DIY VAZ 2106 classic starter repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a classic vaz 2106 starter from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The VAZ 2106 starter is an electric motor with four poles, which is responsible for starting the engine in a car. The principle of operation of the mechanism is based on the transfer of the initial stroke to the engine crankshaft. 4 brushes of the device allow to increase the torque power. Naturally, if the starter fails, the motor will not be able to start.

The gears that left the conveyor after the 80s were equipped with starters with an end manifold 35.3708. Older models were equipped with the ST-221 model. The design features of these devices practically do not differ, therefore, when replacing, you can install any one. The difference is that more modern starters have one shunt coil and three series ones, while older models have two coils of both types.

We give the diagram "Gear starter for VAZ 2106":

How to understand that the starter needs to be repaired or changed? This may be indicated by the following signals:

The starter relay on the VAZ 2106 works properly, but the armature does not work or rotates very slowly. This may be due to a burned out collector. It is also worth checking the integrity of the winding, whether the relay fasteners are loose, whether there is a short circuit in the collector, whether the brushes are worn out or stuck. Also, the problem may arise due to a discharged battery.
The starter turns on, but the relay and armature are not working. Most likely this indicates a seized anchor. You also need to check whether the lugs are tightened well, whether there is a short to ground and how intact the wires are.
The armature rotates, but the crankshaft does not rotate. This may indicate that the buffer spring has failed. You also need to check the integrity of all elements of the coupling.
Loud noises are heard. This usually indicates defective bushings and gears.
When starting the engine, the starter continues to work. This is the result of a failure of the return spring, a skewed device, or a jammed relay and actuator handle.

Video (click to play).

Loosen the bottom mounting bolt and take it out.
We unscrew the hose from the air intake, unscrew the nut with which the shield is attached from above and the nut that is located under the air intake.
We remove the shield.
We unscrew the two upper mounting bolts with which the starter is connected to the crankcase.
We also unscrew the lower mounting bolt.
We move the device forward and disconnect the relay output from the block.
We turn off the nut that secures the wire between the battery and the relay.
The starter motor is removed with an upward movement.

Installing a new device is carried out upside-down.

Repairing a VAZ 2106 starter is a long and thankless task. Moreover, in the store you can buy a brand new device for a small fee. Therefore, we advise you not to waste your precious time and, in the event of a breakdown, simply install a new one. But if you still want to tinker, we suggest watching the video tutorial.

Repair of a VAZ 2106 starter is a rather painstaking process that requires the endurance of a person and his straight hands. It is quite possible to carry out repairs yourself if you follow all the points of the manual correctly. Today we are publishing an article about self-repair of a starter on a VAZ 2106 car.

DIY starter repair

1. The first step is to remove the starter from the engine.

2. Using the "13" wrench, weaken the tightening of the nut securing the wire to the traction relay.

3. Then disconnect the wire end.

4. We supply voltage 12V to the relay output.

5. We put "minus" - on the body, and the ohmmeter is connected to the contact bolts.In this case, for a working relay, the armature should push the overrunning clutch into the front cover window, and the contact bolts should close. We replace the faulty traction relay with a new one.

6. Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the three screws.

8. We take out the rod with the spring from the relay case.

9. Install the new traction relay in the reverse order.

10. For further disassembly of the starter, use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the two screws.

12. To check the condition of the brushes, use a slotted screwdriver to unscrew the screw securing the contact wire.

13. Pressing the spring with a screwdriver, remove the brush. In the same way, we remove the three remaining brushes. The brushes worn out to a height of 12 mm or less are replaced.

14. Connecting the ohmmeter in turn to the terminals of the stator windings, we check them for a short circuit to the case and an interturn short circuit. At the same time, we make sure that the free winding leads are isolated from the case.

15. Prying off with a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring.

17. Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the two tie bolts.

19. Disconnect the starter housing and remove the tie bolt insulating tubes from it.

20. By external inspection we check the condition of the collector and windings. Charring of the windings is not allowed. If the collector is slightly burned, we clean its plates with a fine abrasive cloth. In case of severe burning and wear, it is better to replace the anchor. Seizure and enveloping of bronze from bearings on the journals of the armature shaft are eliminated with the finest sandpaper, followed by polishing.

21. With an ohmmeter, we check the armature winding for a short circuit. We replace the defective anchor.

22. Remove the rubber seal from the drive cover.

23. Remove the adjusting washer from the armature axis. When reassembling, it must be reinstalled.

24. Unpin the axle of the lever.

26. We take out the anchor with the drive.

27. Prying with a screwdriver, remove the overrunning clutch drive lever.

28. The gear should easily rotate in one direction and not rotate in the other, not have chips and nicks on the lead-in part of the teeth. If the gear is worn or the coupling is faulty, we change the assembly.

29. Leaning the axis of the anchor on a wooden block, through the key "13" knock down the stopper from the retaining ring.

30. Prying with a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring.

31. Remove the limiter and freewheel assembly with the drive gear from the axle.

32. Having changed the clutch assembly, put the retaining ring in place and put on the stopper with a tapered groove to the armature winding.

33. The limiter is pressed onto the retaining ring with hammer blows through the key "13".

34. With compressed air we remove coal dust from the body and the brush holder. Lubricate the drive ring and the plastic surfaces in contact with it with Litol-24 or grease No. 158. Support bearings - rotor bushings, helical splines of the armature shaft and overrunning clutch hub are lubricated with engine oil.

35. Further assembly is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.

36. Before assembling the starter, insert the housing pinch bolts into the appropriate holes.

Attention! If only one bolt was insulated, when assembling the starter, we put an insulating tube on the one that can touch the copper bus connecting the stator windings of the starter.

37. To latch the retaining ring, squeeze the starter armature through the cover bushing on the drive side.

The repair of the VAZ 2106 starter has been successfully completed. Thank you for your attention!

It is known that a car cannot drive without a starter. It seems to be a simple electric motor, but without it, nowhere. It is possible to start a piston unit with a failed "starting" unit only from a pusher, but perhaps only for a trip to a car service specialist.

The reasons for the breakdown of such a critical mechanism are quite obvious. Most diseases can be treated if you repair the starter yourself. We list further the main sources of malfunctions:

natural wear and tear of the elements of the electric motor;
water ingress during washing the engine of the car;
improper operation of the unit, for example, prolonged periods of operation of the electric motor after starting the motor;
short circuits.

Preliminarily, we note that according to the symptoms when turning the ignition key, it is necessary to separate the types of malfunctions of the starting electric motor. If, for example, a click or crack is heard after turning the key, then the problem is in the retractor cylinder. The latter can be replaced completely.To begin with, we will analyze how to make a starter repair with our own hands on VAZ cars. First, let's take the very first of the cars in this line.To repair a VAZ 2101 with our own hands, we will use the tools listed below:

set of wrenches;

flat and cross screwdrivers;

sandpaper;

heads.

So, we start work by opening the hood.

Disconnect the terminals from the battery.

Dismantle the air filter housing with a filter element.

We unscrew the three nuts securing the electric motor to the motor.

We disconnect the wires, after taking photographs of the connections.

We remove the defective device.

Perhaps the so-called "pants" - the exhaust pipe, will prevent this, then you will have to unscrew the four bolts and "lower the pants".

Separate the retraction cylinder from the dismantled element by disconnecting the wire and unscrewing three screws. We inspect it, if necessary, replace it completely.

After unscrewing the bolts, remove the motor cover.

Having unscrewed two bolts, dismantle the cover.

We separate the windings from the brush holder plates, remove the insulating tube.

We separate the cover from the side of the collector.

We take out the brushes of the electric motor with a screwdriver. We measure them, replace them if necessary.

We disassemble the drive of the defective assembly unit. To do this, remove the cotter pin, then remove the drive lever, disengage the drive from the clutch, and then remove it.

We inspect the windings of the electric motor.

If necessary, press out, after which we replace the bushings of the assembly.

We clean elements with carbon deposits or deposits. We replace the failed parts with new parts.

We assemble and assemble on the way back.

Note that do-it-yourself starter repair at the VAZ 2106 is carried out according to similar instructions.Also find out where the fuel filter on the Hyundai Solaris and the fuel pump device are located.

Apparently, there are not many difficulties here.

The same can be said about repairing a starter, for example, an Audi 80 with your own hands. There you need to act, practically repeating the above points.

However, not everyone decides to do the repair of the starter with their own hands. Someone may find it much more convenient to contact a car service technician. For such motorists, we have compiled a table with prices for the described operation.

Starter VAZ 2106 cutaway

As you know, in order to drive a car, you need it to start. And with a broken starter, this is extremely difficult to do, so the question of repairing the starter on VAZ 2106 cars often arises.
What could be the reasons for the inoperative state of the VAZ 2106 starter? How to repair it with your own hands?
This repair manual will give answers to these and other questions, and everything will immediately fall into place!

Let's take a look at some of the symptoms of an inoperative starter, and what could be the cause of the failure with this symptom.
So:

No movement of the starter occurs when the ignition key is turned. Such a sign can characterize both a dead battery and an inoperative starter.
If all the car's electronics work, but it won't start, it's the starter.
In this case, it means that the contacts in the solenoid relay are stuck and do not work.
Another sign is that the starter turns, but does not start. The cause of this malfunction may be significant wear on the starter brushes.
One more thing - when you turn the ignition key, a click is heard, and then nothing happens. Again, this indicates that the retractor relay is not working properly.
When trying to start the engine, multiple clicks are heard from under the bonnet space. This is a sign that the bendix is out of order - the gear for the engagement with the flywheel.
The starter "wedges".This is already more serious, because in this case, it can be caused by the development of the starter shaft or in the housing - a skew occurs and the teeth catch a wedge.
There may be another option - faulty bearings. It's better and cheaper!

Here are a few starter problems that can happen to your vehicle. If you find one of them, it means that the VAZ starter needs repair as soon as possible.
Now to the point.

What you need to remove and repair a starter:

Keys 8, 10 and 13
Screwdriver (2 pieces)
Calipers

Vernier caliper - can be normal or electronic

You will need such a measuring device

The malfunction and the possible reason for it were identified, the tool was prepared, prayed (not necessary, but you can) and you can start repairing the starter!

To repair the starter, it must be removed from the vehicle.
Let's get started:

Note! Be sure to remove the negative terminal from the battery. Otherwise, it threatens to close the circuit when removing the starter.

Ensure good access to the starter before starting removal.
To do this, you need to remove the air filter housing.
To remove it, unscrew the three bolts securing the starter to the gearbox housing.
To do this, take a 13 key and first unscrew the 2 upper bolts, and then the lower one.
Disconnect the wires from the starter, and then remove it.

Advice. Wear gloves when removing the starter to avoid scalding yourself or knocking your hands on the manifold.

So, the starter was removed. Now you can start disassembling.

Advice! When disassembling the starter, be careful not to lose any of the small parts that are plentiful.

We begin disassembling the VAZ 2106 starter by removing the retractor relay. This is done in the following way.
First you need to disconnect the wires - the output of the windings from the starter. Using a 13 key, unscrew the fastening nut and remove the wire and washers.

Further, from the bottom, unscrew the three screws securing the retractor relay.
The relay will be pulled out. Then remove the anchor of the retractor relay by removing the spring from it and pushing it slightly up and to the side.
Now go to the starter and remove the top protection.
Unscrew the two screws securing the protective cover and remove it.
For the next step, we need screwdrivers. With their help, we pry the rotor shaft retaining ring and remove it together with the washer.

Measurement of a short to frame with a multimeter

Measure the short circuit to the case. How to do this can be seen in the photo.
Now we take the key for 10 and unscrew the two bolts securing the cover from the case.
Next, use a screwdriver to unscrew the screws securing the connecting wire and starter windings.

Disassembled starter brush holder VAZ 2106

Now it is necessary to separate the housing and the starter cover.
We remove the brushes together with the springs. To do this, simply pry them with a screwdriver.
We take a previously prepared mandrel for the bearing and press out the rear starter bearing. Be careful not to break the case!
We take out the cotter pin with a screwdriver and pliers.
Next, you need to remove the rubber plug, and then the anchor with the fork.
We press out the second bearing.
Now let's remove the bendinks - the gear for engaging with the flywheel.
To do this, move the washer and remove the retaining ring with two screwdrivers.

Be careful! The circlip usually flies off to an unknown corner of the garage. Therefore, substitute something so that it does not fly far away.

Then we simply remove the bendix by hand.

Starter clutch (bendix)

On this, the entire starter is disassembled.

So, now, according to the state of the parts, it is necessary to determine which of them has become unusable and what will need to be changed:

Brushes.
Using a vernier caliper, measure the height of the brushes. It must be at least 12 mm. If this is not the case, the brushes will have to be changed.
Starter windings.
They should not be burnt. Also, they should not show signs of damage to the insulation, cracks or more serious mechanical damage.
Starter anchor.
Check the fit of the end of the shaft and the bottom of the starter. The backlash should be minimal.If the bore or shaft surface is worn out, then replacement is necessary (best).
The axial clearance should not be more than 0.5 mm.
If the surface of the anchor is burnt, then you need to clean it with sandpaper.

Bearings.
Check the axial play of the bearing. Grasp the inner clip and swing the outer one with the other hand. Change them if necessary.
Replace the solenoid relay if necessary (see above for signs of inoperability)
Bendix. The gear teeth must not be worn out and it must not rotate in two directions.
The retractor fork should also be free of obvious damage - cracks, chips and signs of wear.

If you need to replace something, then it will not be difficult. Especially considering that the price of starter parts is not that high.

Measurement of axial play (clearance)

After all the faulty parts have been found, the reasons have been eliminated and all the necessary parts have been replaced, you can proceed to assembly. The order of assembly is the reverse of the order of disassembly, so we will not go deep into this process.
Let's pay attention only to some points:

Be sure to lubricate all bearings, armature shaft and drive gear (bendix) before assembly.

Do not forget to install anything - remember that there should not be any extra parts left.

Install starter brushes correctly.

Tighten all fasteners to sufficient torque.

After assembling the starter, install it on the vehicle. Everything is exactly the same.
We attach the starter, connect the wires, put back the air filter and connect the battery.The article VAZ 2106 starter repair + video to it will help you to more clearly imagine how to repair the starter of your favorite six with your own hands. We hope that these tips, additional information, and photos will help you repair the starter yourself.
If, after repairing the starter, some malfunction still remains, then you can repeat the work - perhaps you missed something. Or contact the craftsmen at the nearest service station.Welcome!
A starter - it is very important for every car, without it the car would simply not start while standing still and you would simply have to constantly push it in order to somehow revive it and start the engine. But nevertheless, over time, the starter becomes unusable and it will need to be replaced, but why change it if it can be simply repaired, or maybe it only has a faulty starter retractor relay, so it does not start the car, so in order not to run into car shop ahead of time, you can try to disassemble the faulty starter first, see which part has become unusable, then go to the car shop and buy it, and nothing needs to be replaced.But how to disassemble a starter removed from a car, few know, and therefore, especially for such people, we have prepared this article, in which we described in detail the process of repairing a starter on cars of a classic family.Note!
To repair an old starter, you will need to stock up on: The main set of wrenches, pliers, as well as two screwdrivers, one of which will be a cross-type and the other flat (Flat type, if possible, take two screwdrivers at once), and you will also need to take vernier calipers, hammer and conventional mandrels with which it will be possible to press and press out the bearings (bushings) that are inside the starter without hindrance!Summary:When should the starter be repaired?
Basically, the repair of this unit is everyone's business, so to speak, that is, someone wants to do this, and someone does not at all, that is, a person will go and buy himself a new starter, but nevertheless, in both of these situations, the question will arise, how to understand that that the starter does not work?Before analyzing this question, let's understand what the starter in the car is responsible for.As mentioned earlier, the starter is needed in order to start the car, so if the starter is faulty, the first problem that the car will have is that it will not start, when turning the key in the ignition, various kinds of clicks can occur, but the car will not start will. (In this case, this malfunction can be associated either with the solenoid relay, or with the brushes that are installed in the inside of the starter motor)The next malfunction is associated with the copper contacts of the starter, it happens that these contacts burn out and, in connection with this, the starter starts to spin the car engine poorly, thereby your car starts up not in 1 second as it was before, but for example in 3-10 seconds, but maybe more, it all depends on how much the contacts are burnt.And the starter can just as badly spin the engine due to worn bushings, which are also located in the inside of the starter motor.And the last malfunction is when the starter itself is spinning, but at the same time it does not spin the engine at all. This malfunction can be caused due to the bendix, which you will need to change so that the engine starts to spin normally.Note!
For more information on how to check the starter for serviceability, you can find in the article entitled: "Checking the starter for serviceability"!Note!
Before proceeding with the repair, we note one important detail, this article on repair refers only to the starter model of which is "35.3708"!Disassembly:
1) At the beginning of the operation, unscrew the nut that is located closer to the starter motor with a wrench, and after unscrewing, remove the starter winding terminal from the pin of the contact bolt, removing the spring and two flat washers. Image - DIY repair of a classic vaz 2106 starter

2) Then unscrew the three screws that secure the retractor relay to the cover, and after unscrewing, carefully remove the relay while holding its armature.

3) After you held the armature thus it did not budge, and the retractor relay was neatly disconnected from it, put the relay aside and grasp the armature thereby remove the spring from it.

4) Next, grasp the anchor with your hand and pull it straight up, and when it comes out of engagement with the lever that holds it, calmly remove the anchor from the cover and thereby completely remove it.

5) Now, when the anchor is removed, use a screwdriver to unscrew the two screws that secure the cover to the electric motor and then detach this cover and set it aside.

6) After the cover is removed, continue to hold the electric motor and then remove from its central part, first by prying the retaining ring of the shaft with a screwdriver, and then the washer indicated by the arrow.

7) Next, unscrew the two tightening bolts with a wrench and then, as shown in the photo in the upper corner, separate the cover together with the main motor, it is also called the rotor, from the body.

8) Then remove all screws (only one screw is shown in the photo) that hold the stator windings.

9) Next, look into the inside of the stator and remove the insulating tube from there.

10) Now, when the insulating tube is removed, separate the stator itself and the cover in which several stator elements remain, which will later need to be removed as well.

11) Then turn over the cover with the stator elements as shown in the figure, and after turning it over, remove the jumper from the brush holder.

12) Then remove all stator brushes and their springs using a screwdriver.

Note!
When the brushes are removed, check them with a caliper and if their height is less than 12 mm, then replace these brushes with new ones!

13) Next, take a mandrel of a suitable diameter in your hands and use it to press out the rear bearing, some also call this bearing a bushing.

14) Now again take the cover with the rotor in it in your hands and then use the pliers to remove the cotter pin of the axis of the drive lever.

Note!
When the axle pin is removed, remove the drive arm axle itself with a thin screwdriver!

15) Next, remove the rubber plug from the body.

16) And after removing the plug, use a screwdriver to disengage the shoulders with the recesses that are present on the coupling, and when the shoulders are disengaged, remove the anchor itself, or as it is also called the rotor together with the coupling.

17) Then remove the lever at the end of which there are the very shoulders that you previously removed from the engagement with the clutch.

18) Next, using a screwdriver as a lever, move the thrust washer ... (Continued in paragraph 19)

19) And immediately behind it, slide and thereby remove the retaining ring while expanding it with two screwdrivers.

20) Now on the rotor shaft, remove the clutch itself.

21) Further, when all the details such as an anchor, it is a rotor, etc. To be removed from the housing, lay the housing as shown in the figure and then press the front bearing out of it using a mandrel.

Assembly:
The starter is assembled in the reverse order of removal.

Note!
When reassembling, remember a few features, firstly, if traces of light burning are found on the armature collector, then use a grinding sandpaper to clean the surface of the armature collector from these traces of burning. When everything is cleaned, rinse the collector surface with gasoline or alcohol, and then blow this collector with compressed air so that all small skin and debris is completely removed from the collector surface!

And also when assembling the starter, lubricate the spline part, the shaft journal with engine oil, as well as the gear that is present on the clutch itself and the bushings that are present in the starter caps! (If you do not know where all these parts and all these places are located, then look at the bottom of the heading "Troubleshooting of starter parts", it says everything in detail)

And when the starter is assembled, then using a vernier caliper, check the axial clearance of the armature shaft, to do this, first pull out the shaft completely and write down the resulting value, and then push in this shaft and also write down the resulting value, after comparing these two values, you will get the axial clearance of the armature , which should be no more than 0.5 mm!

Note!
Before starting, I will immediately note the word "Troubleshooting" which was spelled out in the title just above. Not everyone knows what it is and why this is needed for starter parts, we explain. Fault finding - in essence, if you read this word, you can already understand what it is about, that is, the title of this entry is deciphered like this: "Finding defects among the starter parts", this is what we will do now!

1) After the starter is completely disassembled, the first thing to do is take the stator in your hands and first check the condition of its windings, which should be in good condition and which should not have burn marks. And also check both poles of the stator, which should not have mechanical damage, as well as cracks, etc.

Note!
The poles at the stator, this is essentially the part that is located inside the stator itself, for example, one of the poles in the photo just above is marked with red arrows and the other blue! (But the stator housing itself must also be checked, in which case replace the stator itself with a new one)

2) Next, inspect one of the covers for cracks, and also take a closer look at the bushing indicated by the arrow, its wear is also not allowed.

3) Now take the anchor itself in your hands and also inspect it for damage, bumps, scoring, pay special attention to the shaft splines (the slots are indicated by the arrow) and also pay attention to the trunnion that is present on the same shaft.

4) Next, check whether the anchor of the solenoid relay (indicated by the blue arrow in a disassembled state) moves easily, and also check with an ohmmeter whether the contact bolts (indicated by the red arrow) are closed by the contact plate. (For what is an ohmmeter, see the article entitled: "What is an ohmmeter")

5) After that, inspect the clutch for defects, the gear teeth of this clutch, which are indicated by the arrow, should not have strong wear.

6) And finally, inspect the starter drive lever, on which there should also be no cracks, as well as traces of significant wear of the forks grooves. (Grooves are slots, slots, and joints)

Additional video clip:
If you did not understand something from the written article, then watch the video clip in which the process of replacing the starter bushings is shown, while the starter is almost completely disassembled and everything is clearly very clear, in general, see:

Video (click to play).