw on the solenoid relay). If there is no voltage, then check the additional starter relay and the ignition switch.
Ask an assistant to turn the key to the "start" position and listen. Does the starter make any sounds at the same time. Perhaps your solenoid relay stem wedges. It works, a click indicates this, but its movement is limited.
If the voltage comes to the control contact of the retractor relay, the mass is not broken, but the starter refuses to cooperate with you and does not twist, we do the following.
Be sure to remove the car from the gear and put it on the handbrake;
We translate the key to the "ignition" position;
We take a 17 wrench and bridge the power leads of the retractor with it.
If the starter spins briskly at the same time, then our problem is in the retractor relay itself. The easiest way is to simply replace it with a new one, but you can try to fix it.
Remove the starter and unscrew 3 screws (2 screws for ZMZ 406), retractor fastening. We unscrew the screws securing the contact group and study the state of the contact "nickle" and the contact pads of the bolts. Most likely, we will find strong burning on them. We clean the contacts and make their surface absolutely smooth and flat. We carry out a similar operation with a nickel. A heavily eaten penny can simply be turned over, if this has not yet been done before you.
Also, with a tester, we will check if there is a short circuit of the relay windings to the case and if there are any breaks in them. If everything is normal, put everything in the reverse order and try to start.
If the problem is not in the retractor, check the starter motor itself.
We remove it from the car and disassemble it. There is nothing particularly difficult here.
Unscrew and remove the retractor.
Remove the retractor rod.
Remove the starter rear cover by unscrewing the two screws securing it and removing the retaining half ring in the center.
Slide the motor stator together with the housing off the studs.
Now you need to carefully inspect the condition of the collector contact pads. If they are badly worn, you can try sanding them to a level surface.
We look at the wear of the brushes. We change them if necessary.
We check with a multimeter whether there are any short circuits of the windings on the case, and the absence of internal short circuits and breaks in the windings. If any, we carry the starter for repair or replace it with a new one. You can't do anything on your own.
Crackling or grinding noise when starting the engine
This sound occurs when the starter gear is not fully engaged with the flywheel rim teeth. There can be several reasons, and most of them can be easily eliminated.
Loose starter to clutch bell. It happens. Just try to jiggle the starter by hand, if it does not fit tightly, tighten the nuts of its fastening to the required torque and try to start the engine. Most likely, the scary sounds will disappear.
Insufficient movement of the starter sliding clutch. The gear just doesn't snap into place. Usually a shaft overgrown with mud is to blame. To restore performance, remove the starter from the car. Next, clean the shaft and lubricate it with good grease. Check the movement of the gear, there should be no binding.
The fork moving the sliding clutch may be to blame. It happens that it breaks or deforms, although rarely. In both cases, the plug must be replaced.
Flywheel crown eaten up. You can easily see this problem by removing the starter and simply looking into the hole in the clutch bell. There are several solutions to the problem: replacing the flywheel, replacing the crown (the old one is knocked down, and the new one is heated and hot pressed onto the flywheel), you can try to turn the old crown over (we heat the crown and press it off the flywheel, reheat it and press it with the back side).
The fastening of the retractor to the starter housing is loose. The result is incomplete gear movement. Tighten the fasteners.
A metallic ringing from the clutch bell when the engine is running and an occasional grinding noise when starting
Most likely, by removing the starter, you will find it. that his "beak" was chipped off. This happens for various reasons. The starter may have been poorly pulled to the bell or pulled skewed, there may be a casting defect, or there may have been excessive gear movement. It makes sense to weld the "beak" with argon in place only in the case of free access to the welding machine, in all other situations, it is better to replace it.But since you are unlikely to be able to find the "beak" separately, you will most likely have to change the starter assembly.
As a rule, this behavior indicates that you need to get to know the Bendix better.
For those who do not fully understand what it is, let us explain.
Bendix is nothing more than a freewheel. Its meaning is that when the starter rotates, it rigidly connects the drive gear with the electric motor shaft, and at the moment when the engine starts and its speed increases, it begins to slip, preventing the internal combustion engine from rotating the starter motor. A similar thing is present in the rear wheel of a bicycle, it makes a characteristic chirping sound when coasting. That is, it is not at all the drive gear itself, but exactly the thing to which this gear is attached.
This part can be removed quite simply, but you will get very dirty. Although, if you removed the starter, you should not worry anymore.
We press the thrust bushing off the axle.
Pry on with a screwdriver and remove the snap ring.
Remove the bendix assembly with the gear.
We change to a new one and put everything in the reverse order.
car just a year. before that, there were no problems at all.
Year means nothing. Start by checking the voltage on the battery, then checking the voltage with the engine running and the dipped headlights on.
in general the car GAZelle business. the starter turns tightly on the hot one (to hell with it), and on the cold one all the rules. what is the problem? thanks in advance.
Duck, what kind of sweeps were the bushings, I also want to change tomorrow.
I experienced all the charm of such torments - the past winter and periodically all this year. while disassembling the starter once again, and without examining CAREFULLY in the light, bushings and metal plates on the anchor and on the starter housing, I found decent wear of the bushings (the biggest wear is in the bushing in the back cover), and noticeable abrasions of the plates inside the starter housing - clinging to anchor. that's the problem. and I was still wondering how it was that in the morning in winter I get started more or less and nothing, but how it comes to the end of the day - so it’s not a torture to start - and the speed of rotation is like that of a dead battery and the result is zero.
Wouldn't it be easier to put a normal gear starter?
The native starter (KZATE 6012.3708) began to show off inappropriately, namely, the retractor began to stick. Well, only the nickels stick, and the bendix is still normally thrown away. True, and against this background, he began to slowly die. Its slipping is periodically heard.
There is a complete absence of KZATE starters and their spare parts on sale, the same is dumb. And most importantly, no one is going to bring it!
I didn't have to think too much, because the price + further service revealed only one. It turned out to be the Cheboksary starter "ELECTROM" - 93.3708. According to a friend, this unit is a complete copy of Mitsushny. And in the future, it can be dressed in everything branded (only the nose - the body will remain)
Malfunction in Gaz Gazelle: from turning the key, the starter does not turn, but only derisively clicks the retractor. Express repair with a hammer on the starter did not give any results. The method of closing the contacts of the retractor to a straight line with a screwdriver gave only a barely living spark and the absence of any mechanical reaction. In my head, the only thought was enlightened that the brushes ordered to live a long time, the thought that, in fact, it was too early for this to replace it and it was decided to solve all the problems after opening the starter.
Work progress :
The first, of course, is better to unscrew the upper bolt so that the starter plays less, although it will not fall out by itself, the tube with the dipstick going into the oil pan will not allow it to do this.
2) The cover is removed by light blows of a hammer:
That's the kind of crap going on in the lid! Oxides, burnt spots on the 4 contact pads of the mass of brushes!
The contact plate of the brushes is also in a disgusting state!
Having pulled out the plus brushes, I remove the windings, the anchor and the mounting plate with brushes. I cleaned everything both on the plate and on the lid, treated it somehow with a liquid (a friend adjusted it to use it), which soaks oxides and rust and leaves an anti-corrosion film, not acid-based, so I applied:
I also began to delight a little
The starter is geared, so I added a little grease to the gear. On the anchor at the back there is a rolling bearing:
But the anther cannot do anything against water, so there is a thick emulsion in the bearing!
The bearing was accordingly also lubricated with fresh fuel oil.
Accordingly, what can be said about the starter. The mechanical part is in good condition. Electrical unsatisfactory! Everywhere there are cuffs-rubber bands in order to exclude water from entering the starter, there is even a drainage tube in the back cover, BUT it feels like all these rubber bands only help the water stay there! I expected more from a manufacturer like Cummins!
Malfunction in Gaz Gazelle: when starting the engine in the morning or after a long idle period, when the engine is cold, the starter bendix did not return for several seconds after starting. When the engine was hot it was not, and the starter worked as it should.
Well, everyone knows what to de-energize! 🙂
Unscrewing two bolts is one pleasure, everything is in plain sight, I don’t want to twist it. Here is the third top problematic one, I had to admit it, but still won. I had to unscrew the oil dipstick guide.
Then the starter was halfway through. The inside is dirty and there is very little lubrication. When removed, the spinning of the gear was tight.
Further there will be just photos from which everything will be clear.
disassemble and photograph
you still need to turn it in your hands
There are no workings anywhere.
After that, he missed with grease and collected everything in the same sequence.
I tested it, like all the rules.
VIDEO
Replacing the rings of the Gaz Gazelle generator
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Do not believe, there is no real life where there is asphalt!
Not necessarily pennies.
The pennies themselves are cleaned and changed. It is necessary to remove the retractor relay and disassemble it - clean it with a file or change it.
... use a screwdriver to turn the drive gear.
The gear should turn in one direction with the drive shaft, and in the other direction on the drive shaft. Otherwise, replace the drive with a new one.
Use a screwdriver to move the drive gear along the shaft.
The gear should move easily along the shaft without jamming. If the gear sticks to the shaft, the drive must be replaced.
To check the starter, we connect wires for "lighting" the "positive" terminal of the battery with the upper contact bolt
When carrying out this operation, care must be taken, since sparking is possible in the area of the terminals short circuit. Do not short the screwdriver to ground while shorting the terminals.
In this case, the drive gear should move out and the starter motor will turn on. Otherwise, we check the electric motor and the starter traction relay.
To check the electric motor.
... we connect with wires the "positive" terminal of the storage battery with the lower contact bolt of the traction relay, and the "negative" terminal with the starter housing.
In this case, the shaft of the electric motor must rotate. Otherwise, the motor is defective.
To check the traction relay, we connect with wires.
... The "positive" terminal of the storage battery with the control terminal of the traction relay, and the "minus" terminal - with the starter housing.
In this case, the drive gear should move out. If this does not happen, the traction relay is faulty. Install the starter in reverse order.
An element such as a starter is provided in the design of any car. GAZelle is no exception. This element is a separate electric motor that rotates the engine's crankshaft. What is a starter and how it works - further in our article.
This element can be characterized by a DC motor. After all, the element receives energy from the car battery and, with the help of four brushes, converts it into torque. The latter elements serve to increase the power of the electric motor itself.
"GAZelevsky" gear-type starter operates from a 12-volt network.
VIDEO
How does the starter work? GAZelle is a fairly simple car. Therefore, you will not have to study the design of the starter for a long time. So, the main components of this element are:
Electrical engine.
Solenoid relay.
Anchor.
Overrunning clutch. It is also called Bendix.
Brushes and holders.
All this is housed in a separate metal case.
No modern starter can do without this element. GAZelle is no exception.The anchor is made of alloy steel and looks like an axis. The collector plates, as well as the core, are pressed into the mechanism. In the design of the latter there are grooves for laying the armature windings. Their ends are fixed in a circular manner. The winding is installed on a dielectric base.
Its motorists call it "retractor." The element is designed to transmit voltage from the ignition switch to the electric motor of an element such as a starter. "GAZelle" (406th engine) at a certain key turnover starts to start.
In the common people it is called Bendix. The mechanism interacts with the relay core using a movable "rocker". The bendix itself is a rolling roller mechanism. Attached to the armature shaft. The main purpose of the overrunning clutch is to transmit torque to the flywheel through the use of engagement gears. When the engine starts successfully, the flywheel ring and drive gear are disengaged.
If the car starts to start badly, the starter must be disassembled. The GAZelle is first of all put on the “transfer”. Next, remove the terminal from the battery. Where is the starter located? "GAZelle" is completed with this element on the clutch housing on the right side of the engine.
How do you disassemble the starter with your own hands? "GAZelle" continues to stand still, and we take the element out. The first step is to remove the back cover. It is attached with two hairpins. You will need a key "for 10". If the lid comes out tight, you can use a hammer. We take it out with light blows. We take out the brushes, winding, anchor and plate. We inspect the condition of the elements. Since we have a gear starter, we add a little grease to the gear element.
Among these, it is necessary to note the breakdown of the starter relay. The reason for this is a displacement of the contact disc or a broken winding. Also, the contact of the power circuit is broken, which is why the element simply refuses to work. The reason may be trivial - poor wire tightening or oxidation of contacts. Another common problem is that the starter turns, but the engine does not start (the rpm is too low).
How much does a new starter for GAZelle cost? The item price ranges from three to five thousand rubles. If cleaning doesn't help, it makes sense to replace the entire element. The price is more than affordable.
So, we found out what a GAZelle starter is, how it works, how to remove it and repair it with our own hands.
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