DIY MTZ starter repair

In detail: do-it-yourself MTZ starter repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In this article, we will tell you how to repair a starter with your own hands, using the example of repairing a starter BATE 426.3708

You will need:
socket head "13", knob, screwdriver, keys "10", "8".

The stop ring is secured with a retaining ring installed underneath.

Insulated brushes A are soldered to the terminals of the stator windings, and non-insulated brushes B are soldered to the brush holder. When removing the brush holder, insulated brushes remain on the terminals of the stator winding.

Four field windings are fixed in the starter housing.

This is how the details of the starter drive look like: 1– gear; 2 – drive lever; 3 – overrunning clutch; 4-Belleville washer.

Disassemble the traction relay only when it needs to be repaired.

The traction relay coils are installed in a non-separable case, therefore, if they are damaged, replace the traction relay assembly.

41. Check the condition of the stator winding. To do this, turn on the test lamp in the 220 V AC circuit and connect the wire to one of the terminals of the stator winding, close the other end of the circuit to the case. If the lamp is on, it means that the insulation of the winding is damaged. Replace winding or stator. Check the second winding in the same way.

When testing with 220 V, be careful not to touch live parts of the starter with your hands.

The stator windings can be checked with a megohmmeter. Connect one contact to the terminal, the other to the stator housing. The resistance of the windings must be at least 10 kOhm. If it is less, replace the stator.

42. Examine the anchor. If the collector is dirty or there are risks, scratches on it, sand it with fine glass cloth. If the collector is very rough or if mica is protruding between the plates, grind the collector on a lathe and then grind with fine glass cloth. The runout of the core relative to the shaft journals should not exceed 0.08 mm. If the runout is greater, replace the armature.

Video (click to play).

43. If there is yellow plaque from the bearing on the armature shaft, remove it with a fine sandpaper, otherwise it will cause the pinion to jam on the shaft. If there are scuffs and nicks on the surfaces of the journals and shaft splines, replace the armature.

44. Check the reliability of soldering the leads of the armature winding to the collector plates. Inspect the winding at the ends of the armature: the diameter of the winding should be less than the iron package of the armature. If the diameter is larger, replace the anchor

45. Check the condition of the armature winding using a test lamp in the AC 220V circuit. Connect the wires to the collector plate and the armature core. If the lamp lights up, then there is a short circuit of the armature winding or collector plate to ground. In this case, the anchor must be replaced.

The armature windings can be checked with a megger. Connect one of its contacts to the collector, the other to the armature core. The resistance of the windings must be at least 10 kOhm. Replace the armature with less resistance.

46. While holding the overrunning clutch, try to turn the starter gear in both directions: it should rotate freely only clockwise. If the gear turns in both directions, replace the drive.

47. Slide the starter drive onto the armature shaft. It should move freely, without jamming along the splines of the shaft.

48. If the drive parts are badly worn or damaged, replace the drive. If nicks are found on the lead-in part of the gear teeth, grind them with a fine-grained small-diameter emery wheel.

49. Inspect the manifold side starter cover and intermediate support. If cracks appear on these parts, replace them. Also inspect the bushings in the cover and support, in which the armature shaft rotates.If severe wear or mechanical damage is found, replace the cover or support with defective bushings.

50. Inspect the bushing pressed into the clutch housing. If the bushing is worn out or there are scuffs or pits on it, replace the bushing.

The bushing is located in a blind hole in the clutch housing and is therefore difficult to access. To remove the bushing, screw a suitable size tap into the bushing until it stops at the bottom of the hole, as if cutting a thread in the bushing. With further rotation of the tap, the sleeve will be pressed out of the hole.

52. Check the movement of the brushes in the holders. The brushes should move easily without jamming. Check that the brush holders are securely fastened: they must be firmly attached.

53. Holders of insulated brushes must not be connected to ground. Check this with a test lamp.

54. Check the force of the springs pressing the brushes using a dynamometer. To do this, insert the armature into the cover from the drive side, install the housing and the brush holder

55. Insert the brushes into the brush holders. At the moment of separation of the spring from the brush, the force should be in the range of 9.0-11.0 N (0.9-1.1 kgf).

56. Check the resistance of the traction relay windings with an ohmmeter. The resistance of the retraction winding should be within 0.52–0.59 Ohm (dashed red lines), and the holding one - 0.725–0.795 Ohm (solid yellow lines) at an ambient temperature of +15 to +25 ° С. The traction relay armature must move freely in the housing, without jamming.

Simultaneously with checking the resistance of the winding, check if the contact plate closes the contact bolts of the traction relay. If the ohmmeter shows infinity, then either there is an open circuit in the winding, or the plate does not close the contact bolts. In the first case, the traction relay must be replaced.

Starter repair is a troublesome business, but by doing it yourself, you can save your family budget. During operation, the starter is constantly under heavy loads, and is exposed to dust, moisture, dirt and oil, which contributes to the rapid destruction of the insulation of the electric motor and breakdowns of the drive mechanism.

We have already written about some of the signs of a starter malfunction and about checking and repairing the retractor relay. Another malfunction that leads to the repair of the starter is the slip of the overrunning freewheel clutch - bendix, resulting from contamination of the grooves and rollers. In this case, when the starter is turned on, the noise of a rotating armature is heard, and the crankshaft is in place (this is good shown in instruction video for starter repair at the bottom of the page). Repair is indispensable here.

You can check the bendix directly on the car without removing the entire unit. For this you need:

Include transmission;
Depress the brake pedal;
Start starter.

If at the same time you hear the sound of the armature rotation, then the bendix is slipping and needs to be repaired or replaced with a new one.

To begin with, you can try to carry out a small repair and remove the contamination of the bendix without disassembling the starter. For this:

remove the starter from the car (Video instruction at the end of the article);
immerse it whole in a container of gasoline and leave it there for several hours;
without removing the starter from the container, turn the clutch gear several times for better flushing of the grooves;
take out and dry the starter.

If, as a result of such a "not tricky" repair, the malfunction is not eliminated, you will have to remove and disassemble the overrunning clutch.

Starter repair with disassembly of the bendix is performed in the following order:

Before disassembling the bendix, first of all, it must be removed from the anchor (look at the video below).
Then very carefully flare the folded edge of the casing and remove it from the outer race.
Then remove the springs and stretch them so that when they are free, they increase by about 10 mm.
Next, it is necessary to wash all the parts of the bendix, the grooves of the outer cage in gasoline, and clean out the nicks and burrs on the working surfaces.
Do not forget to lubricate all structural elements with engine oil before assembly.

If you properly roll up the edges of the casing, then such a repair of the starter will extend the life of the bendix for several more years.

A car starter is a sophisticated electrical device that can be used to start the engine by simply turning the ignition key. Any of them is designed for hundreds of thousands of successful launches, and with proper care, it can last a long time, starting a car engine without problems in any conditions. The lack of timely diagnostics and replacement of worn parts can lead to such a situation that far from home or a car service, it will simply fail, delivering a huge number of problems to the car owner.

It is worth noting that although an independent starter repair is possible, its implementation requires experience and a set of elementary tools, which are simply not at hand in a long trip. Accordingly, repairing the starter motor may not be possible, which is almost guaranteed to immobilize the vehicle. But it is far from always impossible to start the engine due to a malfunction of the starter, and before undertaking its "repair", you should pay attention to other components - for example, a flywheel or a storage battery. In addition, it is impossible to repair a starter with your own hands if you do not know how it works.

At the heart of any starter is a powerful short-lived electric motor.

Starter operation when trying to start the car is as follows:

after turning the ignition key, voltage begins to flow to the windings of the electric motor;
the bendix pushes out the gear, which is connected to the flywheel;
after a successful crankshaft spin, the bendix gear is thrown back to its original position, at the same time the electric circuit is opened and the starter stops working.

Despite the fact that there are several types of starters, their electrical part is the same, and the only differences are in the mechanisms for automatic decoupling from the flywheel. The friction damper may also differ. In addition to the classic design, the most widespread is a starter with a planetary gearbox - it is installed on diesel and powerful gasoline engines. Such designs have some advantages over classic options:

more compact dimensions;
increased efficiency;
easier start of the motor with a weak battery charge;
this starter requires less starting current, which increases the reliability of starting in cold weather.

Of course, a more complex design makes it much more difficult to repair the device yourself.

A qualitative check of this unit is impossible without dismantling it. It is best to carry out work in a pit, which will provide the ability to move freely under the car. A standard set of wrenches will be required from the tools, and the presence of socket wrenches with a flexible extension will greatly simplify the task. Dismantling is carried out in several stages.

The terminals are removed from the storage battery.
Electrical cables are removed from the pins of the solenoid relay and terminals.
The motor protection is dismantled.
After unscrewing the nuts that secure the starter to the engine block, it can be removed.

Carrying out periodic control of the brushes, you can timely notice a critical decrease in their height, which should not be less than 12 mm. To get to the brushes, unscrew the screw securing the contact wires and squeeze the spring - after that they can be freely removed. After measuring the length, a decision is made to install new ones or return the old ones to their place. As practice shows, if the starter is already dismantled, and new brushes are in stock, it is better to replace them. It should be understood that replacing the starter brushes is an operation that must be performed regularly, especially with frequent engine starts.

This is a more laborious process than removing the brushes.Initially, it is required to remove the washer from the axle and unscrew a pair of tie bolts. After disconnecting the casing of the device, you will have to remove the tubes of insulation of the screed bolts from it. Now you should evaluate the external condition of the collector and the windings. There should be no obvious black marks on them, as well as on the collector itself. If they are still there, then it is advisable to replace the collector, although it can be cleaned with fine-grained emery paper as a temporary measure.

To do this, you will have to get the anchor out of the case. To get to it, you must remove the washer from the axis of the anchor itself, strip the axis of the lever and knock it out - after that it will be possible to remove the anchor along with its drive. The clutch drive lever is removed and the free rotation of the gear is checked by hand: it should be completely free in one direction, and completely blocked in the opposite direction. Chips, and even more so chips should not be detected. If free rotation is difficult or impossible, and there are traces of wear on the teeth, the coupling together with the gear are replaced with new ones - it is unacceptable to operate such a device.

In the process of gradual disassembly of the starter, using an ohmmeter, the windings of the starter itself and the armature are tested for the presence of traces of short circuits. Checking the starter armature is mandatory, since then disassembling it for the sake of this is quite problematic. Reassembling the assembly should be done carefully and slowly. Before that, all surfaces are thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt, and plastic parts are necessarily lubricated with one of the special lubricants, for example, lithol. All metal parts, which are in excess in the starter, are treated with engine oil. How you can perform high-quality and self-diagnosis is shown in the video:

Since the bendix gear, working in tandem with the flywheel, has a huge load, they are the most common cause of failures when starting the engine. As a rule, the fact that the problem is with the gear is indicated by the periodic refusal of the starter to turn the crankshaft or its rotation too slow, not enough to start. Cracking or frequent clicks are often heard. To make sure that this is exactly the problem, a visual inspection of these nodes will help. If only the teeth on the flywheel are worn out, intermittent starting problems arise when the gear teeth fall into this pit and the starter turns idle.A fairly common situation is such a moment - the starter clicks, but the crankshaft does not spin, or it occurs at an extremely low speed, clearly insufficient for starting. Before starting a starter repair with your own hands, you should definitely find out the reason for this behavior. There may be several of them:

seized motor shaft or bushing;

short circuit in the windings;

the stator touches the "+" of the rotor.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to visually diagnose any of the above reasons, and the starter will have to be removed. Before checking the starter, it should be thoroughly cleaned of accumulated dust and dirt. If problems are found with the shaft, tighten or replace it. In some cases, you can try to center it. Alignment will also help if the rotor touches the stator. A short circuit is easily identified by burnt contacts and a characteristic smell - if it is possible to replace the starter, it is better to do this, or give the damaged device to professionals.A little less often, you can encounter such a situation when clicks or crackling in the starter are heard after starting the engine. Among the main reasons for this phenomenon are the following:

discharged battery, as a result of which the holding winding does not receive the proper level of power supply and cannot create a strong magnetic field to fix the armature;

open or short circuit in the holding winding.

To confirm or refute these versions, a starter test with a multimeter is required.If the test is negative, a possible cause may be burnt-out pins. The relay clicks, but there is no contact between the motor and the battery. This problem is characterized by periodicity - contact may occasionally appear.To protect yourself from major repairs to the starter or its complete replacement, you should be more attentive to the device that is already working. It rarely happens that it suddenly fails. This is usually preceded by several signs. An attentive and experienced driver knows not only how to check a removed starter, for example, on a battery, but can also accurately determine when a breakdown is approaching in order to promptly and at minimal cost to eliminate an impending problem. For example, timely replacement of the starter bushings will help to avoid the need to replace the starter itself in the future.Along with timely diagnostics and repairs, you need to follow the basic rules for the safe operation of the starter:

it is not allowed to use it to move a car over short distances;

attempts between unsuccessful starts of the motor should alternate with 30-second pauses, and the time of continuous operation of the device should not exceed 10-15 seconds.

Failure to comply with these rules and banal carelessness during the operation of the car can lead to the need for replacement, which will cost a fairly large amount, depending on the installed modification of this device.

Belarus tractors MTZ-80, MTZ-82, MTZ-82.1, MTZ-1221, 1523, MTZ-892, YuMZ, T-40. Agricultural machinery: plows, cultivators, walk-behind tractors, mowers, seeders

SPARE PARTS FOR TRACTORS

ADJUSTMENT OF MTZ TRACTORS ___________________

DIESEL ENGINE PARTS ___________________

SPARE PARTS CATALOGS MTZ ___________________

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF TRACTORS ___________________

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT BASED ON MTZ AND ATTACHED EQUIPMENT ___________________

AGRICULTURAL MACHINERY AND EQUIPMENT ___________________

Recommendations for the repair of the MTZ-82.1 generator

If, at the rated crankshaft speed of the MTZ-82.1 diesel engine, the ammeter shows a discharge current, this indicates a weak tension in the alternator belt, an open wire in the power supply circuit of the excitation winding, oxidation of the clamps of the sub-connecting wires.

This malfunction may also be the result of an interturn short circuit or breakage of turns in the excitation winding, short circuit of the stator winding to the case, breakdown of diodes of reverse or direct polarity of the rectifier.

A large charging current can be affected by a malfunction of the battery when the plates are short-circuited, as a result of which the internal resistance of the battery decreases.

Noise and knocking in the generator indicate a loosening of the nut fastening the generator drive pulley, destruction of ball bearings or wear of their seats, as a result of which the rotor touches the stator.

To check the 464.3701 generator on the tractor, power consumers are turned on, the diesel engine crankshaft speed is set close to the nominal, a voltammeter is connected between the “+” terminal and the unpainted place of the generator case and, smoothly increasing the load current to 30 A, the voltage value that should be not less than 12.5 V.

If the generator voltage significantly differs from the nominal or is absent when the battery is disconnected, the generator is removed for inspection and replacement.

The MTZ-82.1 generator is checked as follows. Pre-check the serviceability of the main elements of the generator using a control lamp with a voltage of 12 V,

To do this, remove the rear plastic cover and the integral device, release the leads of the excitation coil and the additional rectifier from the bolts of the terminal panel.

Then they start checking for a short circuit in the diodes or between the windings and the generator case (Fig. 11).

Rice. 11. Schemes for checking the generator of the MTZ-82.1 tractor for short circuit

a - diodes of the rectifier unit; b - stator windings and reverse polarity diodes; in - diodes of direct polarity; d - diodes of an additional rectifier; d - excitation winding on the generator case; 1 - generator case; 2 - terminal "+"; 3 - terminal "Ш"; 4 - outputs of the phases of the rectifier unit; 5 - storage battery; 6 - terminal "D"; 7 - terminal of the output of the end of the excitation winding; 8 - output terminal of the beginning of the excitation winding; 9 - control lamp

In the event of a short circuit of diodes, a winding or a breakdown on the case, the test lamp should light up. In case of defects in the insulation of the windings and malfunctions of the diodes, the generator is replaced. The generator is tested on control test stands.

First, check the voltage generated by the MTZ-82.1 generator without load. It must be at least 12.5 V at a rotor speed of no more than 1400 min-1.

Then, the voltage generated by the generator under load is monitored at a load current of 36 A and a rotor speed of 3000 min-1. It must also be at least 12.5 V.

To check the integral device, the load current is reduced to 5 A, and the rotor speed is set to 3000 ± 100 min-1.

When the seasonal adjustment switch (PSR) is set to the "L" (summer) position, the voltage generated by the generators should be 13.2-14.1 V.

When the PPR is set to the "З" (winter) position, the voltage should be 14.3-15.2 V. In case of deviations from the specified limits, the integral device is replaced.

Malfunctions of the starter of the MTZ-82.1 Belarus tractor

Periodic switching on and off of the traction relay of the MTZ-82.1 starter without rotating the shaft (repeated clicks are heard) indicate insufficient voltage supplied to the starter.

If the starter motor works and the diesel shaft does not rotate, this indicates a malfunction of the clutch mechanism (overrunning clutch rollers slip).

A screeching noise when the starter is turned on indicates a violation of the adjustment of the clutch mechanism and the traction relay. The operation of the starter traction relay in the absence of rotation of the armature indicates the burning of the relay contacts.

If, when scrolling the MTZ-82.1 diesel crankshaft, an extraneous noise or grinding is heard in the starter, this indicates that the anchor touches the stator shoes due to wear of the sliding bearing bushings (liners) or the bent armature shaft.

Failure to turn off the starter after starting the diesel indicates that the contacts of the starter relay PC502 or the contacts of the traction relay are baked. The starter (without removing it from the tractor) is checked using a portable device.

To check, the wire leading to the starter is removed from the battery, and an external shunt "Ш" from the voltammeter kit is put on the positive terminal, connecting it to the device.

They turn on the top gear and the tractor is reliably braked. After making sure that the fuel supply is turned off, turn on the starter for 5-10 s and observe the readings of the voltmeter and ammeter, which are compared with the data below.

The main indicators of the starter 24.3708 of the MTZ-82.1 tractor

- armature rotation frequency, min-1 not less - 5000
- consumed current, A, no more - 150
- voltage at the terminals, V - 11.5 +0.5

- consumed current, A, no more - 1700
- terminal voltage, V, no more than - 8.5
- maximum braking torque, Nm, not less - 68.5
- rated power at a voltage of 12 V, kW - 4 ± 0.4

Low voltage values during testing indicate a discharged battery or its malfunction, including oxidation of the terminals.

When the battery terminals are oxidized, especially if a white coating of lead oxide appears on them, which does not conduct current, a voltage drop occurs, which negatively affects the operating conditions of the MTZ-82.1 starter, on starting the diesel engine.

The small amount of current consumed by the starter indicates large transition resistances in its external circuit (contact group of the electromagnetic relay, output terminals).

A large amount of current consumed by the starter indicates an inter-turn short circuit of the armature or starter windings, the absence or thickening of grease in the armature shaft bearings.

If the armature rotates during the check, this indicates a malfunction of the clutch mechanism. In all cases of failure detection, the starter is replaced.

Starter tests are carried out on control test stands. The stands have special devices for measuring the braking torque of the starter.

The tests are carried out first in idle mode and then in full braking mode. These tests should be in accordance with the above values.

One of the most important units in the MTZ-80 tractor is the starter. In order for the MTZ-80 starter to serve you for a long time, you need to monitor it - it must be clean, you need to check the fasteners, as well as the condition of the terminals. Due to the fact that the starter consumes a lot of current, great attention should be paid to the circuit, because even small resistances in it will lead to a huge drop in voltage and power. Therefore, starter repair or routine inspection is very important and must be done constantly.

Usually, an inspection of the starter of the MTZ-80 tractor is carried out after three thousand hours of operation. To do this, it is removed and cleaned of dust and dirt, the protective cover is removed, the condition of the brushes is checked. If you see that the collector is dirty, clean it with a cleaning agent. If the collector is burnt, clean the burnt place with sandpaper. It is also worth paying attention to the force of the spring pressure on the brushes, as well as whether the starter brushes move freely.

Remove the relay cover and observe the condition of the contacts of the pull-in relay. If the contacts are burnt, clean them.

In the event that the starter in the MTZ-80 tractor has broken down, follow the steps that the site recommends:

- Clean the outside and inside of the case from dirt and dust.

- Cut the collector to the minimum depth.

- Sand the manifold with sandpaper.

- Pay attention to the condition of the flywheel and pinion drive.

- Use a soldering iron to clean out the teeth.

- Replace very old parts with new ones.

After completing the steps indicated above, reassemble the MTZ-80 starter and adjust it. After that, at idle, check the build quality.

This article is for those who want to fix a starter with their own hands. For this we need: two thick wires, a set of keys and heads.

The starter motor plays an important role in the ignition of the engine. The electric armature, rotating, transmits the torque to the flywheel, thereby driving the engine itself.

To check and repair the starter, you must remove it. You can find it near the flywheel. Now let's start checking it. We take two thick wires and connect them to the starter. We connect the minus of the wire to the ground, and we simultaneously connect the plus of the wires to the control and free contact of the solenoid. In this case, you need to firmly hold the starter, which should "show" the drive gear and begin to rotate.

If a knot does not work, it doesn’t mean that it needs to be replaced! First you need to check it, maybe not everything is so sad! Let's take a look at the main breakdowns of a gear starter.

First. Turning the ignition key - the starter is silent.

This could be a problem in the solenoid relay. Possibly pennies are burnt or stuck. First, remove the starter, then disassemble the retractor. If the pennies are burnt out, it is necessary to replace them, but if everything is in order with them, it is enough just to clean them with sandpaper.
There may also be a snag in the terminals. It is necessary to check if they are well tightened, if there is no oxidation. In this situation, clean the terminals with sandpaper, or replace them with new ones, tighten the bolts.

Second. The retractor relay is activated, but the engine cannot turn, or it can - but slowly.

In this situation, first you need to check the battery charge, if it is discharged, charge it.
The winding of the armature or starter may be punctured, or the brushes may be stuck. It is necessary to restore the insulation, or it is best to replace the winding itself, or the whole armature. Check the condition of the brushes - if necessary, replace with new ones.

Third. The starter motor turns, but the engine does not turn.

In this situation, the bendix is faulty and needs to be replaced.

If you are afraid that you will not be able to cope, then it is better for you to turn to experienced specialists for detailed advice. Today, a large number of companies offer repair services at the most affordable prices. For the period when the unit will be repaired, you may be offered in return your starter from the exchange fund, so that your equipment does not stand idle in vain. We wish you good luck! And fewer unexpected repairs and costs.

Published: 25-06-2014 | Views: 8265

The article describes in great detail with a photo accompaniment the process of repairing a starter on a VAZ 2110 car.

In a new car, breakdowns and malfunctions in the starter are rare. But if the car has served for more than 5 years, then problems may arise. The car owner himself can determine the malfunction of the starter - the car does not start, uncharacteristic sounds when starting the engine, the starter turns off spontaneously.

But many motorists do not pay attention to such signals from the car. And they bring the situation to the point that it is no longer possible to "save" the starter. But an experienced motorist who monitors his car, immediately, by the sound of a working car, will determine the malfunction of this part. So how do you fix a starter? Its repair takes place in several dozen stages described below.

1. First, you need to remove the starter from the car. Now we proceed to disassemble the part.

3.Disconnect the tire from the traction relay contact bolt.

4. Carefully remove the two bolts that hold the traction relay.

5. The traction relay must be removed from the starter.

6. Set aside the starter itself and remove the armature from the traction relay. To do this, lift it up and the anchor loop is released from the lever.

7. Now we return to the starter itself. Remove the tie rod nuts.

8. The next step is to remove the cover from the drive end with the gearbox and the same assembly part.

9. The cover must also be removed from the side of the collector with brushes and brush holders.

10. Then remove the gear from the anchor shaft.

11. Pull the anchor itself out of the starter.

12. The anchor shaft has a washer on the drive side (pay special attention to this).

13. Use a screwdriver or other thin object to remove the anchor shaft support.

14. Then use a small screwdriver to remove the two tie rods from the starter cover. In general, it is not necessary to remove them, if you are in a hurry, you can leave them, however, it is more convenient to remove the drive and gearbox without these pins.

15. Then remove the three gears of the reducer. A breakdown of the starter may consist precisely in the fact that these gears have damaged, broken teeth or needle bearings embedded in the gears. If this defect is present, then replace the parts and the starter will work again.

16. But, if the gears are in order, then continue to disassemble and check the starter for damage further. It is necessary to remove the gearbox with the drive from the cover, after pressing on the gear of the starter drive.

17. The support with the seal must be removed from the lever.

19. Use a hammer to knock the stop ring off the retaining ring using a suitable arbor.

20. Carefully remove the retaining ring first and then the stop ring.

21. Remove the actuator assembly from the drive shaft.

22. Unscrew the lever retaining ring.

23. Then remove the lever with washer and leash.

24. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the spring of the lever.

25. Now you can remove the lever from the liner, and separate the halves of the lever.

26. Remove the meshing gear retaining ring.

27. Next, disassemble the internal gear and remove the drive shaft support from the shaft.

28. Carefully remove the o-ring from the pore. Examine it carefully. A damaged, deformed, hardened ring will adversely affect the operation of the entire starter. It must be replaced.

29. The next step is to remove the insert from the support.

30. From the side of the collector, unscrew the two screws and remove the brush holder.

31. Using a screwdriver, pry off the brush clips.

32. Then remove these clips and their hold-down springs. Again, replace deformed or damaged parts, heavily compressed or bent, broken springs.

33. Pull the brushes out of the brush holder guides.

34. Uninsulated brushes must be removed.

35. Then remove the cardboard insulation strip. If it is damaged, compressed, torn, replace it with a new one.

36. Remove the insulated brushes with connecting rails.

37. Carefully and in detail inspect the anchor. Pay attention to the collector.

1. If the part is dirty, smoked, sand it with glass fine sandpaper. If traces of significant roughness are visible on it or mica protrudes strongly, grind the part on a lathe and then grind the collector with fine sandpaper.

2. If traces of yellow plaque from the bearing are visible on the anchor, then clean it with fine glass sandpaper, because later this can lead to jamming of the shaft gear. If there are dents or nicks on the surfaces of parts such as pins and shaft splines, replace the entire armature. Pay attention to the winding along the ends of the armature. If you see any flaws there, replace the anchor.

3. Check the reliability of soldering the leads of the armature winding to the collector plates.

38. Using a test lamp supplied with an alternating current of 220 V, check the condition of the armature winding. Connect the lamp voltage to the collector plate and the armature core. If everything is in order, the lamp should not be lit.If, nevertheless, it burns, then the anchor winding has closed. In this case, simply replace the starter armature with a new one.

39. While holding the overrunning clutch, turn the starter gear in both directions: clockwise the gear should move absolutely freely, and should not rotate counterclockwise at all. If something is broken, replace the drive.

40. Then put the starter drive onto the drive shaft. If everything is in order, then it should move freely, without jamming or stopping, along the splines of the shaft.

41. If you see that the drive parts are badly worn, deformed, damaged, replace the drive. If you find nicks on the winding end of the gear teeth, grind them with a fine-grained emery wheel. Choose a circle with a small diameter.

42. Inspect the bushings in which the shafts rotate. They are installed in the starter cover on the drive side, on the manifold side, the armature and drive shaft support. If bushings are deformed or scored, replace covers or supports with broken bushings. Cracked covers and supports should also be replaced.

43. Carefully inspect the starter itself, and if there are traces of anchor rubbing on it, replace the cover and intermediate support with a new one.

44. Worn brushes up to the size between the working surface and the terminal less than 3.5 mm, replace.

45. The brushes must move freely towards the brush holder. And the brush holder should not have cracks, chips, flaws. Check if this is so. If everything is in order, then proceed to the next stage of the repair. If there are faults, replace the parts.

46. Begin inspection of the drive shaft. Its elements should not show signs of damage, severe wear and deformation. If there is plaque, remove it with fine glass sandpaper. Work carefully so as not to damage parts.

47. Using an ohmmeter, check if the contact plate closes the traction relay contact bolts. If they do not close, replace the parts or simply repair the relay.

48. To repair the relay:

1. Remove the two screws.
2. Unsolder the relay coils and terminals.
3. Then remove the cover and sand the pins and bolt heads with a sandpaper. The relay should be assembled in the reverse order.

49. Now proceed with the assembly of the starter. Before starting, lubricate the gear teeth with engine oil. Assemble the starter in reverse order.

50. Install the brush holder into the starter separately from the cover on the collector side. To assemble and install this part, use a bushing with a diameter (mark 1) equal to the diameter of the manifold (approximately 30 millimeters).

51. Install the assembled brush holder into the starter housing until it stops, then remove the bushing and install the cover on the starter from the collector side. The renovation is completed.

Video (click to play).

And your starter for a VAZ car is as good as new again!

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DIY MTZ starter repair

43. If there is yellow plaque from the bearing on the armature shaft, remove it with a fine sandpaper, otherwise it will cause the pinion to jam on the shaft. If there are scuffs and nicks on the surfaces of the journals and shaft splines, replace the armature.

44. Check the reliability of soldering the leads of the armature winding to the collector plates. Inspect the winding at the ends of the armature: the diameter of the winding should be less than the iron package of the armature. If the diameter is larger, replace the anchor

46. While holding the overrunning clutch, try to turn the starter gear in both directions: it should rotate freely only clockwise. If the gear turns in both directions, replace the drive.

47. Slide the starter drive onto the armature shaft. It should move freely, without jamming along the splines of the shaft.

48. If the drive parts are badly worn or damaged, replace the drive. If nicks are found on the lead-in part of the gear teeth, grind them with a fine-grained small-diameter emery wheel.

50. Inspect the bushing pressed into the clutch housing. If the bushing is worn out or there are scuffs or pits on it, replace the bushing.

52. Check the movement of the brushes in the holders. The brushes should move easily without jamming. Check that the brush holders are securely fastened: they must be firmly attached.

53. Holders of insulated brushes must not be connected to ground. Check this with a test lamp.

54. Check the force of the springs pressing the brushes using a dynamometer. To do this, insert the armature into the cover from the drive side, install the housing and the brush holder

55. Insert the brushes into the brush holders. At the moment of separation of the spring from the brush, the force should be in the range of 9.0-11.0 N (0.9-1.1 kgf).

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43. If there is yellow plaque from the bearing on the armature shaft, remove it with a fine sandpaper, otherwise it will cause the pinion to jam on the shaft. If there are scuffs and nicks on the surfaces of the journals and shaft splines, replace the armature.

44. Check the reliability of soldering the leads of the armature winding to the collector plates. Inspect the winding at the ends of the armature: the diameter of the winding should be less than the iron package of the armature. If the diameter is larger, replace the anchor

46. ​​While holding the overrunning clutch, try to turn the starter gear in both directions: it should rotate freely only clockwise. If the gear turns in both directions, replace the drive.

47. Slide the starter drive onto the armature shaft. It should move freely, without jamming along the splines of the shaft.

48. If the drive parts are badly worn or damaged, replace the drive. If nicks are found on the lead-in part of the gear teeth, grind them with a fine-grained small-diameter emery wheel.

50. Inspect the bushing pressed into the clutch housing. If the bushing is worn out or there are scuffs or pits on it, replace the bushing.

52. Check the movement of the brushes in the holders. The brushes should move easily without jamming. Check that the brush holders are securely fastened: they must be firmly attached.

53. Holders of insulated brushes must not be connected to ground. Check this with a test lamp.

54. Check the force of the springs pressing the brushes using a dynamometer. To do this, insert the armature into the cover from the drive side, install the housing and the brush holder

55. Insert the brushes into the brush holders. At the moment of separation of the spring from the brush, the force should be in the range of 9.0-11.0 N (0.9-1.1 kgf).

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46. While holding the overrunning clutch, try to turn the starter gear in both directions: it should rotate freely only clockwise. If the gear turns in both directions, replace the drive.