DIY nissan almera classic starter repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a starter nissan almera classic from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Before disassembling the starter, verify that it is not working properly by the following simple checks.

1.Use a screwdriver to check that the drive coupling can move easily along the shaft.

2. Rotate the drive gear. It should turn easily relative to the coupling hub in the direction of rotation of the armature and should not turn in the opposite direction.

3. Connect the wires for "lighting" the "minus" terminal of the battery removed from the car with the starter housing. Connect the second wire with one end to the "plus" terminal of the storage battery, and the other - to the output of the control wire of the traction relay. If the traction relay is working properly, a click will be heard and the drive clutch will slide out. Otherwise, the TRACTION relay must be replaced.

4. Disconnect the wire from the traction relay control terminal and connect to the lower contact bolt of the traction relay. The starter armature should start rotating at a frequency of more than 6000 min'1. Otherwise, repair the starter.
You will need: screwdrivers with a flat cross-shaped blade, a key "13".

1. Remove the screw that secures the wire chute holder.

2.. and remove the holder from the starter.

3. Unscrew the nut of the lower contact bolt of the traction relay.

4. . and disconnect the tire from the bolt

5. Remove the two bolts securing the pull rod to the starter cover from the drive end.

6.. and remove the traction relay.

7. Remove the two tie bolts

eight. . and remove the rear cover with the brush holder from the starter.

9. Remove the two screws securing the holder brush to the rear cover.

10. . and remove the brush holder from the back cover. To facilitate subsequent assembly, it is recommended, when removing the brush holder, to immediately fix the brushes on it by sliding the brush holder onto a head of a suitable diameter from the set of tools.

Video (click to play).

11. Disconnect the stator and drive end cover.

12. Remove the armature from the stator

13. Remove the gears from the drive shaft

14. Remove the rubber damper

15. . and cover plate for support of the starter drive lever

16. Remove the drive shaft together with the lever from the cover.

17.. and remove the lever from the drive clutch.

18. To replace the drive coupling, slide the stop ring over the drive shaft as shown in the photo.

19. Pry the retaining ring with a screwdriver.

21. Then remove the stop ring.

22. Remove the coupling from the drive shaft.

23. If replacement is required, remove the ring gear of the planetary reduction gear from the drive shaft.
24. Inspect the brush holder. Check the height of the brushes in the brush holder. If the height is 7 mm or less, replace the brush holder with a new one. Check with an ohmmeter the insulated holders for a short circuit to the case. Resistance must go to infinity.

25. Slots and journals of the armature shaft should not be damaged (nicks and scuffs). The armature manifold must be free of burn marks. Remove minor burns with a cloth soaked in gasoline and fine-grained sandpaper. Insulating mica between the lamellas must be deepened by at least 0.2 mm. If the collector is very rough or mica is protruding between its lamellas, grind the collector on a lathe and then grind it with fine-grained sandpaper.

26. Use an ohmmeter to check the armature winding for a short to ground. Resistance must go to infinity.
27. Check the ease of movement of the starter traction relay armature, and whether the contact bolts are closed by the contact plate.
28. Check the drive clutch.The gear teeth of the drive clutch must not be significantly worn out. The gear must be able to easily turn relative to the coupling hub in the direction of rotation of the armature and must not turn in the opposite direction. If the gear teeth are worn out, damaged or the gear is turned * in both directions, replace the clutch.
29. There should be no cracks or signs of significant wear on the forks grooves on the starter drive lever.
30. Assemble the starter in the reverse order to disassembly, taking into account the following features:
- lubricate the spline surface of the drive shaft with silicon grease;

NOTE: The coupling does not need lubrication during operation. However, it is necessary to clean it from dirt. Do not use agents to clean the drive that can flush out the grease in the drive coupling.

- lubricate the bearings (bushings) in the starter covers with engine oil;
- use pliers to install the stop ring.

The resource of the starter is two times less than that of the engine, and is equal in duration to 5-6 years. Malfunctions of this unit are especially often troubling motorists in cold weather. If, after turning the key in the ignition lock under the hood, an extraneous grinding or clicking is heard, then something is wrong with the starter. If all the preventive work on the electrical equipment has been carried out, then the only way out is to remove the starter. How to remove a starter on a Nissan Almera yourself?

In order for the replacement of the starter for Nissan Almera, Almera Classic, N15 and N16 to be successful, you need to be sure that all other electrical components are in good working order.

The starter is located under the hood of the car in the lower part of the engine on the right side (in the direction of the car's movement). To remove it, you must:

Remove the negative cable from the battery.
Disconnect the positive starter connector (located next to the starter).
Remove the top bolt on the starter mounts under the thermostat.
Remove the bottom bolt on the starter mountings.
Unscrew the bolt connecting the ground.

When removing, it is necessary not to rush and be careful not to damage the elements located near the starter. Through the top (from the side of the hood), removing the starter on the Nissan Almera H16 is almost impossible. It is necessary to remove the starter from the bottom. To use the observation hole or lift.

Simple rules for extending the life of a starter

Operate the car with a well-charged battery.
Timely service the battery terminals.
Maintain the contact group of the ignition lock in good condition.
Avoid defects in the power supply circuit.

Timely starter prevention is relevant not only for used cars, but also for cars with low mileage, so it should be carried out regularly.

If the material was interesting or useful to you, post it on your page on the social network:

I went to this for a long time, extraneous noise in the starter at start was present almost from the first days of my owning this car. Let me explain: when the engine was started, after the starter was triggered, a nasty rattle appeared, within literally a second, which indicated that the bendix did not return to its place. And so let's take a look at how to remove and clean the starter on the Nissan Almera.

After 1.5 years, I finally got tired of it, and I finally decided to take it off and clean it, although it was somehow scary.
I must say right away that I did everything in the pit, so there were no particular problems with the removal.

So let's get started — REMOVING THE STARTER:

The starter is mounted on two bolts (top and bottom). We unscrew the upper one with the head on "14" (I think that this is the very gemorny part of the removal, because it is located so that when unscrewing you will constantly be in the way of something, then there is little space, then the wires are laid).

Then we climb under the car and from there we observe the picture presented in "Photo 2" (I don't have a crankcase protection, I suspect that with protection the view will be much worse). We unscrew and disconnect everything that is indicated by the arrows in the photo (the negative terminal on the starter is still most likely at "12"), and moving the back of the starter UP, remove it

Let's get down to the second part — DISASSEMBLY OF THE STARTER:

Let's start by unscrewing the two long studs that connect the parts of the starter

Only by them (namely by the fact that behind them their holes fell) it was already possible to understand that something terrible was going on inside the starter ...

We disconnect the parts of the starter (the back and the middle (with the HITACHI inscription) are not fastened in any way, so we just pull the middle part and that's it)

In order to assess the condition of the brushes, unscrew here:

After that, we disconnect the retractor relay:

And we get the mechanical part of the starter:

For further disassembly and cleaning, remove the retaining ring:

Here's what we should end up with:

Then we clean everything, wipe it off ...

We lubricate the points of rotation of the starter axis (I have not used lubricant anywhere else) and assemble in the reverse order.

Starter Nissan Almera N15 is a necessary element of the engine starting system. Any problems with this device will lead to engine malfunctions and the inability to start the car. Consider how to remove the starter Nissan Almera H15 yourself and in what cases it needs to be done.

In simpler terms, a starter can be called an electric motor, the gear of which drives the crankshaft at the moment the ignition is started. The part is small, but the starter consists of many parts. The most significant of these are the electric motor, the solenoid relay, the bendix, the brushes and the armature.

The following signs will indicate problems with one or another part of the starter Nissan Almera N15:

Delay in starting systems after turning the key - it is necessary to check the solenoid relay.
In the summer, the crankshaft starts to rotate noticeably tightly - check the bearings and brushes.
The starter motor turns, but the engine does not start.
The starter motor does not rotate after turning the key.
The starter motor continues to run after the engine is started.

Starter Almera H15 1.6 l is attached with two bolts located at the top and bottom. In the process of work, you will have to remove the mount under the hood, as well as under the bottom of the car. Disconnect the battery before removing the starter. After that, you can proceed to dismantle the part.

Disconnect and remove air duct.
Unscrew the upper starter mounting bolt with the head 14.

If a crankcase guard is installed on the machine, it will need to be removed.
Climb under the car and unscrew the bendix mass bolt.

Disconnect positive starter connector.
Remove the intake manifold support bracket.

Unscrew the bottom bolt with a 13 mm head.
Lift up slightly and remove starter.
Installation is performed in reverse order.

Using a 18 key, unscrew the two long studs holding the starter parts together.
Pull one side of the starter off the other.

Image - DIY nissan almera classic starter repair

Remove the brushes and anchor by unscrewing their fasteners.
Remove the solenoid relay.

Remove the gears and the mechanical part of the device.
Remove the retaining ring from the part by pulling it up.

The disassembled starter must be cleaned of dirt, the pivot points on the axle must be lubricated. Further, if the parts of the starter are not damaged, you can assemble everything in the reverse order. If any component is damaged, it must be replaced.

We examined how to remove the starter Nissan Almera H15 on our own, without contacting the service. You can remove and replace the starter yourself, but the diagnostics and establishment of the cause of the breakdown should be entrusted to professionals.

Replacement of the starter is carried out only in case of serious damage to the device and the impossibility of repairing it. In most cases, it is enough to repair or replace one of the components of the car starter, and it will start working again in the same mode.

We remove the starter to check it, repair or replace it, as well as when dismantling the engine and gearbox. We carry out the work on a viewing ditch or overpass.
Disconnect the terminal of the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.
Remove the protection of the power unit (see "Removing the protection of the power unit").
From the bottom of the car.

... use the “10” head to unscrew the nut (the nut is fixed on the tip of the wire).

... and remove the tip of the wire (with a nut) from the contact bolt of the traction relay.

Turn off the nut with the high head "8" (the nut is fixed on the tip of the wire).

... and remove the tip of the wire (with a nut) from the control output of the traction relay.

Read also: Meat grinder DIY repair

On a car with a manual transmission, engage first gear.
In the engine compartment, set aside the resonator of the air path (see "Replacing a replaceable air filter element").

With the head "13" with the extension, we unscrew the bolt 1 of the starter fastening, and with the head without the extension - two bolts 2.

To assess the health of the starter drive.

... use a screwdriver to turn the drive gear.

The gear should turn in one direction with the drive shaft, and in the other direction on the drive shaft. Otherwise, the drive must be replaced.

Use a screwdriver to move the drive gear along the shaft.

The gear should move easily along the shaft without jamming. If the gear sticks to the shaft, the drive must be replaced.
To check the starter, we connect the “positive” terminal of the battery with the upper contact bolt of the traction relay, and the “negative” terminal with the starter housing, by wires for “lighting” the battery.

With a screwdriver, we bridge the upper contact bolt and the control output of the traction relay.

Care must be taken when carrying out this operation, as spark formation is possible in the area of the terminal closure. Do not touch the "ground" with a screwdriver at the moment of closing the terminals.

At the same time, the drive gear should move out and the starter motor will turn on. Otherwise, we check the electric motor and the starter traction relay.

To check the electric motor, we connect the wires of the "positive" terminal of the battery with the lower contact bolt of the traction relay, and the "minus" terminal - with the starter housing.

In this case, the shaft of the electric motor must rotate. Otherwise, the motor is defective.
To check the traction relay, we connect with wires.

... The "positive" terminal of the storage battery with the control terminal of the traction relay (shown by the arrow), and the "minus" terminal - with the starter housing.

In this case, the drive gear should move out. If this does not happen, the traction relay is faulty.
Install the starter in reverse order.

In this article, we will look at the detailed process of disassembling and repairing a starter with our own hands.

First, a little theory. The starter motor is a four-pole, four-brush DC electric motor, the drive of which is connected to the flywheel ring gear. The starter is switched on by an electromagnetic traction relay. It is attached to the clutch housing and is protected from the heated exhaust pipe by a special shield.

This manual is essentially universal and will fit most Japanese cars.

1) Step one: removing the starter

First you need to remove the heat shield. Using the wrench, unscrew the bolt of the lower flap fastening, remove the hose from the air intake and unscrew the two nuts of the upper flap fastening. We remove the shield. Then we remove the starter itself. To do this, unscrew the two bolts of the upper fastening of the starter to the crankcase, then the lower bolt. We move the starter forward a little and disconnect the block from the traction relay (for convenience, before that, you can remove the coolant hose). We unscrew the nut that secures the wires from the traction relay to the battery, and remove the starter with an upward movement.

2) Step two: finding out the causes of the breakdown and eliminating them

1. Checking and replacing the relay We supply operating voltage to the removed starter.To do this, we give + 12V to the relay output, and we supply minus to the case, while the ohmmeter is connected to the contact bolts. If the relay is working properly, the freewheel will slide out into the window located on the front cover, and the bolts will close (watch the ohmmeter reading). If this does not happen, the relay must be replaced. We unscrew the three screws with a screwdriver and remove the relay. Next, we remove the rod with the spring from the relay housing and install the new relay in the reverse order.

2. Checking and replacing brushes Remove the cover from the starter by unscrewing two screws with a screwdriver. To remove the brushes, you need to disconnect the screw that secures the contact wires and squeeze the spring, after which we remove the brush. The height of the brush should be at least 12 mm - if the brushes are worn out, they should be replaced.

3. Checking the starter windings We connect the ohmmeter to the winding terminals (in turn) and check for a short circuit between the turns and on the case.

4. Checking the collector and windings Remove the retaining ring. Remove the washer from the axle. We unscrew the two tie bolts with a wrench. Disconnect the starter housing and remove the tie bolt insulation tubes from it. We check the external condition of the windings and the collector. The windings must be free of charring and breakdown marks. Minor marks on the collector are permissible, while it should be cleaned off its plates with fine sandpaper, but it is better to replace it with a new one.

5. Checking the armature winding Using an ohmmeter, we look for a short circuit on the armature windings and if we find it, we replace it.

6. Checking the gear and overrunning clutch Remove the washer from the anchor axis, unpin the lever axis and knock it out with a bit, remove the anchor together with the drive. Remove the clutch drive lever. Trying to rotate the gear - it should easily rotate in one direction and lock in the other. It should not be chipped or chipped. If a clutch or gear is faulty, they must be replaced together. To do this, you need to remove the retaining ring and remove the clutch together with the gear and replace it with new ones.

7. Assembling the starter Before assembling the starter, remove all dust from the housing and the brush holder, and cover all plastic surfaces with a special grease (for example, Litol). Bearings, rotor bushings, coupling hub, armature shaft splines should be lubricated with engine oil. After that, we assemble the starter in the reverse order of disassembly.

Ready. We disassembled, repaired and assembled the starter with our own efforts at home!

1 - front cover;
2 - lever;
3 - rotor;
4 - traction relay; 5 - stator with coils;
6 - brush holder with brushes;
7 - back cover;
8 - freewheel clutch.

Hello! Help to solve the problem, can anyone come across? The situation is as follows: car Almera2 (N16), after parking I turn on the ignition, the panel lights up, the fuel pump sensor is triggered, the characteristic buzzing - everything is as usual, but the starter does not turn, it is generally silent. At what it can start the second time, and maybe after half an hour. It is characteristic that this does not happen every time, and by and large, either in wet weather or after the operation of the air conditioner, but also not a fact. The problem infuriates with its irregularity, because of this it is impossible to contact the service, they say we need a problem to solve it, and when it occurs next time it is not clear. Then everything works for 1-2 months, then once in one morning you start up for 30 minutes.

to nixs: Weight per engine, I think we should start with this. Possibly poor contact, because of this, the starter drives. If not mass, then remove and watch the starter itself, possibly brushes. Try throwing extra mass from the battery “-” onto the engine through a good wire, see what changes. Here is an example from our forum LINK HERE

to RomAlm: thanks, but it looks like something else. I always lubricate the contacts on the battery for MOT, and the starter was also dismantled there, everything was ok.

it was completely and similarly, NATS turned out to be buggy, and without an indication on its service lamp.Everything was decided by the fact that I had to beat off contacts in the contact group of the steering column.

On a locked steering wheel, beat the stops by rotating the steering wheel to the extreme positions on the locked one with a little effort, thereby the contacts in the contact group are beaten off, and if there are some small oxides, they will crumble. As a possible reason, it never happened again after that. although it manifested itself at a very frequent frequency, something like this

to Dimon-811:

It also happened, NATS was buggy (I did not see the key on the starter, but the ignition turned on). After removing the battery terminal, the brains fell into place.

to nixs: Hello. There is either NATS, or the problem is in the contact group of the ignition switch.

Thank you very much for your advice, but it WILL START)) for now.

at least know where to look and what to do if something happens.

nixs: and what to do if something happens. #

Check the chain and starter first. One wire from the internal combustion engine to minus the battery, and from + battery. on the retractor contact.

The same crap happened today. I turn the key - silence, but the lamps are on and the gasoline pump purred. After a smoke break and several attempts, also silent, she suddenly began to twist. But it doesn't turn on. He just actively turns. Again a smoke break for 5 minutes, again an attempt - a miracle, started up. Car in 2004, mileage 100t.

bump the stops on the locked steering wheel, it most of all looks like a contact group really

Thank you for your help, I'll go try it, but it confuses me that before starting up, he twisted it for a long time. I feel the starter will also have to watch.

to abvgd: It seems that only with me, if it twists, then it grasps right away

Or does it not twist at all? Likewise, it may be the case in the castle.

there was such a problem the other day, opened the hood in the fuse box, moved the relyushki, started up.

I am sitting with a similar problem.

I want to add to the symptoms in the first post that the IMMO light bulb goes out after turning the key to the ON position (i.e. the key is visible), but there is no voltage on the retractor.

Today I called the offs, they said to start with the signaling. Check if there is a blockage on the starter and shit: under the steering block I found a white-orange wire, which in the manual for the whitefish lies between the whitefish block and the starter blocking relay.

In the manual I found a description of "passive engine blocking"

“Passive engine blocking

You can program the system so that every time 60 seconds after the ignition is turned off, only the engine blocking circuits are turned on (similar to an immobilizer). If this function (function no. 7) is enabled:
Switch off the ignition.
60 seconds after the ignition is turned off, the system will turn on the car engine blocking circuit and the system LED will flash 2 times slower than in the normal armed mode
The system will not be triggered by opening doors, hood or trunk, or by sensors connected to the system ”

In the evening or in the morning I will watch how the alarm LED behaves. If it blinks, then I'll go change the alarm

How to remove a starter motor on a Nissan Cefiro. Disassembly, Repair or Restoration
Replacing the starter brushes. Replacing the retractor starter. Replacing the starter bendix
Replacing the entire sterter

To the article on cleaning injectors on VQ engines, read:

About starters: There are different starters, just geared (they may differ in the number of teeth bendixes) and starters with a planetary mechanism (considered the most reliable and strong), they were installed on cars with the best equipment. So before buying a bendix, you need to disassemble your own and count the number of teeth in it. all the brushes are the same, the motors are the same.

The starter on the V-shaped Nissan Cefiro engines is located on the left side of the car, under the air duct. So you need to remove almost the entire duct. Since you are removing it, you can also clean it, how to clean the throttle valve is described in the article indicated at the beginning.

I had a problem with the starter that when starting up, there was an unpleasant rattling sound. I honestly sinned on Bendix, but I analyzed everything.Also, in severe frost, the retractor sometimes did not work immediately. I also changed the brushes for one thing.

Ztam first: Analysis of the starter. Removal and disassembly of the motor. We unscrew the bolts from the back cover of the motor, this will allow it to be disconnected from the rest of the starter, while the body and anchor are all separate and everything is inspected.

The starter motor resource is much lower than that of other engine components. The Nissan Almera N16 starter is no exception. However, before proceeding with the replacement and looking for an original spare part or its equivalent in stores, you should accurately determine the diagnosis. After all, the reason for the lack of a normal start may be oxidized terminals or a faulty starter relay.

In this device itself, the most likely cause of breakdowns is wear of the brushes or a malfunction of the solenoid relay. Therefore, it does not always make sense to change the whole part, since it is quite possible to repair the starter on your own by replacing the faulty components.

Let's now figure out how to remove a starter on a Nissan Almera H16 car. The part is located in an inconvenient place and assumes removal from the bottom of the car, therefore, a viewing hole or lift will be required. From the tool, you will need keys with heads for 12 and 14 (possibly also for 13).

Before removing the device, first of all, be sure to disconnect the battery terminals. One of the bolts, which is easier to remove from the top side, is located under the thermostat. It is more convenient to unscrew the second bolt and the positive terminal from the retractor relay while standing in the inspection pit. Near the bottom bolt is the control wire terminal. It also needs to be disabled.

The starter for the Nissan Almera H16 is difficult to remove. Find a comfortable position when pulling out.

With experience, the starter Nissan Almera Classic can be removed without a pit or lift.

Having a dismantled part on hand, it will not be superfluous to carry out its complete cleaning and troubleshooting. The bulkhead consists in completely disassembling the starter and inspecting, and, if necessary, replacing faulty or worn parts. The brushes most often need to be replaced. If at least one brush has chips, cracks or the height of the protruding part is less than 7 mm, then 4 pieces must be replaced at once. It is much more practical and not much more expensive to replace the entire brush assembly.

Simultaneously with the brushes, the collector lamellae wear out. If the surface of the collector is flat, but contaminated with wear products, then it can be wiped with a rag soaked in gasoline, and then cleaned with sandpaper with the finest grain. After this procedure, it is imperative to purge the manifold with compressed air. Particles of metal that have closed adjacent terminals will certainly cause a powerful arc to appear at the moment of switching on, which will require a complete replacement of the starter, and also fraught with discharge of the battery.

In case of severe wear, the manifold requires a groove on a lathe.

In no case should you remove irregularities with coarse-grained emery paper, since the incomplete adherence of the brushes on the furrows after processing will cause strong sparking and rapid wear of both the brushes and the collector.

The radial play of the starter armature indicates that the replacement of worn bushings is required. Replaced bushings are lubricated with engine oil. The bendix should move freely along the shaft. And the shaft itself also needs to be cleaned with gasoline, and then lubricated with a thin layer of grease.

In second place, after the wear of the brushes and the collector, the contacts of the solenoid relay burn out. The operating current of the starter, which is hundreds of amperes, flows through the contacts. Oxidation of the contacts leads to the fact that the transition resistance increases, at which heat begins to be released in large quantities. At the moment the contacts open, an electric arc ignites between them.All this leads to the fact that the contact surface becomes uneven and with a large transition resistance. The retractor relay is non-separable, so it needs to be replaced.

The gears of the planetary gearbox must not show signs of severe wear or chips. After flushing, the gearbox parts are lubricated with a thick grease, for example, Litol. The inner surface of the stator is blown through with compressed air.

The armature conductors should not have insulation faults, breaks and short circuits. With special care, you need to inspect the joints of the windings with the collector lamellas.

Sometimes there is no certainty that the starter can be restored to a condition that guarantees its correct operation. In this case, it will be better and calmer to replace it entirely. As numerous reviews say, it makes little sense to buy exactly the original version installed on the plant's conveyor. Spare parts from third-party manufacturers are usually somewhat cheaper, but they are in no way inferior in quality to original ones.

Almera is a very common car, its engine is installed in many cars of a similar class, so it is not difficult to find a replacement starter. You should not only take frankly cheap components from unknown manufacturers for several reasons:

Too low cost indicates poor quality. A starter is a high-power electric motor, through which large currents flow during start-up (within the range of 200-300 A). Malfunctions of this device can easily cause a fire in the engine compartment or at least damage the battery.
Cheap parts are usually bought on the market and it is most likely that you will not be able to replace faulty parts here.

We got acquainted with the main types of breakdowns of this important car part. Choose quality spare parts, and if you have no experience in replacing them, contact the specialists.

Nissan Almera Classic. STARTER REPAIR - PART 2

17.. and remove the lever from the drive clutch.

18. To replace the drive coupling, slide the stop ring over the drive shaft as shown in the photo.

19. Pry the retaining ring with a screwdriver.

21. Then remove the stop ring.

22. Remove the coupling from the drive shaft.