there is such a system in the interior of this clutch, the bearings are pressed against the springs of the springs, watch the video. when the starter turns the sprocket, the bearings engage with it and rotate the crankshaft after the engine has started, the bearings simply start to rotate. but sometimes it happens that the engine starts badly, especially when it starts to grab some bearings remain in engagement and you can hear such a strong knock or even a crunch, in principle, maybe one of the bearings just worked out or squeezed out the clutch wall a little and this may become a little askew, thereby causing a grinding noise, the more often such a knock or a grinding noise, the faster the clutch will come on, I drove while the starter did not stop completely zovodivat then changed it. just unscrew the side cover where start the generator several times there it will be seen or rather audible.
something I didn’t understand, so what’s wrong with this clutch? there seem to be no visible defects
I tried to do it myself and I got it thanks.
If there is any suspicion of a malfunction of the starter, I immediately remove it from the engine and throw it in the trash. I simply do not have time to repair such small things. Especially when the motorcycle season is in full swing and everyone needs to quickly be repaired and go about their business.
But, in especially rare cases, I still undertake the repair of starters when a rare model of a scooter comes across for repair for which it is difficult to find spare parts or when several faulty starters accumulate from which I then collect one.
By itself, repair or diagnostics does not present any particular difficulties, even for a beginner. And it will mainly consist in disassembling, washing, checking, cleaning the working surfaces of parts and assembling. But we will not be in a hurry with the repairs.Let's start with general questions, and touch on the topic of repair at the very end of the article.
Finding a starter on a scooter engine is very simple: remove the front plastic engine hood and seatpost, inspect the engine and find on it a small cylindrical part (approximately the same as in the photo) located perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the engine to which a thick power wire fits - this will be the starter.
On most scooter models, the starter is mounted on top of the engine just behind the cylinder. In rare cases, the starter is installed in front or below the engine.
If, when you press the start button, the starter does not turn, then this situation cannot always tell us about its malfunction. In addition to the starter itself, there are several elements in the scooter electrics that control its operation. Such as battery, relay, start button and power supply wires. And if at least one of these elements fails, a fully serviceable starter will not work.
Therefore, in order not to waste a lot of time and then do unnecessary work, we will not guess, but will act easier: we will go by the method of exclusion: we will connect the starter directly to the battery - bypassing the relay, the start button circuit and the standard power wires, thereby completely eliminating malfunctions in the elements responsible for the operation of the starter.
Without removing the starter from the engine - we are looking for a power terminal on its case and disconnect the wire from it. We remove the battery (charged) from the scooter, look for, ask someone or buy two pieces of thick copper wire. We connect the wires to the battery terminals. Then, the wire coming from the negative terminal of the battery is applied to the starter case, and the second wire - coming from the positive terminal of the battery - is applied to the starter power terminal
If the starter starts working, then it is fully functional and the cause of the malfunction must be looked for in the relay, start button or wires supplying power to it. If the starter does not work, then the malfunction lies in itself and it must be removed, disassembled and checked. It is possible that it can still be repaired and save a lot of money. After we found the starter and provided free access to it, we look for a terminal on its body to which the power wire fits and unscrew the wire from it. Then, we determine where the starter is attached to the engine housing, unscrew the mounting bolts and take it out of its seat.
Mounting bolts, in this case they are located at the end of the body
In this case, the starter is flanged and its mounting bolts are located at the base of the housing.
To facilitate dismantling, on some engine models, there is a special technological gap between the starter housing and the engine housing (depending on the engine model). We insert a flat screwdriver into it and loosen the starter with it.
In the starter device, in fact, there is nothing new and complex since the time the DC electric motor was invented. Which he actually is.
Inside the body there is a movable cylindrical element called a rotor (collective farm - an anchor). An insulated copper wire is wound on the rotor in a strictly defined order, which forms several independent coils, circuits, windings, poles, circuits - which, in fact, are the same. The ends of each of the coils have their own independent outputs in the form of lamellas (contacts) on the collector.
Inside the main body, two permanent magnets are glued in, exactly enveloping the rotor. Each of the magnets has a different pole N (north) S (south) in relation to each other. Who studied at school will understand ...
After you press the start button, the electric current from the battery will begin to pass through the power terminal, the brush, and then, passing through the lamellas of one and the rotor windings, it forms a constant magnetic field along the axis of the armature.
I think there is no need to explain that the magnetic field that generates a constant electric current has different polarities? So that's what I mean. Oh yes, the magnetic field of the rotor will begin to interact with the magnetic field of the permanent magnets and the armature will deflect by a certain degree. The collector will turn, the next pair of lamellas will come up to the brushes and the rotor will deflect again. Thus, it will rotate exactly until you lower the start button.
There is nothing special to break in the starter, and all its malfunctions consist in wear and tear, hanging brushes and contamination of the collector, which often happens due to engine oil entering the housing from the engine crankcase. It is worth noting that malfunctions associated with collector fouling and brush wear are typical for DC electric motors.
Worn brushes, as well as a dirty collector, prevent the passage of electric current through the brushes to the rotor winding lamellas, and therefore the starter stops working. In this case, to restore the starter's performance, we just need to clean and wash the collector and replace the brushes with new ones or make them ourselves (more on that later).
In addition to purely mechanical malfunctions associated with wear and contamination of conductive elements, there are a number of malfunctions associated with a short or interturn circuit of the rotor windings, as well as with a breakdown in the contact of the output of the windings with the collector lamella and burning of the wire insulation.
All these malfunctions are characterized by increased noise and heating of the starter during operation and a drop in its speed. If, after cleaning the collector and replacing the brushes with new ones, the starter does not turn well, heats up, buzzes, then most likely not everything is in order with the rotor windings. Either they shorted, struck the ground, or simply burned out. And there's nothing you can do about it.
We turn off the bolts tightening the body, there may be two of them, or maybe more, depending on the design. We pinch the shaft protruding from the body with our fingers and disconnect the halves of the body as carefully and slowly as possible.
We take out the rotor from the body and carefully inspect the collector and brushes. If the collector is dirty, then it must be cleaned and washed with clean gasoline.
Brushes in normal condition should be no shorter than 5-6 mm.
We put the rotor on some clean surface, preferably wooden, and use any suitable needle to clean out the dirt between the collector lamellas.
After stripping, we take a piece of some non-fluffy cloth, moisten it thoroughly in clean gasoline, wrap it around the collector and begin, as it were, to scroll the rotor collector in it. It is not necessary to rub the collector heavily, it will be enough just to wash it from dirt to approximately the same state as in the photo.
There are no problems with the rotor collector: they cleaned it, washed it dry and that's it. But what about worn-out brushes? They are not on sale and have never been, and a new starter is very expensive, what should I do? There is a way out: to make the brushes yourself, or rather not to make, but to remake from others.
For the manufacture of new brushes, a set of new brushes for the dynastarter of the Soviet motor scooter "Ant" is ideal for us. Such a kit costs only 150 rubles and includes two pairs of brushes, enough for exactly two starters. You can buy such a set at any store that sells spare parts for Soviet motorcycles. Why exactly from "Ant", and not from a drill, for example? Because ant brushes are designed for high current and very resistant to abrasion, and brushes from ordinary power tools are soft and quickly burn and wear out.
We take a brush, it is initially much larger than the original one and we grind it on all sides on emery so that it calmly goes into the nest and at the same time does not really hang out there.Ideally, you should try to grind the brush so that it sits in its nest as tightly as possible and at the same time walks in it without the slightest, even barely perceptible resistance.
We insert our freshly turned brush into the nest and check its mobility without fail.
We solder the wire of the homemade brush to the power terminal
We put our homemade brushes in place.
That's the whole secret and most importantly - with such home-made brushes, besides worth a penny, you can completely restore the starter's work. And for many, many seasons. And this has already been tested on more than one copy. At least I have never received any complaints about the operation of the starter with the brushes from the "Ant" implanted in it.
In order not to puff up for a long time and tediously with the installation of the rotor in the body - fix the brushes from extending in their nests with toothpicks, lubricate the rotor axis with some refractory grease, install the rotor in the body and remove the toothpicks. It will be much easier and faster this way, and most importantly, you won’t break or collapse anything.
And one more thing: if, after assembly, the starter will rotate in the other direction, do the following: unscrew the bolts tightening the case and turn the case with magnets 180 degrees relative to the second half of the case and the problem will go away.
It's easy to start the scooter motor: press the button that activates the scooter's electric starter. But what if you press on her, but all to no avail? Or if the crankshaft rotates, but at the speed of a wind turbine?
Don't play guessing game
How does it work? This is a type of DC motor: inside the case there is an armature, a brush assembly and a stator (see illustrations). An anchor is a group of windings (coils) evenly spaced around a rotating central shaft. They are connected to a cylindrical “nozzle” on the shaft (manifold), made up of numerous copper plate segments isolated from each other and from the shaft. Two copper-graphite contacts are pressed to the segments - brushes, through which voltage is applied to the windings. Two permanent magnets (stator) are fixed inside the starter housing, they form a magnetic field, which makes, in fact, the armature rotate.
It happens like this. Press the button - supply "plus" of power to one of the brushes (the second is permanently connected to the "minus" through the scooter frame). As soon as the current appears in the armature windings, the steel cores of the coils are magnetized; the wire is wound in such a way that the armature field "repels" from the stator magnets. The shaft has nowhere to go - it will turn and the brushes will come into contact with the next pair of armature segments. Then the process will be repeated. It's like a swing: swinging it, you increase your speed and energy with each next swing. At first it is easy to stop your pitching, but soon, try, get in the way - you will fly away! So the baby starter, having unwound, manages to move and rotate the crank.
An example of twisting the wire of the brush: A - correct; B - too tight
Now determine what is hindering this. Dismantle the starter and clean it from the outside (usually it is located so that there is enough dirt on the housing). Unscrew the screws securing the stator. Now - attention! While removing the housing, firmly hold the armature shaft in the front cover. The static magnets are extremely strong - if they drag the anchor behind them, the brush assembly may be damaged (at least, you will lose the springs of the brushes, and try to find a replacement for them). Therefore, having correctly "dismembered" the starter, carefully remove the anchor from the cover.Disassemble the brush assembly, but do not touch the positive contact and its current lead - it is firmly embedded in the cover. Wipe all parts of the starter with a swab dipped in alcohol - that's it! Acetone gasolines and similar solvents will damage the plastic in the structure and the insulation of the armature windings. And do not leave a single gram of dirt inside the starter: this is dust from the production of brushes, and it is conductive. If you miss it, it’s not even an hour for yourself to inflict a leakage of current, or even a short circuit.
Make sure that all parts are intact and in good working order: the brushes at the edges are not broken off, freely, but without distortions, move in the guide wells, the height from the working surface to the wire is at least 3 mm. Grasping the wire and brush, pull slightly on the assembly - rarely, but it happens that they are poorly fastened to each other. It is simple to regain strength: drop a mixture of Moment glue and powder from a pencil lead into the hole of the brush - and you can insert the wire into place. Stumbled upon contacts that have served their purpose? It doesn't matter either! In their place, it is permissible to implant brushes, for example, from a drill (sharpen the dimensions to the desired size). When choosing a "donor", the main thing is that the diameter of its collector is close to the starter one. This dimension determines the hardness (read - wear resistance) of the contact material. When mounting the brushes in places, do not twist their wires too tightly, moreover, loosen them a little so that they do not stand with a stake and do not interfere with the movement of the brush in the guide.
The springs, of course, must be intact, the coils must not be jammed. The height of the "spiral" is at least 9-10 mm. You can "cheer up" the hooked on a few millimeters by slightly stretching the turns. But it is safer this way: stick a plastic gasket on the spring support (thickness - shrinkage size). To replace the broken part, if it is not possible to find the original, wind it from the spring of a ballpoint pen. You will have to tinker: make a blank for winding, before starting work, anneal the wire on fire, and heat the finished part again and cool it in engine oil.
Another possible damage, outwardly indistinguishable, is a breakdown of the insulation of the windings to ground. An indirect sign: with a working battery and power circuit, the starter barely rotates the crankshaft. The test method is as follows: a 220 V control lamp should not light when connected to the network through any collector plate and armature shaft. But if you are not an experienced electrician, entrust the test to a specialist. "Two hundred and twenty" for the eyes is enough to kill an elephant! Don't leave the scooter an orphan.
Have you safely passed this stage? This means that the lethargy of the starter is hidden in the oxidation (burning) of the collector. Take a fine-grained glass-coated skin, wrap a knot with it and remove the damaged layer of metal with smooth (circular and without pressure!) Movements. It is unnecessary to bring the surface to the “mirror”, it is enough if there is no roughness of more than 0.3 mm on the segments.
There is also something else: the knocked brushes envelop the metal of the segments on top of each other and ultimately close the windings with each other. Well, remember what determines the speed of the anchor spin? That's the same - the number of coils! "Put them back in place" by cleaning the spacer grooves. If you notice that the collector is swinging on the shaft, be sure to fix it with a drop of glue (of the same "Moment"), otherwise the wires of the coils will soon break off.
It remains to check the "strength" of the stator magnets: insert a steel rod inside the housing, say, a screwdriver. If it is not at all easy to keep it in the center of the hole (it immediately sticks to the magnets) - order.
Having replaced or normalized the worn out, assemble the motor in the reverse order.Operate carefully with the brush assembly: with elastic plates (thickness 0.4-0.6 mm), sink both brushes into the wells to the maximum and insert the collector into place along these "guides", but without pressing. If the devil pulls you to "tap" the anchor, prepare new brushes! Lubricate the "tail" of the shaft, opposite the collector, with refractory grease, but only a little. And pay attention to the body-to-cover gasket. At the slightest hint of a loose joint, replace the seal, otherwise everything that has been "licked" inside will soon be clogged with road dust.
In addition to the electric motor, there is also a mechanical part in the starter, it is called an overrunning clutch. Its purpose: firstly, to transfer torque from the armature to the crankshaft - this is performed by a gear pair. Secondly, after starting the engine, disconnect the armature from the crank. The starter is designed for short-term operation (no more than 10-15 seconds for one activation). Continue to rotate the running scooter motor - the starts will fall apart in a matter of minutes. In order not to run into something like this, make sure the clutch is working properly. Remove it from the starter housing (if it is an 80-90 scooter) or from the variator compartment (modern model). Rotate the pinion counterclockwise - it should move along the shaft (axially) without jamming. Release the gear - a working clutch is "obliged" to return to its original position without delay.
And one more thing: shake the clutch - nothing should rattle inside. Having noticed any of this, disassemble and fix the mechanism. Slightly unclench and remove the retaining ring, then the support washer and the return spring with supports. Unscrew the gear from the shaft. Malfunctions can be caused by: contamination of the shaft and gear teeth, crushing or breakage of the spring, jamming of the centrifugal mechanism. You already know how to "treat" a spring. Remove the "stale" grease with a solvent (acetone, gasoline, etc. are suitable here), use a consistent and refractory one as fresh. The damaged spring "ring" of the centrifugal unit can be replaced with a similar one of a similar diameter, borrowed from an automobile oil seal. When reassembling, make sure that the retaining ring is firmly seated in the groove in the shaft and is "closed" by the support washer.
And a special case of starter powerlessness. The overrunning clutch, installed in the variator compartment, can stop the rotation of the electric motor if it itself gets jammed by the compartment cover. Oh, often would-be mechanics forget that between the cover and the crankcase there should be a gasket of the prescribed thickness, and not absent at all. The editors would like to thank the Moto-Help technical center, Moscow for their help in preparing the illustrations.
Checking the insulation of the armature windings (A), cleaning the collector (B), the circuit for checking the insulation between the segments and the ground (C).
If at one fine moment the starter refuses to start the engine, do not be discouraged, perhaps it can still be brought back to life. In most cases, the starter motor fails due to various types of dirt or wear on the brushes, even beginners can eliminate all these problems.
In order to be sure that it is the starter that is faulty and does not "want" to turn the engine, you can connect it directly to the battery (the battery must be charged), if the picture has not changed the starter is silent or turns bad, then the reason is in it.
It happens that during repairs on some scooter models they forget to put a gasket between the variator cover and the engine, thereby clamping the overrunning clutch (bendix), which leads to weak rotation of the starter, in order to eliminate this moment, loosen the bolts on the cover and try to start the engine, if the picture has not changed, then the reason is the starter.
Today we will consider such a starter, read about where the starter is and how to remove it here.
In order to disassemble the starter, we need to unscrew the two bolts on the starter cover and, holding the shaft with your hand, carefully remove the cover.
There are two permanent magnets inside the cover
After removing the shaft from the body, the first malfunction was discovered: one brush turned out to be broken off and its fragment was inside the body in the photo highlighted in red.
Second malfunction: severe wear of the brushes.
The third malfunction: severe contamination of the rotor collector, in order to eliminate this malfunction, we need to clean out all the dirt between the collector lamellas with a needle and then grind the collector with sandpaper.
Here's what you should end up with.
Next, we rinse everything well, preferably with alcohol, put new brushes (when installing new brushes, do not forget to correctly insert the wiring into the special grooves in the housing), lubricate the bushings in which the rotor rotates with refractory grease and assemble the starter.
After assembling the starter, it is advisable to check it, for this: we connect the starter through an ammeter to the battery and look at the idle current, it should be approximately the same as in the photo. The no-load current for different models of starters can differ significantly.
If, after all that has been done, your starter is bad, rotates, heats up, the idle current is too high, then most likely the rotor is faulty, which can be changed to a new one or rewound.
Never use corundum sandpaper to clean the collector. Glass only. In the theory of electrical devices, this point is specially stipulated - the electrical contacts are copper, silver cannot be cleaned with corundum cloth. Better with a file, a file, but not corundum. Corundum will enter the copper of the collector and will remain there forever, abrading the brush. This phenomenon is similar to dropping soap into sand and trying to rinse it off. At the lectures on electrical devices, the teacher explained this to us with a convincing example: at the Arsenal plant, for the manufacture of lenses for objectives, a long glass cylinder was cut into thin discs with a copper circular saw without teeth, but its rim was sprinkled with diamond chips. As the disk wears out, decreases its diameter, the density of the diamond at the periphery of the disk increases - diamond chips were not removed, but “moved” to the center. As a result, cutting even improved.
If you are going for best contents like I do, just pay a
when removing the starter from the chain Chinese, the oil must be drained.
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Trouble! The spirits of the realm of the starter attacked the country of Gear. An indistinct chain tied their thin neighborhood. the chain collapsed. war is inevitable.
Well, seriously, in winter the starter began to knock, that is, crackling and bumps during starting in cold weather. Initially, he sinned on the overrunning clutch and wanted to change everything in order to avoid complete breakdown.
But I completely forgot about the connecting link of the starter and the overrunning clutch - the chain.
In general, the starter thundered more and more every day, and one day it simply stopped working. More precisely, the starter was spinning, but the engine remained motionless. Again I thought it was a freewheel clutch, but no.
When I removed the lid, I saw that the chain had somehow come off. Without attaching importance to this, I changed the overrunning clutch (by the way, I installed the clutch from the Alpha moped, it is exactly the same).
I put on the chain, collected everything (by the way, I didn't really see any signs of wear on my own clutch, with the exception of little things, but not the point). Everything is assembled, delivered, the starter spun the engine and - lo and behold! - again starting from the button, and not the convulsive jabbing of the poker.
But the happiness was short-lived, and soon history repeated itself: the starter turns stupidly, but the engine does not.
When I took off the generator cover again, I was quite surprised to say the least! This time, the chain was just broken! How. Kaaaaak. Take a look at this great workmanship!
The chain, as it turned out, is made of metal, which can be easily cut with pliers or sawed with a nail file, in general, sadness is a misfortune.
Without hesitation, I returned to my donor - the motor from Alpha. I removed the timing chain from it, which was significantly superior in quality to the YX 150 starter chain.
You feel the whole tragedy of the situation. Chain from Alpha, which is better in quality than Pitov's.
The timing chain from Alpha was riveted and shortened to the required number of links, but before that I decided to compare the chains and see how much the original starter chain stretched from the pit. and then my heart attack was repeated!
Even with a rough comparison, it is clear how much the chain is stretched (it is lower). After rough measurements, it was found that the chain was stretched over a period of about 150 hours by more than 1.5 cm! It’s not that at any gate, but in general. I have no words.
Outcome: to all, all, all owners of motors with a starter! I recommend changing the starter chain to a timing chain immediately after purchase, at least a standard one, and preferably D. I. D., especially since they are on sale, and finding them is not a problem. After all, who knows, maybe you will not be as lucky as me, and the broken chain will stop the generator on the move, kill it and break the inner cover of the crank chamber.
With the development of trade relations between Russia and China, in addition to traditional knitted goods and consumer electronics, various auto and motorcycle equipment began to be massively imported to our country. And since the domestic motorcycle industry was in a recession, the new items came to the liking of motorcycle enthusiasts, and began to be massively purchased for their own needs.
Classic look of the Alpha moped
Of particular interest is the ALPHA moped with an air-cooled engine, which is sold on the territory of the Russian Federation as "Alpha 110ss" or "Alpha 49". The numbers in the title indicate the displacement of the engine:
49cc 4-stroke air-cooled engine cm, with a capacity of 4.5 hp;
110cc four-stroke air-cooled engine cm, with a capacity of 7 hp.
Mopeds differ from scooters in their external resemblance to motorcycles, although they represent a separate class. Nevertheless, the combination of technical parameters, ease of do-it-yourself maintenance and low operating cost made this moped the sales leader in the Russian motorcycle market.
For reference: in China, several manufacturers are engaged in assembling the ALPHA model. Among them are Horse, Chong Qing Bull, WONJAN, Omaks and a number of others. In Russia, such companies as AVM and SMoto are also engaged in the assembly of mopeds. In this case, the wiring diagram of the Alpha moped is identical regardless of the place of assembly.
Unfortunately, the suppliers of motor vehicles do not always take into account the peculiarities of the performance of a particular type of vehicle, assuming that the low price is more important. In particular, most of the mopeds coming to Russia under the ALPHA brand are not designed for our climatic and road conditions.
The original wiring diagram of the Alpha moped with 49 and 110 cc engines. cm
This is manifested in the following:
Most mopeds are operated off-road (in rural areas, for trips to nature, fishing, etc.). And factory tires, cast rims, springs and shock absorbers are not designed for such loads;
The quality of gasoline and oil is also far from ideal, which affects the performance of the moped;
The moped does not provide for operation at subzero temperatures.
Tip: The wiring of the Alpha moped especially suffers from the harsh climate, since its insulation is made of cheap plastic. At negative temperatures, it becomes brittle and destroyed. Experienced owners replace it with rubber-insulated wiring after purchase.
In the same way as wiring on the Alpha moped, other "diseases" of the Alpha mopeds are cured with the help of replacement. In particular:
Factory tires are replaced with more durable tires;
Alloy wheels are being replaced by traditional spoke rims;
Shock absorbers are reinstalled from domestic motorcycles.
Unlike domestic motorcycles and mopeds, Alpha already in its basic version has a number of advantages:
Electronic 12V ignition;
Electric starter;
Electronic tachometer in the instrument panel.
Alfa moped wiring with an electronic switch in the ignition system
For reference: electronic ignition ensures trouble-free starting of the engine and its stable operation in all operating modes. The simple scheme and the ease of replacing failed components with your own hands greatly simplify the use of the vehicle.
The moped uses a circuit with a battery power source. The manufacturer does not recommend its operation without a battery, and the wiring diagram for the Alpha moped is additionally equipped with a relay-regulator (see also the wiring diagram of the UAZ 31512).
Alpha wiring protected from voltage surges
The six-coil generator also does its job well:
Maintains voltage throughout the entire engine speed range;
Provides the work of the head light and dimensions while driving.
For reference: the factory instructions do not allow the installation of additional lighting partitions. It is also forbidden to use headlamps on a moped that exceed the power specified in the technical documentation.
The presence of informative devices makes the operation of the moped quite simple, which attracts many buyers. Moreover, what is typical, a fairly large number of newcomers decide to buy a two-wheeled vehicle, choosing exactly Alpha mopeds.
Wiring diagram on an Alpha moped with an electronic tachometer
The simplicity of driving the moped also contributes to its popularity. All the main functions of the vehicle are placed on the steering wheel, and their status is displayed on the instrument panel:
Speed mode;
Engine speed;
Battery charge state;
Daily and total mileage (see also the Ural motorcycle wiring diagram).
Photo of the dashboard on the Alpha moped
Like any vehicle, Alpha mopeds need routine maintenance, the essence of which boils down to:
Replacement of parts and assemblies, whose resource has worked out;
Setting up and restoring the factory parameters of the main components and assemblies;
Visual inspection of the moped for breakdowns.
Chinese engines quite confidently "care for" 20,000 km on our domestic fuels and lubricants without breakdowns and piston group bulkheads. The main thing is to change the oil in a timely manner, especially during the break-in period.
If you do not operate the moped in harsh conditions (winter, cross-country cross-country, etc.), then all oil seals and rubber seals will also last a long time.
Tip: Change the air filter often. This will save the carburetor and make it easier to start the engine in all operating modes.
VIDEO
Video (click to play).
Chinese-made mopeds are simple and convenient to operate. We hope that the video in this article, along with the original wiring diagrams, will help you maintain your two-wheeled vehicle. And the tips will help you avoid mistakes (see also the Java 638 wiring diagram).
