DIY Mazda 3 starter repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Mazda 3 starter repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Image - DIY Mazda 3 starter repair

The starter is one of the most important pieces of electrical equipment in a car. Without it, you will not be able to start the car, therefore, you will not go anywhere. Let's do without any prefaces and get down to business. And to the eternal question: "how to remove and replace the starter on the Mazda 3?" many novice motorists will be confused, and are unlikely to be able to answer.

But do not rush to get upset, it is not at all difficult to do this, the most important thing is not to invent anything yourself, but to adhere only to the actions that are prescribed in the instructions, and during the disassembly process do not lose all the nuts and bolts.

1. Repair of starters begins with disconnecting the ground wire from the negative terminal of the battery, and this is mandatory, so that later you do not have to change the wiring of the car.

2. After that, you need to mark the main electrical wire and disconnect the starter from it, it is assumed that you know the starter device, how it looks and where it is located. After that, mark the wire of that magnetic switch, which is thinner, and then disconnect it.

3. Go ahead - you need to unscrew the wire holders so that they do not interfere with you, and at the same time remember what kind of engine your car has.

4. If you have a C type engine, then you should remove the thermal protection plate (if, of course, your car has it), after that, using a wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the starter to the engine, having previously marked the sleeve for centering. If there is also a support, then you will have to remove it as well. After you have done all this, the starter can be pulled out.

5. Type F engine requires a different procedure. First, unscrew the three bolts that secure the structure, then remove the protective cover, and then disconnect the rear support and then pull it out.

6. Well, if you are the owner of a 16-valve engine, then you should remove the thermal protection by unscrewing two bolts, then remove the starter mountings, not forgetting to mark the location of the centering sleeve. Then you need to remove the front right wheel, remove the muffler manifold reinforcement from the engine housing, disconnect the rear engine support, and then remove and remove the starter from the engine compartment.

Video (click to play).

Image - DIY Mazda 3 starter repair

Now you know how you can fix any malfunctions of the starter, and then check if it works, and install it back using the instructions, only in the reverse order. The most common causes of starter breakdowns on Mazda 3 are listed and briefly described below.

• Starter bendix, in which, despite the fact that the starter is running, the motor does not crank. Sometimes it scrolls a few turns and the bendix slips. It may seem that the bendix cannot reach the flywheel, but modern Mazda 3 starters exclude this possibility. Replacing the bendix will cost about 800 rubles.

• The starter retractor relay is broken, and the starter is very weak and the contacts do not close. Thus, it will not be able to achieve the required power, therefore, it is necessary to change the solenoid relay. This service costs the same as the replacement of the bendix.

• Starter brushes worn out. This problem can be recognized in the same way as a breakdown of the solenoid relay, since they have similar symptoms. Starter brushes cost differently from 400 to 2000 rubles.

• Broken or worn bearings or bushings. At the same time, the starter does not turn or does it with some suspicious sounds. Often this becomes the cause of increased wear of various parts or overheating.If the bushings are not changed in time, then over time this will lead to more serious breakdowns, the repair of which will significantly exceed the replacement of the bushing, which, by the way, can be bought for only 400 rubles.

• Burnout of the winding on the starter. It is the result of improper operation, which also includes wear on the bushings. The replacement cost is about 1200 rubles.

A little video - repair of a starter on a Mazda 6 2.3l

The cars are equipped with starters with an electric motor with excitation from permanent magnets and with a planetary gear. These starters have no structural differences, there are only visual differences between the front cover and the solenoid relay, associated with the method of attaching the starters to the engines.

If, when the ignition key is turned to the Start position, the starter does not show signs of life, it is not always the fault of the starter itself. This section provides an algorithm for diagnosing such a malfunction.

You need a multimeter to get the job done.
We carry out the work with an assistant.

Sequence of execution
1. On vehicles with automatic transmission, make sure that the selector is in position N or P. Check the correct adjustment of the selector cable.
2. We check the fuse of the control circuit of the retractor relay. Replace the defective fuse. If the fuse blows again, there is a short in the solenoid relay control circuit which must be found and repaired.
3. Check the starter relay.
4. Check if the battery is charged. If necessary, charge this.
5. Check the connection of the wires to the starter terminals. If necessary, we clean the contacts and treat them with a special conductive grease.
6. Disconnect the wiring harness block from the control terminal of the solenoid relay.
7. We connect the multimeter in voltmeter mode to the disconnected wire and the ground of the car.
8. Ask the assistant to turn the ignition key to the Start position. The multimeter should show the voltage value (about 12V). If there is no voltage, check the ignition switch.
9. On vehicles with automatic transmission, check the automatic transmission operating mode sensor.
10. We check the electric control circuit of the retractor relay.
11. Checking the starter power supply circuit.
12. Remove the starter.

When checking, do not short-circuit the positive terminal of the battery cable to the starter housing.

13. Connect the negative terminal of the storage battery to the starter housing with one wire. The second wire, connected to the positive terminal of the battery, is connected to the terminal bolt 3 of the retractor relay, to which the starter wire is connected:

If the starter armature starts to rotate, it means that the starter motor is working properly. Otherwise, the brush assembly or anchor is faulty.

14. We connect the wire connected to the positive terminal of the storage battery to the terminal bolt 1 of the retractor relay. Using a screwdriver or other suitable metal object, we short-circuit the control terminal 2 and the contact bolt 1 of the solenoid relay. If there is a loud click and the starter armature begins to rotate, the retractor relay is working properly. If the relay does not pick up or picks up, but the starter motor does not start rotating, the relay must be replaced.

15. When the solenoid relay is activated, the drive should move along the starter shaft. If this does not happen, the drive arm is faulty. To check the overrunning drive clutch with a screwdriver, rotate the gear in different directions. In this case, the gear must rotate in one direction with the shaft, in the other - separately from it (the shaft remains stationary). Otherwise, the drive must be replaced. To replace the drive, we disassemble the starter.

- Remove the battery cover.
- Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
- Remove the mudguard.
- (Models with manual transmission) If necessary, remove the clutch slave cylinder.
- Remove the starter in the sequence of numbers indicated in the figure “Removing and installing starter”.
- Install in the reverse order of removal.

- Make sure the battery is fully charged.
- Rotate the crankshaft with the starter and make sure that the starter runs smoothly, without extraneous noise. - If the operation does not match the description, check the wiring, traction relay and ignition switch.

Fig. 1 Image - DIY Mazda 3 starter repair

- Make sure the battery is fully charged.
- Connect a voltmeter and an ammeter to the starter as shown in fig. 1

- Start the starter and check that it runs smoothly.
- Measure voltage and current while the starter is running.
* Rated voltage. 11 in
* Rated current. no more than 90 A
* If voltage or current is not as described, repair or replace starter components.

Fig. 2 Image - DIY Mazda 3 starter repair

Removal and installation of a starter (engines L3, LF):
1 - connector "B", 2 - connector “S”, 3 - bracket for wiring harness, 4 - starter.

Fig. 3 Image - DIY Mazda 3 starter repair

Removal and installation of a starter (engines ZY, Z6):
1 - connector "B", 2 - connector “S”, 3 - bracket for wiring harness, 4 - starter, 5 - bracket for wiring harness.

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Gerych112 06 Feb 2016

Hello everyone! People please tell me how to remove the starter engine 2.0. Maybe someone came across or who has a photo report if possible in more detail. I can't find any photos or videos on the Internet

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stasikirin 06 Feb 2016

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Gerych112 06 Feb 2016

Hello, before disassembling the machine, it would be nice to get a manual

There is a manual, but it only says where to unscrew what. I have little room for nothing

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stasikirin 07 Feb 2016

Hello, before disassembling the machine, it would be nice to get a manual

There is a manual, but it only says where to unscrew what. I have little room for nothing
Put it on the stumps and you can crawl from below normally!

Nothing complicated! Three bolts and terminals.

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alekseygorhkov 20 Mar 2016

In general, I just changed a non-working starter to a working used one. A new starter gasket was bought, as the old one just turned into dust.

By the way, you need to stock up on swear words right away if you are going to change the starter, because there is very little space for work and

just rip off all your hands and spend on unscrewing 3 bolts - 2 hours of time, one of which will break off. And then you will still think for 30 minutes how to open the protective cover of the power wire at the starter itself, so as not to break it, since you cannot see any fasteners on it - to be honest, I almost freaked out and was ready to just tear it off completely along with the wire to to the devil. And all this despite the fact that I worked in a heated garage with a good pit and tools. Even long surgical forceps came in handy - pull the wire latches out of the mounting holes.

When I removed the box and changed the front suspension - I had less mat in the garage. I ripped off all my hands.

Original new gasket Image - DIY Mazda 3 starter repair

Starter to be removed Image - DIY Mazda 3 starter repair

Image - DIY Mazda 3 starter repair

This is where you need to put a worker Image - DIY Mazda 3 starter repair

Starter mounting bolts - I broke off the upper part of the thread at one of the bolts, on which the wiring plate is attached (here is the number 9YA941003)

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aleksei968 10 Apr 2016

Image - DIY Mazda 3 starter repairAndrey1963 23 Dec 2017

Good afternoon everyone! Purchased Treshka 2007 2.0, there are no special problems yet, the only thing after the start-up is a bad sound: I think the bendix does not go away! I read all sorts of reports on removing the starter, something I don't want to break off bolts and contact groups in the cold! Has anyone had the experience of lubricating the starter shaft through an expired gasket, for example, pshik VDhoi and drip engine oil from a syringe.

Good afternoon everyone! Purchased Treshka 2007 2.0, there are no special problems yet, the only thing after the start-up is a bad sound: I think the bendix does not go away! I read all sorts of reports on removing the starter, something I don't want to break off bolts and contact groups in the cold! Has anyone had the experience of lubricating the starter shaft through an expired gasket, for example, pshik VDhoi and drip engine oil from a syringe.

do not lubricate over.it is necessary to remove the starter, clean everything from dirt and put the starter on a new gasket or sealant.

after the start-up, a bad sound: I think the bendix does not go away! automatic transmission is not a case? and then there is a metal ringing when starting a regular bug.

Image - DIY Mazda 3 starter repairAndrey1963 25 Dec 2017

Andrey1963, well done.

after the start-up, a bad sound: I think the bendix does not go away! automatic transmission is not a case? and then there is a metal ringing when starting a regular bug.

it’s like that for me - it doesn’t leave right away - I’m thinking of changing

Mazda 3 Axela. 1.6L ENGINE STARTER - REPAIR

This section provides a complete disassembly and diagnosis of all starter children. All parts are supplied as spare parts separately. Therefore, from the point of view of economy, it is more expedient to find and replace the faulty element, and not the starter assembly.

You will need a multimeter and a vernier caliper to get the job done.

1. Preparing the car for work (p. 73, “Preparing the car for maintenance and repair *).

2. Remove the starter (p. 305. "1.6 engine starter - removal and installation *).

3. Remove the solenoid relay (p. 306. "Solenoid relay for engine starter 1,6 - check and replacement *).

If it is necessary to replace only the brush assembly, the solenoid relay can not be removed, it is enough to unscrew the nut and remove the wire from its terminal.

7. Carefully remove the socket head and check the ease of movement of the brushes. If there is a jam, the brush assembly must be replaced.

If there is no resistance between any of the segments, the rotor must be replaced.

18. Using a multimeter in ohmmeter mode, we check the absence of a short circuit of the excitation winding on the rotor housing. The multimeter should show infinitely high resistance.

32. Inspect the guide bushing of the front starter cover.
The damaged bushing must be replaced.

33. Install the parts in reverse order. The drive travel stop ring is pressed against the ci support ring with pliers.

Mazda 3 Axela. STARTER ENGINE 2.0 L - REMOVAL AND REFITTING

The starter is secured with two bolts on the front left side of the cylinder block. We carry out the work on a viewing ditch or overpass.

1. Preparing the car for work (p. 73, “Preparing the car for maintenance and repair *).

2. Remove the engine compartment lower mudguard (p. 82, "Accessory drive belts - checking their condition and tension, replacing").

3. Press the latch and disconnect the wiring harness block from the control terminal of the retractor relay.

Install the starter in reverse order.

I understood, thanks, I have never climbed in Mazda with my hands (except for replacing some kind of light bulb), so I clarified))

As for GAZ, I have a 5VZ toyotomotor in the Volga, and in order to remove the starter, you need to hang the motor by unscrewing it from the pillows, radiator, etc. (on Toyota with this engine, by the way, the same) .. so it would be a bummer to change clothes and disassemble the pit, and see a similar situation.

By the way about the Volga, although it is OFFtop, but I have a fourth Volga, and only one had a problem with the starter (the notorious "dimes" had to be cleaned), but that Volga's mileage was over 200tkm.

In the Volga with a toyotomotor, I wanted to remove the starter when I changed the timing belt in order to prophylactically replace brushes, bushings, etc. I shook all the attachments (generator, air conditioner - changed bearings, in the generator - brushes).

I now have a ZF power steering, and with Borisov's power steering I had to surrender to Hydrolab to Alexey or Dima, they bring them to their senses once, but forever (probably, the whole GAZ confa was there).

those. when buying a new gearbox in the store, you bought it with a congenital defect, which is eliminated in the Hydrolab (i.e. it was possible with an inoperative power steering to call in Hydrolab and leave in an hour and a half, forgetting about the problem forever, or give it to them by the transport company for repairs) ...

Starter MAZDA 3 Remove the starter Mazda 3 2005