DIY viburnum starter repair

In detail: DIY repair of a viburnum starter from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Depending on the malfunction that has occurred, the sequence and scope of repair work can be changed.

The most common starter malfunctions:

1. The winding burns out or the contact bolts and the contact plate in the traction relay burn out. To eliminate these faults, it is necessary to replace the traction relay. This can be done on the vehicle without removing the starter.

2. Defective overrunning drive clutch. To eliminate this malfunction, it is necessary to disassemble the starter and replace the drive.

3. Worn out; starter brushes. Remove the starter, replace the brush assembly and clean the manifold. When replacing the brush assembly, there is no need to remove the starter drive and the traction relay.

To complete the work you will need:

- two power wires (with clamps at the ends) for starting the engine from the storage battery of another car;

- puller for external retaining rings;

You can check the electrical part of the starter without disassembling it.

1. We remove the starter.

When checking, do not short-circuit the battery positive lead clamp to the starter housing. To do this, lengthen the clamp, for example by inserting a steel drift into it.

2. We connect the negative terminal of the battery to the starter housing with one wire. The second wire, connected to the positive terminal of the battery, is connected to the terminal bolt 2 of the traction relay, to which the starter wire is connected. If the starter armature starts to rotate, the starter motor is working properly.

3. We connect the second wire to the contact bolt 1 of the traction relay. Using a screwdriver or other suitable metal object, we short-circuit terminal 3 and the contact bolt of the traction relay. If there was a loud click and the starter armature began to rotate, it means that the traction relay is working properly.

Video (click to play).

To further check the starter, as well as to determine the cause of the malfunction, it is necessary to disassemble the starter.

1. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the nut securing the wire tip to the terminal (contact bolt) of the traction relay.

2. Remove the wire tip from the traction relay contact bolt.

3. With an 8 mm socket wrench, unscrew the two bolts of the traction relay.

4. We remove the traction relay from the starter (in this case, it is necessary to disconnect the shackle of the relay core from the upper end of the drive lever).

Check the ease of movement of the traction relay core. Connect an ohmmeter to the traction relay terminals and, pushing the armature all the way down, make sure that the contact bolts are closed (electrical resistance is close to zero). A defective traction relay must be replaced.

5. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the two nuts of the tie rods.

6. After carefully disconnecting the stator from the front cover, remove the stator from the awls.

7. Remove the central gear of the planetary reducer (sometimes the gear remains on the armature shaft).

8. Prying on with a slotted screwdriver, remove the three planetary gears of the reducer one by one.

Check the condition of the planetary gear. The pinion gear needle bearings must not be damaged. The gear teeth of the gearbox should not have chips, scuffs, traces of corrosion and other damage. It is necessary to replace the defective gearbox elements (either the drive or the starter assembly).

9. Resting on the top of the starter front cover with a screwdriver, pry the drive arm support.

10. We remove the drive from the cover together with the drive shaft, drive lever, lever support and external gear of the gearbox.

Check the condition of the drive. The drive must move freely, without jamming, along the splines of the shaft.The drive gear should turn freely only in one direction; chipping of teeth and strong nicks on the lead-in part of the teeth are unacceptable. Small defects can be removed with a diamond file or an abrasive bar. It is necessary to replace the faulty and badly worn drive (or starter assembly).

11... With a hammer, through a 13 mm open-end wrench, knock down the ring of the stop of the starter drive (in this case, a wooden block or a piece of dense rubber should be placed under the gear wheel of the red> ’ktor).

12. Using a slotted screwdriver, remove the stop ring of the drive travel stop from the shaft groove and remove the stop ring and travel stop ring from the shaft.

13. Remove the drive assembly from the shaft with a lever and a coupling.

14. Remove the retaining ring 1 of the drive lever clutch with a puller.

15. We remove the washer 2 from the drive 4, the clutch 5 assembled with the drive lever 3.

When replacing only the drive, further work on disassembling the starter can be omitted.

16. Remove the drive shaft support retaining ring with a puller.

17. From the drive shaft 1, we successively remove the thrust washer 5, the shaft support 4, the sealing rubber ring 3 and the outer gear of the planetary gear 2

18. Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the two screws securing the brush assembly to the back cover of the starter.

19. Remove the back cover.

20. Prying with a slotted screwdriver, remove the brush assembly from the armature collector.

21... Remove the front armature shaft support.

22... Remove the thrust washer from the armature shaft

23... Overcoming the force of the magnets, we remove the armature from the stator.

24. We inspect the collector and armature windings.

No traces of charring of the windings are allowed - such an anchor must be replaced.

25... We clean the contaminated collector with fine-grained emery paper, clamping the armature shaft through a strip of thick paper into the chuck of the electric drill. We rinse the anchor with water with a detergent to remove dirt, coal dust and abrasive residues and wipe it dry with a clean cloth, blow it off with compressed air from a tire pump.

26... We replace worn-out brushes (the height from the working edge to the output is equal to or less than 3.5 mm) and brushes that have mechanical damage.

27... We wash the parts of the gearbox and drive with white spirit or kerosene.

You can install the brush assembly on the starter armature manifold with a special mandrel or using a tool head of a suitable size and shape. If they are absent, the brushes can be installed without these devices. For this:

1) fasten the brush assembly to the back cover of the starter with two screws;

2) we lubricate the end of the armature shaft with two drops of engine oil;

3) insert four brushes into the corresponding brush holders. By inserting the springs of the brushes into the brush holders, we put on the brush assembly on the armature collector;

4) bend the outer stops of the springs of all four brushes with pliers with thin jaws;

5) insert the spring into the brush holder;

6) holding the spring with a screwdriver, bend the four spring stops with flat pipes. Install the other three springs in the same way;

7) insert the starter armature into the stator with the brush assembly and the back cover put on it (in this case, it is necessary to hold the armature so that its collector does not come out of engagement with the brush assembly).

Further assembly of the starter is performed in the reverse order of disassembly. At the same time, we apply SHRUS-4 grease to the gearbox parts. Before installing the drive, dip it in engine oil and let the oil drain. The bushings in which the armature and drive shafts rotate, as well as the screw splines of the drive, are lubricated with engine oil;

8) to make sure that the starter is assembled correctly, we check its performance before installation. as shown at the beginning of the section

It is more convenient to work on a viewing ditch or overpass. Disconnect the terminal of the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.
Remove the air filter (see "Removing the air filter").

Disconnect the traction relay control wire.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the nut that secures the tip of the wire connected to the "positive" terminal of the battery.

... and remove the wire end.

Using the "15" head, unscrew the two nuts of the starter fastening (the lower nut is not visible in the photo).

We remove the starter.
Install the starter in reverse order.
We disassemble the starter to replace the traction relay, brush holder with brushes and drive elements.
The traction relay can be replaced on the vehicle. For clarity, we show the replacement of the traction relay on the removed starter.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the nut of the lower contact bolt of the traction relay and remove the wire tip from it.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the two screws securing the traction relay.

... and remove it.
We take out the spring and the traction relay armature from the front cover.

Using the "8" wrench, unscrew the two tie bolts.

Disconnect the case and the front cover.

We take out the anchor with a brush holder and a back cover from the body.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the two screws.

... and remove the back cover.
A wavy spring washer is installed in the bearing seat of the rear cover.

We remove the insulated brushes from the brush holder.

Remove the cover of the planetary gear.

We take out three satellites of the planetary gear reducer of the drive.

Remove the rubber plug.
Pressing your finger on the end of the drive shaft.

... remove the drive assembly from the front cover.

Using two screwdrivers, unclench the support eyelet and remove the drive lever.
We support the end surface of the ring gear on a wooden block. By placing the jaws of the open-end wrench "on 13" on the stop ring of the drive gear ..

... and hitting the key with a hammer, press the planetary stop ring.

We pry the locking ring with a screwdriver and remove it.
Remove the drive gear travel stop ring.

Remove the overrunning clutch from the drive gear assembly.

Using a screwdriver, slide the retaining ring out of the shaft groove and remove it.

Remove the ring gear of the planetary reducer from the drive shaft.

We insert two metal plates between the bearing and the armature collector and rest them on the jaws of the vice, striking with a hammer, through a soft metal drift into the end of the shaft, press the bearing.
By external inspection we check the condition of the collector and the armature windings. Carbonization of the windings is not allowed. If the collector is slightly burned, we clean its plates with a fine abrasive cloth. In case of severe burning and wear of the collector, the armature should be replaced. Seizure and enveloping of the plain bearing material on the journal of the armature shaft are eliminated with the finest sandpaper, followed by polishing. With an ohmmeter, we check the short circuit of the armature winding to its core. The ends of the windings should be well soldered to the lamellas. Blackening of windings and separation of varnish insulation from them is not allowed.
When the brushes are worn out, we change the brush holder assembly.
We assemble the starter in the reverse order. We mount the brush holder before installing the armature in the stator. Before installing the brush holder on the armature collector, remove the springs of all four brushes so that the brushes slide into the guides.

To do this, bend the four clips of the spring holder.

... take out the spring.
After installing the brush holder on the armature collector, install the springs and bend the spring holders. We install the back cover and attach the brush holder to it.
Apply lubricant SHRUS-4 to the gears of the planetary reducer.

We install the stop ring of the drive gear on the stop ring using sliding pliers.

When installing the case on the anchor, hold the anchor with the handle of the hammer to prevent it from being attracted by permanent magnets and lower the case onto the back cover.

Starter repair Lada Kalina is a voluminous topic, and you can't put it in the framework of one short review. Let's try to at least figure out why this knot suddenly “does not twist” or does such work very hard.

One of the reasons may lie in a malfunction of the traction relay. It is indicated by characteristic clicks when starting the motor.

A burned-out winding, characteristic carbon deposits on the contact plate - this is “treated” by replacing the mentioned part. If you have some experience, you will not need to remove and thoroughly sort out the starter itself for this. If, after such a replacement, the car started up without any problems, we can say that it was lucky.

But clicks can be symptoms of a more serious breakdown, requiring a starter overhaul (in some cases - and its replacement).

The simplest diagnosis of a just removed starter is done as follows.

- Connect the terminal of the battery “earth” with one wire to the starter housing. We attach the other one to the “plus” of the battery and with the free end we bring it to the contact bolt of the traction relay (to which the wire from the starter has already been brought out). If the anchor remains motionless, the motor is faulty.

According to the maintenance regulations, every 45 thousand km it is necessary to remove the starter, change the lubricant and clean the collector. I have big doubts that the service station does not approach this issue in the right way. Perhaps, if the starter is removed, it is unlikely to be disassembled, at best, oil drips onto the bendix axle (I will clarify the term “bendix”: this is how motorists call the overrunning clutch that comes into contact with the flywheel crown, by the name of the company that produced these parts, similarly as copiers are called “copiers”).
I believe that this approach is unacceptable. Checked on one Kalina, when I had to “once in a cold winter season” at -20 degrees remove and sort out the starter because of the bendix jammed on the axis. The mileage was by this time 50 thousand km. I decided not to step on this rake and do everything as it should be. I have 41 thousand mileage, but while the weather was warm on the weekend, I decided to do everything in advance.
Looking ahead, I will say that the design of the Bosch starter is very reliable and, with proper maintenance, will probably last the entire life of the car. When disassembling, I did not find any signs of wear, but the grease was practically “dead”. Everyone knows what running without lubrication leads to. Therefore, we do not ignore starter maintenance. It doesn't cost a dime.

Overhaul of the starter does not require special knowledge and skills, but requires accuracy and patience.

Tools and materials: open-end and spanner wrenches for 10, 12 and 13, a Phillips screwdriver, a spanner wrench for 8 or a head, a flat screwdriver, a TORX 20 screwdriver, heads for 7 and 15, a drill with a drill d 5-6, sandpaper-zero or the material replacing it, CIATIM-201 (or LITOL-24), WD-40, 3 countersunk screws М5х35.

Removing the starter:
1. Remove the positive terminal from the battery (key 10)
2. Remove the air cleaner
3. Remove the terminal from the starter relay (blue arrow), move the protective rubber cap and unscrew the nut with a spanner wrench or head, remove the terminal from the battery (red arrow)

4. Spray WD-40 onto the starter mounting studs (top - green arrow, bottom on the other side of the starter, not visible). You don't need to splash, but it will be much easier to unscrew and tighten the nuts by hand (checked). Unscrew both nuts with a 15-inch head. It is desirable that the head extension be slightly longer than the distance from the nut to the rear of the starter, as otherwise it is very inconvenient to unscrew the lower nut. We take out the starter.

Disassembly and assembly of the starter.

We install a starter and an air cleaner on the car.

In conclusion, a few words about lubrication. The slots on which the Bendix walks are recommended to be lubricated with CIATIM-201 grease. This grease actually differs from LITOL-24 only in less thickness. If there is no CIATIM, you can drop a drop of engine oil into LITOL, or you can use LITOL as it is. You just need to apply a moderate amount of grease, and the main enemy in this unit is not thick grease, but dirt. Periodic starter maintenance solves this problem.

A starter type 5702.3708 is installed on the Lada Kalina. Starter BOSH 0001108203 can be installed on some cars.

The armature shaft transfers rotation to the drive shaft through a planetary gearbox.

The planetary gears of the reducer rotate on needle bearings.

The starter drive consists of a pinion gear and an overrunning clutch.

Starter connection diagram in fig. one.

The traction relay is installed on the motor housing. The large current consumed by the starter when starting the engine is transmitted through the copper contacts of the relay.

The relay has two retraction and retention coils.

When the ignition key is turned to position II, a voltage is supplied to the control output of the traction relay "50" of type 902-3747-11, and from it, voltage is supplied to the two windings of the solenoid relay from the battery.

Under the influence of a magnetic field, the metal core of the traction relay, overcoming the force of the spring, is drawn into the coil. In doing so, he drives the starter drive lever.

The lever in turn extends the starter drive, bringing the pinion gear into engagement with the engine flywheel ring gear.

At the same time, a copper contact plate closes the contact bolts.

A current begins to flow through the windings of the starter armature, the armature rotates, starting the engine.

The negative terminal of the retractor winding of the relay is connected to ground through the starter armature windings.

After the contact bolts are closed, current stops flowing through the winding, and the core of the traction relay is held by only one winding, this makes it possible to reduce the heating of the relay windings and reduce the energy at the moment of starting.

We connect the negative terminal of the battery to the starter housing with one wire.

The second wire, connected to the positive terminal of the battery, is connected to the terminal bolt 2 of the traction relay, to which the starter wire is connected.

If the starter armature starts to rotate, the starter motor is working properly.

We connect the second wire to the contact bolt 1 of the traction relay. Using a screwdriver or other suitable metal object, we short-circuit terminal 3 and the contact bolt of the traction relay.

If there was a loud click and the starter armature began to rotate, it means that the traction relay is working properly.

To further check the starter, as well as to determine the cause of the malfunction, it is necessary to disassemble the starter.

1. Disconnect the "-" terminal from the battery.

Disconnect the traction relay control wire.

2. With a 13 head, unscrew the nut that secures the tip of the wire connected to the positive terminal of the battery

3. Remove the wire end

4. Turn off the two starter mounting nuts with the head.

6. Marking on the starter housing

With a 13 head, turn off the nut that secures the wire tip to the output of the traction relay. Remove the spring washer from the output

8. Remove the wire end

9. Unscrew the three screws securing the traction relay

10. Remove the traction relay from the starter

11. We take out the spring from the relay

12. Remove the anchor of the traction relay from the drive lever

13. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the bearing cover

How to repair the starter 2110-3708010 "KZATE" with your own hands, it was installed on the cars VAZ-2110, Lada Kalina, Priora. In our auto services, they usually do not undertake the repair of a starter, but offer to buy it as an assembly.

A fairly detailed review, the author, in addition to the starter repair itself, also conducts a complete educational program on the structure of the part, common problems.

Video repair of a starter from VAZ 2110 3708010 "KZATE":

This manual can be used for repairs and other starters with a similar mechanism, including foreign brands. This repair is not the easiest, especially for those who have little understanding of electrical engineering, but anyone can handle it if they wish. You will always have time to buy a new assembled part, but if I do everything with my own hands, you gain invaluable experience.To carry out repair work, the PRAMO starter must be removed from the vehicle. See the article "Removing and installing the starter Lada Kalina". Also, to revise the starter, you will need the following tools: a 10 and 13 mm wrench, an 8 mm head, pliers for removing retaining rings, a flat and cross-blade screwdriver, a mandrel.1. Unscrew the positive power cable from the solenoid relay.2.Remove the three screws of the solenoid relay and remove it from the starter.3. Pull out the solenoid core. At the same time, remove it from the rod.4. Unscrew the rear starter cover and remove it with brush holders and brushes.5. Pull the armature out of the starter
6. Remove the front cover and pull out the 3 gears of the gear mechanism. Inspect them for tooth integrity, cracks, wear, deformation. Also check the condition of the built-in needle bearings. Replace gears if necessary.7. Remove the plastic support for the lever
8. Remove the driven gearbox from the cover.
9. Knock the stop ring off the retaining ring.10 Then remove the retaining ring and stop ring11 Gently open the plastic ears and remove the drive-lever from the leash.12. Remove the actuator assembly from the shaft
13. Remove the lock washer using a screwdriver.14. Remove the bushing from the shaft support
15. Remove the two screws and remove the brush holder from the collector side cover.Install the assembled brush holder into the starter housing until it stops, remove the mounting sleeve and install the cover from the manifold side.In addition, additional information on the repair of the Lada Kalina starter can be found in the article "Repair of the VAZ2110 starter". These starters are similar and differ slightly. On some cars of the tenth family, it was the starter that was later installed on the Lada Kalina car, namely 2110-3708010-02
Also, if you have a Bosh starter installed, then you can see information on its repair in the article "Repair of a Bosh Lada Kalina starter"The article describes in great detail with a photo accompaniment the process of repairing a starter on a VAZ 2110 car.In a new car, breakdowns and malfunctions in the starter are rare. But if the car has served for more than 5 years, then problems may arise. The car owner himself can determine the malfunction of the starter - the car does not start, uncharacteristic sounds when starting the engine, the starter turns off spontaneously.But many motorists do not pay attention to such signals from the car. And they bring the situation to the point that it is no longer possible to "save" the starter. But an experienced motorist who monitors his car, immediately, by the sound of a working car, will determine the malfunction of this part. So how do you fix a starter? Its repair takes place in several dozen stages described below.1. First, you need to remove the starter from the car. Now we proceed to disassemble the part.3. Disconnect the tire from the traction relay contact bolt.4. Carefully remove the two bolts that hold the traction relay.5. The traction relay must be removed from the starter.6. Set aside the starter itself and remove the armature from the traction relay. To do this, lift it up and the anchor loop is released from the lever.7. Now we return to the starter itself. Remove the tie rod nuts.8. The next step is to remove the cover from the drive end with the gearbox and the same assembly part.9. The cover must also be removed from the side of the collector with brushes and brush holders.10. Then remove the gear from the anchor shaft.11. Pull the anchor itself out of the starter.12. The anchor shaft has a washer on the drive side (pay special attention to this).13. Use a screwdriver or other thin object to remove the anchor shaft support.14. Then use a small screwdriver to remove the two tie rods from the starter cover. In general, it is not necessary to remove them, if you are in a hurry, you can leave them, however, it is more convenient to remove the drive and gearbox without these pins.15. Then remove the three gears of the reducer. A breakdown of the starter may consist precisely in the fact that these gears have damaged, broken teeth or needle bearings embedded in the gears. If this defect is present, then replace the parts and the starter will work again.16. But, if the gears are in order, then continue to disassemble and check the starter for damage further. It is necessary to remove the gearbox with the drive from the cover, after pressing on the gear of the starter drive.17.The support with the seal must be removed from the lever.19. Use a hammer to knock the stop ring off the retaining ring using a suitable arbor.20. Carefully remove the retaining ring first and then the stop ring.21. Remove the actuator assembly from the drive shaft.22. Unscrew the lever retaining ring.23. Then remove the lever with washer and leash.24. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the spring of the lever.25. Now you can remove the lever from the liner, and separate the halves of the lever.26. Remove the meshing gear retaining ring.27. Next, disassemble the internal gear and remove the drive shaft support from the shaft.28. Carefully remove the o-ring from the pore. Examine it carefully. A damaged, deformed, hardened ring will adversely affect the operation of the entire starter. It must be replaced.29. The next step is to remove the insert from the support.30. From the side of the collector, unscrew the two screws and remove the brush holder.31. Using a screwdriver, pry off the brush clips.32. Then remove these clips and their hold-down springs. Again, replace deformed or damaged parts, heavily compressed or bent, broken springs.33. Pull the brushes out of the brush holder guides.34. Uninsulated brushes must be removed.35. Then remove the cardboard insulation strip. If it is damaged, compressed, torn, replace it with a new one.36. Remove the insulated brushes with connecting rails.37. Carefully and in detail inspect the anchor. Pay attention to the collector. 1. If the part is dirty, smoked, sand it with glass fine sandpaper. If traces of significant roughness are visible on it or mica protrudes strongly, grind the part on a lathe and then grind the collector with fine sandpaper. 2. If traces of yellow plaque from the bearing are visible on the anchor, then clean it with fine glass sandpaper, because later this can lead to jamming of the shaft gear. If there are dents or nicks on the surfaces of parts such as pins and shaft splines, replace the entire armature. Pay attention to the winding along the ends of the armature. If you see any flaws there, replace the anchor.3. Check the reliability of soldering the leads of the armature winding to the collector plates. 38. Using a test lamp supplied with an alternating current of 220 V, check the condition of the armature winding. Connect the lamp voltage to the collector plate and the armature core. If everything is in order, the lamp should not be lit. If, nevertheless, it burns, then the anchor winding has closed. In this case, simply replace the starter armature with a new one.39. While holding the overrunning clutch, turn the starter gear in both directions: clockwise the gear should move absolutely freely, and should not rotate counterclockwise at all. If something is broken, replace the drive.40. Then put the starter drive onto the drive shaft. If everything is in order, then it should move freely, without jamming or stopping, along the splines of the shaft.41. If you see that the drive parts are badly worn, deformed, damaged, replace the drive. If you find nicks on the winding end of the gear teeth, grind them with a fine-grained emery wheel. Choose a circle with a small diameter.42. Inspect the bushings in which the shafts rotate. They are installed in the starter cover on the drive side, on the manifold side, the armature and drive shaft support. If bushings are deformed or scored, replace covers or supports with broken bushings. Cracked covers and supports should also be replaced.43. Carefully inspect the starter itself, and if there are traces of anchor rubbing on it, replace the cover and intermediate support with a new one.44. Worn brushes up to the size between the working surface and the terminal less than 3.5 mm, replace.45. The brushes must move freely towards the brush holder. And the brush holder should not have cracks, chips, flaws. Check if this is so. If everything is in order, then proceed to the next stage of the repair.If there are faults, replace the parts.46. Begin inspection of the drive shaft. Its elements should not show signs of damage, severe wear and deformation. If there is plaque, remove it with fine glass sandpaper. Work carefully so as not to damage the parts.47. Using an ohmmeter, check if the contact plate closes the traction relay contact bolts. If they do not close, replace the parts or simply repair the relay.48. To repair the relay:

1. Remove the two screws.

2. Unsolder the relay coils and terminals.

3. Then remove the cover and sand the pins and bolt heads with a sandpaper. The relay should be assembled in the reverse order.

49. Now proceed with the assembly of the starter. Before starting, lubricate the gear teeth with engine oil. Assemble the starter in reverse order.50. Install the brush holder into the starter separately from the cover on the collector side. To assemble and install this part, use a bushing with a diameter (mark 1) equal to the diameter of the manifold (approximately 30 millimeters).51. Install the assembled brush holder into the starter housing until it stops, then remove the bushing and install the cover on the starter from the collector side. The renovation is completed.And your starter for a VAZ car is as good as new again! To replace the starter on Kalina on your own, no complicated manipulations are needed, but only a minimum of tools will be enough. To make it easier to carry out repairs, it is better to remove the air filter housing in order to gain free access to the starter. This is described in detail here. Of course, you can do without it, just crawl under the car and unscrew the protection, but I chose a longer, but more convenient option.To remove and install the starter, you will need a 13 open-end or union wrench, as well as a ratchet with a 13-point head for greater convenience.

Remove the negative terminal of the battery first.

Then it is necessary to disconnect the power wires, one of which is located under the protective rubber cap, which must be moved aside:

And unscrew the nut with a 13 key, which presses the starter power wire:

We take out this wire and disconnect another one that is nearby. You just need to pull it to the side with a little effort and it can be easily removed.

Now we move the plugs to the side so that they do not interfere with us and, with a 13 key, unscrew the three nuts securing the starter housing. Two of which are clearly visible from above, and the third is from below, you can feel it with your hand.

After the lower nut is unscrewed, you can freely remove this part by removing it from the studs:

If your Lada Kalina needs to replace the starter, then we take a new part and install everything in the reverse order.

It took me no more than 30 minutes to complete the work on this repair, taking into account the dismantling of the air filter housing. So, you can get it done even faster, but I think there is no need to rush in such a matter. There are still questions, we ask in the comments, we will discuss together!

Hello, I really need help, or rather a professional consultation !, Kalina 1.4 16 cl. HBO of the 4th generation costs, on a cold (even in summer) it is very bad to start the starter at first it is hard (but not quite) turns 4-8 times it starts up, he himself changed the fuel filter, the mesh in the gas tank, put new candles, did not solve the problem, went to the service, carried out diagnostics, said that the spark was excellent, the compression was very good, but one of the coils was feeling very bad, the coil was replaced on the spot and, just in case, the air filter was asked to fill in good 95th fuel and did it, it started up with a kick floor. but the car stood for almost a week in the garage again started up 4-8 times, drove home and left to spend the night on the street, the night temperature was positive, everything repeats from 4-8 times, and the starter just turned a little hard at first, the BATTERY was charged. I don’t know what’s the matter, I can’t imagine what will happen in winter! can anyone come across such a problem !?

I figured out the starter, really sat tightly on the flange (stuck), faked it with a flat screwdriver, loosening it was possible to remove.
I want to add one nuance that is not in this article, but is in the passport for the new starter: when replacing the starter, you also need to change the gearbox starter bushing. I don’t know how important this is ... I think it depends on the number of engine start cycles and, nevertheless, it is desirable to change this bushing; another thing is that it is not very convenient to change it (without removing the gearbox).

Hello!
Thanks for your blog, it helps a lot, especially for a newbie like me.
In the process of work, I had a question: I wanted to remove the starter, I unscrewed all three nuts, but the starter does not want to take off, I do it back and forth, but it does not move in any way. Is it possible that he is sticky? How to treat? VDshkoy?
Kalina 09g; 1.6; 8kl; mileage 40t. (sort of like a real one), one owner before me, the equipment is almost the simplest.
Thanks in advance!

My problem is this: The battery is charged, but when I start to start, a click is heard under the hood and the car will not start. What can you tell me.

Your starter retractor relay is out of order. It was the same: it clicks under the hood, but nothing happens. I bought a retractor (it is much cheaper than a starter assembly) and everything became buzzing.

Very often in the articles of different, on replacing the starter on Kalina, it is indicated that the starter must be unscrewed with a head of 15! And your head is indicated at 13. I myself have to remove the starter in order to make an audit, here the head is at 13, but not at 15. I'll have to climb into my Kalinka and look more precisely! And so your article is very detailed and intelligible.

Since I write articles myself, so to speak, I do everything from personal experience, I write the tool that was needed for the repair, although sometimes I could be mistaken ... And if they write about the head at 15, then people write about 2110, thinking that and on Kalina everything is the same.

But no, the Kalina sedan is 10 years old, not 13, but 15 years old, the key is needed ... and as ill luck would have it, he didn’t take all the keys with him, he will have to take off the starter tomorrow.

Hello! When I started the engine, the sound was like a ratchet, and the starter turned easily without touching the engine, as if there was no connection between the starter and the engine. what problem could be with the starter in this case?

and the fuel pump "pumped up"?
In general, my case was like this:
stopped at a gas station on the highway to wipe the headlights and glass by turning off the engine. after turning the ignition key, there was no response at all. put it in gear, pushed it a couple of tens of centimeters and tried to start the car again. started up. )) maybe dirt somewhere got on the contacts, maybe some other nasty thing, but I had to go and the evening was already so I just sat down and drove off. the next day it started up normally. ))

Cars of the Lada Kalina-2 families are supplied with one of three engines: 21127, 21126 (Priora), 21116. The starter is replaced in all three cases in the same way: first you need to dismantle the mount and move the air filter unit aside. This plastic block is visible as soon as the hood is opened. It is held in place by three clamps, which are dismantled with pliers. All actions performed in the required sequence are discussed further.

Any gasoline engine is supplied with a part called "starter". This unit, that is, the starter, is a conventional electric motor. Voltage "+12 Volts" is supplied to it by one electrical cord. The body acts as the second wire.

There is always voltage at the supply terminal

A relay is fixed inside the starter, the contacts of which conduct the supply current. When you need to start the internal combustion engine, the contacts are closed. We note right away: the voltage on the power wire always remains while the battery is charged. Therefore, before dismantling, be sure toRemove the negative terminal from the battery.

Auto electricians know: when working with any equipment, the battery is completely disconnected from the network. It is easier to do this by disconnecting the negative terminal (you need a flat key "10").

If the battery is charged, and the starter “does not turn”, then first you need to check whether there is voltage on the contacts of the “Ka-3” relay. This element is fixed in a single mounting block, and it is called like this: "Additional starter relay".

Under the hood of "Kalina-2" it is easy to find an air filter module, which prevents access to the unit we need. This module must be pushed aside, but first you must disconnect the air intake hose.

Black box - filter module

The sleeve itself, attached to the bottom of the module, is simply pulled out in the "left" direction. The whole process looks like this:

We take out the sleeve from the pipe

Just in case, we give a drawing of the node in question:

Filter module design

The figure shows the connector installed on the top of the module. The plug from this connector is also disconnected beforehand, but first, the negative terminal is removed from the battery. Why do this, we discussed earlier. It turns out that there will be three preparatory steps: disconnecting the battery terminal, dismantling the sleeve from the filter side, disconnecting the plug.

Theoretically, replacing the starter looks easier if the duct sleeve is disconnected from both sides (on Kalina 2, it covers the caps of the fastening screws). This statement is illustrated in the figure:

Car engine starter Kalina-2 / Granta

We will have access to nuts "2", but we will have to reach for the screw heads. However, there is nothing special here. Now, let's remove the plastic module from the clips:

Three rubber clips hold the filter module

After completing all the above steps, the module can be set aside.

The last action before dismantling the starter

Replacing the starter on the Lada Kalina is done as quickly as replacing other parts that are "consumables". In this case, changing the cabin filter will be even more difficult. And the durability of the node called "starter" is actually not limited by anything. Its drawing is shown below:

Starter Lada Kalina-2

There are three mounting holes here, for which the M8 screws are suitable (you need a 13-key). Dismantling is carried out in the following order:

Unscrew the nut "3" (the key "13" is suitable);
Remove the terminal from the contact screw;
The built-in relay plug is disconnected;
Unscrew two or three fastening nuts with a key "13".

All of these actions are illustrated in the photo:

Installation of a new starter is carried out in the reverse order. And we provide the manual for its repair in the video.

It is important to know: in order to avoid electrical injuries, the negative terminal of the battery is connected last. All parts and assemblies must be assembled before this, and the protective covers installed in place.

Video (click to play).